Original subtitles

(wind howling)

(lively music)

- [Narrator] Our journey begins at Seville,

the capital of the Andalusia region.

We then head south towards the coast

and the ancient harbor city of Cadiz.

From there, it's east to the rocky peninsula of Gibraltar,

before turning north up the Costa del Sol

to the resort towns of Marbella and then Fuengirola.

Inland from the coast is the hilltop village of Alora,

with its whitewashed houses standing out

against the arid landscape.

From there, it's just a short disance

to the spectacular rock formations in the El Torcal Park.

Seville is the artistic, cultural,

and financial capital of southern Spain,

and the country's fourth-largest city.

It's also the capital of Andalusia,

one of the 17 autonomous regions of Spain.

Seville stands on a flat plain

alongside the Guadalquivir River,

and is only seven meters above sea level.

The city is more than 2,000 years old,

and its style has been influenced by

the cultural legacy of its conquering civilizations,

from the Romans, who called the place Hispalis,

followed by the Moors, who changed the name to Ishbiliyya,

which in turn became Seville when the city

was reconquered by Christian forces during the 13th century.

As a result, Seville retains a distinct personality,

and a large and well-preserved historical center.

And towering over the city is the Giralda,

a bell tower converted from a former minaret

that stood by the mosque

from the time of the Moors' occupation.

It's one of the city's most famous symbols.

In 1401, the Seville cathedral was begun,

and by the time of its completion 150 years later

was the largest Gothic cathedral in the world.

It was build to demonstrate the city's new wealth,

as Seville had become a major trading center

by the 14th century.

According to oral tradition,

the decision of the cathedral chapter was,

"Let a church so beautiful and so great

"that those who see it built will think we were mad."

Some of the elements from the original mosque

were utilized in the new cathedral,

and it is the final resting place of perhaps

the best-known explorer the world has ever known,

Christopher Columbus.

(choir singing in foreign language)

To the south of the city is the Maria Luisa Park,

created for a type of world fair in the 1920s.

The park has boulevards and gardens, palms and orange trees,

rows of flowerbeds and hidden bowers,

along with ponds and pavilions.

It's a cool place to be on a hot day.

At the same time as the gardens were created,

the Plaza de Espana was built

as a centerpiece of the exhibition.

It is now mainly government offices.

The design is a landmark example

of the Spanish Renaissance Revival style.

The building is also featured in many films,

most notably "Lawrence of Arabia"

and "Star Wars: Episode II."

(mellow music)

20 years earlier, the Alcazar Gardens were created

alongside the old palace, which was begun

back in the 10th century and largely rebuilt

in the 14th century by King Pedro I.

An Islamic arched door stands in the English gardens,

which were inspired by naturalistic designs

from the 18th century.

There is also a Garden of the Poets, amongst others.

All these gardens offer the people of Seville

and all those that visit them a haven of peace and quiet

as well as some welcome shade.

There is not much shade at the Rio Tinto Mines,

30 miles north of the city.

The landscape looks like an alien world,

as copper, silver, gold, and other minerals

have been extracted here for over 5,000 years.

The ancient mines were rediscovered in the 16th century,

and then, in 1873, sold to a British consortium,

who founded the Rio Tinto Company.

(haunting music)

The Quarter Italia was once the largest

open-pit mine in Europe, and over 350 meters deep.

At its peak, 2,000 workers were employed,

and the mine operated until 1992.

Today, the hole is flooded up to the 16th ring.

One of the problems with mining on this scale

is the landscape which is left scarred and barren.

Due to environmental pressure,

many mining companies around the world today

are obliged to leave the site as it was found.

In contrast to the Rio Tinto mines

is a large power complex which simply

uses the power of the sun to create electricity.

It makes a dramatic sight across the flat landscape.

(haunting music)

This is the new PS20 solar power plant,

a solar thermal energy unit near Sanlucar la Mayor,

15 miles west of Seville.

It is one of the world's most powerful solar complexes,

producing 20 megawatts of electricity.

1255 mirrored heliostats reflect the solar radiation

onto the receiver at the top of the 165-meter-high tower.

The massive heat generated by the concentration of light

creates steam, which drives turbines,

which in turn creates electricity.

When the whole plant is finally completed,

it will produce around 300 megawatts of power,

which is enough for the city of Seville.

This solar power station will prevent

harmful emissions of more than 600,000 tons

of CO2 a year had it been from a conventional

fossil fuel-based power plant.

On the south coast is the oldest city

on the Iberian Peninsula, which was probably founded

over 300,000 years ago by the Phoenicians

as a small trading post, Cadiz.

(gentle music)

In its time, the city has been occupied

by the Greeks, Carthaginians, Romans, Visigoths,

Moors, and Spanish, who finally reclaimed it

once and for all back in the 13th century.

Cadiz Bay forms a vast natural harbor,

and for centuries it has been a major naval port.

It was also a starting point for Spain's

great Age of Exploration during the 15th century,

and Christopher Columbus set out from here

on two of his voyages.

The city became the main port for Spain's treasure fleet,

which brought back gold, silver, and jewels

from the New World.

This also brought danger, and in 1587,

an English fleet, under the command of Sir Francis Drake,

occupied the harbor for three days

and destroyed over 30 ships.

The raid became known as The Singeing of

the King of Spain's Beard, and for the next 100 years,

Cadiz suffered several more attacks by the English

in their fight with Spain.

As a result, the city was fortified

with a new gateway and city walls.

Tourism has been an important part

of the city's economy for over 100 years,

and situated between two old forts

is the city's most famous beach, La Playa de la Caleta.

The 19th-century esplanade and beach pavilion

make it a popular place for visitors and residents alike.

The few squares in Cadiz offer the only open spaces,

as the narrow streets and houses

fill all the available space.

And from high above the city,

there is an interesting mosaic pattern

between the red and white roofs

and the straight lines of the streets.

The most prominent building is the cathedral,

which was built in the 18th century,

replacing a predecessor which had burnt down.

(upbeat music)

Another peninsula can be found 50 miles to the east,

and one that has been a source of friction

between Spain and Britain for over 300 years, Gibraltar.

(mellow music)

In 1704, Britain captured the rock

during the War of the Spanish Succession.

It ended with the Treaty of Utrecht in 1713,

when Spain granted Gibraltar to the British in perpetuity.

Since then, Spain has twice tried to take it back

with force, in 1727 and 1779, and failed.

In more recent times, Spain and Britain have tried

to solve the issue by suggesting joint sovereignty,

but in a 2002 poll, 99% of the local people

rejected the proposal, voting to remain part of Britain.

Over the years, Spain has tried several different tactics

to force the issue.

In 1969, Spain completely closed the border

and severed all communication.

Spanish airspace was restricted,

so airplanes had to make a very tight turn when landing.

In the 1980s, the border and airspace was reopened

as part of Spain's entry into the European Union.

For the Spanish, the issue of sovereignty

is a major obstacle in their relations with Britain.

For Britain, the importance of Gibraltar

lay in its strategic position as a port

for its Mediterranean fleet.

It has been a key naval base for 300 years,

and in that time, the population has risen

to roughly 30,000 people.

And most of the population live in the town area

on the west side of the peninsula.

25 years ago, 60% of Gibraltar's economy

was dominated by the naval dockyard,

but today it's only 7%.

Instead, tourism, shipping, financial services,

and internet gambling have taken over.

Low taxes have helped attract business

to this British dependency.

Gibraltar is also one of the most densely populated

territories in the world,

with around 4,000 people per square kilometer.

The growing demand for space has led to land reclamation,

which now accounts for about 1/10 of the total area.

Dominating everything is the rock itself,

a massive, monolithic promontory.

From the top, it is possible to see the coast of Africa,

13 miles away.

And on the summit is the O'Hara Battery,

named after one of Gibraltar's governor-generals.

The original gun was a six-inch breech loader,

which was replaced by a 9.2-inch one in 1901.

This one gun effectively closed the entrance

to the Mediterranean for any enemy ship.

In today's more friendly times,

the rock provides shelter for passing ships,

and a place to take on provisions and fuel.

The only drama takes place

when one vessel collides with another.

This happened in 2007, when a Panamanian bulk carrier ship,

New Flame, ran into the stern of a passing vessel

and began to take on water.

Cargo and fuel oil were salvaged,

and the ship will slowly be broken up for scrap.

Gibraltar has given its name to the saying

"solid as the rock of Gibraltar,"

meaning something which is immovable.

The saying also refers to the rock's invincibility,

as it has resisted sieges and attacks throughout the ages,

and in the Second World War, this tiny peninsula

on the southern tip of western Europe remained

under Allied control throughout the whole war,

and played a vital part in defeating Nazi Germany.

Heading north up the coast is one of

the most popular holiday parts of Spain

for hundreds of thousands of people across Europe,

the Costa del Sol, meaning coast of the sun.

One of the largest private resorts

in the area is Sotogrande,

which encompasses roughly 20 square kilometers,

including a large marina and hundreds of apartments.

(mellow music)

The resort is also well-known as an architectural showcase

on the Costa del Sol for all the differing styles

of luxury villas, from traditional Andalusian

to more modern designs.

Sotogrande is famous for its four golf courses.

This one is the Club Real de Golf,

which was founded in 1964 and voted fifth

in the top 10 courses of Europe,

and in the top 100 in the world.

"Golf Magazine" voted the course's seventh and 12th holes

two of the best in the world.

Due to its popularity, this part of the coastline

is also one of the most developed,

with apartment blocks, hotels, and villas

of all shapes and sizes.

Prices range from millions of dollars

for a luxurious beachside house to around $60,000

for a one-bedroom apartment inland from the sea.

The area is a popular place for people to retire to as well,

because the weather is still warm in the winter,

and many of the apartment blocks

are resort centers in their own right,

with private swimming pools and gardens

for the residents to enjoy.

One of the best-known resorts is Puerto Banus.

It was built in the 1970s by a local developer

as a luxury marina and shopping complex for the super-rich,

with hotels and apartments behind the harbor.

The marina can hold over 900 boats,

including the large private motor yachts

of some of the world's richest individuals,

including the members of several royal households

as well as world-famous actors and rock stars.

For those without a large yacht,

people can get out into the Mediterranean

to have fun by hiring speedboats,

or perhaps paying for a trip on a larger yacht

for a great day out cruising up and down the coast.

(mellow music)

Marbella is one of the most important

as well as popular resorts on the Costa del Sol.

Although the town appears to be very modern,

it actually dates back to the Romans,

and the name Marbella derives from the time of the Moors,

when it was called Marbil-la.

In the center of the town is the old village,

and in the late 1940s, it was discovered

by a wealthy German prince.

He was so impressed with the place

that he decided to buy up land

and market Marbella as a tourist destination.

It was soon to prove a highly successful venture,

as Marbella attracted the rich and famous

from across Europe, and in the 1980s,

a vast building program began,

with new apartment blocks spreading along the coast.

And much of the coastline has now been built on

with new resorts.

The lighthouse on the point at Faro de Calaburra

overlooks the large town of Fuengirola to the north.

It was only in the 1960s that the town

expanded into the resort seen today.

Before that, Fuengirola was for centuries

a small fishing and trading harbor.

The town's early history may stretch back

to the Phoenicians, who were here even before the Romans.

In the Middle Ages, when the small town

was under Moorish occupation and known as Suel,

the whole place was set on fire and burnt to the ground.

The population was moved out,

and the town became a mound of ruins.

Only the castle was left standing,

which had been built back in the 10th century,

when the Moors had invaded Spain.

In 1485, the settlement was reconquered by Christian forces,

and an attempt to repopulate it failed.

It was 300 years later that a small village and harbor

began to emerge in the shadow of the castle

and would form the beginning of Fuengirola.

Heading inland, the landscape becomes

more mountainous and more arid.

It appears almost barren in comparison

to the nearby populated coast.

Small whitewashed villages stand out in the dry countryside.

This is Alora, which has a history

stretching back to the Phoenicians,

who probably built the first castle

on the hill overlooking the village.

It was rebuilt by the Romans, destroyed by the Visigoths,

and then rebuilt again by the Moors.

It was finally recaptured by Spanish forces in 1485.

In the late 17th century, Alora was home for five years

to Migeul de Cervantes, the writer of "Don Quixote,"

which many experts consider the first modern novel

and a classic of Western literature.

10 miles to the north is one of Andalusia's

geographical wonders, the gorges at El Chorro.

These immense chasma are about 200 meters deep,

and in places only 30 meters wide.

(haunting music)

Alongside the railway line is a walkway

with a bridge across the first gorge.

It was built in the early 1900s,

and is now closed, as several sections have collapsed.

In between the gorges is an open area named La Jolla.

The region is home to some of Spain's best-known raptors,

golden eagles, griffin vultures, peregrine falcons,

and Monelli's eagles.

The chasms have been created over thousands of years

by water being forced between the rocks

when the three rivers which flowed

through the gorges were in flood.

Today it is a more gentle place,

as the Rio Guadalhorce has been dammed in three places

for hydroelectric power, and so the flow of water

can now be regulated.

10 miles to the west is our final destination,

and one of the most impressive limestone landscapes

in Europe, the Torcal Park Nature Reserve.

(gentle music)

100 million years ago, this whole area was under the sea.

Violent movement of the Earth's crust then

gradually forced it up into hills and mountains,

reaching 1300 meters.

During this geological process,

the limestone still kept its layered horizontal formation,

and the rain, over billions of years,

has gradually chiseled away at it

and created these incredible shapes.

The process is known as karstification.

Many of the formations have begun to resemble

everyday objects, and been named accordingly.

There is a sphinx, jug, hat, and a camel amongst them.

In the spring there is an impressive array of wild flowers,

and the area also supports a number of animal species,

including the Montpellier snake and eyed lizard,

as well as griffin vultures and

the Andalusian mountain goat.

(sweeping music)

During the millions of years of erosion,

cracks and faults appeared,

producing the alleys between the formations.

These make useful paths for the many visitors

who come to walk amongst these strange shapes.

Care must be taken in the summer,

when the heat in this harsh landscape

can be extremely dangerous,

and a good supply of water is essential.

The new visitor center is a good starting point,

and people can choose between three different

color-coded walks of various lengths

through the El Torcal Park.

And attached to the center is a walkway,

jutting out over the escarpment,

for a dramatic view to the south.

And a perfect place to end this journey.

(stately music)