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(wind howling)
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(epic upbeat music)
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- Our journey begins
at the city of La Rochelle,
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once an important medieval port.
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From there we'll cross the bay,
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to the largest of the French islands
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off the Atlantic Coast, Ile d'Oleron.
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Our route south takes
us over the vast swaths
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of the renowned oyster farms
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of the Charente-Maritime Region on the way
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to the resort town of Royan.
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We'll make our way along
the Gironde estuary,
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leading us to some of the
most prestigious vineyards
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in France, including Chateau Margaux.
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Which gave rise to the
most expensive bottle
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of wine ever broken.
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At the wine industry capitol of Bordeaux,
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we head back towards the coast.
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Our journey concludes at
The Great Dune of Pyla.
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A colossal hill of sand working
its way relentlessly inland,
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with no sign of slowing.
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(calm music)
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Over the centuries, the
port town of La Rochelle
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has come to be known as
"the city of rebels."
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It refers to it's long
standing Protestant tradition,
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in the face of Catholic
dominance in France.
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During Nazi occupation in World War II,
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the port was used to garrison
a massive fleet of U-boats.
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It was so heavily fortified,
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that while allied forces
swept across the rest
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of the country,
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these pens held out until
the Germans surrender
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in May of 1945.
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Although La Rochelle isn't
situated at a river mouth,
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it's western position enabled it to thrive
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as a trading partner with the New World.
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And it retains its
strong links with the sea
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through a significant
boat building industry
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and the leisure marina,
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the largest in all of Europe.
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(gentle music)
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During the Reformation,
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the city became a
stronghold of Protestantism,
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and was in constant conflict
with the French Catholics.
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The struggle culminated in 1552
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when two Calvinists,
denounced as heretics,
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were burned at the stake as an example.
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This spire the Tour de la Lanterne,
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remains a symbol of that conflict.
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Because in 1568 the city's
Protestant mayor worked
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the populous up into an
anti-Catholic frenzy.
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Resulting in 13 priests
being captured and thrown
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from the ramparts.
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The bodies were washed out to sea,
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never to be seen again.
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(gentle music)
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Guarding the entrance to the old port,
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are the distinctive towers.
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They symbolize the city's
emergence as a key harbor town
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at the turn of the 13th Century.
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When Alexander Auffredi
famously sent seven
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of his trading ships off to Africa.
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Promising untold riches for the noblemen,
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he eagerly awaited their return,
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but with no sign of the vessels,
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Auffredi was finally resigned
to a life of poverty.
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His misery was to continue
for seven long years
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until one day, and out of the blue,
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the ships returned, making
Auffredi a very rich man.
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But such turn of events
weren't lost on the ship owner,
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who went on the dedicate
the rest of his life
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to helping the needy.
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It also cemented the port
as a major center of trade,
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which continues to this day.
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More recently, tourism has
also emerged as a key industry.
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With holiday apartments
springing up around the old town.
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Well served by motorways,
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La Rochelle is now one of
the most visited cities
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on the Atlantic Coast.
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Holiday makers are drawn to the liveliness
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of the beautifully preserved city.
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As well as the plentiful
seafood restaurants.
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And not least of the leisure activities,
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is sailing along the sheltered harbor
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of Pertuis d'Antioche.
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But for some, the town
is just a way point,
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to an island destination
just over the harbor.
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(spunky island music)
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Every year, thousands
of well heeled Parisians
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and British cross this
three kilometer bridge
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for their holiday choice at Ile de Re.
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With chic hotels, restaurants, and bars,
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and prices to match,
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it's most definitely the place to be seen.
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But surprisingly, there's
very little opulence on show,
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bicycles and fishing boat trips
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have replaced the glitz of
Ferrari's and super yachts.
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(light bouncy music)
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Here, it's the authentic
charm of whitewashed villages,
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unspoiled beaches, and natural reserves
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that give the island its appeal.
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And, as we'll find, along
this Atlantic coastline,
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evidence of centuries of fighting,
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between French and English
forces, still remain.
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This example, is Fort del La Pree.
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Constructed soon after the
French regained control
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of the region in the 17th century.
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(gentle revealing music)
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We rejoin the mainland to follow
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the Charente coastline south.
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Here we pass rows of fishing
huts perched high on stilts.
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Nets suspended on poles are cast out,
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then hauled in with a catch.
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Up until the 19th century,
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this was the traditional
method for fishing
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along the these shores.
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But a devastating storm in 1999,
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destroyed almost all of them.
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Over time, many were
rebuilt, though today,
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they're mostly used for leisure.
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Much of what's caught,
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ends up on the plates of delighted diners
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at the nearby town of Fouras.
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Its standing as one of the
earliest French seaside resorts
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from the 1900s,
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is preceded by centuries
of military activity.
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The imposing fortress
that hugs the shoreline,
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dates back to the 17th century,
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built to defend against a
potential attack by the English.
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And within sight of the
mainland is Ile d'Aix,
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situated on the mouth
of the Charente River.
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It's served as a spiritual
center for traveling monks
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in medieval times.
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But once Napoleon visited
the island in 1808,
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he realized its strategic potential
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and ordered the construction
of fortifications.
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Seven years later, the
emperor retreated here
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after his defeat at Waterloo.
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And began plans to slip past
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the British Royal Navy
to safety, in America.
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Realizing the plan was futile,
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he penned his final surrender
from his house here in 1815.
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Beside Ile d'Aix, protecting the entrance
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to the river Charente is Fort Boyard.
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Louis XIV's advisor cautioned
against building it,
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saying "it would be easier to seize
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"the moon with your teeth,
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"than to attempt such an undertaking,"
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in such a place.
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Nevertheless, construction took place,
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and it now watches over
neighboring Ile d'Oleron.
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The largest French island
off the Atlantic coast
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and mecca for lovers of seafood.
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Because it's here in these marshy beds
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that the renowned Marennes-Oleron
oyster is produced
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and exported worldwide.
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Elsewhere, orange, fig, and
eucalyptus forests abound.
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And the scents have given rise
to the name "perfumed isle."
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Oleron also has and
important military past
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as seen in this 17th century citadel.
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Constructed to protect the
mouth of the Charente River.
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But the island had
already earned it's place
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in maritime history by the 12th century,
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as it was a sight of the
judgements of Oleron,
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the first official laws of
admiralty in Northwestern Europe.
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(slow calm music)
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The wild, west coast of the
island makes traditional fishing
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and oyster farming quite challenging.
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So most fisherman here use an ecluse,
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a special device which ensnares
the catch at high tide,
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leaving it stranded on the
shore as the ocean recedes.
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Between the southern coast of Oleron
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and the French mainland,
sits Fort Louvois,
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also built during the reign of Louis XIV.
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(slow calm music)
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Modeled on castles of the middle ages,
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with both a drawbridge and mote,
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it's horseshoe shape was
perfect for controlling traffic
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through the river mouth and
into the interior of France.
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These days, all five stories
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and the retro fitted lighthouse
are open to visitors.
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If you can make across the causeway before
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the high tide catches up with you.
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And beware, because in 2010
a massive storm, Xynthia,
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was so strong it caused
severe damage to the fort,
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and swept the entire drawbridge away.
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The Seudre River ends in this estuary,
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lined with salt marshes
and brackish waters,
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an ideal habitat for wild oysters.
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Enjoyed by the French
since before Roman times,
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the demand for this delicacy almost wiped
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the species out in the 19th century.
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(calm music)
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Luckily oysterman way would
prevent this catastrophe,
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by developing marsh beds which are flooded
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with nutritious estuary water,
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allowing the shellfish
to flourish in numbers.
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The French tradition of feasting
on oysters at Christmastime
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has kept beds like this
thriving up and down the coast.
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While in the rest of Europe,
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this delicacy has now become a rarity.
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Continuing along the coast,
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we come to the fortified town of Brouage.
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The coastal land here provides
more than just oysters
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because this town was
built in the 16th century
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with the sole intent of extracting salt
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from the surrounding marshes
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and selling it to vessels
arriving from Northern Europe.
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In the 17th Century,
the town was fortified
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as a Catholic bastion.
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And now we move on to Royan.
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(gentle music)
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Once a chic seaside resort,
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the city center was completely demolished
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by misjudged allied
bombings in World World II,
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00:13:13,189 --> 00:13:17,456
but now modernist style buildings
sit beside colorful villas
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00:13:17,456 --> 00:13:20,863
in a charming mixture of old and new.
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The city is situated
on the Gironde estuary,
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the largest in all of Europe.
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A source of food and commerce,
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the river mouth has always
been important to French life,
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so important in fact,
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that some historians speculate
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that the outbreak of the French Revolution
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was caused by the waters
here freezing over
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in the horrible winter of
1788 throwing the population
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into mass unrest.
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Working our way into the
heart of the Gironde estuary,
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reveals a landscape central to
French culture and character.
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It's from the marshy soil of
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this 120 kilometer stretch of land,
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that many of the country's
most prized wines originate.
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00:14:14,692 --> 00:14:17,109
(calm music)
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00:14:19,110 --> 00:14:21,740
Stranded out in the estuary farmland,
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is the St. Pierre Abbey.
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00:14:23,970 --> 00:14:27,030
Erected in the 9th Century
long before the vineyards
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here had reached fame and fortune.
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Built to spread the influence
of the city of Bordeaux,
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all that remain are these ruins scattered
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around farm buildings.
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00:14:40,070 --> 00:14:41,560
(gentle bouncy music)
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On the left bank of the estuary,
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is the famous Medoc wine growing region.
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Before the ancient Romans
introduced the vine,
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00:14:50,620 --> 00:14:55,250
this area was primarily salt
marshes and pine forests.
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00:14:55,250 --> 00:14:56,980
But it wasn't until much later,
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that the industry really took off.
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00:14:59,600 --> 00:15:03,350
In the 1500s Henry IX
hired Dutch engineers
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00:15:03,350 --> 00:15:05,250
to drain the marshes in order
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to create perfect viticultural conditions.
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00:15:09,120 --> 00:15:11,720
The unique taste of the red wine here
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is often to the gravel in the soil
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which retains heat and encourages
extensive root systems.
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The ultimate symbol of French
wine culture is the Chateau.
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For the fabulously rich
who buy these vineyards,
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this extends way beyond the wine itself.
257
00:15:31,770 --> 00:15:34,150
What lures such wealth to the region
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00:15:34,150 --> 00:15:39,150
is the Medoc's inclusion
in a historic 1855 document
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which categorized French wines into levels
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of quality and importance.
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And almost all the red wines on the list,
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came from this one region.
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00:15:51,930 --> 00:15:54,550
This is Chateau Lilian Ladouys,
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situated in a subregion
that's known for it's fresher
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00:15:57,774 --> 00:16:02,774
and lighter wines in part,
due to the cold and wet soil.
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00:16:03,929 --> 00:16:08,340
This idea of attributing
tastes to natural conditions,
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is called terroir.
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Often translated as, a sense of place.
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00:16:13,755 --> 00:16:16,441
(light bouncy music)
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and for top wine tasters,
even the most minor changes
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in the soil, climate,
and natural surroundings
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can be detected.
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00:16:25,055 --> 00:16:27,550
(birds chirping)
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00:16:27,550 --> 00:16:30,200
The style of classification, was initiated
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in the middle ages by Benedictine Monks.
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Who would conduct painstaking observations
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on effect of surrounds
on the taste of wine.
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00:16:39,535 --> 00:16:42,429
(calm epic music)
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some legends, even have
the monks going so far
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as to taste the soil itself.
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00:16:48,838 --> 00:16:51,285
It was from their work
that the first terroirs
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were officially passed on.
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00:16:55,490 --> 00:16:58,900
This detailed knowledge,
and almost mysticism,
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has kept wine from this region
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in high demand around the world.
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And encouraged the construction
of such formidable chateaus.
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Moving into the Pauillac terroir,
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00:17:11,970 --> 00:17:14,910
we come to Chateau Latour Vineyard.
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00:17:14,910 --> 00:17:18,000
The holding takes its name
from the tower built here
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during the Hundred Years War.
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00:17:20,240 --> 00:17:23,960
The current tower was
reconstructed in the 1600s,
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00:17:23,960 --> 00:17:27,093
and is now quaintly
used as a pigeon house.
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00:17:30,300 --> 00:17:33,040
A chateau that was famous
among the aristocracy
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and well to do of 18th century France,
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this land is coveted to this day,
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00:17:37,970 --> 00:17:42,144
and the product still highly
regarded amongst experts.
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00:17:42,144 --> 00:17:45,490
(epic rising music )
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Another vineyard named after its tower,
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is La Tour L'Aspic, topped with a statue
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00:17:51,260 --> 00:17:52,704
of the Virgin Mary.
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00:17:52,704 --> 00:17:55,704
(epic rising music)
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00:17:56,770 --> 00:18:00,380
The wine produced here is
known as a second wine,
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00:18:00,380 --> 00:18:03,530
made from grapes not
chosen for the grand vin
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00:18:03,530 --> 00:18:05,640
or the primary label.
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00:18:05,640 --> 00:18:08,482
Although second wine is
considered to be inferior,
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00:18:08,482 --> 00:18:10,430
this vineyard is special,
307
00:18:10,430 --> 00:18:13,862
because what's produced here
performs better in competitions
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00:18:13,862 --> 00:18:17,374
than the supposedly superior grand vin.
309
00:18:17,374 --> 00:18:19,791
(epic music)
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Chateau Margaux was one of four wines
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to achieve premiere
cru, the highest status
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00:18:29,300 --> 00:18:33,080
in the wine classification of 1855.
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00:18:33,080 --> 00:18:35,806
But the wine here had
reached fame decades before,
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00:18:35,806 --> 00:18:38,190
having been praised by the likes
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00:18:38,190 --> 00:18:42,233
of American President
Thomas Jefferson in 1787.
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00:18:44,310 --> 00:18:48,580
Indeed a wine bottled
in that very year, 1787,
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00:18:48,580 --> 00:18:50,104
still holds the record for
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00:18:50,104 --> 00:18:54,480
the most expensive bottle ever broken.
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In short, for $225,000,
generations after it was produced.
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00:19:05,660 --> 00:19:07,414
Crossing the Gironde estuary,
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we pass Ile de Patiras.
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00:19:11,750 --> 00:19:15,090
The island served as a quarantine
point for incoming ships
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00:19:15,090 --> 00:19:16,363
in the 19th century.
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00:19:18,890 --> 00:19:21,570
Once populated by a thriving community,
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00:19:21,570 --> 00:19:25,265
the island is now home to
a few die hard residents.
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00:19:25,265 --> 00:19:27,848
(upbeat music)
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00:19:29,640 --> 00:19:33,210
This crude oil storage
plant and refinery situated
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00:19:33,210 --> 00:19:36,580
at the confluence of the
Gironde and Dordogne rivers,
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is an indication of the
sheer scale of the region's
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wine production,
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00:19:40,750 --> 00:19:43,260
as it's purpose is to meet the fuel needs
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00:19:43,260 --> 00:19:45,083
of the industry in the area.
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00:19:47,470 --> 00:19:49,477
Nearby on the banks of the Dordogne,
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00:19:49,477 --> 00:19:51,313
is the city of Bourg.
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00:19:52,600 --> 00:19:54,440
This medieval town is where some
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00:19:54,440 --> 00:19:57,340
of the top wine experts converge each year
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00:19:57,340 --> 00:20:00,110
for a three sampling fest.
338
00:20:00,110 --> 00:20:02,320
It's aim is to select the best
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00:20:02,320 --> 00:20:05,383
of 800 wines brought in
from around the world.
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00:20:08,080 --> 00:20:10,370
Following the Dordogne River upstream
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brings us to Cubzac,
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a busy crossing point for centuries,
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00:20:14,741 --> 00:20:17,660
sail boats and cable
ferries moved travelers
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00:20:17,660 --> 00:20:20,017
and traders across until Napoleon ordered
345
00:20:20,017 --> 00:20:25,017
the construction of a
suspension bridge in 1812.
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00:20:25,120 --> 00:20:27,598
Since then, three bridges
have been completed,
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00:20:27,598 --> 00:20:30,980
but not without their
fair share of bother.
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00:20:30,980 --> 00:20:33,610
When the Germans
retreated in World War II,
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00:20:33,610 --> 00:20:36,510
they made sure to destroy
as much as they could
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00:20:36,510 --> 00:20:37,423
in their wake.
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00:20:40,620 --> 00:20:42,760
Crossing over to the Garonne River,
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brings us to the island of la Lande.
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Straddling two settlements
on the banks of the river,
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the island is almost fully
submerged during spring tides,
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00:20:52,830 --> 00:20:55,883
causing these expansive azure lagoons.
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00:20:57,460 --> 00:21:00,320
The remains of old
houses can still be seen,
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00:21:00,320 --> 00:21:02,990
but there are no longer
any full time residents,
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00:21:02,990 --> 00:21:05,580
as the tides have prove too challenging
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00:21:05,580 --> 00:21:07,313
for year round occupancy.
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00:21:09,770 --> 00:21:12,360
And westward, along the banks of the river
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00:21:12,360 --> 00:21:15,253
is the region's biggest city, Bordeaux.
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00:21:16,910 --> 00:21:19,790
Known primarily for it's wine industry,
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00:21:19,790 --> 00:21:23,340
which brings in over 14
billion euros a year,
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00:21:23,340 --> 00:21:26,190
the city of 250,000 is also
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00:21:26,190 --> 00:21:28,593
an important cultural heritage site.
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00:21:30,020 --> 00:21:34,480
From 300 B.C. until the
middle ages Celts, Romans,
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Franks, and Muslims laid claim here,
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00:21:37,460 --> 00:21:40,653
each contributing to its unique character.
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00:21:42,224 --> 00:21:46,730
UNESCO recently added the
old center of Bordeaux
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00:21:46,730 --> 00:21:48,253
to its heritage list.
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And 400 years after serious
wine production started,
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00:21:53,389 --> 00:21:56,370
the city is still synonymous with the best
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00:21:56,370 --> 00:21:58,449
the industry has to offer.
374
00:21:58,449 --> 00:22:01,449
(rising epic music)
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We now head west, to the
vast swaths of farmland
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back towards the coast,
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this is the Aquitaine region of France.
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00:22:14,028 --> 00:22:17,843
And we join its shoreline
at the Bay of Arcachon.
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A geological curiosity, fed
by myriad inland waterways,
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00:22:24,440 --> 00:22:27,593
giving it's waters the
bright colors of a lagoon.
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00:22:29,324 --> 00:22:32,770
The town here was founded
as a luxury winter resort
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00:22:32,770 --> 00:22:34,053
in the 19th century.
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00:22:35,200 --> 00:22:38,690
The waters of the bay, renowned
for their healing powers,
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00:22:38,690 --> 00:22:41,473
lured in Spanish royalty
and Russian dukes,
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as well as famous artists and socialites.
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00:22:45,070 --> 00:22:47,774
Still celebrated for its balneotherapy,
387
00:22:47,774 --> 00:22:50,480
or the treatment of
disease through bathing,
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00:22:50,480 --> 00:22:54,300
over 90,000 visitors come to these shores
389
00:22:54,300 --> 00:22:56,004
in the peak season.
390
00:22:56,004 --> 00:22:59,180
(gentle bouncing music)
391
00:22:59,180 --> 00:23:03,130
Protecting Arcachon Bay from
the pounding Atlantic waves,
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00:23:03,130 --> 00:23:06,113
is the 18 kilometer
headland of Cap Ferret.
393
00:23:08,170 --> 00:23:10,650
It's long been the
exclusive summer retreat
394
00:23:10,650 --> 00:23:13,653
of wealthy families
from Bordeaux and Paris.
395
00:23:15,550 --> 00:23:18,130
Yet it remains rather understated,
396
00:23:18,130 --> 00:23:20,770
save for its prominent lighthouse
397
00:23:20,770 --> 00:23:23,930
that's been guiding vessels
into the bay since 1947.
398
00:23:25,807 --> 00:23:27,120
(dramatic music)
399
00:23:27,120 --> 00:23:31,540
And surrounding the Bay, are
the remnants of recent history.
400
00:23:31,540 --> 00:23:33,513
Hitler's Atlantic wall.
401
00:23:34,450 --> 00:23:37,270
Stretching from Scandinavia
to the Spanish border,
402
00:23:37,270 --> 00:23:40,320
pillboxes, command posts, and bunkers,
403
00:23:40,320 --> 00:23:44,640
guarded occupied France
against allied invasions.
404
00:23:44,640 --> 00:23:46,800
Along with the unpredictable seas
405
00:23:46,800 --> 00:23:48,970
and obstacle ridden coastline,
406
00:23:48,970 --> 00:23:51,220
the allies were successfully deterred
407
00:23:51,220 --> 00:23:53,413
from staging their invasion here.
408
00:23:56,490 --> 00:23:57,860
And following the vestiges
409
00:23:57,860 --> 00:24:00,240
of the Atlantic wall down to the coast,
410
00:24:00,240 --> 00:24:02,787
brings us to the last stop on our journey.
411
00:24:02,787 --> 00:24:06,680
This extraordinary
geomorphic oddity that is
412
00:24:07,560 --> 00:24:09,576
The Great Dune of Pyla.
413
00:24:09,576 --> 00:24:12,690
(gentle revealing music)
414
00:24:12,690 --> 00:24:15,310
The mountain of sand three kilometers long
415
00:24:15,310 --> 00:24:17,390
and over a hundred meters high,
416
00:24:17,390 --> 00:24:20,150
is moving relentlessly inland.
417
00:24:20,150 --> 00:24:23,249
Sweeping over houses, strangling forests,
418
00:24:23,249 --> 00:24:25,049
and burying roads.
419
00:24:25,049 --> 00:24:28,049
(gentle epic music)
420
00:24:29,020 --> 00:24:32,360
Over 20 private properties
have been isolated
421
00:24:32,360 --> 00:24:34,163
or destroyed in its path.
422
00:24:35,840 --> 00:24:37,330
In the last hundred years,
423
00:24:37,330 --> 00:24:39,422
it's thought to have doubled in size
424
00:24:39,422 --> 00:24:42,858
and today shows no sign of slowing.
425
00:24:42,858 --> 00:24:45,320
(upbeat smooth music)
426
00:24:45,320 --> 00:24:48,144
Each year it advances
three to four meters,
427
00:24:48,144 --> 00:24:52,423
covering around 8,000
square meters of forest.
428
00:24:53,310 --> 00:24:57,315
Even so, The Great Dune
of Pyla is protected
429
00:24:57,315 --> 00:24:59,993
as a designated natural monument.
430
00:25:01,516 --> 00:25:05,169
During World War II the
dune was used by the Germans
431
00:25:05,169 --> 00:25:08,260
for training new recruits,
432
00:25:08,260 --> 00:25:11,563
but these days are mostly for leisure.
433
00:25:13,200 --> 00:25:15,740
People arrive in droves to make their way
434
00:25:15,740 --> 00:25:19,760
up the steep banks against
avalanches of sand.
435
00:25:19,760 --> 00:25:22,733
The reward is to experience
the unique wonder
436
00:25:22,733 --> 00:25:24,903
of Europe's biggest dune.
437
00:25:26,310 --> 00:25:29,531
A perfect place to end this journey.
438
00:25:29,531 --> 00:25:32,864
(calm retreating music)
439
00:25:34,950 --> 00:25:37,867
(quick epic music)
34424
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