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These are the user uploaded subtitles that are being translated: 1 00:00:00,000 --> 00:00:02,750 (wind whooshing) 2 00:00:06,685 --> 00:00:10,768 (inspirational orchestral music) 3 00:00:34,301 --> 00:00:37,801 (bright orchestral music) 4 00:01:07,941 --> 00:01:09,410 (gentle music) 5 00:01:09,410 --> 00:01:12,450 - Our journey begins at the heart of Tuscany 6 00:01:12,450 --> 00:01:14,943 in the hilltop city of Orvieto. 7 00:01:17,890 --> 00:01:21,610 Soon after we'll discover the town of Civita de Bagnoregio, 8 00:01:21,610 --> 00:01:24,293 a medieval village frozen in time. 9 00:01:27,980 --> 00:01:29,470 As we continue, we'll explore 10 00:01:29,470 --> 00:01:32,863 the spectacular Renaissance gardens of Vignanello. 11 00:01:35,920 --> 00:01:38,860 After taking in the scenery of the Tuscan country side, 12 00:01:38,860 --> 00:01:41,113 we'll make a brief stop at Pitigliano, 13 00:01:42,030 --> 00:01:45,423 a town with a unique history of religious co-existence. 14 00:01:47,330 --> 00:01:50,430 Finally, we'll fly over the Tyrrhenian Sea 15 00:01:50,430 --> 00:01:52,700 to the famous island of Elba, 16 00:01:52,700 --> 00:01:55,943 once the seat of Napoleon's personal empire. 17 00:01:59,211 --> 00:02:03,030 (gentle guitar music) (birds twittering) 18 00:02:03,030 --> 00:02:04,670 Surrounded on all sides 19 00:02:04,670 --> 00:02:07,060 by the rolling green hills of Tuscany, 20 00:02:07,060 --> 00:02:09,923 this imposing site is Orvieto. 21 00:02:12,910 --> 00:02:14,900 Situated on a high plateau, 22 00:02:14,900 --> 00:02:17,860 the ancient Etruscan's built this fortified city 23 00:02:17,860 --> 00:02:19,533 with defense in mind. 24 00:02:21,210 --> 00:02:22,550 But it's strategic position, 25 00:02:22,550 --> 00:02:25,860 high up on the cliffs came at a price. 26 00:02:25,860 --> 00:02:28,600 The volcanic rock proved so porous, 27 00:02:28,600 --> 00:02:30,640 that early inhabitants had to construct 28 00:02:30,640 --> 00:02:33,863 giant underground cisterns to collect rainfall. 29 00:02:35,260 --> 00:02:38,890 Never ones to be out-classed, the Romans went on to build 30 00:02:38,890 --> 00:02:42,180 a 62 meter well through the heart of the city, 31 00:02:42,180 --> 00:02:45,193 to access a store of groundwater below. 32 00:02:47,090 --> 00:02:49,241 An inscription on the well reads, 33 00:02:49,241 --> 00:02:54,097 'What nature has denied, was added by the work of man'. 34 00:02:57,320 --> 00:03:00,070 But it's a structure reaching up to the heavens 35 00:03:00,070 --> 00:03:02,173 that dominates the city skyline, 36 00:03:04,310 --> 00:03:08,420 Orvieto Cathedral. (sweeping choral music) 37 00:03:08,420 --> 00:03:10,280 Completed in the 1500's 38 00:03:10,280 --> 00:03:13,700 and estimated to have taken 300 years to build, 39 00:03:13,700 --> 00:03:16,590 the complex celebrates the miraculous happenings 40 00:03:16,590 --> 00:03:19,583 of a passing priest on his pilgrimage to Rome. 41 00:03:21,910 --> 00:03:24,450 The priest, doubting that the bread of the Communion 42 00:03:24,450 --> 00:03:26,750 was truly the body of Christ, 43 00:03:26,750 --> 00:03:30,303 he attended a mass in Bolsena, a town nearby. 44 00:03:31,930 --> 00:03:35,270 During his Communion, the bread started bleeding, 45 00:03:35,270 --> 00:03:37,763 staining a woolen cloth he was wearing. 46 00:03:41,040 --> 00:03:43,470 The Orvieto Cathedral was commissioned 47 00:03:43,470 --> 00:03:47,080 to commemorate that event and give his stained relic 48 00:03:47,080 --> 00:03:48,933 a permanent resting place. 49 00:03:54,187 --> 00:03:55,890 (upbeat acoustic guitar music) 50 00:03:55,890 --> 00:03:57,830 Just 20 kilometers South, 51 00:03:57,830 --> 00:04:00,210 we come to the ancient hilltop village 52 00:04:00,210 --> 00:04:03,170 of Civita de Bagnoregio. 53 00:04:05,150 --> 00:04:07,980 This two and a half thousand year old settlement 54 00:04:07,980 --> 00:04:12,010 is also built atop a plateau of volcanic stone 55 00:04:12,010 --> 00:04:15,313 and was once an important center of the ancient world. 56 00:04:16,930 --> 00:04:19,423 However, time and the forces of nature 57 00:04:19,423 --> 00:04:22,950 have not been kind to the picturesque village. 58 00:04:22,950 --> 00:04:26,490 The sheer cliffs which serve as the town's foundations, 59 00:04:26,490 --> 00:04:31,003 are slowly eroding away, endangering the age-old buildings. 60 00:04:32,300 --> 00:04:33,880 Only a single footbridge 61 00:04:33,880 --> 00:04:36,560 connects Civita to the rest of the world 62 00:04:36,560 --> 00:04:38,640 and passing through the gates of the city 63 00:04:38,640 --> 00:04:41,683 has been likened to entering another dimension. 64 00:04:44,470 --> 00:04:47,540 With a permanent population of only 15 residents, 65 00:04:47,540 --> 00:04:50,470 many of whom are in their late 80's and 90's, 66 00:04:50,470 --> 00:04:54,040 it has recently experienced a revival in tourism, 67 00:04:54,040 --> 00:04:56,500 attracting those wishing to experience 68 00:04:56,500 --> 00:04:58,573 a world trapped in time. 69 00:05:02,140 --> 00:05:04,350 And as we travel a few valleys South, 70 00:05:04,350 --> 00:05:06,683 we come to Soriano nel Cimino. 71 00:05:08,490 --> 00:05:11,820 The town is best known for its annual chestnut festival, 72 00:05:11,820 --> 00:05:14,550 which celebrates the people's united defense 73 00:05:14,550 --> 00:05:17,799 against a Feudal Lord of nearby Vignanello 74 00:05:17,799 --> 00:05:19,713 in the 15th century. 75 00:05:23,050 --> 00:05:26,010 And speaking of Vignanello, here we are now. 76 00:05:26,010 --> 00:05:27,800 A place internationally renowned 77 00:05:27,800 --> 00:05:30,463 for its Renaissance architecture and gardens. 78 00:05:31,970 --> 00:05:34,460 Overlooking the city, we can see a castle, 79 00:05:34,460 --> 00:05:36,550 belonging to the Mariscotti, 80 00:05:36,550 --> 00:05:39,142 an influential 16th century family. 81 00:05:39,142 --> 00:05:43,160 (gentle classical music) 82 00:05:43,160 --> 00:05:46,540 The first buildings here were erected by Benedictine monks 83 00:05:46,540 --> 00:05:49,453 in the 9th century and used as a monastery. 84 00:05:52,930 --> 00:05:55,740 But after it fell into the hands of the local nobility, 85 00:05:55,740 --> 00:05:58,190 the castle's surroundings were transformed 86 00:05:58,190 --> 00:06:01,483 into pleasure gardens. (birds chirping) 87 00:06:02,840 --> 00:06:04,904 In fact, this is one of the best preserved, 88 00:06:04,904 --> 00:06:08,073 Renaissance gardens in Italy, as it still belongs 89 00:06:08,073 --> 00:06:11,820 to the direct descendants of the original occupants, 90 00:06:11,820 --> 00:06:13,500 who have used the same techniques 91 00:06:13,500 --> 00:06:17,023 of cultivation and maintenance for hundreds of years. 92 00:06:18,700 --> 00:06:21,410 Around the central fountain are mixed hedges 93 00:06:21,410 --> 00:06:23,623 of laurel, cherry bay and myrtle. 94 00:06:25,820 --> 00:06:29,550 Water had to be bought and transported in ample quantities 95 00:06:29,550 --> 00:06:33,280 from neighboring Porchiano, to supply this terrace garden 96 00:06:33,280 --> 00:06:35,443 carved from the volcanic rock. 97 00:06:39,190 --> 00:06:42,150 The water flows from the upper section through a series 98 00:06:42,150 --> 00:06:44,740 of ornamental pools and passageways 99 00:06:44,740 --> 00:06:46,193 to the bottom of the hill. 100 00:06:51,910 --> 00:06:53,960 But spectacular villas and gardens 101 00:06:53,960 --> 00:06:55,900 aren't unique to Vignanello. 102 00:06:57,650 --> 00:07:00,683 A bit further South we come to Caprarola. 103 00:07:00,683 --> 00:07:03,370 (gentle classical music) 104 00:07:03,370 --> 00:07:06,770 And here is the towns unrivaled centerpiece, 105 00:07:06,770 --> 00:07:10,420 the Villa Farnese, named after the noble family 106 00:07:10,420 --> 00:07:13,570 that established it in 1515. 107 00:07:13,570 --> 00:07:15,180 It is one of the finest examples 108 00:07:15,180 --> 00:07:17,953 of Renaissance architecture in the world. 109 00:07:20,290 --> 00:07:22,840 The structure owes its pentagonal shape 110 00:07:22,840 --> 00:07:25,173 to its original design as a fortress. 111 00:07:27,670 --> 00:07:30,100 In the years to follow, the building was reworked 112 00:07:30,100 --> 00:07:34,240 into a permanent residence where ornament is used sparingly 113 00:07:34,240 --> 00:07:36,713 to achieve proportion and harmony. 114 00:07:37,910 --> 00:07:40,000 The approach to the villa from the town 115 00:07:40,000 --> 00:07:42,750 is through a series of subterranean staircases, 116 00:07:42,750 --> 00:07:46,520 carved from the volcanic rock beneath the foundations, 117 00:07:46,520 --> 00:07:49,513 providing a quick escape in case of a siege. 118 00:07:51,690 --> 00:07:55,310 As impressive as the building itself are the gardens. 119 00:07:55,310 --> 00:07:57,370 Yet another significant example 120 00:07:57,370 --> 00:08:00,163 of the unique Italian Renaissance style. 121 00:08:01,210 --> 00:08:05,090 The architect, Vignola, chose the hide the main section 122 00:08:05,090 --> 00:08:07,350 inside a wood of chestnut trees, 123 00:08:07,350 --> 00:08:10,240 so guests could 'discover' the gardens 124 00:08:10,240 --> 00:08:11,653 as they went on walks. 125 00:08:12,940 --> 00:08:16,810 One of the many discoveries to be made is this casino, 126 00:08:16,810 --> 00:08:19,010 designed as an outdoor area for guests 127 00:08:19,010 --> 00:08:21,653 to eat and converse with their hosts. 128 00:08:22,720 --> 00:08:25,840 And underneath, water flows downhill, 129 00:08:25,840 --> 00:08:28,010 trickling through a series of fountains 130 00:08:28,010 --> 00:08:30,596 depicting classical myths and creatures. 131 00:08:30,596 --> 00:08:34,000 (birds chirping) 132 00:08:34,000 --> 00:08:37,850 Italian gardens strive to harmonize human ingenuity 133 00:08:37,850 --> 00:08:41,660 with the beauty of nature and the landscapes of Tuscany 134 00:08:41,660 --> 00:08:44,506 gave the architects plenty of inspiration to work with. 135 00:08:44,506 --> 00:08:47,960 (gentle classical music) 136 00:08:47,960 --> 00:08:49,777 Also attributed to Vignola 137 00:08:49,777 --> 00:08:52,497 are the villa and gardens of nearby Baniya. 138 00:08:54,550 --> 00:08:57,400 The land here was originally bought by a Cardinal 139 00:08:57,400 --> 00:08:59,590 and populated with game animals, 140 00:08:59,590 --> 00:09:02,100 as hunting was a popular diversion 141 00:09:02,100 --> 00:09:03,823 among clergy at the time. 142 00:09:05,510 --> 00:09:09,740 Then in the mid 1500's, Vignola transformed the landscape 143 00:09:09,740 --> 00:09:11,780 working with a theme of man's ability 144 00:09:11,780 --> 00:09:14,193 to tame and live in harmony with nature. 145 00:09:18,750 --> 00:09:20,970 Unlike other estates of the time, 146 00:09:20,970 --> 00:09:23,650 the houses were small and unimposing, 147 00:09:23,650 --> 00:09:25,610 so the owners wouldn't be criticized 148 00:09:25,610 --> 00:09:27,593 for leading a lavish lifestyle. 149 00:09:31,040 --> 00:09:34,620 A wide variety of water features uniting aesthetics 150 00:09:34,620 --> 00:09:36,900 and mechanical perfection display 151 00:09:36,900 --> 00:09:39,880 the engineering skills of the architect. 152 00:09:39,880 --> 00:09:44,010 Some hidden fountains even showered unfortunate guests 153 00:09:44,010 --> 00:09:46,573 who inadvertently triggered the mechanisms. 154 00:09:49,440 --> 00:09:52,970 Indeed, water played a central role in these gardens, 155 00:09:52,970 --> 00:09:55,420 as did classical mythology. 156 00:09:55,420 --> 00:09:57,460 Something the Cardinals of the time 157 00:09:57,460 --> 00:10:00,683 seem to be even more acquainted with than theology. 158 00:10:01,580 --> 00:10:03,210 Many of the statues in the fountains 159 00:10:03,210 --> 00:10:06,120 are made of the surrounding volcanic rock, 160 00:10:06,120 --> 00:10:10,410 which darkens when wet, a deliberate aesthetic choice. 161 00:10:10,410 --> 00:10:14,730 (birds chirping) (soothing classic music) 162 00:10:14,730 --> 00:10:16,830 As we move West towards the sea, 163 00:10:16,830 --> 00:10:18,693 we come to Montefiascone. 164 00:10:23,470 --> 00:10:27,520 Situated beside Lake Bolsena, the city's highest point 165 00:10:27,520 --> 00:10:30,453 was once the site of a grand Papal residence. 166 00:10:32,990 --> 00:10:37,020 Now a ruin, it provided safe haven to a number of Popes, 167 00:10:37,020 --> 00:10:38,590 whose elections were opposed 168 00:10:38,590 --> 00:10:42,423 by the people of Rome in the 13th and 14th centuries. 169 00:10:45,080 --> 00:10:48,600 Gradually the fortress, so rich in history, 170 00:10:48,600 --> 00:10:50,500 fell into abandonment and became 171 00:10:50,500 --> 00:10:53,803 a quarry for the construction of adjacent buildings. 172 00:10:57,060 --> 00:10:59,800 And on the Western side of Lake Balsena, 173 00:10:59,800 --> 00:11:01,203 we come to Valentano. 174 00:11:07,320 --> 00:11:09,830 Like much of Tuscany during the Renaissance, 175 00:11:09,830 --> 00:11:12,940 the city was under the rule of the powerful and influential 176 00:11:12,940 --> 00:11:16,600 Farnese family in the 14th and 15th centuries, 177 00:11:16,600 --> 00:11:19,793 when most of its fortifications and churches were built. 178 00:11:27,760 --> 00:11:31,050 As we make way over Westward toward the ocean 179 00:11:31,050 --> 00:11:32,203 we come to Pitigliano. 180 00:11:38,200 --> 00:11:40,380 Like many of the other towns we visited, 181 00:11:40,380 --> 00:11:42,530 it's built upon volcanic cliffs, 182 00:11:42,530 --> 00:11:44,490 which have been chiseled over the years 183 00:11:44,490 --> 00:11:46,503 into caves and townhouses. 184 00:11:47,720 --> 00:11:50,220 But what makes Pitigliano stand out 185 00:11:50,220 --> 00:11:52,730 is its notable Jewish history, 186 00:11:52,730 --> 00:11:54,530 for which it has come to be known 187 00:11:54,530 --> 00:11:56,453 as Italy's Middle Jerusalem. 188 00:11:58,530 --> 00:12:00,440 When the Papal State set stringent 189 00:12:00,440 --> 00:12:03,830 and oppressive laws against Jews in the 15th century, 190 00:12:03,830 --> 00:12:06,500 the Hebrew population of Italy appealed 191 00:12:06,500 --> 00:12:09,063 to independent duchies for refuge. 192 00:12:11,010 --> 00:12:15,100 The aristocratic Orsini family, in charge of Pitigliano, 193 00:12:15,100 --> 00:12:17,920 welcomed the refugees with open arms 194 00:12:17,920 --> 00:12:20,863 and the new population soon established itself. 195 00:12:21,940 --> 00:12:25,500 An extraordinary friendship thrived between the Christians 196 00:12:25,500 --> 00:12:28,530 and Jews, so strong was their unity, 197 00:12:28,530 --> 00:12:30,500 that the local Jewish contingent 198 00:12:30,500 --> 00:12:32,580 were defended by the city's residents 199 00:12:32,580 --> 00:12:37,160 against angry Christian mobs during the Napoleonic Wars. 200 00:12:37,160 --> 00:12:40,773 And also during the anti-semitic fervor of World War II. 201 00:12:42,130 --> 00:12:45,943 Sadly, the Jewish presence is now mostly historical. 202 00:12:50,758 --> 00:12:52,470 (birds chirping) 203 00:12:52,470 --> 00:12:56,390 And a mere eight kilometers away, we come to Savona, 204 00:12:56,390 --> 00:12:59,000 a village with little more than a single street 205 00:12:59,000 --> 00:13:01,253 running from the castle ruins at one end, 206 00:13:02,100 --> 00:13:03,893 to the cathedral at the other. 207 00:13:06,030 --> 00:13:08,910 Although quaint and unobtrusive in modern times, 208 00:13:08,910 --> 00:13:12,150 this hilltop township was once the administrative seat 209 00:13:12,150 --> 00:13:16,100 of the Lombards, a Germanic tribe that ruled Italy 210 00:13:16,100 --> 00:13:18,113 after the fall of the Roman Empire. 211 00:13:20,921 --> 00:13:24,311 (gentle classical harp music) 212 00:13:24,311 --> 00:13:26,300 Beneath dramatic skies, 213 00:13:26,300 --> 00:13:29,333 we spot Montemarano in the distance. 214 00:13:31,600 --> 00:13:32,810 An ancient city, 215 00:13:32,810 --> 00:13:36,033 still enclosed within its 15th century walls. 216 00:13:37,930 --> 00:13:40,653 The coastline draws ever closer. 217 00:13:44,612 --> 00:13:47,320 (seagulls calling) 218 00:13:47,320 --> 00:13:49,350 And we reach the water of the intersection 219 00:13:49,350 --> 00:13:51,570 of the Ligurian Sea to the North 220 00:13:51,570 --> 00:13:53,693 and the Tyrrhenian Sea to the South. 221 00:13:56,470 --> 00:14:00,120 And here we find the charming fishing village of Talamone, 222 00:14:00,120 --> 00:14:02,423 looking out over the silver coast. 223 00:14:06,170 --> 00:14:09,470 The settlement is named after the Greek hero Talamon, 224 00:14:09,470 --> 00:14:12,560 uncle of Achilles who is said to have sailed here 225 00:14:12,560 --> 00:14:14,283 from the Southern coast of Italy. 226 00:14:19,320 --> 00:14:22,140 In fact, the entire stretch is resplendent 227 00:14:22,140 --> 00:14:23,713 with such mythic history. 228 00:14:25,350 --> 00:14:28,440 For the ancient Greeks believed that these cliffs, 229 00:14:28,440 --> 00:14:32,250 rolling into the Tyrrhenian Sea, house the four winds, 230 00:14:32,250 --> 00:14:34,633 kept by Aeolus, their master. 231 00:14:39,230 --> 00:14:42,110 And this yacht still harnesses those winds 232 00:14:42,110 --> 00:14:44,330 as it glides between the seven islands 233 00:14:44,330 --> 00:14:46,113 of the Tuscan archipelago. 234 00:14:47,680 --> 00:14:50,730 A mecca for divers, bird lovers and boaters, 235 00:14:50,730 --> 00:14:52,540 these seaways have been frequented 236 00:14:52,540 --> 00:14:56,220 by invaders and traders for thousands of years, 237 00:14:56,220 --> 00:14:57,930 leaving enduring traces 238 00:14:57,930 --> 00:15:00,253 of their various civilizations behind them. 239 00:15:04,250 --> 00:15:08,510 It's said that when Venus was born out of the foaming waves, 240 00:15:08,510 --> 00:15:12,000 the pearls of her headband were spread about the sea 241 00:15:12,000 --> 00:15:15,063 and formed the seven island of this archipelago. 242 00:15:17,870 --> 00:15:21,040 The largest and most famous of these is this one, 243 00:15:21,040 --> 00:15:22,473 the Island of Elba. 244 00:15:23,430 --> 00:15:26,500 Strategically placed along naval and trade routes, 245 00:15:26,500 --> 00:15:28,320 it's been the object of conquest 246 00:15:28,320 --> 00:15:31,193 for Mediterranean powers for millennia. 247 00:15:31,193 --> 00:15:35,100 (birds chirping) (somber orchestral music) 248 00:15:35,100 --> 00:15:36,400 But there was something else 249 00:15:36,400 --> 00:15:39,183 that also drew invaders to Elba's shores, 250 00:15:40,950 --> 00:15:42,963 its vast mineral wealth. 251 00:15:44,760 --> 00:15:46,660 For the Etruscans and Romans, 252 00:15:46,660 --> 00:15:50,240 the island represented an inexhaustible supply of iron 253 00:15:50,240 --> 00:15:52,503 for their ever-expanding empires. 254 00:15:53,960 --> 00:15:58,140 And situated on a large cape in the South is Capoliveri, 255 00:15:58,140 --> 00:16:01,763 historically one of the island's more active mining centers. 256 00:16:06,320 --> 00:16:08,270 But is it no longer for the iron 257 00:16:08,270 --> 00:16:10,160 that foreigners are drawn here 258 00:16:10,160 --> 00:16:13,190 but rather the ruolling, unspoiled countryside 259 00:16:13,190 --> 00:16:15,330 and endless historical relics 260 00:16:15,330 --> 00:16:17,723 spattered about across the hills. 261 00:16:20,420 --> 00:16:22,720 As we move back towards the coastline 262 00:16:22,720 --> 00:16:26,230 we come upon Porto Azzurro, also a settlement 263 00:16:26,230 --> 00:16:29,513 originally famous for its wealth, minerals and mines. 264 00:16:31,730 --> 00:16:35,920 But again, the main trade these days is tourism. 265 00:16:35,920 --> 00:16:39,890 Its permanent population is around three and a half thousand 266 00:16:39,890 --> 00:16:41,650 but that number jumps significantly 267 00:16:41,650 --> 00:16:45,070 during the tourist season as boats full of Europeans 268 00:16:45,070 --> 00:16:46,563 unload on these shores. 269 00:16:47,970 --> 00:16:50,710 The city dates back to the 1600's 270 00:16:50,710 --> 00:16:53,633 when the Spanish occupiers built a fort on the headland. 271 00:16:54,610 --> 00:16:58,950 Thereafter it was named Longoni until after World War II 272 00:16:58,950 --> 00:17:00,820 when the residents changed the name 273 00:17:00,820 --> 00:17:03,823 to celebrate the bay's bright, azure waters. 274 00:17:07,170 --> 00:17:10,090 Remains of Roman villas and thermal baths 275 00:17:10,090 --> 00:17:12,830 and the ruins of ancient Christian hermitages 276 00:17:12,830 --> 00:17:16,073 can be found in the areas around the dazzling port. 277 00:17:21,180 --> 00:17:23,650 Across from Elba's mountainous interior, 278 00:17:23,650 --> 00:17:26,970 on the island's Northern shore is Bagnaia, 279 00:17:26,970 --> 00:17:29,260 renowned for the beauty of its beach. 280 00:17:29,260 --> 00:17:32,046 (gentle orchestral music) 281 00:17:32,046 --> 00:17:34,970 The town lies at the foot of Mount Volterraio, 282 00:17:34,970 --> 00:17:37,080 the site of a fortress so formidable 283 00:17:37,080 --> 00:17:39,070 that it was never conquered by any 284 00:17:39,070 --> 00:17:41,083 of the island's many assailants. 285 00:17:42,670 --> 00:17:45,790 It's said that the mountaintop fortress is haunted 286 00:17:45,790 --> 00:17:48,140 with the ghosts of the many fallen competents 287 00:17:48,140 --> 00:17:51,880 who fought for the town and that their voices 288 00:17:51,880 --> 00:17:54,883 can still be heard echoing off the hillsides. 289 00:17:57,130 --> 00:18:00,943 Perhaps that's why most visitors stick to the bay. 290 00:18:02,425 --> 00:18:05,930 (gentle classical music) But if the ghosts of the past 291 00:18:05,930 --> 00:18:08,980 are too harrowing, one can always catch the water taxi 292 00:18:08,980 --> 00:18:11,480 further 'round the coast to what is perhaps, 293 00:18:11,480 --> 00:18:14,933 Elba's most famous city, Portoferraio. 294 00:18:17,980 --> 00:18:21,910 As part of Napoleon's conditions of surrender in 1814, 295 00:18:21,910 --> 00:18:24,680 he was made the official Emperor of Elba 296 00:18:24,680 --> 00:18:27,160 and given full reign over the island 297 00:18:27,160 --> 00:18:29,393 with a contingent of one thousand men. 298 00:18:30,250 --> 00:18:33,110 He chose this city as his seat of power 299 00:18:33,110 --> 00:18:35,183 for his brief, ten month rule. 300 00:18:37,420 --> 00:18:42,160 Upon his arrival, he plunged into action installing drains, 301 00:18:42,160 --> 00:18:45,040 reforming the legal and education systems, 302 00:18:45,040 --> 00:18:48,700 modernizing agriculture and building a road network 303 00:18:48,700 --> 00:18:50,653 that remains in place today. 304 00:18:54,240 --> 00:18:58,000 But still, this little empire wasn't enough for Napoleon 305 00:18:58,000 --> 00:19:01,930 and in the early months of 1815, he began a new campaign 306 00:19:01,930 --> 00:19:04,863 that would end with his ultimate defeat at Waterloo. 307 00:19:11,560 --> 00:19:13,540 It's true that Napoleon's leadership 308 00:19:13,540 --> 00:19:16,820 propelled Portoferraio into modernity, 309 00:19:16,820 --> 00:19:19,283 making it the most important settlement on Elba. 310 00:19:21,850 --> 00:19:24,440 But the city's beginnings as a thriving center 311 00:19:24,440 --> 00:19:26,690 preceded the arrival of the French Emperor 312 00:19:26,690 --> 00:19:28,503 by many hundreds of years. 313 00:19:30,750 --> 00:19:33,950 It had always been rich in iron and the many rulers 314 00:19:33,950 --> 00:19:36,030 were continually worried about protecting 315 00:19:36,030 --> 00:19:38,933 the vast reserves situated nearby. 316 00:19:43,810 --> 00:19:46,200 This fort, built on the highest hill, 317 00:19:46,200 --> 00:19:50,400 was constructed in the mid 16th century by the Medici family 318 00:19:50,400 --> 00:19:53,110 to guard against the dreaded Barbary Pirates 319 00:19:53,110 --> 00:19:56,520 that patrolled the region for easy pickings. 320 00:19:56,520 --> 00:20:00,513 The city was without doubt, the best fortified on Elba. 321 00:20:09,158 --> 00:20:11,630 (gentle music) Almost all visitors 322 00:20:11,630 --> 00:20:14,133 to the Tuscan Islands arrive by boat. 323 00:20:15,560 --> 00:20:18,140 Although airports like this one do exist, 324 00:20:18,140 --> 00:20:20,900 they're only open to small aircraft. 325 00:20:20,900 --> 00:20:23,640 But it is this relative inaccessibility 326 00:20:23,640 --> 00:20:25,100 that has kept the archipelago 327 00:20:25,100 --> 00:20:27,763 so pristine after all these years. 328 00:20:33,210 --> 00:20:35,620 Each of the seven islands is prized 329 00:20:35,620 --> 00:20:38,577 for their unique climate, wildlife and history. 330 00:20:38,577 --> 00:20:42,610 (gentle classical music) 331 00:20:42,610 --> 00:20:45,610 Around 7,000 hectares of protected land 332 00:20:45,610 --> 00:20:48,540 preserves the memory of ancient man's long traditions 333 00:20:48,540 --> 00:20:52,070 of mining and the endless power plays and warfare 334 00:20:52,070 --> 00:20:54,040 of more modern eras. 335 00:20:54,040 --> 00:20:57,110 Almost every country in the region has laid a claim 336 00:20:57,110 --> 00:21:00,240 to these strategic islands at least once; 337 00:21:00,240 --> 00:21:04,520 Germany, England, France, Spain, Italy 338 00:21:04,520 --> 00:21:06,660 and the countless bands of pirates, 339 00:21:06,660 --> 00:21:10,563 struggled and vied for a chunk of these precious islands. 340 00:21:11,610 --> 00:21:14,870 Indeed, all across this wilderness are relics 341 00:21:14,870 --> 00:21:16,403 that give away its past. 342 00:21:19,020 --> 00:21:21,220 Ancient dwellings of Christian hermits 343 00:21:21,220 --> 00:21:23,250 are scattered about the rocks, 344 00:21:23,250 --> 00:21:26,377 Roman bathhouses dot the mountain roads, 345 00:21:26,377 --> 00:21:29,720 crumbling stone bastions and defensive towers 346 00:21:29,720 --> 00:21:31,873 rise up out of rugged forests. 347 00:21:33,330 --> 00:21:36,510 Elba's highest point is Mount Tabernacle, 348 00:21:36,510 --> 00:21:40,128 whose jagged peak soars to over a thousand meters. 349 00:21:40,128 --> 00:21:43,795 (sweeping orchestral music) 350 00:21:45,280 --> 00:21:47,670 And following one of the mountains spurs, 351 00:21:47,670 --> 00:21:49,910 takes us to the small hilltop village 352 00:21:49,910 --> 00:21:52,333 of Poggio, overlooking the sea. 353 00:21:55,997 --> 00:21:58,480 (gentle acoustic guitar music) 354 00:21:58,480 --> 00:22:02,190 Tucked away in land, this place was safe from pirate attacks 355 00:22:02,190 --> 00:22:06,150 for most of its history and has come to be highly regarded 356 00:22:06,150 --> 00:22:08,833 as a rejuvenating and inspirational site. 357 00:22:10,970 --> 00:22:13,560 Its reputation was cemented by Napoleon 358 00:22:13,560 --> 00:22:16,930 who'd often travel up here to bathe in the healing waters 359 00:22:16,930 --> 00:22:19,167 of the springs surrounding the village. 360 00:22:19,167 --> 00:22:22,670 (birds chirping) 361 00:22:22,670 --> 00:22:26,670 With narrow streets, not at all conducive to motor vehicles, 362 00:22:26,670 --> 00:22:29,100 this town more than any other in Elba 363 00:22:29,100 --> 00:22:31,253 has preserved its Medieval charm. 364 00:22:35,170 --> 00:22:37,300 And following the shoulder of Mount Tabernacle 365 00:22:37,300 --> 00:22:41,250 even further downwards, we come to the town of Marciana, 366 00:22:41,250 --> 00:22:43,653 located on the Western end of the island. 367 00:22:45,860 --> 00:22:48,430 It's perhaps most famous for its still standing, 368 00:22:48,430 --> 00:22:51,600 ancient housing, which were built from the pink granite, 369 00:22:51,600 --> 00:22:53,093 abundant in the area. 370 00:22:55,100 --> 00:22:57,160 The enclosure of the marina here, 371 00:22:57,160 --> 00:22:59,210 is of typical Italian style 372 00:22:59,210 --> 00:23:02,280 and attracts hundreds of yachters every year 373 00:23:02,280 --> 00:23:04,163 to maw during the Summer months. 374 00:23:08,397 --> 00:23:11,249 (gentle classical music) 375 00:23:11,249 --> 00:23:16,249 And the next bay to the West is the gulf of Procchio. 376 00:23:16,450 --> 00:23:18,708 The area was important in Elba's past 377 00:23:18,708 --> 00:23:21,325 as a manufacturing center which processed 378 00:23:21,325 --> 00:23:24,523 the iron and copper mined in other regions. 379 00:23:26,470 --> 00:23:28,180 Although lacking a marina, 380 00:23:28,180 --> 00:23:31,000 this bay is also popular with tourists, 381 00:23:31,000 --> 00:23:34,073 not least, because of its beautiful pebble beaches. 382 00:23:35,380 --> 00:23:37,000 And at the head of one of the gulfs 383 00:23:37,000 --> 00:23:39,460 most beautiful stretches of shoreline 384 00:23:39,460 --> 00:23:42,110 stand the Hotel del Golfo. 385 00:23:42,110 --> 00:23:44,680 Surrounded by blue waters on one side 386 00:23:44,680 --> 00:23:47,480 and lush pine forest on the other. 387 00:23:47,480 --> 00:23:50,040 It has its own private beach with a pier 388 00:23:50,040 --> 00:23:51,790 for mooring small boats 389 00:23:51,790 --> 00:23:54,223 as well as a large saltwater swimming pool. 390 00:23:56,210 --> 00:23:59,410 It is said that in the distant, mythical past, 391 00:23:59,410 --> 00:24:02,280 the small pebbles of the beach were all white 392 00:24:02,280 --> 00:24:04,030 but when the argonauts stopped here 393 00:24:04,030 --> 00:24:06,550 on their quest to find the golden fleece, 394 00:24:06,550 --> 00:24:11,040 the sweat from their bodies stained the stone gray and blue, 395 00:24:11,040 --> 00:24:12,823 the color they are today. 396 00:24:16,600 --> 00:24:19,600 In fact, the entire Northern coast of Elba 397 00:24:19,600 --> 00:24:22,680 is replete with white, sandy bays 398 00:24:22,680 --> 00:24:26,010 and is with a little reluctance that we head off the island 399 00:24:26,010 --> 00:24:27,573 and back toward the mainland. 400 00:24:29,325 --> 00:24:31,780 (tugboat motors churning) 401 00:24:31,780 --> 00:24:34,760 This stretch of water has been a bustling shipping lane 402 00:24:34,760 --> 00:24:38,305 for thousands of years, with goods heading back and forth 403 00:24:38,305 --> 00:24:41,313 between the mainland and the Tuscan islands. 404 00:24:45,060 --> 00:24:47,290 Never before has the contrast between 405 00:24:47,290 --> 00:24:49,330 the natural beauty of this region 406 00:24:49,330 --> 00:24:52,735 and modern world been so stark. 407 00:24:52,735 --> 00:24:54,860 (gentle orchestral music) 408 00:24:54,860 --> 00:24:57,890 It's quite unlike our final destination, 409 00:24:57,890 --> 00:25:02,400 a tiny, uninhabited island where a long abandoned building 410 00:25:02,400 --> 00:25:05,323 almost appears to have grown from the rock itself. 411 00:25:11,810 --> 00:25:14,360 The ancient tower, built by the kingdom of Pisa 412 00:25:14,360 --> 00:25:17,150 hundreds of years ago on this limestone cliff 413 00:25:17,150 --> 00:25:20,010 pays testament to the many forces that have shaped 414 00:25:20,010 --> 00:25:22,645 the rich and diverse history of Tuscany, 415 00:25:22,645 --> 00:25:26,340 making this mysterious island 416 00:25:26,340 --> 00:25:28,953 the perfect place to end this journey. 417 00:25:34,245 --> 00:25:37,912 (sweeping orchestral music) 33564

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