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Would you like to inspect the original subtitles? These are the user uploaded subtitles that are being translated: 1 00:00:03,960 --> 00:00:10,960 Join us on a journey aboard the magnificent steam train Tornado 2 00:00:10,960 --> 00:00:15,960 as we travel along one of Britain's most beautiful railways... 3 00:00:15,960 --> 00:00:17,960 ALL: Cheers! 4 00:00:17,960 --> 00:00:21,960 ...to a place with a spectacular coastline 5 00:00:21,960 --> 00:00:25,160 and extraordinary engineering. 6 00:00:25,160 --> 00:00:26,960 Amazing. 7 00:00:26,960 --> 00:00:30,000 It's one of the greatest pieces of civil engineering 8 00:00:30,000 --> 00:00:32,960 in the railways in Britain. It's that simple. 9 00:00:33,960 --> 00:00:37,000 An area that survived a violent past... 10 00:00:37,000 --> 00:00:40,960 The famous Viking attack of 793 11 00:00:40,960 --> 00:00:43,960 was probably something akin to the Twin Towers. 12 00:00:43,960 --> 00:00:46,160 ..and changed the modern world. 13 00:00:47,320 --> 00:00:49,160 Other railway stations around the world, 14 00:00:49,160 --> 00:00:52,960 such as New York Grand Central, Amsterdam Central, 15 00:00:52,960 --> 00:00:55,800 followed the template of Robert Stephenson's idea. 16 00:00:56,960 --> 00:00:58,960 We'll meet the people who live and work 17 00:00:58,960 --> 00:01:01,000 along this very special train line. 18 00:01:04,320 --> 00:01:06,960 This is no ordinary railway journey. 19 00:01:06,960 --> 00:01:12,960 This is one of the most scenic railway journeys in the world - 20 00:01:12,960 --> 00:01:15,960 north-east England to Edinburgh. 21 00:01:29,960 --> 00:01:33,960 Our rail adventure today begins at York Station, 22 00:01:33,960 --> 00:01:36,960 and waiting for us at platform ten 23 00:01:36,960 --> 00:01:41,960 is Peppercorn Class A1 Pacific 60163, 24 00:01:41,960 --> 00:01:44,960 better known as Tornado. 25 00:01:46,960 --> 00:01:52,960 This massive 22-metre, 169-tonne steam locomotive 26 00:01:52,960 --> 00:01:55,960 may look as though it's from the 1940s, 27 00:01:55,960 --> 00:01:58,960 but was only completed in 2008. 28 00:02:01,960 --> 00:02:04,960 Today's journey is the Edinburgh Flyer, 29 00:02:04,960 --> 00:02:09,960 and Tornado has been coupled up with 13 vintage passenger coaches 30 00:02:09,960 --> 00:02:11,960 for its trip to Scotland's capital. 31 00:02:13,960 --> 00:02:19,960 No-one knows this trip better than Rob Tibbetts, the train manager. 32 00:02:19,960 --> 00:02:21,960 Are you on our Edinburgh train? 33 00:02:21,960 --> 00:02:24,960 Yeah, we are. Yeah? H would be towards this end. 34 00:02:25,960 --> 00:02:29,160 The appearance of an engine, a majestic machine like this, 35 00:02:29,160 --> 00:02:30,960 or any steam locomotive, 36 00:02:30,960 --> 00:02:33,960 always seems to bring out goodwill in people, 37 00:02:33,960 --> 00:02:36,960 and they love to look in it and photograph it, 38 00:02:36,960 --> 00:02:40,960 listen to it, smell it. It's always an exciting day. 39 00:02:40,960 --> 00:02:44,480 Today, Rob and his team of volunteer stewards 40 00:02:44,480 --> 00:02:46,960 will be looking after 200 passengers. 41 00:02:50,960 --> 00:02:53,960 Right, we're all set to leave, so we wait now for the guard 42 00:02:53,960 --> 00:02:57,960 to give the green flag, and then we'll be under way. 43 00:02:59,960 --> 00:03:04,800 At 6:27am, Tornado pulls away from York Station 44 00:03:04,800 --> 00:03:07,960 to begin its six-and-a-half-hour journey north. 45 00:03:09,960 --> 00:03:12,960 Good morning, everybody. Just checking, everybody settled in all right? 46 00:03:12,960 --> 00:03:14,800 Would you like any tea? Yes, please. 47 00:03:14,800 --> 00:03:15,960 Would you like milk? Yes, please. 48 00:03:16,960 --> 00:03:21,320 The passengers can now sit back and enjoy some of the best service 49 00:03:21,320 --> 00:03:23,160 and scenery in the country. 50 00:03:25,800 --> 00:03:28,960 Our journey will take us from York to Edinburgh. 51 00:03:28,960 --> 00:03:33,960 The first stop is to Darlington, the birthplace of the modern railway, 52 00:03:33,960 --> 00:03:36,960 and then on to the cathedral City of Durham. 53 00:03:36,960 --> 00:03:38,960 From there, we'll travel to Newcastle 54 00:03:38,960 --> 00:03:42,160 before heading up the Northumbrian coast to Craster, 55 00:03:42,160 --> 00:03:44,480 Bamburgh and Lindisfarne. 56 00:03:45,960 --> 00:03:48,960 We then cross the River Tweed at Berwick-upon-Tweed 57 00:03:48,960 --> 00:03:53,960 and into Scotland, before completing our 200-mile journey in Edinburgh. 58 00:04:01,320 --> 00:04:04,960 There are three classes of travel on board today, 59 00:04:04,960 --> 00:04:08,960 ranging from standard to the luxury Premier Dining Car. 60 00:04:10,640 --> 00:04:11,960 Buck's Fizz for everybody? 61 00:04:11,960 --> 00:04:14,320 Oh, yes, please. Yes, thank you. Yes, yes, please. 62 00:04:14,320 --> 00:04:16,160 Oh, thank you very much. Thank you. 63 00:04:16,160 --> 00:04:17,960 All enjoy. Yeah. Lovely. 64 00:04:17,960 --> 00:04:19,960 ALL: Cheers! Thank you very much. 65 00:04:20,960 --> 00:04:24,160 Expertly preparing the freshly-cooked breakfasts 66 00:04:24,160 --> 00:04:26,960 in the tiny kitchen 67 00:04:26,960 --> 00:04:29,000 are chefs Bobby and Adam. 68 00:04:29,000 --> 00:04:31,960 We've got some nice rostis, sausage. 69 00:04:31,960 --> 00:04:33,640 They're going straight under the grill 70 00:04:33,640 --> 00:04:35,800 while I just wait for these eggs. 71 00:04:35,800 --> 00:04:37,960 You're on the train, it's oscillating everywhere, 72 00:04:37,960 --> 00:04:40,960 so obviously you need lips, the plates are there, 73 00:04:40,960 --> 00:04:42,960 and then it's pretty dangerous with the eggs, 74 00:04:42,960 --> 00:04:45,960 but we don't put as much oil in, so... 75 00:04:45,960 --> 00:04:48,960 Then we'll serve this straight to the steward. 76 00:04:50,960 --> 00:04:52,960 Smoked salmon with scrambled eggs for you. Lovely, thank you. 77 00:04:52,960 --> 00:04:54,960 I think it's a good job to have, really. 78 00:04:54,960 --> 00:04:58,960 A lot of chefs would love this job. It's much sought after. 79 00:05:00,960 --> 00:05:03,960 One of the passengers enjoying today's trip 80 00:05:03,960 --> 00:05:06,960 is retired train driver John Scott. 81 00:05:06,960 --> 00:05:10,960 He knows every inch of this route through North Yorkshire. 82 00:05:10,960 --> 00:05:14,160 When we left York, we drove around the curve at Skelton 83 00:05:14,160 --> 00:05:16,960 and then we went across the Vale of York, 84 00:05:16,960 --> 00:05:20,960 and that is what we train drivers call the Racetrack, 85 00:05:20,960 --> 00:05:24,960 because that's where the speed records for diesel trains 86 00:05:24,960 --> 00:05:26,960 were set in the 1980s. 87 00:05:27,960 --> 00:05:30,960 John may have driven diesel trains for 40 years, 88 00:05:30,960 --> 00:05:34,960 but steam will always be his first love. 89 00:05:34,960 --> 00:05:37,960 The steam locomotive seems to have a life of its own. 90 00:05:37,960 --> 00:05:40,320 Not only can you see the steam, but, of course, you can hear it. 91 00:05:40,320 --> 00:05:42,960 And of course, the added bonus is if you open the window, 92 00:05:42,960 --> 00:05:46,960 then you'll get all the smutch from the steam as well. 93 00:05:46,960 --> 00:05:49,960 Tornado can reach speeds of 100mph, 94 00:05:49,960 --> 00:05:54,160 but today will be travelling mostly at a more sedate 75. 95 00:05:57,960 --> 00:06:00,320 I absolutely adore steam travel. 96 00:06:00,320 --> 00:06:04,960 It's the best, most relaxing way to see the countryside. 97 00:06:04,960 --> 00:06:07,960 It's a big family day out, so it's really lovely to be out together 98 00:06:07,960 --> 00:06:09,960 and, you know, getting really well looked after as well, 99 00:06:09,960 --> 00:06:11,960 so it's a real treat. Yes. 100 00:06:11,960 --> 00:06:13,960 I had the porridge to start with 101 00:06:13,960 --> 00:06:17,800 and then the full English with granary toast. It's been delicious. 102 00:06:17,800 --> 00:06:20,320 And the Buck's Fizz, not forgetting the Buck's Fizz! Oh, yes! 103 00:06:20,320 --> 00:06:21,960 Yes, and the Buck's Fizz, of course. 104 00:06:24,960 --> 00:06:30,960 An hour after leaving York, Tornado arrives at Darlington - 105 00:06:30,960 --> 00:06:33,960 famous for the Stockton to Darlington Railway 106 00:06:33,960 --> 00:06:38,480 and the Darlington Locomotive Works, Tornado's birthplace. 107 00:06:40,960 --> 00:06:42,960 That's better. Keep going. 108 00:06:42,960 --> 00:06:44,960 I think we're getting in this time, yeah. 109 00:06:44,960 --> 00:06:47,960 I am one of those fortunate people 110 00:06:47,960 --> 00:06:52,960 who, for the last 20 years, has been paid to build steam locomotives, 111 00:06:52,960 --> 00:06:55,960 which has been my hobby ever since I was an infant. 112 00:06:56,960 --> 00:07:00,800 Tornado was a labour of love for David and his team, 113 00:07:00,800 --> 00:07:05,000 and it took 18 years to design and build this modern-day steam engine. 114 00:07:07,640 --> 00:07:08,960 But they're not stopping there 115 00:07:08,960 --> 00:07:12,960 because David's latest project, the P2 locomotive, 116 00:07:12,960 --> 00:07:14,960 is even more ambitious. 117 00:07:17,160 --> 00:07:20,960 Built between 1934 and 1936, 118 00:07:20,960 --> 00:07:25,960 the P2s were once the most powerful passenger locomotives in the UK. 119 00:07:28,960 --> 00:07:32,480 Nearly all the major parts for this engine have been made elsewhere. 120 00:07:32,480 --> 00:07:35,960 But once the parts arrive here, because we're essentially building 121 00:07:35,960 --> 00:07:39,960 a prototype, there's no guarantee that they're going to just go 122 00:07:39,960 --> 00:07:41,960 straight on to the engine without further adjustment. 123 00:07:43,960 --> 00:07:46,960 Eddie's using a dial gauge here. 124 00:07:46,960 --> 00:07:49,960 How much are we taking off this, Ed? 125 00:07:49,960 --> 00:07:51,640 Ten 1,000ths of an inch. 126 00:07:52,960 --> 00:07:54,960 When steam locomotives were first introduced, 127 00:07:54,960 --> 00:07:58,000 they obviously didn't have the technology or the measuring 128 00:07:58,000 --> 00:08:01,960 equipment we have today, which makes it all the more amazing 129 00:08:01,960 --> 00:08:04,480 that they managed to produce things, these locomotives, 130 00:08:04,480 --> 00:08:06,960 that worked so well. 131 00:08:06,960 --> 00:08:09,960 As none of the original P2s have survived, 132 00:08:09,960 --> 00:08:13,960 David has had to work out every single component 133 00:08:13,960 --> 00:08:16,000 with 3D software. 134 00:08:16,000 --> 00:08:20,960 At the time that the original P2s were built in Doncaster, 135 00:08:20,960 --> 00:08:23,960 I believe it's somewhere in the region of 2,800 people 136 00:08:23,960 --> 00:08:25,960 worked in the workshops there. 137 00:08:25,960 --> 00:08:28,960 Well, this technology, we are building this with probably 138 00:08:28,960 --> 00:08:30,960 a total of about ten people. 139 00:08:37,960 --> 00:08:39,960 WHISTLE TOOTS 140 00:08:41,960 --> 00:08:43,800 Back on board Tornado, 141 00:08:43,800 --> 00:08:47,000 it's clear David and his team's hard work was worth it. 142 00:08:48,960 --> 00:08:51,960 I just love the whole ethos of the train - 143 00:08:51,960 --> 00:08:54,960 the sound, the smell, everything about it. 144 00:08:54,960 --> 00:08:56,960 It's a wonderful experience. 145 00:08:56,960 --> 00:08:58,960 We travel on various services 146 00:08:58,960 --> 00:09:01,960 quite often around the country. My dad loves steam 147 00:09:01,960 --> 00:09:03,960 and I love seeing the engines perform, 148 00:09:03,960 --> 00:09:07,160 going all over the country, seeing the different lines they travel on, 149 00:09:07,160 --> 00:09:08,960 so it's really good, yeah. 150 00:09:08,960 --> 00:09:12,960 From Darlington, Tornado powers its way north 151 00:09:12,960 --> 00:09:14,320 to Durham and Newcastle. 152 00:09:15,960 --> 00:09:18,960 This stretch here you really are driving the train 153 00:09:18,960 --> 00:09:23,960 because they are very... There are curves along the route 154 00:09:23,960 --> 00:09:26,960 and you know what you're doing if you can drive over this route. 155 00:09:29,960 --> 00:09:32,960 We are now approaching Durham Station. 156 00:09:32,960 --> 00:09:37,960 You will see, to our right, the famous view of Durham Cathedral. 157 00:09:37,960 --> 00:09:39,160 Thank you. 158 00:09:46,960 --> 00:09:50,960 Just a half mile from here is one of the world's greatest cathedrals 159 00:09:50,960 --> 00:09:56,960 that has stood proud above the city for almost 1,000 years. 160 00:09:56,960 --> 00:09:59,960 Built by the Normans, it was deliberately designed 161 00:09:59,960 --> 00:10:04,960 on a massive scale to show off their power and impress the locals. 162 00:10:04,960 --> 00:10:08,960 The 22-metre high stone vault ceiling was, 163 00:10:08,960 --> 00:10:11,960 and still is, considered extraordinary. 164 00:10:12,960 --> 00:10:15,960 And by building such a magnificent cathedral, 165 00:10:15,960 --> 00:10:18,960 the Normans made it clear that they were here to stay. 166 00:10:20,960 --> 00:10:23,960 And not put us to the test, 167 00:10:23,960 --> 00:10:27,960 but save use from the Evil One. 168 00:10:27,960 --> 00:10:29,960 Over 900 years later, 169 00:10:29,960 --> 00:10:32,960 the cathedral is still a vibrant community. 170 00:10:35,960 --> 00:10:39,160 And 66 metres above the altar, 171 00:10:39,160 --> 00:10:43,320 bell major Nathan is preparing for their weekly rehearsal. 172 00:10:45,480 --> 00:10:47,320 Welcome to the Durham Cathedral Bell Tower. 173 00:10:47,320 --> 00:10:48,960 We've got ten bells in the tower. 174 00:10:48,960 --> 00:10:53,960 The earliest bell dates from 1693, 175 00:10:53,960 --> 00:10:56,960 and the heaviest bell that we have, the tenor bell, 176 00:10:56,960 --> 00:10:58,480 weighs a tonne and a half. 177 00:10:58,480 --> 00:11:01,960 And getting ten bells ringing in harmony takes a lot of practice. 178 00:11:04,960 --> 00:11:06,960 Yeah, that's, like, our music score, 179 00:11:06,960 --> 00:11:08,960 but it's patterns rather than music notes. 180 00:11:08,960 --> 00:11:11,960 You ring a little bit slower when you're going up to the right 181 00:11:11,960 --> 00:11:14,960 and a little bit quicker when you're going down to the left. 182 00:11:14,960 --> 00:11:18,960 So you memorise them and then practise them to get them perfect. 183 00:11:18,960 --> 00:11:21,960 So, right, we're going to ring Bob Doubles now, OK? 184 00:11:21,960 --> 00:11:23,960 Treble is going. And gone. 185 00:11:24,960 --> 00:11:27,800 BELLS RING 186 00:11:46,960 --> 00:11:52,960 Our train now heads onwards to Newcastle's historic station 187 00:11:52,960 --> 00:11:56,640 and Northumbria's stunning coastline. 188 00:12:05,960 --> 00:12:10,960 We're 66 miles into a luxury steam train journey. 189 00:12:10,960 --> 00:12:13,960 Pulled by the mighty Tornado, 190 00:12:13,960 --> 00:12:17,160 our passengers are relishing some superb service 191 00:12:17,160 --> 00:12:20,800 as they pass through north-east England. 192 00:12:20,800 --> 00:12:22,160 After exploring Durham, 193 00:12:22,160 --> 00:12:25,960 we head to Newcastle upon Tyne Central Station 194 00:12:25,960 --> 00:12:29,960 and then on to the magnificent Northumbrian coast, 195 00:12:29,960 --> 00:12:33,960 where we'll stop at the little fishing village of Craster. 196 00:12:35,960 --> 00:12:39,960 We boarded at Durham this morning and that first view of the engine 197 00:12:39,960 --> 00:12:42,960 as it rounds off the viaduct into the station 198 00:12:42,960 --> 00:12:44,160 was absolutely fantastic. 199 00:12:44,160 --> 00:12:48,480 We've been train enthusiasts since we were young boys 200 00:12:48,480 --> 00:12:50,960 and we'd promised ourselves after I retired 201 00:12:50,960 --> 00:12:52,960 that we would do some sort of trip. 202 00:12:52,960 --> 00:12:55,960 This came up, Stuart lives in Durham. 203 00:12:55,960 --> 00:12:56,960 Just perfect. 204 00:12:56,960 --> 00:13:00,960 My brother is treating me to this day out, so very exciting. 205 00:13:02,960 --> 00:13:06,960 As Tornado continues to pull its 13 coaches north, 206 00:13:06,960 --> 00:13:09,960 our guard today is Stephen Shields, 207 00:13:09,960 --> 00:13:12,960 who's spent 40 years working on the local railways. 208 00:13:13,960 --> 00:13:17,160 This is a 1960s guard's van, or brake van, 209 00:13:17,160 --> 00:13:20,160 whatever you want to call it. We have no onboard computer. 210 00:13:20,160 --> 00:13:23,320 Everything is as it was in the 1960s. 211 00:13:24,320 --> 00:13:28,160 I've been doing this many, many years now, and I still get excited 212 00:13:28,160 --> 00:13:32,320 by the whiff of the steam and the coal. 213 00:13:32,320 --> 00:13:34,960 It's a pleasure to come to work. 214 00:13:34,960 --> 00:13:37,960 They're a living thing and every one of them is different. 215 00:13:46,960 --> 00:13:50,640 ANNOUNCER: We are now approaching Newcastle Central Station. 216 00:13:50,640 --> 00:13:53,960 If you look out either side of the train, 217 00:13:53,960 --> 00:13:57,160 you will see the River Tyne below and the well-known bridges 218 00:13:57,160 --> 00:13:59,960 that link Gateshead and Newcastle. 219 00:14:04,960 --> 00:14:08,960 Most passengers travelling through Newcastle Central 220 00:14:08,960 --> 00:14:10,960 don't take much notice of the architecture, 221 00:14:10,960 --> 00:14:14,960 but in the middle of the 19th century, this massive structure 222 00:14:14,960 --> 00:14:17,800 was simply out of this world. 223 00:14:18,800 --> 00:14:21,960 It's also John's home station. 224 00:14:24,160 --> 00:14:28,960 Most people in the early 1840s, 1850s, had never travelled 225 00:14:28,960 --> 00:14:31,960 more than ten miles from where they lived, so you can imagine 226 00:14:31,960 --> 00:14:34,960 somebody travelling from the countryside who had never seen 227 00:14:34,960 --> 00:14:38,960 a railway in their lives arriving at a place like this. 228 00:14:38,960 --> 00:14:41,960 It must have been a magnificent thing for them. 229 00:14:44,160 --> 00:14:48,960 With the railways so new, local engineer Robert Stephenson 230 00:14:48,960 --> 00:14:53,960 was keen to make an impact, and he did just that. 231 00:14:54,960 --> 00:14:57,960 Opened by Queen Victoria in 1850, 232 00:14:57,960 --> 00:15:01,960 the station was a massive 12,000 square metres, 233 00:15:01,960 --> 00:15:05,960 with platforms stretching almost 800 metres long... 234 00:15:07,960 --> 00:15:10,160 ..with an enormous arched roof 235 00:15:10,160 --> 00:15:13,960 supported by curved wrought iron ribs. 236 00:15:14,960 --> 00:15:18,640 All the other main railway stations throughout the world, 237 00:15:18,640 --> 00:15:21,960 such as New York Grand Central, the Antwerp Station 238 00:15:21,960 --> 00:15:25,960 and Amsterdam Central, and all those fantastic stations 239 00:15:25,960 --> 00:15:29,160 followed the template of Robert Stephenson's idea 240 00:15:29,160 --> 00:15:31,960 of building an iconic railway station. 241 00:15:31,960 --> 00:15:33,960 And you can see why. 242 00:15:34,960 --> 00:15:39,960 Incredibly, Hadrian's Wall runs directly underneath the station, 243 00:15:39,960 --> 00:15:42,960 and the locals were keen not to forget this. 244 00:15:44,160 --> 00:15:47,160 We're now walking up to, and appropriately named, 245 00:15:47,160 --> 00:15:48,960 the Centurion pub, 246 00:15:48,960 --> 00:15:52,960 which was part of the extension of 1893, 247 00:15:52,960 --> 00:15:56,000 when the North Eastern Railway decided to provide 248 00:15:56,000 --> 00:16:00,960 a first class refreshment room in beautiful tiling. 249 00:16:00,960 --> 00:16:05,960 Now, the strange thing is, by the time we get to the 1960s, 250 00:16:05,960 --> 00:16:09,960 British Rail decided to cover it up with plasterboard. 251 00:16:09,960 --> 00:16:13,160 Fortunately, it's now back into its full glory. 252 00:16:16,960 --> 00:16:21,960 In today's money, it would cost in excess of ยฃ4.5 million 253 00:16:21,960 --> 00:16:23,960 to build this. 254 00:16:32,960 --> 00:16:36,960 We now leave the powerhouse of Britain's industrial success 255 00:16:36,960 --> 00:16:38,960 and continue our journey, 256 00:16:38,960 --> 00:16:42,960 but this time into a very different landscape. 257 00:16:44,160 --> 00:16:48,160 The extraordinary north-east coast. 258 00:16:48,160 --> 00:16:50,960 Every inch hides a bit of history, 259 00:16:50,960 --> 00:16:54,960 from Viking attacks to its 70 castles. 260 00:16:56,960 --> 00:17:00,960 Tucked away not far from our railway line is our next stop, 261 00:17:00,960 --> 00:17:04,160 the tiny fishing village of Craster. 262 00:17:04,160 --> 00:17:07,960 A place where time seems to have stood still 263 00:17:07,960 --> 00:17:10,960 and ancient traditions still continue. 264 00:17:13,160 --> 00:17:17,960 We're at L. Robson & Sons, Craster. Traditional fish smokers. 265 00:17:17,960 --> 00:17:21,960 In the 15th, 16th century, heron would be the staple diet 266 00:17:21,960 --> 00:17:24,800 of the population of Britain at one time, 267 00:17:24,800 --> 00:17:27,960 because it was readily available and easy to catch 268 00:17:27,960 --> 00:17:31,160 and there used to be smoke houses all the way up the coast. 269 00:17:32,960 --> 00:17:37,800 Established over 100 years ago, L. Robson & Sons 270 00:17:37,800 --> 00:17:41,160 have helped make the Craster the kipper of choice. 271 00:17:42,160 --> 00:17:47,960 And today, they still produce between 7,000 to 8,000 a day. 272 00:17:47,960 --> 00:17:50,960 That's over a million a year. 273 00:17:50,960 --> 00:17:53,960 George is now going to put the herring in the brine. 274 00:17:53,960 --> 00:17:56,800 They're in there for approximately 20 minutes. 275 00:17:56,800 --> 00:18:00,960 And this is quite a crucial, critical part of the whole process. 276 00:18:00,960 --> 00:18:02,960 You've got to have the right salt content. 277 00:18:02,960 --> 00:18:04,960 Too salty, nobody wants to eat them, 278 00:18:04,960 --> 00:18:08,960 and not salty enough and they don't turn out as kippers quite as good. 279 00:18:11,960 --> 00:18:14,960 Well, this is... We're putting the herring on to tenter sticks. 280 00:18:14,960 --> 00:18:17,960 You've heard the expression "on tenterhooks", 281 00:18:17,960 --> 00:18:20,960 well, they are the tenterhooks that they're putting the herring on. 282 00:18:20,960 --> 00:18:23,160 This has never changed throughout the years. 283 00:18:23,160 --> 00:18:26,960 Only difference is that's stainless steel instead of wood - the sticks. 284 00:18:26,960 --> 00:18:29,960 But you can see it's a very labour intensive job. 285 00:18:31,960 --> 00:18:35,960 Neil's great-grandfather began working here in the 19th century 286 00:18:35,960 --> 00:18:38,960 and would still recognise it today. 287 00:18:40,960 --> 00:18:43,960 We're in one of the smoke houses that were built in 1856 288 00:18:43,960 --> 00:18:45,960 and there's three like this. 289 00:18:45,960 --> 00:18:48,960 You can see the herring all hanging up there. 290 00:18:49,960 --> 00:18:52,960 And now they're ready for the fires to be lit. 291 00:18:52,960 --> 00:18:56,960 What we'll do is we'll light six little mounds of shavings, 292 00:18:56,960 --> 00:18:59,960 pat them down, put oak sawdust over the top 293 00:18:59,960 --> 00:19:03,160 and then light them at the back all the way to the front. 294 00:19:06,960 --> 00:19:11,960 And they'll be in here for about 14, 15 hours before they're ready. 295 00:19:11,960 --> 00:19:14,960 They've come in as herring, they go out as kippers. 296 00:19:15,960 --> 00:19:19,160 Still people think of this as like a cathedral full of kippers 297 00:19:19,160 --> 00:19:21,960 with the light shining through. 298 00:19:24,160 --> 00:19:26,960 It always gives me a little buzz when I see them. 299 00:19:38,960 --> 00:19:43,160 The English romantic painter JMW Turner once said 300 00:19:43,160 --> 00:19:46,960 that it was the skies of Northumbria that made him famous. 301 00:19:49,960 --> 00:19:54,960 200 years later, the local landscape is still a source of inspiration. 302 00:20:00,000 --> 00:20:02,960 For an artists, it's a brilliant place to live, yeah. 303 00:20:02,960 --> 00:20:05,160 Couldn't wish for anywhere better. 304 00:20:05,160 --> 00:20:08,160 Being in a wheelchair sets challenges 305 00:20:08,160 --> 00:20:11,960 but, I mean, there's challenges in life all the time 306 00:20:11,960 --> 00:20:15,960 and it's a matter of trying to work out how we can overcome them. 307 00:20:16,960 --> 00:20:21,160 Once I'm on terra firma, I can shuffle across the land, 308 00:20:21,160 --> 00:20:25,960 find the position that I want to paint from, and away we go. 309 00:20:25,960 --> 00:20:30,960 So, just put the gear that I need to one side. 310 00:20:33,960 --> 00:20:35,960 Out of the chair... 311 00:20:35,960 --> 00:20:39,960 ..and start moving down to where I need to go. 312 00:20:41,960 --> 00:20:43,480 There you go. 313 00:20:44,960 --> 00:20:46,960 Perfect view. 314 00:20:48,960 --> 00:20:50,960 I think we can start. 315 00:20:51,960 --> 00:20:54,960 This Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty 316 00:20:54,960 --> 00:20:59,960 was once the largest and most powerful kingdom in the land. 317 00:20:59,960 --> 00:21:04,960 Now this rugged coastline is home to countless wildlife. 318 00:21:06,960 --> 00:21:08,160 SQUAWKING 319 00:21:09,160 --> 00:21:12,960 Wow! That's worth coming down here, for that. 320 00:21:14,960 --> 00:21:16,960 I carry what I can, 321 00:21:16,960 --> 00:21:19,960 but the rocks kind of give me an easel. 322 00:21:20,960 --> 00:21:23,960 I've got a cushion, so I'm quite comfortable. 323 00:21:23,960 --> 00:21:26,960 And the perfect viewpoint as well, where the wheelchair can't go, 324 00:21:26,960 --> 00:21:29,960 but I can, so it gives us a nice... 325 00:21:30,960 --> 00:21:32,960 ..different perspective. 326 00:21:41,960 --> 00:21:45,960 I never get bored of painting the sea because it's a bit... 327 00:21:45,960 --> 00:21:49,960 It's kind of kaleidoscopic - it constantly evolves and changes. 328 00:21:51,960 --> 00:21:53,960 Painting it is wonderful. 329 00:21:55,960 --> 00:21:57,960 TRAIN WHISTLES 330 00:21:58,960 --> 00:22:02,960 We're now more than four hours into our journey... 331 00:22:03,960 --> 00:22:08,160 ..and as Tornado powers north, we head towards the surprisingly 332 00:22:08,160 --> 00:22:12,960 cosmopolitan Anglo-Saxon stronghold of Bamburgh. 333 00:22:23,960 --> 00:22:27,960 We're on board a special, luxurious train 334 00:22:27,960 --> 00:22:31,160 pulled by the mighty locomotive Tornado, 335 00:22:31,160 --> 00:22:34,160 and we're heading towards Edinburgh. 336 00:22:35,800 --> 00:22:38,320 Our next port of call is at Bamburgh, 337 00:22:38,320 --> 00:22:42,960 and then it's only a short distance to the holy island of Lindisfarne, 338 00:22:42,960 --> 00:22:47,160 before heading to Berwick Upon-Tweed and passing into Scotland. 339 00:22:47,160 --> 00:22:52,960 From the border, it's just over 50 miles to our destination, Edinburgh. 340 00:22:57,960 --> 00:23:01,960 Something we've always wanted to do is come on a steam train journey, 341 00:23:01,960 --> 00:23:04,160 a nice long one from York all the way up to Edinburgh. 342 00:23:04,160 --> 00:23:05,960 Lovely, lovely time. 343 00:23:05,960 --> 00:23:08,960 As our train travels north, 344 00:23:08,960 --> 00:23:13,160 we run for a while alongside the glorious Northumbrian coastline. 345 00:23:15,160 --> 00:23:20,960 And, as the area was occupied by the Romans, invaded by the Vikings 346 00:23:20,960 --> 00:23:23,960 and lorded over by the Normans, 347 00:23:23,960 --> 00:23:28,160 it's no wonder this stretch is packed with castles. 348 00:23:32,160 --> 00:23:36,160 One particularly spectacular example is Bamburgh, 349 00:23:36,160 --> 00:23:40,960 which has guarded the coastline here for over 1,400 years. 350 00:23:45,160 --> 00:23:50,160 Today, though, the local sand dunes are a much more peaceful place. 351 00:23:51,960 --> 00:23:55,160 It's often referred to as Britain's most scenic golf course 352 00:23:55,160 --> 00:23:57,960 and if you do with 360 and have a look around, 353 00:23:57,960 --> 00:23:59,960 there's just views everywhere. 354 00:23:59,960 --> 00:24:03,160 So even if you're playing badly, you can still enjoy your day out. 355 00:24:07,160 --> 00:24:10,960 It is not just one of Britain's most beautiful golf courses 356 00:24:10,960 --> 00:24:14,000 but, as it stands on the very edge of the North Sea, 357 00:24:14,000 --> 00:24:16,000 one of its most challenging. 358 00:24:17,000 --> 00:24:19,160 Here we go. Right down the middle. 359 00:24:20,960 --> 00:24:24,960 Oh, no! Too much power. Straight past us. 360 00:24:26,160 --> 00:24:28,960 We think it's a calm day, most people probably think 361 00:24:28,960 --> 00:24:31,320 it's a hurricane, but it's just fantastic. 362 00:24:34,960 --> 00:24:38,960 But Bamburgh's sand dunes are not just home to lost balls. 363 00:24:44,960 --> 00:24:48,960 They hide an incredible history close to the castle walls, 364 00:24:48,960 --> 00:24:51,960 as archaeologist Graham Young explains. 365 00:24:53,800 --> 00:24:57,960 Well, we are standing on the edge of a burial ground 366 00:24:57,960 --> 00:24:59,960 from well over 1,000 years ago 367 00:24:59,960 --> 00:25:03,160 and behind me now, where we see this beautiful Marram grass 368 00:25:03,160 --> 00:25:06,960 and dune field, would at the time that the burial ground was in use, 369 00:25:06,960 --> 00:25:09,960 would have been a tidal beach, so a very different landscape. 370 00:25:10,960 --> 00:25:15,960 Over the years, sand gradually covered the Anglo-Saxon graves 371 00:25:15,960 --> 00:25:19,160 and, from the 14th century, they were hidden from view. 372 00:25:20,960 --> 00:25:24,960 There was a great storm event in the winter of 1817 373 00:25:24,960 --> 00:25:26,480 and the sand was blown away 374 00:25:26,480 --> 00:25:29,960 and burials outlined in stone were exposed. 375 00:25:29,960 --> 00:25:32,960 And this was the first time anyone had seen the burial ground, 376 00:25:32,960 --> 00:25:34,960 probably since the Middle Ages. 377 00:25:34,960 --> 00:25:37,960 We can't actually see the cemetery itself now. 378 00:25:37,960 --> 00:25:40,960 It's gone back to looking something like a picnic area. 379 00:25:40,960 --> 00:25:44,960 But the burials that were lifted and undertake scientific study, 380 00:25:44,960 --> 00:25:47,160 we did re-bury within St Aidan's within the village, 381 00:25:47,160 --> 00:25:49,960 so we can go and have a visit of the burials in their crypt now. 382 00:25:51,960 --> 00:25:56,960 The Reverend Louise Taylor-Kenyon is the new vicar of St Aidan's 383 00:25:56,960 --> 00:26:00,960 and wasn't here when over 100 Anglo-Saxon skeletons 384 00:26:00,960 --> 00:26:03,160 were laid to rest inside her church. 385 00:26:05,960 --> 00:26:08,960 What can you tell me about these people here? 386 00:26:08,960 --> 00:26:13,160 Well, we know the cemetery itself contains whole family groups. 387 00:26:13,160 --> 00:26:16,960 We have every age from neonates, basically a new baby, 388 00:26:16,960 --> 00:26:19,160 right through to quite elderly people. 389 00:26:22,960 --> 00:26:25,960 Most of St Aidan's was built in the late 12th century, 390 00:26:25,960 --> 00:26:30,160 but there's been a church on this site since St Aidan himself 391 00:26:30,160 --> 00:26:33,960 lived here in 635 AD. 392 00:26:35,960 --> 00:26:39,640 When we have a 7th century knife and a radiocarbon date 393 00:26:39,640 --> 00:26:42,960 that extends from the 6th century to the mid 7th century, 394 00:26:42,960 --> 00:26:45,960 we know that that individual has almost certainly died 395 00:26:45,960 --> 00:26:47,960 in the age of St Aidan. Which is incredible. 396 00:26:47,960 --> 00:26:51,160 So what you're saying is here, underneath the church at St Aidan's, 397 00:26:51,160 --> 00:26:54,960 we've got the actual bones of people who would have been alive 398 00:26:54,960 --> 00:26:57,960 and would have known him - actually lived in the same place as him. Yes. 399 00:26:57,960 --> 00:27:01,960 One of the surprising elements from the results of the isotope data, 400 00:27:01,960 --> 00:27:04,960 which gives us indication of where people grew up, 401 00:27:04,960 --> 00:27:07,960 is I think of all the burials that we have here that we got data from, 402 00:27:07,960 --> 00:27:10,960 about eight were locals from this part of Northumberland 403 00:27:10,960 --> 00:27:13,960 and everyone else came from somewhere else in the British Isles 404 00:27:13,960 --> 00:27:15,960 or even from abroad. 405 00:27:15,960 --> 00:27:17,960 Many came from Scotland and Ireland, 406 00:27:17,960 --> 00:27:22,160 but, surprisingly, some clearly came from much hotter climates. 407 00:27:24,960 --> 00:27:28,160 The only connection between the Mediterranean world 408 00:27:28,160 --> 00:27:31,960 and early medieval Northumbria that makes any sense 409 00:27:31,960 --> 00:27:34,160 is the Christian Church, so we're looking at people 410 00:27:34,160 --> 00:27:36,960 who've travelled from the far reaches of Christendom. 411 00:27:36,960 --> 00:27:39,480 That is quite extraordinary, isn't it? 412 00:27:42,640 --> 00:27:44,160 TRAIN WHISTLES 413 00:27:45,960 --> 00:27:49,800 This is my first mainline trip on a steam train. 414 00:27:49,800 --> 00:27:52,960 I have been to many heritage railways before, 415 00:27:52,960 --> 00:27:54,000 but never on the mainline. 416 00:27:54,000 --> 00:27:56,160 It's really, really good. 417 00:27:57,160 --> 00:28:00,160 It's only ten miles until our next stop, 418 00:28:00,160 --> 00:28:03,160 which you can just glimpse from the train - 419 00:28:03,160 --> 00:28:06,960 an extraordinary island on the horizon. 420 00:28:12,960 --> 00:28:15,960 Lindisfarne is a bewitching place. 421 00:28:15,960 --> 00:28:18,960 A tidal island that's cut-off every day. 422 00:28:18,960 --> 00:28:22,960 It's as rich in wildlife as it is in history. 423 00:28:23,960 --> 00:28:27,960 It may be tiny, but as it was the home of both St Aidan 424 00:28:27,960 --> 00:28:32,960 and St Cuthbert, its reputation as the cradle of Christianity 425 00:28:32,960 --> 00:28:35,960 in north-east England was enormous 426 00:28:35,960 --> 00:28:39,960 and one that ultimately led to its destruction. 427 00:28:42,960 --> 00:28:46,960 Back in the 7th century, it was the epicentre of Celtic Christianity, 428 00:28:46,960 --> 00:28:50,160 and it was so important that it became a target for the Vikings, 429 00:28:50,160 --> 00:28:51,960 who came here to raid it. 430 00:28:51,960 --> 00:28:55,960 And, in fact, the famous Viking attack of 793 431 00:28:55,960 --> 00:28:58,960 was probably something akin to the Twin Towers, 432 00:28:58,960 --> 00:29:01,960 as this was an extremely important area for Christianity. 433 00:29:01,960 --> 00:29:03,960 It's unlikely the Vikings chose it by accident. 434 00:29:03,960 --> 00:29:06,960 It was there to send a message that they were on their way. 435 00:29:11,160 --> 00:29:14,160 The Vikings weren't the last to attack the island, 436 00:29:14,160 --> 00:29:18,960 and by the 17th century, the priory had fallen into ruin. 437 00:29:19,960 --> 00:29:23,960 But even today, thousands still follow the wooden pilgrim poles 438 00:29:23,960 --> 00:29:27,160 across from the mainland to the island each year, 439 00:29:27,160 --> 00:29:29,960 maintaining Lindisfarne's reputation 440 00:29:29,960 --> 00:29:33,960 as one of the UK's holiest destinations. 441 00:29:34,960 --> 00:29:37,960 We've been here for about two-and-a-half years 442 00:29:37,960 --> 00:29:39,960 and we absolutely love it. 443 00:29:39,960 --> 00:29:42,160 We're a really small island, 150 people, 444 00:29:42,160 --> 00:29:44,960 but about 700,000, 800,000 visitors 445 00:29:44,960 --> 00:29:47,960 and tourists and pilgrims every year. 446 00:29:47,960 --> 00:29:50,320 So that's quite a contrast, really, 447 00:29:50,320 --> 00:29:53,960 but so fortunate to live in this beautiful place. 448 00:29:54,960 --> 00:29:56,960 Come on, let's go. 449 00:29:56,960 --> 00:29:59,960 Let's go to the beach. There we go. 450 00:30:02,960 --> 00:30:05,960 When I'm walking this way, it's like I really feel 451 00:30:05,960 --> 00:30:08,960 I'm in the footsteps of St Aidan, St Cuthbert 452 00:30:08,960 --> 00:30:12,160 and Eadfrith, who wrote the Lindisfarne Gospels here, 453 00:30:12,160 --> 00:30:18,160 and all the other monks way back in the 7th, 8th, 9th centuries. 454 00:30:31,960 --> 00:30:34,160 This is a real liminal place. 455 00:30:34,160 --> 00:30:37,960 A thin place where the distance between Earth and heaven 456 00:30:37,960 --> 00:30:40,160 is smaller than other places. 457 00:30:42,960 --> 00:30:45,960 So, here we are. These are the famous pilgrims' polls. 458 00:30:45,960 --> 00:30:49,960 And you can see they go all the way across to the mainland. 459 00:30:49,960 --> 00:30:53,960 It's traditional for pilgrims to take their shoes off 460 00:30:53,960 --> 00:30:55,960 and to walk barefoot across the sands. 461 00:30:55,960 --> 00:30:58,960 But also, there's something about walking on holy ground 462 00:30:58,960 --> 00:31:03,960 with your bare feet, so it's a special and important thing to do. 463 00:31:05,960 --> 00:31:08,960 We can't walk the whole polls now, the tide is coming in, 464 00:31:08,960 --> 00:31:11,960 but I'm going to take my shoes and socks off here 465 00:31:11,960 --> 00:31:14,960 and walk the remainder of the polls as a pilgrim, barefoot. 466 00:31:18,640 --> 00:31:24,960 Walking barefoot on holy ground is a really intensely beautiful 467 00:31:24,960 --> 00:31:28,960 and spiritual and physical thing to do, really. 468 00:31:28,960 --> 00:31:33,160 We're connected with God's Earth, God's sand, as we do it. 469 00:31:35,960 --> 00:31:39,960 And it's incredible looking at the sea pinks and the flora 470 00:31:39,960 --> 00:31:42,960 and the samphire all around here as well, 471 00:31:42,960 --> 00:31:46,960 which is all exposed when the tide is down. 472 00:31:49,160 --> 00:31:53,960 It's a really special, peaceful, spiritual, beautiful place. 473 00:32:01,960 --> 00:32:03,160 TRAIN WHISTLES 474 00:32:05,960 --> 00:32:08,960 Four-and-a-half hours after leaving York, 475 00:32:08,960 --> 00:32:12,960 Tornado is now steaming its way along the north-east coast 476 00:32:12,960 --> 00:32:17,960 towards England's most northern town - Berwick Upon-Tweed, 477 00:32:17,960 --> 00:32:22,960 where we cross the magnificent Royal Border Bridge. 478 00:32:23,960 --> 00:32:25,960 Amazing. 479 00:32:26,960 --> 00:32:28,960 What a view we've got. 480 00:32:28,960 --> 00:32:31,960 It's fabulous. And they keep going out to sea. 481 00:32:44,960 --> 00:32:46,960 TRAIN WHISTLES 482 00:32:50,960 --> 00:32:55,960 We're on board the Edinburgh Flyer, pulled by the mighty Tornado, 483 00:32:55,960 --> 00:32:58,960 as it powers up the north-east of England. 484 00:33:01,960 --> 00:33:05,960 Our train has just crossed the towering Royal Border Bridge 485 00:33:05,960 --> 00:33:10,160 and will now stop to take on water at Berwick Upon-Tweed. 486 00:33:19,960 --> 00:33:21,960 Good afternoon, David. 487 00:33:23,960 --> 00:33:25,160 Let go. 488 00:33:25,160 --> 00:33:28,960 As Berwick is such an important crossing point, 489 00:33:28,960 --> 00:33:30,960 its bridges are world-famous... 490 00:33:31,960 --> 00:33:36,160 ..and a lifelong passion for local historian Jim Herbert. 491 00:33:38,160 --> 00:33:42,160 James VI of Scotland became James I of England in 1603. 492 00:33:42,160 --> 00:33:46,960 On his journey down to London, he came through Berwick first, 493 00:33:46,960 --> 00:33:51,160 and he had to cross this rickety old wooden bridge built in 1478 494 00:33:51,160 --> 00:33:54,960 that had been badly damaged by ice floes, 495 00:33:54,960 --> 00:33:58,960 and it's said he was so afraid for his life that he commanded 496 00:33:58,960 --> 00:34:01,960 a new bridge for Berwick be built out of stone 497 00:34:01,960 --> 00:34:05,960 as a symbol of his Union of the Kingdoms. 498 00:34:05,960 --> 00:34:07,960 And it's still here today. 499 00:34:08,960 --> 00:34:12,960 James I's solid 15-arch sandstone bridge 500 00:34:12,960 --> 00:34:14,960 is now Grade I listed, 501 00:34:14,960 --> 00:34:19,960 but for over 300 years, it was the main thoroughfare across the river. 502 00:34:27,960 --> 00:34:31,960 The next bridge we're going to pass underneath is the Royal Tweed Bridge 503 00:34:31,960 --> 00:34:38,960 and it was opened by the Prince of Wales, later Edward VIII, in 1928. 504 00:34:38,960 --> 00:34:42,960 It's often thought as being the poor relation of the three bridges 505 00:34:42,960 --> 00:34:44,160 but I think that's a great shame 506 00:34:44,160 --> 00:34:47,960 because I think it's quite a wonderful structure. 507 00:34:48,960 --> 00:34:52,160 The arch we're passing through, the nearest to Berwick, 508 00:34:52,160 --> 00:34:54,960 is the longest of the four arches, 509 00:34:54,960 --> 00:34:57,960 and at the time it held the world record for being the longest 510 00:34:57,960 --> 00:34:59,960 concrete span in the world. 511 00:35:00,960 --> 00:35:05,160 The Royal Tweed Bridge might have been experimental for its time... 512 00:35:08,960 --> 00:35:14,160 ..but nothing could beat the sheer beauty of the Royal Border Bridge. 513 00:35:15,160 --> 00:35:18,160 659 metres long, 514 00:35:18,160 --> 00:35:21,960 trains have been crossing it since 1850, 515 00:35:21,960 --> 00:35:27,160 and even today, it still creates a wonderful sense of awe. 516 00:35:28,160 --> 00:35:31,960 It's one of the greatest pieces of civil engineering 517 00:35:31,960 --> 00:35:34,960 in the railways in Britain, it's that simple. 518 00:35:34,960 --> 00:35:38,160 There's 28 arches in all. 519 00:35:38,160 --> 00:35:41,960 The average height from the river is about 67 metres 520 00:35:41,960 --> 00:35:44,960 and each arch is about 18 metres wide. 521 00:35:46,960 --> 00:35:50,160 Of course, the really weird thing is it's called the Royal Border Bridge. 522 00:35:50,160 --> 00:35:51,960 It's nowhere near the border. 523 00:35:51,960 --> 00:35:54,960 You've got to go another three miles up the road to get to that. 524 00:35:54,960 --> 00:35:57,960 Originally, it was going to be called the Tweed Viaduct, 525 00:35:57,960 --> 00:36:00,960 but as it was opened by Queen Victoria, 526 00:36:00,960 --> 00:36:03,960 that's why it was called the Royal Border Bridge. 527 00:36:03,960 --> 00:36:06,960 And it truly is a thing of wonder. 528 00:36:19,160 --> 00:36:23,160 Back on board Tornado, we're about ready to depart. 529 00:36:24,640 --> 00:36:26,800 I suppose it's like a boy's dream. 530 00:36:26,800 --> 00:36:28,960 I mean, I've been doing it quite a long time now, 531 00:36:28,960 --> 00:36:31,160 so I've got used to it, but it's still an honour 532 00:36:31,160 --> 00:36:33,960 to be able to operate steam in this modern railway. 533 00:36:33,960 --> 00:36:38,960 At full power, Tornado will boil 300 litres of water 534 00:36:38,960 --> 00:36:42,960 and burn over 23 kilos of coal a minute. 535 00:36:42,960 --> 00:36:46,160 And it's Neil the fireman's job to make sure there's always 536 00:36:46,160 --> 00:36:49,960 the right amount of steam, fire and water. 537 00:36:49,960 --> 00:36:53,960 This lever is the throttle and that makes it go or stop. 538 00:36:53,960 --> 00:36:58,960 This is the reverser, which we rotate to put into forward gear. 539 00:36:58,960 --> 00:37:01,160 This is like the first gear of your car, 540 00:37:01,160 --> 00:37:03,960 and as it gets faster, we slowly wind this out, 541 00:37:03,960 --> 00:37:08,160 so it's like a variable gearbox until we're running about 15% 542 00:37:08,160 --> 00:37:11,960 at 75 mile an hour, which means it's running really efficient. 543 00:37:11,960 --> 00:37:13,960 Once you get used to it, straightforward. 544 00:37:13,960 --> 00:37:16,960 One bit that makes it go, one bit that makes it stop - 545 00:37:16,960 --> 00:37:17,960 can't be easier. 546 00:37:17,960 --> 00:37:20,960 So long as he gives me steam, I'll go. 547 00:37:24,480 --> 00:37:28,960 With a full tank of water, Tornado now roars its way north 548 00:37:28,960 --> 00:37:30,960 along the Berwickshire cliffs... 549 00:37:41,960 --> 00:37:43,160 Oh, yes. 550 00:37:44,160 --> 00:37:45,960 Look at this go. 551 00:37:50,960 --> 00:37:54,960 ..and crosses the border into Scotland. 552 00:38:09,160 --> 00:38:11,960 As our journey draws near to Edinburgh... 553 00:38:13,960 --> 00:38:16,960 ..our passengers look back at their morning. 554 00:38:16,960 --> 00:38:20,480 It's been a lovely day out, and it has been a lovely day out. 555 00:38:20,480 --> 00:38:22,960 Really enjoyable, really enjoyable. 556 00:38:22,960 --> 00:38:24,960 Can't fault it one iota. 557 00:38:36,960 --> 00:38:39,000 It's just before 1pm 558 00:38:39,000 --> 00:38:44,960 and Tornado pulls into Platform 20 at Edinburgh Waverley Station. 559 00:38:54,960 --> 00:38:57,960 If you want to leave anything, it's absolutely fine, just on the racks. 560 00:38:57,960 --> 00:38:59,960 OK, good afternoon. 561 00:38:59,960 --> 00:39:03,160 Our passengers have four hours to explore Edinburgh's historic sites 562 00:39:03,160 --> 00:39:05,960 before their return journey to York. 563 00:39:05,960 --> 00:39:07,960 Have a nice afternoon. Thank you. 564 00:39:07,960 --> 00:39:10,960 Thank you. Are you all right, my love? Thank you. 565 00:39:10,960 --> 00:39:12,960 Have a nice afternoon. See you later. 566 00:39:12,960 --> 00:39:14,160 Take care now. 567 00:39:14,160 --> 00:39:17,960 Tourists arriving at Waverley Station is nothing new. 568 00:39:17,960 --> 00:39:20,960 In fact, it was designed for that very purpose. 569 00:39:22,960 --> 00:39:26,960 When it was redeveloped in 1900, it was the largest railway station 570 00:39:26,960 --> 00:39:28,960 in the United Kingdom, 571 00:39:28,960 --> 00:39:32,960 with an enormous 30,000 square metre glass roof. 572 00:39:35,960 --> 00:39:38,960 And the reason for all this grandeur? 573 00:39:39,960 --> 00:39:43,960 The Victorian tourists' enthusiasm for Scotland. 574 00:39:53,960 --> 00:39:55,960 Historian Tom Parnell 575 00:39:55,960 --> 00:39:58,960 shows us what they would have been keen to see. 576 00:39:59,960 --> 00:40:02,960 So it's only at this point that we begin to rise up 577 00:40:02,960 --> 00:40:04,960 out of Waverley Station, 578 00:40:04,960 --> 00:40:07,960 but we begin to understand how low down the station is. 579 00:40:07,960 --> 00:40:11,480 And we see, coming up this ramp, in the same way as Victorian passengers 580 00:40:11,480 --> 00:40:13,960 would have done a 120 years ago, 581 00:40:13,960 --> 00:40:16,960 they come up from the smoke and the steam of the railway, 582 00:40:16,960 --> 00:40:20,160 up into the fresh air, with this amazing panorama of the city 583 00:40:20,160 --> 00:40:22,160 wrapping all the way around us. 584 00:40:24,960 --> 00:40:27,960 And the first stop on their tour of Edinburgh 585 00:40:27,960 --> 00:40:29,960 wasn't far from the station. 586 00:40:32,960 --> 00:40:36,960 So here we are at the Scott Monument in East Princes Street Gardens. 587 00:40:36,960 --> 00:40:41,320 It's a great Gothic rocket rising 200 feet into the sky. 588 00:40:41,320 --> 00:40:43,960 It was built to commemorate Sir Walter Scott, 589 00:40:43,960 --> 00:40:46,960 a great Scottish author who died in 1832. 590 00:40:46,960 --> 00:40:49,960 He's celebrated all around the world for his novels, including, 591 00:40:49,960 --> 00:40:51,960 of course, the Waverley novels. 592 00:40:51,960 --> 00:40:54,960 When it was completed in 1846, it was as much a visitor attraction 593 00:40:54,960 --> 00:40:57,160 for Victorian tourists as it is today. 594 00:41:03,960 --> 00:41:07,960 As Edinburgh grew wealthier during the 18th and 19th centuries, 595 00:41:07,960 --> 00:41:12,960 it decided to rebrand itself as the Athens of the north 596 00:41:12,960 --> 00:41:16,960 and soon thousands of Victorian tourists were flocking 597 00:41:16,960 --> 00:41:21,960 to Calton Hill to admire its stunning classical architecture. 598 00:41:25,960 --> 00:41:27,960 So once you're up on top here on Calton Hill, 599 00:41:27,960 --> 00:41:29,960 you can really understand what appealed 600 00:41:29,960 --> 00:41:31,960 to Victorian visitors to the city. 601 00:41:31,960 --> 00:41:36,960 You have this amazing 360 degree panorama of the entire city 602 00:41:36,960 --> 00:41:39,960 all the way around from Arthur's Seat and Salisbury Crags, 603 00:41:39,960 --> 00:41:42,960 the medieval old town reaching up to Edinburgh Castle 604 00:41:42,960 --> 00:41:44,960 atop the volcanic plug. 605 00:41:44,960 --> 00:41:48,160 And we see the Walter Scott Monument and the new town behind us 606 00:41:48,160 --> 00:41:50,960 and then playing round to the Firth of Forth 607 00:41:50,960 --> 00:41:53,160 and Leith Docks down in the distance. 608 00:41:53,160 --> 00:41:57,160 So, visitors to Edinburgh and the city today still enjoy Calton Hill 609 00:41:57,160 --> 00:41:59,960 for exactly that same reason - enjoying these views 610 00:41:59,960 --> 00:42:02,960 and enjoying these great, great Greek Revival monuments. 611 00:42:06,960 --> 00:42:09,960 That's why I'm so proud to call the city my home. 612 00:42:25,960 --> 00:42:28,960 On our glorious, steam-powered journey 613 00:42:28,960 --> 00:42:31,960 through north-east England to Edinburgh, 614 00:42:31,960 --> 00:42:34,960 we've explored iconic cathedrals... 615 00:42:36,960 --> 00:42:38,960 ..and discovered local traditions. 616 00:42:38,960 --> 00:42:42,960 We've stepped back in time to discover the wonders 617 00:42:42,960 --> 00:42:44,960 that lie beneath the sand... 618 00:42:45,960 --> 00:42:50,160 ..and enjoyed one of Britain's most spectacular coastlines. 619 00:42:52,960 --> 00:42:57,960 And all aboard the legendary locomotive Tornado. 53553

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