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(wind blowing)
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(dramatic orchestral music)
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- Our journey
begins to the north of Montreux
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at the medieval hilltop town, Romont.
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Heading east and deeper
into the mountains,
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we'll discover the
Charterhouse de La Valsainte,
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an ancient Hermetic monastery.
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We'll fly southward the Lake
Geneva, to Montreux itself,
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famous the world over for
its annual jazz festival.
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It's then into the mountains
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and the famous ski resort of Verbier.
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Moving eastward, we'll weave
through the spectacular
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mountain passes of Valais,
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before taking a brief passage
through Northern Italy.
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Once back in Switzerland,
we'll visit the cities
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of Locarno and Ascona on
the shores of Lake Maggiore.
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We'll end our journey
over the Brissago Islands
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with its unexpected botanical gardens
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sitting out in the middle of the lake.
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(soft guitar riff)
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Here in the French-speaking
region of Switzerland,
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we find the picturesque
medieval town of Romont.
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Its name is an abbreviation
of Rotundo Monte,
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or the Round Mountain,
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describing the gently sloping
hill upon which it sits.
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It is most known for the beauty
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of its ancient stained
glass windows that decorate
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many of its old stone
churches and sanctuaries.
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Romont passed between royal houses
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throughout the Middle Ages,
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and eventually sided
with a Helvetic Republic,
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which was the first early manifestation
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of Switzerland as a unified state.
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The town's well-preserved
fortifications, streets
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00:02:57,980 --> 00:03:01,672
and buildings are of such
great historical significance
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that the entire town is
on the Swiss inventory
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of heritage sites.
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Moving eastward, and
deeper into the mountains,
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we come to the last remaining
Carthusian monastery
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in all of Switzerland,
Charterhouse de La Valsainte.
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The Carthusian sect has a way of life
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based on a mix of hermetic
isolation and communal living.
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Monks here spend most of
each day in their cells,
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meditating, praying and writing.
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But this isolation is
interspersed with communal prayers
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and long group walks through
the mountainous countryside.
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Although the community feeling
amongst the monks is strong
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and encouraged, contact with
the outside world is limited.
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Only one visit a year from
family members is permitted.
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Continuing eastward, we
arrive at Gruyeres Castle,
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standing guard at the head
of the quaint medieval town
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of the same name.
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Construction began in the 11th century
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to protect the townsfolk
in the valley below.
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From then, up until the 16th
century, the town flourished,
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and 19 Counts and their families
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resided here over the years.
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The last of these, Michel, fell into
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financial difficulties in 1554.
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After which the prominent
Bovy and Balland royal houses
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restored the castle
into a summer residence.
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In 1938, the Fribourg
municipality bought it,
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and now, together with its gardens,
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opened it up to the public.
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The wealth of Gruyeres
old town has traditionally
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come from agriculture, most
importantly, Gruyeres cheese,
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now famous the world over.
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A popular tourist spot,
the town has nevertheless
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00:05:18,330 --> 00:05:21,890
managed to retain the
bucolic peaceful atmosphere
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for its 1,500 residents.
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But despite the towns love
for the old ways of life,
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it has produced some very
progressive characters.
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H. R. Giger, for instance,
the famous Swiss designer,
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who is well known for his
work on the "Alien" movies,
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was born and raised here.
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And, recently, a museum which
holds the largest collection
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of his works was established.
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Now we move south and
away from the mountains
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to the city of Montreux on
the shores of Lake Geneva.
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The boarder between Switzerland and France
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runs through the center of this lake,
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and as a result, Montreux has
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become a vibrant intersection of cultures.
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But without doubt, the
city is most renowned
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for its famous annual music festival.
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It started in the 1960s but
reached heights of new fame
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when Deep Purple wrote the
song, "Smoke on the Water,"
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which recounts the night Frank
Zappa set the casino on fire
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with a flare gun during a concert.
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These days, Montreux often
receives 200,000 visitors a year,
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and throngs of respected
international artists.
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And leading up from the city
is this funicular railway.
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One of the carriages descends
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while the other is pulled upwards,
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keeping the system always in balance.
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A very effective and energy efficient way
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to gain plenty of altitude
in a short amount of time.
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Quite important in these
Swiss mountain towns.
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The ride takes passengers through fields
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of beautiful Alpine flowers in the spring,
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and provides a quick lift
for recreational sledgers
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in the winter.
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As we move along the northern
shore of Lake Geneva,
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over Autoroute 9, you can
see why Switzerland is famous
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for its spectacular mountain roads.
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The highway below is a perfect example
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of the difficult feats
of engineering employed
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00:07:41,890 --> 00:07:44,943
to maintain the natural
aesthetic of the countryside.
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And perhaps more enviable
than these wonderful roads
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is Switzerland's remarkably
extensive rail network
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through the Alps that
runs on a highly efficient
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and practical schedule.
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Almost all services are timed
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so that connecting trains
arrive at precise intervals.
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00:08:08,640 --> 00:08:10,230
This means that passengers rarely
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00:08:10,230 --> 00:08:12,243
have to wait around for a connection.
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And the services are so dependable,
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you could more or less
set your watch by them.
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Located on the eastern
shore of Lake Geneva
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lies the spectacular Chateau de Chillon.
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The medieval fortress began as a number
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of separate buildings, and
over the centuries, they merged
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serving as a status symbol
for the Savoy family
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who control them.
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The castle has been
taken many times since,
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but never through sieges or bombardment.
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This explains why Chillon has
remained beautifully intact.
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It's captured the imagination of artists,
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poets and philosophers.
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00:09:01,060 --> 00:09:04,970
19th century poets, Lord Byron
and Percy Bysshe Shelley,
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took a boat trip out on the
lake to visit the famed chateau.
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Inspired by the story of a monk
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who was imprisoned here for his beliefs,
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Byron wrote the famous
poem, "Prisoner of Chillon".
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00:09:19,523 --> 00:09:22,280
And in more recent times, Freddie Mercury,
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of the group Queen,
stopping for a visit here
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after playing at the Montreux Festival,
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said of the place, "This must be heaven."
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Now we'll travel east from Lake Geneva
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to the most mountainous
region in Switzerland.
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Here it seems quaint settlements
are nestled in each valley.
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Before modern transport, these
small agricultural villages
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would have been largely
inaccessible to each other.
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As a result, each habitation,
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only separated by a few kilometers,
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developed dialects so vastly different
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00:10:02,470 --> 00:10:05,460
that, sometimes, residents
from neighboring villages
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00:10:05,460 --> 00:10:07,463
couldn't even understand each other.
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The mountains in this
area are considered to be
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some of the best off-piste
skiing locations in the world.
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The powdery snow plasters
these peaks and valleys
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in the wintertime, drawing
tourists from around the world.
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And perhaps the most popular ski resort
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in all of Switzerland is
here in the town of Verbier.
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At the turn of the century this place
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consisted of a few hubs,
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and its economy revolved entirely
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around dairy farming and cattle rearing,
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like most other small
villages in the region.
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But then, in 1925, a group of
mountaineers explored the area
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discovering the fabulous
skiing potential here.
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Soon afterwards, a small
commercial operation
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was established.
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00:11:08,160 --> 00:11:10,450
The business was slow to take off.
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00:11:10,450 --> 00:11:15,450
Late in the 1950s the resort
still only had three employees.
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That was quick to change in the 1970s
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when a worldwide ski boom propelled
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this once quaint town into stardom.
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00:11:23,450 --> 00:11:25,910
Now it is a major winter sports hub,
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with its population
rising to nearly 40,000
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during the season.
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00:11:38,100 --> 00:11:41,110
The minimal rainfall,
plentiful running water
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and ample sunshine make
these mountain valleys
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ideal for vineyards.
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00:11:49,110 --> 00:11:50,900
Wine making has been a major part
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of Swiss agricultural life
for hundreds of years,
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and its success is largely attributed
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to the sophisticated irrigation techniques
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developed long ago, and
continually refine to this day.
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00:12:05,850 --> 00:12:07,810
Bisses, or water channels,
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00:12:07,810 --> 00:12:10,410
that run in abundance
down the mountian sides,
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are designed to provide the grapevines
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with just the right amount of moisture.
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The waters from these
valleys and mountain streams
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are all part of the
vast Rhone River basin.
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All in all, Switzerland has 5%
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of the continuous fresh water supply,
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and so is often referred
to as Europe's Water Tower.
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A few valleys over we come to Sion,
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one of the countries oldest settlements.
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There's evidence that Neolithic farmers
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were working the land
here over 6,000 years ago.
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00:12:48,030 --> 00:12:51,513
It later became a busy trading
post during the Roman Empire.
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The town is flanked by
twin fortifications,
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standing on rocky outcrops
which were carved out
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by glaciers in the last Ice Age.
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00:13:04,860 --> 00:13:07,750
In the foreground is the Valere Basilica,
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00:13:07,750 --> 00:13:10,603
the more well-maintained
and well-known of the two.
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00:13:11,700 --> 00:13:15,350
This hilltop church was
commissioned by the Bishop of Sion
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soon after the city was
established as Switzerland's
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00:13:17,880 --> 00:13:21,113
first Catholic diocese in the 4th century.
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00:13:23,030 --> 00:13:25,000
And due to the city's close relationship
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with Christian Roman power,
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00:13:26,900 --> 00:13:29,000
the bishops were able to wrangle almost
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00:13:29,000 --> 00:13:31,003
complete sovereignty for Sion.
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00:13:33,470 --> 00:13:36,330
Today, Valere Basilica is home to what is
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00:13:36,330 --> 00:13:38,660
thought to be the oldest
organ in the world,
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00:13:38,660 --> 00:13:43,533
still in continuous use, built in 1435.
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00:13:46,950 --> 00:13:50,660
And on the opposite hill
is Tourbillon Castle.
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00:13:50,660 --> 00:13:52,520
Now little more than a ruin,
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this fortress with its thick walls
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00:13:54,610 --> 00:13:56,800
and numerous towers and battlements,
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00:13:56,800 --> 00:14:00,163
was once a formidable
deterrent to invading forces.
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00:14:04,870 --> 00:14:08,340
Sion was attacked by the
French in the 14th century,
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00:14:08,340 --> 00:14:11,180
forcefully incorporated
into the Helvetic Republic
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00:14:11,180 --> 00:14:15,380
in the 16th century, and ransacked
by various Paval families
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00:14:15,380 --> 00:14:17,583
in the region over the years.
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00:14:19,550 --> 00:14:23,433
It figures that Tourbillon
saw its fair share of action.
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00:14:26,090 --> 00:14:29,340
Despite the city's tumultuous
history of warfare,
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00:14:29,340 --> 00:14:33,490
the castle managed to
remain intact until 1788
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00:14:33,490 --> 00:14:35,693
when it was devastated by fire.
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00:14:37,920 --> 00:14:40,530
The stones were scavenged
for a number of years
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00:14:40,530 --> 00:14:42,750
to reinforce other buildings in the town,
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00:14:42,750 --> 00:14:46,070
until finally, what was left of Tourbillon
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00:14:46,070 --> 00:14:48,583
was officially protected
by the local government.
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00:14:53,180 --> 00:14:55,160
Further west, we find one of the most
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00:14:55,160 --> 00:14:57,993
breathtaking backdrops to any sport.
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00:15:00,530 --> 00:15:03,390
Spread out at 1,800
meters above sea level,
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00:15:03,390 --> 00:15:06,350
and perched over the
picturesque Rhone Valley,
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00:15:06,350 --> 00:15:08,913
is the Crans-sur-Sierre golf course.
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00:15:10,900 --> 00:15:14,550
The sport was played
here casually since 1905,
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00:15:14,550 --> 00:15:17,900
as prior to World War I,
golf was almost solely
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00:15:17,900 --> 00:15:20,033
the prerogative of the British gentry.
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00:15:21,170 --> 00:15:24,880
As a result, the venue wasn't
established in a big way
235
00:15:24,880 --> 00:15:28,540
until 1939 when it hosted its first
236
00:15:28,540 --> 00:15:30,483
European Masters tournament.
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00:15:31,550 --> 00:15:34,800
About 20 years ago, the
course got its second boost
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00:15:34,800 --> 00:15:38,900
when Severiano Ballesteros,
the famed Spanish golf star,
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00:15:38,900 --> 00:15:41,223
was commissioned to redesign the grounds.
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00:15:43,230 --> 00:15:46,480
Now it's considered to
be one of the top courses
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00:15:46,480 --> 00:15:47,313
in the world.
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00:15:51,680 --> 00:15:54,610
The Valais region covers
some of the most beautiful
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00:15:54,610 --> 00:15:56,680
and rugged terrain in Switzerland,
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00:15:56,680 --> 00:15:58,780
and has presented builders and engineers
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00:15:58,780 --> 00:16:02,760
throughout the centuries
with irresistible challenges.
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00:16:02,760 --> 00:16:05,580
Like these bridges that
cross one of the countless
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00:16:05,580 --> 00:16:07,403
sharp and deep ravines.
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00:16:08,740 --> 00:16:11,560
The gorge has been carved
out by running water
249
00:16:11,560 --> 00:16:16,043
over thousands of years, and
is now roughly 800 meters deep.
250
00:16:21,380 --> 00:16:24,070
The old stone bridge and
the modern car crossing
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00:16:24,070 --> 00:16:27,630
side-by-side is a wonderful
example of how the Swiss
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00:16:27,630 --> 00:16:31,203
merge the past and present
with seamless grace.
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00:16:35,162 --> 00:16:37,070
(train chugging)
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00:16:37,070 --> 00:16:40,750
The Alps make up 65% of Switzerland,
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00:16:40,750 --> 00:16:43,530
so the country's engineers
had to become experts
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00:16:43,530 --> 00:16:46,263
in mountain travel if they
wanted to get anywhere.
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00:16:50,010 --> 00:16:52,830
And tunnels are their forte.
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00:16:52,830 --> 00:16:57,400
The first Swiss mountain
tunnel was built in 1708,
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00:16:57,400 --> 00:17:00,793
and now they're woven beneath
a large portion of the Alps.
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00:17:04,430 --> 00:17:07,400
Traditionally, Swiss
villages were weeks of travel
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00:17:07,400 --> 00:17:11,820
apart from each other, and
inaccessible most of the year.
262
00:17:11,820 --> 00:17:14,660
But now almost every isolated hamlet
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00:17:14,660 --> 00:17:17,363
is no more than a days travel by train.
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00:17:23,330 --> 00:17:26,603
Eastward, the mountains
become ever more imposing.
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00:17:28,190 --> 00:17:33,110
With over 47 peaks in Valais,
above 4,000 meters in height,
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00:17:33,110 --> 00:17:36,593
we are now moving into the
heart of the Swiss Alps.
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00:17:37,700 --> 00:17:40,110
The area may look unpopulated,
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00:17:40,110 --> 00:17:42,870
but hilltop villages
and tucked away hamlets
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00:17:42,870 --> 00:17:44,333
dot the countryside.
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00:17:45,810 --> 00:17:48,710
Transit across the Alps has
played an important role
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00:17:48,710 --> 00:17:50,740
ever since medieval times.
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00:17:50,740 --> 00:17:53,940
But large-scale Alpine tourism only began
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00:17:53,940 --> 00:17:57,800
around the mid 1800s
when British mountaineers
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00:17:57,800 --> 00:18:00,433
traveled here to ascend the peaks.
275
00:18:04,940 --> 00:18:08,770
And perhaps the most popular
Alpine crossing point is here,
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00:18:08,770 --> 00:18:11,000
the Simplon Pass.
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00:18:11,000 --> 00:18:15,370
At 2,005 meters, the road
offers dizzying views
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00:18:15,370 --> 00:18:16,693
over the valley below.
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00:18:18,250 --> 00:18:20,640
This spot has been used for centuries,
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00:18:20,640 --> 00:18:22,510
with the first documented crossing
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00:18:22,510 --> 00:18:26,343
by Kaspar Jodok von
Stockalper in the 1600s,
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00:18:27,240 --> 00:18:29,600
who carted salt up from the Mediterranean
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00:18:29,600 --> 00:18:31,093
on the backs of mules.
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00:18:32,870 --> 00:18:34,680
But it wasn't until Napoleon's march
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00:18:34,680 --> 00:18:37,120
across Switzerland in the 19th century
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00:18:37,120 --> 00:18:39,350
that the pass was significantly developed
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00:18:39,350 --> 00:18:41,673
into a highly accessible thoroughfare.
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00:18:42,780 --> 00:18:45,290
Napoleon's army used this crossing point
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00:18:45,290 --> 00:18:49,000
to cart cannons and
artillery down towards Italy,
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00:18:49,000 --> 00:18:51,700
but these days, it's open to everyone.
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00:18:51,700 --> 00:18:53,350
And thanks to recent strengthening
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00:18:53,350 --> 00:18:55,640
and avalanche protection procedures,
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00:18:55,640 --> 00:18:58,063
the pass is open all year round.
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00:19:03,230 --> 00:19:05,923
Now we descend into the Simplon Valley.
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00:19:08,420 --> 00:19:11,690
Italy draws closer and the climate becomes
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00:19:11,690 --> 00:19:13,263
evermore Mediterranean.
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00:19:14,220 --> 00:19:18,060
And as we edge ever closer to
the Swiss and Italian boarder,
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00:19:18,060 --> 00:19:21,270
German fades away into Italian,
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00:19:21,270 --> 00:19:23,973
which is the dominant
language throughout this area.
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00:19:27,820 --> 00:19:29,730
The villages in the Valais region
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00:19:29,730 --> 00:19:33,130
are sustained largely
by livestock rearing,
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00:19:33,130 --> 00:19:35,810
and the fruit that's grown
here make up the ingredients
303
00:19:35,810 --> 00:19:38,083
for their famous regional cognacs.
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00:19:43,290 --> 00:19:45,680
Moving over our final mountain passage,
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00:19:45,680 --> 00:19:49,223
the Zwischbergen Pass, we begin
our brief crossing of Italy.
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00:19:58,260 --> 00:20:00,710
Here, human habitation appears in the most
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00:20:00,710 --> 00:20:02,253
unlikely of places.
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00:20:10,320 --> 00:20:12,520
There are many larger settlements too,
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00:20:12,520 --> 00:20:13,923
nestled in the valleys.
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00:20:15,000 --> 00:20:18,010
Like Rasa, a car-free hamlet that's home
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00:20:18,010 --> 00:20:20,070
to an eclectic mix of the descendants
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00:20:20,070 --> 00:20:22,090
of persecuted protestants,
313
00:20:22,090 --> 00:20:25,713
and hippies who settled here in the 1960s.
314
00:20:28,700 --> 00:20:32,010
Or the town of Craveggia,
whose name derives
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00:20:32,010 --> 00:20:34,593
from the Italian meaning goat pasture.
316
00:20:36,870 --> 00:20:41,810
Its 756 residents live primarily
in centuries-old farmhouses
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00:20:41,810 --> 00:20:43,623
with tall stone chimneys.
318
00:20:45,770 --> 00:20:48,900
Old hand-chiseled stone
and wrought iron railings
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00:20:48,900 --> 00:20:51,490
compromise most of the abodes here,
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00:20:51,490 --> 00:20:53,960
and a large portion of the residents live
321
00:20:53,960 --> 00:20:56,480
in the same houses that
have been in the family
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00:20:56,480 --> 00:20:58,373
for countless generations.
323
00:21:01,100 --> 00:21:04,900
A devoutly Christian population
that values an honest life,
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00:21:04,900 --> 00:21:07,017
their coat of arms motto reads,
325
00:21:07,017 --> 00:21:09,787
"Fear not if thou doest good."
326
00:21:13,550 --> 00:21:16,763
And a few valleys down, we
come to the village of Re.
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00:21:17,940 --> 00:21:20,330
In the 15th century, the quiet settlement
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00:21:20,330 --> 00:21:23,720
was declared the site of a
miracle by the Catholic church,
329
00:21:23,720 --> 00:21:25,950
when a fresco of the Virgin Mary
330
00:21:25,950 --> 00:21:29,793
started to bleed profusely
after a rock was thrown at it.
331
00:21:31,130 --> 00:21:36,040
This massive complex, the
Santuario della Madonna del Sangue
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00:21:36,040 --> 00:21:39,290
was built up around the miraculous fresco,
333
00:21:39,290 --> 00:21:42,613
and it's become a popular
place of pilgrimage ever since.
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00:21:46,960 --> 00:21:50,010
And following the lush
Italian valley of Vigezzo
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00:21:50,010 --> 00:21:52,030
takes us back into Switzerland
336
00:21:52,030 --> 00:21:54,910
where we find our last
stop on this journey,
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00:21:54,910 --> 00:21:57,343
the glorious Lake Maggiore.
338
00:22:02,730 --> 00:22:04,700
Over 60 kilometers in length,
339
00:22:04,700 --> 00:22:07,953
it serves part of the boarder
between Italy and Switzerland.
340
00:22:14,560 --> 00:22:18,120
The lake is less than 200
meters above sea level,
341
00:22:18,120 --> 00:22:21,090
making it one of the lowest
points in Switzerland
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00:22:21,090 --> 00:22:23,840
and a popular summer retreat for Swiss
343
00:22:23,840 --> 00:22:26,563
wanting to escape the cold mountain life.
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00:22:31,650 --> 00:22:34,010
The towns and gardens set at the foot
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00:22:34,010 --> 00:22:36,150
of the majestic Swiss Alps,
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00:22:36,150 --> 00:22:39,020
creating an atmosphere
that has lured artists
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00:22:39,020 --> 00:22:41,573
and intellectuals for hundreds of years.
348
00:22:46,960 --> 00:22:51,230
On the southern tip of Lake
Maggiore is the city of Locarno,
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00:22:51,230 --> 00:22:55,423
an Italian-speaking center
with a population of 150,000.
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00:22:56,910 --> 00:22:59,560
It has been important since Roman times,
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00:22:59,560 --> 00:23:03,100
and in the mid 1900s, over 50 Roman graves
352
00:23:03,100 --> 00:23:05,043
were discovered beneath its streets.
353
00:23:07,000 --> 00:23:10,580
This was the first evidence of
Roman burials and cremations
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00:23:10,580 --> 00:23:14,253
from the same era taking
place side-by-side.
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00:23:16,590 --> 00:23:18,410
Like many cities in Switzerland,
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00:23:18,410 --> 00:23:22,040
Locarno was a stronghold
of Catholic power,
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00:23:22,040 --> 00:23:25,220
until it was incorporated
into the Swiss Confederation
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00:23:25,220 --> 00:23:27,373
after the Napoleonic Wars.
359
00:23:30,680 --> 00:23:33,390
Close by, we come to Ascona.
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00:23:33,390 --> 00:23:35,810
At 160 meters above sea level,
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00:23:35,810 --> 00:23:39,173
it is the lowest lying
town in all of Switzerland.
362
00:23:42,550 --> 00:23:44,320
As well as being a popular destination
363
00:23:44,320 --> 00:23:46,210
with its own jazz festival,
364
00:23:46,210 --> 00:23:49,233
it has developed a reputation
for revolutionary thought.
365
00:23:52,510 --> 00:23:54,500
At the turn of the 20th century,
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00:23:54,500 --> 00:23:57,410
a group of idealists set
up a thriving commune
367
00:23:57,410 --> 00:23:59,810
that rejected established conventions
368
00:23:59,810 --> 00:24:02,123
in favor of closer links with nature.
369
00:24:03,500 --> 00:24:05,660
Though the commune is now long gone,
370
00:24:05,660 --> 00:24:09,710
the tradition for radical
thinking continues in Ascona
371
00:24:09,710 --> 00:24:11,640
through seminars held by the universities
372
00:24:11,640 --> 00:24:13,563
of Zurich and Lucerne.
373
00:24:16,110 --> 00:24:18,940
And finally, we venture
into the heart of the lake
374
00:24:18,940 --> 00:24:22,513
to the botanical gardens
of the Brissago Islands.
375
00:24:24,100 --> 00:24:26,910
In stark contrast to the snowcap peaks,
376
00:24:26,910 --> 00:24:29,080
the climate here is subtropical,
377
00:24:29,080 --> 00:24:32,250
and the exotic plants on the
smaller of the two islands
378
00:24:32,250 --> 00:24:34,233
are left mostly to grow wild.
379
00:24:36,350 --> 00:24:40,610
But its larger and more cultivated
neighbor, San Pancrazio,
380
00:24:40,610 --> 00:24:42,763
is the main attraction for tourists.
381
00:24:44,750 --> 00:24:48,230
It was once a refuge for
persecuted Christians,
382
00:24:48,230 --> 00:24:52,190
but in the 1880s, the local
baroness created exotic,
383
00:24:52,190 --> 00:24:56,580
subtropical gardens where
artists, musicians and writers
384
00:24:56,580 --> 00:25:00,273
were invited to meet and
work in an inspiring setting.
385
00:25:03,550 --> 00:25:06,660
Stone sculptures and
even Roman-style baths
386
00:25:06,660 --> 00:25:09,093
were added to enhance its splendor.
387
00:25:10,290 --> 00:25:13,810
In the 1950s, district
locals bought the island
388
00:25:13,810 --> 00:25:16,060
and opened it to the public.
389
00:25:16,060 --> 00:25:20,540
Finding Mediterranean, Asian,
Australian and African plants
390
00:25:20,540 --> 00:25:22,910
growing in the middle of a Swiss lake
391
00:25:22,910 --> 00:25:25,730
is a reminder of just how surprising
392
00:25:25,730 --> 00:25:29,170
and diverse this country can be.
393
00:25:29,170 --> 00:25:32,443
It's a perfect place to end this journey.
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00:25:35,044 --> 00:25:38,711
(dramatic orchestral music)
32381
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