Original subtitles

(wind howling)

(intense orchestral music)

(intense orchestral music)

- Our journey begins in the East German province

of Saxony-Anhalt.

We follow the River Elbe through Wittenberg,

the birth place of the Protestant Reformation.

From an Enlightenment-era pleasure garden in Wörlitz,

we discover castles dotted across the countryside,

from Freyburg to Saaleck.

Then it's away from the Elbe

and into the state of Thuringia.

The famed cultural history of Weimar

and the dark past of Buchenwald concentration camp are

on our path down the old East/West Germany divide.

We cross the border briefly

to discover a 200-meter man-made heap of waste salt

in the state of Hesse.

Then move back to the former East Germany

and through the Thuringian Forest, Germany's green heart,

before ending our journey

at the romantic Reinhardsbrunn Castle.

(birds chirping)

(gentle orchestral music)

The Elbe River has featured prominently

in the history of Germany.

It's been central to trade and fishing

as well as serving as a natural frontier.

The river forever frustrated the Romans:

their massive, organized armies always driven back

to the Rhine by Germanic tribes.

And during the Allied occupation of Germany the Elbe served

as a natural border between the East and West.

(gentle instrumental music)

And situated on the Eastern side of the river,

in the province of Saxony-Anhalt, is the city of Wittenberg.

It was established as a trading center

in the late 12th century, but over the years became renowned

as a hub of education and culture.

It was here that 16th century monk, Martin Luther,

wrote his 95 theses, the single act

that sparked the Protestant Reformation.

And looming over the market square are the twin towers

of Stadtkirche, a 12th century church that found itself

at the heart of a great religious controversy.

Because it was on this site that Martin Luther,

back from exile, preached from the new testament

in German instead of Latin.

And this is the Schlosskirche, or Castle Church.

It was onto the door of this Church

that Luther nailed his 95 theses.

Today the city of Wittenberg is a site of pilgrimage

for Christians, especially Protestants,

who want to get in touch with the roots of their faith.

And as we continue down the River Elbe we come

to Wörlitz Park.

(gentle instrumental music)

Situated by the small town of the same name,

it's the largest of the English Parks in Germany.

When Prince Leopold III took a trip through Europe

in the 18th Century, he returned to Germany influenced

by the ideas of the French and English Enlightenment.

He sought to supplant the prevalent Baroque Garden

aesthetic, which was very geometric and ordered,

with a new naturalistic approach.

Islands, hidden statues and massive palaces rise up out

of the woods and lagoons.

These manmade structures and works of art were designed

to blend seamlessly with nature.

The park even boasts the first manmade volcano,

as Leopold was deeply inspired by Mount Vesuvius

during his travels through Italy.

(gentle instrumental music)

The overriding concept of the garden

was influenced primarily by the writings of Rousseau.

The French philosopher sought to incorporate nature

into everyday life and use it as an educational tool.

(gentle instrumental music)

Schools and houses of worship for a number

of religions are prevalent in the garden.

Synagogues were built alongside churches here

to highlight the religious tolerance of the Enlightenment.

(intense instrumental music)

And in the center of a small town near Wörlitz

is the Oranienbaum Palace.

Architects and engineers were brought in

from the Low Countries

to create this Baroque-style building and landscape.

When Leopold's great-grandfather married

into the Dutch royal line, he built this palace

and gardens as a summer residence for his new wife.

The gardens surrounding the palace consist

of Europe's largest orangery,

which boasts the most diverse variety

of heirloom citrus fruits in Europe.

From Germany's heritage to more current concerns,

the Saxony-Anhalt region is a leader in renewable energy.

44% of the state's consumption is from wind power.

However, most of the country's energy still comes

from lignite, a low-grade coal.

This derelict power plant in Muldenstein,

situated above the Elbe, was built during World War I

to supply electricity to the East German rail system

in the area.

After World War II the station was commandeered

by a Soviet aircraft engine company.

Much of the equipment for the power plant was taken back

to Russia in the 1950s.

This is the dual city of Bitterfeld and Wolfen.

Like many East German towns, the economy here

was primarily based on the discovery of lignite

and the subsequent heavy industry that grew up around it.

Now the industry in the city is geared largely

towards the production of solar cells.

And running through the town is the A9,

which connects many of Germany's major cities,

from Munich to Berlin.

Many of the East-West highways during the Cold War

were restricted and empty.

After unification however, roads like this expanded

to become major paths of transit.

Like most highways in Germany there is no speed limit.

Now we move westward over vast tracks of farmland

into the neighboring state of Thuringia.

The expanse of open fields is interrupted

by this massive complex: the Rassnitz Youth Prison.

A prime example of the German government's belief

in rehabilitation, the prison offers its inmates

a second chance.

Schools and libraries promote professional study;

while greenhouses, workshops

and sports halls offer more hands-on experience.

Germany's economic boom came from the discovery

of lignite during the industrial revolution,

and the resource has been a major driver ever since.

Energy produced this way is a point

of serious environmental contention in Germany.

This power station in Schkopau

pumps out five billion kilograms of carbon dioxide a year.

Further down the Elbe is the town of Freyburg.

Known as The Tuscany of the North,

Freyburg is the northernmost wine-growing region in Europe,

and has been producing the drink for over 1,000 years.

The history and growth of the town has been inextricably

linked to this hilltop fortress, Neuenburg Castle.

It was built in 1090 by a Thuringian Count,

but has changed hands several times.

The Swedes captured it during the 30 Years War,

a conflict over the development of Protestantism.

Then, it passed from the Prussians to the French,

and back to the Prussians again.

Now it is primarily known as a pilgrimage site

for sports enthusiasts, as it is

where Friedrich Ludwich Jahn,

the father of modern gymnastics, is buried.

Now on to the village of Saaleck,

which sits beneath two hilltop castles.

Built on a limestone ridge to the west,

these two towers used to be the core

of a much larger defensive area.

And on the cliff face to the east sits Rudelsburg Castle,

built in the 12th century to protect trade routes.

Throughout its turbulent history,

the fortress witnessed many battles and seiges.

But after extensive reconstruction in the 1990s,

Rudelsburg Castle is now a popular tourist destination

and the meeting place

for Germany's oldest student fraternity.

Windmills served as the country's pre-industrial powerhouses

for over 600 years.

Many have been beautifully restored,

like this rotating-cap windmill,

just outside our next stop, the city of Apolda,

historically a textile manufacturing center.

Almost the entire city is composed of these plattenbau,

or public housing blocks.

Serious housing shortages followed the devastation

of World War II.

This particular style proved ideal throughout East Germany,

as they were cheap and easy to construct.

In contrast is Thuringia's farmland,

which actually makes up almost half the state.

A whole range of crops flourish in these fertile soils,

adding to the region's culinary reputation.

Nearby is the medieval castle of Denstedt.

Like many of these noble residences,

it was devastated during the 30 Years War

in the 17th century.

400 years later, it was commandeered

by the Red Army as a base.

Today, Denstedt is in private hands,

and investors are considering ways of putting the castle

to use, possibly as a sports center or health spa.

In the state of Thuringia few cities can rival the historic

and cultural importance of Weimar.

It was here, after World War I,

that the first democratic constitution

of Germany was signed.

In fact, from then until the rise of the Third Reich,

the country was known as the Weimar Republic.

The National Convention even sat here in 1919

because Berlin was deemed to be too dangerous due

to the rioting during the German Revolution.

The city even has a literary genre

to its name: Weimar Classicism.

This came about as a result of the work of Goethe

and Schiller, who both spent much

of their working lives here.

(gentle orchestral music)

This is the City Palace of Weimar.

Originally built in the 10th century,

and modified ever since, it was home

to barons for over 300 years.

In 1923, it was converted into a museum,

which continued through Nazi and communist rule right up

to the present day.

And at the cultural heart of Weimar is the National Theater.

Established back in 1492, the GDR used it constantly

to stage plays, as this was considered a very useful

propaganda tool during the communist regime.

And the city remains a cultural hub even today.

The recently built Congress Center functions

as a new-age counterpart to the National Theater.

It served as a venue for large-scale acts during the 1970s,

even hosting a number of western artists

from beyond the Iron Curtain.

It was drastically renovated in 1999,

in the same year Weimar was declared Europe's Cultural City.

But Weimar's history isn't all cheery.

Just eight kilometers away is Buchenwald,

the first and largest Nazi concentration camp

to be built on German soil.

Today it serves as a museum and memorial

to commemorate the deaths of 56,000 prisoners

between 1938 and 1945.

The most infamous of the camp commandants

was Karl Otto Koch, whose wife, Ilse,

came to be known as The Witch Of Buchenwald,

for her horrific and sadistic treatment of the captives.

(dramatic orchestral music)

The diseased and starving prisoners

at the complex were also used in mass medical experiments,

notably trial vaccines, which led

to countless painful deaths.

(dramatic orchestral music)

Buchenwald was finally liberated by the American forces

in April, 1945.

Now, moving out of the grim past and westward,

we arrive at Thuringia's capital city, Efurt.

Well-positioned on a ford across the river Gera,

the city became a center for the trade of woad,

a flower used to create a highly sought-after blue dye

in the Middle Ages.

Erfurt has a special place in the modern German psyche,

as it was the location of the first meeting

between chancellors from the East and West in 1970.

And at the center of the town is the Erfurt Cathedral.

It was here that Martin Luther was ordained in 1507.

The building was originally constructed

in the Romanesque style for bishop Boniface in 800,

but gothic additions were built during the Middle Ages.

Perhaps the most unique feature of Efurt is Kramerbrucke.

Translated as The Grocer's Bridge,

this structure has a much layered history, quite literally.

After a wooden footbridge burned down seven times

in the 13th century, a stone one was commissioned.

Once this fire-proof crossing was in place,

houses and shops started to build up along the edges.

Now the whole structure is municipal property except

for four privately owned sections,

lost somewhere amongst the clutter.

Away from the city, we pass woodland

that makes up one one third of Thuringia.

The region is reputed for its hunting,

as well as game sausages made

from the wild animals found here.

(birds chirping)

And marking the landscape is what's left of the old border

which once separated East and West Germany,

1,393 kilometers of fortifications extended

along the entire length of inner Germany.

Today it's protected as a European Green Zone,

a space for everyone to enjoy.

One of the earliest fortified towns

in Thuringia is Muhlhausen.

It was a major power through the 13th and 15th centuries.

But perhaps it is best known for being the chief seat

of the Anabaptist movement during the Reformation.

The movement rejects the notion of baptism at birth,

and believes only adults who are old enough

to express their faith can be baptized.

Thomas Muntzer, one of the leaders of the movement,

preached in the Church of Saint Mary in 1525.

He was later captured and executed in the city.

Nevertheless, Anabaptism took hold and is one

of the biggest Christian denominations in Germany today.

Beech, ash and maple run through Hainich National Park.

It is the longest stretch of deciduous woodland

in all of Germany.

(birds chirping)

The park is considered a perfect blend of culture

and nature, and is famous for its sustainable tourism.

Now we cross the border of the park into Eisenach.

The town began as three separate villages

which grew into each other over time.

Today, it is spread out below the watchful eye

of Wartburg Castle.

Its greatest claim is that Martin Luther

translated the New Testament

from Latin to German whilst residing here.

He worked under the pseudonym of Junke Jorge

to avoid detection.

Later on the castle became a place of nationalistic

and religious pilgrimage and a symbol

of the unification of Germany.

Now it's a location for student gatherings

and other festive events.

Before the reunification of East and West Germany,

there were plenty of brutal ways

to deter illegal border crossings.

Ditches, booby traps, minefields

and watch towers were strategically placed along the divide.

This particular tower, the BT-9 model,

still stands as a reminder of the Cold War.

Prevalent throughout the 1970s,

it had firing ports in all four walls.

But as the fence began to deteriorate in places,

savage guard dogs were deployed to defend these open areas.

It was estimated that at the height of the GDR there were

about 5,000 dogs defending such gaps.

But these days, to cross from East to West,

it's as easy as jumping on the highway.

Spanning the Werra river is this E40 motorway bridge.

Planned and designed in 1940,

the project didn't have the necessary funding until 1983.

It was a significant undertaking in that it was one

of the first joint ventures between East and West Germany,

costing approximately $75 million at the time.

732 meters long, it was constructed

using tensile steel cables to squeeze the concrete together.

Looming over this small town in Hesse

is the ever-growing salt hill of Monte Kali.

The area went through a boom in the industrial revolution,

and the discovery of the nearby Wintershall potash mines

brought the first industrial jobs to the community.

Potash is one of the three main fertilizers

in large-scale agriculture.

But the process of extracting the usable potassium salts

results in tons of solid salt waste.

The mountainous landfill started in 1973,

and has been growing ever since,

now covering an area of 55 hectares.

A 1.5-kilometer-long conveyor belt transfers 10,000 tons

of waste to the pile every day.

There are now 150 million tons

of waste salt on this mountain.

And many tourists climb the 200-meter mound every year.

The mine is run by Kali and Salz Salt Works.

This facility is the company's largest

and one of most profitable in all of Germany.

Although this site sustains about 6,000 jobs,

the Werra River, which runs alongside,

is now the most polluted in central Europe.

But plans to transfer the excess waste

into the North Sea have been finalized,

which should help restore the river.

(birds chirping)

Often referred to as Germany's green heart,

many consider the Thuringian Forest to be the poetic

and philosophical soul of their country.

At roughly 5,000 square kilometers

and dotted with sleepy villages throughout the dense forest,

this area has been the inspiration for the likes of Bach,

Martin Luther and Goethe.

When asked why he chose this location Goethe replied:

"Where else in the world does one find such beauty

"in such a small place?"

And an ideal way to take in the magnificent views

over the treetops, is to climb the 111 steps

of Carl-Alexander Tower,

which overlooks the small town of Ruhla.

(gentle orchestral music)

And finally, tucked away in a romantic corner

of the Thuringian Forest, is Reinhardsbrunn Castle.

In its 900 years, it's passed through various hands

and undergone many changes.

What we see today dates back to the 17th century,

and now surrounded by an English landscape-style park.

For centuries the castle was home to nobles and royalty.

It's here Queen Victoria of Britain,

on one of her trips through Germany,

famously met her future husband, Prince Albert.

Reinhardsbrunn serves as a lasting symbol

of the German love of architecture and the beauty of nature.

A perfect place to end this journey.

(intense orchestral music)

(rumbling)