Original subtitles

(wind whooshing)

(inspirational orchestral music)

(bright orchestral music)

(gentle music)

- Our journey begins at the heart of Tuscany

in the hilltop city of Orvieto.

Soon after we'll discover the town of Civita de Bagnoregio,

a medieval village frozen in time.

As we continue, we'll explore

the spectacular Renaissance gardens of Vignanello.

After taking in the scenery of the Tuscan country side,

we'll make a brief stop at Pitigliano,

a town with a unique history of religious co-existence.

Finally, we'll fly over the Tyrrhenian Sea

to the famous island of Elba,

once the seat of Napoleon's personal empire.

(gentle guitar music) (birds twittering)

Surrounded on all sides

by the rolling green hills of Tuscany,

this imposing site is Orvieto.

Situated on a high plateau,

the ancient Etruscan's built this fortified city

with defense in mind.

But it's strategic position,

high up on the cliffs came at a price.

The volcanic rock proved so porous,

that early inhabitants had to construct

giant underground cisterns to collect rainfall.

Never ones to be out-classed, the Romans went on to build

a 62 meter well through the heart of the city,

to access a store of groundwater below.

An inscription on the well reads,

'What nature has denied, was added by the work of man'.

But it's a structure reaching up to the heavens

that dominates the city skyline,

Orvieto Cathedral. (sweeping choral music)

Completed in the 1500's

and estimated to have taken 300 years to build,

the complex celebrates the miraculous happenings

of a passing priest on his pilgrimage to Rome.

The priest, doubting that the bread of the Communion

was truly the body of Christ,

he attended a mass in Bolsena, a town nearby.

During his Communion, the bread started bleeding,

staining a woolen cloth he was wearing.

The Orvieto Cathedral was commissioned

to commemorate that event and give his stained relic

a permanent resting place.

(upbeat acoustic guitar music)

Just 20 kilometers South,

we come to the ancient hilltop village

of Civita de Bagnoregio.

This two and a half thousand year old settlement

is also built atop a plateau of volcanic stone

and was once an important center of the ancient world.

However, time and the forces of nature

have not been kind to the picturesque village.

The sheer cliffs which serve as the town's foundations,

are slowly eroding away, endangering the age-old buildings.

Only a single footbridge

connects Civita to the rest of the world

and passing through the gates of the city

has been likened to entering another dimension.

With a permanent population of only 15 residents,

many of whom are in their late 80's and 90's,

it has recently experienced a revival in tourism,

attracting those wishing to experience

a world trapped in time.

And as we travel a few valleys South,

we come to Soriano nel Cimino.

The town is best known for its annual chestnut festival,

which celebrates the people's united defense

against a Feudal Lord of nearby Vignanello

in the 15th century.

And speaking of Vignanello, here we are now.

A place internationally renowned

for its Renaissance architecture and gardens.

Overlooking the city, we can see a castle,

belonging to the Mariscotti,

an influential 16th century family.

(gentle classical music)

The first buildings here were erected by Benedictine monks

in the 9th century and used as a monastery.

But after it fell into the hands of the local nobility,

the castle's surroundings were transformed

into pleasure gardens. (birds chirping)

In fact, this is one of the best preserved,

Renaissance gardens in Italy, as it still belongs

to the direct descendants of the original occupants,

who have used the same techniques

of cultivation and maintenance for hundreds of years.

Around the central fountain are mixed hedges

of laurel, cherry bay and myrtle.

Water had to be bought and transported in ample quantities

from neighboring Porchiano, to supply this terrace garden

carved from the volcanic rock.

The water flows from the upper section through a series

of ornamental pools and passageways

to the bottom of the hill.

But spectacular villas and gardens

aren't unique to Vignanello.

A bit further South we come to Caprarola.

(gentle classical music)

And here is the towns unrivaled centerpiece,

the Villa Farnese, named after the noble family

that established it in 1515.

It is one of the finest examples

of Renaissance architecture in the world.

The structure owes its pentagonal shape

to its original design as a fortress.

In the years to follow, the building was reworked

into a permanent residence where ornament is used sparingly

to achieve proportion and harmony.

The approach to the villa from the town

is through a series of subterranean staircases,

carved from the volcanic rock beneath the foundations,

providing a quick escape in case of a siege.

As impressive as the building itself are the gardens.

Yet another significant example

of the unique Italian Renaissance style.

The architect, Vignola, chose the hide the main section

inside a wood of chestnut trees,

so guests could 'discover' the gardens

as they went on walks.

One of the many discoveries to be made is this casino,

designed as an outdoor area for guests

to eat and converse with their hosts.

And underneath, water flows downhill,

trickling through a series of fountains

depicting classical myths and creatures.

(birds chirping)

Italian gardens strive to harmonize human ingenuity

with the beauty of nature and the landscapes of Tuscany

gave the architects plenty of inspiration to work with.

(gentle classical music)

Also attributed to Vignola

are the villa and gardens of nearby Baniya.

The land here was originally bought by a Cardinal

and populated with game animals,

as hunting was a popular diversion

among clergy at the time.

Then in the mid 1500's, Vignola transformed the landscape

working with a theme of man's ability

to tame and live in harmony with nature.

Unlike other estates of the time,

the houses were small and unimposing,

so the owners wouldn't be criticized

for leading a lavish lifestyle.

A wide variety of water features uniting aesthetics

and mechanical perfection display

the engineering skills of the architect.

Some hidden fountains even showered unfortunate guests

who inadvertently triggered the mechanisms.

Indeed, water played a central role in these gardens,

as did classical mythology.

Something the Cardinals of the time

seem to be even more acquainted with than theology.

Many of the statues in the fountains

are made of the surrounding volcanic rock,

which darkens when wet, a deliberate aesthetic choice.

(birds chirping) (soothing classic music)

As we move West towards the sea,

we come to Montefiascone.

Situated beside Lake Bolsena, the city's highest point

was once the site of a grand Papal residence.

Now a ruin, it provided safe haven to a number of Popes,

whose elections were opposed

by the people of Rome in the 13th and 14th centuries.

Gradually the fortress, so rich in history,

fell into abandonment and became

a quarry for the construction of adjacent buildings.

And on the Western side of Lake Balsena,

we come to Valentano.

Like much of Tuscany during the Renaissance,

the city was under the rule of the powerful and influential

Farnese family in the 14th and 15th centuries,

when most of its fortifications and churches were built.

As we make way over Westward toward the ocean

we come to Pitigliano.

Like many of the other towns we visited,

it's built upon volcanic cliffs,

which have been chiseled over the years

into caves and townhouses.

But what makes Pitigliano stand out

is its notable Jewish history,

for which it has come to be known

as Italy's Middle Jerusalem.

When the Papal State set stringent

and oppressive laws against Jews in the 15th century,

the Hebrew population of Italy appealed

to independent duchies for refuge.

The aristocratic Orsini family, in charge of Pitigliano,

welcomed the refugees with open arms

and the new population soon established itself.

An extraordinary friendship thrived between the Christians

and Jews, so strong was their unity,

that the local Jewish contingent

were defended by the city's residents

against angry Christian mobs during the Napoleonic Wars.

And also during the anti-semitic fervor of World War II.

Sadly, the Jewish presence is now mostly historical.

(birds chirping)

And a mere eight kilometers away, we come to Savona,

a village with little more than a single street

running from the castle ruins at one end,

to the cathedral at the other.

Although quaint and unobtrusive in modern times,

this hilltop township was once the administrative seat

of the Lombards, a Germanic tribe that ruled Italy

after the fall of the Roman Empire.

(gentle classical harp music)

Beneath dramatic skies,

we spot Montemarano in the distance.

An ancient city,

still enclosed within its 15th century walls.

The coastline draws ever closer.

(seagulls calling)

And we reach the water of the intersection

of the Ligurian Sea to the North

and the Tyrrhenian Sea to the South.

And here we find the charming fishing village of Talamone,

looking out over the silver coast.

The settlement is named after the Greek hero Talamon,

uncle of Achilles who is said to have sailed here

from the Southern coast of Italy.

In fact, the entire stretch is resplendent

with such mythic history.

For the ancient Greeks believed that these cliffs,

rolling into the Tyrrhenian Sea, house the four winds,

kept by Aeolus, their master.

And this yacht still harnesses those winds

as it glides between the seven islands

of the Tuscan archipelago.

A mecca for divers, bird lovers and boaters,

these seaways have been frequented

by invaders and traders for thousands of years,

leaving enduring traces

of their various civilizations behind them.

It's said that when Venus was born out of the foaming waves,

the pearls of her headband were spread about the sea

and formed the seven island of this archipelago.

The largest and most famous of these is this one,

the Island of Elba.

Strategically placed along naval and trade routes,

it's been the object of conquest

for Mediterranean powers for millennia.

(birds chirping) (somber orchestral music)

But there was something else

that also drew invaders to Elba's shores,

its vast mineral wealth.

For the Etruscans and Romans,

the island represented an inexhaustible supply of iron

for their ever-expanding empires.

And situated on a large cape in the South is Capoliveri,

historically one of the island's more active mining centers.

But is it no longer for the iron

that foreigners are drawn here

but rather the ruolling, unspoiled countryside

and endless historical relics

spattered about across the hills.

As we move back towards the coastline

we come upon Porto Azzurro, also a settlement

originally famous for its wealth, minerals and mines.

But again, the main trade these days is tourism.

Its permanent population is around three and a half thousand

but that number jumps significantly

during the tourist season as boats full of Europeans

unload on these shores.

The city dates back to the 1600's

when the Spanish occupiers built a fort on the headland.

Thereafter it was named Longoni until after World War II

when the residents changed the name

to celebrate the bay's bright, azure waters.

Remains of Roman villas and thermal baths

and the ruins of ancient Christian hermitages

can be found in the areas around the dazzling port.

Across from Elba's mountainous interior,

on the island's Northern shore is Bagnaia,

renowned for the beauty of its beach.

(gentle orchestral music)

The town lies at the foot of Mount Volterraio,

the site of a fortress so formidable

that it was never conquered by any

of the island's many assailants.

It's said that the mountaintop fortress is haunted

with the ghosts of the many fallen competents

who fought for the town and that their voices

can still be heard echoing off the hillsides.

Perhaps that's why most visitors stick to the bay.

(gentle classical music) But if the ghosts of the past

are too harrowing, one can always catch the water taxi

further 'round the coast to what is perhaps,

Elba's most famous city, Portoferraio.

As part of Napoleon's conditions of surrender in 1814,

he was made the official Emperor of Elba

and given full reign over the island

with a contingent of one thousand men.

He chose this city as his seat of power

for his brief, ten month rule.

Upon his arrival, he plunged into action installing drains,

reforming the legal and education systems,

modernizing agriculture and building a road network

that remains in place today.

But still, this little empire wasn't enough for Napoleon

and in the early months of 1815, he began a new campaign

that would end with his ultimate defeat at Waterloo.

It's true that Napoleon's leadership

propelled Portoferraio into modernity,

making it the most important settlement on Elba.

But the city's beginnings as a thriving center

preceded the arrival of the French Emperor

by many hundreds of years.

It had always been rich in iron and the many rulers

were continually worried about protecting

the vast reserves situated nearby.

This fort, built on the highest hill,

was constructed in the mid 16th century by the Medici family

to guard against the dreaded Barbary Pirates

that patrolled the region for easy pickings.

The city was without doubt, the best fortified on Elba.

(gentle music) Almost all visitors

to the Tuscan Islands arrive by boat.

Although airports like this one do exist,

they're only open to small aircraft.

But it is this relative inaccessibility

that has kept the archipelago

so pristine after all these years.

Each of the seven islands is prized

for their unique climate, wildlife and history.

(gentle classical music)

Around 7,000 hectares of protected land

preserves the memory of ancient man's long traditions

of mining and the endless power plays and warfare

of more modern eras.

Almost every country in the region has laid a claim

to these strategic islands at least once;

Germany, England, France, Spain, Italy

and the countless bands of pirates,

struggled and vied for a chunk of these precious islands.

Indeed, all across this wilderness are relics

that give away its past.

Ancient dwellings of Christian hermits

are scattered about the rocks,

Roman bathhouses dot the mountain roads,

crumbling stone bastions and defensive towers

rise up out of rugged forests.

Elba's highest point is Mount Tabernacle,

whose jagged peak soars to over a thousand meters.

(sweeping orchestral music)

And following one of the mountains spurs,

takes us to the small hilltop village

of Poggio, overlooking the sea.

(gentle acoustic guitar music)

Tucked away in land, this place was safe from pirate attacks

for most of its history and has come to be highly regarded

as a rejuvenating and inspirational site.

Its reputation was cemented by Napoleon

who'd often travel up here to bathe in the healing waters

of the springs surrounding the village.

(birds chirping)

With narrow streets, not at all conducive to motor vehicles,

this town more than any other in Elba

has preserved its Medieval charm.

And following the shoulder of Mount Tabernacle

even further downwards, we come to the town of Marciana,

located on the Western end of the island.

It's perhaps most famous for its still standing,

ancient housing, which were built from the pink granite,

abundant in the area.

The enclosure of the marina here,

is of typical Italian style

and attracts hundreds of yachters every year

to maw during the Summer months.

(gentle classical music)

And the next bay to the West is the gulf of Procchio.

The area was important in Elba's past

as a manufacturing center which processed

the iron and copper mined in other regions.

Although lacking a marina,

this bay is also popular with tourists,

not least, because of its beautiful pebble beaches.

And at the head of one of the gulfs

most beautiful stretches of shoreline

stand the Hotel del Golfo.

Surrounded by blue waters on one side

and lush pine forest on the other.

It has its own private beach with a pier

for mooring small boats

as well as a large saltwater swimming pool.

It is said that in the distant, mythical past,

the small pebbles of the beach were all white

but when the argonauts stopped here

on their quest to find the golden fleece,

the sweat from their bodies stained the stone gray and blue,

the color they are today.

In fact, the entire Northern coast of Elba

is replete with white, sandy bays

and is with a little reluctance that we head off the island

and back toward the mainland.

(tugboat motors churning)

This stretch of water has been a bustling shipping lane

for thousands of years, with goods heading back and forth

between the mainland and the Tuscan islands.

Never before has the contrast between

the natural beauty of this region

and modern world been so stark.

(gentle orchestral music)

It's quite unlike our final destination,

a tiny, uninhabited island where a long abandoned building

almost appears to have grown from the rock itself.

The ancient tower, built by the kingdom of Pisa

hundreds of years ago on this limestone cliff

pays testament to the many forces that have shaped

the rich and diverse history of Tuscany,

making this mysterious island

the perfect place to end this journey.

(sweeping orchestral music)