Original subtitles

(upbeat music)

- [Narrator] Our journey begins as we approach

the southwest corner of Mallorca,

and onto Palma, the capital of the island.

From there we head north into the mountains,

and along the coast of the hilltop village of Deia,

and then on to the monastry at Lluc.

Following the dramatic coastline,

we pass the town of Cala Sant Vicenc,

before arriving at the lighthouse on the Cap de Formentor.

In the bay to the south,

we take a look at the resort town of Port de Pollenca,

and then head east along the coast to Cala Ratjada.

We fly south to Porto Cristo

before heading inland

to three historic mountain monasteries at Randa.

Our journey around Mallorca ends back at Palma.

Mallorca is the largest of the Balearic Islands,

and has a history stretching back to the Romans,

followed by the Vandals, then by the Byzantines,

and the Moors.

It finally became Spanish in the 13th century.

Today, Mallorca is a resort island for mass tourism

which began back in the 1950s

when package holidays began to be sold.

In 1960, the island received 500,000 visitors.

In 1997, it was nearly seven million,

and in 2010, around 10 million people

came here for a holiday.

To cope with this number of tourists,

resorts have grown up around the coast,

particularly in the southwestern part of the island

near the airport.

The reason for this great expansion is twofold,

climate and accessibility.

Mallorca enjoys roughly 300 days of sunshine a year,

and is easily reached from most European countries.

This also makes it a popular place to buy property,

and at Portals Nous, it is mainly residential,

with a large marina for private yachts.

Many of the beaches are sheltered,

and make a perfect place for families to spend a day.

Due to European regulations and the Blue Flag policy,

there has been, over the years, an environmental cleanup,

which means people can be assured of unspoiled beaches

and unpolluted seas.

The capital of Mallorca is Palma,

where over half the local population of the island live.

Its seaport is busy with cargo ships

as well as cruise ships,

and ferries between the other islands and mainland Spain.

Since the start of mass tourism,

Palma has expanded to cope with the increase in population.

Despite the rise of modern buildings,

the city is dominated by one of the finest

gothic cathedrals in Europe,

and a jewel in Mallorcan architecture.

(choir singing)

Known locally as La Seu,

and officially of the Palma de Mallorca Cathedral,

it is one of the largest Catholic places of worship,

at 121 meters long, and 55 meters wide.

It was founded back in the 13th century

following the defeat of the Arabs by King James I

when he sailed to the island with his army.

During the voyage, a storm raged,

and he feared for his life.

He made an oath to God,

promising to build a cathedral in His honor,

and to be dedicated to the Virgin Mary

should his invasion be a success.

It was, and building began around the year 1300

on the site of the old mosque.

Building was slow as money was scarce,

and it was not until 300 years later, in 1601,

that the main facade was completed

and this masterpiece began to take shape.

An earthquake in 1851 left the building unsafe,

which meant a great deal of reconstruction and restoration.

The cathedral was not finely finished

until well into the 20th century.

As we head north from Palma,

the Serra de Tramuntana begin to rise up.

This mountain range runs almost the whole length

of the west coast.

An inner mountain valley is the Son Termens Golf Club.

This is a relatively new course built in 1998,

and has stunning views of the mountains.

A few miles to the north

and further into the mountains is Valldemossa.

This picturesque village is perhaps most famous

for the Carthusian monastery

which was built at the end of the 14th century.

It was disbanded in 1835.

A year later, the Polish composer Frederic Chopin

spent time in the disused monastery

with his mistress, Lucile Dupin,

better known as the French novelist Georges Sand.

Here in Mallorca,

Chopin composed several of his well known piano pieces.

(light piano music)

The rugged west coast of Mallorca

is in stark contrast to the main resort centers

with their high rise blocks and countless hotels.

Here, the beautiful natural landscape

has remained unchanged for centuries,

and is now protected from mass development.

Since the 19th century,

a number of villas have been built along the coast,

and now change hands for a great deal of money.

Some were once part of large estates

going back to a time when European royalty

holidayed on the island.

Many of the villas have outstanding views over the sea,

and paths lead down to small coves

which are sheltered from the wind,

and the smooth, weathered rocks

provide a great platform for sunbathing.

One of the most beautiful villages in Mallorca is Deia,

set deep into the surrounding Tramuntana mountains.

(relaxing music)

This hilltop village is built of local stone

with an ancient church at the top,

which can be reached through the narrow, winding streets.

Deia has a special place in Mallorcan history,

as it was on the coast in 1852

that 50 brave and determined islanders

fought off an invasion force of 150 North African Moors.

This victory is celebrated every year with a reenactment.

By the 19th century, tourists began to arrive,

drawn by the beauty of the village

and the surrounding landscape.

In the 20th century, it was to be the home

of the English poet Robert Graves,

who died in 1985, and is buried in the churchyard.

Today, many film stars, rock musicians,

and successful industrialists from around the world

have made Deia their summer retreat.

Over the centuries,

only a few towns have been built along the coast,

as the Tramuntana mountains

made an effective barrier for communication.

But it's only in the sheltered valleys

that a town could prosper.

Soller is one of them,

and stands in the Valley of Oranges.

History stretching back to the 13th century,

this ancient town survives and prospers on tourism,

and in particular, its port on the coast.

An old tram connects the town to the port,

which has been a favorite resort for decades,

and especially for people who want a quieter holiday

away from the noisy and more populated resorts

of the south coast.

This sheltered bay offers not only a glorious beach,

but also hiking trails into the mountains,

which form the backdrop to the port.

The Serra de Tramuntana is the largest

and one of the most important areas

of natural beauty on Mallorca.

In this 50 kilometer range of mountains

are a huge variety of geological formations,

as well as unique plants, rare animal species,

and above all, spectacular scenery.

For decades, the area has been threatened

with new public works, planning applications,

and the spread of tourism.

June of 2011, the Tramuntana mountains

were awarded World Heritage status by UNESCO

as an area of great physical and cultural significance.

Up in the mountains, the climate is significantly wetter

than the rest of the island, and in the winter,

it's not unusual for snow to be seen

on the top of the peaks,

the highest of which is Puig Major at 1,445 meters.

Since 1958, the public are barred from the summit,

as it is a military zone with a radar station

perched on the top,

which watches over the western Mediterranean,

as well as Northern Africa.

(relaxing music)

Up at this height, birds of prey seek their food,

including falcons, ospreys, and vultures, and in fact,

Mallorca is the only island in the Mediterranean

where vultures still survive.

Centuries ago, much of the island

was covered with natural forest,

and it's only here in the mountains

that some of it survives.

The protection by UNESCO will hopefully help

in keeping this rare woodland safe from further development,

as well as protect all the animals that live in it.

One building in the mountains that has its own protection

is the Santuari de Lluc,

which has been here since the 13th century.

The reason for building the monastery on this site

was thanks to a young shepherd boy

who had found an ancient statue of the Virgin Mary

buried in the ground.

Lluc is considered to be the most important pilgrimage site

on Mallorca, and has been welcoming guests for centuries.

Today, the monastery offers simple accommodation,

mostly in cells once occupied by former monks.

However, unlike any other modest hotel,

guests are asked to be silent after 11 p.m.

The monks welcome people of all faiths,

and those that have none,

because Lluc is more than a sanctuary,

as it is a secular national symbol,

it is designed for those people seeking an alternative

to days spent on a beach and partying at night.

Many people often use the monastery

as a base for days spent walking in the mountains.

The monastery is also internationally known

for its choir school,

which was established back in the 16th century.

During term time,

they sing at services in the morning and evening,

and also regularly hold concerts during the summer months.

10 miles to the north,

where the mountains begin to slope down to sea,

is the town of Pollenca.

It was founded back in the 13th century

as a center for defense on the northern coast.

The name of the town comes from the time

of the Roman occupation when a nearby settlement

was called Pollentia.

Much of the town was built in the 17th and 18th centuries,

but it's along the old medieval streets

that Pollenca displays a character all of its own.

As it's close to the sea,

a large number of holiday villas,

each with its own swimming pool,

have been built in the hills above the town.

Across the mountains to the west,

and in a small valley surrounded by high cliffs,

is the seaside resort town of Cala Sant Vicenc.

The beach is divided into two by the long, high peninsula,

which carries the main road and many of the town's hotels.

The road carries right on to the end,

offering great views of the sea as it pounds the rocks.

A few miles to the north is the Cap de Formentor,

which is a narrow peninsula

at the northernmost point in Mallorca.

The cliffs are spectacular,

and have been carved into wonderful shapes

by the force of the sea and the wind

over thousands of years.

(relaxing music)

And at the end is a large lighthouse built in 1892.

Building it was quite a task

in this remote and harsh terrain.

Due to the difficulty of transporting the workforce

along the peninsula, everyone stayed on site,

and construction carried on

over Sundays and religious holidays.

When the Bishop of Mallorca heard about this,

he was so appalled that he had an altar built nearby

so that the workers could hear mass on Sundays.

In 1962, a power line was installed across the mountains

to light the lamp,

but lightning strikes rendered it useless,

and so two generators were installed instead.

Today, the lighthouse is solar powered,

and also remotely controlled.

During the early 20th century,

a mountain road was built to the lighthouse,

and it's not for the fainthearted,

as it twists and curves around the cliffs

with few safety barriers.

The length of the peninsula in a straight line

is slightly less than 10 kilometers.

The road runs for over 20 kilometers, however,

once at the end, the views are reward enough.

Until the early 20th century,

the whole of the Cap de Formentor was in private hands.

When the owner died,

the land was divided into lots and sold.

On one lot of 1,200 hectares,

a luxury hotel was built in 1928,

and the Barcelo Formentor is still welcoming guests

from around the world.

It's one of the best known hotels in Mallorca.

Sheltered from the wind,

but with glorious views of the beach and sea,

the hotel can boast a who's who of international guests

from the very start.

Winston Churchill, Charlie Chaplin,

Audrey Hepburn, John Wayne,

Laurence Olivier, and today,

movie stars such as Tom Cruise and Michael Douglas.

In 1995, Barcelo Formentor hosted a European Summit Meeting

with all the heads of state staying on site.

This whole stretch of coast around the sheltered bay

is home to some very exclusive seaside villas.

(relaxing music)

The sea is clear and blue,

and the ferries take tourists on trips around the bay.

They will pass this rather amazing property, La Fortaleza.

The old fort was built in 1628

to protect the port of Pollenca,

and is now being turned into a very exclusive holiday home

with no expense spared.

Secure on its own peninsula,

the villa can be got to by boat, car, and helicopter.

It is rumored to have been sold to a British banker

for an undisclosed sum,

but thought to be in the region of $35 million,

and one of the most expensive

private property deals on the island.

The view from the south facing terraces

looks toward the port of Pollenca.

This beachside resort is the northernmost town in Mallorca,

and one of the island's more expensive holiday spots.

It is sheltered by the Tramuntana mountains,

and has a large, sweeping beach

which runs for nearly six kilometers.

Porto Pollensa attracts families

from many different countries

who can enjoy the various activities,

including some which give great views of the area.

On the northeastern tip of Mallorca

is the Punta de Capdepera,

and the small resort town of Cala Ratjada.

A small fortified town grew up here in the 14th century,

then developed into a fishing and trading port,

and today is a popular resort.

(relaxing music)

At Porto Cristo,

a resort has grown up around the natural harbor,

which has been in existence since the 13th century.

It is said in one legend that the name,

which means the port of Christ,

came about because a fishing boat was washed ashore

which was carrying a large crucifix.

In another legend, two oxen who were pulling a cart

with an icon on their way to Palma

refused to go any further.

The icon stayed, and the town was named in its honor.

As we head inland, small mountains begin to emerge,

and on one of them,

known as the three shrines near the down of Randa,

are three monasteries.

At the foot of the mountain is a Santuario de Gracia,

the Sanctuary of Our Lady of Grace.

Mallorca abounds in places of devotion and pilgrimage

with most dedicated to the Virgin Mary.

The main shrine and chapel has been carved out of the rock

and hidden from view.

Over the centuries, the buildings around the shrine

have suffered much damage and lost most of their decoration.

Further up on the edge of the cliff,

above the Santuario de Gracia,

is the Ermita de Sant Honorat,

the hermitage of Saint Honorat.

In 1394, a knight by the name of Arnau Desbrull,

who had chosen to live as a hermit

on the mountain for 30 years,

asked the Bishop of Mallorca for permission

to build a chapel to Saint Honorat,

an early Christian saint from the fourth century.

He chose a part of the mountain with an unobstructed view

to the south to build his hermitage.

Over the succeeding centuries,

the primitive building feel into a ruinous state,

and was rebuilt, along with a new church,

in the 17th century.

And finally, on the very top of the mountain

is the Santuari de Nostra Senyora de Cura,

the Sanctuary of Our Lady of Cura,

who was a divine figure from the ancient world

whose name means care or concern.

One of the most important early Mallorcan philosophers

was Ramon Llull,

who had a spiritual retreat in a cave on the mountaintop.

It was here he founded the first Latin grammar school,

which was active until 1826.

In 1913, the sanctuary was restored,

but handed over to the monastic order of Franciscans.

Today, with the help of volunteers,

people are welcome to the retreat

to stay in the converted cells

and enjoy the peace and quiet,

as well as the outstanding views over the landscape.

On our way back to Palma and the end of this journey

around Mallorca, we pass the island's main airport.

During the summer months,

it's one of the busiest in Europe,

and in 2010, handled over 21 million passengers.

This number of people coming to the island

makes Mallorca one of the most

popular destinations in Europe.

It has been welcoming tourists in all seasons

for well over 100 years.

Because the island boasts 300 days of sunshine a year,

that means 300 glorious sunsets to enjoy.

And as the sun goes down,

our journey around picturesque Mallorca

comes to a perfect end.

(inspiring music)