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(wind howling)
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(upbeat music)
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- Our journey
begins at the border
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of Switzerland and Italy on
the shores of Lake Maggiore.
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From there we fly north
passing ancient castles
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and medieval villages.
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It leads us along the San Bernardino Pass
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over the souring Swiss Alps.
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We then cross the border into the smallest
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and wealthiest country
in Europe, Liechtenstein.
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Visiting the capital of
Vaduz before heading back
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into Swiss territory.
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Northwest is the large,
medieval town of St. Gallen,
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a fascinating mix of ancient
heritage and modernity.
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We follow the Rhine to
the town of Schaffhausen,
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a centuries old merchant
stop over along the river
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before finally ending our journey
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at the dramatic Rhine Falls,
Europe's largest waterfall.
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The deep brooding waters of Lake Maggiore
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have inspired many writers
over the centuries.
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Not least was Ernest Hemmingway
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who told of two lovers
escaping together by boat
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in a farewell to arms.
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On the east side lies
Bellinzona, a strategic gateway
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to the Alps.
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It was a site of contention
between Italy and Switzerland
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for centuries.
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This constant jostling of
power resulted in these castles
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and watchtowers that now
dot the mountainsides.
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Most notable is Costello di Montebello,
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erected on this hill in the 13th century.
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Recognizing the power afforded
by controlling this passage
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through the Alps, the
Dukes of Milan further
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fortified the castle some 200 years later.
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The site holds many tales and mysteries
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like the story of Gwendolyn
the albino daughter
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of a feudal lord who one day vanished
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while playing near the castle.
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Legend has it the girl's
voice can still be heard
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whispering from the surrounding forests.
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This also, Castelgrande
sitting on a low, rocky ridge
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which has been inhabited since 4000 B.C.
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An ancient stronghold of the city,
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the castle occupies a central
and forbidding presence
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while the surrounding walls
follow the natural contours
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of the rocky terraces.
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In medieval times, it was
often said the Castelgrande
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could never be taken,
so well was it defended
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and fortified.
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And although it was never
destroyed by armies,
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a devastating landslide in 1515
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finally forced it's earlier
walls to come crashing down.
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Along the same ridge and
overlooking Bellinzona,
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the Castello di Sasso Corbaro
reinforces the city's image
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as a settlement that has been at the heart
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of many a power struggle.
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It was Milan's medieval rulers
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who built the formidable
structure now nestled
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in these mountaintop forests
falling slowly into ruin.
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The very history of Switzerland
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has been shaped by the Alps
as have been the people
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who made the peaks and valleys their home.
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And as we weave our way inward
through the twisting hills,
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we stumble across quaint villages
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which once served as stopping points.
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Making our way up to a neighboring ridge,
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we come to the church
and castle of Santa Maria
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in Kalinka, approximately
1,000 meters above sea level.
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The village managed to
charm the English novelist,
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Samuel Butler who in 1881,
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mused on the seemingly impossible task
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of building a church
at such a great height.
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Butler also witnessed
the famous spring thaw
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resulting in myriad beautiful waterfalls
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cascading into the Alpine
valleys from the peaks of above.
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He wrote how quiet and full of rest
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does everything appear to be.
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There is no dust nor
glare and hardly a sound
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save that of the unfailing waterfalls.
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(tranquil music)
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With such a backdrop it's
no wonder that these hills
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and forests are steeped in age old myths.
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Indeed local children are
told of the Barbegazi,
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small white furred heavily
bearded gnome-like creatures
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who pass the summer in
caves until winter comes
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when they emerge to plod
about through the deep snow.
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(tranquil music)
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As technology progressed,
the Swiss found ways
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of taming this forbidding landscape
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as shown by the San Bernardino tunnel
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running over six kilometers
through the hills.
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Switzerland's mountainous
and often impassable terrain
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has added much to the rich
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and varied culture of the country
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resulting in distinct regional
identities and languages.
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Crossings, like the San Bernardino Pass
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are the thoroughfares
for cultural interchange.
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In this case between the German
and Italian speaking regions
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of the country Graubunden and Ticino.
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With an elevation of over
2,000 meters at it's highest,
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the pass snakes over the Swiss Alps
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following a path that
first became important
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as a mule track in the 1400's.
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It was only in the 18th century
that the King of Sardinia
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financed the building of a road
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as a way to protect and
improve trade in the region.
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The modern version has been
built with many hairpin bends
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in order to provide a smooth
gradient for travelers.
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Despite such safety precautions,
the pass remains closed
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in winter and even in good weather
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some areas of the
crossing remain hazardous.
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(dramatic music)
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Since the Romans first began
seriously navigating the area,
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such mountain roads have
been described as a mix
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of stunningly beautiful,
wild and threatening,
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never short of falling
rocks and dangerous waters.
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The majestic, yet perilous
Alps are ingrained
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in the national identity.
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They cover half of Switzerland's land area
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making it one of the most
mountainous countries in Europe.
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(dramatic music)
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And being the resourceful people they are,
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the Swiss have made much use
of their unique geography
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harnessing hydropower
from the many swift rivers
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which collectively generate
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over half of the country's electricity.
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Indeed, the high Alpine Sufas Lake
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was created by such a hydroelectric dam.
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Peaks over 3,000 meters line
the surrounding valleys.
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Local myths and legends going
back to the myths of time
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speak of dragons and demons.
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In the villages below,
festivals are dedicated
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to celebrating the
majesty of the mountains
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and subduing whatever magical creatures
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that might reside here.
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(dramatic music)
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And in the mist of this
rugged, forested landscape
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stands Auenstein Castle perched
on a dizzying cliff edge
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it's admirable construction dates back
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to the mid-13th century.
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Perhaps the most notorious
incident in the castle's history
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concerns the ill-fated
Count Andreas Fonnsonanburg
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who in the 1500's provoked one Count Felix
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by commenting on his small stature.
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This resulted in Andreas
being dramatically murdered
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stabbed and lanced over 20 times by Felix
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and his henchmen and then
thrown from the castle top
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and over the cliff's edge.
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Less macabre is a place
that's more associated
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with well being.
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Castle Rhazuns stands
over the Hinterrhein River
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whose waters are said to
have healing properties
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and is used to treat ailments
from bladder infections
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to rheumatism.
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Now unoccupied, Rhazuns is one
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of the many feudal era
castles that line the banks
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of the Rhine and it's tributaries.
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(instrumental music)
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Armies once struggled
over the steep terrain
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to reach this castle which
is now easily accessed
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by a handy cable car across the river.
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Heading northeast, we
arrive at the tiny country
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of Leichtenstein one of
the smallest in the world
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with a population of only 40,000.
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Surrounded by the Alps
and bordered by the Rhine,
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it shares a close
relationship with Switzerland.
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(slow instrumental music)
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Further down the valley,
we reach Gutenberg Castle
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poised over the town of Balzers.
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Believed by some to be
a site of pagan worship
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from as early as the third century B.C.
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It still has connections
with the ancient tradition.
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Funkensonntag, literally fire Sunday
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is celebrated throughout Liechtenstein.
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In the run up to Easter,
village folk of Balzers
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use this site to light a bonfire
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upon which they place
the firework laden effigy
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of a witch meant to symbolize
the killing of winter.
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Just eight kilometers north and nestled
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amongst the mountains is the capital
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of this small country, Vaduz.
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The country was purchased in 1699
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by the Liechtenstein family
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and the billionaire royal
lineage still rule here today
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administering affairs
from this tiny capital
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of just 5,000 people.
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As we work our way along the Rhine,
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we find small isolated villages
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scattered about the landscape.
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However, the entire
population of the country
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do come together once a year
to celebrate Leichtenstein Day
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in the Vaduz Castle grounds.
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Whilst the river snakes
onwards through the valley,
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farmlands and settlements,
we turn westward
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to traverse the souring Appenzell Alps
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and back into Switzerland.
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Many of the country's borders are defined
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by such dramatic geological features.
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Since the Middle Ages, various powers
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has attempted to control
this mountainous landscape
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but the country's rugged inaccessibility
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made it impossible for conquerors
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to impose their lasting rule
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and as a result the very
existence of Switzerland
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as a nation is tied
intrinsically to these Alps.
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For 700 years, speakers of
four different languages
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from wildly varying
cultures and traditions
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have operated under a
unifying, equitable system
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of government and consistently been able
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to withstand the political
pressures of the outside world
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all thanks to these vast often
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treacherous ridges and valleys.
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But the mountains serve as
more than just Switzerland's
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natural borderlands.
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They're also the nation's
primary source of recreation.
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During the romantic movement,
Europeans flocked here
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to witness the singular
beauty of the landscape
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and the tourists are still coming today.
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Inns like this one, the Asha
standing at almost 1500 meters
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served the thousands of intrepid hikers
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that pass over and across
these hills every year.
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It's said in Switzerland
that when one crosses
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00:14:14,524 --> 00:14:16,709
into the Appenzell district
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they should set their clock back 10 years.
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00:14:19,911 --> 00:14:23,052
Thought to be the most
traditional of the Swiss regions,
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the people here hold fast
to old-fashion values.
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(upbeat folk music)
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This rural mentality is considered by some
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to define the Swiss character.
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Predisposed to hard work, organization
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with a deep appreciation
of nature and community.
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(upbeat folk music)
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Switzerland's relative isolation
from foreign entanglements
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over the last century has
allowed it to preserve
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many of it's charming medieval villages.
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(slow instrumental music)
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One example which is now
grown into a sizeable town
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is St. Gallen the most
elevated, major settlement
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in the country.
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A medieval textile powerhouse,
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the town has retained
it's ideals of quality,
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production and traditional workmanship.
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In the year 1612, a wondering
Irish monk named Gallus
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withdrew into the surrounding
hills to live as a hermit.
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His story reverberated
throughout the Christian world
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00:15:36,461 --> 00:15:39,962
and a century later a
monastery for Benedictine monks
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00:15:39,962 --> 00:15:43,580
was established here where
the St. Galan Cathedral
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now stands.
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It's abbey holds one of the
richest medieval libraries
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in the world with a most
comprehensive collection
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00:15:51,260 --> 00:15:53,733
of German writing from that era.
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But another ecclesiastical building holds
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particular significance for St. Galan.
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The Church of St.
Laurenzen was at the heart
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of religious turmoil in the 16th century
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with the town mayor and abbot
leading the opposing factions
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of Catholics and Protestants.
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(slow dramatic music)
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Today, it enjoys a more sedate existence
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serving primarily as a
meeting place for locals.
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Moving north and across
the Alpine foothills
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we arrive at the massive Lake Constance.
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Though it serves as a natural border
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between Switzerland, Germany and Austria
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the exact demarcations are unclear.
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The Swiss holds the opinion that it runs
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through the center of the lake
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while their neighbors believe the body
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to be international waters.
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(dramatic music)
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Located 400 meters above sea level
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the lake is the third
largest in central Europe.
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Amongst the swaths of
farmland lining it's banks,
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and numerous settlements
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the largest of which
is the town of Konstanz
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straddling a border half it's population
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lives in Switzerland and
the other in Germany.
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For this reason, it's
unique for accepting both
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the Swiss Franc and the Euro.
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A city of great importance
during the Middle Ages
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it was here that the great
western schism was adjudicated.
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Two men competing for the
papacy in the early 1400
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threatened a massive riff
in the Christian world.
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It was a council of Konstanz
that had both men deposed
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and cleared the way for a
new pope to step forward.
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The town and lake are
better known in modern times
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to be the location of the
first zeppelin flight in 1900.
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The airship took off from the town
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and drifted for five
kilometers over the lake.
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The Rhine weaves from
Lake Constance down into
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it's subsidiary Lake Obersee.
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Though this region and
it's lakes achieve fame
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through the first zeppelin,
it's history goes back
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over 10,000 years when
hunter/gatherer tribes
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roamed these shores.
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But it was the Celtic
settlements around 500 B.C.
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that were the catalyst for
the many small villages
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that still line the shores today.
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Centuries later the entire
region was incorporated
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into the Roman empire around 15 B.C.
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At the point where Lake Obersee
flows into the Rhine River
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is the town of Stein am Rhein.
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The city has been of strategic importance
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throughout it's history
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but the town was mistakenly bombed
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so it was claimed by allied
forces in World War II.
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It was the heaviest onslaught
of it's kind in Switzerland
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and a number of lives were lost.
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(slow instrumental music)
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The damaged areas have
since been well restored
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with the new architecture
actively preserving
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it's old charm.
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Although Switzerland claimed neutrality
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in both World Wars, it's
for this very reason
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that it attracted considerable interest
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as a place for diplomacy, espionage
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and a safe haven for refugees.
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Managing to squeeze through both wars
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with relatively little damage
to infrastructural loss
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of human life, the country soon emerged
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as one of the major
banking powers in Europe.
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On the outer edges of the town
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stands the Hohenklingen Castle.
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It was erected in the year 1200
to protect the feudal manor
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from marauders and peasant uprisings.
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The castle also played an important role
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in the Swabian War of 1499
and served as an outpost
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in World War II.
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(slow instrumental music)
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For many years, Hohenklingen had no buyers
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and was threatened with destruction
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but today it has a popular
inn with spectacular views
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of the river below.
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As we travel further down the Rhine,
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we come to Diessenhofen,
a small market town
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compared to other cities on the river,
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it held importance in the 13th century
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under Habsburg rule.
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Once the region started growing
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the people here fiercely
protected their right
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of self government within
the Helvetic Republic
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which eventually became
modern-day Switzerland.
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(slow instrumental music)
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Connecting the towns of
Diessenhofen and Gailingen
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across the Rhine is this covered bridge.
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Built in 1814, it replaced
it's ancient predecessor.
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In the 12th and 13th
centuries this crossing
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served as a major thoroughfare for goods
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moving north to south
and tolls received here
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were the main source of
income for the two towns.
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Traveling along the river
close to the German border
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we come to Schaffhausen,
the northern most city
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in Switzerland.
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The town drop near the Rhine Falls,
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a major waterfall where we're headed.
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The drop would mark the
end of the river journey
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for the early merchants
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and this was a good place
to unload their goods
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so over time a settlement developed.
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Although it's the nearby
falls that brought prosperity
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to the city, the Munot Fortress
is it's undisputed symbol.
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50 meters in diameter,
walls four meters thick,
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artillery domes hidden in the dry moat
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and mounted upon the apex, the
fort was quite sophisticated
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when built in the 1500's
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but the only action it ever saw
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was during the Napoleonic
invasions of 1799,
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Afterwards it's stone was pilfered for use
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00:22:57,369 --> 00:23:01,285
in the fast growing city until
it was officially protected
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and restored.
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But Schaffhausen's very
existence is wholly attributable
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to these majestic Rhine Falls.
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(inspirational music)
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While navigating down the river,
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merchants and travelers alike
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disembarked here out of necessity
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but often stayed in the city
for extended periods by choice
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00:23:37,510 --> 00:23:41,553
and this magnificent site is
possibly one of the reasons.
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The falls have been only
slightly developed since then
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including small unobtrusive water mills
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and tourist lookout points.
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00:24:01,150 --> 00:24:03,540
Many proposals for hydroelectric dams
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00:24:03,540 --> 00:24:05,750
and other power plants near the falls
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00:24:05,750 --> 00:24:07,630
have been accepted in theory
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00:24:07,630 --> 00:24:09,990
but have always been actively opposed
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00:24:09,990 --> 00:24:13,643
by prominent Swiss figures as
well as the general public.
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Such is the desire to
maintain the integrity
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00:24:19,413 --> 00:24:22,276
of this natural wonder.
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00:24:22,276 --> 00:24:25,443
(inspirational music)
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00:24:27,320 --> 00:24:30,320
However there are some
who pay their respects
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00:24:30,320 --> 00:24:32,463
to this national monument in ways other
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00:24:32,463 --> 00:24:35,123
than simply standing and admiring.
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00:24:36,210 --> 00:24:39,530
In 1999 the falls was
successfully navigated
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00:24:39,530 --> 00:24:42,150
for the first time in
history by a kayaker,
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00:24:42,150 --> 00:24:44,433
a daring feat that now comes
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00:24:44,433 --> 00:24:48,466
with a five and half thousand dollar fine.
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00:24:48,466 --> 00:24:51,633
(inspirational music)
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00:25:17,980 --> 00:25:19,900
It's the deep tradition of respect
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00:25:19,900 --> 00:25:22,741
between man and nature
which so characterizes
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00:25:22,741 --> 00:25:25,153
the Swiss landscape and identity
401
00:25:25,153 --> 00:25:28,793
that makes these powerful
falls the perfect place
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00:25:28,793 --> 00:25:31,786
to end this journey.
403
00:25:31,786 --> 00:25:35,669
(inspirational music)
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00:25:35,669 --> 00:25:38,419
(dramatic music)
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00:26:08,913 --> 00:26:11,663
(dramatic music)
32662
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