Original subtitles

NARRATOR: Join us on an epic train journey through Provence,

from the fast-paced 21st century back into France's rural past,

a land of breath-taking vistas,

stunning lavender fields

and astonishing medieval hilltop villages.

We'll climb to the top of some of the highest peaks...

This is the Nepali Bridge,

where you have quite a bit of air underneath your feet.

..enter a world of steam...

Smells absolutely delicious.

I haven't been hauled by a steam locomotive for an awful long time.

..and taste a local delicacy...

..before arriving deep into the heart of France.

I feel very lucky to be able to work here with such great scenery.

It's a win-win for me.

We'll meet the people who live and work along this very special train line.

A very beautiful line, and for us it's very important to save it.

This is no ordinary railway journey.

This is one of the most scenic railway journeys in the world,

le Train des Pignes.

It is no secret that the French Riviera has a reputation

for glitz, glamour

and golden tans.

Since the arrival of the railway in the 19th century,

this stretch of coast has been the playground of the rich and famous.

For the past 150 years, they have flocked here

to enjoy the balmy summers and the extravagant lifestyle.

Caught between the startlingly blue Mediterranean

and the equally stunning skies

is the city of Nice.

And it is here, at the decidedly modernist Gare des Chemins de Fer de Provence

that we begin our journey today.

Our destination is here,

le Rocher de Neuf Heures, a 3,000-feet-high peak

that overlooks the ancient town of Digne-les-Bains.

Here we will climb to the top to take in the spectacular views over Provence.

Weighing in at a magnificent 69 tonnes,

our train today is the ultramodern two-car AMG 800 DMU.

Running on a narrow one-metre-gauge track at 131 feet long,

the maximum speed for this beast is 62 miles per hour.

This modern train will be our portal into the past

and will be taking us on an incredible journey.

Our driver today is Bastien Machado.

He has been working on this train for five years.

With all the passengers on board, coffee in hand,

and with all luggage stowed,

it is time for the 0830 train to depart.

Our 93-mile journey will take three and a half hours.

After we leave Nice we travel north

to the charming village of Villars-sur-Var.

From here our train heads west to Puget-Theniers,

where we swap our modern train for one powered by steam.

We then gently meander to the fairy-tale village of Entrevaux

and on to Annot, where we leave our vintage steam train.

Back in the 21st century, our modern train

heads into the mountains and the village of Le Fugeret

before stopping at our penultimate station, Thorame-Haute.

Continuing west, we arrive at our destination,

the spectacular cliff face above Digne-les-Bains

and the views across Provence.

On board today, taking care of all passenger needs,

is conductor Christophe Curvin.

Les Chemins de Fer de Provence railway began construction in 1890.

Built to connect the tiny rural communities of Provence

to Nice and the international markets beyond,

the line was finally completed in 1911.

Also known as le Train des Pignes, the pine cone train,

allegedly because when the line was first built

the train travelled so slowly that passengers could jump off

to collect fallen pine cones before climbing back on board,

today it carries around 400,000 passengers per year.

On our journey, we will encounter

16 viaducts, 15 bridges and 27 tunnels,

including the 11,341-feet-long

Tunnel de la Colle-Saint-Michel, but more of that later.

For now, it's time to settle in and take in

some of the most magnificent scenery France has to offer.

It's early May and everything is just humming with potential.

One hour after our departure from Nice,

we have travelled 30 miles, and back several hundred years,

as we arrive at our first stop, Villars-sur-Var.

With just 730 inhabitants, this medieval village

is close enough to Nice to be the perfect place

to escape the hustle and bustle of the Cote d'Azur.

These venerable streets and buildings would have been known to the Knights Templar,

an ancient religious military order of warrior monks closely connected to the Crusades.

In fact, the Templars established the ancient vineyards

that have surrounded this region for over a thousand years.

Another ancient industry here is the production of olive oil.

The olive trees were originally brought here by the Romans,

and in this valley things haven't changed too much since then.

Here the old ways are the best,

and they still like to do things the traditional way.

Dating from around 1860, the Pierrot Carletti Mill

is one of the last in the area still operating exclusively by hand -

or should I say by water?

Powered by a local river with water from the mountains,

their method of extraction is a process that has barely changed in generations.

RUSHING WATER

Cecile Deboule is in charge of the mill and the olive grove that surrounds it.

What's unique about this mill is that it's all mechanical,

so there's no electricity used,

except for lighting and heating, of course.

It's powered by water.

When we receive the olives, we first weight them,

and then we throw them in here,

and it's being grinded for two or three hours, so it's a long process.

Last season we had more than six tonnes of olives delivered here in the mill

and we produced more than one tonne of olive oil.

So we were really happy with that result and it was a really good year.

The olive trees in the grove here have been giving up their fruit for many, many generations.

With this in mind, you'd be forgiven for thinking that growing olives is an easy process.

But sometimes even Mother Nature needs a helping hand.

We need to keep the branches healthy so that they can have fruit on them.

So it's really a question of

finding out which branches will be the good ones

and help those branches.

This branch that I've just cut, we don't see any flowers yet.

They're going to be there in a month or so, around June.

And then the olives will start to pop out between July and November,

and we pick them up in this region around December, when they're ripe.

I feel very lucky to live here and be able to work in the olive trees

here with such great scenery.

It's really a pleasure all year round,

because you have beautiful weather.

Not today unfortunately but mostly.

It's a win-win for me.

Like wine, the taste of olive oil depends on the weather, the soil and the care.

No two harvests are alike.

All that remains now is to try the local vintage.

It looks really good.

Sometimes it's a little more green,

but this one really has a nice yellow colour.

It's a little piquant, so it's sharp to the tongue,

but it's sweet as well, really good.

I personally think the olive oil that we grow here is the best in the world.

As our train weaves its way through the countryside of Provence,

our journey is about to quite literally take a very different turn.

As we head west into the mountains,

we change trains and travel further into the past

as we enter a world of steam.

We're time-travelling on one of the world's most scenic railways

through the stunning landscape of France's rural past

from Nice to the cliffs above Digne-les-Bains in Provence.

There's fantastic nature here.

Looks as if it's never been touched when you look out the window.

You can almost smell the cheese and taste the baguette.

HE CHUCKLES

This is a trip worth going on.

As our journey continues west,

we have been travelling for an hour and 15 minutes

and are about to arrive at our next stop,

Puget-Theniers.

Stretching languidly at the confluence of the Var and Roudoule rivers,

in this village classic French houses give way

to shady squares and inviting cafes.

And it is here that modernity gives way to tradition

as we change trains onto this steam-driven beauty

for this next section of the line.

This 286-horsepower E327 locomotive dates from 1909

and originally ran in Finisterre in the north-west of France,

where it happily towed trains for almost 60 years.

When that line closed, she was saved from destruction and eventually brought here.

STEAM WHISTLE BLOWS

Now, classified as a national monument and running on Sundays and selected days during the summer,

this stately old lady enjoys a leisurely retirement,

cared for by 50 adoring volunteers...

..Jean Michel Delfino being one of them.

It's a very beautiful line, and for us it's very important to save it.

We are volunteers. We're not paid for it.

But our pay is people who take this train, passengers,

and say to us after, "Very good. Very beautiful."

This is a beautiful train, and it's clearly much loved by the volunteers.

HISSING

However, like many other steam heritage groups,

the future of this train lies in the hands of future volunteers,

so they like to start them young.

This is my son. He's four years and a half and he's boarding the train.

When he's older, if he wants to be a train driver, if he wants to work on the trains, he could.

If he don't want, he'll make his own life.

For the moment, he likes trains. I don't know, I can't say if he likes the tank engines as much.

Before this magnificent beast can depart,

several safety checks need to be carried out

by Jean Michel's wife, Lucile.

With all passengers on board, all checks carried out,

and with a delightful blast from the antique steam whistle...

STEAM WHISTLE BLOWS

..this most majestic of trains can depart.

STEAM WHISTLE BLOWS

Julien Bruguier is the on-board fireman today.

Smells absolutely delicious.

I haven't been hauled by a steam locomotive for an awful long time.

It is authentic.

It's equipment that was made a century ago and it's still running,

which is what I love about steam.

It's the smell of it, the sound of it, the feel of it.

It's always moving. And the clickety-clack of the wheels on the rails.

As we step back in time and head into the mountains,

the beauty of this part of the line is revealed.

STEAM WHISTLE BLOWS

All too soon we arrive at our next scheduled stop,

Entrevaux.

With around 800 inhabitants,

the streets of this spectacular medieval village

are crammed with ancient and beautiful buildings.

However, one building that dominates the local landscape

is this imposing fortified citadel.

Perched almost 500 feet above Entrevaux,

the citadel was built around 1690

as protection for the vulnerable village below.

And from up here, the views are incredible.

This amazing building continued as a military garrison right up until the early 20th century,

with German prisoners of war being held here during World War One,

after which it fell into disrepair.

It wasn't until 1989 that local residents

created an association to renovate the citadel and work began.

Eliane Terrin is the president of the association,

and there is always plenty to do.

Even with a group of dedicated residents doing all they can,

help is still needed from skilled local craftsmen.

And one of those skilled helpers is builder Yohann Fournier.

Also a village resident, he is just as dedicated as Eliane.

With an edifice as imposing as the citadel,

it would be easy to overlook some of the other less noticeable buildings in Entrevaux.

However, your detective work will be rewarded once you find the cathedral.

Built between 1609 and 1630,

the cathedral was integrated into the fortifications of the village.

One wall forms part of the ramparts

and the belfry is also a fortified defence tower.

Unprepossessing on the outside,

this 17th-century church reveals a treasure chest of baroque delights

once you are through the doors.

Marie Tapiau is a local tour guide.

It is time for us to leave the Middle Ages

and swap it for the Edwardian era

as we return to our 1909 steam locomotive.

STEAM WHISTLE BLOWS

Eventually we cross the magnificent Viaduc de la Donne.

At 446 feet long and 137 feet high,

it's the highest viaduct on this line.

These particular mountains are 45 million years old

and are formed from a rock known as gres d'Annot...

..which also gives its name to our next stop.

Sadly, this is where we must leave the world of steam.

If beautiful French villages float your boat,

then you need look no further than the ancient village of Annot.

From cobbles to doorways to mullioned windows,

this is the Middle Ages breaking through into the 21st century.

But it's not all about rustic beauty here.

This is also home to a local delicacy,

the humble Caillette,

known to you and me as a pork meatball.

Originating in the 16th century,

the Caillette has been feeding the locals here for over 500 years.

Everyone has their own recipe, but today we are visiting the Boucherie Devincenzi.

The shop is run by Philippe alongside his mother, Alberte,

brother Sebastien and daughter Oriane.

With three generations working here, this is definitely a family business.

As with all recipes, the secret to a good Caillette is the quality of the ingredients.

Following in her father's footsteps, daughter Oriane is also a qualified butcher.

Like all good family recipes, this one has a secret ingredient.

First of all, the pork is minced

and the secret ingredient, a mix of local herbs and spices, is added.

Then an egg mixture is added to bind it all together.

Once all mixed through, the balls are formed.

Finally, the piece de resistance, if you like.

The meatballs are wrapped in the lining of a pig's stomach and roasted.

Let us now leap forward in time.

ORIANE:

Leaving the ancient beauty of Annot,

we must return to the 21st century and our modern train.

As we weave our way through the fertile landscapes of Provence,

we are about to enter a world of sensory romance,

the lavender fields.

Our train left Nice two hours ago on its journey to Digne-les-Bains.

As well as being perfect for transporting tourists,

our train, which, let's be frank, looks more like a school coach,

also takes locals about their daily business.

We are now deep into the foothills of the southern Alps,

a place of fresh air, dazzling light and sumptuous horizons.

It is also one of the most fragrant areas on earth...

..and we get to explore it as we arrive at our next stop,

Le Fugeret.

With over 50,000 acres given over to local production,

in summer, the land surrounding Le Fugeret station is a sea of lavender.

Not only does this delight our passengers

but it also delights one tiny yet massively important insect,

the bee.

France has one of the oldest and best managed honey industries in the world,

and lavender-flavoured Provence honey is among the best.

Celine Di Popolo turned to the traditional art of beekeeping about five years ago.

She currently has 80 hives.

DRILLING

To the untrained eye, beekeeping looks like the simplest job in the world.

Buy a hive, populate it with bees, collect honey.

However, it's not quite so simple.

Did you know the humble bee likes to be cosy?

Clearly they also favour bright colours.

According to the French beekeepers' association,

because of unseasonably cold and wet weather caused by climate change,

France has recently had its worst honey harvest in 50 years.

Last year, at around 9,000 tonnes of honey gathered,

the yield was down by two-thirds.

With France consuming around 40,000 tonnes of honey per year,

it's no surprise Celine takes exceptional care of her bees.

Back on our line, we have rejoined the modern AMG 800 DMU locomotive.

As our journey continues through the foothills of the southern Alps,

we uncover some spectacular scenery.

Soon we are crossing the splendid Viaduc de Maouna.

Built in 1911, it has nine 50-feet-wide arches,

and, at 646 feet, it's the longest viaduct on the line.

No sooner are we across than we rush headlong

into probably the most spectacular feat of engineering on the line.

Le Tunnel de la Colle-Saint-Michel

is a staggering 11,341 feet long.

Travelling in an almost straight line through the mountain, it was completed in 1903,

eight years before the line itself was finished.

It took three years and 800 men

to carve and blast this tunnel through the mountainside from each end.

At the exit, we are 3,356 feet above sea level.

And if you love tunnels, you don't get much better than this.

We are now arriving at our penultimate stop,

Thorame-Haute.

Clinging to the foot of the Chamatte Massif mountains,

the commune of Thorame-Haute is a collection of enchantingly tiny villages.

Overlooked by the dramatic and spectacular Rock of Notre-Dame

sits the village of Castellane.

It is here, in our journey back into France's rural history,

that we have swapped 1,000 horsepower for just two.

May I introduce you to the farmer's favourite,

the Citroen.

This is Henri Fradet, and he loves the Citroen.

In fact, he loves the Citroen so much,

he owns 124 of them.

Worried that this classic was disappearing from the streets of France,

after a career as a restauranteur in Oslo,

he decided to save an example of each from 1948 up to 1974

and has now opened a museum.

I decided 40 years ago to collect cars,

but I was not supposed to make a museum at the time.

But I began to get five, six cars in original condition,

and I thought it was a good idea to show them to the public.

Arguably the most famous car Citroen ever created was the legendary 2CV.

Originally produced just after the Second World War, the 2CV was cheap to make and cheap to buy.

It was designed with very specific requirements.

It needed to be able to carry four people and a basket of eggs across a muddy field

without whipping up an interior omelette.

Favoured by farmers, doctors and students, this cabriolet was very practical.

Spare parts were cheap and it was easy to drive.

And it was this car that brought the city to these rural areas.

These days they have a cult following,

and the leader of that cult is Henri.

This car looks like a regular 2CV, but the condition is so unique.

Nothing has been moved, it's original in any detail,

and that's very important for me.

This is the first bonnet. That appeared in 1948.

If you look inside, the condition is amazing everywhere.

That's very difficult to find, believe me. HE CHUCKLES

And suicide doors. We call it suicide doors in France

because it was quite dangerous for young people.

They could fall down from the car when the car is moving,

so in 1965 in France it was not allowed any more to produce.

So that's one of the last models, 1960.

And you will see with one finger you can open the bonnet.

And then you discover a twin-cylinder, air-cooled engine

with low mileage - 7,000 kilometres.

No radiator. You see the fan front.

It's very easy to work on this car

because everything is easy to access.

The 2CV was designed to be light and easy to use.

This little screw here, you can take it away and then this part off

and you will take the doors out.

This part here was used to open the window,

so you make it like this,

inside here.

But it was quite dangerous for the fingers,

and that's quite uncomfortable.

HE CHUCKLES

Time, I think, to take one of these beauties out for a spin

to see if that early air-conditioning works.

And what better way to preserve the dodgy wipers on an ancient French car

than a couple of wine corks?

ENGINE WHINES

That's the typical noise, the 2CV noise.

Air-cooled engine. First and second gear, with one finger.

All is easy.

CAR ACCELERATES

Third gear.

I love this noise. HE CHUCKLES

When you love 2CVs, you feel well to hear this noise.

When you drive, you shouldn't be in a hurry, you should take it poetically,

because it's a cool feeling.

No stress. Relax. Everything is OK.

It just goes a little slowlier than a regular modern car.

But anyway, in France, as in England, you cannot drive so fast,

so never mind.

Back on the train, and we are speeding towards our destination,

the towering cliffs above Digne-les-Bains.

TRAIN HORN HOOTS

We are travelling on one of the world's most scenic railways

from Nice to the cliffs above Digne-les-Bains in Provence.

This has been a journey through history,

with an ever-changing kaleidoscope of scenery

of forested cliffs, rushing torrents,

fertile plains and medieval villages,

and it is here that our spectacular train trip draws to a close

at Digne-les-Bains.

As well as being a renowned spa town,

the surrounding area is also famous for its rock-climbing,

which is why, at the end of our journey,

we have come to take part in one of the most spectacular climbs,

the Rocher de Neuf Heures,

known locally as the nine-hour rock.

On the edge of Digne is the Via Ferrata, or iron steps,

a climbing route designed to make as much as possible out of the outstanding views,

and one that employs metal fixtures as a safety measure.

Climbing instructor Kira Engle is going to show us how it is done.

On the Via Ferrata, anyone can do it.

It's made so it's very accessible, with very good holds.

You have the iron bars that are in the cliff.

So it's very practical.

And a nice view of the city of Digne also.

We have two carabiners. We keep attached with both of them.

When you push here, that opens.

I take it off, I move one,

and then I can move the other one.

The number one rule is to always stay attached

with at least one of the carabiners.

When you move them, you don't take both of them off.

You're always attached at any given moment to the cable of security.

We're between 30 and 50 metres.

Here we're almost at the highest point of the Via,

probably at 35 metres.

This is one of my favourite bits of the climb,

where it kind of comes up and behind this fold of rock

and finishes on this ladder.

It's a nice vertical part of the Via.

As you go along, there are a couple more obstacles to overcome.

This one here is the Nepali Bridge,

where you have one cable for your feet

and two cables for your hands.

It's 30 metres long,

and you have quite a bit of air underneath your feet.

SHE CHUCKLES

On the cliffs is a lot of bird life.

Falcons in the Verdon, which is not too far from here.

Vultures, which you can see flying around here.

These ones are some of the most common, the crag martins.

If you look around, you'll actually see several that are flying around.

Here we have one of the crag martin nests.

That is actually made from their spit.

They spit their nests and it makes kind of like a little egg around them.

The climb to the top may not take nine hours,

but when you get there you can see why this is the perfect end to our journey.

The views are truly incredible.

We're seeing the mountains and the town,

with their orange roofs of Provence which are so typical.

The entire valley is spread out before you. It's gorgeous.

I really enjoy seeing people's awe at being high up,

because it's kind of like re-experiencing it for the first time,

and it's definitely something that takes you out of your normal life.

And to be high up and to look down and feel the air under your feet,

it's a really wonderful experience.

Our train has travelled from the urbane charms of Nice

through the beauty of Provence

and into the foothills of the southern Alps.

We have marvelled at its soaring mountains and its hidden valleys.

We have gloried in the depths of its gorges

and the breadth of its vistas.

It is a line that speaks of a France of the past.

Le Train des Pignes is one of the great scenic railway journeys of the world.