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Ту смо, душо.
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Ја сам на крајњем западу Узбекистана
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у централној Азији и око мене за 400 миља
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је пустиња у свим правцима.
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Ова сцена стварно
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је непромењен 2000 година,
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велики камила, бродови пустиње.
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ОНА кашаљ Узимају ми кроз ...
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ОНА ПАНТАЛОНЕ чудне таквим местима.
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Они могу да носе незамисливо тешке терете
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и било је заиста захваљујући овим момцима
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да је Пут свиле био у стању да ради уопште.
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Древна мрежа трговачких путева водио између Европе и Кине.
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00:00:51,960 --> 00:00:53,960
До сада на својим путовањима дуж Пута свиле,
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Видео сам блиставом сјају Венеције.
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Чак и за венецијанском шешир, то је чудно.
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Модерни блиставе куле Азербејџана.
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То је магија.
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Анд тхе Магиц палате и баште Ирана.
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Апсолутно мирно.
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На овом мечу мог путовања.
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Свети дим.
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I'm going to visit some of the most
stunning and historic
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Silk Road cities.
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I mean look at it, it's awesome!
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There'll be a stimulating sauna.
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And I shall witness the amazing
and ancient art of eagle hunting.
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Follow me on my Silk Road adventure.
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Come on, lovely ones.
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Uzbekistan is a double
land locked country
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and boasts some of the Silk Road's
most important cities.
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I'm in the west of the country
in the Kyzylkum desert.
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We're approaching Ayaz-Kala
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and a fortress
that's been standing there since...
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300 years BC.
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It was part of a chain of
fortresses, there were 50 of them,
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built along here.
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They were called
the golden ring of Khwarazm.
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These ancient fortresses were built
to protect a valley
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on the Silk Road
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that was vulnerable
to marauding nomads
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who'd break out of the desert
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and find rich pickings
on the trade route.
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SHE GASPS
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Look at that!
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Well!
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That must be
a little small fortress,
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maybe that's the ruins of a palace
beside it down there.
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Look, you can just see forever!
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What a brilliant place
to position your fort.
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Phew!
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You'd be able to see a caravan trail
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coming miles away
and you'd go, these are friends.
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Don't fight these people.
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They're bringing in gorgeous things,
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they're bringing in spices and silk
and flavours and coconut.
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WHISPERS: Gee whiz.
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So the Silk Road traders came here
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but their real goal,
their real destiny
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00:03:01,640 --> 00:03:03,960
was over the horizon to the south,
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the great desert city of Khiva.
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These are the legendary fortress
walls of Khiva.
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Gosh, you see things in photographs
and then when you see them
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in real life,
it looks like a sand castle.
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Khiva offered water, a market
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and a sanctuary from the desert.
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And it has over 15 centuries
of Silk Road history.
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Oh, look at this baby!
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Look at you, sweetheart.
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Hello, darling.
SHE LAUGHS
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INSTRUMENT PLAYS
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The town became famous
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for some extraordinary headgear,
a must
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for any Silk Road trader
taking on the Kyzyl-Kum desert.
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This is gorgeous.
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They're sort of hat dancing.
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Those hats are called chugirma.
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They seem to be involved
in this dance
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which is all to do with power
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and status. Having these hats
was terribly important.
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Standing here looking rather
marvellous with a...
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balding head
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is Shokir, he's the...
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the owner of this, he's the kind of
keeper of this chugirma.
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Going back 500 years,
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your family will have made
these hats
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for caravanserai,
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for the travellers
coming through Khiva.
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It looks very hot.
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Is it hot in the summer?
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Spasiba, Shokir.
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Thank you so much.
That was an honour to talk to you.
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Hey!
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Whoo! Bravo!
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Trade on the Silk Road was not just
in fabric and spices -
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human slaves were a major commodity.
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Hundreds of thousands were bought
and sold
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and as late as the 19th century,
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Khiva had an active slave market.
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Gosh, how ghastly
it must have been.
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Russian boys were the prime
target for the slavers
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because they sold
for a lot of money.
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They were all kept and sold
and traded here
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in the middle of Khiva.
Heart-breaking.
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A man called Captain James Abbott,
who was a British officer,
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he wrote
"Alas, he who once enters Khiva
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"abandons all hope
as he who enters hell."
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"His prison house is girdled with...
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00:06:06,960 --> 00:06:10,960
"trackless deserts
whose sole inhabitants
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"are the sellers of human flesh."
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Looks gorgeous now, though.
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00:06:25,320 --> 00:06:27,960
Leaving Khiva and the desert behind,
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we're travelling 500 miles
to the Uzbek capital in the east
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and Central Asia's biggest city.
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Tashkent's history goes back
to the second century BC
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when it was a tiny oasis town.
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But now it's a modern city
with nearly
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two and a half million inhabitants.
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The very words Tashkent sort of
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make you think, oh, Tashkent
I wonder what it's like.
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Will it be very strange
and Central Asian and difficult?
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No, look at it, it's just...
It's like Paris, actually.
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There's a legend
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that this is exactly halfway
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between China
where all the silk was coming from
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and beginning its journey
towards the west
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and Europe, its destination.
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This was exactly the halfway mark.
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It's hard to believe it now
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but around 50 years ago
this beautiful city
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was laid waste
by a natural disaster.
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On April the 26th in 1966,
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Tashkent was flattened
by a massive earthquake,
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hundreds of thousands of people
lost their homes but luckily,
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only a handful were killed.
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At the time the Soviet Union
ruled Uzbekistan
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and it was a catalyst
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for them to spend billions
on redesigning Tashkent
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as a model Soviet city
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and not just above ground.
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The Tashkent metro carries
just short of 60 million passengers
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a year.
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And for around 12 pence,
you can go anywhere
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on the 36 kilometre network.
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Why this system is really
special is that the 29 stations
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each have their own unique
architectural theme.
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Now I'm changing trains
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and I've got to find a station
called Alisher Navoi.
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Excuse me, gdye Alisher Navoi?
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Uh-huh.
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Spasiba.
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There's a whole station
dedicated to cotton,
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one of the country's
biggest exports.
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Alisher Navoi.
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There are stations that celebrate
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the country's great poets.
Bread, chillies
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also big news here.
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Isn't this beautiful?
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But I'm looking for one
that's altogether more cosmic.
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These great cosmonauts.
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Is that Valentina Tereshkova?
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She was an extraordinary woman.
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She was the first woman in space,
an ordinary factory worker
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and she circuited the globe
48 times.
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What a fabulous station!
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It's very cool and dark,
like outer space.
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Gagarin.
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Here he is.
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First man in space.
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Wow!
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And here in Russian writing,
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cos mon auta,
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cosmonauts, it's not...
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goes on a bit at the end,
cosmonautsa.
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SHE GASPS
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Look at these glass
gorgeous pillars.
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Isn't it nice to think
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that after a ghastly catastrophe,
the great earthquake
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of 1966,
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that something so fine
should be built.
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Hello, baby.
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Sweet! I think Uzbekistan
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has some of the sweetest children
in the world.
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I could become
a child kidnapper here.
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Sorry I didn't,
I didn't mean to say that
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and I'm obviously
not going to do it.
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I'm going to an Uzbek wedding
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00:10:00,960 --> 00:10:03,960
but I haven't been invited
by the bride and groom.
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00:10:06,480 --> 00:10:09,480
I'm travelling with a pop band,
fantastic. This is the band.
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This is Rayhon, fabulous.
191
00:10:13,800 --> 00:10:15,960
Can you get in first?
The boys get in first.
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00:10:17,960 --> 00:10:19,960
Weddings are absolutely huge here
in Uzbekistan.
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They go on for four days and
they're massive, massively expensive
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00:10:22,960 --> 00:10:26,960
and some of them are so grand
that they manage to get pop stars
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00:10:26,960 --> 00:10:29,960
like Rayhon to sing there.
It's unbelievable.
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00:10:29,960 --> 00:10:31,960
I'm getting in first, I feel rude.
Look at this dress!
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00:10:31,960 --> 00:10:34,960
We're going off
to do a wedding gig tonight,
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00:10:34,960 --> 00:10:36,960
at least we... I'm just going along
with her.
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00:10:38,640 --> 00:10:39,960
SHE SINGS IN UZBEK
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00:10:42,320 --> 00:10:45,320
Rayhon is one of Uzbekistan's
biggest pop stars,
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00:10:45,320 --> 00:10:48,960
with nearly eight million YouTube
streams of her latest single.
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00:10:51,960 --> 00:10:53,960
Here in Uzbekistan,
it's perfectly normal
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to hire a big star to perform
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00:10:55,160 --> 00:10:57,960
at your wedding reception.
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00:10:57,960 --> 00:10:59,800
Have you sometimes sung
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00:10:59,800 --> 00:11:01,960
for two weddings in the same night?
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00:11:01,960 --> 00:11:04,480
Yes, of course.
Yes?
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00:11:04,480 --> 00:11:07,960
Two, maybe three...No. ..or four.
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00:11:07,960 --> 00:11:09,960
JOANNA GASPS
My gosh.
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00:11:09,960 --> 00:11:14,960
And do you ever get nervous
before you go on stage?
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00:11:14,960 --> 00:11:18,000
Every time.Do you?
THEY LAUGH
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00:11:18,000 --> 00:11:23,320
Uzbeks spend ten times the amount
we do in the UK on weddings.
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00:11:23,320 --> 00:11:26,960
Culturally, it's supposed
to guarantee a wealthy future.
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00:11:26,960 --> 00:11:27,960
Look at this!
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00:11:27,960 --> 00:11:31,640
Isn't it fabulous?
216
00:11:31,640 --> 00:11:32,960
The country's president
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00:11:32,960 --> 00:11:36,800
has spoken out against what he calls
shameless spending
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00:11:36,800 --> 00:11:37,960
that couples can't afford.
219
00:11:37,960 --> 00:11:40,960
And he's even tried
to implement a cap.
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00:11:40,960 --> 00:11:42,960
Look, look.
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00:11:42,960 --> 00:11:45,960
They've been filmed on a jib
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00:11:45,960 --> 00:11:48,640
and everybody dressed up
to the nines.
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00:11:48,640 --> 00:11:50,800
Great flower arrangements
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00:11:50,800 --> 00:11:52,960
on the table, I mean weddings
do this all the time
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00:11:52,960 --> 00:11:55,960
but it's so lovely to see it
in a different country.
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00:11:55,960 --> 00:11:57,960
Do you know, it doesn't matter
what you put on,
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00:11:57,960 --> 00:12:01,480
you look dowdy compared
with everybody here!
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00:12:01,480 --> 00:12:04,960
Just dowdy.
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00:12:04,960 --> 00:12:06,960
MUSIC PLAYS
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00:12:15,960 --> 00:12:19,960
I think the dancers
will be coming out.
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00:12:19,960 --> 00:12:22,960
And when they come out,
Rayhon is on.
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00:12:26,960 --> 00:12:29,960
ANNOUNCER SPEAKS IN UZBEK,
SHE CLAPS
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00:12:32,160 --> 00:12:33,960
SHE SINGS IN UZBEK
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00:12:39,960 --> 00:12:41,960
The happy couple, to be honest,
look slightly terrified.
235
00:12:41,960 --> 00:12:43,960
It's a tradition here
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00:12:43,960 --> 00:12:46,960
that they ignore each other
until after the ceremony.
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00:12:46,960 --> 00:12:47,960
That or they're wondering
238
00:12:47,960 --> 00:12:49,960
how on earth they'll ever pay
for this.
239
00:12:59,960 --> 00:13:02,960
I've often dreamt of taking
the Golden Road to Samarkand
240
00:13:02,960 --> 00:13:05,960
but I never imagined
it would be on this sleek,
241
00:13:05,960 --> 00:13:08,960
new train that's whizzing
through Uzbekistan
242
00:13:08,960 --> 00:13:11,960
at speeds of up to
160 miles an hour.
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00:13:12,960 --> 00:13:14,960
Bit wobbly but come along.
244
00:13:14,960 --> 00:13:16,960
Hello, ladies. Hello.
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00:13:16,960 --> 00:13:19,960
How lovely to see you. Hello.
246
00:13:19,960 --> 00:13:21,800
THEY LAUGH
247
00:13:21,800 --> 00:13:22,960
WOMAN SPEAKS UZBEK
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00:13:22,960 --> 00:13:25,960
I know. We're on our way through
to the buffet
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00:13:25,960 --> 00:13:27,160
but if we'd known you were here,
250
00:13:27,160 --> 00:13:29,320
we'd have made the entire film
about you.
251
00:13:29,320 --> 00:13:31,000
THEY LAUGH
252
00:13:32,960 --> 00:13:34,960
That was a very merry group
of little ladies.
253
00:13:34,960 --> 00:13:36,960
Look how beautiful this is.
254
00:13:36,960 --> 00:13:37,960
SHE GASPS
255
00:13:37,960 --> 00:13:39,960
How lovely, hello.
256
00:13:39,960 --> 00:13:42,960
This is, this is a beautiful bar.
257
00:13:42,960 --> 00:13:45,640
My gosh, it's stacked up with drinks
as well. Look at it.
258
00:13:45,640 --> 00:13:47,480
Could I have a cappuccino?
Yes, cappuccino.
259
00:13:47,480 --> 00:13:49,640
Thank you.
260
00:13:49,640 --> 00:13:51,800
Here's a travelling tip.
261
00:13:51,800 --> 00:13:52,960
Put things in bags.
262
00:13:52,960 --> 00:13:54,960
I know this sounds like things
old ladies do
263
00:13:54,960 --> 00:13:56,960
and quite obviously I'm an old lady
264
00:13:56,960 --> 00:13:58,320
but if you can when you're packing,
265
00:13:58,320 --> 00:14:00,960
put things in a bag
and you know what it's going to be.
266
00:14:00,960 --> 00:14:02,960
So in here, I know
it's going to be in here.
267
00:14:02,960 --> 00:14:05,640
I'll have my passport in there
and I know that, my phone
268
00:14:05,640 --> 00:14:07,000
and in here...
269
00:14:07,000 --> 00:14:08,960
I've got my money.
270
00:14:08,960 --> 00:14:12,480
It looks like millions,
sort of 5,000...
271
00:14:12,480 --> 00:14:14,960
is 50 pence.
272
00:14:14,960 --> 00:14:16,480
Everything is very cheap here.
273
00:14:23,960 --> 00:14:26,160
Oh, my lord.
274
00:14:29,160 --> 00:14:30,960
You see when you...
275
00:14:30,960 --> 00:14:34,320
When you travel, when you take
the Golden Road to Samarkand
276
00:14:34,320 --> 00:14:38,960
you literally don't know
what you're going to get.
277
00:14:50,960 --> 00:14:53,960
No name
evokes images of the Silk Road
278
00:14:53,960 --> 00:14:55,960
like the city of Samarkand.
279
00:14:57,640 --> 00:14:58,960
It was once the beating heart
280
00:14:58,960 --> 00:15:01,160
of a powerful empire
that stretched
281
00:15:01,160 --> 00:15:03,800
from the Mediterranean in the west
282
00:15:03,800 --> 00:15:04,960
to the borders of China in the east.
283
00:15:06,960 --> 00:15:09,800
I think I love these colours
so much.
284
00:15:09,800 --> 00:15:11,960
The combination of the dark blue,
285
00:15:11,960 --> 00:15:14,960
turquoise on a sort of
buff background
286
00:15:14,960 --> 00:15:15,960
with white.
287
00:15:15,960 --> 00:15:17,960
It looks sensational
288
00:15:17,960 --> 00:15:19,960
and the amount of different patterns
289
00:15:19,960 --> 00:15:20,960
they manage to incorporate
290
00:15:20,960 --> 00:15:22,320
into every building.
291
00:15:22,320 --> 00:15:25,960
Practically no panel is the same
as the one above it.
292
00:15:25,960 --> 00:15:28,960
Even in medieval Europe,
Samarkand was renowned.
293
00:15:28,960 --> 00:15:32,800
Prompting poets, playwrights
and travellers
294
00:15:32,800 --> 00:15:34,960
to extol the city few had ever seen.
295
00:15:36,960 --> 00:15:40,960
Today, Uzbekistan cherishes
this architectural masterpiece
296
00:15:40,960 --> 00:15:44,960
and a programme of restoration is
constantly repairing and restoring.
297
00:15:46,960 --> 00:15:49,960
Many people do take the Golden Road
to Samarkand
298
00:15:49,960 --> 00:15:52,640
from near and afar
299
00:15:52,640 --> 00:15:55,320
to gaze at its scale and majesty.
300
00:16:01,320 --> 00:16:04,000
You look so beautiful, so beautiful.
301
00:16:04,000 --> 00:16:09,160
English. English, English.English.
302
00:16:09,160 --> 00:16:10,960
How old are you?
303
00:16:10,960 --> 00:16:14,960
How old am I?
Very, very old, darling.
304
00:16:14,960 --> 00:16:16,960
Are you from Samarkand?
No.
305
00:16:16,960 --> 00:16:19,960
Where? Fergana.
Fergana? Valley.
306
00:16:19,960 --> 00:16:20,960
Beautiful Fergana.
307
00:16:20,960 --> 00:16:23,960
Oh. Bless you, honeys.
308
00:16:23,960 --> 00:16:25,960
So lovely to meet you.
309
00:16:25,960 --> 00:16:28,960
I love this Frida Kahlo mono-brow
310
00:16:28,960 --> 00:16:30,960
which is Fergana valley, I think,
311
00:16:30,960 --> 00:16:33,960
which is this decoration
across there.
312
00:16:33,960 --> 00:16:34,960
Very sweet.
313
00:16:36,960 --> 00:16:38,960
This jewel of Islamic architecture
314
00:16:38,960 --> 00:16:41,960
is the ambition
of one very powerful man.
315
00:16:41,960 --> 00:16:44,960
Amir Timur is known in the west
316
00:16:44,960 --> 00:16:45,960
as Tamerlane,
317
00:16:45,960 --> 00:16:49,160
whose 14th century
imperial conquests
318
00:16:49,160 --> 00:16:50,960
killed 17 million people
319
00:16:50,960 --> 00:16:54,160
but he'd spare the lives
of talented artists and architects
320
00:16:54,160 --> 00:16:56,960
from lands he conquered
and put them to work
321
00:16:56,960 --> 00:16:59,960
building his magnificent capital.
322
00:16:59,960 --> 00:17:01,960
Oh, look at that!
323
00:17:01,960 --> 00:17:03,000
It's a delicacy.
324
00:17:04,960 --> 00:17:07,960
Timur died
at the age of 69
325
00:17:07,960 --> 00:17:10,960
on his way to wage war
against the Chinese
326
00:17:10,960 --> 00:17:12,960
whilst attempting to expand
an empire
327
00:17:12,960 --> 00:17:15,960
within which trade
and the Silk Road flourished.
328
00:17:20,960 --> 00:17:23,960
His final resting place
is the magnificent Gur-e-Amir
329
00:17:23,960 --> 00:17:25,960
where thousands now flock
330
00:17:25,960 --> 00:17:28,000
to pay their respects to Timur,
331
00:17:28,000 --> 00:17:30,960
the conqueror of worlds.
332
00:17:36,960 --> 00:17:40,960
This must be the tomb of Amir Timur.
333
00:17:40,960 --> 00:17:42,960
There's a legend that it,
there's a curse on it.
334
00:17:42,960 --> 00:17:44,960
You mustn't tamper with it
and 1941,
335
00:17:44,960 --> 00:17:47,960
the Russians who, of course,
were running Uzbekistan at the time
336
00:17:47,960 --> 00:17:50,480
decided for scientific purposes
337
00:17:50,480 --> 00:17:53,960
to open the tomb and exhume
his body, which they did.
338
00:17:53,960 --> 00:17:55,960
Three days later,
339
00:17:55,960 --> 00:17:57,160
Hitler invaded Russia
340
00:17:57,160 --> 00:18:00,800
so it was seen as a terrible curse,
341
00:18:00,800 --> 00:18:02,800
opening the tomb.
The next year, he was buried
342
00:18:02,800 --> 00:18:04,960
with full Islamic honours
and now he's lying to rest
343
00:18:04,960 --> 00:18:08,960
in this phenomenal,
344
00:18:08,960 --> 00:18:12,960
extraordinary, calm, quiet,
345
00:18:12,960 --> 00:18:14,960
beautiful place.
346
00:18:18,960 --> 00:18:22,160
Rhubarb, gunpowder
and the mechanical clock
347
00:18:22,160 --> 00:18:24,160
all travel down the Silk Road
348
00:18:24,160 --> 00:18:29,960
but Samarkand is renowned for
one of life's daily basics.
349
00:18:29,960 --> 00:18:31,000
Bread, bread, bread, bread, OK.
350
00:18:32,640 --> 00:18:33,960
Hello, ladies.
351
00:18:33,960 --> 00:18:36,000
SHE GASPS
Oh, look! Gosh, she's got...
352
00:18:36,000 --> 00:18:37,960
Look how shiny!
353
00:18:37,960 --> 00:18:39,000
I want to see them.
354
00:18:39,000 --> 00:18:40,960
Gosh, they look so delicious.
355
00:18:40,960 --> 00:18:43,960
Here in Samarkand, the bread
has almost magical properties.
356
00:18:43,960 --> 00:18:45,960
It's said to be able
357
00:18:45,960 --> 00:18:47,960
to stay fresh for absolutely ages.
358
00:18:47,960 --> 00:18:50,160
Thank you. Thank you so much,
thank you.
359
00:18:50,160 --> 00:18:52,960
Not only that,
it's apparently impossible
360
00:18:52,960 --> 00:18:55,000
to recreate it anywhere else.
361
00:18:55,000 --> 00:18:57,960
I want to see how it's made.
362
00:18:57,960 --> 00:19:01,960
You made this?
Yes, yes, yes.Near here?
363
00:19:01,960 --> 00:19:04,800
People debate whether it's the air,
364
00:19:04,800 --> 00:19:05,960
the altitude or the water.
365
00:19:05,960 --> 00:19:07,160
Hello?
366
00:19:09,800 --> 00:19:12,160
But I managed to track down some
bakers who have been making it here
367
00:19:12,160 --> 00:19:14,960
in Samarkand for generations.
368
00:19:19,960 --> 00:19:20,960
Sesame seed?
369
00:19:20,960 --> 00:19:22,480
Why?
370
00:19:22,480 --> 00:19:24,960
Sesame.Sesame.
371
00:19:31,960 --> 00:19:33,480
This is hot, put it down here.
372
00:19:34,960 --> 00:19:36,960
Look at these little hands
but they're cool
373
00:19:36,960 --> 00:19:38,960
but she's holding it
and this is, I tell you
374
00:19:38,960 --> 00:19:40,960
so hot.
It's like a burning, burning
375
00:19:40,960 --> 00:19:42,960
hot water pipe,
it's so burning hot.
376
00:19:42,960 --> 00:19:45,320
How long does this last?
377
00:20:03,960 --> 00:20:04,960
That's so lovely.
378
00:20:04,960 --> 00:20:07,960
Smells like paradise. It's cooling
off enough for me to hold it
379
00:20:07,960 --> 00:20:09,960
and show it to you very quickly
and then put it down
380
00:20:09,960 --> 00:20:10,960
cos it's unbelievably hot.
381
00:20:10,960 --> 00:20:12,960
THEY LAUGH
It's so hot.
382
00:20:15,960 --> 00:20:17,960
I just want to see this fire
383
00:20:17,960 --> 00:20:19,960
being burnt up like this.
The smell here
384
00:20:19,960 --> 00:20:22,960
when they're setting up
for the new baking.
385
00:20:23,960 --> 00:20:25,960
I know I'm...
386
00:20:25,960 --> 00:20:27,480
THEY LAUGH
387
00:20:27,480 --> 00:20:29,960
OK, I can sense that
I'm just in the way here.
388
00:20:29,960 --> 00:20:31,960
But look at that.
389
00:20:33,960 --> 00:20:37,960
I can't tell you how good it is,
it's very dense.
390
00:20:37,960 --> 00:20:39,480
Please come through.
391
00:20:39,480 --> 00:20:42,960
It's very thick, dense so it's not
light and furry and airy.
392
00:20:42,960 --> 00:20:45,960
Erm...
393
00:20:45,960 --> 00:20:47,800
INDISTINCT
394
00:20:58,960 --> 00:21:00,960
Samarkand is known
395
00:21:00,960 --> 00:21:04,000
as the glittering capital
of Timur's medieval empire
396
00:21:04,000 --> 00:21:06,160
but I've become intrigued
by a mysterious people
397
00:21:06,160 --> 00:21:07,960
who were fundamental
to the Silk Road,
398
00:21:07,960 --> 00:21:11,960
centuries before Timur
set foot here.
399
00:21:13,960 --> 00:21:16,960
The Sogdians and the great city
that they built
400
00:21:16,960 --> 00:21:18,960
have all but vanished
from the earth.
401
00:21:18,960 --> 00:21:20,960
But in the 1970s,
402
00:21:20,960 --> 00:21:24,640
new road works uncovered
a glimpse into their glorious past.
403
00:21:24,640 --> 00:21:25,960
Come with me.
404
00:21:27,960 --> 00:21:29,960
The Sogdians...
405
00:21:29,960 --> 00:21:32,960
These are my new heroes
and I'm going to tell you why.
406
00:21:34,960 --> 00:21:38,000
Look at this. 7th century.
407
00:21:40,960 --> 00:21:43,960
It's a mural depicting
what the Sogdians did.
408
00:21:43,960 --> 00:21:45,000
They were traders.
409
00:21:45,000 --> 00:21:46,960
They were the most
extraordinary people.
410
00:21:46,960 --> 00:21:49,960
They came from Persia
and they settled in this area,
411
00:21:49,960 --> 00:21:52,960
made Samarkand their capital
412
00:21:52,960 --> 00:21:55,960
and they were really the enablers
of the Silk Road.
413
00:21:55,960 --> 00:21:57,960
They were the brokers of it,
414
00:21:57,960 --> 00:22:00,960
they traded not only in goods
415
00:22:00,960 --> 00:22:02,480
but they enabled religions
to flow through
416
00:22:02,480 --> 00:22:04,960
from the east to the west.
Everything came through
417
00:22:04,960 --> 00:22:08,000
the Sogdians who were utterly,
utterly brilliant.
418
00:22:09,960 --> 00:22:12,960
This fascinating fresco shows people
from Korea,
419
00:22:12,960 --> 00:22:14,960
India, China and Tibet
420
00:22:14,960 --> 00:22:17,000
all coming to pay their respects
421
00:22:17,000 --> 00:22:18,640
to the Sogdian king.
422
00:22:18,640 --> 00:22:19,960
Here...
423
00:22:19,960 --> 00:22:22,640
in the middle are the Chinese,
424
00:22:22,640 --> 00:22:25,800
they've come from China
bringing cocoons of silk.
425
00:22:25,800 --> 00:22:29,960
The Sogdian empire
were so, so clever.
426
00:22:29,960 --> 00:22:32,960
The Chinese were quite suspicious
of them, they said
427
00:22:32,960 --> 00:22:34,960
when a Sogdian boy
is born
428
00:22:34,960 --> 00:22:39,960
they put honey in his mouth and
glue on the palm of his baby hand
429
00:22:39,960 --> 00:22:41,960
so that when he speaks,
he speaks sweetly
430
00:22:41,960 --> 00:22:45,320
and when he sees money,
it sticks to his hand.
431
00:22:45,320 --> 00:22:49,960
So these are all the glories
of Sogdiana in the old days,
432
00:22:49,960 --> 00:22:51,640
the most important
433
00:22:51,640 --> 00:22:52,960
and now almost overlooked
empire.
434
00:22:56,960 --> 00:22:59,640
Some extraordinary physical remains
have also been discovered.
435
00:23:00,960 --> 00:23:03,960
Some Sogdians practised cranial
deformation
436
00:23:03,960 --> 00:23:07,960
and it produced
a distinctive elongated skull.
437
00:23:16,960 --> 00:23:19,000
In what method? Did they bind them?
438
00:23:28,960 --> 00:23:30,960
Can we touch it?
439
00:23:32,960 --> 00:23:34,800
Oh, yes, I will.
440
00:23:34,800 --> 00:23:37,960
So how old is this?
441
00:23:40,640 --> 00:23:41,960
Wow.
442
00:23:49,960 --> 00:23:50,960
If you look at that,
443
00:23:50,960 --> 00:23:52,960
it must have been extraordinary
444
00:23:52,960 --> 00:23:54,960
to see a Sogdian coming to you
445
00:23:54,960 --> 00:23:56,960
because they not only were
446
00:23:56,960 --> 00:24:00,960
amazingly clever and brilliant
and different and important.
447
00:24:00,960 --> 00:24:04,960
Looked different,
they looked like aliens.
448
00:24:04,960 --> 00:24:08,960
It's beautiful, I wonder what
her name was, little person. Sweet.
449
00:24:08,960 --> 00:24:10,320
Sweet little one.
450
00:24:13,960 --> 00:24:16,960
Samarkand has indeed been golden
451
00:24:16,960 --> 00:24:18,960
but it's time to leave Uzbekistan
452
00:24:18,960 --> 00:24:23,960
and venture east to surprising
and beautiful Kyrgyzstan.
453
00:24:33,320 --> 00:24:34,960
We've left Uzbekistan
454
00:24:34,960 --> 00:24:36,960
and are travelling
to its mountainous
455
00:24:36,960 --> 00:24:38,160
and rugged neighbour, Kyrgyzstan.
456
00:24:39,960 --> 00:24:41,960
Nestled among
the Tian Shan Mountains
457
00:24:41,960 --> 00:24:45,480
is its capital city, Bishkek.
458
00:24:47,960 --> 00:24:51,960
I mean look at it, it's awesome.
And the flag
459
00:24:51,960 --> 00:24:53,960
with the symbol of the yurt on it.
460
00:24:53,960 --> 00:24:57,640
It is so beautiful
with air like champagne.
461
00:24:59,960 --> 00:25:01,960
People first settled here
462
00:25:01,960 --> 00:25:04,960
in the 6th century to establish
a Sogdian trading post.
463
00:25:04,960 --> 00:25:06,960
Like all the central Asian
countries,
464
00:25:06,960 --> 00:25:10,960
Kyrgyzstan was part of the
Soviet Union until its independence
465
00:25:10,960 --> 00:25:12,800
in 1991,
466
00:25:12,800 --> 00:25:14,960
which may explain
this goose stepping.
467
00:25:14,960 --> 00:25:17,480
It was first started
by the Prussian Army
468
00:25:17,480 --> 00:25:21,960
in the mid 18th century
before spreading to imperial Russia.
469
00:25:21,960 --> 00:25:24,960
Changing the guard happens the world
over but it's always fascinating
470
00:25:24,960 --> 00:25:27,960
to see how it's done
in another country.
471
00:25:27,960 --> 00:25:30,960
I should just say that
the colour of the uniforms here
472
00:25:30,960 --> 00:25:32,960
is stunning,
a sort of very dark
473
00:25:32,960 --> 00:25:35,320
teal, I would say.
474
00:25:35,320 --> 00:25:37,960
Uniforms,
that always works actually.
475
00:25:40,960 --> 00:25:44,960
This is a mainly Muslim country,
but its communist legacy
476
00:25:44,960 --> 00:25:47,160
gives it a much less strict
Islamic feel
477
00:25:47,160 --> 00:25:49,320
than other countries I've visited.
478
00:25:50,960 --> 00:25:53,160
The Kyrgyz people have their origins
479
00:25:53,160 --> 00:25:56,320
in the western parts
of modern-day Mongolia.
480
00:25:56,320 --> 00:25:58,960
And the word Kyrgyz
means a collection
481
00:25:58,960 --> 00:26:01,960
of 40 tribes
and the 40 rays of sun
482
00:26:01,960 --> 00:26:05,960
on the national flag
refer to these ancient clans.
483
00:26:05,960 --> 00:26:08,640
Although beautiful Bishkek,
capital of Kyrgyzstan,
484
00:26:08,640 --> 00:26:10,960
is now a city of over a million
and a quarter people,
485
00:26:10,960 --> 00:26:13,960
in the old days, when it was part
of the Sogdian empire,
486
00:26:13,960 --> 00:26:17,800
it was just a simple trading post
on the important Silk Road
487
00:26:17,800 --> 00:26:20,960
travelling from China all the way
across to the east and...
488
00:26:20,960 --> 00:26:22,960
MUSIC PLAYS
489
00:26:22,960 --> 00:26:26,960
And... And whilst it was very,
very green,
490
00:26:26,960 --> 00:26:28,960
very, very green city.
Holy smoke.
491
00:26:33,960 --> 00:26:36,000
And under the Soviet Union,
492
00:26:36,000 --> 00:26:39,960
I think a lot of the trees
have disappeared.
493
00:26:51,320 --> 00:26:54,000
The cool kids of Bishkek
494
00:26:54,000 --> 00:26:56,960
are all into K-Pop,
Korean pop music.
495
00:27:07,960 --> 00:27:10,320
You gave me quite a shock.
I was trying to do a serious piece
496
00:27:10,320 --> 00:27:12,320
about Bishkek and suddenly...
497
00:27:13,960 --> 00:27:15,960
THEY LAUGH
498
00:27:15,960 --> 00:27:18,480
You look so cool, look at this,
look at this.
499
00:27:18,480 --> 00:27:20,960
Is this cool in Kyrgyzstan? Yeah?
500
00:27:20,960 --> 00:27:22,320
Absolutely.
501
00:27:31,960 --> 00:27:34,960
How do you do that?
Make up and clothes?
502
00:27:34,960 --> 00:27:36,320
Yeah.
503
00:27:36,320 --> 00:27:38,960
This is K-Pop.
504
00:27:38,960 --> 00:27:40,640
You look really good.
505
00:27:42,000 --> 00:27:44,480
Seeing people enjoying
their freedom,
506
00:27:44,480 --> 00:27:45,960
it's easy to forget
the dramatic events
507
00:27:45,960 --> 00:27:49,960
that took place here in Bishkek
in the spring of 2010.
508
00:27:49,960 --> 00:27:52,960
GUNSHOTS,
SCREAMING
509
00:27:52,960 --> 00:27:54,960
Political tension erupted
510
00:27:54,960 --> 00:27:56,960
when the people took to the streets
in protest
511
00:27:56,960 --> 00:27:58,960
against President Bakiyev's
corruption
512
00:27:58,960 --> 00:28:01,960
and the crippling hikes in
fuel costs.
513
00:28:03,160 --> 00:28:05,800
A state of emergency
was declared
514
00:28:05,800 --> 00:28:08,960
and around 4,000 protestors moved
towards Ala-Too Square
515
00:28:08,960 --> 00:28:12,960
and surrounded the White House,
the office of the President.
516
00:28:12,960 --> 00:28:15,160
And the Government fired
on the crowd,
517
00:28:15,160 --> 00:28:17,960
80 people were killed
in the return fire.
518
00:28:17,960 --> 00:28:20,960
You can see there's still some
pock marks up there,
519
00:28:20,960 --> 00:28:22,960
they had Chechen mercenaries
up on the roof,
520
00:28:22,960 --> 00:28:23,960
sharp shooters.
521
00:28:23,960 --> 00:28:26,960
Absolutely horrifying,
people lying here in pools of blood.
522
00:28:26,960 --> 00:28:29,960
Cities have a way of rebuilding
themselves sometimes,
523
00:28:29,960 --> 00:28:31,800
this one has.
524
00:28:34,800 --> 00:28:39,000
Marina Kim is a young woman who's
keen to see Kyrgyzstan move forward.
525
00:28:39,000 --> 00:28:40,960
Marina, you teach
526
00:28:40,960 --> 00:28:42,160
in the university here,
527
00:28:42,160 --> 00:28:44,960
can you tell me how long
you spent in England
528
00:28:44,960 --> 00:28:46,960
to get your perfect English?
SHE LAUGHS
529
00:28:46,960 --> 00:28:48,960
Do you want me to be honest?
Yes, I do.
530
00:28:48,960 --> 00:28:51,640
Erm, when I was a school girl,
531
00:28:51,640 --> 00:28:56,000
I was in love with erm...
boys band, the Backstreet Boys
532
00:28:56,000 --> 00:28:59,960
and I was so in love with them
so I started learning English
533
00:28:59,960 --> 00:29:02,160
to understand what are they
talking about.
534
00:29:02,160 --> 00:29:05,960
And I start learning English
535
00:29:05,960 --> 00:29:08,960
and then I entered the American
University of Central Asia.
536
00:29:08,960 --> 00:29:11,960
I think that my English
is good enough but not perfect.
537
00:29:11,960 --> 00:29:14,960
It's extremely good. And you have
such a... I don't know anybody else
538
00:29:14,960 --> 00:29:16,960
who's a professor at university
and also a DJ
539
00:29:16,960 --> 00:29:18,960
I mean this is
an extraordinary combination.
540
00:29:18,960 --> 00:29:20,960
And you haven't slept all
last night, have you? No.
541
00:29:20,960 --> 00:29:22,960
What were you doing? Tell me.
542
00:29:22,960 --> 00:29:24,320
I was DJing playing at...
543
00:29:24,320 --> 00:29:26,960
at the bar where I,
I'm working as a DJ,
544
00:29:26,960 --> 00:29:29,960
I had no chance to sleep.
You've had no chance to sleep.
545
00:29:29,960 --> 00:29:32,960
Marina, tell me what life is like
for women
546
00:29:32,960 --> 00:29:35,960
after you've seceded from
Soviet Union.
547
00:29:35,960 --> 00:29:37,960
I sometimes feel
548
00:29:37,960 --> 00:29:41,480
like a pioneer in living the life
549
00:29:41,480 --> 00:29:44,960
as I want it to be
550
00:29:44,960 --> 00:29:46,960
you know, because for example
551
00:29:46,960 --> 00:29:48,960
our mothers and our grandmothers,
552
00:29:48,960 --> 00:29:50,960
they were always pressed
by the society
553
00:29:50,960 --> 00:29:52,960
like you should get married,
554
00:29:52,960 --> 00:29:55,960
you should have kids,
you should...Stay at home.
555
00:29:55,960 --> 00:29:59,160
Yeah, stay at home.
Just erm, shut up and stuff
556
00:29:59,160 --> 00:30:01,960
and I feel like
I'm the first generation
557
00:30:01,960 --> 00:30:03,960
of women who are very free
558
00:30:03,960 --> 00:30:06,960
and we live our lives
559
00:30:06,960 --> 00:30:08,960
as we wanted to live
560
00:30:08,960 --> 00:30:12,960
and we are very positive.
561
00:30:12,960 --> 00:30:14,960
So this is new Kyrgyzstan?
562
00:30:14,960 --> 00:30:16,960
I just adore it.
563
00:30:24,960 --> 00:30:25,960
Driving eastwards,
564
00:30:25,960 --> 00:30:30,960
we come across the world's
second largest saline lake.
565
00:30:30,960 --> 00:30:31,960
Fed by hot subterranean springs,
566
00:30:31,960 --> 00:30:34,960
the beautiful lake
of Issyk Kul offered
567
00:30:34,960 --> 00:30:37,320
a balmy respite
for Silk Road traders
568
00:30:37,320 --> 00:30:39,960
coming across the mountains
from China.
569
00:30:39,960 --> 00:30:42,960
But its beauty hides
a grim history.
570
00:30:42,960 --> 00:30:45,960
Experts believe that the Black Death
that plagued Europe and Asia
571
00:30:45,960 --> 00:30:49,800
during the 14th century
originated here.
572
00:30:51,960 --> 00:30:53,960
The northern shores are popular
with Russian tourists
573
00:30:53,960 --> 00:30:56,160
escaping the summer heat
574
00:30:56,160 --> 00:30:59,960
but on the far more rustic
southern side
575
00:30:59,960 --> 00:31:02,960
is a beguiling little yurt camp
right on the lake shore.
576
00:31:08,960 --> 00:31:10,960
Come see inside.
577
00:31:10,960 --> 00:31:12,640
You have to duck.
578
00:31:12,640 --> 00:31:14,960
Look at this gorgeous space
I've got.
579
00:31:14,960 --> 00:31:18,480
I've got a beautiful skylight
at the top.
580
00:31:18,480 --> 00:31:19,960
And look here, chest of drawers,
581
00:31:19,960 --> 00:31:20,960
I've got a great big mirror here,
582
00:31:20,960 --> 00:31:22,960
I've put all my books
and stuff out there.
583
00:31:22,960 --> 00:31:25,480
I thought I'd put some things
in the drawers but...
584
00:31:26,960 --> 00:31:29,160
I think somebody's living
here, actually.
585
00:31:29,160 --> 00:31:31,960
Cos there, there's three hats,
I mean, I like a hat
586
00:31:31,960 --> 00:31:34,960
but I wouldn't have asked
for three hats, anyway.
587
00:31:34,960 --> 00:31:35,960
I've got a lovely bed here.
588
00:31:35,960 --> 00:31:37,960
Come, come, I've got a bathroom.
589
00:31:37,960 --> 00:31:39,960
This is rare, this is built
on to the side of yurt,
590
00:31:39,960 --> 00:31:42,960
you don't usually have this.
591
00:31:42,960 --> 00:31:44,960
Lavatory.
592
00:31:44,960 --> 00:31:46,960
And you put the paper
in the little bin
593
00:31:46,960 --> 00:31:49,640
cos I don't think it's got
the capabilities of...
594
00:31:51,800 --> 00:31:52,960
Come see my shower.
595
00:31:52,960 --> 00:31:54,960
I think somebody's in here already.
596
00:31:54,960 --> 00:31:55,960
Do you see what I mean
there's a sense,
597
00:31:55,960 --> 00:31:57,960
a sense that I'm encroaching,
598
00:31:57,960 --> 00:31:59,960
obviously thrown them out,
I've thrown them out,
599
00:31:59,960 --> 00:32:02,800
I don't mind doing that sometimes -
I'm rich and important, I do this.
600
00:32:06,960 --> 00:32:09,960
Hello, honey. It's so beautiful.
601
00:32:09,960 --> 00:32:11,960
The sound of birds singing,
602
00:32:11,960 --> 00:32:14,000
chickens wandering around,
603
00:32:14,000 --> 00:32:16,960
apple trees in blossom.
604
00:32:16,960 --> 00:32:19,960
That's a turkey gobbling
over there, actually, I think.
605
00:32:21,960 --> 00:32:23,960
And this gorgeous yurt
is the kitchen
606
00:32:23,960 --> 00:32:26,960
and in here they're making manti
which are
607
00:32:26,960 --> 00:32:28,960
sort of pastry dumplings, really,
608
00:32:28,960 --> 00:32:30,960
and these are found everywhere from
609
00:32:30,960 --> 00:32:34,640
Turkey and Albania all across
the Caspian Sea
610
00:32:34,640 --> 00:32:36,960
and across Nepal, Tibet
right through to China
611
00:32:36,960 --> 00:32:39,960
and of course here in Kyrgyzstan.
612
00:32:39,960 --> 00:32:41,960
I think each region twists them
613
00:32:41,960 --> 00:32:43,960
slightly differently.
Look how pretty.
614
00:32:43,960 --> 00:32:44,960
Look how beautiful.
615
00:32:44,960 --> 00:32:47,960
These are some cooking already
and it's steamed.
616
00:32:47,960 --> 00:32:49,480
How many minutes?
617
00:32:52,800 --> 00:32:53,960
Kirpesch. Just tippey tippey top.
618
00:32:55,800 --> 00:32:56,960
That gives me
619
00:32:56,960 --> 00:32:59,480
just enough time to make use
of the camp facilities.
620
00:33:00,960 --> 00:33:02,960
Well, isn't that divine.
621
00:33:02,960 --> 00:33:05,960
Look at that, it's the mobile sauna.
622
00:33:05,960 --> 00:33:07,960
Unusual little vehicle.
623
00:33:07,960 --> 00:33:09,960
It was left behind
by the Russians.
624
00:33:10,960 --> 00:33:12,960
Up we go.
625
00:33:12,960 --> 00:33:14,960
Here it says. This.
SHE SPEAKS KYRGYZ
626
00:33:17,000 --> 00:33:19,320
On the door so this means go in.
627
00:33:20,960 --> 00:33:22,960
Little bit of a...
628
00:33:22,960 --> 00:33:24,960
kick in to the sauna chamber.
629
00:33:24,960 --> 00:33:26,960
Phew.
630
00:33:31,000 --> 00:33:33,960
How lovely is this.
631
00:33:33,960 --> 00:33:36,960
Oh, that's blissful.
632
00:33:36,960 --> 00:33:38,960
Mm.
633
00:33:38,960 --> 00:33:42,000
I can feel...
634
00:33:42,000 --> 00:33:44,960
years of filth pouring out of me.
635
00:33:46,960 --> 00:33:49,960
DOOR SLAMS,
ENGINE STARTS
636
00:33:58,960 --> 00:34:00,960
Whoa.
637
00:34:02,960 --> 00:34:03,960
Where are we going?
638
00:34:03,960 --> 00:34:06,320
Oh!
639
00:34:13,640 --> 00:34:14,960
Erm...
640
00:34:14,960 --> 00:34:16,960
This is a bit odd.
641
00:34:19,800 --> 00:34:21,960
Oh, we've stopped.
642
00:34:21,960 --> 00:34:23,960
Can this be right?
643
00:34:24,960 --> 00:34:26,960
Oh.
644
00:34:26,960 --> 00:34:29,480
I'm in the lake.
645
00:34:29,480 --> 00:34:31,960
I might just put my feet in,
646
00:34:31,960 --> 00:34:33,960
I think...
647
00:34:33,960 --> 00:34:36,960
that's lovely, that's all
I really wanted to cool off on,
648
00:34:36,960 --> 00:34:39,960
just my feet.
649
00:34:39,960 --> 00:34:41,960
Goodness, it's cold.
650
00:34:52,640 --> 00:34:54,960
Just along the lake shore
from my yurt camp
651
00:34:54,960 --> 00:34:56,960
is the town of Bokonbayevo.
652
00:34:58,640 --> 00:35:00,960
I'm popping in to meet a family
that for generations
653
00:35:00,960 --> 00:35:03,960
has practised one of central Asia's
most ancient skills.
654
00:35:05,960 --> 00:35:07,960
Thank you, thank you.
655
00:35:07,960 --> 00:35:11,960
Hunting with eagles is still
a big part of the Kyrgyz culture.
656
00:35:13,960 --> 00:35:14,960
Wonderful picture.
657
00:35:16,960 --> 00:35:18,960
Over the centuries,
man has trained these birds
658
00:35:18,960 --> 00:35:22,960
to catch wild animals for meat
and for their valuable fur.
659
00:35:22,960 --> 00:35:26,960
Katerden has hunted with eagles
all his life
660
00:35:26,960 --> 00:35:29,960
and is now passing on these skills
to his young family.
661
00:35:34,960 --> 00:35:36,640
You're going well, my old pony.
662
00:35:38,640 --> 00:35:39,960
Katerden and his eldest daughter,
663
00:35:39,960 --> 00:35:42,960
Aruuke, are taking me up
into the mountains
664
00:35:42,960 --> 00:35:44,960
with Sirgak, a 7-year-old
female eagle
665
00:35:44,960 --> 00:35:48,480
to show me just
what she's capable of.
666
00:35:52,960 --> 00:35:55,960
Wow. What a view.
667
00:35:55,960 --> 00:35:59,960
The whole of the lake spreading
round in these rough mountains
668
00:35:59,960 --> 00:36:02,960
and this beautiful eagle
waiting to fly.
669
00:36:12,960 --> 00:36:16,320
Would it be possible for me
to hold the eagle?
670
00:36:16,320 --> 00:36:18,960
Yeah?
671
00:36:18,960 --> 00:36:21,960
Like that?
672
00:36:21,960 --> 00:36:24,960
How beautiful, quite a heavy bird.
There we are.
673
00:36:24,960 --> 00:36:27,960
What sort of personality
does this bird have?
674
00:36:27,960 --> 00:36:29,960
She a good girl?
675
00:36:41,960 --> 00:36:43,960
It's such a great privilege to hold
this bird.
676
00:36:43,960 --> 00:36:47,800
Extraordinary claws holding
on to the leather glove.
677
00:36:47,800 --> 00:36:50,800
And she's hooded,
completely calm.
678
00:36:50,800 --> 00:36:53,960
I've got such a sense of holding
on to power.
679
00:36:53,960 --> 00:36:55,960
Will you be very kind
680
00:36:55,960 --> 00:36:58,960
and take your beautiful bird back
as my arm is aching.
681
00:37:00,960 --> 00:37:02,960
Thank you, lovely bird,
for letting me hold you.
682
00:37:07,320 --> 00:37:09,960
Eagles are hard wired
into detecting movement
683
00:37:09,960 --> 00:37:11,960
over great distances
684
00:37:11,960 --> 00:37:14,480
and they can
spot a rabbit or fox
685
00:37:14,480 --> 00:37:16,960
over two miles away.
So Katerden has gone
686
00:37:16,960 --> 00:37:18,960
right down there with something
687
00:37:18,960 --> 00:37:19,960
that looks like a fox, it isn't,
688
00:37:19,960 --> 00:37:22,320
on the end of a string
and he's going to pull it
689
00:37:22,320 --> 00:37:23,960
and then she's going to take
the hood off
690
00:37:23,960 --> 00:37:26,000
and she's going to release
the jesses
691
00:37:26,000 --> 00:37:27,960
and the bird will fly.
692
00:37:47,960 --> 00:37:49,320
Look at that.
693
00:37:49,320 --> 00:37:51,960
Straight as an arrow,
straight down.
694
00:37:52,960 --> 00:37:54,960
During the times of the Silk Road,
695
00:37:54,960 --> 00:37:56,960
animal skins were a highly
sought-after commodity.
696
00:37:56,960 --> 00:37:59,960
As long ago as the 10th century,
697
00:37:59,960 --> 00:38:02,960
half a million pelts of sable,
urmin, mink and fox
698
00:38:02,960 --> 00:38:05,960
were traded across continents
to foreign markets
699
00:38:05,960 --> 00:38:08,800
thousands of miles away.
700
00:38:08,800 --> 00:38:10,960
Over the centuries, meat
from animals caught by the eagles
701
00:38:10,960 --> 00:38:13,960
also helped keep many people alive.
702
00:38:22,000 --> 00:38:25,960
This is where my journey
takes a dive south, 200 miles
703
00:38:25,960 --> 00:38:27,960
towards the Chinese border.
704
00:38:27,960 --> 00:38:30,960
The landscape is immense,
705
00:38:30,960 --> 00:38:34,960
high mountain passes
and vast wide valleys.
706
00:38:34,960 --> 00:38:36,960
As the traces of modern man diminish
707
00:38:36,960 --> 00:38:39,960
I can imagine huge caravans
of horses and camels
708
00:38:39,960 --> 00:38:41,960
passing through this terrain
709
00:38:41,960 --> 00:38:44,960
that's remained unchanged
for millennia.
710
00:38:47,960 --> 00:38:50,800
Nestled in this huge river valley,
711
00:38:50,800 --> 00:38:52,960
At-Bashy is the last town
on the road to China.
712
00:38:57,000 --> 00:39:01,960
I've managed to get here to catch
the local school's assembly.
713
00:39:01,960 --> 00:39:02,960
It's quite a do.
714
00:39:07,960 --> 00:39:11,960
The name At-Bashy
means "horse's head"
715
00:39:11,960 --> 00:39:15,320
after the legend of a herder
who chased his favourite horse
716
00:39:15,320 --> 00:39:17,960
300 miles to this town
717
00:39:17,960 --> 00:39:19,960
all the way from Uzbekistan.
718
00:39:23,960 --> 00:39:27,000
Tell me what it's like living here?
719
00:39:27,000 --> 00:39:28,960
Do you visit,
do you go to Bishkek sometimes?
720
00:39:28,960 --> 00:39:31,960
Do you stay here?
Do you travel abroad?
721
00:39:33,960 --> 00:39:36,960
When we have our holidays,
722
00:39:36,960 --> 00:39:38,960
we go to Bishkek but erm,
many times here and...
723
00:39:38,960 --> 00:39:43,480
Yes, of course. Have any of you
been outside the country?
724
00:39:43,480 --> 00:39:45,960
No, no, not yet.
You will, you will.
725
00:39:45,960 --> 00:39:47,960
Look at your lovely tie,
look at this.
726
00:39:47,960 --> 00:39:50,160
Isn't that nice?
THEY LAUGH
727
00:39:51,960 --> 00:39:53,960
Got to have this.
Sorry, your name is?
728
00:39:53,960 --> 00:39:55,960
Joanna. Joanna, Joanna.
729
00:39:55,960 --> 00:39:57,960
United by a selfie
730
00:39:57,960 --> 00:40:00,160
in this remote corner
of Kyrgyzstan.
731
00:40:00,160 --> 00:40:03,960
The Kyrgyz people were once a race
of nomadic herders
732
00:40:03,960 --> 00:40:06,960
and today most families
in At-Bashy
733
00:40:06,960 --> 00:40:10,800
have a scratch of land
to keep a few animals on.
734
00:40:10,800 --> 00:40:14,320
Mooskal and her husband, Narynbek,
keep horses,
735
00:40:14,320 --> 00:40:16,960
cows, goats and a few sheep.
736
00:40:23,960 --> 00:40:24,960
Over there? Right over there.
737
00:40:26,960 --> 00:40:29,960
But they also have a herd which
stays at high altitude
738
00:40:29,960 --> 00:40:32,480
and with the money they get
from breeding them
739
00:40:32,480 --> 00:40:34,960
they've managed to put four children
through college.
740
00:40:34,960 --> 00:40:37,640
Oh, look.
741
00:40:37,640 --> 00:40:38,960
Oh.
742
00:40:40,480 --> 00:40:42,960
A herd of yaks -
it's, it's literally unbelievable
743
00:40:42,960 --> 00:40:45,960
I feel this is as though
I'm right at the beginning of time.
744
00:40:45,960 --> 00:40:48,960
What beautiful heads,
beautiful faces. Look at that.
745
00:40:50,960 --> 00:40:52,960
Even through the long harsh winter,
746
00:40:52,960 --> 00:40:55,960
the yaks look after themselves
in the mountains.
747
00:40:56,960 --> 00:40:59,960
Is your herd healthy?
Is it happy? Is it expanding?
748
00:41:16,960 --> 00:41:20,000
It's easy to forget that these hardy
animals were crucial
749
00:41:20,000 --> 00:41:22,960
to establishing the Silk Road across
750
00:41:22,960 --> 00:41:26,960
mountainous parts of the world.
It was like a kind of relay race,
751
00:41:26,960 --> 00:41:28,160
the trading on the Silk Road.
752
00:41:28,160 --> 00:41:30,640
They took goods to the next post,
753
00:41:30,640 --> 00:41:32,960
exchanged them and then that person
754
00:41:32,960 --> 00:41:34,960
took them on to the next one
literally passing the trade on
755
00:41:34,960 --> 00:41:37,960
and on and on. And the coldest
and the most hostile regions
756
00:41:37,960 --> 00:41:42,960
were covered by the yak
carrying immense burdens.
757
00:41:42,960 --> 00:41:45,960
I have actually once ridden a yak.
758
00:41:46,960 --> 00:41:48,960
Very hairy.
759
00:41:48,960 --> 00:41:52,960
Very comfortable,
they're quite cross all the time.
760
00:41:52,960 --> 00:41:57,640
They're always going, uh, phew,
all right.
761
00:42:01,960 --> 00:42:03,960
It feels like I'm at the end
of the Earth
762
00:42:03,960 --> 00:42:05,960
but my route to the Chinese border
763
00:42:05,960 --> 00:42:08,960
is pulling me ever southwards.
764
00:42:08,960 --> 00:42:10,960
Before the border,
I'm going in search of somewhere
765
00:42:10,960 --> 00:42:12,480
that's been an important sanctuary
766
00:42:12,480 --> 00:42:14,960
on a dangerous and remote part
of the Silk Road.
767
00:42:14,960 --> 00:42:16,960
And it's fascinated me for years.
768
00:42:18,960 --> 00:42:20,960
The journey to get there
is an experience in itself,
769
00:42:20,960 --> 00:42:23,960
diverted off the main road
towards sheer cliffs
770
00:42:23,960 --> 00:42:27,960
which seem to part
and reveal a secret pass
771
00:42:27,960 --> 00:42:29,960
to a hidden inner valley.
772
00:42:32,960 --> 00:42:37,480
Myths, legends, even ghosts
abound within this fabled building.
773
00:42:37,480 --> 00:42:38,960
Oh, my gosh.
774
00:42:38,960 --> 00:42:40,960
Tash Rabat.
775
00:42:40,960 --> 00:42:43,960
I've been longing to come here
all my life.
776
00:42:43,960 --> 00:42:46,960
And now... I'm here.
777
00:42:53,960 --> 00:42:55,000
Phew.
778
00:42:56,640 --> 00:42:58,800
The temperature has plummeted.
779
00:43:00,960 --> 00:43:04,000
I've read so much about this.
780
00:43:04,000 --> 00:43:08,960
Tash Rabat was used
as a 15th century caravanserai
781
00:43:08,960 --> 00:43:12,960
but some scholars believe it
to have much more ancient origins.
782
00:43:12,960 --> 00:43:16,480
No-one really knows why
or when it was built.
783
00:43:16,480 --> 00:43:18,160
SHE GASPS
784
00:43:18,160 --> 00:43:21,160
Look at this.
785
00:43:27,320 --> 00:43:29,960
I wonder what goes on in here,
786
00:43:29,960 --> 00:43:30,960
these dark little antechambers.
787
00:43:30,960 --> 00:43:33,640
Ooh, this room spooks me a bit.
788
00:43:34,960 --> 00:43:35,960
You can see how it's a labyrinth.
789
00:43:35,960 --> 00:43:38,960
From the outside,
it looks quite contained
790
00:43:38,960 --> 00:43:42,960
but I wouldn't like to be here
at night, I'm here on a bright day.
791
00:43:47,960 --> 00:43:49,960
Look at this.
792
00:43:50,960 --> 00:43:53,960
That skylight much,
much better built
793
00:43:53,960 --> 00:43:55,960
and then here...
794
00:43:57,160 --> 00:43:59,960
this extraordinary buttressing.
795
00:43:59,960 --> 00:44:01,320
What kind of mortar did they use
796
00:44:01,320 --> 00:44:03,480
to keep it here for century
after century?
797
00:44:05,160 --> 00:44:06,960
I wonder if this is where
rich men slept.
798
00:44:06,960 --> 00:44:11,640
Gosh, there's nothing,
I know, nothing, but I love it.
799
00:44:15,960 --> 00:44:19,960
It's quite extraordinary to come
to this place.
800
00:44:19,960 --> 00:44:21,960
It is so remote,
801
00:44:21,960 --> 00:44:23,000
it is so...
802
00:44:23,000 --> 00:44:25,960
unreachable but I'm here.
803
00:44:27,960 --> 00:44:30,960
It's absolutely redolent of history,
804
00:44:30,960 --> 00:44:31,960
all the people
805
00:44:31,960 --> 00:44:35,960
who have ever passed through it,
century after century after century,
806
00:44:35,960 --> 00:44:39,960
all their thoughts and memories
and griefs and ambitions
807
00:44:39,960 --> 00:44:41,960
stored in these walls.
808
00:44:41,960 --> 00:44:43,960
It's not haunted...
809
00:44:43,960 --> 00:44:46,960
it's inhabited.
810
00:44:47,960 --> 00:44:50,960
SHE WHISPERS: Tash Rabat.
811
00:44:58,960 --> 00:45:00,960
Beyond those mountains
812
00:45:00,960 --> 00:45:02,960
lies the People's Republic
of China.
813
00:45:02,960 --> 00:45:03,960
We've travelled
814
00:45:03,960 --> 00:45:07,960
nearly 4,000 miles through
eight very different countries.
815
00:45:07,960 --> 00:45:09,640
We started in Venice
816
00:45:09,640 --> 00:45:11,960
and found the ancient records
of Marco Polo.
817
00:45:11,960 --> 00:45:14,960
In Turkey, we visited caravanserais
818
00:45:14,960 --> 00:45:18,480
and underground Christian churches.
819
00:45:18,480 --> 00:45:20,960
We've seen modern and booming
Azerbaijan.
820
00:45:20,960 --> 00:45:24,160
The vast scale and beauty of Iran
821
00:45:24,160 --> 00:45:27,960
и фантастичне градове и пејзаже централне Азије.
822
00:45:27,960 --> 00:45:31,800
Све до Кини где је Пут свиле је почела.
823
00:45:32,960 --> 00:45:34,160
Вов!
824
00:45:34,160 --> 00:45:36,960
Ми смо овде возио кроз највише величанственог пејзажа
825
00:45:36,960 --> 00:45:39,960
а то је граница у Кини
826
00:45:39,960 --> 00:45:41,960
и ту сам се надао да оде
827
00:45:41,960 --> 00:45:43,960
али већина досадно овај пут
828
00:45:43,960 --> 00:45:47,960
Нисам добио дозволу да снимам у Народној Републици Кини.
829
00:45:47,960 --> 00:45:49,640
Дасх - и то је тако досадан
830
00:45:49,640 --> 00:45:51,960
јер та земља има не само велику историјску базу
831
00:45:51,960 --> 00:45:53,960
целе свиле,
832
00:45:53,960 --> 00:45:55,480
свила се тамо развио
833
00:45:55,480 --> 00:45:57,960
и сви његов значај у нашој причи
834
00:45:57,960 --> 00:45:59,960
али модерни чуда Кине
835
00:45:59,960 --> 00:46:02,960
и своју нову Силк Роад.
836
00:46:02,960 --> 00:46:05,960
Све ствари које смо могли да вам показао тамо. Дасх.
837
00:46:05,960 --> 00:46:08,960
Али, можда следећи пут, ко зна.
838
00:46:10,960 --> 00:46:12,960
Титлови за ТВТ
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