Original subtitles

(upbeat music)

(upbeat music)

- Our journey begins along the Normandy coast

at Omaha Beach, the bloodiest site on the D-Day landings

of World War II.

We continue west and across the Contentin Peninsula

to Granville, a fortified medieval city.

Further along the coast, perched on an isolated island

in the sea is Mont Saint-Michel, a medieval abbey

that once drew pilgrim monks from around Europe.

Then on to d'Ouessant on the western tip of Brittany,

where iconic lighthouses protected the busy sea lanes

for hundreds of years.

We'll attempt to unravel the mystery

of the 3,000 neolithic stones

outside the small town of Carnac.

And finally, end our journey in La Trinite,

the famous port town that drew sailors

from around the world to it's shores.

This 360 miles stretch of Normandy coastline

has forever served as a natural frontier,

dividing France and it's neighbor, Britain.

And sadly, the golden beaches still hold memories

of countless bloody battles.

After the Norman conquest of England,

this coast was subjected to, more or less,

ongoing conflict over eight centuries.

Culminating in the D-Day landings of World War II

that sought to liberate France from Nazi occupation.

The beach head, outside the town of Arromanches,

was one of the landing sites

for the allied invasions on June 6th, 1944.

In just one day 300,000 British troops were unloaded here

with 2.5 million more soldiers arriving

over the next hundred days.

The Allied Forces reasoned that only 10 days

in the year was suitable for a massive landing of this sort.

During the convergence of a full moon

to illuminate the way for air forces,

and a spring tide to provide the deepest water possible

for ground forces to wade ashore.

(gentle music)

It was here that that the Mulberry Harbor was utilized,

the remains of which are still scattered about.

It consisted of a series of breakwaters, caissons,

and floating piers constructed in England

and brought across the channel.

Metamorphosing on the day of the assault

into a sprawling harbor that spanned the entire beachfront.

Dwight D. Eisenhower, the commander of the Allied Invasion,

deemed it necessary to overwhelm this entire coast

as quickly and with as much force as possible in order

to fully utilize the element of surprise.

What resulted was the largest amphibian invasion ever

to take place in human history.

Hitler had expected such an invasion

and ordered the construction of what became known

as the Atlantic War.

A series of gun turrets built into the cliffs

with barbed wire and landmines scattered along the beaches.

Some historians believe the German leader

would have been successful in repelling the invasion

if he had taken his generals advice

and deployed more tank units at the beach fronts.

His failure to do so was caused by Ally deception tactics

which convinced him the invasion would come

from the Straits of Dover.

Hitler continued to believe this,

even after the Allied Forces had already begun

their invasion of Normandy.

(upbeat music)

As we make our way down the coast,

we pass by Port-en-Bessin.

This fishing town of 2,000 people is positioned

between the beaches that we used in the landing

of the two largest invasion forces on D-Day.

(seagull cawing) (gentle music)

It also played a major role immediately afterwards,

functioning as the head end of a fuel pipeline

that serviced the arriving troops and vehicles.

Now we arrive at Omaha Beach,

where over 300,000 American soldiers were landed on D-Day.

After a series of misfortunes it was this invasion force

that suffered the most casualties on that day.

Firstly, a makeshift harbor was totally destroyed

in a storm beforehand and so soldiers were landed

in the water and had to wade to the beach,

making them easy targets for German gunners.

To compound this, the enemy defenses

were four times heavier than anticipated.

This cemetery was established by American forces

on June 8, 1944, two days after the invasion.

The land was granted to the United States,

without charge or tax, by the French government.

It contains the graves of the 9,387 soldiers

that died on June 6th and the two days following.

(gentle music)

Most of those killed were among the first soldiers

to arrive, landed in order

to dismantle the defense perimeter

so that troops landing later would have easy access.

(gentle music)

All though the casualties were high the perseverance

of the individuals of these first landings resulted

in the securing of two isolated footholds

which allowed access inland.

German defenses ended at the beachfront

and so once the forces had infiltrated the first line,

it was a simpler task to storm the rest of the base.

Bunkers positioned on these cliffs at Pointe du Hoc,

were situated between Omaha and Utah beaches,

two important D-Day landing points,

and so was strategically important

for the Allies to capture.

A force of 225 Rangers were tasked

with scaling the 30 meter cliff using grapnels,

ropes, and storming the emplacements seen here.

Despite the lack of surprise,

the small force was able to take the bunkers.

Though, by the time reinforcements arrived,

only a hundred men of the initial landing were left alive.

Situated on the left bank of the Dives River estuary,

Utah Beach was the westernmost landing point

for the D-Day invasion forces.

In stark contrast to the fierce fighting at Omaha,

there was relatively little resistance here.

Of the 20,000 men who were landed, only 300 were killed.

Nature gave a helping hand

to this mission by blowing the landing craft

about two kilometers off their intended target

to a place where the beach was much less fortified.

As a result, the soldiers were able

to take the Germans by surprise and eventually met up

with the 13,000 paratroopers who were fighting their way

from inland towards the coast.

(gentle music)

Now as we cross over the Cotentin Peninsula

we arrive at the town of Granville,

situated in Mont Saint-Michel Bay.

The English Channel is known

for it's strong tides and treacherous winds,

but this old fishing village is largely sheltered

and so is a significant hub of cross channel transit.

Though, at times past, it's proximity to England caused it

to be the site of constant warfare.

It was fortified by the English in the Hundred Years War.

It passed between the two nations a number of times

before coming securely into the hands of the French.

The upper part of the town, seen here,

is surrounded still by the original ramparts,

which served to resist many bloody sieges.

Further down the coast we arrive

at the famous Mont Saint-Michel.

This rocky tidal island sits just over one kilometer

from the mainland and has a total population of 44.

The monastery dates back to the 8th century

and is dedicated to the archangel, Michael,

who is attributed with tossing Lucifer into Hell.

It was a popular pilgrimage site for monks in medieval times

and infamous for the dangerous access

as it could be only reached across the causeway at low tide.

As a result, the place was nicknamed

Sir Michael in peril of the sea.

The monastery gained much wealth

in the 11th century by siding

with William of Normandy in his conquest of England.

It was from this point on that the surrounding buildings,

cloisters, and abbey were built.

This site and the surrounding bay are

now UNESCO Heritage Site, attracting more

than three million visitors a year.

The tides here are notoriously unpredictable and fast

with Victor Hugo once comparing them

to a swiftly galloping horse.

Mont Saint-Michel Bay is now famous for oysters and muscles.

As we cross the border and leave Normandy behind,

we reach the town Cancale,

widely known as the oyster capital of Brittany.

(upbeat music)

King Louis XIV had his oysters delivered to Versailles

from this place in the 18th century.

He valued the shellfish from this region so much

that he ordered a conservation campaign

to strictly regulate dredging

so as to keep the natural stock in constant steady supply.

15,000 tons of oysters are produced here each year.

And just outside the town on Cancale is Rimains Island.

It was built up as a sea fort in the 18th century

to protect the western side of Mont Saint-Michel Bay.

One of the mot active engineers of the French enlightenment,

the Marquis de Vauban, designed the fort.

As of 2012 the island and structures

were on the open market.

The densely packed history of Brittany,

from the neolithic settlers to the Celts, Romans,

and Gauls are a big draw for visitors.

Perhaps the most appealing aspects

of the region are it's moderate climate

and beautiful beaches.

The only common complaint is of the rain

to which locals have the response,

"In Brittany it only rains on idiots."

Moving along the coast we arrive at Guesclin Fort,

built in 1026 the original structure consisted

of three towers and a dungeon.

Taken by the English 200 years later,

the fort then passed hands a number of times.

During the enlightenment

the ambiguous Marquis de Vauban reinforced the complex

as a measure against English invasions.

The fort was again used for defense by

the Germans during World War II,

after which it fell into disrepair.

It's now restored and open to visitors in the summer.

The fortified city of Saint-Malo is built

on a rocky island at the mouth of the Rance estuary.

This strategic position has fared the city well

throughout it's history, giving it control of the sea

and river-based trade heading inland.

In 1590 the town declared itself an Independent Republic,

their motto was "Neither French or Breton,

"but Corsaire am I."

The status didn't stick for more than four years,

but it was long enough to earn it's residents

a strong reputation as rebels.

Much of their wealth in the 16th to 18th centuries came

from the intrepid fisherman who crossed the Atlantic

to Newfoundland to fish Cod.

Trade with England and the Americas also flourished.

(gentle music)

The settlement flourished financially during this time,

but not only through trade and fishing.

The towns most profitable business by far came

from the Corsairs harassment and looting

of British and Dutch ships

with the blessings of the King of France.

However, the days of Corsaire piracy are long gone

and Saint-Malo's port now makes much of it's wealth

from the million visitors a year from England

and around the world.

(gentle music)

Further up the estuary we come

to the Rance Tidal Power Station.

At 330 meters long and using a series of reversible turbines

to extract energy from the incoming and outgoing tides,

this was the worlds first facility of this kind,

constructed in 1966.

France's lack of fossil fuels

and natural gas forced the nation to deal

with renewable energy solutions long before the rest

of Europe gave it any thought.

Now we move offshore from the westernmost tip of Brittany

to the small archipelago of Brehat.

(gentle music)

It has been occupied ever since neolithic times

and the individual islands were just a series

of peaks connected by valleys.

But as the seas rose around the archipelago,

allowing the waters of the gulf stream to weave through,

an attractive microclimate was created.

Brehat is considerably warmer than the mainland

and subtropical plants that are more common

to the Mediterranean like palm trees

and eucalyptus thrive here.

(gentle music)

It has also been a coveted strategic military point

for many hundreds of years, resulting in sieges

and invasions throughout it's history.

It's many occupants have, over time,

created a landscape rich in history.

Ancient stone constructions and other relics

of the past are woven seamlessly

throughout the modern dwellings.

(gentle music)

The islands have a population of roughly 500,

but they attract plenty of visitors every year,

being only 10 miles on a short ferry ride

from the nearest town, Paimpol.

Thanks to the Portuguese trade and demand for Cod,

the fisherman of Paimpol were rated alongside those

of Saint-Malo as the hardiest most adventurous in France.

They made hazardous expeditions to Iceland

and onward to Newfoundland which was

at that time referred to as the Island of Cod.

And as the name suggests it's waters

were absolutely teeming with the coveted fish.

Gills and these grew up around the trade

and soon there was so much money in the business,

that the kings of both France and England

were charging tithes on the sale of Cod.

(gentle music)

Now, at the southwestern end of the English Channel

and at the southern limit of Celtic Sea,

is a body water notorious for treacherous sea faring.

But despite it's reputation over 50,000 ships a year

still pass this way, so it's understandable

why the waterway requires a path of lighthouses.

Erected on the Isle of Ushant,

the Creac'h Lighthouse boasts one

of the most powerful beams in the world,

reaching 300 kilometers out to sea.

(gentle music)

Established in 1863 and electrified in 1888,

it has been keeping watch over this sealane for 150 years.

(gentle music)

But despite having such a powerful lighthouse,

serious accidents still occurred.

Most notable is the tragedy

of the steamship Drummond Castle.

250 passengers perished as the ship shattered

on rocks in 1896.

Soon afterwards in 1911, the Jument Lighthouse,

which stands 300 meters off the coast

of Ushant was constructed.

But it wasn't till much later that it achieved global fame.

During the violent storms of 1989,

photographer Jean Guichard captured a unique moment

that grabbed the public imagination the world over.

What made the photo compelling was the tiny figure

of a lighthouse keeper standing on the base oblivious

to a colossal wave breaking from behind.

Fortunately, the man survived and the photograph went on

to become one of the most reproduced lighthouse images

of all time.

As treacherous as these waters are,

they've provided essential passage for military

and trade since medieval times.

Harbor towns grew along this coast,

but few have been as strategically vital as Brest.

Today it's naval base enforces a strict exclusion zone

for civilian aircraft, but it's importance

for warfare goes back centuries.

This reputation led to the town suffering dearly

in World War II, after the Germans established it as one

of it's major U-boat bases.

As a result it was one of the most bombed regions in France.

Germany paid reparations to the destitute

and homeless citizens of Brest after the war

and the city is still a significant naval center

for the French.

At the head of Brest Harbor, spanning the mouth

of the Elorn River are the Plougastel and l'Iroise bridges.

(gentle music)

The cable-stayed bridge in the foreground, Plougastel,

was built in the late 90's

to supplement the arch supported l'Iroise seen behind.

This older 1930's bridge is now used

for pedestrians, cyclists, and slower vehicles.

On the way to our next destination,

we head deeper into Brittany.

(gentle music)

One of Frances leading vegetable growing regions,

it is also known for it's countryside,

whiskey, beer, and honey mead production.

(gentle music)

This is the city of Concarneau.

(gentle music)

It is one of Frances most important fishing ports

to this day.

With over a 100,000 tons

of Tuna caught each year by boats departing from here.

Along with fishing, the establishment of canneries

and boat building firms were driven by

the industrial revolution and continue

to comprise a large sector of the local economy.

(gentle music)

The most prominent feature here, without a doubt,

is the V, or fortified town, around which the rest

of the city is spread as it has grown.

(gentle music)

The walls were built in the 14th century

and have been successful time and again

in repelling invaders.

(gentle music)

The town within has a completely separate feel

from the rest of the city as it is packed full

of narrow streets, restaurants, and antique shops.

(gentle music)

Still on Brittany's southern coast

and just outside the small town of Carnac,

are these fields of megalithic structures.

Thought to be erected by pre-Celtic peoples

around 6,000 years ago,

there is still disagreement regarding their original intent.

Some researchers insist the 3,000 standing stones

are aligned in the direction

of the rising sun during the summer solstice.

Others simply believe they are something like gravestones,

memorials erected to the memory of the dead.

One particularly controversial theory asserts

that they are laid where seismic fault lines would have run

during neolithic times.

A local legend, which hasn't garnered

much scientific support, insists the structures are

the remains of a Roman legion turned

to stone by the Arthurian magician Merlin.

(gentle music)

Re-erected in an upright position by Zacharie La Rouzic

in 1900, this one is known as The Giant.

Towering at 6.5 meters.

(gentle music)

And finally, we return to the Brittany shores,

just east of the stones for a quick visit

to the seaside key at La Trinite-sur-Mer.

The town is renowned for it yachting traditions

and sailing competitions.

The floating harbor is placed at the bottom

of an estuary with enough space to accommodate the craft

that converge here from around the world.

(gentle music)

A wonderfully picturesque place to end this journey.

(gentle music)

(upbeat music)

(thudding)

(whooshing)