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(upbeat music)
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(upbeat music)
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- Our journey
begins along the Normandy coast
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at Omaha Beach, the bloodiest
site on the D-Day landings
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of World War II.
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We continue west and across
the Contentin Peninsula
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to Granville, a fortified medieval city.
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Further along the coast,
perched on an isolated island
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in the sea is Mont
Saint-Michel, a medieval abbey
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that once drew pilgrim
monks from around Europe.
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Then on to d'Ouessant on
the western tip of Brittany,
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where iconic lighthouses
protected the busy sea lanes
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for hundreds of years.
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We'll attempt to unravel the mystery
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of the 3,000 neolithic stones
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outside the small town of Carnac.
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And finally, end our
journey in La Trinite,
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the famous port town that drew sailors
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from around the world to it's shores.
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This 360 miles stretch
of Normandy coastline
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has forever served as a natural frontier,
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dividing France and
it's neighbor, Britain.
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And sadly, the golden
beaches still hold memories
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of countless bloody battles.
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After the Norman conquest of England,
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this coast was subjected to, more or less,
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ongoing conflict over eight centuries.
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Culminating in the D-Day
landings of World War II
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that sought to liberate
France from Nazi occupation.
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The beach head, outside
the town of Arromanches,
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was one of the landing sites
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for the allied invasions
on June 6th, 1944.
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In just one day 300,000 British
troops were unloaded here
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with 2.5 million more soldiers arriving
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over the next hundred days.
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The Allied Forces
reasoned that only 10 days
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in the year was suitable for a
massive landing of this sort.
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During the convergence of a full moon
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to illuminate the way for air forces,
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and a spring tide to provide
the deepest water possible
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for ground forces to wade ashore.
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(gentle music)
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It was here that that the
Mulberry Harbor was utilized,
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the remains of which are
still scattered about.
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It consisted of a series
of breakwaters, caissons,
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and floating piers constructed in England
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and brought across the channel.
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Metamorphosing on the day of the assault
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into a sprawling harbor that
spanned the entire beachfront.
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Dwight D. Eisenhower, the
commander of the Allied Invasion,
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deemed it necessary to
overwhelm this entire coast
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as quickly and with as much
force as possible in order
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to fully utilize the element of surprise.
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What resulted was the largest
amphibian invasion ever
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to take place in human history.
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Hitler had expected such an invasion
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and ordered the construction
of what became known
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as the Atlantic War.
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A series of gun turrets
built into the cliffs
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with barbed wire and landmines
scattered along the beaches.
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Some historians believe the German leader
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would have been successful
in repelling the invasion
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if he had taken his generals advice
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and deployed more tank
units at the beach fronts.
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His failure to do so was caused
by Ally deception tactics
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which convinced him
the invasion would come
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from the Straits of Dover.
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Hitler continued to believe this,
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even after the Allied
Forces had already begun
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their invasion of Normandy.
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(upbeat music)
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As we make our way down the coast,
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we pass by Port-en-Bessin.
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This fishing town of
2,000 people is positioned
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between the beaches that
we used in the landing
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of the two largest
invasion forces on D-Day.
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(seagull cawing)
(gentle music)
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It also played a major role
immediately afterwards,
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functioning as the head
end of a fuel pipeline
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that serviced the arriving
troops and vehicles.
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Now we arrive at Omaha Beach,
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where over 300,000 American
soldiers were landed on D-Day.
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After a series of misfortunes
it was this invasion force
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that suffered the most
casualties on that day.
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Firstly, a makeshift harbor
was totally destroyed
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in a storm beforehand and
so soldiers were landed
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in the water and had to wade to the beach,
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making them easy targets
for German gunners.
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To compound this, the enemy defenses
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were four times heavier than anticipated.
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This cemetery was established
by American forces
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on June 8, 1944, two
days after the invasion.
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The land was granted to the United States,
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without charge or tax,
by the French government.
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It contains the graves
of the 9,387 soldiers
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that died on June 6th and
the two days following.
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(gentle music)
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Most of those killed were
among the first soldiers
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to arrive, landed in order
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to dismantle the defense perimeter
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so that troops landing later
would have easy access.
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(gentle music)
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All though the casualties
were high the perseverance
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of the individuals of these
first landings resulted
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in the securing of two isolated footholds
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which allowed access inland.
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German defenses ended at the beachfront
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and so once the forces had
infiltrated the first line,
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it was a simpler task to
storm the rest of the base.
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Bunkers positioned on these
cliffs at Pointe du Hoc,
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were situated between
Omaha and Utah beaches,
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two important D-Day landing points,
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and so was strategically important
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for the Allies to capture.
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A force of 225 Rangers were tasked
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with scaling the 30 meter
cliff using grapnels,
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ropes, and storming the
emplacements seen here.
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Despite the lack of surprise,
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the small force was able
to take the bunkers.
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Though, by the time
reinforcements arrived,
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only a hundred men of the
initial landing were left alive.
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Situated on the left bank
of the Dives River estuary,
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Utah Beach was the
westernmost landing point
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for the D-Day invasion forces.
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In stark contrast to the
fierce fighting at Omaha,
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there was relatively
little resistance here.
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Of the 20,000 men who were
landed, only 300 were killed.
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Nature gave a helping hand
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to this mission by
blowing the landing craft
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about two kilometers off
their intended target
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to a place where the beach
was much less fortified.
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As a result, the soldiers were able
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to take the Germans by
surprise and eventually met up
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with the 13,000 paratroopers
who were fighting their way
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from inland towards the coast.
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(gentle music)
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Now as we cross over
the Cotentin Peninsula
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we arrive at the town of Granville,
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situated in Mont Saint-Michel Bay.
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The English Channel is known
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for it's strong tides
and treacherous winds,
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but this old fishing
village is largely sheltered
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and so is a significant hub
of cross channel transit.
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Though, at times past, it's
proximity to England caused it
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to be the site of constant warfare.
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It was fortified by the English
in the Hundred Years War.
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It passed between the two
nations a number of times
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before coming securely into
the hands of the French.
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The upper part of the town, seen here,
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is surrounded still by
the original ramparts,
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which served to resist many bloody sieges.
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Further down the coast we arrive
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at the famous Mont Saint-Michel.
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This rocky tidal island
sits just over one kilometer
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from the mainland and has
a total population of 44.
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The monastery dates
back to the 8th century
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and is dedicated to
the archangel, Michael,
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who is attributed with
tossing Lucifer into Hell.
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It was a popular pilgrimage
site for monks in medieval times
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and infamous for the dangerous access
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as it could be only reached
across the causeway at low tide.
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As a result, the place was nicknamed
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Sir Michael in peril of the sea.
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The monastery gained much wealth
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in the 11th century by siding
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with William of Normandy
in his conquest of England.
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It was from this point on that
the surrounding buildings,
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cloisters, and abbey were built.
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This site and the surrounding bay are
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now UNESCO Heritage Site, attracting more
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than three million visitors a year.
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The tides here are notoriously
unpredictable and fast
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with Victor Hugo once comparing them
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to a swiftly galloping horse.
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Mont Saint-Michel Bay is now
famous for oysters and muscles.
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As we cross the border
and leave Normandy behind,
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we reach the town Cancale,
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widely known as the oyster
capital of Brittany.
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(upbeat music)
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King Louis XIV had his oysters
delivered to Versailles
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from this place in the 18th century.
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He valued the shellfish
from this region so much
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that he ordered a conservation campaign
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to strictly regulate dredging
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so as to keep the natural stock
in constant steady supply.
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15,000 tons of oysters are
produced here each year.
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And just outside the town on
Cancale is Rimains Island.
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It was built up as a sea
fort in the 18th century
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to protect the western side
of Mont Saint-Michel Bay.
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One of the mot active engineers
of the French enlightenment,
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the Marquis de Vauban, designed the fort.
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As of 2012 the island and structures
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were on the open market.
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The densely packed history of Brittany,
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from the neolithic settlers
to the Celts, Romans,
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and Gauls are a big draw for visitors.
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Perhaps the most appealing aspects
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of the region are it's moderate climate
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and beautiful beaches.
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The only common complaint is of the rain
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to which locals have the response,
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"In Brittany it only rains on idiots."
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Moving along the coast we
arrive at Guesclin Fort,
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built in 1026 the original
structure consisted
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of three towers and a dungeon.
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Taken by the English 200 years later,
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the fort then passed
hands a number of times.
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During the enlightenment
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the ambiguous Marquis de
Vauban reinforced the complex
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as a measure against English invasions.
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The fort was again used for defense by
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the Germans during World War II,
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after which it fell into disrepair.
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It's now restored and open
to visitors in the summer.
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The fortified city of Saint-Malo is built
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on a rocky island at the
mouth of the Rance estuary.
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This strategic position
has fared the city well
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throughout it's history,
giving it control of the sea
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and river-based trade heading inland.
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In 1590 the town declared
itself an Independent Republic,
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their motto was "Neither French or Breton,
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"but Corsaire am I."
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The status didn't stick
for more than four years,
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but it was long enough
to earn it's residents
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a strong reputation as rebels.
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Much of their wealth in the
16th to 18th centuries came
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from the intrepid fisherman
who crossed the Atlantic
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to Newfoundland to fish Cod.
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Trade with England and the
Americas also flourished.
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(gentle music)
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The settlement flourished
financially during this time,
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but not only through trade and fishing.
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The towns most profitable
business by far came
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from the Corsairs harassment and looting
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of British and Dutch ships
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with the blessings of the King of France.
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However, the days of
Corsaire piracy are long gone
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and Saint-Malo's port now
makes much of it's wealth
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from the million visitors
a year from England
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and around the world.
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(gentle music)
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Further up the estuary we come
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to the Rance Tidal Power Station.
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At 330 meters long and using a
series of reversible turbines
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to extract energy from the
incoming and outgoing tides,
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this was the worlds first
facility of this kind,
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constructed in 1966.
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France's lack of fossil fuels
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and natural gas forced the nation to deal
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with renewable energy
solutions long before the rest
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of Europe gave it any thought.
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00:16:11,840 --> 00:16:15,370
Now we move offshore from the
westernmost tip of Brittany
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00:16:15,370 --> 00:16:18,048
to the small archipelago of Brehat.
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00:16:18,048 --> 00:16:20,631
(gentle music)
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00:16:22,710 --> 00:16:26,240
It has been occupied ever
since neolithic times
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00:16:26,240 --> 00:16:28,640
and the individual
islands were just a series
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00:16:28,640 --> 00:16:30,973
of peaks connected by valleys.
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00:16:32,620 --> 00:16:35,540
But as the seas rose
around the archipelago,
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00:16:35,540 --> 00:16:39,050
allowing the waters of the
gulf stream to weave through,
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00:16:39,050 --> 00:16:41,783
an attractive microclimate was created.
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00:16:45,434 --> 00:16:48,370
Brehat is considerably
warmer than the mainland
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00:16:48,370 --> 00:16:50,650
and subtropical plants
that are more common
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00:16:50,650 --> 00:16:53,010
to the Mediterranean like palm trees
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00:16:53,010 --> 00:16:55,245
and eucalyptus thrive here.
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00:16:55,245 --> 00:16:57,828
(gentle music)
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00:16:59,920 --> 00:17:03,020
It has also been a coveted
strategic military point
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00:17:03,020 --> 00:17:06,420
for many hundreds of
years, resulting in sieges
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00:17:06,420 --> 00:17:09,340
and invasions throughout it's history.
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00:17:09,340 --> 00:17:11,710
It's many occupants have, over time,
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created a landscape rich in history.
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00:17:14,730 --> 00:17:17,230
Ancient stone constructions
and other relics
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00:17:17,230 --> 00:17:20,000
of the past are woven seamlessly
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00:17:20,000 --> 00:17:21,944
throughout the modern dwellings.
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00:17:21,944 --> 00:17:25,270
(gentle music)
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00:17:25,270 --> 00:17:28,250
The islands have a
population of roughly 500,
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00:17:28,250 --> 00:17:30,780
but they attract plenty
of visitors every year,
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being only 10 miles on a short ferry ride
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from the nearest town, Paimpol.
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00:17:40,440 --> 00:17:44,010
Thanks to the Portuguese
trade and demand for Cod,
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00:17:44,010 --> 00:17:47,080
the fisherman of Paimpol
were rated alongside those
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00:17:47,080 --> 00:17:51,263
of Saint-Malo as the hardiest
most adventurous in France.
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00:17:54,500 --> 00:17:57,100
They made hazardous expeditions to Iceland
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00:17:57,100 --> 00:17:59,650
and onward to Newfoundland which was
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00:17:59,650 --> 00:18:03,360
at that time referred
to as the Island of Cod.
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00:18:03,360 --> 00:18:05,870
And as the name suggests it's waters
286
00:18:05,870 --> 00:18:08,643
were absolutely teeming
with the coveted fish.
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00:18:11,410 --> 00:18:14,100
Gills and these grew up around the trade
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00:18:14,100 --> 00:18:16,650
and soon there was so much
money in the business,
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00:18:16,650 --> 00:18:18,940
that the kings of both France and England
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00:18:18,940 --> 00:18:21,873
were charging tithes on the sale of Cod.
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00:18:21,873 --> 00:18:24,540
(gentle music)
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00:18:27,750 --> 00:18:31,410
Now, at the southwestern
end of the English Channel
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00:18:31,410 --> 00:18:34,350
and at the southern limit of Celtic Sea,
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is a body water notorious
for treacherous sea faring.
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00:18:40,710 --> 00:18:44,560
But despite it's reputation
over 50,000 ships a year
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00:18:44,560 --> 00:18:47,970
still pass this way,
so it's understandable
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00:18:47,970 --> 00:18:51,313
why the waterway requires
a path of lighthouses.
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00:18:53,570 --> 00:18:55,560
Erected on the Isle of Ushant,
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the Creac'h Lighthouse boasts one
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of the most powerful beams in the world,
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reaching 300 kilometers out to sea.
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00:19:02,772 --> 00:19:06,120
(gentle music)
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00:19:06,120 --> 00:19:10,440
Established in 1863 and
electrified in 1888,
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00:19:10,440 --> 00:19:14,913
it has been keeping watch over
this sealane for 150 years.
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00:19:14,913 --> 00:19:18,330
(gentle music)
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00:19:18,330 --> 00:19:21,100
But despite having such
a powerful lighthouse,
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00:19:21,100 --> 00:19:23,800
serious accidents still occurred.
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00:19:23,800 --> 00:19:25,740
Most notable is the tragedy
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00:19:25,740 --> 00:19:28,356
of the steamship Drummond Castle.
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250 passengers perished
as the ship shattered
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00:19:32,370 --> 00:19:34,703
on rocks in 1896.
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00:19:36,970 --> 00:19:40,910
Soon afterwards in 1911,
the Jument Lighthouse,
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00:19:40,910 --> 00:19:43,080
which stands 300 meters off the coast
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00:19:43,080 --> 00:19:45,053
of Ushant was constructed.
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00:19:47,120 --> 00:19:51,480
But it wasn't till much later
that it achieved global fame.
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00:19:51,480 --> 00:19:54,215
During the violent storms of 1989,
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00:19:54,215 --> 00:19:58,200
photographer Jean Guichard
captured a unique moment
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00:19:58,200 --> 00:20:01,203
that grabbed the public
imagination the world over.
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00:20:02,530 --> 00:20:05,670
What made the photo
compelling was the tiny figure
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00:20:05,670 --> 00:20:09,530
of a lighthouse keeper
standing on the base oblivious
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00:20:09,530 --> 00:20:12,293
to a colossal wave breaking from behind.
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00:20:13,560 --> 00:20:17,350
Fortunately, the man survived
and the photograph went on
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00:20:17,350 --> 00:20:20,094
to become one of the most
reproduced lighthouse images
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00:20:20,094 --> 00:20:21,293
of all time.
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00:20:25,640 --> 00:20:28,260
As treacherous as these waters are,
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00:20:28,260 --> 00:20:30,830
they've provided essential
passage for military
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00:20:30,830 --> 00:20:33,333
and trade since medieval times.
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00:20:36,430 --> 00:20:38,760
Harbor towns grew along this coast,
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00:20:38,760 --> 00:20:42,503
but few have been as
strategically vital as Brest.
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00:20:44,040 --> 00:20:47,720
Today it's naval base enforces
a strict exclusion zone
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00:20:47,720 --> 00:20:50,180
for civilian aircraft, but it's importance
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00:20:50,180 --> 00:20:52,623
for warfare goes back centuries.
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00:20:55,060 --> 00:20:58,220
This reputation led to
the town suffering dearly
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00:20:58,220 --> 00:21:02,090
in World War II, after the
Germans established it as one
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00:21:02,090 --> 00:21:04,253
of it's major U-boat bases.
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00:21:05,240 --> 00:21:09,013
As a result it was one of the
most bombed regions in France.
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00:21:10,660 --> 00:21:13,110
Germany paid reparations to the destitute
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00:21:13,110 --> 00:21:16,153
and homeless citizens
of Brest after the war
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00:21:16,153 --> 00:21:19,630
and the city is still a
significant naval center
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00:21:19,630 --> 00:21:20,483
for the French.
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00:21:25,120 --> 00:21:27,620
At the head of Brest
Harbor, spanning the mouth
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00:21:27,620 --> 00:21:31,689
of the Elorn River are the
Plougastel and l'Iroise bridges.
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00:21:31,689 --> 00:21:35,000
(gentle music)
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The cable-stayed bridge in
the foreground, Plougastel,
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00:21:38,260 --> 00:21:39,890
was built in the late 90's
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00:21:39,890 --> 00:21:44,340
to supplement the arch
supported l'Iroise seen behind.
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00:21:44,340 --> 00:21:47,430
This older 1930's bridge is now used
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00:21:47,430 --> 00:21:51,123
for pedestrians, cyclists,
and slower vehicles.
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00:21:54,760 --> 00:21:56,830
On the way to our next destination,
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we head deeper into Brittany.
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00:21:59,012 --> 00:22:01,679
(gentle music)
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00:22:02,730 --> 00:22:05,500
One of Frances leading
vegetable growing regions,
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00:22:05,500 --> 00:22:07,550
it is also known for it's countryside,
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00:22:07,550 --> 00:22:10,603
whiskey, beer, and honey mead production.
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00:22:10,603 --> 00:22:13,186
(gentle music)
356
00:22:19,840 --> 00:22:22,470
This is the city of Concarneau.
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00:22:22,470 --> 00:22:25,137
(gentle music)
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00:22:26,560 --> 00:22:29,150
It is one of Frances most
important fishing ports
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00:22:29,150 --> 00:22:30,330
to this day.
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00:22:30,330 --> 00:22:32,130
With over a 100,000 tons
361
00:22:32,130 --> 00:22:35,933
of Tuna caught each year by
boats departing from here.
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00:22:38,810 --> 00:22:41,820
Along with fishing, the
establishment of canneries
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00:22:41,820 --> 00:22:44,210
and boat building firms were driven by
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00:22:44,210 --> 00:22:46,900
the industrial revolution and continue
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00:22:46,900 --> 00:22:49,966
to comprise a large sector
of the local economy.
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00:22:49,966 --> 00:22:53,220
(gentle music)
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00:22:53,220 --> 00:22:55,460
The most prominent feature
here, without a doubt,
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00:22:55,460 --> 00:22:59,520
is the V, or fortified
town, around which the rest
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00:22:59,520 --> 00:23:02,217
of the city is spread as it has grown.
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00:23:02,217 --> 00:23:04,800
(gentle music)
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00:23:05,670 --> 00:23:08,140
The walls were built in the 14th century
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00:23:08,140 --> 00:23:10,620
and have been successful time and again
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00:23:10,620 --> 00:23:12,200
in repelling invaders.
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00:23:12,200 --> 00:23:14,850
(gentle music)
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00:23:14,850 --> 00:23:17,920
The town within has a
completely separate feel
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00:23:17,920 --> 00:23:20,860
from the rest of the
city as it is packed full
377
00:23:20,860 --> 00:23:24,500
of narrow streets,
restaurants, and antique shops.
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00:23:24,500 --> 00:23:27,083
(gentle music)
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00:23:31,220 --> 00:23:33,350
Still on Brittany's southern coast
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00:23:33,350 --> 00:23:36,573
and just outside the small town of Carnac,
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00:23:36,573 --> 00:23:39,693
are these fields of megalithic structures.
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00:23:41,910 --> 00:23:44,240
Thought to be erected
by pre-Celtic peoples
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00:23:44,240 --> 00:23:46,660
around 6,000 years ago,
384
00:23:46,660 --> 00:23:50,093
there is still disagreement
regarding their original intent.
385
00:23:52,540 --> 00:23:56,388
Some researchers insist
the 3,000 standing stones
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00:23:56,388 --> 00:23:58,120
are aligned in the direction
387
00:23:58,120 --> 00:24:01,193
of the rising sun during
the summer solstice.
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00:24:02,290 --> 00:24:05,950
Others simply believe they are
something like gravestones,
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00:24:05,950 --> 00:24:08,583
memorials erected to
the memory of the dead.
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00:24:09,650 --> 00:24:12,780
One particularly
controversial theory asserts
391
00:24:12,780 --> 00:24:16,110
that they are laid where seismic
fault lines would have run
392
00:24:16,110 --> 00:24:17,833
during neolithic times.
393
00:24:20,150 --> 00:24:22,220
A local legend, which hasn't garnered
394
00:24:22,220 --> 00:24:25,600
much scientific support,
insists the structures are
395
00:24:25,600 --> 00:24:27,720
the remains of a Roman legion turned
396
00:24:27,720 --> 00:24:31,840
to stone by the Arthurian magician Merlin.
397
00:24:31,840 --> 00:24:34,507
(gentle music)
398
00:24:39,310 --> 00:24:42,870
Re-erected in an upright
position by Zacharie La Rouzic
399
00:24:42,870 --> 00:24:47,090
in 1900, this one is known as The Giant.
400
00:24:47,090 --> 00:24:49,598
Towering at 6.5 meters.
401
00:24:49,598 --> 00:24:52,181
(gentle music)
402
00:25:00,000 --> 00:25:03,100
And finally, we return
to the Brittany shores,
403
00:25:03,100 --> 00:25:05,650
just east of the stones for a quick visit
404
00:25:05,650 --> 00:25:08,913
to the seaside key at La Trinite-sur-Mer.
405
00:25:09,990 --> 00:25:12,970
The town is renowned for
it yachting traditions
406
00:25:12,970 --> 00:25:14,653
and sailing competitions.
407
00:25:15,890 --> 00:25:18,310
The floating harbor is
placed at the bottom
408
00:25:18,310 --> 00:25:21,440
of an estuary with enough
space to accommodate the craft
409
00:25:21,440 --> 00:25:24,012
that converge here from around the world.
410
00:25:24,012 --> 00:25:26,700
(gentle music)
411
00:25:26,700 --> 00:25:30,914
A wonderfully picturesque
place to end this journey.
412
00:25:30,914 --> 00:25:33,581
(gentle music)
413
00:25:34,890 --> 00:25:37,473
(upbeat music)
414
00:26:08,162 --> 00:26:11,187
(thudding)
415
00:26:11,187 --> 00:26:13,604
(whooshing)
33398
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