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(wind whooshes)
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(bright uplifting music)
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(energetic upbeat music)
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- Our journey
begins in the city of Antwerp,
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once a medieval center of
international trade and commerce.
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We will then fly over
the beautiful province
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of East Flanders and
make our way to Ghent,
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which at its height in the 13th century
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was second in size only to Paris.
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Moving along, we'll visit Blankenberge,
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the one sleepy fishing town
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that has since become a
Belgian summertime Mecca.
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From here, we'll visit Ostend,
the Flemish City-by-the-Sea
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and preferred retreat for
the early kings of Belgium.
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We'll stop at Tyne Cot,
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the largest Commonwealth
cemetery in the world.
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And finally, we'll discover Ypres,
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the town which was completely
annihilated in World War I
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and is now a self-declared City of Peace.
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With a population of half a million,
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this is the largest city in
Flemish Belgium, Antwerp.
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Although it's still an important economic
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and cultural center, its
heyday was in the 16th century
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when it was a thriving
hub of international trade
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and one of the strongest
economies in the world.
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(airy somber music)
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Imposing structures like
the Cathedral of our Lady
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are a testament to the once
vast wealth of the city.
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When the gothic church was
finally completed in 1521,
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it was the tallest building in
the world and at a 123 meters
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it is still Antwerp's highest.
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With over 320,000 visitors a year,
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the cathedral is now listed as
a UNESCO World Heritage site.
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The church tower looms
over the Grand Market,
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a pedestrian square lined
with medieval Guild houses.
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During Antwerp's golden era,
workers in various trades
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and professions organized
themselves into guilds
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to maximize their political
clout and profits.
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They now serve as shops,
residences, and restaurants.
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This one is a 500-year-old
Vleeshuis, or the Butcher's Hall.
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A meat market had stood
here since the 13th century,
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but Antwerp's economic
boom 300 years later
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compelled the butchers' guild
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to triple the building in size.
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The city has had a varied past.
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And although it has never
quite regained the prominence
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it once had, Antwerp is
still a bustling place.
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And as with any great city,
there's a station to match.
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This is Antwerp Central.
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The structure is regarded by
many as the finest example
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of railway station
architecture in all of Belgium
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and is ranked on par with
the greatest in the world.
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Although Antwerp's economic gravitas
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dwindled in the 17th century,
artistic initiatives,
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like the Middelheim sculpture park,
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have in recent years
served to rebrand the city
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as a fashion and cultural center.
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The park was opened in 1950
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and now has over 400 modern sculptures
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dating from 1900 to the present day.
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Nearby is Antwerp port.
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(light relaxing music)
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It was developed in 1811,
when French military forces
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moved into the region.
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Napoleon, then the French Emperor,
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saw its strategic potential
for his European campaign.
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(light relaxing music)
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Today, it still serves as
a major gateway to Europe
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being one of the continent's biggest ports
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with a capacity to hold
over 3,500,000 cubic meters
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of liquid bulk cargo.
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(light relaxing music)
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Leaving the province of Antwerp,
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we enter the heart of Flanders
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where flower growing is big business.
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(light acoustic guitar music)
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This region is Belgium's major producer
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of stems, bulbs and tubers
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with exports to Europe and America.
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Belgium's national flower
is the indigenous red poppy
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which bloomed across some of
the bloodiest battlefields
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during the First World War.
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And for many countries across the world
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it's become the symbol
for fallen soldiers.
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(light acoustic guitar music)
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Following this train headed towards
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the ancient banking town of
Ghent provides an opportunity
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to take in the modern
landscape of Flanders.
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But beneath the surface lies
an age-old cultural divide
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with the southern French-speaking
region of Belgium.
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It's not forgotten by many
here that their language
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wasn't properly recognized until 1930,
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when Dutch was finally made an
official language of Belgium
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and a Flemish university was opened.
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And even to this day
most of the six million
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Dutch speakers of Flanders
identify as Flemish
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rather than Belgian.
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This is Ghent.
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Until the 13th century,
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it was the largest city
in Europe after Paris.
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The city's success was fueled
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by the cloth and textile trade,
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it sourced most of its wool
from England and Scotland.
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(light airy music)
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The economy completely collapsed
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after the Belgian revolution of 1830
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and Ghent never regained
the wealth and prosperity
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it had once enjoyed.
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the belfry is a typical
feature of Flemish towns.
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They had multiple functions:
not only did they serve
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as bell and watch towers, but
most were also treasury rooms
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where financial documents were stored.
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(light airy music)
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In the Middle Ages lords would
grand townsfolk privileges
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such as of organizing markets
and selling their goods.
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In return there lords
received money or the promise
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of armed service from the populous.
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The agreements drawn up
were kept under lock and key
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in this belfry.
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Another popular attraction for visitors
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is Gravensteen Castle.
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The current structure was built in 1180.
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It served as the seat
of the Count of Flanders
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until it was abandoned when the
town declined in prominence.
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It then functioned briefly
as a cotton factory
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during the Industrial Revolution,
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before being scheduled for demolition.
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But fortunately, the
city of Ghent stepped in
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to purchase the building
and began renovations.
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Part of the castle is now
a dedicated Torture Museum,
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partly because the adjacent
square was once the site
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of public executions.
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In the historic City Center
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lies a 15th century Saint Bavo Cathedral
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named in honor of a local nobleman
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who gave away all his wealth
to the poor and became a monk.
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Much of the interior was
destroyed in 1566 during a period
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known as the Iconoclastic Fury,
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which saw Calvinists decimating artwork
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inside many churches in the area.
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Much of the destroyed
art was later replaced
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with pieces by famous Belgian artists
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such as Jan van Eyck.
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Canals served as the arteries
of commerce throughout Ghent.
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It was the construction of these waterways
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which led to the town's
prosperity in the Middle Ages.
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They ran through all the
important sectors of the city
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and were essentially the
highways of the 13th century.
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(light acoustic guitar music)
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Though the canals are
still important for trade,
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their key role now is in
tourism as it's a popular way
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for visitors to see the city.
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Leaving Ghent, we pass the
impressive Ghent-Terneuzen Canal
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built in the mid-1800s.
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It allowed commercial craft
easy access to the sea ports.
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But these days getting to the coast
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takes on a quite different form.
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(light dreamy music)
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Running right beside
Ghent is E40 motorway,
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constructed in 1956.
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(light dreamy music)
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It's perhaps the most
important road in Flanders
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as it connects the capital of Brussels
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with a popular North Sea town of Ostend
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where we'll be heading.
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Unlike the hilly south,
northern Belgium is very flat,
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especially as we move further
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into the province of West Flanders.
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It is the only Belgian
province to share a border
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with both the Netherlands and France.
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For reasons we'll soon
discover, it's also the region
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that draws many of the country's tourists.
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Our first stop is its
largest city, Bruges.
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It was of a significant
economic importance
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for hundreds of years,
mostly due to its easy access
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to the North Sea.
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First fortified by the Count of Flanders
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in the 9th century to guard
against Viking invasions,
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it quickly became a center of cloth trade
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in the 13th century.
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Although the city's location was central
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to commercial success, it
was the monetary innovations
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that truly boosted the economy of Bruges.
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Bills of exchange and letters of credit
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made this place one of
the most sophisticated
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money markets in the world at the time.
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It is also is thought
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that the world's very first stock exchange
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was set up here as early as 1309.
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Often referred to as
the Venice of the North,
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in Bruges a canal is never far away.
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Now mostly vacant, the waterways
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were once teeming with merchant vessels
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moving to and from the Guild Houses
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built right on the edge of the canals.
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The Reie river which runs through Bruges
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was transformed over hundreds of years
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to create easy waterway access
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to markets and trading houses.
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Indeed, the entire economy here hinged
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on the health and
navigability of the canals.
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It was in fact, the
silting of the waterways
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which ultimately suffocated commerce
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and sent the city into a rapid
decline in the early 1600s.
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These days commercial boats
are banned from the canals
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and transit on them is
solely the privilege
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of licensed tourist vessels.
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One of the many treasures
along Bruges canals
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is Sashuis or sluice gate house.
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It was from here that the
lock system was operated
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which allowed boats to move
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into different sections of the canal.
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It is very likely that
the operator of the lock
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would be busy with this task all day long
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and so would have once resided inside.
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Because of Bruges immense
wealth, at its height
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the city was painstakingly fortified.
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An example of such fortification
is here, the Ghent Port,
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one of the four surviving
defensive medieval gates
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that regulated commerce
in and out of the city.
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Situated on the road to Ghent,
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it was probably the most important gate.
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And here is the Kruispoort,
another of the four surviving
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fortified entrances into the city.
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This one was constructed as
part of a massive rebuilding
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of the city's fortifications
in the late 13th century
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at the height of Bruges glory.
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The gate itself was rebuilt yet again
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out of strong white limestone
in the 15th century.
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Farther along, is the
Bonne Chiere windmill.
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Built in 1888 and moved
to this spot in 1911,
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it stands as a fine tribute to
the Golden Age of windmills.
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The tallest building in the
city is the Church of our Lady
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standing at a 122 meters
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it took over a century to construct.
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Inside are many artistic treasures
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including marble works by Michelangelo.
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The fact that Bruges was able
to buy such prized pieces
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by famous artists and have them shipped
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all the way from Siena goes to show
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the power its thriving economy commanded.
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"In the market-place of Bruges
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"Stands a belfry old and brown;
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"Thrice consumed and thrice rebuilt
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"Still watches o'er the town."
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Henry Wadsworth Longfellow's verse
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alludes to be unlucky history
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of the city's most recognizable
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piece of architecture, the belfry.
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00:16:14,400 --> 00:16:18,320
Like many Flemish belfries,
it housed important documents.
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But in 1280, these were
all lost in a fire.
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In the 15th century a wooden spire
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in the likeness of the Archangel Michael
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was struck by a lightning.
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00:16:30,620 --> 00:16:34,440
It was rebuilt 200 years
later, but fell victim
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00:16:34,440 --> 00:16:35,903
to yet another fire.
257
00:16:40,040 --> 00:16:43,080
The tower overlooks the market Square.
258
00:16:43,080 --> 00:16:46,610
The Guild houses and old banks
that were once prevalent here
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00:16:46,610 --> 00:16:49,303
have now been converted
into restaurants and shops.
260
00:16:56,760 --> 00:17:00,070
We leave Bruges along
the 23-kilometer canal
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00:17:00,070 --> 00:17:03,283
that leads across the
flatlands to the Belgian coast.
262
00:17:04,130 --> 00:17:07,940
It's part of a vast 1,600-kilometer
network of waterways
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00:17:07,940 --> 00:17:10,800
connecting Holland and
France, making it popular
264
00:17:10,800 --> 00:17:13,294
with boaters and cyclists alike.
265
00:17:13,294 --> 00:17:16,544
(light relaxing music)
266
00:17:17,460 --> 00:17:19,670
Reaching the coast, we first arrive
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at the very popular seaside
resort town of Blankenberge.
268
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(light relaxing music)
269
00:17:33,910 --> 00:17:37,770
The population is about 20,000
but in the summer months,
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the town sees a massive influx of Belgians
271
00:17:40,770 --> 00:17:43,743
coming from inland to
enjoy the sun and sand.
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00:17:48,410 --> 00:17:50,350
For many hundreds of years Blankenberge
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00:17:50,350 --> 00:17:52,410
was just a small fishing village,
274
00:17:52,410 --> 00:17:54,320
though the port was recognized
275
00:17:54,320 --> 00:17:56,480
as having some strategic value
276
00:17:56,480 --> 00:17:58,080
being between Bruges and Ostend.
277
00:18:01,890 --> 00:18:03,820
But it wasn't until the 19th century
278
00:18:03,820 --> 00:18:07,070
that the time really
started to alter its image
279
00:18:07,070 --> 00:18:10,310
to that of a luxurious holiday resort.
280
00:18:10,310 --> 00:18:13,433
It even became a favorite
for Austrian Royals.
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00:18:15,100 --> 00:18:17,450
The fad soon spread and
within a few decades
282
00:18:17,450 --> 00:18:20,220
the English aristocracy
had begun making their way
283
00:18:20,220 --> 00:18:24,470
across the sea to sample the
beaches, spas and plush hotels
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00:18:24,470 --> 00:18:26,263
to the town it become famous for.
285
00:18:27,439 --> 00:18:30,689
(light relaxing music)
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00:18:32,600 --> 00:18:36,010
Today, the stretch of sand is
no longer the exclusive domain
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00:18:36,010 --> 00:18:37,723
of royals and the wealthy.
288
00:18:41,440 --> 00:18:44,890
In fact, the beaches across
the length of the Flemish Coast
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00:18:44,890 --> 00:18:48,390
already popular with and
easily accessible by Belgians
290
00:18:48,390 --> 00:18:50,940
are becoming more well
known to the British
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00:18:50,940 --> 00:18:53,140
and the rest of Europe.
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00:18:53,140 --> 00:18:55,740
A total of 13 holiday resorts
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00:18:55,740 --> 00:18:59,393
run along the 60-kilometer
stretch of golden beaches.
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00:19:02,920 --> 00:19:06,680
Surfing, spas, and seafood
are some of the major drawers
295
00:19:06,680 --> 00:19:09,900
to the coastline that's dotted
with hotels, apartments,
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00:19:09,900 --> 00:19:13,263
villas, cottages, holiday
villages, and campgrounds.
297
00:19:17,870 --> 00:19:21,210
The Flemish Coast has been
an important area of trade
298
00:19:21,210 --> 00:19:23,610
and a constant point of foreign invasion
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00:19:23,610 --> 00:19:24,973
throughout the centuries.
300
00:19:25,810 --> 00:19:28,760
One of the most prominent
ports here for both commerce
301
00:19:28,760 --> 00:19:30,963
and warfare is Ostend.
302
00:19:34,850 --> 00:19:37,090
And like any strategic harbor,
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00:19:37,090 --> 00:19:39,563
it stood prepared for enemy attacks.
304
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This is fort Napoleon.
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00:19:43,540 --> 00:19:46,570
It was constructed initially
to fend off a Spanish invasion
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00:19:46,570 --> 00:19:50,670
in the 16th century, which
resulted in a four year battle
307
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known as The Siege of Ostend.
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00:19:55,120 --> 00:19:57,840
About 200 years later, soon after Napoleon
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was crowned emperor of France,
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00:19:59,760 --> 00:20:02,050
he realized the importance of the fort
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00:20:02,050 --> 00:20:05,380
and ordered its massive
expansion into its present form.
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00:20:08,510 --> 00:20:11,220
Today, the fortress
enjoys a more sedate life
313
00:20:11,220 --> 00:20:13,180
as a historic visitor center
314
00:20:13,180 --> 00:20:15,933
that even boasts a gourmet restaurant.
315
00:20:21,040 --> 00:20:24,430
Ostend port remains an
important point of transit
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00:20:24,430 --> 00:20:26,213
between England and Belgium.
317
00:20:27,200 --> 00:20:29,590
After the original port
was totally destroyed
318
00:20:29,590 --> 00:20:32,260
in the 16th century during
the Siege of Ostend,
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00:20:32,260 --> 00:20:36,363
the docks were re-developed
under Dutch rule in 1815.
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00:20:38,030 --> 00:20:41,280
A permanent feature of
the port is the Mercator,
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00:20:41,280 --> 00:20:43,253
Ostend's floating museum.
322
00:20:44,280 --> 00:20:47,560
It's greatest claim to fame
is bringing back to Belgium
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00:20:47,560 --> 00:20:49,800
the remains of Father Damien,
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00:20:49,800 --> 00:20:54,003
a priest who dedicated his life
to helping lepers in Hawaii.
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00:20:57,396 --> 00:20:58,850
Ostend came to prominence
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00:20:58,850 --> 00:21:03,743
after the Dutch shut down canal
access to Antwerp in 1722.
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00:21:05,030 --> 00:21:07,330
The Holy Roman Emperor
then granted the city
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00:21:07,330 --> 00:21:09,683
exclusive trading rights with Africa.
329
00:21:10,580 --> 00:21:12,740
Although this arrangement was soon quashed
330
00:21:12,740 --> 00:21:14,450
by the British and Dutch,
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00:21:14,450 --> 00:21:17,440
it's a testament to Ostend's importance.
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00:21:20,090 --> 00:21:21,620
But it's current reputation
333
00:21:21,620 --> 00:21:24,830
as the Queen of the
Belgian Seaside Resorts
334
00:21:24,830 --> 00:21:28,800
was cemented by the first
king of Belgium Leopold I
335
00:21:28,800 --> 00:21:32,225
who often frequented the
town for relaxing breaks.
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00:21:32,225 --> 00:21:35,392
(light pensive music)
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00:21:41,935 --> 00:21:43,270
And a contribution to the city
338
00:21:43,270 --> 00:21:47,170
by the second king,
Leopold II, stands here,
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00:21:47,170 --> 00:21:49,633
the church of Saint Peter and Saint Paul.
340
00:21:51,830 --> 00:21:54,290
In fact, Leopold was so enthusiastic
341
00:21:54,290 --> 00:21:56,410
about the construction of his new church,
342
00:21:56,410 --> 00:21:58,950
that some suspect the king organized
343
00:21:58,950 --> 00:22:01,920
the burning down of the
Pieterskerk whose tower
344
00:22:01,920 --> 00:22:03,803
is the only part left standing.
345
00:22:05,600 --> 00:22:09,070
Leopold II lived to see the
completion of his project
346
00:22:09,070 --> 00:22:12,883
in 1905, four years before his death.
347
00:22:13,990 --> 00:22:17,490
The church faces out to sea
as an impressive display
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00:22:17,490 --> 00:22:20,573
of the city's prestige
to approaching visitors.
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00:22:24,530 --> 00:22:27,850
The population here is
usually around 70,000,
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00:22:27,850 --> 00:22:30,780
but this number jumps
significantly in the summer,
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00:22:30,780 --> 00:22:33,610
as tourist buses shuttle visitors in
352
00:22:33,610 --> 00:22:35,253
from other Belgian cities.
353
00:22:39,570 --> 00:22:42,340
Ostend is without doubt
one of the most popular
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00:22:42,340 --> 00:22:43,903
summer sites in Belgium.
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00:22:48,700 --> 00:22:51,230
And to ferry this huge influx of tourists
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00:22:51,230 --> 00:22:54,023
along the shoreline is the coastal tram.
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00:22:56,690 --> 00:22:59,950
Running for 68 kilometers,
it is claimed by some
358
00:22:59,950 --> 00:23:02,163
to be the longest tram line in the world.
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00:23:04,560 --> 00:23:07,300
Three million people use it every summer
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00:23:07,300 --> 00:23:10,993
as a convenient way to visit
the many seaside towns.
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00:23:15,640 --> 00:23:17,800
We now follow our route inland
362
00:23:17,800 --> 00:23:20,010
to the site of some of
the bloodiest battles
363
00:23:20,010 --> 00:23:24,063
of the Great War between 1914 and 1918.
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00:23:28,350 --> 00:23:30,830
Tyne Cot cemetery is the resting place
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00:23:30,830 --> 00:23:34,116
for almost 12,000 British
and Commonwealth soldiers,
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00:23:34,116 --> 00:23:36,973
who fought here on the Western front.
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00:23:38,300 --> 00:23:40,670
And nearby makeshift hospital was set up
368
00:23:40,670 --> 00:23:43,644
to care for the wounded,
but as the death toll grew,
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00:23:43,644 --> 00:23:46,400
so did the number of burials.
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00:23:46,400 --> 00:23:48,480
And today Tyne Cot stands
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00:23:48,480 --> 00:23:51,383
as a largest Commonwealth
cemetery in the world.
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00:23:53,870 --> 00:23:57,560
Over 8,000 graves are unidentified.
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00:23:57,560 --> 00:24:02,493
Their headstones are simply
marked with Known unto God.
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00:24:04,680 --> 00:24:07,840
When King George visited
the cemetery in 1922,
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00:24:07,840 --> 00:24:11,487
he said, "I have many times asked myself,
376
00:24:11,487 --> 00:24:13,677
"whether there can be
more potent advocates
377
00:24:13,677 --> 00:24:17,157
"of peace upon earth that
this massed multitude
378
00:24:17,157 --> 00:24:20,740
"of silent witnesses to
the desolation of war."
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00:24:26,400 --> 00:24:30,470
The closest town to Tyne Cot
is Ypres, which still bears
380
00:24:30,470 --> 00:24:31,973
the memory of the Great War.
381
00:24:33,720 --> 00:24:36,510
The Menin Gate which
stands at the entrance
382
00:24:36,510 --> 00:24:40,270
bears the names of 54,000
Commonweath servicemen
383
00:24:40,270 --> 00:24:42,453
who have no known grave.
384
00:24:44,160 --> 00:24:46,230
It is symbolic of the Commonwealth forces
385
00:24:46,230 --> 00:24:49,040
driving to Europe from
which they were likely
386
00:24:49,040 --> 00:24:50,393
never to return.
387
00:24:52,380 --> 00:24:56,090
Ypres itself was
devastated by German forces
388
00:24:56,090 --> 00:24:57,900
during the Great War.
389
00:24:57,900 --> 00:25:01,630
Mustard gas, tear gas, and poison Yperite,
390
00:25:01,630 --> 00:25:05,023
named after the city, was
used on the population.
391
00:25:07,090 --> 00:25:10,130
Saint Martin's Cathedral
though completed destroyed
392
00:25:10,130 --> 00:25:12,520
during the conflict was rebuilt
393
00:25:12,520 --> 00:25:14,400
and has since become a pilgrimage site
394
00:25:14,400 --> 00:25:17,163
for those paying respect to the war dead.
395
00:25:20,670 --> 00:25:22,840
As a result of its brutal past,
396
00:25:22,840 --> 00:25:25,450
Ypres along with places like Hiroshima
397
00:25:25,450 --> 00:25:29,240
has labeled itself a City of Peace,
398
00:25:29,240 --> 00:25:32,936
a poignant place to end this journey.
399
00:25:32,936 --> 00:25:36,353
(bright uplifting music)
400
00:26:08,608 --> 00:26:10,858
(swooshes)
32241
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