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(wind howling)
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(dramatic music)
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- Our journey
begins in Buffalo.
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Heading east to Letchworth State Park,
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we'll fly down the Genesee River
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and admire some of the
most impressive waterfalls
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in New York State.
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From there, we'll explore
a few of the Finger Lakes
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before stopping briefly at Ithaca,
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home of Cornell University.
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Then it's northeast to Syracuse.
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Here we'll meet up with one
end of the old Erie Canal,
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no longer in use, but preserved
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and protected as a state park.
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We'll journey along the old waterway,
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soaking in the history
and industrial folklore
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before intercepting the new Erie Canal
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and continuing on to Otsego
Lake and the city of Utica.
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We bring our journey to a
close in Saratoga Springs,
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tourist haven and home
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to the oldest Thoroughbred
horseracing circuit
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in the country.
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With humble beginnings as a small
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trading post on the Buffalo Creek,
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this is New York State's
second largest city
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and an important historical center.
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Rated by Forbes as one
of the top 10 places
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to raise a family in America,
Buffalo is a sporting hub,
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home to stunning feats of architecture
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and a vibrant melting
pot of ethnic culture.
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After being burned to
the ground by the British
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in the War of 1812, the city
saw its fortunes reversed
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with the construction of the Erie Canal
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as it was strategically positioned
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at the western end of the system.
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The construction of the
canal brought immigrants in
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by the tens of thousands
and led the settlement
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to incorporate as a city in 1832.
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Serving as an important manufacturing hub
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and center for railroad commerce,
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Buffalo was most populous
and economically robust
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in the 1950s.
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With 580,000 people
living here at its height.
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Since then, the population
has been in decline
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but a concerted effort
to diversify the economy
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seems to be lifting the
city back onto its feet.
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Education, life sciences,
medicine, banking
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and high technology are taking
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the place manufacturing once had.
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They're creating opportunities for growth
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and revitalizing the city.
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Buffalo is also renowned
for its fine architecture.
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One exemplary building is
the Darwin D. Martin Complex.
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Impressed by the young
Frank Lloyd Wright's work,
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the entrepreneur and
businessman, Darwin Martin,
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handed Wright the
equivalent of a blank check
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to develop some land he
had recently purchased.
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The project cost Martin $300,000,
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about $50 million today but
the result was worth it.
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The site is not a
national historic landmark
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and considered by some
architectural scholars
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to be one of Wright's finest achievements.
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Inspired as he was by natural beauty,
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it's no wonder that Wright created some
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of his best work in Buffalo.
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For only 100 kilometers
southeast of the city
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is the magnificent Letchworth State Park,
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whose reputation as the
Grand Canyon of the east
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is well deserved.
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(birds chirping)
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The Genesee River roars
through over 50 kilometers
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of lush forest and over
three major waterfalls.
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These are the upper falls.
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The bridge behind them was
originally built in 1852,
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using one and a half
square kilometers of timber
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from the surrounding forest.
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Now made of iron and steel,
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it's still used as a
railroad crossing today
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and offers the best views
of the waterfall below.
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(peaceful music)
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The Seneca Nation which once populated
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the region around the Genesee named
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this stretch of river the Sehgahunda
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or The Veil of the Three Falls
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and the ones you see
now, the middle falls,
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with a drop of around 30 meters
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were believed to be so spectacular
that in Seneca mythology
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the mere sight of them caused
the sun to drop midday.
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These days, the three falls area
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is named Portage Canyon.
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Portage referring to the act
of carrying boats over land
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past unnavigable sections of a river
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which would certainly be necessary here.
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Some of the cliffs on the side
of the gorge reach 200 meters
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as the Genesee roars
down to the lower falls.
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With a drop of almost 10 meters,
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these mark the end of Portage Canyon.
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The bedrock expose in the gorge
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is from the Devonian Era
and many millions of years
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of geological history can be observed
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in the sandstone and
limestone, eroded by the river.
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Most of the rock was laid
down in an ancient inland sea
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and so an abundance of marine
fossils can be discovered.
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In 1906, William Pryor Letchworth
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bought four square
kilometers of forested land
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around Portage Canyon.
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He later bequeathed this
area to New York State
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as to deter private commercial business
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from destroying the fragile
environment around the river.
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Letchworth died in 1910
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but his legacy lives on as his
initial grant eventually took
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in more land and became
Letchworth State Park
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as you see it today.
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The park flanks the Genesee
River for 30 kilometers
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as it weaves down towards Lake Erie.
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With over 100 kilometers of hiking trails
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along with biking, horseback
riding, snowmobiling,
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and cross country skiing,
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Letchworth Park is a dream come true
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for those lovers of the great outdoors.
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70 kilometers east is the
small town of Canandaigua.
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And nestled amongst its streets
is the Sonnenberg Estate.
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The land was purchased in 1863
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by the prominent banker, Francis Thompson.
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And his wife Mary.
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As business thrived for the couple,
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so did their home.
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The old stone farm house
that once stood here
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was replaced by this mansion in 1887.
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And over the years, the
surrounding gardens were developed.
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The Sonnenberg Estate,
meaning sunny hill in German,
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was transferred to New
York State in the 1970s
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and now can be enjoyed
by the general public.
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10 themed gardens including
Japanese, Italian,
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rose, moonlight, and pansy gardens.
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An aviary, greenhouse, and
conservatory make the estate
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a thriving tourist attraction.
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Continue eastward and we arrive
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at the most voluminous of New
York's glacial Finger Lakes,
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named for their long and thin shape.
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Seneca Lake, whose banks were once home
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to hundreds of Iroquois villages,
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is now surrounded by picturesque farmland,
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vineyards, and wineries.
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Further east we arrive at
the longest, Cayuga Lake.
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But perhaps what it is best known for
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is the bohemian settlement
at its southern end,
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the city of Ithaca.
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Named after the island home
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of the great classical hero Odysseus,
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Ithaca, with a modest
population of 100,000,
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is a cultural powerhouse.
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Music, theater, and
science, enliven the city.
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But the town is most highly regarded
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for its higher education institutions.
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Cornell University being
the foremost amongst them.
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Founded in 1869 by Senator Ezra Cornell,
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who donated his farm in Ithaca
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and gave an initial endowment of $500,000,
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the university is now one
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of the eight prestigious
Ivy League colleges
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and often ranked in the top 10
institutions in the country.
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Cornell has been described
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as the nation's first
truly American university
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because of its founder's egalitarian
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and practical vision for the school.
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He wanted to expand the limited
American educational system
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and to open the doors of higher
education to more Americans.
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With 41 Nobel Laureates
associated with the university,
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Cornell has always been on
the front lines of innovation.
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It opened as a coeducational
institution in 1870.
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Now, onwards we fly from Ithaca,
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across the snow dusted farmland
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until, nestled amongst the forests,
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we find the last of the
Finger Lakes we'll be visiting
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on our journey.
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Skaneateles Lake.
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(peaceful music)
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The lake is so pristine that nearby towns,
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including Syracuse, drink
its water unfiltered.
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Ubiquitous in the landscape
and history of New York State
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is the Erie Canal and here
is a once-used aqueduct,
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just west of Syracuse
in the town of Camillus
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which runs over Nine Mile Creek
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but was abandoned in 1918.
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00:12:12,760 --> 00:12:16,120
The Erie Canal was first proposed in 1808
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as a means to link the waters
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of the lake of the same
name to the Hudson River.
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Once completed, some called it
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the eighth wonder of the world.
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However, over the years,
a number of enlargements
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of the original canal have
left derelict remnants
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of the old canal scattered
across the region.
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The Erie Canal brought
growth and prosperity
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to many settlements in New York
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not least of which was
the city of Syracuse.
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Situated on the southeastern banks
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of Onondaga Lake and named after
the ancient Corinthian city
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on the coast of Sicily,
Syracuse is the economic
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and educational center of
central New York State.
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00:13:02,700 --> 00:13:06,020
The settlement, which would
eventually become Syracuse,
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grew up around the salt trade
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with the commodity mined
at the nearby salt springs
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that dot the periphery
of the Onondaga Lake.
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The settlement then functioned
as a major crossroads
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between the Erie Canal
and its subsidiaries.
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Later as a railroad hub
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and now at a major
intersection of highways.
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It is largely Syracuse University
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for which the city is known.
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Abolitionists and female suffragists
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were long active in Syracuse
and this attitude contributed
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00:13:43,730 --> 00:13:46,740
to the university's
commitment to equality.
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00:13:46,740 --> 00:13:49,867
With the first president
of the school stating that,
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"There shall be no
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00:13:50,700 --> 00:13:54,337
"invidious discrimination
here against women.
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00:13:54,337 --> 00:13:57,517
"Brains and heart shall
have a fair chance."
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Higher education suffered a
shaky beginning in Syracuse
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00:14:03,060 --> 00:14:05,498
with Ezra Cornell rejecting the town
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00:14:05,498 --> 00:14:07,893
as the site for Cornell University.
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00:14:09,000 --> 00:14:12,380
His experience with being mugged
here on numerous occasions
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00:14:12,380 --> 00:14:16,033
compelled him to label the
city a Sodom and Gomorrah.
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However, Syracuse University
was soon granted land
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00:14:22,620 --> 00:14:25,460
and start up funds and is now one
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00:14:25,460 --> 00:14:28,123
of the most highly regarded
colleges in the nation.
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00:14:32,940 --> 00:14:36,460
Tracing the fortunes of Syracuse's
success takes us through
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the old Erie Canal State Historic Park
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00:14:39,680 --> 00:14:42,700
which runs along
approximately 60 kilometers
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00:14:42,700 --> 00:14:44,283
of the original waterway.
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00:14:45,170 --> 00:14:50,030
In operation for 100 years
between 1817 and 1917,
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00:14:50,030 --> 00:14:52,240
this section of the canal once took goods
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00:14:52,240 --> 00:14:55,020
and passengers from Syracuse eastward
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00:14:55,020 --> 00:14:56,843
to the New York town of Rome.
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00:15:00,310 --> 00:15:03,040
The construction of the
canal in its entirety
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00:15:03,040 --> 00:15:05,130
was one of the most ambitious projects
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00:15:05,130 --> 00:15:09,323
of 19th century America and
a triumph of engineering.
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00:15:15,130 --> 00:15:17,610
But before continuing along the canal,
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a brief detour to the east will take us
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to the Turning Stone Casino and Resort.
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00:15:22,618 --> 00:15:25,201
(upbeat music)
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Established and run by
the Oneida Indian Nation,
242
00:15:29,980 --> 00:15:32,700
it has been troubled with
conflict and criticism
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00:15:32,700 --> 00:15:34,043
since its inception.
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00:15:36,190 --> 00:15:38,210
Although the New York State law forbids
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00:15:38,210 --> 00:15:41,150
the operation of casinos
and the surrounding counties
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00:15:41,150 --> 00:15:43,460
and towns oppose the facility,
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00:15:43,460 --> 00:15:46,890
the Oneida Nation, as a
sovereign entity separate
248
00:15:46,890 --> 00:15:49,160
from the state was eventually granted
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00:15:49,160 --> 00:15:51,140
the right to build and operate the resort
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00:15:51,140 --> 00:15:53,410
as a gambling venue.
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00:15:53,410 --> 00:15:57,793
Now, it's a massive tourist
destination in central New York.
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00:16:02,610 --> 00:16:05,460
After a few hands of
blackjack and a martini,
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00:16:05,460 --> 00:16:10,210
we meet back up with the old
Erie Canal on our way to Rome
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00:16:10,210 --> 00:16:12,870
where it intersects with
its newer counterpart,
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00:16:12,870 --> 00:16:15,110
the much larger Barge Canal,
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00:16:15,110 --> 00:16:19,308
constructed between 1905 and 1918.
257
00:16:19,308 --> 00:16:22,141
(peaceful music)
258
00:16:23,150 --> 00:16:25,760
Once a bustling corridor of commerce,
259
00:16:25,760 --> 00:16:28,450
the canal fostered population surges
260
00:16:28,450 --> 00:16:31,113
and economic booms along its path.
261
00:16:33,290 --> 00:16:36,683
It is now used mostly
by recreational craft.
262
00:16:43,520 --> 00:16:46,660
Erie Canal is an historic reconstruction
263
00:16:46,660 --> 00:16:48,690
of the 19th century settlement
264
00:16:48,690 --> 00:16:50,810
where the first shovel load of dirt
265
00:16:50,810 --> 00:16:52,610
was overturned in the construction
266
00:16:52,610 --> 00:16:55,837
of the original canal in 1817.
267
00:16:55,837 --> 00:16:58,200
(peaceful music)
268
00:16:58,200 --> 00:16:59,920
The village sits on the point
269
00:16:59,920 --> 00:17:02,600
where the old canal meets the new.
270
00:17:02,600 --> 00:17:04,660
An old lock which regulates the height
271
00:17:04,660 --> 00:17:06,440
of the water along the canal
272
00:17:06,440 --> 00:17:09,770
and a number of typical
buildings, including a church,
273
00:17:09,770 --> 00:17:14,490
tavern, blacksmith, school,
ice house, and railroad station
274
00:17:14,490 --> 00:17:17,050
have been constructed
to give visitors an idea
275
00:17:17,050 --> 00:17:20,143
of what life in such a
settlement may have been like.
276
00:17:21,280 --> 00:17:23,370
Horse drawn vehicles and farm equipment
277
00:17:23,370 --> 00:17:26,120
from that early era can be seen in use
278
00:17:26,120 --> 00:17:28,013
on cobblestone or dirt roads
279
00:17:28,013 --> 00:17:30,473
that would've been typical at the time.
280
00:17:32,390 --> 00:17:34,260
As we move along the waterway,
281
00:17:34,260 --> 00:17:37,283
we eventually make our
way to Rome, New York.
282
00:17:40,100 --> 00:17:42,559
And here stands Fort Stanwix.
283
00:17:42,559 --> 00:17:45,230
(dramatic music)
284
00:17:45,230 --> 00:17:47,230
Rumored to be the first place
285
00:17:47,230 --> 00:17:49,730
where the American flag
was flown in battle,
286
00:17:49,730 --> 00:17:53,660
Fort Stanwix has had an
action packed history.
287
00:17:53,660 --> 00:17:56,320
Constructed by the British in 1758,
288
00:17:56,320 --> 00:17:58,400
during the French and Indian War,
289
00:17:58,400 --> 00:18:00,380
the fort was soon after abandoned
290
00:18:00,380 --> 00:18:02,323
and went into gradual disrepair.
291
00:18:05,420 --> 00:18:08,230
But with the American colonies'
Declaration of Independence
292
00:18:08,230 --> 00:18:11,600
20 years later, the
fort's strategic location
293
00:18:11,600 --> 00:18:15,043
was soon recognized and
refortifications began.
294
00:18:17,740 --> 00:18:19,990
It subsequently withstood a major siege
295
00:18:19,990 --> 00:18:22,883
by the British forces in 1777.
296
00:18:25,070 --> 00:18:28,431
The fort burned to ground in 1781
297
00:18:28,431 --> 00:18:32,150
and by 1830, commercial
development in Rome
298
00:18:32,150 --> 00:18:34,133
had completely covered the structure.
299
00:18:36,930 --> 00:18:41,144
However, in 1934, Franklin
D. Roosevelt established
300
00:18:41,144 --> 00:18:43,613
the area as a national monument.
301
00:18:44,530 --> 00:18:48,980
Then, 40 years later,
archeologists uncovered the fort
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00:18:48,980 --> 00:18:50,703
and reconstructions began.
303
00:18:51,540 --> 00:18:54,013
Now it stands proudly once again.
304
00:18:59,550 --> 00:19:02,690
Following the Erie Canal
down from Fort Stanwix,
305
00:19:02,690 --> 00:19:05,460
we find the mechanics of
the waterway in action
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00:19:05,460 --> 00:19:08,143
at Lock 20 State Canal Park.
307
00:19:10,220 --> 00:19:13,830
Today, 57 such locks are
positioned along the length
308
00:19:13,830 --> 00:19:16,630
of the canal, regulating the water flow
309
00:19:16,630 --> 00:19:18,300
as barges and other craft make
310
00:19:18,300 --> 00:19:20,223
their way up and down the waterway.
311
00:19:22,810 --> 00:19:25,170
Using this simple concept of locks,
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00:19:25,170 --> 00:19:27,960
boats traveling the
length of the canal rise
313
00:19:27,960 --> 00:19:30,920
from tide water level at Troy, New York,
314
00:19:30,920 --> 00:19:33,890
to 128 meters at Rome.
315
00:19:33,890 --> 00:19:36,660
Then descend down to 110 meters
316
00:19:36,660 --> 00:19:40,410
as they continue westward
only to rise again
317
00:19:40,410 --> 00:19:44,618
to 172 meters by the time
they reach Lake Erie.
318
00:19:44,618 --> 00:19:48,030
(peaceful music)
319
00:19:48,030 --> 00:19:51,340
Further on, we come to a town
whose history and fortunes
320
00:19:51,340 --> 00:19:53,783
have always been tied to waterways.
321
00:19:55,250 --> 00:19:57,870
Established as a post
along the Mohawk River
322
00:19:57,870 --> 00:20:00,920
where local merchants would
trade with the native Iroquois,
323
00:20:00,920 --> 00:20:04,663
Utica was a commercially minded
settlement from the outset.
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00:20:07,160 --> 00:20:09,120
And being positioned
along the first section
325
00:20:09,120 --> 00:20:12,040
of the Erie Canal to open in 1820,
326
00:20:12,040 --> 00:20:14,803
Utica saw its population and economy boom.
327
00:20:16,760 --> 00:20:19,170
The canal ran directly through the town
328
00:20:19,170 --> 00:20:22,070
and it served as a perfect midway stopover
329
00:20:22,070 --> 00:20:24,053
for those traveling the waterways.
330
00:20:25,150 --> 00:20:28,000
The city also became a transportation hub,
331
00:20:28,000 --> 00:20:30,460
commercial center, and major player
332
00:20:30,460 --> 00:20:32,453
in the textile and tool industries.
333
00:20:37,210 --> 00:20:40,070
After the construction of
the Erie and other canals,
334
00:20:40,070 --> 00:20:42,070
and with Utica establishing itself
335
00:20:42,070 --> 00:20:43,620
as a center of trade,
336
00:20:43,620 --> 00:20:45,810
more railroad lines were built
337
00:20:45,810 --> 00:20:48,900
to bring goods and
travelers through the city.
338
00:20:48,900 --> 00:20:52,810
So, in 1914, to meet the
increased rail traffic
339
00:20:52,810 --> 00:20:54,914
and to impress visitors upon arrival,
340
00:20:54,914 --> 00:20:57,843
the Utica Union Station was constructed.
341
00:21:01,840 --> 00:21:04,640
It now services buses, commuter rail,
342
00:21:04,640 --> 00:21:07,180
and the Adirondack Scenic Railroad
343
00:21:07,180 --> 00:21:10,263
which takes passengers
through the snowy mountains.
344
00:21:16,350 --> 00:21:19,473
But we are heading in the
opposite direction, south.
345
00:21:20,810 --> 00:21:23,660
As we fly over the forest
and rolling farmlands,
346
00:21:23,660 --> 00:21:27,053
we gain almost 250 meters in elevation.
347
00:21:28,090 --> 00:21:30,463
Coming eventually to Otsego Lake.
348
00:21:36,940 --> 00:21:40,970
15 kilometers long and at
a height of 450 meters,
349
00:21:40,970 --> 00:21:44,040
it has squeezed its way
into the American myth
350
00:21:44,040 --> 00:21:46,890
by way of author James Fenimore Cooper,
351
00:21:46,890 --> 00:21:49,560
playing a central role
in a number of his novels
352
00:21:49,560 --> 00:21:52,680
including "The Last of the Mohicans".
353
00:21:52,680 --> 00:21:56,220
Surrounded by small towns
with plenty of forested areas
354
00:21:56,220 --> 00:21:58,440
and a state park on its bank,
355
00:21:58,440 --> 00:22:01,120
Otsego Lake is a convergence point
356
00:22:01,120 --> 00:22:02,863
for outdoor enthusiasts.
357
00:22:07,170 --> 00:22:10,840
And at the northeastern end,
tucked away in Hyde Bay,
358
00:22:10,840 --> 00:22:13,003
stands the magnificent Hyde Hall.
359
00:22:16,660 --> 00:22:18,680
A neoclassical country mansion
360
00:22:18,680 --> 00:22:21,330
that combines the architectural
traditions of the old
361
00:22:21,330 --> 00:22:25,210
and new world, it was one of
the largest houses in America
362
00:22:25,210 --> 00:22:27,210
at the time of its construction.
363
00:22:27,210 --> 00:22:29,143
Perhaps the largest.
364
00:22:31,460 --> 00:22:33,590
Funded by George Clark,
365
00:22:33,590 --> 00:22:35,830
the grandson of a
prominent political figure
366
00:22:35,830 --> 00:22:38,570
in colonial New York,
the mansion was built
367
00:22:38,570 --> 00:22:43,440
in sections between 1817 and 1833.
368
00:22:43,440 --> 00:22:46,090
The passage of time and
the mansion's abandonment
369
00:22:46,090 --> 00:22:49,573
during World War Two took a
serious toll on the building.
370
00:22:51,150 --> 00:22:54,610
Demolition seemed like
a very real possibility
371
00:22:54,610 --> 00:22:57,000
until a community group stepped in
372
00:22:57,000 --> 00:22:59,360
and spearheaded the movement to restore
373
00:22:59,360 --> 00:23:00,893
and preserve the structure.
374
00:23:01,910 --> 00:23:04,470
Now the building and
grounds are recognized
375
00:23:04,470 --> 00:23:08,253
as cultural assets and
national historic landmarks.
376
00:23:12,150 --> 00:23:14,480
Also, in Glimmerglass State Park,
377
00:23:14,480 --> 00:23:18,410
along with Hyde Hall, is the
oldest surviving covered bridge
378
00:23:18,410 --> 00:23:19,883
in the United States.
379
00:23:23,210 --> 00:23:26,760
Built in 1823, it crosses Shadow Brook
380
00:23:26,760 --> 00:23:28,653
at a length of 16 meters.
381
00:23:29,730 --> 00:23:33,350
It is built in the classic
American Burr Arch style
382
00:23:33,350 --> 00:23:36,780
named after Theodore Burr,
the New York engineer
383
00:23:36,780 --> 00:23:38,323
who patented the design.
384
00:23:42,210 --> 00:23:44,480
Flying away from Lake Otsego,
385
00:23:44,480 --> 00:23:48,993
we move 100 kilometers east to
the city of Saratoga Springs.
386
00:23:51,930 --> 00:23:54,690
But the word Saratoga
is generally considered
387
00:23:54,690 --> 00:23:57,560
to be a corruption of
the Mohawk Indian phrase
388
00:23:57,560 --> 00:24:01,460
meaning the hillside
country of the quiet river,
389
00:24:01,460 --> 00:24:03,270
referring to the Hudson River
390
00:24:03,270 --> 00:24:05,673
which runs 25 kilometers to the south.
391
00:24:08,810 --> 00:24:11,850
The city has always
been a tourist location.
392
00:24:11,850 --> 00:24:16,093
Aided initially by the
Saratoga Railroad in 1832.
393
00:24:20,630 --> 00:24:24,070
Today there are many reasons
tourists come to Saratoga.
394
00:24:24,070 --> 00:24:27,200
The colonial history, the Saratoga Lake,
395
00:24:27,200 --> 00:24:29,120
the mineral springs.
396
00:24:29,120 --> 00:24:32,560
But one pastime overshadows the rest.
397
00:24:32,560 --> 00:24:33,453
Horse racing.
398
00:24:34,620 --> 00:24:37,520
For over 100 years, tourism
has been the main source
399
00:24:37,520 --> 00:24:39,280
of income for Saratoga
400
00:24:39,280 --> 00:24:42,370
and a vast number of those
tourists come specifically
401
00:24:42,370 --> 00:24:44,063
for the horse racing in summer.
402
00:24:47,280 --> 00:24:51,070
Established in 1863,
the Saratoga Racecourse
403
00:24:51,070 --> 00:24:54,310
is the oldest organized
sporting venue anywhere
404
00:24:54,310 --> 00:24:57,170
in the United State with nicknames
405
00:24:57,170 --> 00:25:02,070
like the House of Upset,
and Graveyard of Champions,
406
00:25:02,070 --> 00:25:04,800
many great racehorses like Secretariat
407
00:25:04,800 --> 00:25:07,143
suffered unexpected defeats here.
408
00:25:11,100 --> 00:25:12,680
There are three main tracks
409
00:25:12,680 --> 00:25:15,340
that make up the Saratoga course.
410
00:25:15,340 --> 00:25:18,340
Their combined presence
dominating the landscape
411
00:25:18,340 --> 00:25:19,173
of the city.
412
00:25:20,400 --> 00:25:24,500
Due to its long history, the
track is rich with tradition
413
00:25:24,500 --> 00:25:27,813
and lures in thousands
of tourists every summer.
414
00:25:29,190 --> 00:25:31,228
It's an American institution
415
00:25:31,228 --> 00:25:34,583
and a perfect place to end this journey.
416
00:25:36,941 --> 00:25:40,358
(stately dramatic music)
417
00:26:10,643 --> 00:26:13,393
(wind whooshing)
33251
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