Original subtitles

(Theme music playing)

Our journey begins in Portugal's coastal region,

at the Tagus River estuary.

From there we travel along,

Costa da Caparica,

Europe's longest beach.

South along the coast

is the Sado River Estuary,

famous for it's diverse wildlife.

We then head inland,

through the white marble villages

and cork groves of the Alentejo plains

to Evora and it's Roman Temple.

We explore the ancient castles

of Arraiolos and Evoramonte,

before moving on to the marble quaries

of Vila Vicosa.

Finally, we trace the border with Spain,

concluding our journey

at the garrison city of Elvas,

and it's historic star shaped forts.

From the Celts and the Romans

to the Moors and the Spanish,

each has left an indelible mark

on this ancient land.

But Portugal has withstood the test of time.

This is the mouth of the Tagus river,

where it meets the Atlantic ocean.

The Tagus is the longest river

on the Iberian Peninsula

traveling 1038 kilometers from Spain

across Portugal, to the ocean here,

where it has created a vast marine environment

known as the Tagus river estuary.

On the southern bank,

is a tiny fishing village of Cova do Vapor.

Since the 1940's,

it's inhabitants have been plagued

with coastal erosion and rising sea levels.

It's forced them to relocate a number of times.

Resulting in a charming hotch-potch

of wooden houses, built around a maze

of narrow winding streets.

Stretching thirty kilometers,

this is Europe's longest continuous beach,

Costa da Caparica.

The name which means rich cape,

comes from a local folktale

about an old woman's surprising generosity.

She is said to have bequethed gold coins

sown into her cape to the town,

for the construction of a church.

Like its neighbour,

Costa da Caparica has also suffered

significant coastal erosion.

And so authorities have implemented new policies

in an effort to curb the loss of shoreline

and protect the vulnerable eco-system.

In recent years, helicopter tours have become

increasingly popular with tourists

who wish to enjoy

the spectacular beauty of Portugal from above.

This Hughes 500

is one of ninety civil helicopters

currently registered in the country.

Development of these versatile and lightweight

helicopters dates back to the mid 1950's,

and has played a critical role

for the United States in both the Vietnam

and Gulf Wars.

The Hughes 500 is now popular with civilians

but has also proven useful

for agricultural and police work.

Looking over rugged hills of the

Arrabida Natural park,

we catch our first glimpse

of the Troia Peninsula.

For thousands of years,

sediment deposited by the Sabo river

has mingled with sand washed ashore

by the Atlantic ocean

to form this bit of land.

Once an island, settled by the Romans

and named Acala,

It is rich with archeological treasures.

Excavations begun in the 1850's

uncovering the first century turn of Ceto briga.

Although fishing has been

the primary industry for centuries,

surrounding waters currently entertain

increasing numbers of recreational boaters

due to a sharp rise in tourism.

But despite its popularity,

Troia has succeeded in finding

a modern and delicate balance

between tourist leisure and natural beauty.

Across the estuary, we find Setubal,

Portugal's fourth largest city,

and third largest port.

Once a fishing village

that thrived on sardine canneries,

it is now filled

with all the trappings of a summer resort.

But there are still visible ties to its past.

Like the mighty 16th century castle

of Saint Philip,

built to defend the Armada

from an English attack.

Since 2002, Setubal has been listed

as one of the 30 most beautiful bays

in the world.

Our next stop, the Sado River estuary

is an official nature reserve

and special protection area for birds.

The Reserve boundary covers

more than 23,000 hectares,

and over 3000 species of wildlife

have been recorded.

Including a pod of bottlenose dolphins

known to inhabit the coastal lagoon.

Rice fields and fisheries are prevalent

around the village of Santa Catarina,

which has long been an important agricultural center

for the Setubal region.

Our journey now leads us

to the tiny village of Capela

Nestled deep in the Alentejo region.

Whitewashed marble villages like this one

are found throughout the Portuguese countryside.

The lime whitewash acts as an insect repellent

and a disinfectant.

It also creates a seal that preserves the stone

and protects it from the weather.

It produces a slight surface glow,

as light reflects off the calcite crystals

found in the lime.

Its glow adds to the luster and beauty

of Portugal's traditional white marble towns

and villages.

Vast wheat fields and rolling plains

stretch across the Alentejo region.

Groves of olive and cork trees

are also plentiful.

The cork oak is an evergreen

found in parts of Africa and Southern Europe.

Because the trees are so abundant here,

half of the world's cork is produced in Portugal.

Each tree can be harvested every nine years,

with a new layer of cork beginning to form

immediately after harvest.

They are protected in Portugal

and it is illegal to cut them down

without permission from the forestry department.

Cork wood is able to withstand harsher conditions

than other types of timber.

During the 14th century,

Portuguese explorers used it

as a ship building material

for its buoyancy and durability.

But it's a 17th century English scientist

Robert Hooke,

who is credited as the first to use cork

to seal wine bottles.

Beautiful resorts such as this one,

are found among the groves

throughout the Portuguese countryside.

Such destinations

are becoming increasingly popular with tourists

who wish to escape

the hustle and bustle of urban life.

Our next destination is the picturesque village

of Arraiolos in the Alentejo hills.

The population barely exceeds 3000

and traditions here are closely guarded.

Hand crafted Moorish tapestries

are produced much the same way as they have been

for the past 500 years.

And seated on the hill overlooking the town,

is the 13th century Arraiolos castle.

When King Ferdinand came into power

in the 14th century,

the fort's occupants had begun to migrate

toward lower ground to escape

the cold, windy hilltop.

Despite granting them a series of privileges,

you could not convince the people to stay.

The castle eventually passed

to Nuno Alvares Pereira

who later received the title of Earl of Arraiolos.

It was used as a military base for expeditions

before falling into disrepair 400 years ago.

The only remaining building is the church

constructed in the 16th century.

The fortress was classified as a national monument

in the 1960s,

and has recently undergone renovation.

Next, we journey to the ancient city of Evora,

a designated UNESCO World Heritage Site.

One of its outstanding landmarks is the cathedral.

The dates for construction are widely debated.

Most believe it was completed in 1204

on a site previously occupied by a mosque.

Despite undergoing various additions

and large scale renovations

throughout its history,

it remains one of the most spectacular examples

of Gothic architecture in southern Portugal.

Evora Cathedral is also one of the largest

Episcopal churches constructed

during Portugal's Medieval period.

It's imposing towers and battlements

convey the magnificent strength

and size of the church fortress.

The cathedral,

and its ancient neighbor, the Roman temple,

represent two vastly different

historical periods.

Also known as the Temple of Diana,

It was constructed 1000 years

before its modern counterpart.

It was used as an execution site

during the Inquisition

and was also a slaughter house until 1870.

On the outskirts of the city,

lies the 16th century convent

of Scala Maria Coeli.

Scala Coeli means staircase to heaven.

Part of the carthusian order,

the monks who inhabit the convent

have little or no contact with the outside world.

The focus of their faith

lies in the practice of solitude and silence.

They were expelled in 1834

under Portugal's Liberal government,

and the convent was sold for agricultural use.

But, they were granted permission to return

in 1960 by the purchaser's grandson.

Today 14 monks reside at the monastery.

Further north eastern

carved high on the Serra d'Ossa mountain

we find the city of Evoramonte.

After defeating the Moors in 1160,

the Portuguese made several unsuccessful attempts

to populate the location.

Permanent settlement was finally achieved

after King Dennis ordered fortification

of the town in 1306.

But in 1834,

The city forever sealed its place

in the history of Portugal

by being the place where the treaty

to end the country's Civil War was signed.

That treaty is known as

The Concession of Evoramonte.

The castle here,

described as the northern limit of the moons rising,

has stood as a symbol of strength

in the middle of the Alentejo plain

for nearly seven centuries.

After suffering extensive damage

in the earthquake of 1531,

it was repaired in the Italian Renaissance style.

We continue our journey to the quarries

Vila Vicosa

Rosa Portugal marble which is mined here

is found in all aspects of urban architecture

within the surrounding cities and beyond.

The stone is mined from the Estremoz anticline

an elliptically shaped geological formation

40 kilometers in length.

Its creation began 500 million years ago,

when sediment and shallow water organisms

combined to form a thick layer of limestone.

volcanic lava then flowed over the top,

creating the pressure and heat necessary

to transform it into the beautiful marble

we see today.

Vila Vicosa stone has been mined since antiquity.

And the earliest evidence of marble

from this region

is found in the tombstone

of a carthaginian captain from 370 BC.

Today Rosa Portugal marble

is exported to countries around the world.

Situated in one of the luscious regions of Portugal,

and surrounded by fragrant citrus groves,

we find the enchanting city

of Vila Viçosa itself.

The name means fertile valley.

It received its name

after the Moors were driven out in 1226.

With 160 quarries located nearby,

Rosa marbled mansions, churches and streets

are a regional feature.

The Dukes of Braganza

who were descended from the illegitimate child

of King João the first

settled here in the 15th century.

The Braganza name is synonymous

with Portuguese aristocracy.

Jaime the fourth duke,

and the son of Fernanda the second,

ordered the construction of the ducal Palace

in 1501.

He refused to live in the primitive castle

previously inhabited by the Braganzas

because of its association

with his father's execution.

Jaime, whose statue stands at the entrance,

was often described as melancholy.

He later murdered his wife

because he suspected she was having an affair.

The primary facade is completely covered

in Rosa Estremoz marble,

and the architectural style was inspired

by the Italian Renaissance.

The Duchess's garden or forest garden

is comprised of complex and intricate geometric patterns.

The palace has continuously undergone

multiple renovations and additions

throughout its history.

Today it houses a museum

and has been designated

as the official summer residence

of the president of Portugal.

Our next stop is the majestic town of Alandrol.

Situated in Portugal's fertile countryside

near the Spanish border.

It's name may have been derived

from the abundance of oleander in the region.

The castle is located in the center of the town,

and is one of the finest examples

of Islamic architecture in the Alentejo region.

Built during the reign of King Dennis,

it was designed to defend the town's border

along the Guadiana River.

The construction dates inscribed on the door,

state that the first stone

was laid on February of 1294.

With all work completed, four years later,

in 1298.

The castle was declared a National Monument

in 1910.

The charming village of Monsaraz

is surrounded by fields of wildflowers and olive groves.

It is home to only 150 permanent residents

and visitors are encouraged

to enjoy sites by foot,

since motorcars are not permitted

within the village walls.

It was captured from the Moors in 1167

by the famous soldier, Geraldo the fearless.

And although Monsaraz was accustomed

to frequent attacks,

the most surprising of these occurred

when the time was sat in 1381 by an Englishman,

the Earl of Cambridge,

who was enraged when his engagement

to the daughter of Ananda The first

was annulled.

He unleashed his anger on the town

and gained control of the castle.

In a surprise attack four years later,

Spanish forces seized back the fortress.

The town's white houses

constructed with outdoor staircases,

wrought iron balconies,

and elongated chimneys

are from the 16th and 17th centuries.

Today bull fights are held

within the castle walls,

each spring and autumn.

With more than 1000 kilometers of shoreline,

the Alqueva reservoir is the largest

artificial lake in Europe.

The Alqueva dam built on the Guadiana river

produces hydroelectric power

and irrigation for agriculture

for the Alentejo region,

the hottest and driest area in Portugal.

The original agreement to build the dam

was signed in 1968.

But construction didn't properly begin

for another 30 years.

The ancient village of Luz

was relocated for the project,

with the original now submerged

in the waters of the lake.

The town and ancient fort of Juromenha

are situated on the banks of the Guadiana river.

Tradition holds that the walls here

were built by the Romans.

In 1167, Geraldo the fearless

seized the fort in yet another conquest

from the Moors,

and its location along Portugal's border

with Spain ensured that it went on

to serve as a vital defensive point.

Juromenha's last battle was fought in 1801,

when it's governor surrendered to the Spanish

without resistance.

The fort was returned in 1808.

Listed as UNESCO World Heritage Site,

the garrison city of Elvas,

contains the best surviving example

of Dutch fortification,

and the largest dry ditch system in the world.

It was a key border crossing

on the route between Madrid and Lisbon,

making it extremely vulnerable to attack.

Fortification began 1640,

and was designed by Dutch Jesuits

who applied geometric theory

to the site's irregular typography.

Elvas is constructed into 3 successive walltowns,

and each phase reflects the evolution

of the Dutch fortification system.

An ingenious aqueduct was developed

to supply water to the city.

Now considered to be a marvel

of medieval Portuguese engineering,

construction began in 1537.

And it took over 80 years

for water to finally flow along its channels.

Comprising 843 arches,

the aqueduct stretches

eight and a half kilometers in length

and stand 31 meters in height,

making it the largest on the Iberian Peninsula.

It held strategic importance

by allowing the city to endure

a lengthy siege during wartime.

Just outside Elvas, is Santa Luzia Fort,

built to protect the southern portion of the city

at its most vulnerable point.

Its traditional star shaped design

made it extremely difficult to attack.

This structure is what remains

of a vast set of defensive buildings.

Santa Luzia Fort currently houses

the Military Museum of Elvas.

And a little over a kilometer north,

is our last stop on this journey.

Our Lady of Grace Fort,

standing on this imposing hill.

It is considered to be a masterpiece

of 18th century military architecture,

and proved crucial to the decisive victory

during the peninsula wars.

One of the punishments devised

for captured military prisoners

was to carry water,

one kilometer up the steep hill.

For centuries, Our Lady of Grace Fort,

together with Santa Luzia

and the wall city of Elvas

formed an impressive line of defense

against assault.

This remarkable structure

stands as a symbol of Portugal's fierce

determination for autonomy

as an independent nation.

A fitting place to end this journey.

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