Original subtitles

(wind blowing)

(uplifting orchestral music)

(upbeat music)

- Our journey begins

just east of the town of Weymouth.

We'll head down Dorset's Jurassic Coast,

encountering some of England's

most spectacular geological features

along the way.

From the abandoned ghost town of Tyneham,

a detour inland takes us

to William the Conqueror's Corfe Castle.

Moving on, to the towns

of Sandbanks and Bournemouth,

in Poole Harbor, we'll then have a chance

to marvel at the ancient pagan holy grounds

of Knowlton Rings.

From there, we'll continue to the mouth

of the river Test, and explore

the massive Southampton Port.

From their docks, we'll hop across the sea,

to the Isle Of Wight,

discovering the dramatic Needles Battery

on the isle's west coast.

Then, to the north, we'll end our journey

at Osborne House.

Once the country retreat of Queen Victoria,

and her husband, Prince Albert.

(soft music)

We start our journey just outside Weymouth.

Gateway town to Dorset's

incredible Jurassic Coast.

It spans 153 kilometers

of England's southern shore.

180 million years of geological history

can be found within the dramatic land slips,

and eroded coast line,

making this area a gathering place for geologists

and tourists alike.

Perhaps the most spectacular,

and certainly the most visited

of these geological features, is Durdle Door.

With over 200,000 visitors a year.

The feature is estimated to be

about 140 million years old.

Its name, Durdle derives

from the Old English word, thurle,

meaning, to drill.

And this is a perfect description

of how this arch was formed.

The powerful sea gradually eroded the soft clay

on both sides, and through the center of the

strong limestone arch, that remains standing.

A fossilized forest on the top

makes this a true jewel for geologists.

(soft music)

A few bays over, we come to Lulworth Cove.

Its unique shape is again a result

of thousands of years of weathering.

(seagulls cawing)

The weak rock at the opening gave way

to an onslaught of waves,

around 10,000 years ago.

Then, as the water continued to force its way

through the small opening,

the incoming waves were defracted

outwards, eroding the sides of the cove

more vigorously than the back.

(soft music)

Also, the back wall is composed

of a 250 meter long band of chalk,

pressed into the cliff face.

Which resists erosion far better than the clay

and sands on the side.

With 500,000 visitors per year,

the cove's spectacular shelter is a draw

for swimmers and boaters alike.

(birds singing)

Some literary circles believe that JM Barrie's

inspiration for Peter Pan resulted

from the author's encounter with a boy

named Peter, wandering around Lulworth Cove.

The boy's father had just died,

and he used to play in this area,

as if it was his own magical world.

JM Barrie soon married the boy's mother,

and spent much time strolling with the child,

through his own personal Neverland.

Further down the shore, we come

to Worbarrow Bay.

(soft orchestral music)

The Jurassic Coast is not only a sanctuary

for tourists, a mecca (cows mooing)

for geologists, and a source of livelihood

for farmers, but is also

a central training ground

for the British Army.

As a result, this particular bay

is open only on weekends, and at night,

due to its use as a firing range,

and training ground.

(soft orchestral music)

The beautiful, seldom visited,

and secluded waters here, lure in divers,

fishers, and scallopers.

(soft orchestral music)

(seagulls cawing)

Flower's Barrow ridge towers over the shoreline.

It is features like this, where millions

of years of geological activity are exposed,

that make the Jurassic Coast famous.

(waves crashing)

But, due to constant coastal erosion,

this whole cliff face will eventually fall

into the sea.

(soft orchestral music)

Set back is the abandoned village of Tyneham.

As the British Army was preparing

for the D Day invasion of Nazi occupied France,

this area was used as a military training ground.

With the constant use of heavy artillery

and tanks, the small town

eventually got in the army's way.

So, in 1943, the 225 residents of Tyneham

each received a personalized eviction notice,

informing them that the land would be taken,

for the good of the country.

An inscription on the church door

of the town reads, "We have given up our homes,

"where many of us have lived for generations,

"to help win the war, and to keep men free.

"We shall return one day."

77 years have gone by, and still nobody

has returned, and the army

still occupies the land.

(birds singing)

There were protests after World War Two,

in an effort to repopulate the town

with its former residents.

But a public inquiry ended the matter,

when the military formally purchased the land.

As the army's presence was a boon

to the local economy, nearby settlements

went along with the decision.

Today, the abandoned village is open

for visitors to explore the ruins

of derelict buildings, and decaying tanks,

from the Second World War.

Overgrown with shrubs and ivy,

Tyneham is a fascinating but melancholy reminder

of the places that peace time forgot.

(birds singing)

Mist and fog have long plagued merchants

up and down the Jurassic Coast,

making seafaring extremely dangerous, even today.

Indeed, with the slips, steep cliffs,

and powerful seas, there are many accidents

and disasters on the coast every year.

(helicopter blades whirring)

And as a result, there are also many rescues.

People are swept out to sea,

trapped under landslides, or caught

between the ocean and the coast.

And with all these incidents,

there are also many casualties.

(helicopter blades whirring)

But, regular rescue practice,

such as what we are witnessing here,

helps to keep that toll low.

The sight of the rescue helicopter

whisking up and down the coast every year,

is a common one.

This is the first time this young woman

has played the part of someone being rescued.

But you can see from her commitment

to the task, that she knows

these test runs are important

for keeping the rescuers trained and ready.

But despite the skill and professionalism

displayed here, this helicopter rescue service

is constantly in danger of being shut down.

Moving inland from the coast, we arrive

at Corfe Castle.

Built by William the Conqueror,

in the 11th century.

In a time when most castles

were built of earth and timber,

this stone structure was formidable indeed.

(dramatic music)

Over the centuries, many other kings

continued fortifying the castle,

until it was finally sold,

to John Banks, in 1635.

But when the English Civil War

broke out a few years later, Corfe

was stormed by parliamentary forces.

Because John Banks was in Oxford,

with the king, during the raid,

his wife, Mary, took full control,

and was able to defend the castle

against a force of 500.

During the two week siege,

100 parliamentarians died,

and only two defenders.

For two years, it remained

the last royalist stronghold in England.

Until it was finally taken and demolished.

It has since been bequeathed to the state,

by the Banks family, and is now owned

by the National Trust.

It remains one of the country's

most visited historic sites.

(birds singing)

(pleasant music)

(train chuffing)

And running beside the castle,

we see the Swanage Railway.

The line was constructed in 1885,

and at the time, was the last section

in the long journey between London,

and the coastal town of Swanage.

(train chuffing)

In 1972, when the financial viability

of much of England's rail system

was being reassessed, the route was canceled.

(pleasant music)

However, being a popular and scenic line,

a group of enthusiasts petitioned

the government for ownership of the route,

which they were granted.

The railway was then renovated,

and reconstructed, bit by bit.

Until finally, in 2009, a passenger train

ran between London and Swanage,

following the traditional route.

Now steam locomotives run services

on a regular basis, between the many small towns

on the system.

(waves crashing)

The sea, on the southern coast of England,

is notoriously brutal.

Here, we can see a motorboat

struggling in the rough waves,

fighting to make it into Poole Harbor.

(soft music)

This once massive valley

was drowned by rising seas,

and melting glaciers, at the end of the Ice Age.

Once used as an invasion point for the Romans,

during their conquest of England,

the estuary now serves as a sheltered harbor,

with some interesting settlements.

(soft music)

This small peninsula, sitting just inside Poole

Harbor, is known as Sandbanks.

It may seem like a quaint settlement,

but in fact, this small patch of land

has the fourth largest property value

in the world.

Dubbed by some as England's Palm Beach.

(bird cawing)

It has the highest concentration

of expensive properties outside of London.

Even modest bungalows in states

of complete disrepair go for nearly $5 million.

(soft music)

It all might seem a bit extravagant,

but the beach here is considered

to be the most beautiful in all of England.

But is it worth that much?

(soft music)

On the coast east of Poole Harbor,

is the town of Bournemouth.

(waves crashing)

Now a popular retirement area,

its notable former residents

include JRR Tolkien, who used to vacation

and write his novels here,

for over 30 years.

Robert Louis Stevenson was also a resident,

and is said to have written both Kidnapped,

and Dr. Jekyll and Mr. Hyde,

while living in the town.

(birds singing)

Again, moving inland, we come to Kingston Lacy.

(soft orchestral music)

Once Corfe Castle was destroyed

in the Civil War, this became the official seat

of the Banks family.

The house was altered and remodeled in 1835.

It was then that the four chimneys you can see

here, were constructed.

And stones were also added

to the structure at this time,

covering up the old brick walls.

Kingston Lacy was passed through the family,

until Sir Ralph Banks finally bequeathed

the house to the National Trust.

Inside the building

are ancient world artifacts,

collected by the Banks family

on their overseas travels.

On the outside are Japanese gardens

and extensive woodlands.

Also recently added, are communal growing spaces

for nearby town folk to come and learn

how to garden and grow food.

(wind blowing)

(birds cawing)

This mystical arrangement,

known as the Knowlton Rings,

is a confluence of old,

pagan beliefs, and Christianity.

(mystical folk music)

The circular ramparts were constructed

around 2500 BC, and are believed

to have been a small section

of a much larger, ceremonial,

and sacred landscape.

This Norman church in the center,

was built in the 12th century.

Many historians believe the stones

in the henge were broken up

to construct the church.

The village of Knowlton once surrounded

the rings, until the Black Death in 1485

forced the inhabitants to leave their homes.

(mystical folk music)

However, because the church

was a prestigious landmark,

people continued to come here until 1747,

when the roof of the building caved in,

and the church was finally abandoned.

As we continue eastward, we meet up again

with the ocean, and the massive Southampton Port.

(soft music)

The second biggest port in Britain

after Felixstowe, it is the first point of call

for vessels arriving from Asia.

A unique tidal phenomenon, known by the locals

as double tides, results in 17 hours

of rising tides.

Meaning the port is accessible by large ships

most of the time.

Along with the fact that the harbor

has complete shelter behind the Isle of Wight,

it is understandable why it has had

a successful history,

and is affectionately called,

the gateway to the world.

(upbeat music)

Once the railways started operating

throughout England in the 1840s,

the port flourished, into the major

trading, military, and transport post

it is today.

(upbeat music)

In the 1930s, Southampton handled

over half of England's international passenger

traffic, and almost 60% of all cargo.

And situated here, are five massive terminals.

With facilities to handle

almost any type of freight.

(soft music)

The 40 mile River Test terminates

at the docks of Southampton Port.

The river mouth has the distinct advantage

of being consistently calm and wide,

allowing a constant flow of ship traffic.

From medieval times to the present day,

it has been an important harbor

for trade, and war.

It was an entrant for Viking invaders,

and then became a major ship building

area for the English fleet,

in the 100 Years' War.

The docks are renowned in more modern history,

for being the place where the first sea planes

and hovercrafts were developed.

(soft music)

And pulling into the docks,

we now see the Queen Mary Two.

(soft music)

When it was unveiled in 2004,

it was the longest, widest, and tallest passenger

ship ever constructed.

With a tonnage of 148,000,

it has an onboard power plant

of four diesel engines,

and two gas turbines, that drive

electric motors, which power the propellors.

There are three seawater desalination plants,

for the 10 to 13 day journey across the Atlantic.

And must have come in handy for the craft's

81 day circumnavigation of the globe, in 2007.

(soft music)

Four football fields long, and taking eight

million working hours to construct,

it truly is a giant of the seas.

(soft music)

Southampton Water, like Poole Harbor,

is also thought to be an ancient valley,

drowned during the Ice Age.

It is an area of great contention,

between pleasure boaters, conservationists,

and shipping and business interests.

(boat engine roaring)

Across form the port, on the west coast

of Southampton Water, and beside the New Forest

national park, is the Fawley Oil Refinery.

Established in 1925, and expanded

in 1951, this refinery, owned by Esso,

is the biggest in England.

(soft music)

Further west along the coast,

is the historic monument of Hurst Castle.

(dramatic music)

After Henry the Eighth's divorce

from Catherine of Aragon, in the mid 1500s,

England was politically isolated.

With threats from France and Spain,

he constructed a string of device forts

along the coast.

And this central section of Hurst Castle

still stands as a fine example.

(dramatic music)

Designed with Italian style fortifications,

block houses and artillery towers,

the fortress was very advanced for the time.

And it continued to be used for centuries after.

The complex was expanded and refitted

for the Napoleonic wars in the early 1800s,

as well as the First, and Second World Wars.

(dramatic music)

(soft orchestral music)

And just over the water from Hurst Castle,

is a rock formation known as The Needles.

Perhaps the most hazardous point for any ship

entering the Solent.

(soft orchestral music)

They were named after a long gone

fourth structure, called Lot's Wife,

that resembled a needle rising out of the ocean.

(waves crashing)

It collapsed around 200 years ago,

but the name stuck.

(soft orchestral music)

The formation is made of chalk,

that has gone through the geological process

of folding, when layers of minerals

are piled and compressed over thousands

of years, to form durable rock.

(seagulls cawing)

These jagged chalk structures

don't terminate at the lighthouse,

but actually continue far out to sea,

hidden underneath the waves,

and have historically been

incredibly dangerous for seafarers.

After many shipwrecks on these rocks,

merchants petitioned the government

for a lighthouse, in 1782.

But the original lighthouse

that was built, was too high,

and too far inland to be useful,

as it was constantly shrouded by fog and mist.

(soft orchestral music)

Finally, the lighthouse we see

today, at the end of the rocks,

was constructed in 1859.

(seagulls cawing)

It ran on a generator, with a single keeper

tending it, until 1994.

When it was fully automated,

and fitted with a helicopter pad.

(waves crashing)

And built behind the Needles lighthouse

on the Isle of Wight, is the Needles Battery.

(dramatic music)

The complex was originally constructed

in the 1860s, to defend against a potential

invasion from France.

When it was discovered that the pounding effect

of gun and cannon fire was causing the cliff

to crumble, the battery was reconstructed

higher up the cliff.

The old and new batteries were rearmed

with modern equipment, and served

as protection in both World War One, and Two.

Combat took place very close to the Battery,

with German U boats sinking two British ships,

right off the shores below.

(soft music)

At the northern end

of the Isle of Wight, is Cowes.

This town, of about 10,000,

sees its population double every summer,

at its famous regatta.

This event is a yachting tradition,

that dates back to the early 1800s,

when King George the fourth granted funds

to the boating spectacle.

Supported by royalty ever since,

the regatta has become the largest in the world,

and the town's resident Royal Yacht Squadron

has become a prestigious name

in international boating.

(soft music)

Starting as a mere cluster of fisherman's shacks,

around defensive forts, Cowes has come

a long way, and established itself

as one of the major yachting capitals

of the world.

And our last stop is just across

a small inlet from Cowes, at Osborne House.

(regal orchestral music)

Queen Victoria visited the Isle of Wight

a number of times in her childhood,

and said of the area,

it's impossible to find a prettier spot.

So it is no wonder that in 1853,

she had a summer retreat built here

for herself, and her husband, Prince Albert.

(regal orchestral music)

The two were nature and garden enthusiasts,

and so took plenty of inspiration

from the gardens of Europe

when planning the landscape.

Italian influenced terraces,

and miniature buildings,

are especially noticeable.

The house itself was designed by Prince Albert,

in conjunction with Thomas Cubitt,

the same architect who created

much of Belgravia, in central London.

When Queen Victoria died, in 1901,

Osborne was given to the state.

Many of the rooms were reserved

as a museum to the queen,

while the rest served as a naval academy.

(regal orchestral music)

But now, the entire complex is open

to the public, and in the care

of English Heritage.

Some houses in the grounds

are even available for rent.

In fact, the fame of the building

was so widespread in the 1800s,

that in 1876, the colony of Victoria,

in Australia, modeled its first government

house after this design.

Even today, the beauty and heritage

of Osborne House, and England's southern coast,

is renowned around the world.

A perfect place to end this journey.

(uplifting orchestral music)