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Escape with us on
a legendary voyage through
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the western Scottish Highlands,
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00:00:07,960 --> 00:00:11,960
as we pass through some of the
world's most spectacular scenery
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00:00:11,960 --> 00:00:15,960
en route to the glorious
Isle of Skye.
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It's a little ice-age gem.
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It's absolutely astounding.
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On this incredible journey,
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we travel through landscapes
steeped in folklore and myth...
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It just oozes history.
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You get the smell of
that in your body
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as soon as you come up here.
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00:00:30,960 --> 00:00:35,960
..pass through an ancient landscape
of hills and lochs...
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00:00:35,960 --> 00:00:39,960
You're so aware of the seasons
changing around you.
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00:00:40,960 --> 00:00:43,960
..a land filled
with tradition and story.
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It was a way of life very close
to the land and to nature.
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Oh, I wouldn't be anywhere else!
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We'll meet the people who live and
work along this special railway...
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It is the most gorgeous place
up here.
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Everyone's in awe when
they come off the train.
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..before we arrive at
our enchanting destination.
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Skye has an atmosphere
that I have never encountered
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anywhere else in the world.
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This is no ordinary railway journey.
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This is one of the most scenic
railway journeys in the world -
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the West Highland Line, Scotland.
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TRAIN WHISTLE TOOTS
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Our journey begins in Glasgow,
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Scotland's largest city.
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It's a world-class cultural gem,
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famed for its ship-building heritage
and rich history.
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The city's latest architectural
highlight is Queen Street station
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in the heart of downtown Glasgow.
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It's here, at precisely
12.23 each weekday,
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that passengers board
an unassuming train,
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00:02:10,960 --> 00:02:15,960
a Class 156 diesel multiple-unit,
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to embark on one of the most magical
scenic railway journeys
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in the world.
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GUARD'S WHISTLE BLOWS
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WOMAN: Ladies and gentlemen,
the front two coaches are
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for stations to Oban and
the rear four coaches are going
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to Fort William and Mallaig.
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Our four-carriage train
soon weaves its way
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into the lowlands beyond Glasgow.
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It's a route whose passing
landscapes inspired poets and
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00:02:53,960 --> 00:02:57,960
writers, and is a favourite
of veteran rail ambassador
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and railway aficionado John.
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It's extraordinary
how the journey unfolds
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and the train takes you to places
that the roads cannot reach.
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It's also, in a sense, a journey
that keeps on developing.
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You might call it, in that sense,
the gift that keeps on giving.
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00:03:16,960 --> 00:03:19,960
The first leg of our
200-mile journey takes us
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through Loch Lomond and
the Trossachs National Park.
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Stopping at Ardlui, we then
journey north through
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the remote Western Highlands,
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pulling in at Upper Tyndrum,
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then Corrour,
Britain's highest station,
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and Fort William, home to
the country's tallest peak.
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Finally we cross the famous
Glenfinnan Viaduct
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before arriving at
our destination, Mallaig,
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gateway to the Isle of Skye.
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30 miles into our journey,
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our train enters Loch Lomond
and the Trossachs National Park...
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..with salt-water Loch Long
on one side of the tracks
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and the south of Loch Lomond
on the other.
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At the heart of this
720-square-mile wilderness
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is Britain's largest
inland stretch of water.
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Loch Lomond contains
over 30 separate islands,
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a miraculous ancient landscape
that park ranger Jim
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gets to regularly patrol.
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So we've just passed over
the Highland Boundary Fault here
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and this is where two plates over
thousands and thousands of years -
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40 million years, in fact -
came crashing together
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and pushed these islands up.
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00:05:13,000 --> 00:05:15,960
Albeit over a long period of time,
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there's a geological drama going on.
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One of the islands near
the southern end is Inchcailloch,
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a protected gem
unchanged for decades.
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You just never know
what you're going to see.
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I thought I was about to
see my first otter
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and it turned out it was a squirrel.
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I didn't know squirrels could swim
at the time, but they obviously can.
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All this woodland here is
Atlantic oak woodland,
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which forms part of
this Celtic rainforest.
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The conditions here are ideal.
It's wet and mild,
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and it has really, really
good air quality,
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which makes the perfect conditions
for growing not just these trees
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but all these mosses and lichens,
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which gives it
this really lush appeal.
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00:06:04,960 --> 00:06:08,960
This is one of the most
diverse habitats in the UK.
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00:06:10,800 --> 00:06:15,960
At the top of island,
Pinus sylvestris - or Scots pine.
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These rare trees are
a living remnant
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of Scotland's original
temperate rainforest
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that first grew here
almost 10,000 years ago.
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I think this is one of my
favourite views in
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the whole of the national park.
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The size of the landscape,
the variety of habitats,
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it means peace to me.
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00:06:36,960 --> 00:06:39,800
I see such a big landscape,
such a lot going on in it,
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all the different habitats
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and the associated wildlife
and people that are inside that.
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It really is a very special place.
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Far below, our train weaves its way
through mile after mile
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00:07:01,960 --> 00:07:04,960
of dense woodland that
surrounds the loch.
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The forests are back now.
Oh, yeah, now the forests are back,
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00:07:07,960 --> 00:07:09,960
so that's nice.
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00:07:09,960 --> 00:07:11,320
We like... We prefer the forests.
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It's a really exciting journey.
It's beautiful.
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00:07:21,000 --> 00:07:24,960
So Tarbet is the Gaelic for
"the place where they drag
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"the boats", so if you come to
a place called Tarbet
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it's usually on an isthmus,
a narrow piece of land
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between two lochs.
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And this is no exception
because this Tarbet lies
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between Loch Long and Loch Lomond.
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It's from here in days gone by
that Viking raiders would launch
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their boats to ambush unsuspecting
settlers.
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Following in their footsteps today
is a different kind of warrior.
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Local wild swimmer Bev won't be
taking on the loch dwellers
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00:08:00,960 --> 00:08:03,960
but she will be trying
to conquer water
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00:08:03,960 --> 00:08:06,960
that can reach as low as
four degrees Celsius.
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00:08:06,960 --> 00:08:10,960
Going into the water may
be considered the worst part
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00:08:10,960 --> 00:08:14,640
but it's also the most
exciting part.
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It's the bit when you're fighting
your own natural instincts.
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We call ourselves
the Callander Coven,
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because there's three of us
mostly swim together,
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and we cackle like witches
every time we get in the water.
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Warm water, I think we call...
It's OK. Or it's braw.
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When it's not OK, well, it's also
a lot of swearing at times.
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Some days in the depths of winter
you do question your own sanity.
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But once you're in, it's
a completely full-body experience.
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It's incredible.
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You're submersed in
one element completely,
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and then you look at the landscape -
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you're so aware of the seasons
changing around you.
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00:09:21,160 --> 00:09:23,960
You're so in tune with
every one of your senses.
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00:09:23,960 --> 00:09:26,960
You're listening, looking, feeling
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because you're always
in that moment.
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It's musical.
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Even when the weather is grim
and dreich and misty,
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every day is a different experience.
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On really calm days,
when the loch is still
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and the wind is blowing in the west,
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you'll hear the train just
working its way up the track
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in the distance.
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And that's a lovely sound.
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00:10:03,960 --> 00:10:08,960
Next, our train journeys north,
deeper into the Trossachs,
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to enter a landscape steeped
in history, legend and folklore.
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I've had some strange experiences
of the fairy kingdom.
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TRAIN WHISTLE TOOTS
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We're 70 miles into one of the
world's most scenic railway journeys
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through the western
Scottish Highlands.
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Our final destination is Mallaig
and the Isle of Skye.
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Our journey continues on
through the northern reaches
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of the national park,
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stopping at Ardlui and
Upper Tyndrum,
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home of one of Scotland's
best-kept geological secrets,
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before entering the rugged heart
of the western Highlands.
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So we're now climbing out of
the Loch Lomond system of rivers
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and we're now in the country of
Rob Roy MacGregor,
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who was Scotland's favourite bandit,
a sort of Robin Hood character,
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robbing the rich
to benefit the poor.
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I think this is the first full glory
of the Highlands that you're seeing.
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By the time our train pulls
in to Ardlui,
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we're deep in the Trossachs.
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The station itself -
an ancient Gaelic name
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that means "high ground
of the calves" -
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echoes a sweeping landscape beyond
that is rich in legend and folklore.
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MAN SINGS TO HIMSELF
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That'll do, Jess. That'll do.
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Fergus is the last farmer
in his valley
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to still follow crofting traditions
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that date back
to the era of Highland clans.
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Stay there. Good girl.
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Just stay there, Jess.
I don't need you in here just now.
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Now, ladies, let's have
a look at you.
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How are we doing?
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Easy. Steady now, steady now,
steady.
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There we go.
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Ah, you're a fine-looking bunch!
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Fergus keeps traditional
Highland breeds
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on his 500-year-old Ledard Farm.
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It just oozes history.
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And you get the smell of that
in your body
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as soon as you come up here.
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It's closer to the soil.
Your senses are much stronger.
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Celtic people tend to be close
to the supernatural.
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I've had some strange experiences
of the fairy kingdom.
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Some years ago we had
a festival featuring New Zealand
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and we brought the Maori
concert party to do
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00:13:01,960 --> 00:13:03,960
all their singing and dancing
and all the rest,
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00:13:03,960 --> 00:13:05,960
and with them came a holy man,
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00:13:05,960 --> 00:13:07,960
and he was tattooed from his
forehead to the tip of his toes.
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00:13:07,960 --> 00:13:09,960
And when he was up here, he said,
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00:13:09,960 --> 00:13:11,960
"Well, take me to the Fairy Knowe,
to the fairy hill."
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So we took them up here. This is
a guy from 12,000 miles away,
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00:13:14,640 --> 00:13:15,800
by the way
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00:13:17,960 --> 00:13:20,960
Now, as soon as we got up there,
he started to get excited
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00:13:20,960 --> 00:13:22,960
and he produced a kind of
whistly thing and he was playing it
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00:13:22,960 --> 00:13:25,960
and then he said, "I can see them."
I said, "You're joking."
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00:13:25,960 --> 00:13:27,000
"No," he said, "Look at the tree.
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00:13:27,000 --> 00:13:28,960
"There on the tree
on the left-hand branch,
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00:13:28,960 --> 00:13:30,960
"the main one on the left,
you'll see them."
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00:13:30,960 --> 00:13:34,480
Now, we couldn't see anybody but
the branch - and there was no wind -
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00:13:34,480 --> 00:13:36,960
was going up and down,
as if people were sitting on it.
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00:13:36,960 --> 00:13:38,160
And he said,
"They're laughing at us.
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00:13:38,160 --> 00:13:40,000
"And now they've jumped over
to the other side."
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00:13:40,000 --> 00:13:42,960
And, sure enough, the branch
on the other side started going
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up and down. So we were a wee bit
freaked out at this.
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We don't mock the fairies round
here. And I believe in them, yeah.
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00:13:51,960 --> 00:13:55,960
The Trossachs haven't just made
a fine home for fairies.
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00:13:55,960 --> 00:14:00,960
They were also the stomping ground
of Scotland's own Robin Hood,
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00:14:00,960 --> 00:14:03,960
Rob Roy MacGregor.
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00:14:03,960 --> 00:14:07,960
During the 17th century,
the young clansman took refuge
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00:14:07,960 --> 00:14:11,960
in the wild forests
that surround Fergus's farm.
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00:14:11,960 --> 00:14:16,160
As a young man he even used the barn
that still stands here today.
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00:14:16,160 --> 00:14:18,480
Jess. Come on, Jess.
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00:14:18,480 --> 00:14:20,800
Okey dokey, here we go.
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00:14:20,800 --> 00:14:22,960
So this is MacGregor's barn,
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00:14:22,960 --> 00:14:26,960
and of course young Rob came
in here in October 1689
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00:14:26,960 --> 00:14:29,960
to be welcomed and introduced
to the company of men.
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00:14:29,960 --> 00:14:31,960
That was the standard thing
at harvest time,
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00:14:31,960 --> 00:14:34,640
the Feast of the Hairst Kirn,
when young men who'd turned 18
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joined the company
of their fellow men.
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00:14:36,960 --> 00:14:39,960
And, of course, the buzz at
that particular dinner
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00:14:39,960 --> 00:14:41,960
was the battle that had been fought,
225
00:14:41,960 --> 00:14:44,960
involving 50 MacGregors
from here, including Rob Roy,
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00:14:44,960 --> 00:14:45,960
the Battle of Killiecrankie.
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00:14:45,960 --> 00:14:48,000
So everybody was talking
about that battle
228
00:14:48,000 --> 00:14:51,960
and indeed the chairman
of the evening invited Rob
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00:14:51,960 --> 00:14:53,640
to give a wee account of the battle.
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00:14:53,640 --> 00:14:55,960
So he stood up as a young man
and he gave his account
231
00:14:55,960 --> 00:14:59,960
of the Battle of Killiecrankie
as he saw it.
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00:14:59,960 --> 00:15:03,960
Six centuries on, Fergus plays
a traditional folk song
233
00:15:03,960 --> 00:15:07,960
with his son, Gregor,
that honours this heroic saga,
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00:15:07,960 --> 00:15:11,960
outside the same barn
where young Rob Roy once grew
235
00:15:11,960 --> 00:15:13,960
from child to man.
236
00:15:16,000 --> 00:15:18,960
THEY PLAY A GENTLE, LILTING MELODY
237
00:15:59,960 --> 00:16:01,160
MUSIC FADES AWAY
238
00:16:04,960 --> 00:16:07,160
100 miles into our journey,
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00:16:07,160 --> 00:16:10,960
forest gives way to wild moorland.
240
00:16:21,960 --> 00:16:26,960
Upper Tyndrum, that serves a nearby
rural town, population less
241
00:16:26,960 --> 00:16:32,000
than 200, at first appears to be
a quiet, ordinary-looking station.
242
00:16:32,000 --> 00:16:35,960
But passengers alighting here
will be blissfully unaware
243
00:16:35,960 --> 00:16:39,960
that inside a grey, A-listed
waiting room
244
00:16:39,960 --> 00:16:44,480
lies a clue to the country's
shiniest secret.
245
00:16:44,480 --> 00:16:49,160
On a quest to find it,
exploration geologist Charlie.
246
00:16:49,160 --> 00:16:51,960
Scotland is really rich in gold.
247
00:16:51,960 --> 00:16:54,960
There's actually some records
of gold being found
248
00:16:54,960 --> 00:16:56,960
as early as the 1600s
249
00:16:56,960 --> 00:16:59,960
and that is where they found
gold nuggets in rivers.
250
00:16:59,960 --> 00:17:02,960
But it's not always easy
to find gold here.
251
00:17:02,960 --> 00:17:06,800
And Tyndrum station is really
useful for us
252
00:17:06,800 --> 00:17:09,960
because it's right in the middle
of quite a prospective area.
253
00:17:09,960 --> 00:17:13,000
But not every station
in the world has its very own
254
00:17:13,000 --> 00:17:15,960
Lara Croft on Platform 1.
255
00:17:15,960 --> 00:17:19,320
In the summer we get lots
of walkers coming past.
256
00:17:19,320 --> 00:17:21,960
They always want to know when
the train's coming,
257
00:17:21,960 --> 00:17:23,960
can they buy a ticket from me,
258
00:17:23,960 --> 00:17:25,960
but, unfortunately, no,
I'm not the ticket officer
259
00:17:25,960 --> 00:17:27,960
so I can't issue them anything.
260
00:17:27,960 --> 00:17:30,960
When not redirecting
lost passengers,
261
00:17:30,960 --> 00:17:34,960
Charlie is out on site,
deep inside the Cononish Mine,
262
00:17:34,960 --> 00:17:39,960
which they believe sits on top
of a huge vein of gold.
263
00:17:39,960 --> 00:17:43,960
But only by investigating thousands
of core samples,
264
00:17:43,960 --> 00:17:47,960
drilled down to 200 metres,
will Charlie be able to find
265
00:17:47,960 --> 00:17:50,800
the best place to extract the ore.
266
00:17:50,800 --> 00:17:53,960
I'm just going to spray them
with water.
267
00:17:53,960 --> 00:17:56,640
That really helps to bring out
the different colours.
268
00:17:59,960 --> 00:18:02,960
Sometimes we get really great pieces
269
00:18:02,960 --> 00:18:05,960
and there can be as much
as 5, 10, 20, 40,
270
00:18:05,960 --> 00:18:08,960
50, 60 grammes per tonne of gold.
271
00:18:08,960 --> 00:18:13,960
Worldwide, that would be considered
a really high-grade deposit.
272
00:18:13,960 --> 00:18:16,960
Usually pretty shiny,
so shiny means gold.
273
00:18:19,960 --> 00:18:21,160
TRAIN HORN SOUNDS
274
00:18:23,960 --> 00:18:29,000
Leaving behind Tyndrum's
hidden bonanza,
275
00:18:29,000 --> 00:18:31,960
our train now winds its way slowly
276
00:18:31,960 --> 00:18:36,640
through one of Scotland's
remotest landscapes.
277
00:18:36,640 --> 00:18:39,960
And the views just get better.
278
00:18:47,960 --> 00:18:50,960
Every time you lift your head up
and look out the window,
279
00:18:50,960 --> 00:18:51,960
it's something different.
280
00:18:51,960 --> 00:18:55,960
Really incredible.
Really mesmerising.
281
00:18:55,960 --> 00:18:57,960
Yeah, it's definitely picturesque.
282
00:18:57,960 --> 00:19:00,960
We were just saying that it's
probably the best view
283
00:19:00,960 --> 00:19:02,960
that I've ever seen from
a train my whole life so far.
284
00:19:02,960 --> 00:19:03,960
It's stunning.
285
00:19:05,960 --> 00:19:09,160
But this stunning scenery
hides a dark secret.
286
00:19:16,960 --> 00:19:18,960
During the 19th century,
287
00:19:18,960 --> 00:19:21,960
the challenging mountain terrain
had discouraged
288
00:19:21,960 --> 00:19:24,960
the building of a railway here.
289
00:19:24,960 --> 00:19:28,960
But when construction on the
West Highland Line finally began
290
00:19:28,960 --> 00:19:30,960
in the 1890s,
291
00:19:30,960 --> 00:19:34,960
the dirty work was left
to seasonal migrant labourers -
292
00:19:34,960 --> 00:19:36,960
the navvies.
293
00:19:36,960 --> 00:19:40,000
Many were from Ireland,
294
00:19:40,000 --> 00:19:43,320
the forgotten heroes of
railway history.
295
00:19:45,000 --> 00:19:48,960
The 3,000 navvies and more
who worked on it
296
00:19:48,960 --> 00:19:50,960
found it very, very difficult
297
00:19:50,960 --> 00:19:54,640
because we didn't have mechanical
shovels in these days, excavators.
298
00:19:54,640 --> 00:19:56,960
It was mostly done by hand.
299
00:19:56,960 --> 00:20:00,960
They worked in atrocious
winter conditions.
300
00:20:00,960 --> 00:20:02,960
And, of course, there were
many accidents.
301
00:20:02,960 --> 00:20:05,960
When darkness fell,
they lost their way and
302
00:20:05,960 --> 00:20:07,960
they were never seen again.
303
00:20:10,960 --> 00:20:13,960
By the time the construction
had reached
304
00:20:13,960 --> 00:20:16,960
the steep valley
five miles north of Tyndrum,
305
00:20:16,960 --> 00:20:18,960
the railway money had run out.
306
00:20:18,960 --> 00:20:22,960
And building a one-mile long bridge
across marshy ground
307
00:20:22,960 --> 00:20:24,960
was far too expensive.
308
00:20:24,960 --> 00:20:29,960
So they decided to go round in
a horseshoe shape over two viaducts
309
00:20:29,960 --> 00:20:31,960
to get to Rannoch Moor,
310
00:20:31,960 --> 00:20:35,960
a big feat of endurance and,
actually, as railways go,
311
00:20:35,960 --> 00:20:37,960
probably unique in Britain.
312
00:20:43,960 --> 00:20:46,960
Here comes the train now
and heading for the first viaduct.
313
00:20:59,960 --> 00:21:02,480
It's now crossed the second
of the two viaducts
314
00:21:02,480 --> 00:21:03,960
at the entrance to Glen Lyon.
315
00:21:03,960 --> 00:21:06,960
It'll run round the flanks
of this mountain
316
00:21:06,960 --> 00:21:08,320
before it heads for Rannoch Moor.
317
00:21:13,160 --> 00:21:16,960
And when our train eventually
reaches Rannoch Moor,
318
00:21:16,960 --> 00:21:20,960
passengers are greeted with one of
the most spectacular scenes
319
00:21:20,960 --> 00:21:23,960
on any railway journey in the world.
320
00:21:23,960 --> 00:21:26,960
It's just got complete scenery
both sides of the carriage.
321
00:21:26,960 --> 00:21:28,960
So you've got a full 360 view.
322
00:21:30,000 --> 00:21:31,960
TRAIN WHISTLE BLOWS
323
00:21:34,960 --> 00:21:37,960
We're halfway through one of
the most scenic railway journeys
324
00:21:37,960 --> 00:21:40,320
in the world,
325
00:21:40,320 --> 00:21:44,480
the West Highland Line in Scotland.
326
00:21:44,480 --> 00:21:48,960
It's a five-hour voyage from
Glasgow to Mallaig.
327
00:21:48,960 --> 00:21:50,800
This is meant to be
one of the most beautiful
328
00:21:50,800 --> 00:21:51,960
train journeys in the world.
329
00:21:51,960 --> 00:21:53,320
I didn't know what to expect.
330
00:21:53,320 --> 00:21:54,960
I mean, it's just quite
a stark contrast
331
00:21:54,960 --> 00:21:56,960
to what we're used to
on a train journey.
332
00:21:56,960 --> 00:21:59,960
You'll be in, like, a green field,
or in a forest,
333
00:21:59,960 --> 00:22:03,960
then suddenly a massive loch
or a big mountain will appear.
334
00:22:09,960 --> 00:22:13,960
Our train now shoots through
the wild interior
335
00:22:13,960 --> 00:22:17,960
of the western Scottish Highlands
to stop at Corrour,
336
00:22:17,960 --> 00:22:20,960
Britain's highest station,
337
00:22:20,960 --> 00:22:26,960
and Fort William, that sits next to
the tallest mountain in the country.
338
00:22:38,960 --> 00:22:42,000
Rising to over 1,200 feet,
339
00:22:42,000 --> 00:22:45,960
Rannoch Moor is an upland plateau
surrounded on all sides
340
00:22:45,960 --> 00:22:48,960
by barren hills and peat bogs.
341
00:22:51,960 --> 00:22:55,960
Its sweeping views have come
to define the elemental beauty
342
00:22:55,960 --> 00:22:57,960
of the Scottish Highlands.
343
00:22:57,960 --> 00:23:00,960
Less well known is
the moorland's secret kingdom
344
00:23:00,960 --> 00:23:03,960
of ancient glacial lochs...
345
00:23:08,960 --> 00:23:11,960
..some of which can be accessed
from Rannoch Moor station,
346
00:23:11,960 --> 00:23:14,960
altitude 1,000 feet.
347
00:23:27,960 --> 00:23:32,800
Just a short walk away, Loch Laidon,
348
00:23:32,800 --> 00:23:35,960
a favourite escape
of locals Gordon and Ron.
349
00:23:40,960 --> 00:23:42,960
I was up at Loch an Duin
with Jim Brown,
350
00:23:42,960 --> 00:23:44,640
the butcher in Blair Atholl.
351
00:23:44,640 --> 00:23:46,960
Right, OK. And I had
a wee Mepps spoon,
352
00:23:46,960 --> 00:23:48,960
and I caught six and he caught none.
353
00:23:48,960 --> 00:23:50,960
We stopped for a cup of tea
and a wee bite to eat
354
00:23:50,960 --> 00:23:52,960
and we went back out with
the same tackle,
355
00:23:52,960 --> 00:23:55,000
and he caught six and I caught none.
All right.
356
00:23:55,000 --> 00:23:57,960
Well, that's fishing for you,
isn't it? That's why we do it.
357
00:23:57,960 --> 00:24:00,800
You've never actually got it sussed.
358
00:24:00,800 --> 00:24:02,960
Aye, the midgies are getting
pretty bad again.
359
00:24:02,960 --> 00:24:05,000
Bloody midgies are horrendous
the now. Yeah, absolutely.
360
00:24:05,000 --> 00:24:07,960
This is prime midgie weather.
Indeed. They just love it.
361
00:24:07,960 --> 00:24:11,640
Yeah. No wind, bit of sunshine,
a bit of warmth.
362
00:24:11,640 --> 00:24:14,960
I'm quite sure, Gordon,
that when mother-in-laws die
363
00:24:14,960 --> 00:24:18,320
they come up to Loch Laidon
and get reincarnated as midgies
364
00:24:18,320 --> 00:24:19,960
and attack innocent men.
365
00:24:19,960 --> 00:24:21,960
GORDON LAUGHS
I think they do, aye.
366
00:24:21,960 --> 00:24:24,640
Just because we're enjoying
ourselves fishing.
367
00:24:24,640 --> 00:24:25,960
This is Scotland.
368
00:24:25,960 --> 00:24:28,160
Commit any crime you like
as long as you don't enjoy it.
369
00:24:31,320 --> 00:24:33,960
When not swatting midges,
370
00:24:33,960 --> 00:24:35,960
Ron is a distinguished
marine biologist
371
00:24:35,960 --> 00:24:39,960
specialising in Highland
fish species.
372
00:24:39,960 --> 00:24:43,800
He's discovered that four
genetically distinct species of
373
00:24:43,800 --> 00:24:48,320
brown trout have evolved here
at Loch Laidon.
374
00:24:48,320 --> 00:24:50,960
It's a little ice-age gem.
375
00:24:50,960 --> 00:24:52,960
We're a kind of aquatic Galapagos
376
00:24:52,960 --> 00:24:55,960
because we've got the same kind
of evolutionary processes going on,
377
00:24:55,960 --> 00:24:58,960
with different body shapes,
head shapes,
378
00:24:58,960 --> 00:25:01,480
just like the Galapagos finches
have different beaks
379
00:25:01,480 --> 00:25:02,960
for eating different foods.
380
00:25:04,960 --> 00:25:08,960
To be able to discover new species
in your own back yard
381
00:25:08,960 --> 00:25:10,960
is absolutely... It's just...
382
00:25:10,960 --> 00:25:12,960
The word is gobsmacking.
383
00:25:12,960 --> 00:25:16,960
One species lives almost
completely in the dark,
384
00:25:16,960 --> 00:25:19,160
below 120 feet.
385
00:25:19,160 --> 00:25:23,960
Another eats fish up to
a third of its size.
386
00:25:23,960 --> 00:25:26,960
The ferox is a freshwater wolf
from the Ice Age.
387
00:25:26,960 --> 00:25:29,960
It really is the last of
the ice-age megafauna,
388
00:25:29,960 --> 00:25:32,320
when the mammoths and the muskox
and the bears were
389
00:25:32,320 --> 00:25:34,960
all round about here.
390
00:25:34,960 --> 00:25:38,960
But catching one requires some
rather unorthodox methods.
391
00:25:38,960 --> 00:25:40,960
This is called trolling.
392
00:25:40,960 --> 00:25:45,960
Basically, it's a lure that imitates
a sick or injured fish.
393
00:25:45,960 --> 00:25:48,320
So we're trying to initiate
a strike.
394
00:25:48,320 --> 00:25:49,960
It's a kind of bovine activity.
395
00:25:49,960 --> 00:25:53,960
It's not particularly
sophisticated but it works.
396
00:25:53,960 --> 00:25:55,960
Oh, you know when you've
caught a ferox.
397
00:25:55,960 --> 00:25:58,960
That rod will just about hit
Gordon in the face.
398
00:25:58,960 --> 00:26:02,800
No ice-age wolf on the line today,
399
00:26:02,800 --> 00:26:05,960
but Gordon offers a masterclass
in fly fishing.
400
00:26:07,960 --> 00:26:09,960
That's another one of these
black-spotted ones.
401
00:26:09,960 --> 00:26:13,960
It's consistent with their diet with
salmon, feeding near the surface.
402
00:26:13,960 --> 00:26:16,960
Yeah. A bigger one.
Aye, it's a nice fish, yeah.
403
00:26:16,960 --> 00:26:19,960
Aye. And that little rod. You can
see why you're getting them. I know.
404
00:26:19,960 --> 00:26:23,160
It's a fighting chance -
you're fishing fair, unlike me.
405
00:26:23,160 --> 00:26:25,960
Aye, I know, yeah.
LAUGHTER
406
00:26:25,960 --> 00:26:29,480
Yeah. Pull this line in. Yeah.
407
00:26:29,480 --> 00:26:30,960
Lovely.
408
00:26:30,960 --> 00:26:32,960
Oh!
409
00:26:32,960 --> 00:26:35,960
Oh, there we go. He's off. He's off!
410
00:26:42,960 --> 00:26:45,640
Less than a few long casts
from the railway tracks,
411
00:26:45,640 --> 00:26:49,640
our train continues across
Rannoch Moor,
412
00:26:49,640 --> 00:26:53,640
gently ascending towards
Britain's highest station.
413
00:27:00,960 --> 00:27:02,960
We're going to Corrour
for a couple of days
414
00:27:02,960 --> 00:27:03,960
to stay in the old Signal Box.
415
00:27:03,960 --> 00:27:06,000
The station can only be
accessed by train.
416
00:27:06,000 --> 00:27:08,320
There's no roads or
footpaths nearby.
417
00:27:08,320 --> 00:27:11,800
So it's going to be really nice
to be completely cut off
418
00:27:11,800 --> 00:27:15,960
and just be alone
with the beautiful scenery.
419
00:27:15,960 --> 00:27:18,960
Staying overnight
in Scotland's remotest station
420
00:27:18,960 --> 00:27:22,960
may not be everyone's idea
of a great escape,
421
00:27:22,960 --> 00:27:25,960
but a stopover in Corrour's
Signal Box provides you
422
00:27:25,960 --> 00:27:30,960
with unbridled access to some of
Scotland's finest moorland walks...
423
00:27:33,960 --> 00:27:35,960
..followed by a hearty meal
on Britain's
424
00:27:35,960 --> 00:27:38,960
highest platform restaurant.
425
00:27:39,960 --> 00:27:42,960
So people come up and
they'll have big parties
426
00:27:42,960 --> 00:27:46,160
because they've climbed
all of the 282 Munros in Scotland
427
00:27:46,160 --> 00:27:48,960
and this is their last one.
428
00:27:48,960 --> 00:27:50,960
You've just got the best views.
429
00:27:50,960 --> 00:27:52,960
There's nowhere like it
in the country.
430
00:27:52,960 --> 00:27:55,800
Out of every window
there's a spectacular view.
431
00:27:55,800 --> 00:27:57,960
It is very vast
but it is one big bog,
432
00:27:57,960 --> 00:28:00,960
so that's what we always refer to -
it's just "the bog".
433
00:28:00,960 --> 00:28:02,960
Lots of heather and lots of deer.
434
00:28:02,960 --> 00:28:06,960
And, yeah, quite a barren landscape
up here. But it's lovely.
435
00:28:06,960 --> 00:28:08,960
Beautifully barren.
436
00:28:12,000 --> 00:28:14,960
Well, you can get some
sort of spooky evenings up here
437
00:28:14,960 --> 00:28:16,960
and there's a few characters around.
438
00:28:21,960 --> 00:28:24,800
And there's two hermits which
live on the loch.
439
00:28:24,800 --> 00:28:27,960
There's one proper hermit and one
sort of fake hermit, we call him.
440
00:28:27,960 --> 00:28:30,160
So Ken, who's the real hermit,
he lives in the woodlands
441
00:28:30,160 --> 00:28:33,960
and he's travelled the world and
this is his most favourite place.
442
00:28:33,960 --> 00:28:35,960
He's got about three or four
log cabins
443
00:28:35,960 --> 00:28:38,960
and he's lived in there for
the last 30 years.
444
00:28:38,960 --> 00:28:42,960
And there's another hermit who lives
at the other end of the loch.
445
00:28:42,960 --> 00:28:45,960
He's stayed in a two-man tent
for the last ten years
446
00:28:45,960 --> 00:28:48,960
and he's been planting lots
of trees, which is one miracle.
447
00:28:48,960 --> 00:28:50,960
So he's an awfully nice guy.
448
00:28:51,960 --> 00:28:55,000
With the B&B based on Platform 2,
449
00:28:55,000 --> 00:28:58,000
there's no excuse
for missing the train -
450
00:28:58,000 --> 00:29:03,960
unless, of course, you fancy hanging
around here a few years as a hermit.
451
00:29:05,960 --> 00:29:07,960
We know all the conductors
on the line.
452
00:29:07,960 --> 00:29:11,960
Our favourite one is a woman called
Suzie. She's such a character.
453
00:29:11,960 --> 00:29:13,960
If you get a chance to
go on the train,
454
00:29:13,960 --> 00:29:15,320
she'll be singing down the Tannoy.
455
00:29:16,960 --> 00:29:19,960
The West Highland Line is one of
the most beautiful railways.
456
00:29:19,960 --> 00:29:23,960
It's just got complete scenery
both sides of the carriage.
457
00:29:23,960 --> 00:29:26,960
You've got a full... Full 360 view.
458
00:29:37,160 --> 00:29:39,320
With its magnetic beauty,
459
00:29:39,320 --> 00:29:42,960
it's no wonder passengers
from all over the world make
460
00:29:42,960 --> 00:29:48,960
their own pilgrimages to
the West Highlands,
461
00:29:48,960 --> 00:29:52,960
including a tour of Ben Nevis,
Britain's highest mountain.
462
00:29:56,000 --> 00:29:59,960
We're camping below
Ben Nevis tonight
463
00:29:59,960 --> 00:30:01,960
and then walking
the mountain tomorrow.
464
00:30:01,960 --> 00:30:04,960
So we've been training,
so hopefully it goes well.
465
00:30:11,960 --> 00:30:15,320
For outdoor enthusiasts,
Fort William is
466
00:30:15,320 --> 00:30:18,960
the launching-off point
for big adventures.
467
00:30:23,640 --> 00:30:28,960
Some people walk
the 4,500-foot mountain.
468
00:30:28,960 --> 00:30:30,960
Others run!
469
00:30:33,960 --> 00:30:36,960
Local twins, Fraser and Ruaraidh,
470
00:30:36,960 --> 00:30:39,960
both have an equal passion
for hill running.
471
00:30:39,960 --> 00:30:43,960
I just love the simplicity
of running.
472
00:30:43,960 --> 00:30:46,960
Just with a pair of shoes
and we can run anywhere.
473
00:30:46,960 --> 00:30:49,960
When you're running,
the senses change so much,
474
00:30:49,960 --> 00:30:52,160
so the smells of the grass,
the trees
475
00:30:52,160 --> 00:30:55,960
and then just the way the grass
and trees change colour
476
00:30:55,960 --> 00:30:58,320
during the seasons as well. Mm.
It's really visual.
477
00:30:58,320 --> 00:31:00,960
I think that's the beauty of it.
Aye, aye.
478
00:31:01,960 --> 00:31:06,960
But today's run to Steall Falls,
Scotland's biggest waterfall,
479
00:31:06,960 --> 00:31:07,960
is just a warm-up.
480
00:31:08,960 --> 00:31:12,960
These twins are training
to scale Ben Nevis and back
481
00:31:12,960 --> 00:31:15,000
in less than two hours.
482
00:31:15,000 --> 00:31:20,000
So if you ask me who you think
is the better runner,
483
00:31:20,000 --> 00:31:22,960
I would say me.
484
00:31:22,960 --> 00:31:25,960
I'm usually quite a bit faster
than Ruaraidh.
485
00:31:27,000 --> 00:31:29,960
But I know on the Ben Nevis race
that Ruaraidh's, what,
486
00:31:29,960 --> 00:31:31,960
20 seconds ahead? 40, I think.
487
00:31:31,960 --> 00:31:33,320
Oh, all right. 40 seconds ahead.
488
00:31:34,960 --> 00:31:36,960
Usually my big toe gets it.
Aye, aye.
489
00:31:39,960 --> 00:31:42,960
We've had a few races where
we've crossed the line together.
490
00:31:45,960 --> 00:31:50,960
While our runners brace themselves
for their next ascent,
491
00:31:50,960 --> 00:31:52,960
railway workers at Fort William
prepare our train
492
00:31:52,960 --> 00:31:55,960
for the final stretch to Mallaig.
493
00:32:06,960 --> 00:32:10,960
The last 40 miles of the route
travel northwest,
494
00:32:10,960 --> 00:32:13,960
crossing Glenfinnan Viaduct
495
00:32:13,960 --> 00:32:16,960
before reaching
the Atlantic coastline
496
00:32:16,960 --> 00:32:19,960
and our destination, Mallaig,
497
00:32:19,960 --> 00:32:22,960
gateway to the magnificent
Isle of Skye.
498
00:32:31,960 --> 00:32:35,960
After skirting
the picturesque Loch Eil,
499
00:32:35,960 --> 00:32:39,960
our train approaches one of
Scotland's greatest landmarks.
500
00:33:01,960 --> 00:33:06,960
Glenfinnan Viaduct is sometimes
nicknamed the Harry Potter Crossing
501
00:33:06,960 --> 00:33:10,960
after featuring in
the famous fantasy movie.
502
00:33:10,960 --> 00:33:12,960
I heard about the train journey
503
00:33:12,960 --> 00:33:15,960
because it's the one the
Hogwarts Express is based on.
504
00:33:15,960 --> 00:33:17,960
So I didn't know what to expect.
505
00:33:17,960 --> 00:33:22,320
But, erm, no chocolate frogs,
but it's been beautiful.
506
00:33:22,320 --> 00:33:25,960
However, it's not just the scene
in Harry Potter that has sealed
507
00:33:25,960 --> 00:33:31,960
its fame, but its place
in world engineering history
508
00:33:31,960 --> 00:33:37,960
as revealed in the museum on
Platform 1, run by Hege.
509
00:33:37,960 --> 00:33:41,960
What Harry Potter fans
don't perhaps know is that
510
00:33:41,960 --> 00:33:45,960
the reason why the Glenfinnan
Viaduct was so famous
511
00:33:45,960 --> 00:33:49,960
is that, like all of
the viaducts on this line,
512
00:33:49,960 --> 00:33:51,960
it's built from concrete.
513
00:33:51,960 --> 00:33:53,960
It's built from mass concrete.
514
00:33:54,960 --> 00:33:56,960
During the end of the 19th century,
515
00:33:56,960 --> 00:34:00,000
the pioneering Victorian engineer
Sir Robert McAlpine,
516
00:34:00,000 --> 00:34:03,960
nicknamed Concrete Bob,
won the contract
517
00:34:03,960 --> 00:34:06,320
to build much of
the West Highland Line.
518
00:34:06,320 --> 00:34:08,960
Oh, it just wouldn't have been built
because it was impossible to do it
519
00:34:08,960 --> 00:34:11,480
in any other way
for the money available.
520
00:34:11,480 --> 00:34:14,960
We just wouldn't have had
a railway line if not.
521
00:34:14,960 --> 00:34:17,960
All 21 arches of the bridge
were constructed
522
00:34:17,960 --> 00:34:21,960
in preformed mass concrete.
523
00:34:21,960 --> 00:34:24,960
In engineering terms,
this was revolutionary.
524
00:34:29,960 --> 00:34:31,960
It started here.
525
00:34:31,960 --> 00:34:35,960
This was the first contract
that concrete was used exclusively
526
00:34:35,960 --> 00:34:39,960
for the full line, and we all know
what a fabulous role
527
00:34:39,960 --> 00:34:42,960
it has played in engineering
ever since.
528
00:34:42,960 --> 00:34:44,960
I look at it and think,
529
00:34:44,960 --> 00:34:50,960
"This concrete, this grey,
old concrete, is gorgeous." Mm.
530
00:34:50,960 --> 00:34:55,960
And just behind the station, another
reason to get off at Glenfinnan -
531
00:34:55,960 --> 00:34:57,640
Loch Shiel.
532
00:35:02,960 --> 00:35:07,960
Here, as a young man,
the now 89-year-old Tearlach
533
00:35:07,960 --> 00:35:10,960
would once roam the hills barefoot.
534
00:35:11,960 --> 00:35:16,480
That is, until he discovered
the wheel.
535
00:35:16,480 --> 00:35:18,960
A perfect day would be
for me to put the bicycle
536
00:35:18,960 --> 00:35:23,960
into my little sailing boat
and row across the loch
537
00:35:23,960 --> 00:35:27,960
and take the bike out onto the top
on the pointed hill over there
538
00:35:27,960 --> 00:35:30,320
and then come down in the corrie
539
00:35:30,320 --> 00:35:32,960
and dive into a rock pool.
540
00:35:34,000 --> 00:35:36,480
Spectacular scenery.
541
00:35:40,960 --> 00:35:42,960
Oh, I wouldn't be anywhere else!
542
00:35:45,960 --> 00:35:50,320
Looming over the head of the loch,
its most famous landmark,
543
00:35:50,320 --> 00:35:53,960
the monument to
the Unknown Highlander.
544
00:35:53,960 --> 00:35:55,960
It commemorates
the Jacobite uprising,
545
00:35:55,960 --> 00:35:59,960
one of Scotland's bleakest
periods of history.
546
00:35:59,960 --> 00:36:03,960
It was here in 1745
that Scottish clans gathered
547
00:36:03,960 --> 00:36:06,960
in support of Bonnie Prince Charlie,
548
00:36:06,960 --> 00:36:09,960
who claimed his right
as heir to the British throne.
549
00:36:11,960 --> 00:36:14,000
Well, this was where the prince
raised his standard.
550
00:36:14,000 --> 00:36:16,960
There would have been
over 1,000 people there.
551
00:36:18,960 --> 00:36:21,640
It was more or less
at the centre of the area
552
00:36:21,640 --> 00:36:23,960
that was sympathetic to the cause.
553
00:36:23,960 --> 00:36:28,320
It's exactly 275 years ago today
554
00:36:28,320 --> 00:36:30,960
that the clans mustered.
555
00:36:31,960 --> 00:36:35,960
In the end, the British
crushed the uprising.
556
00:36:35,960 --> 00:36:39,960
But with defeat went
an ancient clan way of life.
557
00:36:41,640 --> 00:36:43,960
No, it was... It was...
558
00:36:44,960 --> 00:36:46,960
..much worse than people realise.
559
00:36:50,960 --> 00:36:54,960
It brought an end to a culture,
a way of life,
560
00:36:54,960 --> 00:36:59,960
very, very close to the land
and to nature.
561
00:36:59,960 --> 00:37:05,960
The bond between the land
and the people was very strong.
562
00:37:07,960 --> 00:37:12,960
It was in a sense
a classless kind of community
563
00:37:12,960 --> 00:37:16,960
because the chief was looked on
as the father of the people
564
00:37:16,960 --> 00:37:21,960
and the people all looked upon
themselves as part of the family.
565
00:37:21,960 --> 00:37:25,960
Although the clan system was
largely destroyed centuries ago,
566
00:37:25,960 --> 00:37:29,960
within feet of our railway tracks
ancient Scottish traditions
567
00:37:29,960 --> 00:37:30,960
still linger.
568
00:37:32,960 --> 00:37:39,640
Music and poetry and story were
all very much part of it all too.
569
00:37:43,960 --> 00:37:48,480
And, yes, the story was important.
Very important, yes, yeah.
570
00:37:58,000 --> 00:38:00,960
And the story of our journey
is soon to reach
571
00:38:00,960 --> 00:38:07,960
its final, riveting chapter along
west Scotland's coast
572
00:38:07,960 --> 00:38:11,960
as it glides towards our
destination - Mallaig and Skye.
573
00:38:17,000 --> 00:38:18,960
TRAIN WHISTLE TOOTS
574
00:38:25,480 --> 00:38:28,960
It's the final stretch
of our 200-mile train journey
575
00:38:28,960 --> 00:38:32,960
aboard Scotland's
West Highland Line.
576
00:38:32,960 --> 00:38:36,960
For the first time, passengers get
a glimpse of the coast.
577
00:38:41,960 --> 00:38:44,960
So here the railway to the isles
is approaching
578
00:38:44,960 --> 00:38:46,960
its magnificent conclusion.
579
00:38:46,960 --> 00:38:49,960
Mallaig is a jumping-off point
to the islands
580
00:38:49,960 --> 00:38:52,960
and also to the coastline beyond.
581
00:38:59,000 --> 00:39:03,960
After five hours' travel across
Western Scotland
582
00:39:03,960 --> 00:39:08,960
our train glides in to
the coastal station of Mallaig.
583
00:39:11,960 --> 00:39:15,960
But this is far from the end
of our Highland journey
584
00:39:15,960 --> 00:39:19,960
because just across the water...
585
00:39:19,960 --> 00:39:24,800
..lies one of the most enchanting
island landscapes in the world.
586
00:39:27,160 --> 00:39:31,960
WOMAN: Skye is known as
the Misty Isle for good reason.
587
00:39:31,960 --> 00:39:34,960
The moving mist,
the changing light -
588
00:39:34,960 --> 00:39:37,960
you have four seasons in one day.
589
00:39:37,960 --> 00:39:39,960
The Skye landscape is magical.
590
00:39:39,960 --> 00:39:41,960
It's ever-changing,
591
00:39:41,960 --> 00:39:45,960
and never do I tire
of looking at the same view.
592
00:39:45,960 --> 00:39:49,960
An atmosphere that I have
never encountered
593
00:39:49,960 --> 00:39:51,960
anywhere else in the world.
594
00:39:51,960 --> 00:39:55,960
Isabella is a daughter
of the Macdonald clan chief.
595
00:39:55,960 --> 00:39:59,800
Their family roots date back
more than 800 years.
596
00:39:59,800 --> 00:40:02,960
We can trace ourselves back to 1140,
597
00:40:02,960 --> 00:40:07,800
when Somerled married Ragnhilda,
the daughter of Olaf the Red,
598
00:40:07,800 --> 00:40:10,320
so going back to Viking times.
599
00:40:11,960 --> 00:40:14,960
For me, the clan and being part
of the Clan Macdonald
600
00:40:14,960 --> 00:40:17,960
is something I feel very proud of.
601
00:40:17,960 --> 00:40:21,160
So there's an awareness of
the history and the heritage,
602
00:40:21,160 --> 00:40:24,960
which is poignant.
603
00:40:24,960 --> 00:40:27,960
The clan's former hunting lodge
has now been converted
604
00:40:27,960 --> 00:40:30,800
into a boutique hotel
and restaurant.
605
00:40:31,960 --> 00:40:35,960
But the house remains a treasure
trove of clan history.
606
00:40:40,960 --> 00:40:44,960
The lodge sits right on the edge
of Loch na Dal.
607
00:40:44,960 --> 00:40:47,160
It's part of Skye's unique landscape
608
00:40:47,160 --> 00:40:49,960
that lures visitors
from all over the world
609
00:40:49,960 --> 00:40:52,960
for its traditional Highland fare.
610
00:40:52,960 --> 00:40:54,960
As an island,
we're surrounded by water.
611
00:40:54,960 --> 00:40:57,960
You can taste the beauty
of the scenery -
612
00:40:57,960 --> 00:41:01,960
the shellfish, the fish,
is second to none...
613
00:41:04,960 --> 00:41:08,960
..and is just rich in what I call
the natural larder.
614
00:41:10,960 --> 00:41:13,640
One of Skye's most sought-after
delicacies
615
00:41:13,640 --> 00:41:16,960
are the island's fresh scallops.
616
00:41:16,960 --> 00:41:20,960
How's it going, buddy?
Good. How are you? I'm good, yeah.
617
00:41:20,960 --> 00:41:21,960
And how are they today?
618
00:41:21,960 --> 00:41:24,960
Fresh as always. Awesome.
619
00:41:24,960 --> 00:41:26,640
Let's see how good these are.
620
00:41:26,640 --> 00:41:28,960
Ooh! Hand-dived this morning.
621
00:41:28,960 --> 00:41:29,960
Always beautiful.
622
00:41:31,480 --> 00:41:32,960
Super scallop.
623
00:41:32,960 --> 00:41:36,640
They are unlike any scallop
I've ever come across
624
00:41:36,640 --> 00:41:38,960
in any other part of the world.
625
00:41:38,960 --> 00:41:41,960
They are like steaks, almost,
626
00:41:41,960 --> 00:41:45,960
and even eaten raw they are sweet
and delicious and succulent.
627
00:41:45,960 --> 00:41:49,640
Skye is a real foodie destination.
628
00:41:49,640 --> 00:41:53,320
I could go on forever about
reasons for people to visit Skye.
629
00:41:53,320 --> 00:41:55,480
BAGPIPES: The Skye Boat Song
630
00:42:02,960 --> 00:42:07,480
This enchanting isle is a land
steeped in ancient history
631
00:42:07,480 --> 00:42:09,960
and spectacular scenery...
632
00:42:10,960 --> 00:42:13,960
..and a place with
the warmest of welcomes -
633
00:42:13,960 --> 00:42:17,000
a fitting end to our journey.
634
00:42:29,320 --> 00:42:33,960
On our epic, 200-mile trip
from Glasgow to Mallaig,
635
00:42:33,960 --> 00:42:39,640
we have travelled across some of
Scotland's finest landscapes,
636
00:42:39,640 --> 00:42:42,960
met living legends,
637
00:42:42,960 --> 00:42:46,320
discovered its hidden treasures
638
00:42:46,320 --> 00:42:49,960
and even caught ice-age megafauna.
639
00:42:52,960 --> 00:42:58,480
Our West Highland voyage has been
a truly magnificent railway journey.
53329
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