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(wind whistling)
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(reverent orchestral music)
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- We start our journey
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in the forests of Thuringian,
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which have inspired creatives
and theologians for centuries.
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Emerging from the dense woods,
it's on to the town of Fulda,
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resting place of Germany's
patron saint, Boniface.
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And then we'll weave through
the skyscrapers of Frankfurt,
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continental Europe's financial powerhouse.
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Then, gliding from
modernity into the past,
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we travel to the city of
Worms, the famed medieval city
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where Martin Luther was exiled
from the Catholic Church.
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At Ludwigshafen, we'll
have a chance to marvel
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at the world's biggest chemical plant
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before traveling onward
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to the Enlightment-era gardens
of Schwetzingen Castle.
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And here we delve back into
the rolling mountain forests,
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ending our adventure at the
formidable Trifels Castle.
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(soft orchestral music)
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The Thuringian Forest
has often been described
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as Germany's green heart.
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Many consider the wooded hills
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to be the poetic and
philosophical soul of the nation.
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These mountain ridges form
a 1,000-year-old boundary
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known as the Rennsteig,
which separates the peoples
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of southern and northern Germany,
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each with their own unique
dialects and ancient customs.
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And sitting on that boundary
line is Großer Inselsberg,
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or 'big island mountain.'
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Though it's now topped
with transmitter towers
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and broadcast stations,
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this ancient site is steeped in legends.
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It's where covens of witches
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were once believed the
hold feasts and orgies.
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But in more recent times,
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myths of a different sort
would emerge from this summit.
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Because it was here that
an antenna erected in 1939
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commenced broadcasts of
Nazi propaganda messages
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during World War II.
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Moving southwest, the sighting
of a medieval castle ruin
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is a reminder of the
region's long history.
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And one thing that probably
hasn't changed in all that time
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is the Thuringian
passion for the outdoors,
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as captured in a local
folk song which goes,
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"I wander so happily over the Rennsteig,
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"bag on my back, guitar in
my hand, joyous and carefree.
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"I'll stay as long as it pleases me."
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Crossing over into the
neighboring state of Hesse,
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we arrive at Fulda.
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Nestled between two mountain ranges,
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this town had the misfortune
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of lying exactly where it was presumed
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that any ground invasion route would occur
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between NATO and Soviet
forces during the Cold War.
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Its situation here, on
the old east-west border,
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meant a massive military
presence on either side.
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But today, Fulda is considered
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more for its religious history,
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the center of which is its cathedral.
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In 754, when Boniface, the
patron saint of Germany,
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was murdered along with his 54 followers,
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his remains were brought to Fulda.
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He was eventually buried in the cathedral,
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making it an important
Catholic site for pilgrimage.
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Although the state of Hesse
works to preserve its rich past,
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the region also keeps a
keen eye on the future.
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It leads Germany in
wind energy production,
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with over 20,000 turbines
scattered across the countryside.
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Its aim is to generate
one-fifth of all energy consumed
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from renewable sources by 2020.
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And one of the main consumers
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of all this renewable
energy are Hesse's farmers,
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the caretakers of these vast
swathes of agricultural land.
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As well as crops, livestock farms abound,
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producing the region's
unique butter and cheese.
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Carving through the
countryside is the A5 motorway.
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We join it as it heads southwest
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towards the capital city
of Hesse: Frankfurt,
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the largest financial center
in all of continental Europe.
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(soft meditative music)
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Its full title, Frankfurt am Main,
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has earned it the nickname Mainhattan
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because of its American-style skyline.
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Of Germany's 10 tallest
buildings, nine are here.
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And towering over the rest is,
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without doubt, the Europaturm.
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Completed in 1974 and
standing at 331 meters,
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it's the tallest freestanding
structure in Germany.
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It took five years to complete
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and the six-ton antenna was set
in position by a helicopter.
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Frankfurt serves as the seat
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of both the European Central
and the German Federal Banks.
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Indeed, this city of 600,000
is known for far more
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than being the namesake
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of a popular bread and sausage snack.
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While most of continental
Europe still remains
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adamantly opposed to a skyline
dominated by skyscrapers,
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the irreparable destruction of Frankfurt
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during the Allied bombings in World War II
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left the city a clean slate
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upon which architects
could practice their craft.
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In fact, the city's so proud
of its dazzling buildings
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that a skyscraper
festival is held each year
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where visitors are given the opportunity
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to wander through them at their leisure
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and admire the construction and design.
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And one of the few structures in Germany
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with its own postal code is the Messeturm,
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or, as locals prefer to call it,
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Bleistift, meaning 'the pencil.'
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This 63-story skyscraper
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is the second-tallest
habitable building in Germany.
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Upon its completion in 1991,
it set the world record
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for the longest continuous concrete pour.
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90 trucks poured concrete for 78 hours
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into the six-meter-deep foundation.
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And at the heart of this bustling city
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is Frankfurt Central Station,
which sees over 1,100 trains
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and 350,000 passengers
come and go every day.
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00:09:05,940 --> 00:09:10,940
Today, Frankfort Airport sees
around 1,400 flights each day
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is headed for Frankfurt
International Airport,
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the busiest in Germany and
third-busiest in Europe.
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It came to prominence as a
key air base in the 1940s.
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And it was from here that
the first bombers took off
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during the Nazi invasion of France.
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Though by the end of the war,
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the runway and fuel depots
were completely destroyed
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by Allied airstrikes,
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the complex was made fully
operational once again
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during the subsequent US occupation.
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Today, Frankfort Airport sees
around 1,400 flights each day
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and is the primary hub for Lufthansa,
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Europe's biggest airline.
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From the airport, we rejoin the A5
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as it makes its way down
through the state of Hesse.
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(slow piano music)
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It passes Weiterstadt Prison,
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a place with a troubled past,
even before it was completed.
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In 1993, while it was
still under construction,
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members from the Red Army Faction,
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a left-wing militant group,
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breached the walls and detonated
200 kilos of explosives.
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It was to set the project back
four years and €70 million.
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The prison was finally completed in 1997
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and today holds 570 inmates.
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Further south, along the river Rhine
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is another site for which
security was paramount:
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Biblis Nuclear Power Plant.
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At one time, such reactors were supplying
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around a fifth of the
country's energy needs.
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But a gradual phasing
out of nuclear power,
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pushed on by Japan's
Fukushima disaster in 2011,
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spelled the end of operations for Biblis.
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Today, the installation
remains largely idle.
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As we continue following the river,
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we cross into the federal
state of Rhineland-Palatinate
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and the city of Worms.
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An ancient settlement with Celtic origins,
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it is now most known for
its infamous Edict Worms.
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(soft chanting music)
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The edict of 1521
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denouncing the monk
Martin Luther a heretic
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was issued here at Worms Cathedral.
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In this very building,
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Luther stood defiant before Charles V,
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emperor of the Holy Roman Empire
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and refused to recant his beliefs
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that questioned the church's authority.
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Perhaps the assembly
felt especially slighted,
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as it was in this very city,
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seat of the Holy Roman Empire in Germany,
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where Luther had dared to
translate the Bible from Latin.
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Despite his excommunication,
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the Protestant Reformation
had already gained momentum.
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And only five years after the edict,
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the very first English
translation of the New Testament
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was printed here in Worms.
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Marking another chapter
in the city's long history
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is St. Paul's Cathedral,
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constructed during a
period of great upheaval.
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The late-10th century wasn't
the best of times for Worms.
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Beset with lawlessness
and crumbling buildings,
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townsfolk abandoned the city in droves.
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But fortunes changed when
Bishop Burchard was appointed
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at the turn of the millennium.
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With the construction of this cathedral,
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he was able to gradually lure
people back into the town.
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It was deconsecrated in 1797
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and has been used as a
warehouse, barn, and museum.
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But religious life did finally
return to the old building.
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It's now a monastery where
Dominican monks live and worship.
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Another of Worms' iconic
landmarks is Nibelungen Bridge,
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named after a mythological saga.
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It tells the story of the
hero Siegfried's tragic death
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and the vengeance his companions
exact upon his killers.
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The name of the bridge
is a wonderful example
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of the Germanic fusion of
ancient pre-Christian mythology
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with modernity.
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A modernity which
becomes ever more visible
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as we arrive at the BASF
production plant at Ludwigshafen.
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What's now the largest
chemical company in the world,
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employing over 33,000 people,
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emerged from humble
beginnings back in 1865.
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(soft orchestral music)
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It started as a small warehouse
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where Friedrich Engelhorn
produced and sold bottled gas
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for lighting bars and workshops.
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Over the next hundred years,
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the company gradually
expanded into new territories
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and bought up more and more land
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until the outbreak of World War II.
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The massive demand of the war effort
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for chemicals of all sorts
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propelled the company to new heights
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from which it has never fallen.
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BASF's location by the river
is certainly no accident.
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The Rhine serves as an important corridor
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of commerce and transportation for Europe.
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Originating in Switzerland,
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the river weaves through the Alps,
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cuts through Germany, and
terminates in the North Sea,
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passing many important
centers along the way.
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Cargo-carrying barges like this one
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are constantly moving up and down
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the river's 1,320 kilometers.
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00:14:53,900 --> 00:14:58,500
Beyond trade, the Rhine is
also seen as a national symbol,
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having long been considered
the sacred border of Germany,
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dating back to Roman times.
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It was a belief held
even during World War II.
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When the Allies finally crossed the Rhine,
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the war was deemed all but lost.
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And crossing that very
river, we arrive at Mannheim,
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nicknamed City of the Squares,
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00:15:25,460 --> 00:15:27,253
poking fun at its grid pattern.
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But those straight roads
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no doubt inspired the idea of bicycles.
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The now-ubiquitous machine
was invented here in 1816
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as an alternative to the horse.
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Beyond its reputation for innovation,
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Mannheim was also a significant port
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00:15:49,830 --> 00:15:53,263
and manufacturing center during
the Industrial Revolution.
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This booming industry
necessitated the construction
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00:15:57,690 --> 00:15:59,950
of this massive marshaling yard
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The Church of the Holy Spirit
is a sight that lures them in.
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00:16:47,350 --> 00:16:49,290
Part of Heidelberg's appeal
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00:16:49,290 --> 00:16:51,620
is that it's one of the few German cities
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00:16:51,620 --> 00:16:55,570
that went virtually unscathed
during the Second World War,
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00:16:55,570 --> 00:16:58,373
and so much of its
architecture is original.
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00:16:16,970 --> 00:16:19,210
However, despite these setbacks,
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00:16:19,210 --> 00:16:20,760
the Mannheim marshaling yard
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00:16:20,760 --> 00:16:23,060
was able to reorganize and rebuild
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and is now amongst the largest
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00:16:24,860 --> 00:16:26,973
and most successful in Europe.
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As we follow the Rhine further
south, we come to Heidelberg,
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00:16:33,450 --> 00:16:37,210
renowned as one of Germany's
great university towns
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00:16:37,210 --> 00:16:39,193
and as a magnet for travelers.
257
00:16:43,090 --> 00:16:47,350
The Church of the Holy Spirit
is a sight that lures them in.
258
00:16:47,350 --> 00:16:49,290
Part of Heidelberg's appeal
259
00:16:49,290 --> 00:16:51,620
is that it's one of the few German cities
260
00:16:51,620 --> 00:16:55,570
that went virtually unscathed
during the Second World War,
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00:16:55,570 --> 00:16:58,373
and so much of its
architecture is original.
262
00:17:00,380 --> 00:17:02,780
However, unlike the rest of the town,
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00:17:02,780 --> 00:17:05,170
the 12th-century Heidelberg Castle
264
00:17:05,170 --> 00:17:08,930
has had an extremely violent
and tumultuous history.
265
00:17:08,930 --> 00:17:12,627
As Victor Hugo put it, "What
times it has been through.
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00:17:12,627 --> 00:17:14,837
"500 years it has been victim
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00:17:14,837 --> 00:17:17,677
"to everything that has shaken Europe."
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00:17:18,700 --> 00:17:21,090
Countless battles, raging fires,
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00:17:21,090 --> 00:17:23,520
even two devastating lightning strikes
270
00:17:23,520 --> 00:17:25,670
took their toll on the castle.
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00:17:25,670 --> 00:17:28,953
And by the 18th century,
it was a derelict ruin.
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00:17:30,370 --> 00:17:33,240
But ironically, it was
this romantic reminder
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00:17:33,240 --> 00:17:34,690
of the nation's heritage
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00:17:34,690 --> 00:17:36,830
that inspired successive generations
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00:17:36,830 --> 00:17:39,313
to rebuild parts of
the original structure.
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00:17:41,900 --> 00:17:44,440
Today, Heidelberg Castle stands
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as one of the finest examples
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00:17:46,040 --> 00:17:49,423
of Renaissance architecture
north of the Alps.
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00:17:51,940 --> 00:17:56,240
It overlooks another great
achievement in building design.
280
00:17:56,240 --> 00:18:00,400
Straddling the Rhine is
the Karl Theodor Bridge.
281
00:18:00,400 --> 00:18:03,560
The bridge was adored by
writers and academics.
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00:18:03,560 --> 00:18:06,760
And for this reason, the
bank on the eastern side
283
00:18:06,760 --> 00:18:09,333
has been dubbed the Philosophers' Walk.
284
00:18:10,860 --> 00:18:14,110
These two white towers at the
northern end of the bridge
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00:18:14,110 --> 00:18:17,740
are famous for once being
the residence of Gert Kalow,
286
00:18:17,740 --> 00:18:20,260
a writer and filmmaker.
287
00:18:20,260 --> 00:18:22,730
Highly critical of postwar Germany,
288
00:18:22,730 --> 00:18:25,763
it's where he penned some
of his most powerful work.
289
00:18:29,070 --> 00:18:31,290
A few valleys over from Heidelberg
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00:18:31,290 --> 00:18:33,530
is the town of Schwetzingen.
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00:18:33,530 --> 00:18:37,130
The gardens here completely
dominate the city.
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00:18:37,130 --> 00:18:39,440
Even the castle at the heart of the estate
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00:18:39,440 --> 00:18:42,783
is lost amongst the
vast tracts of greenery.
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00:18:42,783 --> 00:18:45,310
(bright medieval music)
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00:18:45,310 --> 00:18:48,430
Famous for its spacious
and ornate landscape,
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00:18:48,430 --> 00:18:50,510
the compounds hosts a summer festival
297
00:18:50,510 --> 00:18:52,943
of opera and classical music.
298
00:18:59,090 --> 00:19:02,470
In the 18th century, the
English landscape design
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00:19:02,470 --> 00:19:04,813
begin replacing the formal style.
300
00:19:05,700 --> 00:19:09,130
The Schwetzingen gardens were
created right at the juncture
301
00:19:09,130 --> 00:19:10,743
of those two aesthetics.
302
00:19:11,710 --> 00:19:13,750
It's a combination of designs,
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00:19:13,750 --> 00:19:16,810
with its formal walkways
and central fountain
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00:19:16,810 --> 00:19:18,590
set against the adjoining gardens
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00:19:18,590 --> 00:19:19,960
that seek to be more in tune
306
00:19:19,960 --> 00:19:21,793
with their natural surroundings.
307
00:19:26,890 --> 00:19:31,300
The Schwetzingen Castle itself
was built in the 17th century
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00:19:31,300 --> 00:19:34,878
and stands at the far end of
the central garden walkway.
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00:19:34,878 --> 00:19:37,878
(soft violin music)
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00:19:38,870 --> 00:19:43,030
This mosque is the earliest
of its style in Germany.
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00:19:43,030 --> 00:19:45,470
Built at a time when
Turkish-style architecture
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00:19:45,470 --> 00:19:46,860
had become fashionable,
313
00:19:46,860 --> 00:19:49,640
it was never intended as a place of prayer
314
00:19:49,640 --> 00:19:51,703
but built as a work of beauty.
315
00:19:54,534 --> 00:19:57,420
Theaters, temples, and classical buildings
316
00:19:57,420 --> 00:20:01,460
encircle the central fountain
and provide restful stops
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00:20:01,460 --> 00:20:03,210
for visitors exploring the gardens.
318
00:20:08,680 --> 00:20:10,740
Just south of Schwetzingen,
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00:20:10,740 --> 00:20:14,550
we come to another vast
swathe of cleared land;
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00:20:14,550 --> 00:20:16,600
this time, not for a garden
321
00:20:16,600 --> 00:20:18,844
but for the Hockenheimring racetrack.
322
00:20:18,844 --> 00:20:20,510
(light rock music)
323
00:20:20,510 --> 00:20:25,110
It is aptly situated along the
Bertha Benz Memorial Route,
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00:20:25,110 --> 00:20:26,200
a stretch of road
325
00:20:26,200 --> 00:20:28,990
dedicated to the first
long-distance journey
326
00:20:28,990 --> 00:20:32,770
made by automobile back in the 1880s
327
00:20:32,770 --> 00:20:35,773
as a way to market Mercedes-Benz cars.
328
00:20:38,950 --> 00:20:42,200
And as we yet again hop
from present back to past,
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00:20:42,200 --> 00:20:45,153
we come to the historical town of Speyer.
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00:20:46,060 --> 00:20:48,472
Strategically located on the Rhine,
331
00:20:48,472 --> 00:20:50,920
meticulously-crafted golden artifacts
332
00:20:50,920 --> 00:20:52,430
have been discovered here,
333
00:20:52,430 --> 00:20:57,373
suggesting advanced settlements
dating back to 1500 BC.
334
00:20:58,290 --> 00:21:01,400
Officially established
as a city by the Romans,
335
00:21:01,400 --> 00:21:03,384
it is one of the country's oldest.
336
00:21:03,384 --> 00:21:05,760
(soft orchestral music)
337
00:21:05,760 --> 00:21:08,630
Speyer Cathedral's setting
in the heart of the city
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00:21:08,630 --> 00:21:11,610
is a reminder of the
important role it once played
339
00:21:11,610 --> 00:21:13,243
within the Holy Roman Empire.
340
00:21:14,480 --> 00:21:17,510
It also served as a final resting place
341
00:21:17,510 --> 00:21:20,783
for German emperors spanning 300 years.
342
00:21:24,640 --> 00:21:26,530
Embracing the more recent past,
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00:21:26,530 --> 00:21:30,240
Speyer opened the Technik
Museum, an impressive gallery
344
00:21:30,240 --> 00:21:33,900
featuring everything from
an early Soviet spacecraft,
345
00:21:33,900 --> 00:21:35,630
samples of moon dust,
346
00:21:35,630 --> 00:21:40,130
and a retired 747 donated
by Lufthansa in 2002.
347
00:21:41,005 --> 00:21:44,505
(quirky electronic music)
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00:21:46,710 --> 00:21:49,380
And just outside Speyer along the Rhine
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00:21:49,380 --> 00:21:51,863
is the Daimler Global Logistics Center.
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00:21:54,880 --> 00:21:56,900
It might not sound too exciting,
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00:21:56,900 --> 00:21:59,630
but if you run into car
trouble on the autobahn,
352
00:21:59,630 --> 00:22:02,480
you'd be happy to break down here,
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00:22:02,480 --> 00:22:05,320
because this is the largest warehouse
354
00:22:05,320 --> 00:22:07,433
for vehicle parts in the world.
355
00:22:08,830 --> 00:22:11,700
It's actually situated on a manmade island
356
00:22:11,700 --> 00:22:13,720
created in the 1800s
357
00:22:13,720 --> 00:22:16,800
as part of a river-straightening project.
358
00:22:16,800 --> 00:22:19,870
The land was reclaimed
entirely with shovels,
359
00:22:19,870 --> 00:22:24,033
wheelbarrows, and hours
upon hours of hard labor.
360
00:22:28,370 --> 00:22:29,920
And from car parts,
361
00:22:29,920 --> 00:22:33,490
it's on to mass production
of a different sort.
362
00:22:33,490 --> 00:22:36,940
These are the vineyards
of the Rhine Valley,
363
00:22:36,940 --> 00:22:40,003
the second-largest
wine-producing region in Germany.
364
00:22:41,310 --> 00:22:43,750
In turn, Germany is among the top 10
365
00:22:43,750 --> 00:22:45,650
wine producers in the world,
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00:22:45,650 --> 00:22:47,970
producing more or less the same quantity
367
00:22:47,970 --> 00:22:49,703
as South Africa and Chile.
368
00:22:51,170 --> 00:22:54,250
That's despite having some of
the most northerly vineyards
369
00:22:54,250 --> 00:22:55,363
of any country.
370
00:22:57,520 --> 00:22:59,570
Being so close to the French border,
371
00:22:59,570 --> 00:23:03,220
the climate here is relatively
warm, sunny, and dry,
372
00:23:03,220 --> 00:23:06,150
enabling the production of
a wide variety of styles
373
00:23:06,150 --> 00:23:08,393
of both red and white wines.
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00:23:10,740 --> 00:23:14,080
The many wineries and settlements
that dot the Rhine Valley
375
00:23:14,080 --> 00:23:17,350
are part of a tradition
that goes back 2,000 years,
376
00:23:17,350 --> 00:23:20,433
when the Romans first
introduced vines to the area;
377
00:23:22,400 --> 00:23:24,620
an ideal place for growing grapes,
378
00:23:24,620 --> 00:23:28,053
since they were sheltered by
these densely-forested hills.
379
00:23:32,240 --> 00:23:35,000
They lead us into one of
the biggest wooded ranges
380
00:23:35,000 --> 00:23:37,737
in Europe: the Palatinate Forest,
381
00:23:37,737 --> 00:23:40,633
extending far into neighboring France.
382
00:23:40,633 --> 00:23:43,700
(soft orchestral music)
383
00:23:43,700 --> 00:23:46,620
Covering over 1,700 square kilometers,
384
00:23:46,620 --> 00:23:49,630
the UNESCO-designated biosphere reserve
385
00:23:49,630 --> 00:23:52,163
presents a magical escape for visitors.
386
00:23:54,270 --> 00:23:56,620
But this ruin perched on a hill
387
00:23:56,620 --> 00:23:59,583
suggests a different
story from times past.
388
00:24:01,830 --> 00:24:03,290
Flanking the Rhine Valley,
389
00:24:03,290 --> 00:24:07,440
Madenburg Castle had remained
intact for hundreds of years
390
00:24:07,440 --> 00:24:11,433
until it was destroyed for
the first time in 1525.
391
00:24:13,450 --> 00:24:15,610
Subsequently, for over a century,
392
00:24:15,610 --> 00:24:17,970
the fortress suffered battle after battle
393
00:24:17,970 --> 00:24:21,030
until it was totally
decimated by French troops
394
00:24:21,030 --> 00:24:24,593
during the Reunion War at
the end of the 17th century.
395
00:24:25,450 --> 00:24:27,440
Madenburg was never rebuilt.
396
00:24:27,440 --> 00:24:29,440
And today, the ruins stand
397
00:24:29,440 --> 00:24:31,883
as part of the rich
history of this region.
398
00:24:34,200 --> 00:24:36,230
But only a few hills over
399
00:24:36,230 --> 00:24:39,240
is a fortress in slightly better shape
400
00:24:39,240 --> 00:24:43,973
and our last stop in this
journey: Trifels Castle.
401
00:24:45,450 --> 00:24:47,740
Built of distinctive red sandstone,
402
00:24:47,740 --> 00:24:49,490
it was said in the 13th century
403
00:24:49,490 --> 00:24:53,333
that he who hold the
Trifels holds the empire.
404
00:24:55,630 --> 00:24:58,600
It is also where
England's king, Richard I,
405
00:24:58,600 --> 00:25:00,230
was imprisoned and ransomed
406
00:25:00,230 --> 00:25:02,450
after being captured by Duke Leopold
407
00:25:02,450 --> 00:25:04,483
on his way home from the Crusades.
408
00:25:05,830 --> 00:25:09,630
The castle's importance
dwindled in more recent times
409
00:25:09,630 --> 00:25:12,610
and surrounding locals
pillaged much of the stone
410
00:25:12,610 --> 00:25:14,333
for their own use in the town.
411
00:25:16,120 --> 00:25:18,520
But soon, the building
came under protection
412
00:25:18,520 --> 00:25:22,180
and it was restored for
future generations to behold,
413
00:25:22,180 --> 00:25:25,770
becoming a symbol of how
generation after generation
414
00:25:25,770 --> 00:25:28,133
can protect the legacy of their culture.
415
00:25:29,370 --> 00:25:32,103
A fine place to end this journey.
416
00:25:34,326 --> 00:25:37,993
(reverent orchestral music)
33632
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