Original subtitles

(upbeat music)

- Our journey begins in the province of Caserta,

where we explore a palace

that succeeded in rivaling Versailles

and continued an Italian tradition

of majestic water gardens.

Next we encounter some of Italy's ties

to the Second World War,

from the seaside town of Anzio

to an abbey in the mountains of Cassino.

Following the trail of the ancient Appian Way,

we then enter Rome for an aerial excursion

over its ancient ruins and its awe-inspiring architecture,

including the Colosseum, the Forum,

the Piazza Navona, and the Palatine Hill.

From one of the most ancient cities in the world

to the most holy,

we visit the sacred grounds of Vatican City.

We conclude our adventure in the hills of Tivoli

with two palatial garden estates.

Our excursion to the magnificent Caserta Palace,

constructed by Charles III in the mid-18th century,

begins by exploring the four kilometer-long garden

which stretches up to the hillside.

The park was designed by Caserta architect Luigi Vantivelli

and completed by his son, Carlo, in 1780.

Comprised of a system of Baroque water features,

the centerpiece is the Fountain of Aeolus,

an enormous promenade

that spans the entire 120 hectare estate.

Adjacent and towards the upper end is the English Garden,

designed in 1782 in the English style,

a reaction to the formal Italianate gardens of the time.

We cover the last segments of the Park

as it ascends from the Fountain of Venus to its terminus

at the Great Fountain atop of the promenade.

An aqueduct was built to bring water to this grotto,

from where it then begins its journey down the hillside.

The aqueduct is 38 kilometers long

and runs through five mountains,

keeping the waterfalls and other features fully operational.

The water first cascades 150 meters

into the ornate basin of the Great Fountain.

Here, we find famous sculptures

in the form of the Fountains of Diana

and, to the left, Actaeon,

which depicts the hero transformed into a stag

as wolves prepare to tear him to pieces,

a penalty for gazing at Diana as she bathed.

King Charles III wanted an estate

to rival Versailles and Madrid's Royal Palace.

Although he never resided at Caserta,

the result of his vision was

what the World Heritage Center deemed the swan song

of the spectacular art of the Baroque.

Caserta provided assembly for its king, the court,

and the government.

The 1,200 room palace is rectangular

with four inner courtyards covering 3,800 square meters.

We travel north up the coast to the fishing town of Anzio.

Situated on the Lazio coast,

the port was a vital landing spot

for an attack by the Allied Forces in World War II.

The plan was to drive through to Rome,

just 56 kilometers to the north,

to liberate it from German forces.

The ensuing battle left Anzio in ruins.

However, after the war, much of the town was rebuilt,

and in such a way that kept its fishing town character.

And set back from the coast in the nearby town of Nettuno

is a poignant reminder of the scale of fighting

that took place from 1943 to 1944.

This is the Sicily-Rome American Cemetery.

Rich in art, architecture, and landscaping,

this vast World War II memorial covers over 30 hectares.

Nearly 7,900 fallen American troops are buried here

amongst the rows of Roman pines.

Most of the casualties were sustained

during the liberation of Sicily in 1943,

while other soldiers died in the landings

of Salerno and Anzio and the heavy fighting northward.

We continue on to Cassino,

at the southern end of the Lazio region.

And it's here we catch the dramatic sight

of Monte Cassino Abbey.

Since its inception in the sixth century,

it has suffered terrible fortune, repeatedly attacked,

pillaged, or ruined by natural disaster.

During World War II, the German forces used it

as a stronghold, blocking access to Rome.

American-led air raids almost completely destroyed it

in 1944 during the Allied forces' Italian campaign.

The abbey, originally built by St. Benedict in 529,

was reconstructed after the war

in its ancient architectural form,

and finally re-consecrated by Pope Paul VI in 1964.

With relics from St. Benedict and St. Scholastica,

tourists flock to the working monastery

to indulge themselves in its historical importance

and its attractive architecture.

Our journey now takes us to the town of Frascati,

where we encounter a magnificent exhibition

of Papal extravagance, the Villa Aldobrandini.

Set facing Rome, 20 kilometers away,

this dramatic building was an ostentatious display

of the church's power and authority.

In 1600, Pope Clement VIII,

a member of the Aldobrandini family, acquired this site,

gifting the property to his nephew, a cardinal.

The highly ornate villa and grounds were constructed

during the Baroque period,

at a time when Popes attempted to outdo their predecessors

with shows of grandeur,

building palaces which reflected their wealth and power.

This estate served a ceremonial function

for the Aldobrandinis

and was not used as a family residence.

During the Second World War,

there was significant damage to the Villa

after bombing destroyed over half of the town.

Today it remains an architectural treasure

for its historical and cultural significance.

The Appian Way was once the most strategic road

of ancient Rome.

It's also the site of the crucifixion

of the gladiator Spartacus,

whose slave uprising ended along this route.

It leads us to the eternal city

and capital of the ancient empire, Rome.

During his journey to Italy,

German novelist Johann Wolfgang von Goethe wrote

that "only in Rome is it possible to understand Rome."

We're now over the heart of the Italian capital

and the River Tiber, winding through the city

that has influenced the world politically

and socially for 2 1/2 thousand years.

And its importance lives on to this day

as the spiritual center

for the world's billion or so Catholics.

The splendor of Rome's ancient treasures

can be seen almost everywhere.

From the imposing Trajan's Column,

to the temples of the Republican period

dating back over two millennia.

They nestle effortlessly amongst newer landmarks,

such as the Victor Emmanuel Monument.

One of the best preserved structures is the mighty Pantheon,

the former temple to all the gods of ancient Rome.

And nearby is the Piazza Navona,

arguably Rome's most beautiful square.

Once a fortified city,

the original walls can still be seen today.

They date back to the third century,

erected around the seven hills of Rome

to protect against German invaders.

2/3 remain intact and well-preserved,

since they were used for defense

right up until the 19th century.

There were 18 grand gates, such as this one,

known in ancient times as Porta Appia.

Flanked by two semi-circular towers,

it was later renamed Porta San Sebastiano.

The wall incorporated many existing structures

like this Egyptian-style pyramid built in 12 BC

as a tomb for Caius Cestius.

At the southeastern part of the ancient district

are the red-brick ruins of the Baths of Caracalla.

Completed in 217 AD, and covering over 11 hectares,

the massive rooms were enjoyed by Romans for over 300 years.

The complex was able to accommodate up to 1,600 citizens,

providing not only bathing, but a library, a gymnasium,

galleries, restaurants, and even brothels.

Today, it hosts the Rome Opera company during the summer,

having staged the first concert of the Three Tenors in 1990.

We arrive in the heart of the city

at the imposing and impressive Colosseum,

the largest building constructed in the Roman Empire.

Despite its decay, it remains a remarkable feat

of architecture and engineering.

The amphitheater held 50,000 spectators who assembled,

for no charge, in tiered seating arrangements

that reflected the hierarchies within Roman society.

Below ground were rooms that contained mechanical devices

and cages for wild animals,

which could be lifted to appear center stage.

Aiming to increase their popularity,

the Emperors would stage fights to the death

between gladiators and animals

or simply between gladiators themselves.

It was made of concrete and stone,

yet originally clad in marble, which was later incorporated

into the construction of St. Peter's Basilica

and other landmark buildings.

In the present day,

visitors are allowed to view the interior of the arena,

and, recently in 2010,

the subterranean passageways were opened to the public.

The site is still used ceremoniously

by the Catholic Church on Good Friday,

as a starting point for the torchlit procession led

by the Pope, known as The Way of the Cross.

Although dwarfed in size by its neighbor,

the Arch of Constantine is not short

of historical significance.

One of three remaining imperial triumphal arches,

the edifice commemorates Constantine's victory

in a fourth century Civil War.

Ironically, the decorations aren't as well-preserved

as those from earlier eras

and it's almost a symbol for the eventual fall

of the Roman Empire.

We shift from the entertainment hub

to the center of Roman public life at the Forum.

For over 1,000 years,

this rectangular plaza hosted elections,

Senate assemblies, and triumphal processions.

The complex of ancient ruins includes government buildings,

temples, arches, and basilicas,

giving the visitors some idea

of the Forum's original layout.

Perhaps no landmark in the Forum remains as intact

and well-preserved as the Arch of Septimus Severus.

Erected in 203 AD

to commemorate the Emperor's victory in Parthia,

the structure originally had a flight of stairs

running through the 12 meter high center passage.

The arch became property of a church in the Middle Ages,

and unlike other monuments such as the Colosseum,

its parts were protected

and not incorporated into new buildings.

According to legend, Rome's founding dates back to 753 BC

when twin brothers Romulus and Remus settled on this site,

marking the beginnings of the Roman Kingdom.

Today, the Palatine Hill is an open-air museum

containing ruins of large imperial buildings,

such as the Palace of Septimus Severus.

During the Republican era,

the top of the Palatine Hill became

the exclusive residential area for the rich and powerful,

not least for the amazing vistas over the city.

Augustus, Cicero, and Marc Antony all resided here.

One of Rome's modern landmarks is

the 18th century Spanish Steps,

connecting a piazza to a 16th century French church.

This symmetrical and elegant structure has 12 flights

of stairs with total of 138 steps,

and is the widest staircase in Europe.

Nearby is the oval-shaped square, Piazza del Popolo.

Tourists flock to see the ancient Egyptian obelisk

in the center, but it was the Porta del Popolo

that made an impression upon those arriving

in the Renaissance era.

The large gate welcomed pilgrims entering the city

along the Via Flaminia,

which connected Rome to the Adriatic coast.

Another example of the opulent palaces built

by wealthy families of Popes is the Villa Borghese.

Situated on the outskirts of Rome

at the time of its construction, it was built by a cardinal

who was the nephew of Pope Paul V,

and to this day showcases the Borghese family's collection

of paintings, sculptures, and antiquities.

Erected during the late renaissance in a classical style,

the Villa became a publicly-owned gallery in 1902.

Heading towards Vatican City,

we stop first at Castel Sant'Angelo,

a national museum that once stood as a refuge

for Popes facing an imminent threat.

Originally a mausoleum, the castle was fortified

and incorporated into the Aurelian Wall,

transforming it into a Papal fortress

and luxurious residence.

Occupying less than half a square kilometer

and completely encircled by Rome is Vatican City.

It's the world's smallest country

and spiritual center for over a billion Catholics worldwide.

St. Peter's Basilica was built on Vatican Hill

as a shrine to St. Peter, one of the 12 apostles

and considered the first Pope.

He died as a martyr and was buried on the site in 64 AD.

Construction of the present buildings commenced

in the early 1500s.

The greatest Italian architects of the era spent

over 100 years building the new basilica,

and it was finally re-consecrated in 1626.

Although millions flock to Vatican City each year,

it is home to only 800 residents.

Arguably the best panorama of the Eternal City is

from the base of a giant lantern that caps the oculus

atop the ribbed vault of St. Peter's Basilica.

A masterful collaboration between Bramante and Michelangelo,

the massive cupola has a diameter of 42 meters

and rests on four huge pillars,

which support a cylindrical drum that features 16 windows.

At a height of 136 meters,

this crowning piece is the tallest dome in the world.

Such a magnificent and imposing structure

as St. Peter's would be incomplete

without a grandiose esplanade

to welcome those taking in its splendor.

The Baroque-style piazza was designed

by Bernini in the 17th century.

The elliptical circus

that slopes towards the Egyptian obelisk at its center

is surrounded by massive colonnades symbolizing

the Church's outstretched arms greeting its communicants.

Bernini also sculpted the 140 statues of saints

that perch on top of the balustrades of each colonnade.

Historian Banister Fletcher referred to the piazza

as the "greatest of all atriums

"before the greatest of all churches in Christendom."

As we prepare to leave Rome,

we capture yet another fantastic approach

to viewing the city in the form of a hot air balloon,

tethered about half a kilometer

above the beautiful Borghese gardens.

The vista is our last look at the Italian capitol,

as we continue east into the hills towards Tivoli.

We take a slight detour, southeast of Rome,

to a sacred grotto in the hills of Subiaco.

Built into the cliff on Mount Taleo

is this brown-hued stone monastery that enshrines the cave,

deemed the Sacro Speco,

where St. Benedict lived as a hermit for three years,

before organizing his first monastic community

a few kilometers from here.

Most of the monastery's Gothic style buildings

were constructed in the 13th and 14th centuries,

hundreds of years after St. Benedict's lifetime.

The monastery is still active,

and open for visitors to pray and explore.

And tucked away is an inconspicuous entrance

that leads to the holiest place in the sanctuary.

This is the portal for the chapel

that contains the sacred cave of St. Benedict

where he spent his hermitage in 500 AD.

Benedict, along with his twin sister, St. Scholastica,

resided in the valley for 20 years,

founding 13 monasteries and nunneries between them

before moving to Monte Cassino

to spend another two decades in service.

Resting among cypress and olive trees

in the ancient town of Tivoli are the ruins

of the Villa Adriana, a great complex built

as a summer retreat for Emperor Hadrian

in the early second century.

Excavations began in the 16th century, revealing the remains

of some of the finest Roman architecture.

The grounds cover a vast area of 120 hectares,

which included designs inspired by Hadrian's travels

to Greece and Egypt,

like the Pecile, this piazza with a central pool,

inspired by the Athens landmark, Stoa Poikile.

In total there were over 30 buildings,

including palaces, baths, a theater,

temples, libraries, and living quarters.

The most ambitious creation was Canopus,

a sanctuary of the god Serapis

along the Nile's delta near Alexandria.

Designers crafted a canal over 100 meters long

and this artificial grotto called Serapeum.

Perhaps Hadrian's favorite refuge was the Maritime Theatre,

a round pool with an island, which contained a small house,

an atrium, baths, and a library.

Surrounded by columns in a classic ionic style,

the theater is assumed to be the private studio,

where Hadrian withdrew to indulge himself

in painting and architecture.

Our final destination brings us to another palatial estate

in a series of extravagant 17th century villas,

in the hills that surround the Roman Campagna.

These are the magnificent water gardens

of the Villa d'Este in Tivoli.

Tourists marvel at the clever irrigation

which feeds the 500 fountains and water displays,

integrated harmoniously into the natural sloping landscape,

which covers an area of 4 1/2 hectares.

Very few gardens can compare to the innovation

of the fountains and basins of the Villa d'Este,

perhaps a reason why European gardens,

from Portugal to Poland, would be modeled

after the estate's landscaping,

such as this wall of water called the Hundred Fountains.

Cardinal Ippolito d'Este built the villa

following a failed bid for the papacy,

desiring, in his own words, a garden suitable

for "one of the wealthiest ecclesiastics

"of the 16th century."

The result were gardens that blended ancient artistry

with a modern mannerist style,

creating an Italian oasis to be treasured for centuries.

A perfect place to end this journey.

(upbeat music)

(whooshing)