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Escape with us on a remarkable
railway to the far tip of Scotland.
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00:00:08,640 --> 00:00:10,960
We'll travel along coasts and to
castles.
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00:00:11,960 --> 00:00:15,960
Exploring the remote corners of this
beautiful country.
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00:00:16,960 --> 00:00:18,960
The colours are so dynamic.
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00:00:18,960 --> 00:00:21,320
It just makes a beautiful picture.
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00:00:21,960 --> 00:00:25,960
On a railway line that explores
Scotland's wild side.
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00:00:25,960 --> 00:00:28,960
We're just, piece by piece, putting
it back together.
8
00:00:29,960 --> 00:00:31,960
Its extraordinary landscapes.
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00:00:32,960 --> 00:00:36,960
It's pretty amazing that that's what
everything around us is built upon.
10
00:00:39,960 --> 00:00:42,960
And a place with a tragic past.
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They thought that what was happening
to them...
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00:00:46,000 --> 00:00:47,960
..was punishment from God.
13
00:00:48,960 --> 00:00:52,960
We'll meet the people who work and
live along this special line.
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It's stunning. You have to be here
to experience it.
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00:00:58,480 --> 00:01:02,640
And get to see the wild and rugged
Scottish Highlands along the way.
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00:01:06,480 --> 00:01:08,960
This is no ordinary railway
journey.
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00:01:10,960 --> 00:01:14,960
This is one of the most scenic
train journeys in the world.
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The Far North Line, Scotland.
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00:01:30,960 --> 00:01:32,960
Historic Inverness.
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Sitting by the great River Ness.
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It is the capital of the Highlands.
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And where our journey is about to
begin.
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We're about to embark on a trip on
the Far North Line.
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Britain's most northerly railway.
25
00:02:08,960 --> 00:02:13,960
Our train is a Scotrail Class 158
diesel multiple-unit.
26
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It leaves Inverness at 10:41 on its
167 mile journey.
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00:02:23,000 --> 00:02:27,960
From Inverness, we skirt the shores
of the Beauly Firth to Beauly.
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Before heading north to Dornoch
Firth where we'll alight at Ardgay.
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The Far North Line then loops inland
to Rogart
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00:02:39,960 --> 00:02:42,320
before again heading to the coast to
Golspie.
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We continue north past Helmsdale
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to the vast expanse of The Flow
Country.
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Stop at Forsinard and then on to
Thurso.
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After 4-and-a-half hours, we'll
reach our destination,
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the historic town of Wick.
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Surprisingly this line was built in
several stages between 1862 and
1874.
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00:03:21,480 --> 00:03:25,960
This was due to the many private
estates that then owned the
Highlands.
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00:03:27,960 --> 00:03:30,960
John has worked for Scotrail for 26
years.
39
00:03:31,960 --> 00:03:34,960
And knows the line and its history
intimately.
40
00:03:35,960 --> 00:03:40,480
This was a railway built primarily
for freights promoted by landowner
interest.
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00:03:41,320 --> 00:03:43,000
Being a landowner in these parts
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wasn't necessarily a route to
prosperity.
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And certainly no use unless you
could
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sell your products and these might
range from
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cattle, to myrrh, whiskey,
flagstones.
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00:03:54,960 --> 00:04:00,160
As the private estates stretched
across large swathes of coasts and
countryside,
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00:04:00,960 --> 00:04:02,960
they demanded the railway did the
same.
48
00:04:03,960 --> 00:04:05,960
Creating a unique and varied route.
49
00:04:06,960 --> 00:04:10,960
I think its the alternation of
coastal and inland scenery,
50
00:04:10,960 --> 00:04:12,960
which is the special magic of this
line.
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00:04:13,960 --> 00:04:19,160
These great slices of coastal
scenery interrupted by dashes
inland.
52
00:04:24,960 --> 00:04:27,960
Our train now tracks along the
Beauly Firth.
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00:04:28,320 --> 00:04:32,320
It is fed by two rivers, the Ness
and the Beauly.
54
00:04:32,960 --> 00:04:35,960
And was once the site of an ancient
glacier.
55
00:04:37,960 --> 00:04:40,960
The scenery is absolutely beautiful
in Scotland.
56
00:04:41,960 --> 00:04:43,960
Because of the colour of the gorses,
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the mountains, the lochs, the
rivers.
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00:04:47,960 --> 00:04:52,320
It's just absolutely awesome, no
matter what time of the year you
come.
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00:04:55,960 --> 00:04:59,960
After just 15 minutes, our train
arrives at our first stop.
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00:05:01,960 --> 00:05:02,960
Beauly.
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00:05:03,960 --> 00:05:08,960
There is no finer place to come to
find one of Scotland's
quintessential tailors.
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An emporium of authentic tweed that
has been in business for over 160
years.
63
00:05:15,960 --> 00:05:17,960
We're known as the Highland tweed
house.
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00:05:17,960 --> 00:05:20,960
And these shelves here have been
stocked with these beautiful
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00:05:20,960 --> 00:05:23,960
bolts of tweed ever since we were
founded in 1858.
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00:05:25,960 --> 00:05:28,640
Making a tailored suit is a work of
art.
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From choosing the cloth, laying out
the pattern on the tweed,
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00:05:33,960 --> 00:05:38,960
to cutting various pieces out before
they are sewn together.
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00:05:40,320 --> 00:05:43,960
There's a real sort of theatre and
drama to it.
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00:05:43,960 --> 00:05:47,960
Real passion for craftmanship and
a great attention to detail.
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00:05:49,000 --> 00:05:51,960
Many of the distinctive tweed
patterns
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are inspired by the earthy colours
of the Scottish countryside.
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Tweeds typically were a camouflage
to be worn on the land for fields.
74
00:06:03,960 --> 00:06:07,960
You would tend to find that the
estate tweeds embody colours
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00:06:07,960 --> 00:06:11,640
that are prevalent on those pieces
of land.
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00:06:11,960 --> 00:06:18,960
You know, you might see the purples
of heather, the yellows of gorse,
the browns of bracken.
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It's only a short walk to the
Beauly, one of the countries best
salmon fishing rivers.
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00:06:32,000 --> 00:06:34,960
Set in the beautiful Highland
scenery,
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00:06:34,960 --> 00:06:39,960
you can understand why Beauly in
French means "The beautiful place".
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00:06:42,160 --> 00:06:49,960
Today, Peter and his dog are walking
upstream in search of the perfect
pool to catch some fish.
81
00:06:52,960 --> 00:06:54,960
So we're out on this beautiful bit
of river today,
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to see if we can find one of those
elusive summer salmon.
83
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Come to hell. Good girl.
84
00:07:02,960 --> 00:07:03,960
Sit.
85
00:07:06,960 --> 00:07:09,960
We've got a bit of a swirly wind and
trees behind us.
86
00:07:10,960 --> 00:07:13,160
I'm going to use a single spey cast
today.
87
00:07:13,960 --> 00:07:18,000
A spey cast is about keeping the fly
in front of you.
88
00:07:18,480 --> 00:07:19,960
It never goes behind you,
89
00:07:20,960 --> 00:07:26,960
The salmon are born upstream in the
two tributaries that feed the Beauly
river.
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00:07:26,960 --> 00:07:32,960
When four to five inches long, they
migrate down to the sea where they
mature.
91
00:07:33,960 --> 00:07:36,960
Before they return to their
birthplace to spawn.
92
00:07:38,960 --> 00:07:42,960
In salmon fishing, one of the key
things is knowing where the fish
are.
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They're not evenly distributed
through the river.
94
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Salmon sometimes rest on the
riverbed,
95
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which is known as a lie.
96
00:07:51,960 --> 00:07:54,960
I want to cover a lie on the far
side where there's a stone.
97
00:07:55,160 --> 00:07:57,000
I'm having to use a fairly long
line.
98
00:07:57,960 --> 00:08:00,960
And fishing a shooting head to try
and get a decent line out.
99
00:08:01,960 --> 00:08:04,480
So make a loop and out it goes.
100
00:08:04,960 --> 00:08:07,480
Then, patience is the key.
101
00:08:08,160 --> 00:08:11,960
A lot of the time you're not going
to catch a salmon. A salmon's a
bonus.
102
00:08:12,960 --> 00:08:16,800
Today, it's really bright and salmon
don't have any eyelids.
103
00:08:16,960 --> 00:08:20,960
So when they're looking up to see
the fly, they can't see it against
the bright sun.
104
00:08:21,160 --> 00:08:23,960
That's making fishing very
challenging today.
105
00:08:24,160 --> 00:08:27,960
So I'm going to let the dog have a
swim through the pool, wake them up.
106
00:08:29,960 --> 00:08:33,960
Doesn't seem to do any harm, it's an
old gullies trick, might be worth a
try.
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The river connects you to nature
more than anything else.
108
00:08:46,480 --> 00:08:49,640
But there's no doubt it can connect
you to yourself as well.
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I always put fish back these days.
110
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Letting them breed and making more
salmon.
111
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It's a fish.
112
00:09:02,960 --> 00:09:06,960
Bloody hell, after casting at the
same spot all that time.
113
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That was a salmon.
114
00:09:10,960 --> 00:09:11,960
Well, well.
115
00:09:15,000 --> 00:09:18,960
As we leave Peter to the absolute
joys of fishing,
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00:09:19,320 --> 00:09:22,160
we continue north to Dornoch Firth.
117
00:09:23,960 --> 00:09:28,480
We'll explore more of the
Highland's finest landscapes.
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00:09:37,960 --> 00:09:41,960
We're about 44 miles into a new
Scottish train journey.
119
00:09:41,960 --> 00:09:47,960
Travelling on the Far North Line to
the extraordinary coastline of
Caithness.
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00:09:48,800 --> 00:09:52,480
Whatever your reason to visit this
land of mountain, moor and loch,
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the train is just the beginning.
122
00:09:56,960 --> 00:10:00,640
It's always the start of an
adventure when you go far from home.
123
00:10:00,640 --> 00:10:04,800
Especially by yourself. And I think
that's what makes this trip special
for me.
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00:10:05,960 --> 00:10:09,960
After Beauly, our train heads north
to Tain.
125
00:10:10,960 --> 00:10:13,160
And tracks along the edges of
Dornoch Firth.
126
00:10:14,800 --> 00:10:18,960
Until Ardgay where we'll stop to
explore the wilds of Alladale
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00:10:18,960 --> 00:10:21,320
and nearby Croick church.
128
00:10:22,800 --> 00:10:27,960
We'll then travel inland to Rogart
before returning to the coast at
Golspie.
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00:10:28,960 --> 00:10:31,320
And the magnificent Dunrobin castle.
130
00:10:37,960 --> 00:10:42,960
There are parallels with New Zealand
and Switzerland and places like
that.
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But I think Scotland can hold its
own as far as beauty's concerned.
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We're an hour and a half from
Inverness as we pull...
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..into the station at Ardgay.
134
00:11:00,960 --> 00:11:05,960
This area is famous for its
expansive moors and stark beauty.
135
00:11:06,960 --> 00:11:08,640
But it wasn't always like this.
136
00:11:08,960 --> 00:11:16,960
10,000 years ago, the area was
covered with the dense Caledonian
forest that teemed with wildlife.
137
00:11:19,640 --> 00:11:23,960
At Alladale Wilderness Reserve, a
beautiful remote glen,
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they want to bring back the rich
woodlands with an ambitious
rewilding project.
139
00:11:29,960 --> 00:11:33,960
Reserve manager Innes has worked the
land for 30 years.
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00:11:34,960 --> 00:11:38,960
He leads the dedicated team
restoring the area and its wildlife.
141
00:11:39,960 --> 00:11:44,960
And today we join him as he heads up
through Alladale to check on
progress.
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00:11:44,960 --> 00:11:48,320
The area we're in at the moment, we
planted in 2010.
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We planted approximately 80,000
trees in here.
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Predominantly Scots Pine on the
north slopes.
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00:11:57,480 --> 00:12:01,960
There's a mixture of birches and
rowans and other native
broad-leaves.
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00:12:02,480 --> 00:12:06,960
Over the last 18 years, they have
planted over a million trees
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across this 23,000 acre Highland
paradise.
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Hopefully, through the next few
decades, this will become a wooded
landscape in places again.
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Giving us clean air to breathe you
know.
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00:12:24,800 --> 00:12:29,000
Physically having helped plant these
trees in the area we're stood in at
the moment,
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00:12:29,320 --> 00:12:32,960
selfishly I want it to happen a lot
quicker than it is.
152
00:12:32,960 --> 00:12:34,960
You can't beat nature, you know.
153
00:12:36,960 --> 00:12:38,960
It's not just the woodlands they are
reviving.
154
00:12:39,960 --> 00:12:42,960
The biodiversity was much richer in
the past.
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00:12:43,320 --> 00:12:45,960
And today it's predominantly deer
that live here.
156
00:12:47,960 --> 00:12:51,800
So Innes is working to slowly
re-introduce native species.
157
00:12:51,960 --> 00:12:53,960
Like the red squirrel.
158
00:12:54,960 --> 00:12:58,960
We brought back the red squirrels in
2013.
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00:12:59,960 --> 00:13:01,960
Well, they're a native species so
they belong here.
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00:13:02,960 --> 00:13:07,320
We took 36 red squirrels to some
wooded areas.
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00:13:07,960 --> 00:13:12,960
The more habitat we create here, the
more areas we get for the red
squirrels the better.
162
00:13:14,800 --> 00:13:17,960
The whole countryside could be for
everything.
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00:13:18,960 --> 00:13:22,960
It's not just about creating this
woodland, it's about creating
something
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that's going to be important for the
birdlife that's going to us it in
the future.
165
00:13:27,960 --> 00:13:30,960
And the squirrels hopefully once the
trees get established.
166
00:13:32,000 --> 00:13:35,960
It's a massive jigsaw puzzle, piece
by piece putting it back together.
167
00:13:41,000 --> 00:13:45,960
At the west end of Alladale, Innes
has found their herd of Highland
cows.
168
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Another part of the rewilding
jigsaw.
169
00:13:51,960 --> 00:13:54,160
There are regrazing plans for the
reserve.
170
00:13:55,960 --> 00:14:00,960
The cowpats that the cattle are
producing, great for insects.
171
00:14:00,960 --> 00:14:02,960
Insects help feed the wading birds.
172
00:14:03,960 --> 00:14:06,960
It's important to have big grazers
like this.
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00:14:07,800 --> 00:14:12,960
They're heavy-hoofed animals as
well. They're great for aerating the
ground and breaking the surface.
174
00:14:12,960 --> 00:14:16,480
Every now and again we run them
through some of the wooded areas.
175
00:14:16,480 --> 00:14:20,960
It's great for opening the ground up
for trees to reseed naturally.
176
00:14:21,960 --> 00:14:24,800
There is no quick fix to rewild
Alladale.
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00:14:24,960 --> 00:14:29,960
But their pioneering work will
undoubtedly benefit many future
generations.
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Come on.
179
00:14:34,960 --> 00:14:35,960
Come on, guys.
180
00:14:36,960 --> 00:14:38,960
When you going to have your calf,
girl?
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00:14:44,960 --> 00:14:48,960
We're back on board our Scotrail
train as it weaves inland.
182
00:14:49,960 --> 00:14:52,960
And heads towards the county of
Sutherland.
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00:14:54,800 --> 00:14:58,960
Beautiful. Lots of gorse everywhere.
That's a real...very Scottish thing.
184
00:14:58,960 --> 00:15:02,000
There's lots of fields of gorse
bushes, which is very yellow.
185
00:15:02,960 --> 00:15:05,960
And the colours are so dynamic.
186
00:15:06,800 --> 00:15:08,960
It just makes a beautiful picture.
187
00:15:11,960 --> 00:15:16,960
But in the past, this area was the
backdrop to the Highland clearances.
188
00:15:17,960 --> 00:15:22,960
This is when landowners forced the
local families off their private
estate.
189
00:15:23,960 --> 00:15:29,640
At the time, people were crofters,
farming in the glens and paying
their dues to the landowners.
190
00:15:29,960 --> 00:15:35,960
A simple, sustainable way of life
for many in the Highlands until the
clearances.
191
00:15:37,960 --> 00:15:42,960
The famine set in and the reputation
of the landowners
192
00:15:43,480 --> 00:15:47,960
nosedived when they were seen as
perpetrating almost a form of
genocide.
193
00:15:49,960 --> 00:15:53,960
The windows of Croick church tucked
away near Dornoch Firth,
194
00:15:54,320 --> 00:15:57,960
reveal the story of Glencalvie's
clearances.
195
00:15:58,960 --> 00:16:05,960
18 families, 90 people in total,
were cleared from their homes where
they had lived for generations.
196
00:16:06,960 --> 00:16:09,960
They sought refuge in this
graveyard.
197
00:16:10,960 --> 00:16:15,960
This is the important window that
we're very proud of.
198
00:16:17,480 --> 00:16:21,000
When the families were cleared and
sheltering in the graveyard,
199
00:16:21,960 --> 00:16:24,160
they scratched their names on the
glass.
200
00:16:26,960 --> 00:16:30,960
Although the crofters paid rent, the
landowners wanted to make more
money,
201
00:16:31,160 --> 00:16:33,960
by introducing lucrative commercial
sheep farming.
202
00:16:35,480 --> 00:16:38,960
People of Glencalvie that were
cleared in 1845,
203
00:16:38,960 --> 00:16:44,960
had never fallen behind in their
rents at all and weren't a burden
on anyone.
204
00:16:45,480 --> 00:16:47,960
The landowners were actually quite
ruthless.
205
00:16:48,320 --> 00:16:51,960
They cleared everyone from their
homes.
206
00:16:52,160 --> 00:16:55,960
A very sad part of Scottish history
altogether.
207
00:16:55,960 --> 00:17:00,960
And instead of a valley having,
perhaps 90 people living in it,
208
00:17:00,960 --> 00:17:03,960
there were hundreds of sheep and one
shepherd.
209
00:17:05,000 --> 00:17:09,960
Two centuries on, the windows of
this Croick church tell of the
anguish
210
00:17:09,960 --> 00:17:11,960
of the displaced people of
Glencalvie.
211
00:17:13,960 --> 00:17:16,960
So we can actually see the names
that were there.
212
00:17:16,960 --> 00:17:19,960
There's the name of one of the
shepherds.
213
00:17:19,960 --> 00:17:24,000
There's also a lady's name of Babs.
Her name was scratched on it.
214
00:17:24,960 --> 00:17:27,960
And I think the saddest thing of the
windows of all,
215
00:17:27,960 --> 00:17:32,960
is the one that says, "Glencalvie,
the wicked generation".
216
00:17:33,960 --> 00:17:36,960
They though that what was happening
to them
217
00:17:36,960 --> 00:17:38,960
was punishment from God.
218
00:17:38,960 --> 00:17:40,960
How sad is that?
219
00:17:41,960 --> 00:17:44,960
Many of the people who were forced
to leave their homes
220
00:17:44,960 --> 00:17:47,960
during the clearances were never
able to return.
221
00:17:57,320 --> 00:18:03,960
We've now travelled 60 miles since
Inverness as we cross the Kyle of
Sutherland at Invershin.
222
00:18:23,960 --> 00:18:28,960
TRAIN ANNOUNCEMENT
We are now approaching Rogart. This
is a request stop.
223
00:18:28,960 --> 00:18:30,960
Please mind the gap when alighting
from this train.
224
00:18:32,960 --> 00:18:38,960
At Rogart station, passengers might
catch a quick glimpse of an
old shunter
225
00:18:38,960 --> 00:18:41,960
on the move, right behind the
station house.
226
00:18:45,960 --> 00:18:49,960
This is a Ruston 48DS Shunter dating
from 1950.
227
00:18:49,960 --> 00:18:53,960
Its spent its days shunting in
Newcastle docks and it's actually
228
00:18:53,960 --> 00:18:57,960
the smallest locomotive that
ever worked on the UK system.
229
00:18:59,320 --> 00:19:02,960
It's been with us for about 15 or 16
years now.
230
00:19:03,960 --> 00:19:07,320
His passion for trains isn't limited
to just the shunter.
231
00:19:07,960 --> 00:19:11,960
Frank and his wife Kate were on a
cycling holiday in 1992,
232
00:19:11,960 --> 00:19:15,960
when they spotted Rogart station
building for sale.
233
00:19:15,960 --> 00:19:18,640
Within a year, they had moved in.
234
00:19:20,960 --> 00:19:25,960
We scratched our heads for about a
year and a half trying to think
what're we going to do with this.
235
00:19:25,960 --> 00:19:28,960
And we decided we would try and
convert it into accommodation.
236
00:19:28,960 --> 00:19:33,960
In 1994, we got some carriages in
and things have taken off from
there.
237
00:19:35,960 --> 00:19:39,960
Nearly 30 years on, their fleet of
renovated holiday homes
238
00:19:39,960 --> 00:19:43,960
are a quirky mix of carriages and
former railway buildings.
239
00:19:47,160 --> 00:19:50,960
People like sleeping in a train
because A, it sounds romantic,
240
00:19:50,960 --> 00:19:53,960
B, many people did it when they were
kids
241
00:19:53,960 --> 00:19:58,960
and C, it recreates the concept of
the camping coach in the 1930s
242
00:19:58,960 --> 00:20:02,000
where the railway company would
actually convert some coaches
243
00:20:02,000 --> 00:20:04,960
and put them into remote wayside
stations.
244
00:20:05,960 --> 00:20:09,960
I have told people that you don't
know where you're going to wake up
in the morning.
245
00:20:10,960 --> 00:20:12,960
It depends on where your dreams take
you.
246
00:20:23,960 --> 00:20:26,800
It's time to leave Rogart and
continue our journey.
247
00:20:32,320 --> 00:20:36,640
This next stage of the line was
built in 1868.
248
00:20:36,960 --> 00:20:41,960
It ran though only as far as
Golspie on the North Sea.
249
00:20:44,960 --> 00:20:49,000
Until the third Duke of Sutherland,
one of the richest landowners in the
country
250
00:20:49,000 --> 00:20:53,960
fancied having his very own line
conveniently to his ancestral home.
251
00:20:56,640 --> 00:21:00,960
The Duke of Sutherland actually
built a 17 mile stretch on the line
252
00:21:00,960 --> 00:21:06,960
which became the longest single
stretch of railway anywhere in
Britain to have been conceived,
253
00:21:07,480 --> 00:21:09,960
funded and delivered by one
individual.
254
00:21:11,960 --> 00:21:13,960
And if one had one's own railway
line,
255
00:21:14,960 --> 00:21:18,480
one would, of course, have one's own
beautiful station.
256
00:21:20,320 --> 00:21:22,960
We're now coming up to Dunrobin
Castle station.
257
00:21:23,960 --> 00:21:29,960
A request stop serving the seat of
the Duke of Sutherland, the man who
built this railway.
258
00:21:35,960 --> 00:21:36,960
Dunrobin castle.
259
00:21:37,960 --> 00:21:39,960
The Duke's family seat.
260
00:21:39,960 --> 00:21:44,960
Inspired no less by French chateaus
and the gardens of Versailles.
261
00:21:46,160 --> 00:21:49,000
The castle dates from around about
1275.
262
00:21:49,960 --> 00:21:51,960
Built by Robin, Earl of Sutherland.
263
00:21:51,960 --> 00:21:54,960
There's been a number of extensions
since then.
264
00:21:54,960 --> 00:21:59,960
And the largest extension was built
in 1850 by the second Duke of
Sutherland.
265
00:22:00,960 --> 00:22:03,960
The castle was designed by Charles
Barry.
266
00:22:03,960 --> 00:22:07,960
And immense figure in 19th century
British architecture.
267
00:22:08,960 --> 00:22:14,000
He designed the Palace of
Westminster and the second Duke
wanted something equally as grand.
268
00:22:16,960 --> 00:22:22,960
The vision that Charles Barry would
have been asked to create by the
family, the fairy tale castle.
269
00:22:24,320 --> 00:22:27,480
Scott has worked here for over 24
years.
270
00:22:27,480 --> 00:22:31,960
A job that stretches from managing
the 100,000 visitors a year
271
00:22:31,960 --> 00:22:34,960
to a daily bit of timekeeping.
272
00:22:35,960 --> 00:22:39,960
Every week, sometimes twice a week,
the clock has to be wound up.
273
00:22:43,960 --> 00:22:50,960
Thanks to Charles Barry, Dunrobin's
clock bears some striking
similarities with Big Ben in London.
274
00:22:51,960 --> 00:22:53,160
So it's not perfect.
275
00:22:54,960 --> 00:22:56,960
Does need tweaking from time to
time.
276
00:22:57,000 --> 00:22:58,960
Sometimes it goes out of sync.
277
00:23:02,000 --> 00:23:08,960
So, sometimes you have to come up
here to release the bells and
release the time so it'll catch up.
278
00:23:11,960 --> 00:23:15,640
Dunrobin has 189 rooms.
279
00:23:15,960 --> 00:23:18,960
and is one of the grandest houses in
Scotland.
280
00:23:19,960 --> 00:23:23,960
With its magnificent location
perched high above the North Sea,
281
00:23:23,960 --> 00:23:25,960
it's straight out of the storybook.
282
00:23:26,960 --> 00:23:31,000
If you can afford to build a French
chateau in the Highlands of
Scotland,
283
00:23:31,000 --> 00:23:33,960
then you can also afford your own
train.
284
00:23:34,960 --> 00:23:38,960
He was very often driving his engine
backwards and forwards on the line.
285
00:23:39,960 --> 00:23:43,960
He built this line, maybe quite an
eccentric thing to do at the time,
286
00:23:43,960 --> 00:23:48,800
but it has really shaped the north
Highland, the way that it is now.
287
00:23:53,960 --> 00:23:58,000
Back on our train, we follow the
Sutherland coast towards Helmsdale.
288
00:23:58,960 --> 00:24:01,320
With views out across the North Sea.
289
00:24:04,960 --> 00:24:07,960
We'll then venture inland along the
Helmsdale river
290
00:24:07,960 --> 00:24:11,640
until we arrive in the incredible
Flow country.
291
00:24:12,960 --> 00:24:16,960
Before finally reaching the
magnificent Caithness coastline.
292
00:24:28,960 --> 00:24:31,960
We're halfway through our journey
along the Far North Line
293
00:24:31,960 --> 00:24:35,960
as it heads to the top Eastern
corner of Scotland.
294
00:24:36,960 --> 00:24:41,960
This four and a half hour trip has a
multitude of stunning, varied
landscapes
295
00:24:41,960 --> 00:24:45,960
from countryside to castles and the
coast.
296
00:24:46,960 --> 00:24:47,960
I enjoy travelling by train.
297
00:24:48,480 --> 00:24:51,320
And we can see the scenery in this
part of the world.
298
00:24:51,640 --> 00:24:53,960
Slight different from anywhere else
in the country.
299
00:25:00,960 --> 00:25:06,480
At Helmsdale, our train leaves the
coast to reach the vast Flow
Country.
300
00:25:06,960 --> 00:25:10,160
We'll stop at the RSPB reserve at
Forsinard.
301
00:25:11,160 --> 00:25:14,960
Before crossing Caithness to Thurso
and Castletown,
302
00:25:15,960 --> 00:25:17,960
where the local stone made such an
impact.
303
00:25:19,800 --> 00:25:23,960
Finally the last port of call will
be the historic town of Wick.
304
00:25:25,960 --> 00:25:29,960
So the scenery has now changed with
a vengeance with our turning inland
305
00:25:29,960 --> 00:25:34,960
from Helmsdale to follow the course
of the Helmsdale river up
Strathulie.
306
00:25:36,960 --> 00:25:39,960
Our train follows the river for 15
miles.
307
00:25:39,960 --> 00:25:44,960
An area famous for gold panning and
wild salmon fishing.
308
00:25:47,960 --> 00:25:51,960
But then it enters a remote sparsely
populated area.
309
00:25:51,960 --> 00:25:54,960
That is one of the worlds rarest
habitats.
310
00:25:56,960 --> 00:26:00,960
This is the spectacular Flow
Country.
311
00:26:01,960 --> 00:26:06,160
An expanse of unique peak land and
rolling mountains.
312
00:26:06,960 --> 00:26:10,960
It's hard to describe but it's
almost like being on the edge of
civilization.
313
00:26:17,960 --> 00:26:19,960
This small station house at
Forsinard
314
00:26:21,640 --> 00:26:25,640
is the visitor centre for the
Forsinard Flow's Nature Reserve.
315
00:26:26,800 --> 00:26:32,160
Managed by the RSPB, the Royal
Society for the Protection of Birds.
316
00:26:36,960 --> 00:26:41,960
Paul leads a special team of RSPB
conservationists
317
00:26:41,960 --> 00:26:46,960
tasked with preserving this unique
an important natural habitat.
318
00:26:47,960 --> 00:26:50,960
The largest continuous area of
blanket bog in Europe
319
00:26:51,160 --> 00:26:54,320
and our reserve is 21,000 hectares.
320
00:26:54,960 --> 00:26:56,960
A hectare's roughly the same size
as a rugby pitch.
321
00:26:57,960 --> 00:26:59,960
So you're looking at about 21,000
rugby pitches.
322
00:27:00,160 --> 00:27:03,960
And this is only a small part of the
larger Flow Country area,
323
00:27:03,960 --> 00:27:06,960
which is roughly 4,000 square miles.
324
00:27:06,960 --> 00:27:08,960
So it's quite a substantial
landscape.
325
00:27:09,960 --> 00:27:15,480
The peatlands store up more carbon
than all of the standing forestry in
the UK.
326
00:27:16,800 --> 00:27:22,320
The peatlands around us here are
actually an incredible part in our
fight against climate change.
327
00:27:25,960 --> 00:27:27,960
Blanket bog is continuous peatland.
328
00:27:27,960 --> 00:27:31,320
So after the glaciers strip away
everything that's there
329
00:27:31,960 --> 00:27:35,640
and it takes very specific climactic
conditions to form peat.
330
00:27:35,960 --> 00:27:38,960
It needs to be quite cool and very
damp.
331
00:27:40,000 --> 00:27:43,960
Part of Paul's work is to do regular
peat depth surveys
332
00:27:43,960 --> 00:27:47,960
to determine how deep a particular
section of peat is.
333
00:27:49,960 --> 00:27:54,640
Peat formation in the blanket bog
has been forming for thousands of
years.
334
00:27:54,960 --> 00:27:56,960
Only forms at about a millimetre a
year.
335
00:27:56,960 --> 00:28:00,960
So, actually your fingernails grow
faster than peat accumulates.
336
00:28:01,960 --> 00:28:03,960
These peat sections are about a
metre long
337
00:28:03,960 --> 00:28:08,640
so they're roughly 1,000 years of
peat depth per section that's going
in.
338
00:28:10,000 --> 00:28:15,000
So that's it hitting the bottom
there. So it's about 3,500 years of
peat accumulation.
339
00:28:17,960 --> 00:28:22,960
The results of these studies help
Paul and his team to monitor the
health of the peat.
340
00:28:23,960 --> 00:28:27,960
We also look at restoring and
repairing damaged areas
341
00:28:27,960 --> 00:28:31,960
that have been knackered by
inappropriate and agricultural
forestry operations.
342
00:28:32,960 --> 00:28:38,960
If we can keep our peatlands in good
condition then we can restore more
carbon underground.
343
00:28:38,960 --> 00:28:43,320
But if we allow it to be damaged,
then we risk losing that carbon to
the atmosphere.
344
00:28:45,960 --> 00:28:51,960
Visitors can get a much better
understanding of these remarkable
peatlands from higher up.
345
00:28:52,960 --> 00:28:57,960
From here, they can see that the
Flow Country is a water world
346
00:28:57,960 --> 00:29:00,960
made up of a mysterious pool system.
347
00:29:03,960 --> 00:29:05,960
We don't really know how they are
created.
348
00:29:05,960 --> 00:29:09,960
It's likely it's driven when erosion
eats away at the edges of smaller
pools
349
00:29:09,960 --> 00:29:12,960
and forms them into these larger
ones.
350
00:29:12,960 --> 00:29:15,320
So over time, they start to
amalgamate together.
351
00:29:15,960 --> 00:29:22,960
These magnificent pool systems are
the natural habitat for thousands of
plants and bird species.
352
00:29:22,960 --> 00:29:26,960
When you do take the time to look at
it and look a bit closer,
353
00:29:26,960 --> 00:29:29,960
you start to find these small
plants, lizards on the boardwalk,
354
00:29:29,960 --> 00:29:34,960
and dragonflies buzzing around. And
that's when you really start to see
what's special here.
355
00:29:36,640 --> 00:29:40,960
Among the many wonders of the Flow
Country are the sphagnum mosses.
356
00:29:40,960 --> 00:29:43,960
These plants are so highly
absorbent,
357
00:29:43,960 --> 00:29:47,960
they were harvested and used as
wound dressings in World War One.
358
00:29:50,640 --> 00:29:54,960
Sphagnum mosses are the building
block of which a blanket bog is
constructed.
359
00:29:54,960 --> 00:29:59,320
Because there's no oxygen, there's
not bacteria to break down the
vegetation.
360
00:29:59,960 --> 00:30:02,960
The sphagnum, instead of breaking
down, basically gets transformed
into peat.
361
00:30:02,960 --> 00:30:04,960
You get accumulation of that peat.
362
00:30:05,800 --> 00:30:08,000
Individually, they're quite small
and fragile looking.
363
00:30:08,960 --> 00:30:13,160
It's pretty amazing that that's what
everything around us is basically
built upon.
364
00:30:18,960 --> 00:30:23,960
Back on board our train, our journey
continues through the heart of
Caithness.
365
00:30:25,960 --> 00:30:27,960
There is no shelter for the railway
line.
366
00:30:27,960 --> 00:30:32,960
And this far north, it's very
exposed, especially in winter.
367
00:30:33,160 --> 00:30:36,960
John recalls one particularly
extraordinary year.
368
00:30:37,960 --> 00:30:44,640
On 28th January 1978, the evening
train from Inverness to Wick was
369
00:30:44,960 --> 00:30:50,640
busy, with over 70 passengers, but
climbed into terrifying conditions.
370
00:30:51,320 --> 00:30:55,320
After leaving Forsinard, it suddenly
ground to a horrendous halt.
371
00:30:55,960 --> 00:30:56,960
And there they stood.
372
00:30:58,960 --> 00:31:01,960
A southbound locomotive sent to
rescue them
373
00:31:01,960 --> 00:31:04,160
also became trapped in the snow.
374
00:31:05,320 --> 00:31:07,000
Many people went to help that night.
375
00:31:07,960 --> 00:31:11,960
Even though the blizzard of 1978 was
one of the most severe in living
memory.
376
00:31:13,800 --> 00:31:15,960
Despite the near whiteout
conditions,
377
00:31:15,960 --> 00:31:20,960
eventually all the passengers were
airlifted and safely returned home.
378
00:31:25,160 --> 00:31:29,480
As our train continues north, we
reach Georgemas Junction.
379
00:31:29,960 --> 00:31:32,960
From here it splits to go to Thurso.
380
00:31:38,000 --> 00:31:43,800
And along the way, another of
Caithness' famous features comes
into view.
381
00:31:43,960 --> 00:31:44,960
Its stone.
382
00:31:45,960 --> 00:31:50,960
Building dry-stone walls is an
ancient craft dating back thousands
of years.
383
00:31:51,960 --> 00:31:56,960
They're built using the local
Caithness flagstone, a rock that is
highly sought after.
384
00:32:02,960 --> 00:32:05,960
Thurso is the countries most
northerly stop.
385
00:32:06,640 --> 00:32:08,960
And just a mile east from here is
Castletown.
386
00:32:09,960 --> 00:32:10,960
The flagstone village.
387
00:32:12,960 --> 00:32:15,960
It isn't just the walls that are
made of Caithness stone.
388
00:32:16,960 --> 00:32:20,160
It was used to build this
extraordinary harbour too.
389
00:32:21,960 --> 00:32:26,960
George, who was born and raised in
the area, is a dry-stone walling
master craftsman.
390
00:32:27,960 --> 00:32:32,960
This is dry-stone walling. It's the
same principles as farm walling.
391
00:32:32,960 --> 00:32:35,960
You'll see that around the farms in
the countryside in Caithness.
392
00:32:35,960 --> 00:32:41,960
But its been applied on a much more
massive engineering scale for
harbour construction.
393
00:32:42,960 --> 00:32:46,960
The principle of dry-stone walling
is that it works on friction.
394
00:32:47,480 --> 00:32:50,480
Caithness flagstones are flat and
strong.
395
00:32:50,960 --> 00:32:55,960
And no mortar, neither cement or
lime, is used to hold them together.
396
00:32:55,960 --> 00:33:02,960
If the wall moves and the mortar and
the cement cracks, water gets
trapped inside the structure.
397
00:33:02,960 --> 00:33:06,960
Then it can expand and start blowing
things out.
398
00:33:07,960 --> 00:33:09,960
A wall without mortar is
free draining.
399
00:33:10,640 --> 00:33:15,960
If you took a dry-stone wall apart,
the wall inside would be dry,
because it's designed to shed water.
400
00:33:15,960 --> 00:33:21,160
The harbour walling Castletown was
built 200 years ago in 1825.
401
00:33:21,320 --> 00:33:23,480
It still stands strong today.
402
00:33:23,960 --> 00:33:27,160
All of the stones are held together
by the friction between the stones.
403
00:33:27,960 --> 00:33:29,960
And then when we get to the top
layer,
404
00:33:30,960 --> 00:33:32,960
we put these vertical stones on the
top.
405
00:33:33,160 --> 00:33:37,960
Here they're gigantic because it's a
harbour but even on the agricultural
walls,
406
00:33:37,960 --> 00:33:42,800
they have vertical stones on top
which puts pressure on that last
layer and holds it in place.
407
00:33:42,960 --> 00:33:48,640
If the last layer is held in place,
then all the other layers underneath
are secured as well by that.
408
00:33:49,960 --> 00:33:55,960
As the tide goes out, the full
extent of the walls clever
engineering is revealed.
409
00:33:58,960 --> 00:34:03,960
The outside has been built in a
unique way for withstanding big
storms.
410
00:34:03,960 --> 00:34:08,960
If they were all nice and flat and
even, then the wave would hit them
all at once.
411
00:34:09,480 --> 00:34:12,960
It'd be a much heavier load on the
stones. But when they're rough like
that,
412
00:34:12,960 --> 00:34:17,960
they break up the force of the wave
into lots of different impacts
rather than one big impact.
413
00:34:18,960 --> 00:34:23,960
Castletown's small harbour was once
one of the busiest harbours in
Caithness.
414
00:34:23,960 --> 00:34:27,960
It used to export the precious
Caithness flagstone around the
world.
415
00:34:28,640 --> 00:34:35,960
Back in the day of the 1800s, stone
from here was being exported to
London, New York, Boston,
416
00:34:35,960 --> 00:34:40,960
Paris, Sydney, all around the globe
from this tiny little harbour.
417
00:34:41,960 --> 00:34:43,000
It's quite an achievement.
418
00:34:47,320 --> 00:34:52,480
To this day, the stone continues to
occupy a special place in Caithness.
419
00:34:52,960 --> 00:34:56,160
It still drives a thriving modern
industry.
420
00:34:56,640 --> 00:34:59,000
Caithness is proud of its history
with Caithness flagstone.
421
00:34:59,960 --> 00:35:01,960
It's one of the oldest industries up
here.
422
00:35:02,320 --> 00:35:05,960
And it's certainly one of the oldest
industries that's still flourishing
today.
423
00:35:07,000 --> 00:35:11,160
Big selling point of the Caithness
flagstone is its very, very flat
nature.
424
00:35:11,960 --> 00:35:13,960
And its extremely high flexural
strength.
425
00:35:14,960 --> 00:35:18,960
Caithness flagstones formed 400
million years ago,
426
00:35:18,960 --> 00:35:23,960
at the bottom of a colossal lake
stretching from Orkney to Moray.
427
00:35:24,160 --> 00:35:30,640
As the water levels changed, the
fine sediment settled and fused
together over time.
428
00:35:30,960 --> 00:35:35,960
You can see the horizontal strata of
the stone which is perfectly flat.
429
00:35:35,960 --> 00:35:40,160
The various layers of sand and
minerals that have been compacted
over millions of years.
430
00:35:40,960 --> 00:35:43,960
That have gone into forming the
Caithness flagstone.
431
00:35:44,960 --> 00:35:47,960
21st Century technology is used
around the quarry,
432
00:35:47,960 --> 00:35:52,960
but not for one key point, splitting
the stone.
433
00:35:53,960 --> 00:35:58,960
The ancient art of chasing the crack
is always by hand.
434
00:36:00,960 --> 00:36:02,960
We can't machine split the stone.
435
00:36:03,160 --> 00:36:07,960
It takes a level of skill and
understanding of exactly where to
split the stone,
436
00:36:07,960 --> 00:36:11,960
the forces and the pressures to use
to split the stone.
437
00:36:12,960 --> 00:36:16,960
John has been perfecting this art
for 17 years.
438
00:36:17,960 --> 00:36:20,960
We've got 13 layers in a quarry.
439
00:36:20,960 --> 00:36:24,960
And what we do is, we split it down
into the different thicknesses
440
00:36:24,960 --> 00:36:25,960
using natural grains.
441
00:36:26,960 --> 00:36:30,960
I'm using the wing of the hammer and
knowing how hard to hit it.
442
00:36:31,960 --> 00:36:34,960
Listening to see if it's opening up
cos it should be.
443
00:36:37,960 --> 00:36:43,960
The stone can then be cut to size
using modern laser guided diamond
saws.
444
00:36:45,960 --> 00:36:48,000
It is then ready to be shipped
around the world.
445
00:36:49,160 --> 00:36:52,960
It's nice to be one of the last
remaining quarries
446
00:36:52,960 --> 00:36:56,960
that still uses the modern and
ancient technique.
447
00:36:57,960 --> 00:37:01,960
Generations of different techniques
and generations of different skills.
448
00:37:10,960 --> 00:37:15,800
Back on board our train, we're
heading to our final stop, Wick.
449
00:37:20,960 --> 00:37:26,960
A town with a rich fishing history
and on one of the countries most
spectacular coastlines.
450
00:37:39,960 --> 00:37:46,960
We are in the county of Caithness on
the final part of our journey on
Scotland's Far North Line.
451
00:37:50,960 --> 00:37:52,960
It's been a relaxing journey today.
452
00:37:52,960 --> 00:37:55,960
You're seeing so much, different
landscapes.
453
00:37:55,960 --> 00:37:58,960
This is what makes it one of the
beautiful journeys.
454
00:37:59,960 --> 00:38:02,960
Not only in Scotland or the UK but
in the world.
455
00:38:07,960 --> 00:38:12,640
We have travelled over 150 miles
since we left Inverness.
456
00:38:14,960 --> 00:38:16,960
And now arrive at our destination.
457
00:38:18,960 --> 00:38:19,960
Wick.
458
00:38:22,960 --> 00:38:28,960
This former Viking settlement is the
main town in the far northeast of
mainland Scotland.
459
00:38:29,960 --> 00:38:32,960
The place intrinsically connected to
the sea.
460
00:38:35,960 --> 00:38:41,640
Wick's now quiet harbour was once
the buzzing herring capital of
Europe.
461
00:38:43,960 --> 00:38:47,960
The Wick Heritage Museum is home to
the Johnston Collection.
462
00:38:47,960 --> 00:38:51,800
An incredible 50,000 digital images.
463
00:38:52,960 --> 00:38:54,800
Ian is their chairman.
464
00:38:55,000 --> 00:38:58,160
These photographs were taken by
Alexander Johnston.
465
00:38:58,960 --> 00:39:02,960
He was the first of three
generations that was to
466
00:39:02,960 --> 00:39:05,960
photograph in Wick and its
surrounding areas.
467
00:39:05,960 --> 00:39:09,960
He left an enormous visual social
history of this area.
468
00:39:11,960 --> 00:39:14,960
Alexander Johnston's photographs
from the 1860s
469
00:39:14,960 --> 00:39:18,960
captured an era when Wick harbour
was a hive of activity.
470
00:39:19,960 --> 00:39:23,960
They showed the countless boats
returning with their daily catch
471
00:39:23,960 --> 00:39:26,960
and the land based industry that
supported them.
472
00:39:26,960 --> 00:39:33,320
We reckon that there was probably,
at its busiest time, around about
1,000 boats in the harbour.
473
00:39:33,960 --> 00:39:36,800
So it was a very busy and congested
place.
474
00:39:37,960 --> 00:39:39,960
All of these boats were unloading
herring.
475
00:39:40,960 --> 00:39:46,000
There was teams of herring girls
ready with their knives. They were
the gutters of the herring.
476
00:39:46,800 --> 00:39:48,960
Very proficient they became at the
gutting.
477
00:39:48,960 --> 00:39:52,960
The best of them could do 30 or 40
herring in a minute.
478
00:39:53,640 --> 00:39:59,960
The herring, known as the silver
darlings, were then packed into
barrels, salted and sealed.
479
00:40:00,960 --> 00:40:07,480
There was a schooner waiting to take
the completed barrels away for
export to the Baltic countries.
480
00:40:07,960 --> 00:40:11,960
The herring industry gradually
declined after World War One
481
00:40:11,960 --> 00:40:14,480
when fish stocks began to dwindle.
482
00:40:15,960 --> 00:40:18,960
But Johnston's photographs remain a
powerful testament
483
00:40:18,960 --> 00:40:22,960
to the long gone glory days of
Wick's fishing industry.
484
00:40:23,960 --> 00:40:26,160
There's stories behind all of these
photographs.
485
00:40:26,960 --> 00:40:29,960
The people that were engaged in
various occupations.
486
00:40:30,160 --> 00:40:31,960
Every picture tells a story.
487
00:40:35,960 --> 00:40:39,960
Before Wick's heyday, local
fishermen had to take their chances
488
00:40:39,960 --> 00:40:43,960
and unload their catches along the
rugged coastline of Caithness.
489
00:40:47,960 --> 00:40:50,960
One popular natural harbour was at
Whaligoe.
490
00:40:51,960 --> 00:40:55,960
But it was at the bottom of a 250
foot cliff.
491
00:40:57,800 --> 00:41:04,960
To reach the sea in 1792, 365 steps
were painstakingly built
492
00:41:04,960 --> 00:41:06,960
using the local Caithness
flagstone.
493
00:41:09,640 --> 00:41:14,640
Charles grew up in a village nearby
and has known the Whaligoe steps all
his life.
494
00:41:16,960 --> 00:41:20,960
200 years ago, it had been quite a
brutal piece of living.
495
00:41:20,960 --> 00:41:23,960
This place has been crammed with
bolts.
496
00:41:23,960 --> 00:41:26,000
And people docking fish down there.
497
00:41:26,640 --> 00:41:29,960
The women carried the fish from the
bottom,
498
00:41:29,960 --> 00:41:34,480
up the stairs and they walked to
Wick which is seven miles away.
499
00:41:35,960 --> 00:41:40,960
This steep exhausting path was never
going to be able to compete with the
big harbour.
500
00:41:42,320 --> 00:41:46,960
By the mid 1800s, there could be 20
boats using Whaligoe.
501
00:41:46,960 --> 00:41:48,960
while 1,000 went to Wick.
502
00:41:50,960 --> 00:41:56,960
And when the boats stopped coming
altogether, the steps began to
crumble and were nearly forgotten.
503
00:41:59,160 --> 00:42:03,960
Like his mother before him, Charlie
helps to repair and maintain the
steps.
504
00:42:04,960 --> 00:42:07,800
To keep them safe for visitors.
505
00:42:08,800 --> 00:42:10,960
I get a great feeling working here.
506
00:42:11,960 --> 00:42:13,960
It feels as if the place wants to be
repaired.
507
00:42:14,960 --> 00:42:18,800
I would say there's a fair bit of
spirit on the go here.
508
00:42:18,960 --> 00:42:20,960
It's stunning. You have to be here
to experience it.
509
00:42:25,320 --> 00:42:29,640
The soaring sea stacks and
magnificent cliffs of Caithness
510
00:42:29,960 --> 00:42:33,960
will always be a fitting end to
anyone's journey.
511
00:42:37,800 --> 00:42:39,960
We've travelled past idyllic rivers,
512
00:42:40,960 --> 00:42:43,960
and explored the wild corners of
Scotland.
513
00:42:45,960 --> 00:42:48,000
We've crossed the unique Flow
Country.
514
00:42:49,960 --> 00:42:50,960
And capped it all...
515
00:42:52,800 --> 00:42:55,960
..with Caithness' extraordinary
coastline.
516
00:42:58,000 --> 00:43:04,960
All along the Far North Line.
Indeed, one of the world's greatest
train journeys.
49627
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