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Join us on a journey aboard
the magnificent steam train Tornado
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as we travel along one of Britain's
most beautiful railways...
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ALL: Cheers!
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...to a place with
a spectacular coastline
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and extraordinary engineering.
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Amazing.
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It's one of the greatest pieces
of civil engineering
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in the railways in Britain.
It's that simple.
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An area that survived
a violent past...
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The famous Viking attack of 793
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was probably something akin
to the Twin Towers.
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..and changed the modern world.
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Other railway stations
around the world,
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such as New York Grand Central,
Amsterdam Central,
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followed the template
of Robert Stephenson's idea.
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We'll meet the people who live
and work
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along this very special train line.
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This is no ordinary railway journey.
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This is one of the most scenic
railway journeys in the world -
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north-east England to Edinburgh.
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Our rail adventure today begins
at York Station,
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and waiting for us at platform ten
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is Peppercorn Class A1
Pacific 60163,
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better known as Tornado.
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This massive 22-metre, 169-tonne
steam locomotive
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may look as though it's
from the 1940s,
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but was only completed in 2008.
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Today's journey is
the Edinburgh Flyer,
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and Tornado has been coupled up
with 13 vintage passenger coaches
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for its trip to Scotland's capital.
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No-one knows this trip better than
Rob Tibbetts, the train manager.
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Are you on our Edinburgh train?
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Yeah, we are. Yeah? H would be
towards this end.
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The appearance of an engine,
a majestic machine like this,
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or any steam locomotive,
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always seems to bring out
goodwill in people,
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and they love to look in it
and photograph it,
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listen to it, smell it.
It's always an exciting day.
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Today, Rob and his team
of volunteer stewards
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will be looking
after 200 passengers.
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Right, we're all set to leave,
so we wait now for the guard
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to give the green flag, and then
we'll be under way.
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At 6:27am, Tornado pulls away
from York Station
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to begin its six-and-a-half-hour
journey north.
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Good morning, everybody.
Just checking, everybody settled in
all right?
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Would you like any tea? Yes, please.
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Would you like milk? Yes, please.
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The passengers can now sit back
and enjoy some of the best service
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and scenery in the country.
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Our journey will take us
from York to Edinburgh.
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The first stop is to Darlington, the
birthplace of the modern railway,
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and then on to the cathedral City
of Durham.
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From there, we'll travel
to Newcastle
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before heading up the Northumbrian
coast to Craster,
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Bamburgh and Lindisfarne.
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We then cross the River Tweed
at Berwick-upon-Tweed
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and into Scotland, before completing
our 200-mile journey in Edinburgh.
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There are three classes of travel
on board today,
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ranging from standard to the luxury
Premier Dining Car.
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Buck's Fizz for everybody?
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Oh, yes, please. Yes, thank you.
Yes, yes, please.
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Oh, thank you very much.
Thank you.
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All enjoy. Yeah. Lovely.
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ALL: Cheers!
Thank you very much.
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Expertly preparing the
freshly-cooked breakfasts
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in the tiny kitchen
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are chefs Bobby and Adam.
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We've got some nice rostis, sausage.
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They're going straight under
the grill
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while I just wait for these eggs.
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You're on the train,
it's oscillating everywhere,
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so obviously you need lips,
the plates are there,
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and then it's pretty
dangerous with the eggs,
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but we don't put as much
oil in, so...
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Then we'll serve this straight
to the steward.
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Smoked salmon with scrambled eggs
for you. Lovely, thank you.
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I think it's a good job
to have, really.
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A lot of chefs would love this job.
It's much sought after.
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One of the passengers enjoying
today's trip
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is retired train driver John Scott.
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He knows every inch of this route
through North Yorkshire.
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When we left York, we drove around
the curve at Skelton
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and then we went across
the Vale of York,
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and that is what we train drivers
call the Racetrack,
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because that's where the speed
records for diesel trains
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were set in the 1980s.
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John may have driven diesel trains
for 40 years,
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but steam will always
be his first love.
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The steam locomotive seems
to have a life of its own.
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Not only can you see the steam,
but, of course, you can hear it.
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And of course, the added bonus
is if you open the window,
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then you'll get all the smutch
from the steam as well.
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Tornado can reach speeds of 100mph,
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but today will be travelling mostly
at a more sedate 75.
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I absolutely adore steam travel.
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It's the best, most relaxing way
to see the countryside.
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It's a big family day out, so it's
really lovely to be out together
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and, you know, getting really
well looked after as well,
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so it's a real treat. Yes.
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I had the porridge to start with
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and then the full English with
granary toast. It's been delicious.
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And the Buck's Fizz, not forgetting
the Buck's Fizz! Oh, yes!
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Yes, and the Buck's Fizz, of course.
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An hour after leaving York,
Tornado arrives at Darlington -
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famous for the Stockton
to Darlington Railway
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and the Darlington Locomotive Works,
Tornado's birthplace.
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That's better. Keep going.
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I think we're getting
in this time, yeah.
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I am one of those fortunate people
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who, for the last 20 years, has been
paid to build steam locomotives,
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which has been my hobby
ever since I was an infant.
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Tornado was a labour of love
for David and his team,
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and it took 18 years to design and
build this modern-day steam engine.
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But they're not stopping there
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because David's latest project,
the P2 locomotive,
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is even more ambitious.
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Built between 1934 and 1936,
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the P2s were once the most powerful
passenger locomotives in the UK.
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Nearly all the major parts for this
engine have been made elsewhere.
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But once the parts arrive here,
because we're essentially building
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a prototype, there's no guarantee
that they're going to just go
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straight on to the engine
without further adjustment.
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Eddie's using a dial gauge here.
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How much are we taking off this, Ed?
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Ten 1,000ths of an inch.
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00:07:52,960 --> 00:07:54,960
When steam locomotives were
first introduced,
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they obviously didn't have
the technology or the measuring
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equipment we have today, which makes
it all the more amazing
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00:08:01,960 --> 00:08:04,480
that they managed to produce things,
these locomotives,
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that worked so well.
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As none of the original P2s
have survived,
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David has had to work out every
single component
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with 3D software.
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At the time that the original P2s
were built in Doncaster,
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I believe it's somewhere in
the region of 2,800 people
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worked in the workshops there.
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Well, this technology, we are
building this with probably
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a total of about ten people.
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WHISTLE TOOTS
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Back on board Tornado,
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it's clear David and his team's hard
work was worth it.
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I just love the whole ethos
of the train -
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the sound, the smell,
everything about it.
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It's a wonderful experience.
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We travel on various services
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quite often around the country.
My dad loves steam
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and I love seeing
the engines perform,
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going all over the country, seeing
the different lines they travel on,
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so it's really good, yeah.
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From Darlington, Tornado
powers its way north
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to Durham and Newcastle.
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This stretch here
you really are driving the train
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because they are very...
There are curves along the route
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and you know what you're doing
if you can drive over this route.
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We are now approaching
Durham Station.
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You will see, to our right, the
famous view of Durham Cathedral.
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Thank you.
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Just a half mile from here is one
of the world's greatest cathedrals
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that has stood proud above the city
for almost 1,000 years.
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Built by the Normans, it was
deliberately designed
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on a massive scale to show off their
power and impress the locals.
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The 22-metre high stone
vault ceiling was,
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and still is,
considered extraordinary.
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And by building such a
magnificent cathedral,
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the Normans made it clear that they
were here to stay.
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And not put us to the test,
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but save use from the Evil One.
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Over 900 years later,
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the cathedral is still
a vibrant community.
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And 66 metres above the altar,
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bell major Nathan is preparing
for their weekly rehearsal.
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Welcome to the Durham Cathedral
Bell Tower.
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We've got ten bells in the tower.
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The earliest bell dates from 1693,
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and the heaviest bell that we have,
the tenor bell,
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weighs a tonne and a half.
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And getting ten bells ringing in
harmony takes a lot of practice.
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Yeah, that's, like, our music score,
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but it's patterns
rather than music notes.
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You ring a little bit slower
when you're going up to the right
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and a little bit quicker
when you're going down to the left.
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So you memorise them and then
practise them to get them perfect.
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So, right, we're going to ring
Bob Doubles now, OK?
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Treble is going. And gone.
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BELLS RING
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Our train now heads onwards
to Newcastle's historic station
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and Northumbria's
stunning coastline.
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We're 66 miles into a luxury
steam train journey.
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Pulled by the mighty Tornado,
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our passengers are relishing
some superb service
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as they pass through
north-east England.
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After exploring Durham,
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we head to Newcastle upon Tyne
Central Station
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and then on to the magnificent
Northumbrian coast,
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where we'll stop at the little
fishing village of Craster.
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We boarded at Durham this morning
and that first view of the engine
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as it rounds off the viaduct
into the station
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was absolutely fantastic.
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We've been train enthusiasts
since we were young boys
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and we'd promised ourselves
after I retired
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that we would do some sort of trip.
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This came up,
Stuart lives in Durham.
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Just perfect.
204
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My brother is treating me to
this day out, so very exciting.
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00:13:02,960 --> 00:13:06,960
As Tornado continues to pull
its 13 coaches north,
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our guard today is Stephen Shields,
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00:13:09,960 --> 00:13:12,960
who's spent 40 years working
on the local railways.
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This is a 1960s guard's van,
or brake van,
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whatever you want to call it.
We have no onboard computer.
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Everything is as it was
in the 1960s.
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I've been doing this many, many
years now, and I still get excited
212
00:13:28,160 --> 00:13:32,320
by the whiff of the steam
and the coal.
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00:13:32,320 --> 00:13:34,960
It's a pleasure to come to work.
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They're a living thing and
every one of them is different.
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ANNOUNCER: We are now approaching
Newcastle Central Station.
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If you look out either side
of the train,
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you will see the River Tyne below
and the well-known bridges
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00:13:57,160 --> 00:13:59,960
that link Gateshead and Newcastle.
219
00:14:04,960 --> 00:14:08,960
Most passengers travelling
through Newcastle Central
220
00:14:08,960 --> 00:14:10,960
don't take much notice
of the architecture,
221
00:14:10,960 --> 00:14:14,960
but in the middle of the 19th
century, this massive structure
222
00:14:14,960 --> 00:14:17,800
was simply out of this world.
223
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It's also John's home station.
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Most people in the early 1840s,
1850s, had never travelled
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more than ten miles from where
they lived, so you can imagine
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00:14:31,960 --> 00:14:34,960
somebody travelling from the
countryside who had never seen
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00:14:34,960 --> 00:14:38,960
a railway in their lives
arriving at a place like this.
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00:14:38,960 --> 00:14:41,960
It must have been a magnificent
thing for them.
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00:14:44,160 --> 00:14:48,960
With the railways so new,
local engineer Robert Stephenson
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was keen to make an impact,
and he did just that.
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00:14:54,960 --> 00:14:57,960
Opened by Queen Victoria in 1850,
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the station was a massive
12,000 square metres,
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00:15:01,960 --> 00:15:05,960
with platforms stretching
almost 800 metres long...
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00:15:07,960 --> 00:15:10,160
..with an enormous arched roof
235
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supported by curved
wrought iron ribs.
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00:15:14,960 --> 00:15:18,640
All the other main railway stations
throughout the world,
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such as New York Grand Central,
the Antwerp Station
238
00:15:21,960 --> 00:15:25,960
and Amsterdam Central,
and all those fantastic stations
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followed the template
of Robert Stephenson's idea
240
00:15:29,160 --> 00:15:31,960
of building an iconic
railway station.
241
00:15:31,960 --> 00:15:33,960
And you can see why.
242
00:15:34,960 --> 00:15:39,960
Incredibly, Hadrian's Wall runs
directly underneath the station,
243
00:15:39,960 --> 00:15:42,960
and the locals were keen
not to forget this.
244
00:15:44,160 --> 00:15:47,160
We're now walking up to,
and appropriately named,
245
00:15:47,160 --> 00:15:48,960
the Centurion pub,
246
00:15:48,960 --> 00:15:52,960
which was part of the extension
of 1893,
247
00:15:52,960 --> 00:15:56,000
when the North Eastern Railway
decided to provide
248
00:15:56,000 --> 00:16:00,960
a first class refreshment room
in beautiful tiling.
249
00:16:00,960 --> 00:16:05,960
Now, the strange thing is,
by the time we get to the 1960s,
250
00:16:05,960 --> 00:16:09,960
British Rail decided to cover
it up with plasterboard.
251
00:16:09,960 --> 00:16:13,160
Fortunately, it's now back
into its full glory.
252
00:16:16,960 --> 00:16:21,960
In today's money, it would cost
in excess of ยฃ4.5 million
253
00:16:21,960 --> 00:16:23,960
to build this.
254
00:16:32,960 --> 00:16:36,960
We now leave the powerhouse
of Britain's industrial success
255
00:16:36,960 --> 00:16:38,960
and continue our journey,
256
00:16:38,960 --> 00:16:42,960
but this time into
a very different landscape.
257
00:16:44,160 --> 00:16:48,160
The extraordinary north-east coast.
258
00:16:48,160 --> 00:16:50,960
Every inch hides a bit of history,
259
00:16:50,960 --> 00:16:54,960
from Viking attacks
to its 70 castles.
260
00:16:56,960 --> 00:17:00,960
Tucked away not far from our
railway line is our next stop,
261
00:17:00,960 --> 00:17:04,160
the tiny fishing village of Craster.
262
00:17:04,160 --> 00:17:07,960
A place where time
seems to have stood still
263
00:17:07,960 --> 00:17:10,960
and ancient traditions
still continue.
264
00:17:13,160 --> 00:17:17,960
We're at L. Robson & Sons, Craster.
Traditional fish smokers.
265
00:17:17,960 --> 00:17:21,960
In the 15th, 16th century,
heron would be the staple diet
266
00:17:21,960 --> 00:17:24,800
of the population of Britain
at one time,
267
00:17:24,800 --> 00:17:27,960
because it was readily available
and easy to catch
268
00:17:27,960 --> 00:17:31,160
and there used to be smoke houses
all the way up the coast.
269
00:17:32,960 --> 00:17:37,800
Established over 100 years ago,
L. Robson & Sons
270
00:17:37,800 --> 00:17:41,160
have helped make the Craster
the kipper of choice.
271
00:17:42,160 --> 00:17:47,960
And today, they still produce
between 7,000 to 8,000 a day.
272
00:17:47,960 --> 00:17:50,960
That's over a million a year.
273
00:17:50,960 --> 00:17:53,960
George is now going to put
the herring in the brine.
274
00:17:53,960 --> 00:17:56,800
They're in there for approximately
20 minutes.
275
00:17:56,800 --> 00:18:00,960
And this is quite a crucial,
critical part of the whole process.
276
00:18:00,960 --> 00:18:02,960
You've got to have the right
salt content.
277
00:18:02,960 --> 00:18:04,960
Too salty, nobody wants to eat them,
278
00:18:04,960 --> 00:18:08,960
and not salty enough and they don't
turn out as kippers quite as good.
279
00:18:11,960 --> 00:18:14,960
Well, this is... We're putting
the herring on to tenter sticks.
280
00:18:14,960 --> 00:18:17,960
You've heard the expression
"on tenterhooks",
281
00:18:17,960 --> 00:18:20,960
well, they are the tenterhooks that
they're putting the herring on.
282
00:18:20,960 --> 00:18:23,160
This has never changed
throughout the years.
283
00:18:23,160 --> 00:18:26,960
Only difference is that's stainless
steel instead of wood - the sticks.
284
00:18:26,960 --> 00:18:29,960
But you can see it's a very
labour intensive job.
285
00:18:31,960 --> 00:18:35,960
Neil's great-grandfather began
working here in the 19th century
286
00:18:35,960 --> 00:18:38,960
and would still recognise it today.
287
00:18:40,960 --> 00:18:43,960
We're in one of the smoke houses
that were built in 1856
288
00:18:43,960 --> 00:18:45,960
and there's three like this.
289
00:18:45,960 --> 00:18:48,960
You can see the herring
all hanging up there.
290
00:18:49,960 --> 00:18:52,960
And now they're ready
for the fires to be lit.
291
00:18:52,960 --> 00:18:56,960
What we'll do is we'll light
six little mounds of shavings,
292
00:18:56,960 --> 00:18:59,960
pat them down, put oak sawdust
over the top
293
00:18:59,960 --> 00:19:03,160
and then light them at the back
all the way to the front.
294
00:19:06,960 --> 00:19:11,960
And they'll be in here for about
14, 15 hours before they're ready.
295
00:19:11,960 --> 00:19:14,960
They've come in as herring,
they go out as kippers.
296
00:19:15,960 --> 00:19:19,160
Still people think of this
as like a cathedral full of kippers
297
00:19:19,160 --> 00:19:21,960
with the light shining through.
298
00:19:24,160 --> 00:19:26,960
It always gives me a little buzz
when I see them.
299
00:19:38,960 --> 00:19:43,160
The English romantic painter
JMW Turner once said
300
00:19:43,160 --> 00:19:46,960
that it was the skies of Northumbria
that made him famous.
301
00:19:49,960 --> 00:19:54,960
200 years later, the local landscape
is still a source of inspiration.
302
00:20:00,000 --> 00:20:02,960
For an artists, it's a brilliant
place to live, yeah.
303
00:20:02,960 --> 00:20:05,160
Couldn't wish for anywhere better.
304
00:20:05,160 --> 00:20:08,160
Being in a wheelchair
sets challenges
305
00:20:08,160 --> 00:20:11,960
but, I mean, there's challenges
in life all the time
306
00:20:11,960 --> 00:20:15,960
and it's a matter of trying to
work out how we can overcome them.
307
00:20:16,960 --> 00:20:21,160
Once I'm on terra firma,
I can shuffle across the land,
308
00:20:21,160 --> 00:20:25,960
find the position that I want
to paint from, and away we go.
309
00:20:25,960 --> 00:20:30,960
So, just put the gear that I need
to one side.
310
00:20:33,960 --> 00:20:35,960
Out of the chair...
311
00:20:35,960 --> 00:20:39,960
..and start moving down
to where I need to go.
312
00:20:41,960 --> 00:20:43,480
There you go.
313
00:20:44,960 --> 00:20:46,960
Perfect view.
314
00:20:48,960 --> 00:20:50,960
I think we can start.
315
00:20:51,960 --> 00:20:54,960
This Area of Outstanding
Natural Beauty
316
00:20:54,960 --> 00:20:59,960
was once the largest and most
powerful kingdom in the land.
317
00:20:59,960 --> 00:21:04,960
Now this rugged coastline is home
to countless wildlife.
318
00:21:06,960 --> 00:21:08,160
SQUAWKING
319
00:21:09,160 --> 00:21:12,960
Wow! That's worth coming
down here, for that.
320
00:21:14,960 --> 00:21:16,960
I carry what I can,
321
00:21:16,960 --> 00:21:19,960
but the rocks kind of
give me an easel.
322
00:21:20,960 --> 00:21:23,960
I've got a cushion,
so I'm quite comfortable.
323
00:21:23,960 --> 00:21:26,960
And the perfect viewpoint as well,
where the wheelchair can't go,
324
00:21:26,960 --> 00:21:29,960
but I can, so it gives us a nice...
325
00:21:30,960 --> 00:21:32,960
..different perspective.
326
00:21:41,960 --> 00:21:45,960
I never get bored of painting
the sea because it's a bit...
327
00:21:45,960 --> 00:21:49,960
It's kind of kaleidoscopic - it
constantly evolves and changes.
328
00:21:51,960 --> 00:21:53,960
Painting it is wonderful.
329
00:21:55,960 --> 00:21:57,960
TRAIN WHISTLES
330
00:21:58,960 --> 00:22:02,960
We're now more than four hours
into our journey...
331
00:22:03,960 --> 00:22:08,160
..and as Tornado powers north,
we head towards the surprisingly
332
00:22:08,160 --> 00:22:12,960
cosmopolitan Anglo-Saxon
stronghold of Bamburgh.
333
00:22:23,960 --> 00:22:27,960
We're on board a special,
luxurious train
334
00:22:27,960 --> 00:22:31,160
pulled by the mighty locomotive
Tornado,
335
00:22:31,160 --> 00:22:34,160
and we're heading towards Edinburgh.
336
00:22:35,800 --> 00:22:38,320
Our next port of call
is at Bamburgh,
337
00:22:38,320 --> 00:22:42,960
and then it's only a short distance
to the holy island of Lindisfarne,
338
00:22:42,960 --> 00:22:47,160
before heading to Berwick Upon-Tweed
and passing into Scotland.
339
00:22:47,160 --> 00:22:52,960
From the border, it's just over 50
miles to our destination, Edinburgh.
340
00:22:57,960 --> 00:23:01,960
Something we've always wanted to do
is come on a steam train journey,
341
00:23:01,960 --> 00:23:04,160
a nice long one from York
all the way up to Edinburgh.
342
00:23:04,160 --> 00:23:05,960
Lovely, lovely time.
343
00:23:05,960 --> 00:23:08,960
As our train travels north,
344
00:23:08,960 --> 00:23:13,160
we run for a while alongside
the glorious Northumbrian coastline.
345
00:23:15,160 --> 00:23:20,960
And, as the area was occupied by
the Romans, invaded by the Vikings
346
00:23:20,960 --> 00:23:23,960
and lorded over by the Normans,
347
00:23:23,960 --> 00:23:28,160
it's no wonder this stretch
is packed with castles.
348
00:23:32,160 --> 00:23:36,160
One particularly spectacular
example is Bamburgh,
349
00:23:36,160 --> 00:23:40,960
which has guarded the coastline here
for over 1,400 years.
350
00:23:45,160 --> 00:23:50,160
Today, though, the local sand dunes
are a much more peaceful place.
351
00:23:51,960 --> 00:23:55,160
It's often referred to as
Britain's most scenic golf course
352
00:23:55,160 --> 00:23:57,960
and if you do with 360
and have a look around,
353
00:23:57,960 --> 00:23:59,960
there's just views everywhere.
354
00:23:59,960 --> 00:24:03,160
So even if you're playing badly,
you can still enjoy your day out.
355
00:24:07,160 --> 00:24:10,960
It is not just one of Britain's
most beautiful golf courses
356
00:24:10,960 --> 00:24:14,000
but, as it stands on the very edge
of the North Sea,
357
00:24:14,000 --> 00:24:16,000
one of its most challenging.
358
00:24:17,000 --> 00:24:19,160
Here we go. Right down the middle.
359
00:24:20,960 --> 00:24:24,960
Oh, no! Too much power.
Straight past us.
360
00:24:26,160 --> 00:24:28,960
We think it's a calm day,
most people probably think
361
00:24:28,960 --> 00:24:31,320
it's a hurricane,
but it's just fantastic.
362
00:24:34,960 --> 00:24:38,960
But Bamburgh's sand dunes
are not just home to lost balls.
363
00:24:44,960 --> 00:24:48,960
They hide an incredible history
close to the castle walls,
364
00:24:48,960 --> 00:24:51,960
as archaeologist Graham Young
explains.
365
00:24:53,800 --> 00:24:57,960
Well, we are standing on the edge
of a burial ground
366
00:24:57,960 --> 00:24:59,960
from well over 1,000 years ago
367
00:24:59,960 --> 00:25:03,160
and behind me now, where we see
this beautiful Marram grass
368
00:25:03,160 --> 00:25:06,960
and dune field, would at the time
that the burial ground was in use,
369
00:25:06,960 --> 00:25:09,960
would have been a tidal beach,
so a very different landscape.
370
00:25:10,960 --> 00:25:15,960
Over the years, sand gradually
covered the Anglo-Saxon graves
371
00:25:15,960 --> 00:25:19,160
and, from the 14th century,
they were hidden from view.
372
00:25:20,960 --> 00:25:24,960
There was a great storm event
in the winter of 1817
373
00:25:24,960 --> 00:25:26,480
and the sand was blown away
374
00:25:26,480 --> 00:25:29,960
and burials outlined in stone
were exposed.
375
00:25:29,960 --> 00:25:32,960
And this was the first time anyone
had seen the burial ground,
376
00:25:32,960 --> 00:25:34,960
probably since the Middle Ages.
377
00:25:34,960 --> 00:25:37,960
We can't actually see the cemetery
itself now.
378
00:25:37,960 --> 00:25:40,960
It's gone back to looking
something like a picnic area.
379
00:25:40,960 --> 00:25:44,960
But the burials that were lifted
and undertake scientific study,
380
00:25:44,960 --> 00:25:47,160
we did re-bury within St Aidan's
within the village,
381
00:25:47,160 --> 00:25:49,960
so we can go and have a visit of
the burials in their crypt now.
382
00:25:51,960 --> 00:25:56,960
The Reverend Louise Taylor-Kenyon
is the new vicar of St Aidan's
383
00:25:56,960 --> 00:26:00,960
and wasn't here when over
100 Anglo-Saxon skeletons
384
00:26:00,960 --> 00:26:03,160
were laid to rest inside her church.
385
00:26:05,960 --> 00:26:08,960
What can you tell me
about these people here?
386
00:26:08,960 --> 00:26:13,160
Well, we know the cemetery itself
contains whole family groups.
387
00:26:13,160 --> 00:26:16,960
We have every age from neonates,
basically a new baby,
388
00:26:16,960 --> 00:26:19,160
right through to
quite elderly people.
389
00:26:22,960 --> 00:26:25,960
Most of St Aidan's was built
in the late 12th century,
390
00:26:25,960 --> 00:26:30,160
but there's been a church on
this site since St Aidan himself
391
00:26:30,160 --> 00:26:33,960
lived here in 635 AD.
392
00:26:35,960 --> 00:26:39,640
When we have a 7th century knife
and a radiocarbon date
393
00:26:39,640 --> 00:26:42,960
that extends from the 6th century
to the mid 7th century,
394
00:26:42,960 --> 00:26:45,960
we know that that individual
has almost certainly died
395
00:26:45,960 --> 00:26:47,960
in the age of St Aidan.
Which is incredible.
396
00:26:47,960 --> 00:26:51,160
So what you're saying is here,
underneath the church at St Aidan's,
397
00:26:51,160 --> 00:26:54,960
we've got the actual bones of people
who would have been alive
398
00:26:54,960 --> 00:26:57,960
and would have known him - actually
lived in the same place as him. Yes.
399
00:26:57,960 --> 00:27:01,960
One of the surprising elements from
the results of the isotope data,
400
00:27:01,960 --> 00:27:04,960
which gives us indication
of where people grew up,
401
00:27:04,960 --> 00:27:07,960
is I think of all the burials that
we have here that we got data from,
402
00:27:07,960 --> 00:27:10,960
about eight were locals
from this part of Northumberland
403
00:27:10,960 --> 00:27:13,960
and everyone else came from
somewhere else in the British Isles
404
00:27:13,960 --> 00:27:15,960
or even from abroad.
405
00:27:15,960 --> 00:27:17,960
Many came from Scotland and Ireland,
406
00:27:17,960 --> 00:27:22,160
but, surprisingly, some clearly
came from much hotter climates.
407
00:27:24,960 --> 00:27:28,160
The only connection between
the Mediterranean world
408
00:27:28,160 --> 00:27:31,960
and early medieval Northumbria
that makes any sense
409
00:27:31,960 --> 00:27:34,160
is the Christian Church,
so we're looking at people
410
00:27:34,160 --> 00:27:36,960
who've travelled from the far
reaches of Christendom.
411
00:27:36,960 --> 00:27:39,480
That is quite extraordinary,
isn't it?
412
00:27:42,640 --> 00:27:44,160
TRAIN WHISTLES
413
00:27:45,960 --> 00:27:49,800
This is my first mainline trip
on a steam train.
414
00:27:49,800 --> 00:27:52,960
I have been to many
heritage railways before,
415
00:27:52,960 --> 00:27:54,000
but never on the mainline.
416
00:27:54,000 --> 00:27:56,160
It's really, really good.
417
00:27:57,160 --> 00:28:00,160
It's only ten miles
until our next stop,
418
00:28:00,160 --> 00:28:03,160
which you can just glimpse
from the train -
419
00:28:03,160 --> 00:28:06,960
an extraordinary island
on the horizon.
420
00:28:12,960 --> 00:28:15,960
Lindisfarne is a bewitching place.
421
00:28:15,960 --> 00:28:18,960
A tidal island
that's cut-off every day.
422
00:28:18,960 --> 00:28:22,960
It's as rich in wildlife
as it is in history.
423
00:28:23,960 --> 00:28:27,960
It may be tiny, but as it was
the home of both St Aidan
424
00:28:27,960 --> 00:28:32,960
and St Cuthbert, its reputation
as the cradle of Christianity
425
00:28:32,960 --> 00:28:35,960
in north-east England was enormous
426
00:28:35,960 --> 00:28:39,960
and one that ultimately led
to its destruction.
427
00:28:42,960 --> 00:28:46,960
Back in the 7th century, it was the
epicentre of Celtic Christianity,
428
00:28:46,960 --> 00:28:50,160
and it was so important that it
became a target for the Vikings,
429
00:28:50,160 --> 00:28:51,960
who came here to raid it.
430
00:28:51,960 --> 00:28:55,960
And, in fact, the famous
Viking attack of 793
431
00:28:55,960 --> 00:28:58,960
was probably something akin
to the Twin Towers,
432
00:28:58,960 --> 00:29:01,960
as this was an extremely important
area for Christianity.
433
00:29:01,960 --> 00:29:03,960
It's unlikely the Vikings
chose it by accident.
434
00:29:03,960 --> 00:29:06,960
It was there to send a message
that they were on their way.
435
00:29:11,160 --> 00:29:14,160
The Vikings weren't the last
to attack the island,
436
00:29:14,160 --> 00:29:18,960
and by the 17th century,
the priory had fallen into ruin.
437
00:29:19,960 --> 00:29:23,960
But even today, thousands still
follow the wooden pilgrim poles
438
00:29:23,960 --> 00:29:27,160
across from the mainland
to the island each year,
439
00:29:27,160 --> 00:29:29,960
maintaining Lindisfarne's reputation
440
00:29:29,960 --> 00:29:33,960
as one of the UK's holiest
destinations.
441
00:29:34,960 --> 00:29:37,960
We've been here for about
two-and-a-half years
442
00:29:37,960 --> 00:29:39,960
and we absolutely love it.
443
00:29:39,960 --> 00:29:42,160
We're a really small island,
150 people,
444
00:29:42,160 --> 00:29:44,960
but about 700,000, 800,000 visitors
445
00:29:44,960 --> 00:29:47,960
and tourists and pilgrims
every year.
446
00:29:47,960 --> 00:29:50,320
So that's quite a contrast, really,
447
00:29:50,320 --> 00:29:53,960
but so fortunate to live
in this beautiful place.
448
00:29:54,960 --> 00:29:56,960
Come on, let's go.
449
00:29:56,960 --> 00:29:59,960
Let's go to the beach.
There we go.
450
00:30:02,960 --> 00:30:05,960
When I'm walking this way,
it's like I really feel
451
00:30:05,960 --> 00:30:08,960
I'm in the footsteps of St Aidan,
St Cuthbert
452
00:30:08,960 --> 00:30:12,160
and Eadfrith, who wrote
the Lindisfarne Gospels here,
453
00:30:12,160 --> 00:30:18,160
and all the other monks way back
in the 7th, 8th, 9th centuries.
454
00:30:31,960 --> 00:30:34,160
This is a real liminal place.
455
00:30:34,160 --> 00:30:37,960
A thin place where the distance
between Earth and heaven
456
00:30:37,960 --> 00:30:40,160
is smaller than other places.
457
00:30:42,960 --> 00:30:45,960
So, here we are. These are
the famous pilgrims' polls.
458
00:30:45,960 --> 00:30:49,960
And you can see they go all the way
across to the mainland.
459
00:30:49,960 --> 00:30:53,960
It's traditional for pilgrims
to take their shoes off
460
00:30:53,960 --> 00:30:55,960
and to walk barefoot
across the sands.
461
00:30:55,960 --> 00:30:58,960
But also, there's something
about walking on holy ground
462
00:30:58,960 --> 00:31:03,960
with your bare feet, so it's a
special and important thing to do.
463
00:31:05,960 --> 00:31:08,960
We can't walk the whole polls now,
the tide is coming in,
464
00:31:08,960 --> 00:31:11,960
but I'm going to take my
shoes and socks off here
465
00:31:11,960 --> 00:31:14,960
and walk the remainder of the polls
as a pilgrim, barefoot.
466
00:31:18,640 --> 00:31:24,960
Walking barefoot on holy ground
is a really intensely beautiful
467
00:31:24,960 --> 00:31:28,960
and spiritual and physical
thing to do, really.
468
00:31:28,960 --> 00:31:33,160
We're connected with God's Earth,
God's sand, as we do it.
469
00:31:35,960 --> 00:31:39,960
And it's incredible looking
at the sea pinks and the flora
470
00:31:39,960 --> 00:31:42,960
and the samphire
all around here as well,
471
00:31:42,960 --> 00:31:46,960
which is all exposed
when the tide is down.
472
00:31:49,160 --> 00:31:53,960
It's a really special, peaceful,
spiritual, beautiful place.
473
00:32:01,960 --> 00:32:03,160
TRAIN WHISTLES
474
00:32:05,960 --> 00:32:08,960
Four-and-a-half hours
after leaving York,
475
00:32:08,960 --> 00:32:12,960
Tornado is now steaming its way
along the north-east coast
476
00:32:12,960 --> 00:32:17,960
towards England's most northern
town - Berwick Upon-Tweed,
477
00:32:17,960 --> 00:32:22,960
where we cross the magnificent
Royal Border Bridge.
478
00:32:23,960 --> 00:32:25,960
Amazing.
479
00:32:26,960 --> 00:32:28,960
What a view we've got.
480
00:32:28,960 --> 00:32:31,960
It's fabulous.
And they keep going out to sea.
481
00:32:44,960 --> 00:32:46,960
TRAIN WHISTLES
482
00:32:50,960 --> 00:32:55,960
We're on board the Edinburgh Flyer,
pulled by the mighty Tornado,
483
00:32:55,960 --> 00:32:58,960
as it powers up
the north-east of England.
484
00:33:01,960 --> 00:33:05,960
Our train has just crossed
the towering Royal Border Bridge
485
00:33:05,960 --> 00:33:10,160
and will now stop to take on water
at Berwick Upon-Tweed.
486
00:33:19,960 --> 00:33:21,960
Good afternoon, David.
487
00:33:23,960 --> 00:33:25,160
Let go.
488
00:33:25,160 --> 00:33:28,960
As Berwick is such an important
crossing point,
489
00:33:28,960 --> 00:33:30,960
its bridges are world-famous...
490
00:33:31,960 --> 00:33:36,160
..and a lifelong passion
for local historian Jim Herbert.
491
00:33:38,160 --> 00:33:42,160
James VI of Scotland became
James I of England in 1603.
492
00:33:42,160 --> 00:33:46,960
On his journey down to London,
he came through Berwick first,
493
00:33:46,960 --> 00:33:51,160
and he had to cross this rickety
old wooden bridge built in 1478
494
00:33:51,160 --> 00:33:54,960
that had been badly damaged
by ice floes,
495
00:33:54,960 --> 00:33:58,960
and it's said he was so afraid
for his life that he commanded
496
00:33:58,960 --> 00:34:01,960
a new bridge for Berwick
be built out of stone
497
00:34:01,960 --> 00:34:05,960
as a symbol of his
Union of the Kingdoms.
498
00:34:05,960 --> 00:34:07,960
And it's still here today.
499
00:34:08,960 --> 00:34:12,960
James I's solid 15-arch
sandstone bridge
500
00:34:12,960 --> 00:34:14,960
is now Grade I listed,
501
00:34:14,960 --> 00:34:19,960
but for over 300 years, it was the
main thoroughfare across the river.
502
00:34:27,960 --> 00:34:31,960
The next bridge we're going to pass
underneath is the Royal Tweed Bridge
503
00:34:31,960 --> 00:34:38,960
and it was opened by the Prince of
Wales, later Edward VIII, in 1928.
504
00:34:38,960 --> 00:34:42,960
It's often thought as being the poor
relation of the three bridges
505
00:34:42,960 --> 00:34:44,160
but I think that's a great shame
506
00:34:44,160 --> 00:34:47,960
because I think it's quite
a wonderful structure.
507
00:34:48,960 --> 00:34:52,160
The arch we're passing through,
the nearest to Berwick,
508
00:34:52,160 --> 00:34:54,960
is the longest of the four arches,
509
00:34:54,960 --> 00:34:57,960
and at the time it held the world
record for being the longest
510
00:34:57,960 --> 00:34:59,960
concrete span in the world.
511
00:35:00,960 --> 00:35:05,160
The Royal Tweed Bridge might have
been experimental for its time...
512
00:35:08,960 --> 00:35:14,160
..but nothing could beat the sheer
beauty of the Royal Border Bridge.
513
00:35:15,160 --> 00:35:18,160
659 metres long,
514
00:35:18,160 --> 00:35:21,960
trains have been crossing it
since 1850,
515
00:35:21,960 --> 00:35:27,160
and even today, it still creates
a wonderful sense of awe.
516
00:35:28,160 --> 00:35:31,960
It's one of the greatest pieces
of civil engineering
517
00:35:31,960 --> 00:35:34,960
in the railways in Britain,
it's that simple.
518
00:35:34,960 --> 00:35:38,160
There's 28 arches in all.
519
00:35:38,160 --> 00:35:41,960
The average height from the river
is about 67 metres
520
00:35:41,960 --> 00:35:44,960
and each arch
is about 18 metres wide.
521
00:35:46,960 --> 00:35:50,160
Of course, the really weird thing is
it's called the Royal Border Bridge.
522
00:35:50,160 --> 00:35:51,960
It's nowhere near the border.
523
00:35:51,960 --> 00:35:54,960
You've got to go another three miles
up the road to get to that.
524
00:35:54,960 --> 00:35:57,960
Originally, it was going to
be called the Tweed Viaduct,
525
00:35:57,960 --> 00:36:00,960
but as it was opened
by Queen Victoria,
526
00:36:00,960 --> 00:36:03,960
that's why it was called
the Royal Border Bridge.
527
00:36:03,960 --> 00:36:06,960
And it truly is a thing of wonder.
528
00:36:19,160 --> 00:36:23,160
Back on board Tornado,
we're about ready to depart.
529
00:36:24,640 --> 00:36:26,800
I suppose it's like a boy's dream.
530
00:36:26,800 --> 00:36:28,960
I mean, I've been doing it
quite a long time now,
531
00:36:28,960 --> 00:36:31,160
so I've got used to it,
but it's still an honour
532
00:36:31,160 --> 00:36:33,960
to be able to operate steam
in this modern railway.
533
00:36:33,960 --> 00:36:38,960
At full power, Tornado will boil
300 litres of water
534
00:36:38,960 --> 00:36:42,960
and burn over 23 kilos of coal
a minute.
535
00:36:42,960 --> 00:36:46,160
And it's Neil the fireman's job
to make sure there's always
536
00:36:46,160 --> 00:36:49,960
the right amount of steam,
fire and water.
537
00:36:49,960 --> 00:36:53,960
This lever is the throttle
and that makes it go or stop.
538
00:36:53,960 --> 00:36:58,960
This is the reverser, which we
rotate to put into forward gear.
539
00:36:58,960 --> 00:37:01,160
This is like the first gear
of your car,
540
00:37:01,160 --> 00:37:03,960
and as it gets faster,
we slowly wind this out,
541
00:37:03,960 --> 00:37:08,160
so it's like a variable gearbox
until we're running about 15%
542
00:37:08,160 --> 00:37:11,960
at 75 mile an hour, which means
it's running really efficient.
543
00:37:11,960 --> 00:37:13,960
Once you get used to it,
straightforward.
544
00:37:13,960 --> 00:37:16,960
One bit that makes it go,
one bit that makes it stop -
545
00:37:16,960 --> 00:37:17,960
can't be easier.
546
00:37:17,960 --> 00:37:20,960
So long as he gives me steam,
I'll go.
547
00:37:24,480 --> 00:37:28,960
With a full tank of water,
Tornado now roars its way north
548
00:37:28,960 --> 00:37:30,960
along the Berwickshire cliffs...
549
00:37:41,960 --> 00:37:43,160
Oh, yes.
550
00:37:44,160 --> 00:37:45,960
Look at this go.
551
00:37:50,960 --> 00:37:54,960
..and crosses the border
into Scotland.
552
00:38:09,160 --> 00:38:11,960
As our journey draws
near to Edinburgh...
553
00:38:13,960 --> 00:38:16,960
..our passengers look back
at their morning.
554
00:38:16,960 --> 00:38:20,480
It's been a lovely day out,
and it has been a lovely day out.
555
00:38:20,480 --> 00:38:22,960
Really enjoyable, really enjoyable.
556
00:38:22,960 --> 00:38:24,960
Can't fault it one iota.
557
00:38:36,960 --> 00:38:39,000
It's just before 1pm
558
00:38:39,000 --> 00:38:44,960
and Tornado pulls into Platform 20
at Edinburgh Waverley Station.
559
00:38:54,960 --> 00:38:57,960
If you want to leave anything, it's
absolutely fine, just on the racks.
560
00:38:57,960 --> 00:38:59,960
OK, good afternoon.
561
00:38:59,960 --> 00:39:03,160
Our passengers have four hours to
explore Edinburgh's historic sites
562
00:39:03,160 --> 00:39:05,960
before their return journey to York.
563
00:39:05,960 --> 00:39:07,960
Have a nice afternoon. Thank you.
564
00:39:07,960 --> 00:39:10,960
Thank you. Are you all right,
my love? Thank you.
565
00:39:10,960 --> 00:39:12,960
Have a nice afternoon.
See you later.
566
00:39:12,960 --> 00:39:14,160
Take care now.
567
00:39:14,160 --> 00:39:17,960
Tourists arriving at Waverley
Station is nothing new.
568
00:39:17,960 --> 00:39:20,960
In fact, it was designed
for that very purpose.
569
00:39:22,960 --> 00:39:26,960
When it was redeveloped in 1900,
it was the largest railway station
570
00:39:26,960 --> 00:39:28,960
in the United Kingdom,
571
00:39:28,960 --> 00:39:32,960
with an enormous 30,000
square metre glass roof.
572
00:39:35,960 --> 00:39:38,960
And the reason
for all this grandeur?
573
00:39:39,960 --> 00:39:43,960
The Victorian tourists'
enthusiasm for Scotland.
574
00:39:53,960 --> 00:39:55,960
Historian Tom Parnell
575
00:39:55,960 --> 00:39:58,960
shows us what they would
have been keen to see.
576
00:39:59,960 --> 00:40:02,960
So it's only at this point
that we begin to rise up
577
00:40:02,960 --> 00:40:04,960
out of Waverley Station,
578
00:40:04,960 --> 00:40:07,960
but we begin to understand
how low down the station is.
579
00:40:07,960 --> 00:40:11,480
And we see, coming up this ramp, in
the same way as Victorian passengers
580
00:40:11,480 --> 00:40:13,960
would have done a 120 years ago,
581
00:40:13,960 --> 00:40:16,960
they come up from the smoke
and the steam of the railway,
582
00:40:16,960 --> 00:40:20,160
up into the fresh air, with this
amazing panorama of the city
583
00:40:20,160 --> 00:40:22,160
wrapping all the way around us.
584
00:40:24,960 --> 00:40:27,960
And the first stop on
their tour of Edinburgh
585
00:40:27,960 --> 00:40:29,960
wasn't far from the station.
586
00:40:32,960 --> 00:40:36,960
So here we are at the Scott Monument
in East Princes Street Gardens.
587
00:40:36,960 --> 00:40:41,320
It's a great Gothic rocket
rising 200 feet into the sky.
588
00:40:41,320 --> 00:40:43,960
It was built to commemorate
Sir Walter Scott,
589
00:40:43,960 --> 00:40:46,960
a great Scottish author
who died in 1832.
590
00:40:46,960 --> 00:40:49,960
He's celebrated all around the world
for his novels, including,
591
00:40:49,960 --> 00:40:51,960
of course, the Waverley novels.
592
00:40:51,960 --> 00:40:54,960
When it was completed in 1846,
it was as much a visitor attraction
593
00:40:54,960 --> 00:40:57,160
for Victorian tourists
as it is today.
594
00:41:03,960 --> 00:41:07,960
As Edinburgh grew wealthier during
the 18th and 19th centuries,
595
00:41:07,960 --> 00:41:12,960
it decided to rebrand itself
as the Athens of the north
596
00:41:12,960 --> 00:41:16,960
and soon thousands of Victorian
tourists were flocking
597
00:41:16,960 --> 00:41:21,960
to Calton Hill to admire its
stunning classical architecture.
598
00:41:25,960 --> 00:41:27,960
So once you're up on top here
on Calton Hill,
599
00:41:27,960 --> 00:41:29,960
you can really understand
what appealed
600
00:41:29,960 --> 00:41:31,960
to Victorian visitors to the city.
601
00:41:31,960 --> 00:41:36,960
You have this amazing 360 degree
panorama of the entire city
602
00:41:36,960 --> 00:41:39,960
all the way around from
Arthur's Seat and Salisbury Crags,
603
00:41:39,960 --> 00:41:42,960
the medieval old town reaching up
to Edinburgh Castle
604
00:41:42,960 --> 00:41:44,960
atop the volcanic plug.
605
00:41:44,960 --> 00:41:48,160
And we see the Walter Scott Monument
and the new town behind us
606
00:41:48,160 --> 00:41:50,960
and then playing round
to the Firth of Forth
607
00:41:50,960 --> 00:41:53,160
and Leith Docks
down in the distance.
608
00:41:53,160 --> 00:41:57,160
So, visitors to Edinburgh and the
city today still enjoy Calton Hill
609
00:41:57,160 --> 00:41:59,960
for exactly that same reason -
enjoying these views
610
00:41:59,960 --> 00:42:02,960
and enjoying these great, great
Greek Revival monuments.
611
00:42:06,960 --> 00:42:09,960
That's why I'm so proud
to call the city my home.
612
00:42:25,960 --> 00:42:28,960
On our glorious,
steam-powered journey
613
00:42:28,960 --> 00:42:31,960
through north-east England
to Edinburgh,
614
00:42:31,960 --> 00:42:34,960
we've explored iconic cathedrals...
615
00:42:36,960 --> 00:42:38,960
..and discovered local traditions.
616
00:42:38,960 --> 00:42:42,960
We've stepped back in time
to discover the wonders
617
00:42:42,960 --> 00:42:44,960
that lie beneath the sand...
618
00:42:45,960 --> 00:42:50,160
..and enjoyed one of Britain's
most spectacular coastlines.
619
00:42:52,960 --> 00:42:57,960
And all aboard the legendary
locomotive Tornado.
53553
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