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00:00:09,960 --> 00:00:11,960
Не могу вам рећи колико узбудљиво је бити овде.
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Ја сам у Техерану, главном граду Ирана.
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Да ли знате, пре до десет дана,
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нисмо знали да ли ћемо икада бити у стању да дође до овој фантастичној земљи,
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а онда, одједном, наши визе прошао кроз,
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и ја сам сада овде.
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И ти си.
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Иран је од кључног значаја за Путу свиле и наш велики пут.
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Све идеје, све културне размене,
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све филозофије, све поезија
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долази из ове земље када је био Персија.
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До сада на својим путовањима дуж овог древног трговачком путу,
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видели смо славну свиле
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да је Венеција најбогатији град у Европи.
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Гее, вхизз. Поштовање.
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00:00:51,320 --> 00:00:54,960
Ми смо треккед кроз дах Кавказу Грузије.
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Вов!
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И запитао се на светлуцавим куле модерног Азербејџана.
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То је магија.
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Сада, на крају, у невероватном Ирану,
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we'll be exploring
the ancient wonders of Persepolis.
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I mean, the scale of it,
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it's amazing.
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I'll find a surprisingly familiar
twist to the silk trade.
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Christian Lacroix.
Lacroix, sweetie, Lacroix.
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And in an enchanting city,
there are night-time celebrations.
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A really special occasion.
I've gate-crashed it.
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Thank goodness I dressed up.
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Join me on my Silk Road Adventure!
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Persia, as Iran used to be called,
31
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was famed for
its wealth and sophistication
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and was the beating heart
of the Silk Road.
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Starting from its capital, Tehran,
34
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we'll cross deserts and visit oases
35
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to the ancient glorious city
of Persepolis.
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00:01:58,960 --> 00:02:01,960
Iran is very much
off the typical tourist trail.
37
00:02:01,960 --> 00:02:03,960
This once centre of the known world
38
00:02:03,960 --> 00:02:05,960
feels almost like a hidden state.
39
00:02:07,960 --> 00:02:09,960
When I was growing up,
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Iran was epitomised by the Shah
and his immense wealth
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built largely
from the Iranian oil reserves.
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CHEERING
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In 1979, Ayatollah Khomeini
and the Islamic Revolution
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swept into power.
45
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Iran increasingly became
isolated from the West
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and was later branded by George Bush
as part of the "axis of evil"
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and continues to be viewed by
some in the West as a pariah state
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with nuclear ambitions.
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00:02:38,320 --> 00:02:40,960
I've always wanted to visit Iran
50
00:02:40,960 --> 00:02:41,960
and go behind the politics
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and see the country
and the people who live there.
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If you come here, though,
you have to conform.
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00:02:49,960 --> 00:02:53,960
Modest dress and headscarves
are enforced by law in Iran
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and visiting foreigners
are no exception.
55
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Staying both stylish
and within the law
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is no mean feat
57
00:02:59,960 --> 00:03:03,960
so I've asked Reihane Taravati to
help me out with a spot of shopping.
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00:03:06,960 --> 00:03:07,960
Where are we going now?
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00:03:07,960 --> 00:03:10,640
We are going to Melal Mall,
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00:03:10,640 --> 00:03:12,000
a very new shopping centre,
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which is very much trendy.
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00:03:15,160 --> 00:03:17,960
This is so far
from the Tehran I'd imagined.
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00:03:18,960 --> 00:03:21,960
EXHALES HEAVILY
This is fantastic.
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Facebook and Twitter
are banned in Iran,
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but Instagram is not.
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00:03:28,960 --> 00:03:30,960
Last year alone, 23 million Iranians
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opened a social media account
for the first time.
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And Reihane is one of the country's
top social media influencers.
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So what social media has done
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00:03:40,480 --> 00:03:44,960
is linked Iran and the young people
of Iran with the world.
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I follow Vogue.
Yes.
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00:03:46,960 --> 00:03:49,000
I follow Time magazine,
is my favourite.
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Do you?
Yeah. I read Elle.
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00:03:51,960 --> 00:03:53,480
Marie Claire.
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Wow.
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00:03:54,960 --> 00:03:56,960
Yeah, no...
We never think...
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00:03:56,960 --> 00:03:59,960
Look, scarves!
This is what I'm looking for.
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00:03:59,960 --> 00:04:01,960
Reihane and I were just getting
to some important issues,
79
00:04:01,960 --> 00:04:04,960
but I've been distracted
by some shiny, silky things.
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00:04:04,960 --> 00:04:07,960
Salam.
Salam. Come in.
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00:04:07,960 --> 00:04:09,960
I'd like to get something that
I could wear with this.
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00:04:09,960 --> 00:04:12,480
I love good colours. Look at
this colour. Something smaller,
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like yours,
that I could twist around my head.
84
00:04:14,960 --> 00:04:17,640
That would go with anything.
Would that look good with this?
85
00:04:17,640 --> 00:04:19,960
Will you help me? Oh, darling,
you're just the person I want.
86
00:04:19,960 --> 00:04:22,960
You like the fabric?I think
it's lovely. It's lovely and light.
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00:04:22,960 --> 00:04:24,960
I'm pretty much adoring that.
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00:04:24,960 --> 00:04:27,000
I'd like to get the viewers' votes
at home on this.
89
00:04:28,000 --> 00:04:31,960
If I was on Instagram, people would
tell me at once, wouldn't they?
90
00:04:33,160 --> 00:04:35,000
So now, let's have a look at it.
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00:04:35,000 --> 00:04:38,800
Christian Lacroix.
Lacroix, sweetie, Lacroix.
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00:04:38,800 --> 00:04:39,960
So there we are.
93
00:04:39,960 --> 00:04:41,960
I've a feeling
it's a king's ransom.
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Do I care? Not a jot.
95
00:04:43,960 --> 00:04:45,960
See, this is gorgeous, isn't it?
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00:04:45,960 --> 00:04:47,960
Where shall we go now?
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This shopping trip is changing
all my preconceptions.
98
00:04:57,160 --> 00:04:59,960
You see, the thing is, Reihane, we
in the West,
99
00:04:59,960 --> 00:05:02,960
most of the stuff we hear
from the Middle East
100
00:05:02,960 --> 00:05:06,960
and Central Asia are war stories
and horrible stories.
101
00:05:06,960 --> 00:05:08,800
I know.
And we never see the beauty.
102
00:05:08,800 --> 00:05:11,960
That's why I actually like
the social media a lot
103
00:05:11,960 --> 00:05:14,960
because, you know, you can see
the real people of Iran.
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00:05:14,960 --> 00:05:17,960
Their homes, their stories.
105
00:05:17,960 --> 00:05:19,960
And it's kind of more true...
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00:05:19,960 --> 00:05:20,960
Yes, it is.
I get that feeling.
107
00:05:20,960 --> 00:05:22,960
And you get the absolute feeling
108
00:05:22,960 --> 00:05:24,960
that you are looking
out to the world
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00:05:24,960 --> 00:05:26,960
and the world can look
back in to you. Yeah.
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00:05:30,000 --> 00:05:31,960
Tehran is also famous
111
00:05:31,960 --> 00:05:35,960
for having some of the worst
traffic jams in the world.
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Which doesn't help
when you have to cross town
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00:05:37,960 --> 00:05:40,000
to meet one of the country's
biggest movie stars,
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Bahram Radan.
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00:05:42,960 --> 00:05:44,960
He's known as Iran's Brad Pitt
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and he's currently filming
a taekwondo action movie.
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Bahram. Hi.Good to meet you.
Nice to meet you.
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00:05:52,960 --> 00:05:54,480
How lovely to meet you.
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00:05:54,480 --> 00:05:55,960
Thank you so much.
Welcome to Iran.
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00:05:55,960 --> 00:05:57,960
Well, I... Thank you for
letting us come to watch this.
121
00:05:57,960 --> 00:05:59,960
This is a rehearsal?
122
00:05:59,960 --> 00:06:01,960
Yes, this is the rehearsal day.
123
00:06:04,960 --> 00:06:07,960
Bahram, is cinema very popular
here in Iran? Yeah.Yes.
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00:06:07,960 --> 00:06:08,960
It is, it is, it is.
125
00:06:08,960 --> 00:06:10,960
And you make how many films a year?
126
00:06:10,960 --> 00:06:13,960
More than 150, I guess.
EXHALES HEAVILY
127
00:06:13,960 --> 00:06:14,960
Yeah, yeah.It's huge.
It's huge.
128
00:06:14,960 --> 00:06:16,960
It's a huge industry, actually.
Yes.
129
00:06:16,960 --> 00:06:18,480
That's far more than we make
in Britain.
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00:06:18,480 --> 00:06:19,960
And what are the chances of
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00:06:19,960 --> 00:06:22,960
me coming to work in Iran
in the film industry?
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00:06:22,960 --> 00:06:24,320
You wanna learn Farsi?
Yeah.
133
00:06:24,320 --> 00:06:26,960
Definitely. Let's do that.
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00:06:26,960 --> 00:06:29,960
Or maybe I can play a foreigner.
Oh, yeah.
135
00:06:29,960 --> 00:06:32,960
A hated foreigner.
I would be a beastly woman
136
00:06:32,960 --> 00:06:35,960
from overseas
who couldn't speak Farsi.
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00:06:35,960 --> 00:06:37,960
We should give it a try.
Oh, wouldn't it be wonderful?
138
00:06:37,960 --> 00:06:39,960
Yeah, I think so.
139
00:06:39,960 --> 00:06:42,000
But an added complication
to acting in Iran
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that I hadn't considered
are the restrictions between sexes.
141
00:06:46,640 --> 00:06:48,960
You know,
we have so many boundaries.
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We have so many limitations.
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00:06:50,960 --> 00:06:55,960
How when I cannot touch any woman.
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if I wanna hug my, my, my mother
in the movie, I can't.
145
00:07:00,960 --> 00:07:02,960
You can't?
I can't.
146
00:07:02,960 --> 00:07:05,960
So me and the director,
and all these other staff...
147
00:07:05,960 --> 00:07:07,960
You have to work out a way...
148
00:07:07,960 --> 00:07:12,960
You have to work on how
we can deliver our messages
149
00:07:12,960 --> 00:07:15,960
with all those limitations,
you know?
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So that's a little bit hard.
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But at the same time,
I'm so happy that I'm working with
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a very, very talented
group of people...
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Yes. ..that can,
with all these limitations,
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they can do masterpieces.
Yes.
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I hope it'll change soon for you.
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LAUGHS
I'm sure it will.
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It's been a privilege. Thank you,
Bahram. Thank you.Thank you.
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If I had a bit of paper,
I'd ask for your autograph.
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00:07:48,480 --> 00:07:49,960
Oh!
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00:07:54,960 --> 00:07:58,960
I have sampled modern Tehran but,
before I leave the capital,
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I want to glimpse the splendour
of its magnificent imperial past.
162
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This is Golestan Palace,
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00:08:06,960 --> 00:08:08,960
the former home
of the Shahs of Iran,
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and still an ornate reminder
of the wealth and excesses
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of the old monarchy.
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EXHALES HEAVILY
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It's like being in a jewel box.
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And this is
the huge yellow marble throne.
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And these huge awnings
would be rolled up
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and then, sitting here,
the Shah would see all the people
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who'd come to have an audience.
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It's sensational.
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GASPS
Oh, look. Come, come, come, come.
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Paintings of the Shahs with
their great jewelled crowns
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and carrying weapons.
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Naser al-Din made
the biggest changes to the palace
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in the 19th century.
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Known for
his over-the-top lifestyle,
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he was a fan of all things European
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and took design inspiration
from the Palace of Versailles.
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Every part of every single surface
decorated.
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00:09:07,960 --> 00:09:09,960
And when you look up there,
183
00:09:09,960 --> 00:09:13,480
it's like looking at
a heavenly piece of jewellery.
184
00:09:13,480 --> 00:09:16,960
The fineness of the glasswork.
185
00:09:21,960 --> 00:09:23,960
I'm so pleased I've seen this.
186
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I wouldn't have believed it.
You can't get it from photographs.
187
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The temperature is soaring,
188
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but the Silk Road
is beckoning me south,
189
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where it's in the 40s.
190
00:09:42,320 --> 00:09:45,800
Most tourists overlook
the small city of Kashan,
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but it's got several jewels
192
00:09:46,960 --> 00:09:48,960
that I'm hoping are worth
the long, thirsty drive.
193
00:09:50,960 --> 00:09:52,960
With me is Mahnaz Mohammadi,
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00:09:52,960 --> 00:09:54,320
a film-maker from Tehran,
195
00:09:54,320 --> 00:09:57,960
who's guiding me through
this scorching, arid landscape.
196
00:09:57,960 --> 00:09:59,960
I'm looking on each side.
It's so bleak.
197
00:09:59,960 --> 00:10:02,800
We've got a few mountains,
but it's...
198
00:10:02,800 --> 00:10:04,800
A little bit of grass growing.
Yeah.
199
00:10:04,800 --> 00:10:06,960
But we've seen some deserts,
haven't we?
200
00:10:06,960 --> 00:10:08,960
Yeah.
Deserts everywhere.
201
00:10:10,960 --> 00:10:12,960
To survive the desert
202
00:10:12,960 --> 00:10:14,960
and take their silks and carpets
out beyond Persia,
203
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traders followed
ancient camel routes
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from watering hole to watering hole.
205
00:10:21,160 --> 00:10:24,960
Do you want some of your lovely
aloe vera? Thank you so much.
206
00:10:25,960 --> 00:10:29,640
What have I got? Mogu Mogu.
Pink guava-flavoured drink.
207
00:10:29,640 --> 00:10:32,960
"Gotta chew," it says.
"Gotta chew." What does that mean?
208
00:10:34,960 --> 00:10:36,960
This, incidentally, "gotta chew",
209
00:10:36,960 --> 00:10:39,640
means it's got lumps of stuff in it.
Mm.
210
00:10:39,640 --> 00:10:41,640
It might be guava, it might not be.
211
00:10:41,640 --> 00:10:45,800
It says with coconut in it
so I've got little blobs of coconut.
212
00:10:45,800 --> 00:10:46,960
Very nice.
213
00:10:48,960 --> 00:10:52,960
Over time, these little oases
grew into major trading posts.
214
00:10:52,960 --> 00:10:55,960
One of the most important
was here in Kashan.
215
00:10:58,960 --> 00:11:01,960
Today it's a small city of 300,000
216
00:11:01,960 --> 00:11:04,960
and only gets a handful
of foreign visitors a year.
217
00:11:07,960 --> 00:11:11,800
Yet, prized Persian carpets
are still handmade here,
218
00:11:11,800 --> 00:11:13,960
but you do need to know
where to look for them.
219
00:11:23,960 --> 00:11:28,640
Mariyam Khavaki comes from a
long line of Kashan carpet weavers.
220
00:11:28,640 --> 00:11:29,960
Look at this work.
221
00:11:29,960 --> 00:11:31,960
This seems like alchemy to me,
222
00:11:31,960 --> 00:11:34,960
to see what seem to be
completely random threads.
223
00:11:34,960 --> 00:11:36,960
Mariyam, how old were you
224
00:11:36,960 --> 00:11:39,960
when you started to learn
how to weave carpets?
225
00:11:47,960 --> 00:11:49,960
And so generation after generation.
226
00:11:49,960 --> 00:11:52,960
Great-grandmothers teaching
daughters, down, down, down.
227
00:11:52,960 --> 00:11:54,960
Now we get Mariyam.
228
00:11:54,960 --> 00:11:58,640
And so her hands, these little
hands, are very skilled.
229
00:11:58,640 --> 00:12:00,960
With the stiffness, I couldn't see,
but now it comes round one,
230
00:12:00,960 --> 00:12:03,960
round the other, back there,
pulled down, cut.
231
00:12:03,960 --> 00:12:04,960
Yes.
232
00:12:04,960 --> 00:12:07,960
But then all the time
following this pattern.
233
00:12:07,960 --> 00:12:11,960
It's quite phenomenal and
it's growing in front of our eyes.
234
00:12:12,960 --> 00:12:17,480
How long has it taken you, Mariyam,
to make this much carpet here?
235
00:12:24,960 --> 00:12:26,960
20 days.20 days?
Yes.
236
00:12:29,960 --> 00:12:31,960
Long day, long day.
Thank you.
237
00:12:31,960 --> 00:12:34,960
And what about the birds?
Do they keep you company?
238
00:12:40,480 --> 00:12:42,960
When we go to a shop
and buy a Persian carpet,
239
00:12:42,960 --> 00:12:46,960
I had no idea that someone like
Mariyam has sat here and made it
240
00:12:46,960 --> 00:12:48,960
day after day.
I'm going, "Mm, I love that one."
241
00:12:48,960 --> 00:12:52,000
And all these hours of toil.
242
00:12:52,000 --> 00:12:56,000
Women around the world
making things of such beauty.
243
00:12:57,960 --> 00:13:02,480
Look. I wish this carpet were
finished now, I'd buy it from you.
244
00:13:04,960 --> 00:13:08,960
You are wonderful.
245
00:13:08,960 --> 00:13:10,960
You're brilliant.
246
00:13:12,800 --> 00:13:15,160
When Marco Polo visited here
800 years ago,
247
00:13:15,160 --> 00:13:19,960
he was told that the Three Wise Men
who followed the star
248
00:13:19,960 --> 00:13:21,320
came from Kashan.
249
00:13:21,320 --> 00:13:23,960
And it's a story
that's still around today.
250
00:13:26,800 --> 00:13:27,960
On the outskirts of Kashan
251
00:13:27,960 --> 00:13:30,960
lies one of Iran's
oldest and greatest treasures.
252
00:13:40,960 --> 00:13:41,960
This is the Fin Garden.
253
00:13:41,960 --> 00:13:44,800
It's "chahar bagh"
because it's laid out
254
00:13:44,800 --> 00:13:47,960
in the traditional style
of four gardens
255
00:13:47,960 --> 00:13:49,960
divided by running waterways,
256
00:13:49,960 --> 00:13:52,960
shaded by tall, cool trees
like this.
257
00:13:53,960 --> 00:13:55,320
Absolutely peaceful.
258
00:13:57,960 --> 00:13:59,960
It's the oldest Persian garden
still in existence.
259
00:13:59,960 --> 00:14:05,160
Built in 1590 and following the
tradition of the Paradise Garden.
260
00:14:06,960 --> 00:14:09,960
At the very heart is a spring
that rises up in the central pool,
261
00:14:09,960 --> 00:14:13,960
before cascading out
into all four corners.
262
00:14:13,960 --> 00:14:16,960
Paradise sort of means
the walled garden.
263
00:14:16,960 --> 00:14:18,960
And here, we're looking at
hedges and trees,
264
00:14:18,960 --> 00:14:20,960
which are quite normal
for us in the UK.
265
00:14:20,960 --> 00:14:22,960
But just beyond there,
266
00:14:22,960 --> 00:14:24,960
it's a raging desert.
267
00:14:24,960 --> 00:14:26,960
It's flat, it's baking hot.
268
00:14:29,480 --> 00:14:30,960
Can you imagine in the old days,
269
00:14:30,960 --> 00:14:33,320
to come inside
and to hear running water,
270
00:14:33,320 --> 00:14:35,640
and to have shadow and shade,
271
00:14:35,640 --> 00:14:37,960
and order laid out in front of you?
272
00:14:39,960 --> 00:14:42,960
In a suitably cool corner
of the garden, I meet Mr Aminian,
273
00:14:42,960 --> 00:14:46,960
who has spent his career
protecting this jewel of Kashan.
274
00:14:48,000 --> 00:14:50,960
Mr Aminian, this looks so inviting.
275
00:14:50,960 --> 00:14:53,960
Can we take our shoes and socks off
and put our feet in the water?
276
00:14:56,960 --> 00:14:59,960
I'm going to get
some miraculous water on my feet.
277
00:14:59,960 --> 00:15:02,960
Mr Aminian, do you have
a garden of your own?
278
00:15:11,960 --> 00:15:14,640
Who was it who thought of this idea?
279
00:16:00,960 --> 00:16:03,800
Thank you. Merci.
Thank you so much.
280
00:16:08,960 --> 00:16:09,960
This idea was revolutionary.
281
00:16:09,960 --> 00:16:12,960
It actually hadn't happened
anywhere in the world.
282
00:16:12,960 --> 00:16:14,000
And this idea went across to China
283
00:16:14,000 --> 00:16:16,960
for irrigation,
for watering plants and things.
284
00:16:16,960 --> 00:16:18,960
But once this idea caught fire
and the world had seen it,
285
00:16:18,960 --> 00:16:21,960
like with so many other things,
286
00:16:21,960 --> 00:16:22,960
Persia was leading the way.
287
00:16:22,960 --> 00:16:24,960
Dragging myself away from
288
00:16:24,960 --> 00:16:28,160
the peace and tranquillity
of the Paradise Garden...
289
00:16:29,960 --> 00:16:33,960
..next is the former dazzling
capital of ancient Persia,
290
00:16:33,960 --> 00:16:34,960
Isfahan.
291
00:16:42,960 --> 00:16:45,960
Isfahan is the real crossroads
of the Silk Road
292
00:16:45,960 --> 00:16:48,160
and was a pivotal point
in the Persian Empire.
293
00:16:49,960 --> 00:16:52,960
It's where the old trade route
from north to south
294
00:16:52,960 --> 00:16:54,960
joins the one from east to west.
295
00:16:56,480 --> 00:17:00,960
And the jewel in the crown
of Isfahan is Naqsh-e Jahan Square.
296
00:17:04,800 --> 00:17:06,960
Oh, well!
297
00:17:06,960 --> 00:17:08,960
It's colossal.
298
00:17:08,960 --> 00:17:11,960
Three times the size of
St Mark's in Venice,
299
00:17:11,960 --> 00:17:15,320
it's the largest enclosed square
in the world.
300
00:17:16,960 --> 00:17:19,960
It was built by Shah Abbas I
in the 16th century,
301
00:17:19,960 --> 00:17:23,320
who's said to be as cruel
as Ivan the Terrible,
302
00:17:23,320 --> 00:17:25,960
and as canny as Elizabeth I.
303
00:17:25,960 --> 00:17:29,640
Look at this.
I'm on this great, great terrace,
304
00:17:29,640 --> 00:17:31,960
the King's Palace, Ali Qapu,
305
00:17:31,960 --> 00:17:33,960
looking over the phenomenal square.
306
00:17:33,960 --> 00:17:35,960
What is this vast space?
307
00:17:35,960 --> 00:17:37,960
Is it just a garden or a park?
Well, it is now.
308
00:17:37,960 --> 00:17:39,960
But in the old days,
it was a polo ground
309
00:17:39,960 --> 00:17:42,640
and the King would come out and
watch his favourite polo players,
310
00:17:42,640 --> 00:17:43,960
his favourite horses, perhaps.
311
00:17:43,960 --> 00:17:46,960
And of course, he was in an ideal
position,
312
00:17:46,960 --> 00:17:48,960
got about 3km of shopping
wrapped all around here,
313
00:17:48,960 --> 00:17:51,960
and he's got a personal little
mosque there over there.
314
00:17:51,960 --> 00:17:52,960
Absolutely sumptuous.
315
00:17:54,640 --> 00:17:57,960
I think some of you are anxious
about what I'm wearing on my head.
316
00:17:57,960 --> 00:17:59,960
Now, look, this is the problem,
317
00:17:59,960 --> 00:18:04,000
one of the crew said that
I reminded him of Hilda Ogden.
318
00:18:04,000 --> 00:18:08,960
So today I'm rocking
the Florida golf widow look.
319
00:18:08,960 --> 00:18:11,480
I hope you like it.
It may change again.
320
00:18:13,960 --> 00:18:16,480
This, I feel,
is the nearest I've got to
321
00:18:16,480 --> 00:18:20,960
what I feel the Silk Road would have
been like 400 or 500 years ago.
322
00:18:20,960 --> 00:18:23,320
You would have seen
silk merchants from China,
323
00:18:23,320 --> 00:18:25,480
spice traders from India,
324
00:18:25,480 --> 00:18:28,160
Persian carpets,
and silver jewellery.
325
00:18:31,160 --> 00:18:33,640
Can't be drinking tea
in our carpet shop.
326
00:18:33,640 --> 00:18:35,960
English people likes tea very much.
We like tea and we like carpets.
327
00:18:35,960 --> 00:18:37,480
We like tea and carpets.
328
00:18:37,480 --> 00:18:39,800
And this looks like silk.
Is this silk?
329
00:18:39,800 --> 00:18:41,960
Yeah, this one is 100% silk.
It's a hunting design.
330
00:18:41,960 --> 00:18:43,960
It's one of the oldest patterns.
331
00:18:43,960 --> 00:18:44,960
Isn't that gorgeous?
332
00:18:44,960 --> 00:18:47,480
This, also, is a way to park
your bike. I love it.
333
00:18:47,480 --> 00:18:49,000
Just leave it there
so people can see it.
334
00:18:49,000 --> 00:18:50,960
There will be no stumbling
on the bike.
335
00:18:50,960 --> 00:18:52,960
Leave it there,
336
00:18:52,960 --> 00:18:53,960
in the middle of the road.
337
00:18:53,960 --> 00:18:55,960
MAN PLAYS FLUTE
338
00:18:59,960 --> 00:19:03,800
400 years ago, Isfahan was one
of the largest cities in the world.
339
00:19:03,800 --> 00:19:07,640
Bigger than London
and more cosmopolitan than Paris.
340
00:19:07,640 --> 00:19:09,160
This is good price.
May I see?
341
00:19:09,160 --> 00:19:10,640
Yes.
342
00:19:13,960 --> 00:19:15,960
TAPPING OF METAL
I can hear lovely tapping sounds.
343
00:19:15,960 --> 00:19:18,960
This is what I love -
the sound of metal workers.
344
00:19:18,960 --> 00:19:20,960
It means there's an artisan at work.
345
00:19:20,960 --> 00:19:23,960
So when he's finished chipping
with his sharpened chisel,
346
00:19:23,960 --> 00:19:27,960
when he's finished cutting it out,
this outside bit will lift off,
347
00:19:27,960 --> 00:19:28,960
and set it against black velvet.
348
00:19:28,960 --> 00:19:30,960
Look how fine it is.
349
00:19:32,960 --> 00:19:36,160
So this is a gorgeous picture
of two, I think, mythical birds.
350
00:19:36,160 --> 00:19:38,960
Seems to have
a great Chinese influence
351
00:19:38,960 --> 00:19:40,000
and I wonder if these ideas of art
352
00:19:40,000 --> 00:19:43,960
were flowing to and from
the Silk Road for centuries.
353
00:19:43,960 --> 00:19:46,960
And somebody seeing it and going,
"Mm, I pretty much like that.
354
00:19:46,960 --> 00:19:48,480
"I could do that
in my own workshop."
355
00:19:48,480 --> 00:19:50,960
And this is how ideas
gradually work their way back.
356
00:19:52,960 --> 00:19:54,640
The power hungry Shah Abbas
357
00:19:54,640 --> 00:19:57,960
had a cunning reason for building
the market right next to his palace.
358
00:19:59,960 --> 00:20:02,960
It helped him to control trade.
359
00:20:02,960 --> 00:20:03,960
And he didn't stop there.
360
00:20:03,960 --> 00:20:05,960
Oh, look.
361
00:20:05,960 --> 00:20:07,960
This is the great mosque at the end.
362
00:20:10,480 --> 00:20:13,000
He also wanted to control
the power of the clergy.
363
00:20:14,960 --> 00:20:18,960
So at one end of his giant square,
he built a huge public mosque
364
00:20:18,960 --> 00:20:21,160
and called it the Royal Mosque.
365
00:20:23,960 --> 00:20:25,960
Because it's being restored,
366
00:20:25,960 --> 00:20:27,960
we've been asked
not to take our shoes off.
367
00:20:29,960 --> 00:20:31,960
EXHALES HEAVILY
368
00:20:31,960 --> 00:20:33,000
Look at this...
369
00:20:34,960 --> 00:20:37,000
..staggering great dome.
370
00:20:52,960 --> 00:20:55,800
The magnificent 53 metre-high dome
371
00:20:55,800 --> 00:20:57,000
was cleverly designed so that
372
00:20:57,000 --> 00:21:00,960
the voice of someone speaking
from directly below its centre
373
00:21:00,960 --> 00:21:03,960
is echoed around the huge interior.
374
00:21:03,960 --> 00:21:05,960
And here's
the famous mark of the centre,
375
00:21:05,960 --> 00:21:09,960
which means that it's right
underneath the middle of the dome.
376
00:21:09,960 --> 00:21:12,960
And I think that
if I clapped here...
377
00:21:12,960 --> 00:21:13,960
CLAPS AND CLAP ECHOES
378
00:21:16,960 --> 00:21:19,960
Can you hear that?
CLAP ECHOES
379
00:21:19,960 --> 00:21:22,160
That's what I call a ricochet.
380
00:21:22,160 --> 00:21:23,960
CLAP ECHOES
381
00:21:23,960 --> 00:21:27,160
SINGING COMES FROM THE MOSQUE
382
00:21:34,960 --> 00:21:37,640
Our visit to Iran coincided
with the month of Ramadan,
383
00:21:37,640 --> 00:21:40,960
when Muslims fast
during daylight hours.
384
00:21:42,480 --> 00:21:44,960
We were told that the Great Square
385
00:21:44,960 --> 00:21:47,960
would really come to life
in the evening.
386
00:21:47,960 --> 00:21:51,480
And I just couldn't resist
another visit to the Aladdin's cave
387
00:21:51,480 --> 00:21:52,960
that is the great bazaar.
388
00:21:52,960 --> 00:21:53,960
Oh, look, look, look.
389
00:21:53,960 --> 00:21:56,640
How beautiful. It's full of carpets.
This is divine. Here you are.
390
00:21:56,640 --> 00:21:57,960
Can we come in? Thank you.
GASPS
391
00:21:57,960 --> 00:21:59,960
How wonderful.
392
00:21:59,960 --> 00:22:01,960
What a collection you have here.
393
00:22:01,960 --> 00:22:05,960
We have around 2,700 years' history
for Persian carpet.
394
00:22:05,960 --> 00:22:07,960
Well...
Yes.
395
00:22:07,960 --> 00:22:08,960
And all have a meaning.
396
00:22:10,960 --> 00:22:12,960
Ali Bordbar
has travelled extensively,
397
00:22:12,960 --> 00:22:14,960
spending time with nomads.
398
00:22:14,960 --> 00:22:18,000
This carpet is from Baluch,
another tribe of nomads.
399
00:22:18,000 --> 00:22:19,960
Southeast part of Iran.
400
00:22:19,960 --> 00:22:22,960
He learnt that every carpet
tells a different story.
401
00:22:23,960 --> 00:22:25,960
This type of chicken,
402
00:22:25,960 --> 00:22:28,960
this is a symbol of richness
in Persian carpet.Is it? Yes.
403
00:22:28,960 --> 00:22:31,960
This is symbol of ice.
That shows the nomad hospitality.
404
00:22:31,960 --> 00:22:33,960
How lovely. Thank you.
405
00:22:33,960 --> 00:22:35,960
Each carpet, it turns out,
406
00:22:35,960 --> 00:22:38,960
is rich with the meaning of
the life of the person who made it.
407
00:22:38,960 --> 00:22:40,960
This is the mother and son paisley.
408
00:22:40,960 --> 00:22:43,960
So little one inside
the bigger paisley. Yes.
409
00:22:43,960 --> 00:22:46,960
Same as the pregnant.
And the life start.
410
00:22:47,960 --> 00:22:52,480
I had no idea that there were
so many different kinds of carpets.
411
00:22:52,480 --> 00:22:54,960
You think of Persian carpet,
"I'd love a Persian carpet."
412
00:22:54,960 --> 00:22:57,960
Now you see there's an absolute
plethora of different ones,
413
00:22:57,960 --> 00:23:00,960
nomadic ones,
kilims, city carpets.
414
00:23:00,960 --> 00:23:01,960
Beautiful.
Thank you.
415
00:23:01,960 --> 00:23:04,640
Thank you so much.
You're welcome. You're welcome.
416
00:23:04,640 --> 00:23:06,640
It's been such a revelation
talking to you.
417
00:23:06,640 --> 00:23:07,960
Our pleasure.
418
00:23:09,640 --> 00:23:11,960
SINGING COMING FROM THE MOSQUE
419
00:23:13,480 --> 00:23:15,960
How lovely this looks
in the evening.
420
00:23:15,960 --> 00:23:17,640
Look at this place.
421
00:23:18,960 --> 00:23:21,960
During Ramadan,
called Ramazan here,
422
00:23:21,960 --> 00:23:25,640
the sound of evening prayers signals
the end of the fast for the day.
423
00:23:25,640 --> 00:23:27,960
And this prayer?
Azan.Azan.
424
00:23:27,960 --> 00:23:30,960
After that,
they will start to pray.
425
00:23:30,960 --> 00:23:32,960
And break the fast.
Yeah.
426
00:23:32,960 --> 00:23:35,960
Yes, look, here are people here,
sitting down,
427
00:23:35,960 --> 00:23:38,800
breaking up, eating something.
CHATTER
428
00:23:39,960 --> 00:23:43,320
Look at that little gang
of chattering, chattering children.
429
00:23:44,960 --> 00:23:46,960
I think they're asking us
to join them.
430
00:23:47,960 --> 00:23:49,960
Salam. Hello.
431
00:23:49,960 --> 00:23:51,960
And it would be rude not to.
432
00:23:51,960 --> 00:23:55,960
They've all got
a little small dish of food,
433
00:23:55,960 --> 00:23:56,960
they haven't started yet,
434
00:23:56,960 --> 00:24:00,320
in front of them. And
they'll be given a sign... a sign,
435
00:24:00,320 --> 00:24:01,960
I think, that they can start eating.
436
00:24:01,960 --> 00:24:04,960
SINGING AND CLAPPING
437
00:24:11,800 --> 00:24:13,960
My name is Joanna.
Joanna.
438
00:24:15,960 --> 00:24:18,160
It's rice, and sort of saffron rice,
439
00:24:18,160 --> 00:24:19,960
pickled cabbage,
440
00:24:19,960 --> 00:24:22,320
some oniony bits.
441
00:24:23,160 --> 00:24:25,800
It turned out that
this was a special evening
442
00:24:25,800 --> 00:24:26,960
for these young lads.
443
00:24:26,960 --> 00:24:28,960
They were leaving
their local primary school.
444
00:24:29,960 --> 00:24:31,800
Isn't that lovely?
This is graduation.
445
00:24:31,800 --> 00:24:33,960
But it's special.
It's not an everyday occurrence.
446
00:24:33,960 --> 00:24:35,960
Iftarin the evening of Ramazan,
447
00:24:35,960 --> 00:24:38,000
it's a really special occasion.
I've gate-crashed it.
448
00:24:38,000 --> 00:24:40,800
Thank goodness I dressed up.
449
00:24:41,960 --> 00:24:45,960
Reza Ghasemi, one of the teachers
from Nategh Elementary School,
450
00:24:45,960 --> 00:24:47,960
has helped to organise the picnic.
451
00:24:47,960 --> 00:24:49,960
Is tonight a big celebration?
452
00:25:26,960 --> 00:25:29,000
The palatial buildings
and gigantic square here
453
00:25:29,000 --> 00:25:30,960
were so impressive
454
00:25:30,960 --> 00:25:33,960
that residents boasted that
"Isfahan is half the world".
455
00:25:36,960 --> 00:25:38,160
But it's time to leave
456
00:25:38,160 --> 00:25:42,320
and follow in Marco Polo's footsteps
even deeper into the desert,
457
00:25:42,320 --> 00:25:43,960
to an ancient place,
458
00:25:43,960 --> 00:25:48,960
where a sacred fire, thousands
of years old, is still alight.
459
00:25:56,960 --> 00:26:01,960
When the great explorer Marco Polo
travelled through Persia in 1292,
460
00:26:01,960 --> 00:26:05,320
he wrote of
a remote, good, and noble city,
461
00:26:05,320 --> 00:26:09,640
where they made a much sought-after
type of silk known as Yazdi.
462
00:26:09,640 --> 00:26:12,960
The city he was describing is Yazd.
463
00:26:12,960 --> 00:26:15,960
Lying on the border of
Iran's two largest deserts,
464
00:26:15,960 --> 00:26:18,320
it's one of the oldest cities
on Earth.
465
00:26:19,960 --> 00:26:24,640
And its history helps explain
how the Silk Road allowed merchants
466
00:26:24,640 --> 00:26:28,960
to export not just valuable goods,
but also precious ideas.
467
00:26:28,960 --> 00:26:30,960
Well, this is the old part
of the city of Yazd,
468
00:26:30,960 --> 00:26:33,960
which is bang in the middle
of the desert.
469
00:26:33,960 --> 00:26:37,960
It's the most remote city I think
I've ever been to in my life.
470
00:26:37,960 --> 00:26:39,960
Marco Polo came here
about 800 years ago
471
00:26:39,960 --> 00:26:42,960
and he said, if you rode
in any direction for seven days,
472
00:26:42,960 --> 00:26:46,960
you'd be lucky to get
three little sips of water.
473
00:26:46,960 --> 00:26:48,960
It's so remote.
474
00:26:50,960 --> 00:26:54,960
The house-builders in Yazd also
invented a revolutionary technology,
475
00:26:54,960 --> 00:26:57,960
an ingenious idea that
was carried along the Silk Road
476
00:26:57,960 --> 00:27:00,960
to countries right across
the Middle East and North Africa.
477
00:27:00,960 --> 00:27:04,320
The world's first
air conditioning system.
478
00:27:04,320 --> 00:27:09,960
And these fine, beautiful,
strange, upright, box-looking things
479
00:27:09,960 --> 00:27:11,960
are wind chimneys.
480
00:27:11,960 --> 00:27:14,960
They draw the air in,
even when it's been 42C outside,
481
00:27:14,960 --> 00:27:16,800
which it has been today
482
00:27:16,800 --> 00:27:18,960
and is pretty much now,
and it's hot.
483
00:27:18,960 --> 00:27:21,960
They cool the air as it comes down
484
00:27:21,960 --> 00:27:23,960
and so inside
these little hot mud huts,
485
00:27:23,960 --> 00:27:25,320
it's much cooler.
486
00:27:27,960 --> 00:27:30,960
Yazd is regarded as the most
beautiful desert city in the world.
487
00:27:30,960 --> 00:27:33,320
And despite its historic appearance,
488
00:27:33,320 --> 00:27:35,960
has a young, beating heart.
489
00:27:39,960 --> 00:27:41,960
This is what we know as charades,
490
00:27:41,960 --> 00:27:44,960
and I think
they call it pantomime here.
491
00:27:44,960 --> 00:27:46,960
Welcome to Iran.
Thank you. We love Iran.
492
00:27:46,960 --> 00:27:48,160
My friends.
493
00:27:48,160 --> 00:27:49,960
Yes.
University and from school.
494
00:27:49,960 --> 00:27:51,640
University?
Yes.
495
00:27:51,640 --> 00:27:52,960
University of Yazd.
496
00:27:52,960 --> 00:27:55,960
I wish I could join in.
I kind of love this game.
497
00:27:55,960 --> 00:27:57,960
LAUGHTER
498
00:28:06,960 --> 00:28:09,960
I don't know what the titles are
that they're doing.
499
00:28:09,960 --> 00:28:11,960
This lovely girl
is going to do it now.
500
00:28:11,960 --> 00:28:14,160
Ooh, that's hard.
What's it going to be, baby?
501
00:28:32,960 --> 00:28:34,960
Delve deeper
into the old town of Yazd
502
00:28:34,960 --> 00:28:36,960
and you'll find echoes of a time
503
00:28:36,960 --> 00:28:39,960
when a man couldn't even open
the door to a woman.
504
00:28:43,320 --> 00:28:46,800
Oh, look. I've heard of
these door knockers. Look.
505
00:28:46,800 --> 00:28:47,960
This is the man's door knocker,
506
00:28:47,960 --> 00:28:51,320
straight like that, well,
rather sort of graphic like that.
507
00:28:51,320 --> 00:28:53,960
And this is
the woman's door knocker. Look.
508
00:28:53,960 --> 00:28:56,320
So that when you're listening...
509
00:28:56,320 --> 00:28:57,960
RAPS THE KNOCKER
510
00:28:57,960 --> 00:29:00,960
That's women.
So you know that's a woman outside.
511
00:29:00,960 --> 00:29:02,960
In this case, me.
And this is men.
512
00:29:02,960 --> 00:29:04,160
RAPS KNOCKER
THAT EMITS A LOWER TONE
513
00:29:04,160 --> 00:29:05,960
Isn't that clever?
514
00:29:05,960 --> 00:29:07,960
Makes me think
how slow we are at home
515
00:29:07,960 --> 00:29:10,960
because we just go bing-bong,
and you've no idea.
516
00:29:10,960 --> 00:29:12,960
It could be the Avon lady.
I'm not advertising.
517
00:29:12,960 --> 00:29:14,960
It could just be the milkman...
518
00:29:14,960 --> 00:29:17,960
MUSIC: 'A Kind Of Magic'
by Queen
519
00:29:17,960 --> 00:29:20,960
It turns out that
Yazd has a surprising link
520
00:29:20,960 --> 00:29:22,960
to a legendary British rock star.
521
00:29:24,480 --> 00:29:27,960
Freddie Mercury was raised
as a Zoroastrian,
522
00:29:27,960 --> 00:29:32,640
a religion that originated
in Persia 3,500 years ago.
523
00:29:34,960 --> 00:29:36,960
In this
rather unprepossessing street
524
00:29:36,960 --> 00:29:40,960
sits one of the most important
temples to Zoroastrianism,
525
00:29:40,960 --> 00:29:43,960
one of the oldest religions
in the world.
526
00:29:43,960 --> 00:29:46,640
It spread from here with
the Silk Road traders,
527
00:29:46,640 --> 00:29:49,960
who moved gradually eastwards
to Central Asia, China and India,
528
00:29:49,960 --> 00:29:52,160
where Freddie's parents were born.
529
00:29:52,160 --> 00:29:55,960
Fire is sacred to Zoroastrians,
530
00:29:55,960 --> 00:29:57,960
both as a means of purification
531
00:29:57,960 --> 00:30:00,960
and a symbol of
their lord of wisdom, Ahura Mazda.
532
00:30:00,960 --> 00:30:03,960
This is the Temple of Fire in Yazd.
533
00:30:03,960 --> 00:30:06,960
So small, so elegant.
534
00:30:06,960 --> 00:30:09,960
There's a great symbol of
Zoroastrianism above the door.
535
00:30:09,960 --> 00:30:13,960
Huge spread wings,
an aged man with a great big beard
536
00:30:13,960 --> 00:30:16,960
holding one hand up
and a ring in the other.
537
00:30:16,960 --> 00:30:19,960
Here's this gorgeous symbol
telling me what it is.
538
00:30:19,960 --> 00:30:23,640
That hand reaching upwards to God,
and this hand holding a ring,
539
00:30:23,640 --> 00:30:25,960
symbolising that
you must keep your promises.
540
00:30:25,960 --> 00:30:27,960
And we have that today
in our wedding rings.
541
00:30:27,960 --> 00:30:29,640
We have that on our left finger.
542
00:30:29,640 --> 00:30:31,960
This is the bit that
I absolutely adore.
543
00:30:31,960 --> 00:30:33,480
It says, respect your elders.
544
00:30:33,480 --> 00:30:36,960
This is a special message
for teenagers who are watching this.
545
00:30:36,960 --> 00:30:38,960
Look to middle aged-people,
or even old people,
546
00:30:38,960 --> 00:30:40,960
or even quite wrinkly people
547
00:30:40,960 --> 00:30:42,960
because they know it all.
548
00:30:42,960 --> 00:30:44,960
They've done it all.
They have experience.
549
00:30:44,960 --> 00:30:47,960
I mean, I know all this because
I can obviously read fluent...
550
00:30:47,960 --> 00:30:50,960
I just knew it. I found I could...
Almost like speaking in tongues.
551
00:30:54,960 --> 00:30:57,960
Zoroastrians took refuge here
in this desert city
552
00:30:57,960 --> 00:31:00,960
after the Muslim conquest
of Persia in the seventh century
553
00:31:00,960 --> 00:31:04,960
and brought with them
their most treasured possession.
554
00:31:04,960 --> 00:31:06,960
And so here it is, the sacred fire.
555
00:31:06,960 --> 00:31:08,960
This particular piece of fire
556
00:31:08,960 --> 00:31:10,960
was taken from
an original piece of fire
557
00:31:10,960 --> 00:31:14,960
and this has been burning
for 1,400 years.
558
00:31:14,960 --> 00:31:16,960
It's absolutely extraordinary,
559
00:31:16,960 --> 00:31:19,800
to have come from the complexity
of the great mosques
560
00:31:19,800 --> 00:31:20,960
with all their splendour,
561
00:31:20,960 --> 00:31:24,160
to see this simple, bare,
little room.
562
00:31:24,160 --> 00:31:26,960
Zoroaster, the great priest,
563
00:31:26,960 --> 00:31:29,160
who's name is also Zarathustra.
564
00:31:30,640 --> 00:31:33,960
Also Sprach Zarathustra. You know
that famous piece which is played...
565
00:31:33,960 --> 00:31:36,640
MUSIC: 'Also Sprach Zarathustra'
by Richard Strauss
566
00:31:36,640 --> 00:31:39,160
Da, da, da, ba-da!
Richard Strauss.
567
00:31:39,160 --> 00:31:41,000
Play it now.
568
00:31:41,000 --> 00:31:42,960
That's it. That's Zarathustra.
569
00:31:49,960 --> 00:31:55,960
Fire influenced every aspect
of Zoroastrian life and death.
570
00:31:58,960 --> 00:32:01,960
These are ancient
hilltop burial grounds.
571
00:32:01,960 --> 00:32:03,160
Known as the Towers of Silence,
572
00:32:03,160 --> 00:32:06,480
they're an eerie tradition
of Zoroastrianism,
573
00:32:06,480 --> 00:32:10,960
the religion of Persia
for 1,000 years before Islam.
574
00:32:11,960 --> 00:32:14,960
Because Zoroastrians
believed that fire was sacred,
575
00:32:14,960 --> 00:32:17,480
they wouldn't contaminate
the fire with a dead body,
576
00:32:17,480 --> 00:32:20,480
so they're laid to rest up here.
Birds of the air come and eat them.
577
00:32:20,480 --> 00:32:22,960
Sky burial -
being eaten by the birds.
578
00:32:30,960 --> 00:32:32,960
We're over halfway through
our journey through Iran
579
00:32:32,960 --> 00:32:36,960
and I can't tell you
how pleased I am that I came here.
580
00:32:36,960 --> 00:32:38,960
I have to say,
I did have doubts about it.
581
00:32:38,960 --> 00:32:41,960
The difficulty with filming
and communicating with people.
582
00:32:41,960 --> 00:32:43,960
And that perhaps
we'd have been watched
583
00:32:43,960 --> 00:32:45,960
or judged in everything we did.
584
00:32:45,960 --> 00:32:47,960
I could not have been more wrong.
585
00:32:47,960 --> 00:32:50,960
It's been completely extraordinary.
586
00:32:50,960 --> 00:32:52,960
Fantastically welcoming.
587
00:32:52,960 --> 00:32:54,960
So kind and so friendly.
588
00:32:54,960 --> 00:32:56,960
It's just been a revelation.
589
00:32:58,800 --> 00:33:00,960
And another revelation is the food.
590
00:33:00,960 --> 00:33:03,480
I was anxious. Gosh, will it
all be kind of stewed goat?
591
00:33:03,480 --> 00:33:05,800
And I'm a vegetarian.
592
00:33:05,800 --> 00:33:07,960
Well, here I've eaten the best
vegetarian food in the world.
593
00:33:07,960 --> 00:33:09,960
And tonight, this is actually vegan.
594
00:33:09,960 --> 00:33:11,000
It's stewed vegetables and...
595
00:33:11,000 --> 00:33:13,960
Mmm. Absolutely delicious.
596
00:33:13,960 --> 00:33:15,960
We'll just have to take
a little piece of bread as well.
597
00:33:15,960 --> 00:33:20,160
I don't usually eat the bread.
You can tell. I'm slender.
598
00:33:20,160 --> 00:33:23,000
But now and then... Irresistible.
599
00:33:24,960 --> 00:33:26,320
The final leg of my journey
600
00:33:26,320 --> 00:33:28,960
is taking me somewhere
I've always longed to visit.
601
00:33:28,960 --> 00:33:32,320
These are the colossal walls
of Persepolis,
602
00:33:32,320 --> 00:33:35,480
one of the legendary cities
of the ancient world.
603
00:33:43,320 --> 00:33:45,960
We're on the last leg of
the Silk Road in Iran,
604
00:33:45,960 --> 00:33:49,960
and it's taking us right down
to the southwest of the country
605
00:33:49,960 --> 00:33:51,960
to Shiraz.
606
00:33:51,960 --> 00:33:53,960
So Shiraz.
607
00:33:53,960 --> 00:33:55,960
Oh, dream, dream,
dreaming of going to Shiraz!
608
00:33:55,960 --> 00:33:56,960
Yeah.
609
00:33:59,960 --> 00:34:01,960
Shiraz people... Are they?
610
00:34:05,160 --> 00:34:06,960
Here they're relaxing,
further south,
611
00:34:06,960 --> 00:34:09,960
relaxing in the heat
with the flowers
612
00:34:09,960 --> 00:34:11,960
and nightingales,
a glass of wine, poetry.
613
00:34:11,960 --> 00:34:13,800
Why would they work?
614
00:34:13,800 --> 00:34:14,960
I quite understand.
615
00:34:16,160 --> 00:34:17,960
How lovely.
Yeah.
616
00:34:26,960 --> 00:34:29,960
This is the Qur'an Gate,
the entrance to Shiraz.
617
00:34:29,960 --> 00:34:32,800
The tradition is that,
when you're going on a journey,
618
00:34:32,800 --> 00:34:35,960
somebody holds a copy of the holy
book, the Qur'an, over your head.
619
00:34:35,960 --> 00:34:39,960
You pass under it and that brings
you safe blessings for your journey.
620
00:34:39,960 --> 00:34:42,000
I haven't got
a copy of the Qur'an with me,
621
00:34:42,000 --> 00:34:44,960
but I've got the sun above
to give me blessings.
622
00:34:49,960 --> 00:34:50,960
Shiraz was an important stop
623
00:34:50,960 --> 00:34:54,000
for the caravan routes that ran down
to the Persian Gulf.
624
00:34:56,960 --> 00:34:58,960
It's the capital of Fars Province,
625
00:34:58,960 --> 00:35:01,960
from where the official language
of Iran, Farsi,
626
00:35:01,960 --> 00:35:03,640
takes its name.
627
00:35:03,640 --> 00:35:05,960
And I've got a very personal reason
for coming here.
628
00:35:08,960 --> 00:35:10,960
I'm so thrilled to be in Shiraz
629
00:35:10,960 --> 00:35:12,960
because my mother
was nearly born here.
630
00:35:12,960 --> 00:35:16,000
My grandfather was a young consul
at the time
631
00:35:16,000 --> 00:35:18,960
and one of his postings
was here, to Persia,
632
00:35:18,960 --> 00:35:20,960
and he was down in Shiraz.
633
00:35:20,960 --> 00:35:24,160
The dynasty he served under,
the Qajar dynasty,
634
00:35:24,160 --> 00:35:27,960
gave him the Star of Persia.
635
00:35:27,960 --> 00:35:29,960
You can see how beautiful it is.
That was the piece
636
00:35:29,960 --> 00:35:32,800
that would have been worn
on a ribbon around your neck.
637
00:35:32,800 --> 00:35:35,960
And this would have been worn
on your sash of office
638
00:35:35,960 --> 00:35:37,960
going across your chest.
639
00:35:37,960 --> 00:35:39,960
My grandmother, having left Persia,
640
00:35:39,960 --> 00:35:42,960
said that, of all the countries
in the world
641
00:35:42,960 --> 00:35:46,960
she wished to return to and
would love to live in, was Persia.
642
00:35:49,960 --> 00:35:52,960
I can just picture a pretty nice day
for my grandmother here.
643
00:35:52,960 --> 00:35:54,960
Painting in the morning
in that glorious garden,
644
00:35:54,960 --> 00:35:56,960
and then a spot of lunch.
645
00:35:56,960 --> 00:36:01,960
I'm going to go to a gorgeous
little restaurant.
646
00:36:01,960 --> 00:36:03,960
A Shirazi restaurant
with perfect food.
647
00:36:03,960 --> 00:36:05,960
I think that must be it.
Parhami.
648
00:36:05,960 --> 00:36:07,960
It's got a beautiful knocker
on the door.
649
00:36:13,960 --> 00:36:15,960
Salam. Hello.
Salam. You're very welcome.
650
00:36:15,960 --> 00:36:18,960
Thank you so much.
Thank you.
651
00:36:21,320 --> 00:36:24,320
Shiraz wine
did originally come from Shiraz.
652
00:36:24,320 --> 00:36:28,960
But alcohol was banned
after the 1979 revolution.
653
00:36:28,960 --> 00:36:33,960
Today in Iran, you don't get a wine
list, you get a rose water list.
654
00:36:33,960 --> 00:36:35,960
We have three main rosewaters.
655
00:36:35,960 --> 00:36:36,960
How... Yes.
656
00:36:36,960 --> 00:36:39,960
Rose water with some herb seeds,
657
00:36:39,960 --> 00:36:41,960
lemon juice with rose water,
658
00:36:41,960 --> 00:36:44,960
and another rose water that they
don't know the name of the flower.
659
00:36:44,960 --> 00:36:47,480
CHUCKLES
May I have the very first one?
660
00:36:47,480 --> 00:36:49,960
Rose water with some seeds
in it? OK.I'd love that.
661
00:36:49,960 --> 00:36:51,960
Yes, of course. Five minutes.
Thank you.
662
00:36:51,960 --> 00:36:53,960
Well, how gorgeous is this?
663
00:36:53,960 --> 00:36:55,320
Beautiful little courtyard.
664
00:36:55,320 --> 00:36:58,960
And they're keeping the watermelons
in the water of the fountain.
665
00:36:58,960 --> 00:37:00,960
GASPS
666
00:37:00,960 --> 00:37:02,960
Here you are.
Oh, look at...
667
00:37:02,960 --> 00:37:06,960
Your rose water with some seeds.
Our traditional dessert.
668
00:37:06,960 --> 00:37:08,960
I've got to try this first.
669
00:37:13,160 --> 00:37:15,160
That is exquisite.
670
00:37:15,160 --> 00:37:18,960
It tastes of roses and syrup.
671
00:37:18,960 --> 00:37:20,960
These wonderful seeds.
672
00:37:20,960 --> 00:37:22,960
Because Iran is a dry country,
673
00:37:22,960 --> 00:37:28,320
they take such a lot of care in
preparing drinks that are delicious
674
00:37:28,320 --> 00:37:31,960
so you don't miss the great
famous Shiraz wines of yesteryear.
675
00:37:33,960 --> 00:37:35,960
And that, dear viewer, is one that,
676
00:37:35,960 --> 00:37:38,960
in my opinion,
you should definitely try at home.
677
00:37:43,960 --> 00:37:45,960
Iranians adore poetry
678
00:37:45,960 --> 00:37:48,960
and often say that
Farsi is its natural language.
679
00:37:48,960 --> 00:37:50,960
In Shiraz, people flock to visit
680
00:37:50,960 --> 00:37:54,960
the tomb of their country's
most revered poet Hafez.
681
00:37:55,960 --> 00:37:57,960
Abbas?
Hi.Hi.
682
00:37:57,960 --> 00:37:59,960
I'm Joanna. Nice to see you.
How very nice to meet you.
683
00:37:59,960 --> 00:38:01,960
This is good of you.
Thank you so much.
684
00:38:01,960 --> 00:38:02,960
No problem, no problem.
685
00:38:02,960 --> 00:38:05,960
University student Abbas
is my new best friend.
686
00:38:05,960 --> 00:38:08,960
Abbas, you sound as though
you've studied in America.
687
00:38:08,960 --> 00:38:13,000
Er... actually, I didn't.
It's mostly movies.
688
00:38:13,000 --> 00:38:14,960
You've done all this from here?
Yes.
689
00:38:14,960 --> 00:38:15,960
But you're very fluent.
690
00:38:15,960 --> 00:38:17,960
You sound like Woody Allen.
691
00:38:17,960 --> 00:38:20,000
That's really kind of you.
He has a thick New York accent,
692
00:38:20,000 --> 00:38:22,960
which I don't have.
No, you don't have.
693
00:38:24,960 --> 00:38:27,960
In a centuries-old tradition
called Fal'e Hafez,
694
00:38:27,960 --> 00:38:30,960
people randomly open
a page of the great man's book
695
00:38:30,960 --> 00:38:34,960
and look for inspiration
and personal guidance in that poem.
696
00:38:36,960 --> 00:38:37,960
Look how beautiful that is.
697
00:38:39,960 --> 00:38:43,160
Salam.
Stay, stay, stay, stay, stay.
698
00:38:44,960 --> 00:38:47,480
Is this the first time that
you've come here, to the tomb?
699
00:38:49,960 --> 00:38:52,960
Did the poem that you've found today
700
00:38:52,960 --> 00:38:54,960
resolve the problem
that you came with?
701
00:39:00,960 --> 00:39:02,960
And what about you?
Is it good news for you?
702
00:39:07,960 --> 00:39:10,960
Well, it was our good fortune
to meet you here.
703
00:39:12,960 --> 00:39:15,960
Merci. Adieu.
704
00:39:15,960 --> 00:39:16,960
Salam.
705
00:39:17,960 --> 00:39:20,960
Hello. I'm Joanna.
How nice to meet you.
706
00:39:20,960 --> 00:39:24,960
Will you tell me what it is
about Hafez the poet
707
00:39:24,960 --> 00:39:27,800
that makes his work so enduring
over the centuries?
708
00:39:29,960 --> 00:39:33,960
How wonderful.
Do you have a favourite one?
709
00:39:55,960 --> 00:39:57,960
APPLAUSE
Bravo. Bravo.
710
00:39:59,960 --> 00:40:02,800
Merci, merci. That was beautiful.
711
00:40:04,480 --> 00:40:06,960
With the best memories.
Thank you.
712
00:40:06,960 --> 00:40:08,480
How lovely.
713
00:40:09,480 --> 00:40:11,640
So, here's my lovely copy of Hafez.
714
00:40:11,640 --> 00:40:13,960
Yes.How do I do the Fal'e?
How do I do it?
715
00:40:13,960 --> 00:40:16,960
You just put your nails,
and you just randomly pick a page,
716
00:40:16,960 --> 00:40:18,960
and just open it.
There. Good job.
717
00:40:20,960 --> 00:40:23,960
Oh, it's wonderful. He's such
a wonderful poet, isn't he?
718
00:40:23,960 --> 00:40:24,960
Can you read the Persian to me?
719
00:40:24,960 --> 00:40:27,960
Throw me into the ship of wine,
720
00:40:27,960 --> 00:40:29,960
oh, wine bearer,
721
00:40:29,960 --> 00:40:31,960
that...
LAUGHTER
722
00:40:31,960 --> 00:40:34,160
I've gone straight for
the alcoholic rendition.
723
00:40:34,160 --> 00:40:35,960
What's happening?
724
00:40:35,960 --> 00:40:37,960
It is said help the poor and
if, by any chance, you become poor,
725
00:40:37,960 --> 00:40:39,960
God will help you.
It will come back?
726
00:40:39,960 --> 00:40:42,960
Somebody will give it to you? Yes,
something will come back to you.
727
00:40:42,960 --> 00:40:45,160
Oh, that's very good news.
Yes, it is.
728
00:40:45,160 --> 00:40:47,960
Tell me, how many films
did you have to watch
729
00:40:47,960 --> 00:40:48,960
to get this perfect English?
730
00:40:48,960 --> 00:40:50,960
LAUGHS
Go on, tell me.
731
00:40:50,960 --> 00:40:51,960
Um... It's been 12 years.
732
00:40:51,960 --> 00:40:54,960
On average, every two days,
one movie.
733
00:40:54,960 --> 00:40:56,960
Every two days?
Every two days. Yeah.
734
00:40:56,960 --> 00:40:58,160
You've seen all of... You've seen
735
00:40:58,160 --> 00:41:00,000
the whole of American cinema,
haven't you?
736
00:41:00,000 --> 00:41:03,960
LAUGHS
The most famous ones, I suppose.
737
00:41:03,960 --> 00:41:06,960
You've been so kind, Abbas.
Thank you very much indeed.
738
00:41:06,960 --> 00:41:08,960
The privilege is all mine.
739
00:41:10,960 --> 00:41:14,960
Our final stop in Iran
lies just 60km from Shiraz.
740
00:41:17,800 --> 00:41:20,160
These are the colossal walls
of Persepolis.
741
00:41:21,800 --> 00:41:22,960
One of the mightiest cities,
742
00:41:22,960 --> 00:41:25,960
the legendary cities
of the ancient world.
743
00:41:25,960 --> 00:41:27,960
I'm seeing it for the first time.
744
00:41:27,960 --> 00:41:30,960
My heart is beating so hard.
745
00:41:30,960 --> 00:41:32,960
So this is how they would have
come up to this palace,
746
00:41:32,960 --> 00:41:34,160
wondering what
they were going to see.
747
00:41:34,160 --> 00:41:36,480
I'm wondering what I'm going to see.
748
00:41:36,480 --> 00:41:38,160
GASPS
Look at this avenue.
749
00:41:38,160 --> 00:41:40,960
Huge avenue coming across the plain.
750
00:41:40,960 --> 00:41:45,960
And it would have led you right up,
all the way up to...
751
00:41:45,960 --> 00:41:46,960
GASPS
752
00:41:48,960 --> 00:41:50,960
Oh, my gosh.
753
00:41:53,800 --> 00:41:58,960
Persepolis was founded
by Darius the Great in 518BC,
754
00:41:58,960 --> 00:42:01,960
when Iron Age Britons were
still living in wooden hill forts.
755
00:42:01,960 --> 00:42:05,960
It was designed
only for pomp and pageantry
756
00:42:05,960 --> 00:42:08,960
and became the ceremonial capital
f the Persian Empire,
757
00:42:08,960 --> 00:42:10,960
a beacon of extravagance.
758
00:42:12,960 --> 00:42:15,960
What it must have been like
to come to see this palace.
759
00:42:15,960 --> 00:42:18,480
I mean, the scale of it.
760
00:42:18,480 --> 00:42:21,960
It's... It's amazing.
761
00:42:21,960 --> 00:42:26,960
Persepolis quite soon became
the envied city in the entire world.
762
00:42:29,960 --> 00:42:30,960
"Is it not passing brave
763
00:42:30,960 --> 00:42:33,800
"to be a king and ride in triumph
through Persepolis?"
764
00:42:33,800 --> 00:42:35,960
Those lines were written
by Christopher Marlowe
765
00:42:35,960 --> 00:42:37,960
in the play Tamburlaine the Great.
766
00:42:37,960 --> 00:42:39,960
And on stage in London,
if you're in a classical play,
767
00:42:39,960 --> 00:42:41,960
and you dry, you forget your words,
you just say that
768
00:42:41,960 --> 00:42:44,960
and the audience will never know
that it's just been dropped in.
769
00:42:44,960 --> 00:42:46,960
It gives you time
to think of your next line.
770
00:42:46,960 --> 00:42:47,960
"Is it not passing brave
771
00:42:47,960 --> 00:42:51,960
"to be a king and ride in triumph
through Persepolis?"
772
00:42:53,960 --> 00:42:54,960
With the city in its prime,
773
00:42:54,960 --> 00:42:58,960
the Persian Empire ruled over
44% of the world's population.
774
00:42:58,960 --> 00:43:02,960
A greater percentage than
any other empire in history.
775
00:43:05,960 --> 00:43:07,960
So, this is a depiction on the wall
776
00:43:07,960 --> 00:43:09,960
of all the different parts
of the empire,
777
00:43:09,960 --> 00:43:11,160
the great Persian Empire,
778
00:43:11,160 --> 00:43:13,960
bringing tribute
to the king of the time.
779
00:43:13,960 --> 00:43:16,160
So, this would be a mead
with his round hat,
780
00:43:16,160 --> 00:43:19,640
this would be a Persian
with his tall hat, holding hands.
781
00:43:19,640 --> 00:43:22,960
This group comes from India.
And you can see he's wearing a sari.
782
00:43:22,960 --> 00:43:24,960
GASPS
This lot come from Samarkand.
783
00:43:24,960 --> 00:43:27,960
I'm going to Samarkand next.
784
00:43:27,960 --> 00:43:30,960
Another of the exotic
and fabulous places in the world
785
00:43:30,960 --> 00:43:31,960
which was on the Silk Road.
786
00:43:31,960 --> 00:43:34,960
This was people
coming from all over the place,
787
00:43:34,960 --> 00:43:36,960
bringing trade,
and bringing it through Iran,
788
00:43:36,960 --> 00:43:38,960
and through separate...
These are Greeks.
789
00:43:38,960 --> 00:43:42,160
And they've got honeycomb,
some folded cloth,
790
00:43:42,160 --> 00:43:43,960
cups of some sweet nectar,
791
00:43:43,960 --> 00:43:45,960
possibly retsina.
792
00:43:45,960 --> 00:43:48,960
And they're all going upstairs
and they're all bringing their gifts
793
00:43:48,960 --> 00:43:49,960
to the king of kings,
794
00:43:49,960 --> 00:43:51,640
the Shahanshah.
795
00:43:54,960 --> 00:43:56,960
But sadly,
all this celebration and pageantry
796
00:43:56,960 --> 00:43:58,960
was not to last.
797
00:43:58,960 --> 00:44:00,960
Less than 200 years later
798
00:44:00,960 --> 00:44:04,960
Alexander the Great
sacked and looted Persepolis.
799
00:44:04,960 --> 00:44:09,960
It took 20,000 mules
and 5,000 camels
800
00:44:09,960 --> 00:44:11,960
to take away all his spoils,
801
00:44:11,960 --> 00:44:14,000
leaving it more or less
in the state we see today.
802
00:44:15,960 --> 00:44:17,960
Oh, gosh.
803
00:44:17,960 --> 00:44:19,960
I wish I could see what it was like.
804
00:44:21,800 --> 00:44:22,960
Well, I can.
805
00:44:29,960 --> 00:44:32,800
Oh, my heavens.
806
00:44:33,960 --> 00:44:35,960
Massive black pillars.
807
00:44:37,000 --> 00:44:39,960
Great beautiful patterned ceiling.
808
00:44:40,960 --> 00:44:43,960
With horses' heads up here.
809
00:44:43,960 --> 00:44:47,960
Great stark decorations,
but so effective.
810
00:44:48,960 --> 00:44:51,960
Oh. And there's the gateway
I walked through.
811
00:44:53,960 --> 00:44:55,960
Oh, this is marvellous.
812
00:44:57,320 --> 00:45:00,320
Oh, I could stand here all day
in the midday sun...
813
00:45:01,960 --> 00:45:03,960
..just staring at this glory.
814
00:45:09,320 --> 00:45:11,960
The Iranian State has its problems
815
00:45:11,960 --> 00:45:14,960
and it's not an obvious tourist
destination for us in the West.
816
00:45:16,960 --> 00:45:18,960
And yet, the ordinary
and extraordinary people I've met
817
00:45:18,960 --> 00:45:21,960
have been welcoming,
warm, and generous.
818
00:45:21,960 --> 00:45:26,000
I met an Iranian man here
just today with his family.
819
00:45:26,000 --> 00:45:28,960
And they sent welcoming signs to me
820
00:45:28,960 --> 00:45:32,000
and he just said,
"Governments, pfft."
821
00:45:32,000 --> 00:45:33,960
That's exactly what I feel.
822
00:45:33,960 --> 00:45:36,960
And now for lust of knowing
what should not be known,
823
00:45:36,960 --> 00:45:41,960
I take the Golden Road to Samarkand.
824
00:45:45,640 --> 00:45:46,960
Next time, in Uzbekistan...
825
00:45:46,960 --> 00:45:49,640
Look at this dress.
826
00:45:49,640 --> 00:45:50,960
Isn't it fabulous?
827
00:45:50,960 --> 00:45:52,960
..I'm off to a wedding.
828
00:45:52,960 --> 00:45:54,960
Do you know,
it doesn't matter what you put on,
829
00:45:54,960 --> 00:45:56,960
you look dowdy
compared with everybody here.
830
00:45:58,640 --> 00:46:01,960
In Kyrgyzstan, I experience
the modern with K-Pop...
831
00:46:03,960 --> 00:46:05,960
..and the ancient art
of eagle hunting.
832
00:46:08,960 --> 00:46:12,000
Wow, what a view!
833
00:46:34,960 --> 00:46:37,000
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