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(wind whirling)
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(upbeat music)
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(lively music)
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(light music)
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- Our journey
begins at the east entrance
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of Yellowstone National Park,
exploring Yellowstone Lake.
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We continue tracking the Yellowstone River
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and catch our first glimpse of the park's
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geothermal features in
the Mud Volcano area.
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As we look north, we
discover why the views
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of the Upper and Lower Falls
had such a dramatic impact
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on the park's creation.
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Following the Grand Canyon of Yellowstone,
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we head to the open
planes of Lamar Valley.
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At the northwest corner
of Wyoming we understand
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why the park is a national treasure,
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starting with the Mammoth Hot Springs.
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Venturing southward, exploring
the geothermal basins
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of the Yellowstone crater,
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we arrive at its most
famous feature, Old Faithful
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in time for a spectacular
finale to our journey.
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(tinkling music)
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With five entrances to
Yellowstone National Park,
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we approach from the east, following
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along the Shoshone River
in the Wapiti Valley,
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about 80 kilometers from Cody, Wyoming.
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Because of the weather restrictions,
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the east entrance to the
Yellowstone Park remains open
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only from May to November.
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On entering the park, there's a glimpse
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of the towering peaks
of the Absaroka Range
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of the Rocky Mountains.
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Yellowstone, which became the
world's first national park
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in 1872, hosts over three
million visitors a year.
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(light music)
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Access to the park from
the east is made possible
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by the Sylvan Pass, maintained
to allow winter travel
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by snowmobile or snow coach.
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It was named after Sylvan Lake
which rests along the route.
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As we continue along the pass,
we come to Yellowstone Lake,
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the largest body of water in the park.
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Its basin is part of the massive
Yellowstone crater carved
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from the volcanic eruptions
over 600,000 years ago.
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(birds twittering)
(summery music)
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Yellowstone offers a splendid habitat
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for over 60 species of large mammals.
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Here we spot a small herd of elk.
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00:03:44,830 --> 00:03:48,583
The park hosts an
estimated 30,000 in total.
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The lake's northern tip is where its fed
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and drained by Yellowstone River.
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00:03:58,380 --> 00:04:01,300
A fishing bridge crosses
at this meeting point,
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a spawning area for the
native cutthroat trout.
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00:04:05,210 --> 00:04:08,893
And nearby is a popular
recreational vehicle park.
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Visitors wanting less
rustic accommodation stay
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at the historic Lake Hotel.
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Originally built in the late 19th century,
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the hotel was restored to
its 1920s grandeur in 1990.
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The Yellowstone River is a main tributary
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of the Missouri River, and drains nearly
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a 1100 kilometer stretch of the Rockies.
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Within the park, the river
is used recreationally
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for flatboat fishing.
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The words, "Yellow stone" were recorded
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by Lewis and Clark during
their famous expedition
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after meeting with the Minitari Indians
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near the river in 1805.
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North along the river we
enter the mud volcano area.
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These formations are
created from a geo-excretion
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of iron and hydrogen
sulfide, which results
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in a dark gray color and rotten egg smell.
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(majestic music)
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Flowing north out of Hayden Valley,
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the first signs of rapids are present
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as the Yellowstone River begins its decent
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toward the park's Grand Canyon.
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(water rushing)
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The river first cascades
at the Upper Falls,
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dropping about 33 meters.
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Spectacular viewing
points along the trails
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on either side of the
canyon, makes this one
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of the favorite places in
the park among visitors.
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And it's yet another example
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of how Yellowstone's landscape was shaped
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from volcanic events 600,000 years ago.
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The Upper Falls marks a junction
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where a hard lava flow met
with a softer altered flow.
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In 1871, Dr. Ferdinand
Hayden, whose name was given
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to the valley, led a US geological survey
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into the unexplored Yellowstone region.
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Joining the expedition were photographer
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William Henry Jackson
and artist, Thomas Moran.
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Their photographs and
paintings of the falls captured
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the nation's attention
and inspired congress
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to establish the national
park a year later.
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The Yellowstone River continues to flow
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another half kilometer before
taking a much bigger plunge
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that will take it to the
mouth of the Grand Canyon.
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The Lower Falls drop 94 meters
and is the tallest waterfall
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in the park, nearly twice
the height of Niagara Falls.
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It's also the largest volume
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of falling water in the Rocky Mountains.
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And this is the famous
vantage point along the canyon
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that was immortalized
in the famous painting
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by Thomas Moran, which now
hangs in the White House.
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It was these majestic
falls that were the subject
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of the almost mythic accounts composed
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by prospectors venturing
into the Montana territory
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in the mid 19th century.
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Frontier newspapers printed claims
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that the falls were
thousands of feet high,
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and referred to it as the
most sublime spot on earth.
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(light music)
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Two scenic routes of Grand
Loop Road offer breathtaking
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views of the canyon such as
Point Sublime on the south rim.
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The other viewpoints take
visitors to the absolute brink
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of the Upper and Lower Falls,
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offering them a riveting encounter
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with the powerful cascades.
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Some 10,000 years after
the volcanic eruptions
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in Yellowstone, lava
flow filled the region.
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One of these was a canyon lava flow,
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leaving a thermal basin
shaped from the hot steam
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00:08:35,340 --> 00:08:39,180
and gasses that altered
and weakened the lava.
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00:08:39,180 --> 00:08:43,570
Other flows blocked lakes
and created overflowing lakes
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that further molded
the Yellowstone canyon.
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(light upbeat music)
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The park contains several
broad, open valleys,
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such as the Lamar Valley in
the park's northeast corner.
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Packhorse treks are very popular
for guided camping tours.
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Organized trips can
last as long as 10 days
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as visitors venture into the heart
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of Yellowstone's tranquil wilderness.
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Lamar Valley and the river stretches
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for almost 10 kilometers
from its confluence
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with the Yellowstone River,
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just below the Grand
Canyon to its junction
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with the Soda Butte Creek tributary.
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A true treasure of Yellowstone,
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the valley is remarkable in its scenery.
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But it was also the stage for one
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of the most significant
wildlife conservation projects,
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the recovery of the American bison.
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(somber music)
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In 1903, there were less
than 50 bison in the park.
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A century later, the
population was nearly 5,000.
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The Yellowstone Park
bison herd is one of four
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in North America that are free
roaming and genetically pure.
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27 kilometers north of the canyon,
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the small creek shoots
off the Yellowstone River
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and flows south to the
park's third notable cascade,
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Tower Fall, which stands 40 meters tall.
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Named for the volcanic
formations that surround it,
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the park offers a breathtaking view
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from an overlook that
draws visitors in droves.
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Flying northwest, we pass
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over the Roosevelt Lodge history district.
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Originally built in 1919
as an education center,
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the lodge offers guests
rustic accommodation
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and horseback tours,
exploring the area's wildlife.
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The area was named in honor
of President Teddy Roosevelt
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who camped near the site
prior to its construction.
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Here we witness another
popular tourist attraction.
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Stagecoach rides.
(coach rattling)
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Once the primary mode of
transportation for guests,
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who'd traverse the parks
for days along dusty roads,
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stagecoaches offer a nostalgic adventure
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through the sage-covered
fields of Pleasant Valley.
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We are fortunate to capture
a rarely seen resident
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of Yellowstone, the black bear.
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The park actually has a sizable population
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as opposed to the estimated
mere 300 grizzlies
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that take residence in the park.
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Although this bear is
seen in the open meadow,
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black bears are usually
found in timber areas.
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In our journey across the
northern valleys of Yellowstone,
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we observe a playful bison.
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These animals are quite
nomadic, migrating high
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to these grassy plateaus
in the summer to mate.
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They are vegetarians,
grazing on the grasslands
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and the meadows and foothills
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as well as during the colder seasons.
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Bison are the biggest
of the park's animals,
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and it is believed that the
Yellowstone bison habitat is the
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only one in America to have
existed since prehistoric times.
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Elk are high elevation mammals,
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and are more often seen
in the early morning
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or late afternoon in the summers,
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grazing on the grasses of the meadows.
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In 1988, wildfires damaged
36 percent of the park.
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These areas eventually became a habitat
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for the elk as lush vegetation developed.
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For this reason, they also
graze in areas recently logged.
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The elk bulls are symbolized
by their beautiful antlers.
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The rack may have six to
eight branches on each side,
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and weigh more than 13 kilos.
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By March or April of each year the bull
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completely sheds its antlers then begins
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to regrow them starting
in May until August.
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And nearby the Gardner River cuts
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through the rugged Sheepeater Canyon,
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named after the Sheepeater Indians,
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who are believed to have
used these cliff edges
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to herd and trap game.
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Today a spectacular trail
along the canyon brings hikers
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to one of Yellowstone's best
kept secrets, the Osprey Falls.
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Nestled in the narrow
gorge, the spray created
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by the waterfall provides
a welcome cooling mist
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for visitors on a hot summer's day.
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(majestic music)
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The park sits on a plateau
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at an average height of 2400 meters.
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Bound by mountains that
soar as high as 3300 meters.
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Often the plateau fills with clouds,
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setting a very enchanting
tone for the visitors.
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(flowery music)
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Nestled between Mount
Everts and the Mammoth area,
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about eight kilometers
from the north entrance,
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is Yellowstone Park's headquarters.
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A series of red roof buildings constructed
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in the late 1800s and early 1900s.
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For most of its early
existence as a national park,
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Yellowstone was operated
by the US cavalry,
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00:15:23,510 --> 00:15:27,893
with this area serving as
an Army post for 32 years.
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The stone buildings house 400 occupants.
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00:15:34,040 --> 00:15:37,360
In 1918 the Army turned
over control of the park
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to civilians who have
maintained Fort Yellowstone
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as the park's headquarters ever since.
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The historic Army buildings now serve
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as offices and resident housing.
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00:15:50,480 --> 00:15:52,690
Additionally, there is a medical clinic,
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and the Albright museum
which chronicles a history
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of the park's residents.
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00:16:01,280 --> 00:16:04,880
Adjacent to the Fort Yellowstone
district lies a magical
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white hillside, blanketed
in calcium carbonate.
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(soothing music)
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This geothermal wonder of nature,
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the Mammoth Hot Springs,
is a large complex
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of limestone terraces, appearing in white,
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00:16:20,860 --> 00:16:23,223
tan and cream colored varieties.
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00:16:26,210 --> 00:16:29,450
A circuit a boardwalks
and stairs allow explorers
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to navigate through
the impressive displays
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00:16:32,020 --> 00:16:34,253
of step-like sedimentary rock.
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Each of these formations
exhibits individual character,
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such as the now extinct Liberty Cap,
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00:16:45,200 --> 00:16:49,350
a 14 meter cone formed
from hot water emanating
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from a single source.
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00:16:52,030 --> 00:16:54,697
(water gushing)
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00:16:55,720 --> 00:16:59,040
As heated water from the
Norris Geyser Basin moves
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00:16:59,040 --> 00:17:01,830
through a fault line and
escapes the earth's surface
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00:17:01,830 --> 00:17:03,690
through cracks and fissures,
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00:17:03,690 --> 00:17:07,103
dissolved limestone is
deposited onto the terraces.
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Over 1800 kilos of calcium carbonate flow
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into Mammoth each day.
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00:17:16,620 --> 00:17:20,510
The yellow, orange and brown
terraces get their color
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00:17:20,510 --> 00:17:23,903
from bacteria that are
able to grow in the waters.
256
00:17:28,330 --> 00:17:31,530
We exit the northwest
region of Yellowstone
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00:17:31,530 --> 00:17:34,480
and continue our journey moving south,
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00:17:34,480 --> 00:17:36,643
back towards the crater rim.
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00:17:37,490 --> 00:17:40,400
It's here that we'll explore a basin
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00:17:40,400 --> 00:17:42,963
that boasts the park's
highest temperatures.
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00:17:45,220 --> 00:17:47,530
The extreme thermal conditions
262
00:17:47,530 --> 00:17:49,680
of the Norris Geyser Basin result
263
00:17:49,680 --> 00:17:52,310
from the junction of
two major fault lines,
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00:17:52,310 --> 00:17:56,630
and the ring of the fracture
zone of the Yellowstone crater.
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00:17:56,630 --> 00:17:59,820
For this reason, the
basin boasts the hottest,
266
00:17:59,820 --> 00:18:04,820
most acidic and most dynamic
thermal features in the park.
267
00:18:06,500 --> 00:18:10,110
Clear pools become
violently bubbly and muddy,
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00:18:10,110 --> 00:18:12,403
even temporarily
transforming into geysers.
269
00:18:20,770 --> 00:18:23,440
Within this basin, we see a hot spring
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00:18:23,440 --> 00:18:25,810
with prismatic characteristics,
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00:18:25,810 --> 00:18:28,860
developed from the
pigmentation of the bacteria
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00:18:28,860 --> 00:18:31,423
that grows in this mineral-rich water.
273
00:18:35,200 --> 00:18:37,520
Near the western entrance is the origin
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00:18:37,520 --> 00:18:39,920
of the Madison River at the confluence
275
00:18:39,920 --> 00:18:42,340
of Gibbon's and Firehole Rivers,
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00:18:42,340 --> 00:18:44,683
overlooked by National Park Mountain.
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00:18:44,683 --> 00:18:46,580
(flowery music)
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00:18:46,580 --> 00:18:48,880
This place is known as Madison Junction,
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00:18:48,880 --> 00:18:52,080
and legend has it that this is the site
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00:18:52,080 --> 00:18:55,540
where leaders of the
1870 Washburn Expedition
281
00:18:55,540 --> 00:18:59,070
first conceived the idea
of creating a national park
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00:18:59,070 --> 00:19:00,843
while sat around a campfire.
283
00:19:03,390 --> 00:19:07,480
Continuing south we examine
the Lower Geyser Basin
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00:19:07,480 --> 00:19:11,570
with thermal features that are
scattered in small clusters,
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00:19:11,570 --> 00:19:15,973
spread out mostly on open
meadows along the Firehole River.
286
00:19:20,230 --> 00:19:22,630
We concentrate on the fire lake
287
00:19:22,630 --> 00:19:27,510
and the fountain groups known
for its multicolored mud pots.
288
00:19:27,510 --> 00:19:29,980
The basin also delights spectators
289
00:19:29,980 --> 00:19:32,580
with its fumaroles and geysers,
290
00:19:32,580 --> 00:19:35,868
as well as bubbling pools and hot springs.
291
00:19:35,868 --> 00:19:37,680
(lively music)
292
00:19:37,680 --> 00:19:40,620
The white dome ejects water and steam
293
00:19:40,620 --> 00:19:43,773
through a six meter
high pinkish-white cone.
294
00:19:47,290 --> 00:19:51,210
The lower basin geyser has
many areas of high activity,
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00:19:51,210 --> 00:19:53,920
such as the Firehole and Hot Lakes
296
00:19:53,920 --> 00:19:56,993
which drain from a tributary
of the Firehole River.
297
00:19:59,490 --> 00:20:03,060
The aptly named Steady
Geyser is the largest,
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00:20:03,060 --> 00:20:06,983
constantly erupting geyser
in Yellowstone and the world.
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00:20:09,260 --> 00:20:12,590
The Fountain Paint Pot Group
is the most diverse cluster
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00:20:12,590 --> 00:20:15,640
of thermal features in the lower basin,
301
00:20:15,640 --> 00:20:19,417
with hot springs, mud pots,
geysers and fumaroles.
302
00:20:23,155 --> 00:20:25,600
The Clepsydra Geyser, a name derived
303
00:20:25,600 --> 00:20:28,170
from the Greek word for water clock,
304
00:20:28,170 --> 00:20:33,020
has four vents spewing water
in two different phases.
305
00:20:33,020 --> 00:20:37,493
Clepsydra's wild phase can
last three to six hours.
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00:20:42,520 --> 00:20:43,770
The other notable feature of
307
00:20:43,770 --> 00:20:46,370
this group is the Fountain Paint Pots
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00:20:46,370 --> 00:20:48,760
which derive their name from their red,
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00:20:48,760 --> 00:20:50,573
yellow and brown colors.
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00:20:51,720 --> 00:20:55,240
In the spring these mut
pots are most active
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00:20:55,240 --> 00:20:56,950
when an abundance source of water
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00:20:56,950 --> 00:21:01,600
from melted snow creates a
dancing effect in the bubbles.
313
00:21:01,600 --> 00:21:03,460
During the warmer summer months
314
00:21:03,460 --> 00:21:05,593
the mud gets drier and thicker.
315
00:21:08,810 --> 00:21:11,750
In between the Upper and
Lower Geyser Basins is the
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00:21:11,750 --> 00:21:14,670
appropriately named Midway Geyser Basin,
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00:21:14,670 --> 00:21:19,113
nicknamed Hells Half Acre, by
the writer, Rudyard Kipling.
318
00:21:20,090 --> 00:21:24,520
This is Excelsior Geyser,
once the largest in the world,
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00:21:24,520 --> 00:21:27,290
which releases 22 million liters
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00:21:27,290 --> 00:21:30,123
of water per day into Firehole River.
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00:21:34,350 --> 00:21:38,850
Excelsior is flanked by
the Grand Prismatic Spring,
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00:21:38,850 --> 00:21:40,930
the largest hot spring in the park
323
00:21:40,930 --> 00:21:43,013
and third largest in the world.
324
00:21:45,400 --> 00:21:50,383
The spring discharges over 2,000
liters of water per minute.
325
00:21:51,360 --> 00:21:55,610
The color varies at times
depending on the pigment ratio
326
00:21:55,610 --> 00:21:58,110
of the bacteria growing in the water
327
00:21:58,110 --> 00:22:00,233
as well as the water temperature.
328
00:22:02,140 --> 00:22:06,370
The deep blue color is so
intense due to the high purity
329
00:22:06,370 --> 00:22:09,090
and depth of the water in the middle.
330
00:22:09,090 --> 00:22:11,160
The Grand Prismatic Spring is yet
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00:22:11,160 --> 00:22:15,483
another famous Yellowstone
subject of artist, Thomas Moran.
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00:22:21,910 --> 00:22:24,120
Moving along to the Upper Geysers,
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00:22:24,120 --> 00:22:28,670
we focus on an isolated group
called The Black Sand Basin,
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00:22:28,670 --> 00:22:31,500
highlighted by its colorful hot springs
335
00:22:31,500 --> 00:22:34,193
such as emerald and rainbow pools.
336
00:22:35,030 --> 00:22:38,450
The basin got its name from
the black volcanic glass
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00:22:38,450 --> 00:22:40,343
that covers much of the area.
338
00:22:45,620 --> 00:22:48,580
Another famous feature of
the Upper Geysers is the
339
00:22:48,580 --> 00:22:51,617
most unusually shaped Grotto Geyser.
340
00:22:53,660 --> 00:22:55,850
The gusher formed around stumps
341
00:22:55,850 --> 00:22:57,870
of dead pine trees destroyed
342
00:22:57,870 --> 00:23:00,473
by an earthquake thousands of years ago.
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00:23:04,400 --> 00:23:07,780
With a clear view of
the Old Faithful Geyser,
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00:23:07,780 --> 00:23:10,390
the inn of the same name has operated
345
00:23:10,390 --> 00:23:13,263
as a hotel in the park since 1904.
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00:23:15,830 --> 00:23:18,330
Constructed of locally grown pine,
347
00:23:18,330 --> 00:23:20,833
it is the largest log hotel in the world.
348
00:23:22,970 --> 00:23:25,370
The foundation and the massive fireplace
349
00:23:25,370 --> 00:23:28,400
inside were made from a volcanic stone
350
00:23:28,400 --> 00:23:30,793
that is dominant in the park.
351
00:23:36,590 --> 00:23:38,290
A short walk from the historic
352
00:23:38,290 --> 00:23:40,873
inn is the Old Faithful Geyser.
353
00:23:41,900 --> 00:23:45,130
Because of its predictability,
it is quite possibly the
354
00:23:45,130 --> 00:23:48,640
most calculable geothermal
feature on the planet.
355
00:23:48,640 --> 00:23:52,480
Thus, the cone-shaped geyser
is also the most visited
356
00:23:52,480 --> 00:23:54,423
and anticipated attraction.
357
00:23:57,620 --> 00:23:59,830
Like most visitors to the park,
358
00:23:59,830 --> 00:24:03,340
the famous US Army expedition
that named Yellowstone
359
00:24:03,340 --> 00:24:06,570
in 1870 count Old Faithful
360
00:24:06,570 --> 00:24:09,630
as the first geyser they set eyes on.
361
00:24:09,630 --> 00:24:12,330
Thus, she was also the first in the park
362
00:24:12,330 --> 00:24:13,563
to receive a name.
363
00:24:15,370 --> 00:24:17,210
The best indicator among locals
364
00:24:17,210 --> 00:24:19,320
of the next eruption is to watch
365
00:24:19,320 --> 00:24:23,115
for the benches around Old
Faithful to fill and overflow.
366
00:24:23,115 --> 00:24:25,865
(exciting music)
367
00:24:34,750 --> 00:24:37,410
Old Faithful begins each performance
368
00:24:37,410 --> 00:24:40,200
with a prologue of
splashing and small-jetting
369
00:24:40,200 --> 00:24:43,400
for a period of up to 20 minutes.
370
00:24:43,400 --> 00:24:46,990
The jetting usually grows
over two to three steps
371
00:24:46,990 --> 00:24:49,213
before reaching its maximum height.
372
00:24:54,770 --> 00:24:58,020
Ranging 32 to 56 meters in height,
373
00:24:58,020 --> 00:25:02,683
it shoots out between 14 and
32 thousand liters of water.
374
00:25:06,070 --> 00:25:09,320
Predictions of Old Faithful's
next eruption are based
375
00:25:09,320 --> 00:25:12,700
on the duration of its previous blast,
376
00:25:12,700 --> 00:25:14,853
which average two to four minutes.
377
00:25:15,980 --> 00:25:20,530
The intervals between eruptions
average about 90 minutes,
378
00:25:20,530 --> 00:25:24,990
and times are estimated
one eruption in advance.
379
00:25:24,990 --> 00:25:29,010
Old Faithful is indeed both
a symbol of Yellowstone Park
380
00:25:29,010 --> 00:25:31,133
and an American icon.
381
00:25:32,140 --> 00:25:35,203
A perfect place to end this journey.
382
00:25:37,010 --> 00:25:39,593
(upbeat music)
383
00:26:09,513 --> 00:26:12,430
(letters blasting)
31063
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