Original subtitles

(wind blowing)

(upbeat music)

- [Narrator] Our journey begins at Mizen Head

in the southwest corner of Ireland.

We then follow the rugged coastline

past towers and lighthouses

before turning inland to the famous Blarney Castle,

where kissing a stone is said to bring luck.

To the south is Cork,

the second largest city in the republic,

which sits at the head of one

of the world's largest natural harbors.

Inland, and across the Knockmealdown Mountains,

are a remarkable group of medieval buildings

and abbey on the Rock of Cashel.

We then head southeast down the River Suir to Waterford,

once the home of crystal glass making.

Along the coast is Wexford

where we turn north towards the Wicklow Mountains

and our final destination

at one of Ireland's most beautiful estates, Powerscourt.

(waves crashing)

Ireland is famous for its changeable weather.

And on the west coast, sea mists can roll in

very quickly making navigation treacherous.

High seas pound the rocks,

and ships rounding the coast need to keep a wide berth,

which is why on the southwest tip of Ireland

is Mizen Head signal and weather station.

It sits on the end of a narrow peninsula

where the tides and currents around the coastline

meet the mighty Atlantic Ocean,

which can create mountainous seas.

Out at sea and out of sight today is the Fastnet Lighthouse.

The first tower was built in the 1850s

as a result of an American liner

hitting the rocks with the loss of 92 lives.

In the early 1900s, it was decided to replace the tower

and also build a fog signal station here at Mizen Head.

It actually sits on a small island called Cloghane.

In really bad fog, the keeper would also fire

an explosive charge at three minute intervals.

In the 1970s, the fog signal station was discontinued

when sonar and satellite navigation became widely available.

So today, Mizen Head is a visitor attraction,

with a museum and a dramatic walk

across the arched bridge to the weather station.

Visitors come and marvel at the spectacular sight

of the rocks and pounding seas

in almost any weather condition.

(gentle music)

As we fly east, the mist begins to clear

and the sun slowly breaks through

to reveal a beautiful coastline.

And on the cliffs are old castles

which defended the coast from potential invaders.

In fine weather and blue seas, the Carbery Hundred Isles

stand out in Long Island Bay and Roaring Water Bay.

The Isles are now home to a number of holiday houses

and have also become a popular place for scuba diving

due to the number of wrecks in the area

including a World War Two German U-Boat.

At the end of Roaring Water Bay is Kilcoe Castle,

built around 1450 on a two acre island.

It proved difficult to capture

and so was in fact the very last castle in the area

to fall to the English in 1603.

In the 1990s, it was bought and restored

at great cost by the actor Jeremy Irons.

Like many castles of this date,

it would have quite probably been rendered and then painted.

Ireland is a land of myths and legends

and across the country are a number of prehistory sites

going back thousands of years.

Close to the coast is the Dromberg Stone Circle.

In a nine meter diameter,

17 closely-spaced stones once completed a circle.

Today 13 survive.

The most westerly stone is known as a long recumbent.

To one side of the circle

are the ruins of two pre-historic huts,

which once had timber roofs.

The site was excavated and restored in 1958,

and during this period,

a pot was found in the center of the circle,

containing the remains of a young person

wrapped in a thick cloth.

Carbon dating suggests that the site

was still active around 900 BC.

The weather in Ireland is dominated by the Atlantic.

Here towards the west of the country,

warm wet air streams in from the sea,

and it's quite possible that it will rain

two days out of three at certain times of the year.

All this rainfall creates lush green grass

and gives Ireland its depiction as the Emerald Isle,

and it also gives rise to some wonderful rainbows.

One of the most visited sites in Ireland

is Blarney Castle built in the 15th century.

But its attraction lies not in the fortress itself,

but in one of its stones, the Stone of Eloquence,

built into the battlements of the castle.

It's said that if you kiss it,

you will never be lost for words again

and have the gift of eloquence.

Needless to say, millions have people

have kissed the Blarney Stone over the years

and they have come from around the world.

However, the act of kissing the stone

requires lying down on your back,

with someone holding your legs,

and then hanging upside down over a sheer drop

in order to reach it.

Today there are iron railings

to protect anyone attempting it,

but in the past there was a real risk to life and limb.

Indeed, in a Sherlock Holmes story,

a man falls to his death

because it's discovered that his boots were greased

and therefore slipped through the hands

of the person holding him.

On the banks of the River Lee is Cork,

the principal city in the county of the same name,

with a population of roughly 120,000 people.

It was founded back in the 6th century

as a monastic settlement by St. Finbar,

the first bishop of Cork,

and only became urbanized in the 10th century

when the Vikings arrived and founded a port,

which became an important part

of their global trading network,

along with Dublin to the north, which they also founded.

As a seafaring people, the Vikings understood

the importance of building harbors in the best places,

and at Cork it was ideal,

as it was inland enough to be sheltered

from the sea, and also an attack,

yet close enough to one

of the greatest natural harbors in the world.

On the east side of the city is the container port

and on the opposite bank is a small 17th century castle,

which was not built for defense

but as a surprise gift from a wife, Anastasia Archdeacon,

to her returning soldier husband, John,

after years of fighting on the continent.

Legend has it that when he saw the new castle,

he fired a cannon ball at it

thinking it must have been built by an enemy.

The castle overlooks the River Lee

where it opens up into Lough Mahon,

one of the most important bird habitats in the harbor.

And on the far side at Passage West,

the lough narrows and for about two miles

becomes the River Lee again.

In 1993, a new ferry service began across the river

linking Cork to the harbor town of Cobh.

The two ferries can carry 27 cars and 200 passengers.

(gentle music)

Most of the shipyards along the river have now gone,

but a few still remain to carry on a tradition

of ship building that has lasted for centuries.

At this point, the River Lee opens out

to Lower Cork Harbor,

which is a vast natural deep water harbor.

It is claimed to be the world's second largest

after Sydney in Australia.

The main town around the harbor is Cobh,

which used to be known as Queenstown

before the Republic of Ireland was founded in 1919.

This is place of poignant memories,

where hundreds of thousands of poor and hungry people

left for the United States in the 1840s,

especially during the Irish famine years.

They left from this quay

hoping to build a new life across the ocean.

Many succeeded, but many also died at sea

in the terrible conditions.

And it was also from this quay

that the Titanic left to cross the Atlantic

on her fateful maiden voyage in 1912.

For two hundred years,

these old pastel colored houses

have seen great changes

from the age of sail to the age of steam

and on to the great liners of the 1930s.

And today, the deep water quay

welcomes a new generation of ships

whose passengers will be sure to enjoy

a bit of Irish hospitality.

(woman vocalizing)

Ships of all types entering or leaving a large harbor

have to make use, under maritime law,

of an experienced pilot.

It is their local knowledge of the harbor

that the captain of a ship will listen to very carefully.

Stopping distance for a large modern container ship

can be measured in miles

and a slight error of judgment

can cause millions of dollars in damage.

The pilot boat will pull alongside a moving ship

and the pilot will climb aboard.

After the ship has passed the last buoy going out to sea,

he will go back to his own boat

and be taken back to land, or perhaps,

to another ship waiting to come into the harbor.

A harbor of this importance needed to be defended

and the British, who prior to 1919 occupied Ireland,

built forts on some of the islands

like here on Spike Island

as well as at the narrow harbor entrance.

On the west side is Fort Camden,

which was begun in the 1780s

and enlarged during the 1860s.

And opposite is Fort Carlisle,

which was also enlarged in the 1860s.

Both these forts were eventually presented

to the new Irish government in 1938.

The two forts overlook Crosshaven,

a small village just inside the harbor.

It's famous for being the present home

of the Royal Cork Yacht Club,

which was established back in 1720,

and is the oldest yacht club in the world.

At the harbor entrance lies Roche's Point Light.

In 1928 the transatlantic liner, Celtic,

was swept onto the rocks beside the lighthouse.

During the salvage,

her cargo of grain and fruit went overboard.

Thousands of apples floated into Cork harbor

and up the creeks and rivers,

with many being sold as Celtic Apples

for a penny a piece.

Heading northeast across lush green countryside,

we pass one of the finest buildings in Ireland,

Lismore Castle.

It can be privately rented for special occasions

and can accommodate up to 27 guests.

A spectacular dinner can be held for many more people

in the great hall of a castle that dates back to 1170.

You cannot travel very far in Ireland

without coming across some sort of religious building,

whether a church, cathedral, or monastery,

and many of them will be dedicated

to the country's patron saint, St. Patrick.

Religion has played an important part

in the history of Ireland.

(men vocalizing)

At Cloncoulty, in the county of South Tipperary

is one of the most historic sites in Ireland

and a major Christian center, the Rock of Cashel.

This unique complex of buildings

is one of the most remarkable collections

of Celtic art and medieval architecture

to be found anywhere in Europe.

Very little remains from the time

before the Norman invasion in the 11th century

and the oldest recognizable building

is the round tower, which dates from 1100.

Cormac's Chapel, named after King Cormac MacCartaigh,

was built in 1127

and is now dwarfed by the cathedral,

which was started a hundred years later.

On the left is the Hall of the Vicars Choral,

which is where lay members and sometime clergy lived.

They were appointed to chant during services.

In 1647, Parliamentary Protestant forces from England

sacked the whole site

and massacred not only the troops who were guarding it

but also the Roman Catholic clergy.

The wonderful treasures inside

were either looted or smashed to pieces.

During the 18th century,

the main roof of the cathedral was removed

and the whole site left as a ruin.

Today, the Rock of Cashel is a major tourist attraction.

To the southeast is the River Suir,

which runs down to the Atlantic at Waterford.

This is one of the major fishing rivers in Ireland

and holds the record for a salmon taken on a fly in 1874.

It weighed 26 kilograms.

Today, the salmon stocks have declined

but the river holds a plentiful supply of brown trout.

(medieval music)

This is Curraghmore House.

The old original castle is encased inside the main building,

which was constructed in the 19th century.

The impressive approach is flanked

by 18th century buildings.

The house is home to the eighth Marquis of Waterford

whose Norman ancestors arrived in Ireland in about 1170.

The large formal gardens that surround Curraghmore,

as well as the woodland walks,

are open to the public

and the house is available for group tours.

Waterford is the oldest city in Ireland,

founded as a settlement by the Vikings back in 853.

The city has seen its fair share of terror

when the protestant English besieged and took it

in 1650 after Waterford remained Catholic

and had declared independence.

On the waterfront is Reginald's Tower

which was built by the Vikings

and is the oldest urban building in Ireland.

However, it is for glass that the city is most famous:

Waterford Crystal.

It was first produced in 1783.

Over the years, the company changed hands several times

until finally the new corporation,

which by now had factories around the world,

closed the operation in Waterford in 2009.

So after 200 years of fine glass making,

there is now just a museum.

Just outside the city, the River Suir

divides around Little Island and Waterford Castle.

With a history going back to the 11th century,

it was largely rebuilt in the 19th around the old tower,

which sits in the middle of the building.

Today, this private island with its own ferry

is a luxury hotel and golf course.

At Ballyhack, there is a ferry service

across the river mouth to Passage East.

With no bridge downstream from Waterford,

this has been an important crossing point for centuries,

and the present ferry operates 120 crossings a day.

Duncannon Fort was built in 1588

in the expectation of an attack by the Spanish Armada.

Its strategic position, at the mouth of the River Suir,

meant that it was upgraded over the centuries,

right up to Irish Independence

when it was set on fire and then lay in ruins

until it was brought back to life

during the second World War.

Today it's open to the public

and managed by the local council.

The River Suir empties into the Celtic Sea

where we head east along the coast

into the county of Wexford.

The town of Wexford

is on the south-eastern tip of Ireland

and built on the west side of the River Slaney.

This is another town founded by the Vikings

and named Veisafjordr, inlet of the mud flats.

Wexford's position had made it an ideal sea port

until the constant dredging of the shifting sands

in the 20th century made it uneconomic.

However, the town rebuilt the long harbor quay

and turned itself into a cultural center

with particular focus on opera.

In 1951, the Wexford Opera Festival began

and has become such a success over the years

that a new opera house was built in 2008.

The shifting sands may make it difficult for navigation,

but it does make the entrance into Wexford Harbor

a beautiful stretch of coastline.

(heartfelt music)

Our journey now heads north

and into the Wicklow Mountains.

This range forms the largest continuous

upland area in Ireland

and several river systems have their source here,

including the Liffey, which flows north to Dublin.

For centuries, the mountains had been a place

for rebels to hide out

until the Wicklow Military Road was built

in the 19th century

and the mountains began to attract tourists.

(vocalizing)

In the valley of the two lakes

is an ancient monastery, Glendalough.

In fact, it is more of a monastic city

with a number of surviving religious buildings,

including several early churches,

a high round tower, lay buildings,

and various sites associated with St. Kevin,

who founded the original monastery.

He was a hermit monk who died around the year 618.

In its heyday, Glendalough also had guest houses,

monastic cells, workshops, an infirmary,

and farm buildings.

But by the 13th century, it was in decline

and English forces put paid to it in 1398

leaving it in ruins except for the round tower.

This was used as a grain store as well as a place of safety.

But even in this state, the site exerts a powerful presence

on all who visit this beautiful valley.

One of the reasons that the Wicklow Mountains

look the way they do is partly due

to the local Cheviot breed of sheep

which roam across the landscape,

eating the grass and other vegetation,

keeping it all neat and trim.

Today, the Wicklow Mountains have become a National Park,

which was established by the government in 1991

and is roughly 200 square kilometers in size.

This is Great Sugar Loaf Mountain,

or simply known locally as Sugar Loaf.

It's often mistaken for an old volcano,

but it is in fact a sedimentary deposit

of Cambrian quartzite from the deep sea

pushed up over millions of years.

The rest of the Wicklow Mountains

are made of Devonian granite.

The mountain is only 501 meters high,

but due to its isolated position and steep sloping sides,

it appears much taller than it actually is.

Behind Great Sugar Loaf Mountain to the north

is one of Ireland's greatest stately homes

and our final location.

The house has been rebuilt several times,

as has the magnificent garden,

which stands in the shadow of Sugar Loaf.

It also a house that nearly died

when it was gutted by fire in the 1970s,

but it survived and was rebuilt.

This is Powerscourt.

(majestic music)

The house we see today was built in the 18th century

but substantially altered a hundred years later.

The fire in 1974 took the roof off

and gutted all the principal rooms,

but the real glory of Powerscourt was left undamaged,

the garden.

This 19th century Italianate design

has a series of steps leading down from the terrace,

with formal parterres on either side,

and continues down past great curving earth terraces,

sculpted out of the hill.

The steps end at a small lake.

To the sides of the main formal garden

are a series of smaller more informal ones

including the Tower Valley, a Japanese garden,

and the walled garden, with glass houses,

close to the house.

The inspiration for the design at Powerscourt

came from palace gardens across Europe,

including Versailles in France.

The result is one of Ireland's greatest gardens

and a perfect place to end this journey.

(majestic music)

(logo booming)