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Join us on an extraordinary journey
through one of the world's
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most northern countries.
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00:00:12,960 --> 00:00:15,960
On a railway line that penetrates
the thickest of forests...
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00:00:17,960 --> 00:00:19,960
..passes vast frozen lakes...
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00:00:23,960 --> 00:00:28,000
..and runs all year round, no matter
how tough the conditions.
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00:00:29,320 --> 00:00:30,960
It's extremely hard work.
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A route that endures freezing
temperatures...
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We are crazy, we are Finnish,
so that's normal.
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..and has suffered
extraordinary destruction.
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The Germans felt betrayed.
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On their way out, they
destroyed everything.
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We'll meet the people who live
and work
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along this very special train line.
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This is no ordinary railway journey.
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This is one of the most scenic
railway journeys in the world...
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..Finland.
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Finland, the hidden gem of
Northern Europe.
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During winter, a fairy tale
landscape of snow and ice.
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Our rail trip begins in the capital,
Helsinki, at its magnificent
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Art Nouveau Central Station.
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Waiting at the platform
is our intercity train
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with a powerful Sr2 locomotive
and double-deck passenger coaches,
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powered by overhead electricity
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and capable of producing
6,100 kilowatts,
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or over 8,000 horsepower,
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it can reach speeds of up to 130mph.
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Our journey will take us
from Helsinki on the south coast,
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to Kemijarvi in the far north.
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The first stage is through
Finland's lake district to Mikkeli,
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and then onto the city of Kuopio.
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At Lake Oulujarvi, we
travel north west
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towards Oulu and the Baltic Sea.
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From there, we skirt the icy
coastline before turning inland
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for Rovaniemi, Lapland's capital.
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After more than 600 miles,
we'll arrive at our destination
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inside the Arctic Circle.
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It's winter, and even though our
train is departing at 8.38 in the
morning,
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Helsinki is so far north,
it's still dark.
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Our conductor on board
today is Joseph.
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Now we are going with a
double-deck intercity train
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and the capacity of
this train is about 600.
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This part of our trip is
from Helsinki to Mikkeli,
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a two-and-a-half-hour journey
through a wintry wonderland.
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It may look cold outside,
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but there's always hot
Finnish delicacies on offer.
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I'm working in the restaurant car
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and we make some coffee and
tea for the customers
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and some meatballs.
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Meatballs and mash might be
recognised the world over,
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but not that much is known
about the Finns themselves.
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Finnish people are maybe a bit shy
and nice, polite, very honest,
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and we do our best to help you.
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Outside, the wide, flat landscape is
soon hidden by forest,
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with three quarters of
the countryside,
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almost 90,000 square miles,
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00:03:54,960 --> 00:03:59,000
covered in woodland, it's a view our
passengers soon get used to.
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I picked up this place here
in the upper floor
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so that I can look at the scenery.
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Because if I'm downstairs, there
are only trees, trees, trees.
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Now I can see the scenery here.
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00:04:30,800 --> 00:04:32,960
But if the view doesn't
interest you,
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you can always visit the train's
dedicated playroom.
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00:04:36,960 --> 00:04:40,000
Isla loves travelling
in the train.
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ISLA SPEAKS INDISTINCTLY
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On board today are a mixture of
families, tourists and commuters.
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I live in Helsinki, but
I work in Kuopio.
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So, I take this train,
like, once a week.
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We just really loved
travelling by train. Yeah.
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And, yeah, especially during the
winter, it's really beautiful.
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Among the passengers is Finnish
rail historian Sakari Salu.
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00:05:04,960 --> 00:05:08,960
When Finland got its
first railway, 1862,
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we were a part of Russian Empire.
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00:05:11,960 --> 00:05:15,960
This time it was very hard
time for Finnish people.
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00:05:16,960 --> 00:05:22,000
We had very, very cold summers
and people were suffering.
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00:05:22,000 --> 00:05:26,960
During the 1860s, when the early
railways were being built,
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Finland was in the midst
of a devastating famine.
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They were hungry and there
were many diseases
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because people were not
in strong health.
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And there were many people who died.
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Half a century later, in 1917,
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Finland gained its
independence from Russia.
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But even today, its trains still
retain the wider Russian gauge.
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00:05:58,960 --> 00:06:02,960
The impetus behind the new
railways was economic
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00:06:02,960 --> 00:06:07,960
to support what was then Finland's
most important industry, timber.
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First, it was only the raw
material which was transported
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to foreign countries.
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00:06:14,960 --> 00:06:19,960
Nowadays, the wood is still one
of our main materials.
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00:06:21,160 --> 00:06:25,000
At its height, pulp, paper and wood
from Finland's forests
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made up 80% of its exports,
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most of it transported to
the coast by train.
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So, we can say that our forests
are good for the railways...
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..and the economy.
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Passengers, next stop Mikkeli.
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I hope a nice day to everyone
who is getting off in Mikkeli.
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From Mikkeli a branch line takes
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you past a disused station that's
almost literally frozen in time.
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00:07:00,960 --> 00:07:03,960
I call this place my time capsule.
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This is our station's office.
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00:07:07,960 --> 00:07:11,960
This is interop system from 1956,
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the only in Finland working.
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00:07:15,960 --> 00:07:19,480
There are now green light
for a train, which is going south.
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00:07:22,480 --> 00:07:26,960
Rail enthusiast Pietari bought
Kalvitsa's old railway buildings
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00:07:26,960 --> 00:07:31,960
in 2009 and has worked hard
to take it back to its heyday.
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00:07:31,960 --> 00:07:35,960
This was empty
building. when I bought this
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00:07:35,960 --> 00:07:40,480
and now this is a bit
like wonderland from '60s.
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I'm a little boy here again.
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This is Telex.
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It's like e-mail today.
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In railways, they could send
messages using this.
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PHONE RINGS
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This telephone system is from
'70s and it's fully working.
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00:08:07,320 --> 00:08:11,960
These chairs are from
'60s, from Finnish trains.
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00:08:11,960 --> 00:08:14,960
These are from 65
and these from 1960.
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00:08:14,960 --> 00:08:18,960
And people can sit and
drink coffee or tea.
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00:08:20,480 --> 00:08:24,960
In fact, Pietari's vintage
station cafe has proved so popular
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it's become the social hub
of the village.
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00:08:28,960 --> 00:08:32,960
I think this cafe is
unique in a way, like,
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where can you find
places like this?
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00:08:36,320 --> 00:08:40,960
This place reminds people that
older times were happy times.
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As our train heads north, it
now enters the heart of Finland,
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a place filled with vast frozen
lakes and forests
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where man has had to learn to live
hand in hand with nature.
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Finnish look after the forest and
forest look after that Finnish.
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00:09:16,320 --> 00:09:19,960
We're at the second stage of our
train journey through Finland.
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00:09:19,960 --> 00:09:24,000
From Helsinki, we travelled
170 miles to Mikkeli.
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00:09:25,960 --> 00:09:29,960
Now we continue north
towards the city of Kuopio.
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00:09:32,960 --> 00:09:36,960
Even though Finland is about 25%
bigger than the UK,
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its population is just 5.5 million,
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making it one of the most sparsely
populated countries in Europe.
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So, there's plenty of space.
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The quietness and just the nature.
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And the fact you don't see in any
houses for a long time when
you travel,
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I think that's something that
is special and worth preserving.
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00:10:04,960 --> 00:10:06,960
On either side of the tracks,
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enormous pine, spruce and birch
forests stretch into the distance.
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Over half are privately owned.
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00:10:18,960 --> 00:10:21,960
In fact, one in ten Finns
own a forest.
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00:10:23,960 --> 00:10:29,960
My family has lived here
in this area about 320 years.
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Jukka Karvonen is the
descendant of at least ten
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00:10:33,960 --> 00:10:35,960
generations of foresters.
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00:10:35,960 --> 00:10:38,960
This is my family
and my relatives here.
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In this picture, we see
very heavy logs, very big logs.
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They only have their hands
to carry them over 100 kilos.
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Just have to...
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You can see how hard work it was.
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Even as a young boy, Jukka
was soon put to work.
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00:11:04,480 --> 00:11:09,320
These trees, I plant them
when I was ten years old.
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00:11:09,320 --> 00:11:13,960
It was hard work to have to stay
here and plant this forest.
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Over three days, Jukka planted
more than 1,000 saplings.
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00:11:19,960 --> 00:11:21,960
When you look at it now,
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I don't regret that I have this
few days working here.
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I'm proud of it.
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It's makes me some way emotional.
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But they still are young trees.
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It will be another 20 years before
Jukka's trees are ready
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to be cut down.
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Something, rather surprisingly
for a forester,
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he's not looking forward to.
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When you know that yourself
you planted it.
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They were so small and
they are now so big.
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I have to fight it inside me with
myself, what shall I do this forest?
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Do I cut it or do I let it grow?
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00:12:03,960 --> 00:12:06,960
But as planting trees is
always a long-term investment,
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Jukka probably won't
have to make that decision.
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00:12:10,960 --> 00:12:13,000
When you think about forestry
owning,
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00:12:13,000 --> 00:12:20,960
we don't work for ourself,
but those who come after us.
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My grandparents plants the
trees I harvest
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and I plant the trees my
grandchild harvest.
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For Jukka, forestry is not only
in HIS blood,
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but also Finland's.
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Finnish people have the most
emotional contact in the land.
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I can say that Finnish
are safe in forest.
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Finnish look after the forest and
forest look after the Finnish.
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When you have forest, it gives
you perspective for your whole life.
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Working as a forester is tough
and demanding, especially
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since the best time to fell trees
is in the depths of winter.
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00:13:18,960 --> 00:13:23,800
Luckily, over the past 40 years,
the equipment has improved.
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This takes care of everything.
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00:13:26,960 --> 00:13:30,960
It's so much easier today
with these modern machines to do
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00:13:30,960 --> 00:13:32,960
the job which I am doing now.
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00:13:34,480 --> 00:13:39,480
100 years ago, it took at least
two lumberjacks one hour
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to cut down and load a large spruce.
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Now to fell, de-limb,
cut to length...
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..and load takes just over a minute.
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There was a little bit of
broken wood. I take that away.
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00:14:03,960 --> 00:14:07,960
I love my work, it's
like a jet operator.
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00:14:13,960 --> 00:14:15,960
Today, 25% of Finland's timber
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00:14:15,960 --> 00:14:19,960
is still transported to the paper
mills and ports by train.
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00:14:28,480 --> 00:14:32,960
Our own journey has now reached
the lakeside city of Kuopio,
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00:14:32,960 --> 00:14:35,960
four hours north of Helsinki.
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Kuopio is really a
charming, small city and
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00:14:38,960 --> 00:14:41,960
it's surrounded by Lake Kallavesi,
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so you see water almost everywhere.
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00:14:46,960 --> 00:14:51,960
There are more than
188,000 lakes in Finland.
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00:14:51,960 --> 00:14:55,960
But during the winter, most of them
are covered in around
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00:14:55,960 --> 00:14:56,960
half a metre of ice.
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00:14:58,960 --> 00:15:01,960
Those white places, they are lakes.
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00:15:01,960 --> 00:15:03,960
But if you don't know that
they are lakes,
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you could imagine they are fields.
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00:15:07,960 --> 00:15:08,960
We are used to it.
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00:15:08,960 --> 00:15:13,960
People think that it is not
winter unless it is cold.
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00:15:13,960 --> 00:15:18,960
During the year, temperatures in
Finland can range from minus 30
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00:15:18,960 --> 00:15:21,960
to over 30 degrees Celsius.
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00:15:21,960 --> 00:15:22,960
We have a real winter,
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00:15:22,960 --> 00:15:24,960
we have real summer.
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00:15:24,960 --> 00:15:27,000
We have real autumn and
a real spring.
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00:15:32,960 --> 00:15:36,960
Whatever the season, though,
the Finns do love a sauna.
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00:15:39,960 --> 00:15:42,960
And a short walk from
the Kuopio station
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brings you to one of
the city's busiest.
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00:15:46,320 --> 00:15:50,960
Saunas are so popular in Finland
that there are more than two million
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00:15:50,960 --> 00:15:53,480
across the country.
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Almost one for every two Finns.
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00:15:58,960 --> 00:16:02,960
And once you've warmed up,
it's time for a refreshing dip...
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00:16:06,640 --> 00:16:09,960
..even when Lake Kallavesi's
frozen over.
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00:16:11,960 --> 00:16:16,960
The temperature is right now, I
think it's lower than zero.
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00:16:16,960 --> 00:16:18,960
And it's quite cold.
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00:16:23,960 --> 00:16:26,960
A pump has to be used to keep
the icy waters moving.
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00:16:28,960 --> 00:16:31,320
Without it, the surface
would soon freeze.
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00:16:36,960 --> 00:16:38,960
Some people, they think I'm crazy a
little bit.
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00:16:40,960 --> 00:16:43,960
I think it's quite traditional
for Finnish people.
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00:16:43,960 --> 00:16:47,960
Finns, though, swear by the
healing effects of a hot sauna
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followed by a cold plunge.
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I feel very well when I do this.
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I feel more alive.
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00:16:56,960 --> 00:16:59,960
I have done this about 20 years.
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00:16:59,960 --> 00:17:02,960
Said to increase blood flow
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00:17:02,960 --> 00:17:07,800
and reduce aches and pains, as well
as release a flood of endorphins,
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00:17:07,800 --> 00:17:11,960
around 100,000 Finns take a sauna
and ice-cold dip like this
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00:17:11,960 --> 00:17:13,960
at least once a week.
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00:17:13,960 --> 00:17:15,960
We are crazy. We are Finnish.
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00:17:15,960 --> 00:17:17,960
So that's normal.
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00:17:25,960 --> 00:17:28,960
Just a mile and a half
from Kuopio station
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00:17:28,960 --> 00:17:31,960
is the city's most famous
landmark, Puijo Tower.
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00:17:33,960 --> 00:17:40,960
Opened in 1963 and 75 metres high,
a revolving restaurant at the top
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00:17:40,960 --> 00:17:43,960
offers diners fine Finnish food
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00:17:43,960 --> 00:17:46,960
as well as a 360-degree view
237
00:17:46,960 --> 00:17:48,960
of the lake, forests and ski jumps.
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00:17:50,960 --> 00:17:54,320
This goes around like once
per every hour,
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00:17:54,320 --> 00:17:56,960
so the rotation of the
restaurant is one hour, so
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00:17:56,960 --> 00:18:01,160
you can see different scenery when
you're having a nice dinner here.
241
00:18:01,160 --> 00:18:04,960
The food that we serve here at
Puijo Tower Restaurant
242
00:18:04,960 --> 00:18:07,960
is all locally produced,
at least from Finland.
243
00:18:07,960 --> 00:18:12,960
We forage mushrooms, wild herbs,
and then all the fish comes
244
00:18:12,960 --> 00:18:15,960
from the lake that's
surrounding us.
245
00:18:15,960 --> 00:18:18,960
Fishing in lakes and foraging in
forests for wild mushrooms
246
00:18:18,960 --> 00:18:23,960
and arctic berries is a popular
pastime across the whole of Finland.
247
00:18:25,960 --> 00:18:28,000
And today we are serving our main
course up of a white perch
248
00:18:28,000 --> 00:18:31,800
from Lake Kallavesi.
So, about 3km away from here.
249
00:18:31,800 --> 00:18:33,960
and the garnish for that
is the potato.
250
00:18:33,960 --> 00:18:37,960
And the potatoes come
from about 15km away.
251
00:18:37,960 --> 00:18:40,960
And it's served also with
pickled carrots
252
00:18:40,960 --> 00:18:42,480
and a chevril butter sauce.
253
00:18:42,480 --> 00:18:46,000
It's been really nice to know just
how much people actually appreciate
254
00:18:46,000 --> 00:18:49,800
the local ingredients and
kind of traditional recipes.
255
00:18:53,960 --> 00:18:57,960
After Kuopio, our double-decker
inter city continues north,
256
00:18:57,960 --> 00:19:01,960
travelling through Finland's lake
district towards the Kainuu region,
257
00:19:01,960 --> 00:19:07,160
around the top of Lake Oulujarvi
and on towards the city of Olou
258
00:19:07,160 --> 00:19:09,640
and the Baltic coast.
259
00:19:09,640 --> 00:19:14,160
It is pretty much forests and lakes,
but the lakes are spectacular.
260
00:19:14,160 --> 00:19:17,960
With an area of 358 square miles,
261
00:19:17,960 --> 00:19:21,960
Lake Oulujarvi is more than 66 times
262
00:19:21,960 --> 00:19:24,960
the size of England's
biggest, Windermere,
263
00:19:24,960 --> 00:19:28,800
and it's only the fifth
largest in Finland.
264
00:19:28,800 --> 00:19:31,960
We have one of the biggest lakes.
265
00:19:31,960 --> 00:19:36,960
Somebody says that it's a kind
of sea, but it's only a lake.
266
00:19:38,960 --> 00:19:41,960
Pasi grew up near the
shores of Lake Oulujarvi.
267
00:19:43,960 --> 00:19:47,960
This is a beach. We always
swimming in the summertime.
268
00:19:49,960 --> 00:19:52,960
I think that this very
beautiful landscapes in here.
269
00:19:52,960 --> 00:19:57,800
We have many hills, lakes
and rivers in this area.
270
00:19:58,960 --> 00:20:01,960
The lakes and rivers may look
beautiful even in winter.
271
00:20:01,960 --> 00:20:05,960
But for the builders of this section
of railway, they were a nightmare.
272
00:20:07,960 --> 00:20:10,960
It takes so many years to build this
273
00:20:10,960 --> 00:20:14,960
because there are many
rivers to bridge
274
00:20:14,960 --> 00:20:17,960
and of course, we have many swamps.
275
00:20:19,960 --> 00:20:24,960
The line between here and the coast
is just over 100 miles long.
276
00:20:29,160 --> 00:20:31,960
But because the terrain
is so awkward,
277
00:20:31,960 --> 00:20:34,640
it took five years to complete.
278
00:20:36,960 --> 00:20:39,960
Today, though, all the
hard work's forgotten
279
00:20:39,960 --> 00:20:43,960
and our fellow passengers
simply enjoy the view.
280
00:20:45,960 --> 00:20:49,960
Every time I pass lakes, it's
like every time you get,
281
00:20:49,960 --> 00:20:52,960
like, a different kind of a
scenery and it's beautiful.
282
00:21:02,960 --> 00:21:06,960
Four hours and 17 minutes
after leaving Kuopio,
283
00:21:06,960 --> 00:21:08,960
our train arrives in the
city of Olou.
284
00:21:13,960 --> 00:21:18,160
It's also the base for the
region's biggest rail yard.
285
00:21:18,160 --> 00:21:23,960
This depot is running
24-7, 365 days per year.
286
00:21:23,960 --> 00:21:27,960
So, basically, we are always
here for maintaining trains.
287
00:21:30,480 --> 00:21:33,960
After travelling the icy lakes
and snow-covered forests
288
00:21:33,960 --> 00:21:34,960
of central Finland,
289
00:21:34,960 --> 00:21:38,960
it's time for our train to
receive some much-needed attention.
290
00:21:41,640 --> 00:21:43,960
I am taking snow off the train.
291
00:21:43,960 --> 00:21:48,960
It takes, like, one hour to two
hours to clean one sector.
292
00:21:48,960 --> 00:21:54,640
Despite appearances, the vast amount
of snow and ice stuck to the bottom
293
00:21:54,640 --> 00:21:58,960
of the train is not a problem
for Yoonas and his team.
294
00:21:58,960 --> 00:22:01,960
Basically, with the snow
and ice, we are fine,
295
00:22:01,960 --> 00:22:03,960
but the humidity in, like,
296
00:22:03,960 --> 00:22:07,960
an air system is quite a
big problem for us.
297
00:22:09,160 --> 00:22:13,960
Over our 650-mile journey north
from Helsinki to Lapland,
298
00:22:13,960 --> 00:22:16,960
the outside
temperature will drop so much
299
00:22:16,960 --> 00:22:20,320
that it can cause major
brake failure.
300
00:22:20,320 --> 00:22:23,960
Finland is a quite long
country that when we start
301
00:22:23,960 --> 00:22:27,960
running from Helsinki it
could be like plus five.
302
00:22:27,960 --> 00:22:30,960
And when you end up,
it could be minus 40.
303
00:22:30,960 --> 00:22:32,960
That's quite difficult for us.
304
00:22:32,960 --> 00:22:36,960
But because brakes
are working by air
305
00:22:36,960 --> 00:22:40,960
and if we have water or
humidity in the brake systems
306
00:22:40,960 --> 00:22:42,960
those will get ice.
307
00:22:42,960 --> 00:22:46,960
If there is condensation or ice
in the air brake system,
308
00:22:46,960 --> 00:22:48,960
our train's wheels could lock.
309
00:22:48,960 --> 00:22:50,960
And then we have problems.
310
00:22:56,960 --> 00:23:00,960
But it's not only the trains
that need regular maintenance.
311
00:23:00,960 --> 00:23:04,960
In Britain, even a sprinkling
of snow can cause delays.
312
00:23:04,960 --> 00:23:08,480
But here in northern Finland,
it's a very different story.
313
00:23:09,960 --> 00:23:12,960
Our job is to keep the train moving.
314
00:23:15,960 --> 00:23:19,960
Keep the snow off the rails,
switches, level crossing.
315
00:23:21,960 --> 00:23:24,960
With temperatures often
as low as minus 30,
316
00:23:24,960 --> 00:23:29,960
Yuha and his colleagues must check
and clear every mile of track.
317
00:23:31,160 --> 00:23:35,960
We're sing the excavators
plus a snow blower.
318
00:23:39,960 --> 00:23:41,320
It's extremely hard work.
319
00:23:42,960 --> 00:23:44,960
All weather, all day.
320
00:23:46,960 --> 00:23:51,960
Once the train and tracks are clear
of ice, it's time for us to leave
321
00:23:51,960 --> 00:23:54,960
Olou and head north into Lapland...
322
00:23:55,960 --> 00:23:58,320
..and across the Arctic Circle.
323
00:24:10,160 --> 00:24:13,960
Our train journey through Finland
has now reached Lapland...
324
00:24:15,960 --> 00:24:18,320
..the country's most
northern region.
325
00:24:20,960 --> 00:24:23,960
Our first stop is the town of Kemi
326
00:24:23,960 --> 00:24:26,960
before we turn to the northeast
for the Arctic Circle
327
00:24:26,960 --> 00:24:29,000
and Lapland's capital, Rovaniemi.
328
00:24:35,960 --> 00:24:39,960
Kemi is the base for enormous
icebreakers,
329
00:24:39,960 --> 00:24:42,960
and just a mile from the railway
station,
330
00:24:42,960 --> 00:24:44,960
the world's biggest snow castle.
331
00:24:46,960 --> 00:24:50,160
This castle, it is made
from sea water.
332
00:24:50,160 --> 00:24:54,960
There is about six million litres
of water in this castle.
333
00:24:56,480 --> 00:24:59,960
This far north, it's so cold that
the giant SnowCastle
334
00:24:59,960 --> 00:25:02,000
can be built out of sea water.
335
00:25:03,960 --> 00:25:08,960
We need minus 70 so we can take
the water from the sea just nearby
336
00:25:08,960 --> 00:25:10,960
and take it through the pumps.
337
00:25:10,960 --> 00:25:14,960
And - PRSH - with the pressure,
we can make the mountain of snow.
338
00:25:14,960 --> 00:25:18,960
The buildings, that can be as large
as 20,000 square metres,
339
00:25:18,960 --> 00:25:21,960
are then created
by spraying the snow
340
00:25:21,960 --> 00:25:24,960
over enormous inflatable bubbles.
341
00:25:24,960 --> 00:25:28,960
And we are putting the snow
on the top of the forms
342
00:25:28,960 --> 00:25:33,800
and then we wait a little bit
and then we take the forms off.
343
00:25:34,960 --> 00:25:38,960
For example, this one, it has been a
very, very big ball
344
00:25:38,960 --> 00:25:40,960
and it was full of air.
345
00:25:40,960 --> 00:25:43,960
And then they are putting
the snow on the top.
346
00:25:43,960 --> 00:25:45,960
And after the snow is hard,
347
00:25:45,960 --> 00:25:48,960
they are just - PIEU -
taking the air off
348
00:25:48,960 --> 00:25:52,960
and take the ball off and we get
a castle shaped like this.
349
00:25:52,960 --> 00:25:56,960
The SnowCastle even
has its very own snow chapel.
350
00:25:56,960 --> 00:26:01,960
This place we are now,
it is our small church.
351
00:26:01,960 --> 00:26:04,000
And every year here in SnowCastle,
352
00:26:04,000 --> 00:26:05,960
many couples are getting married.
353
00:26:05,960 --> 00:26:08,960
That means that your
heart is very warm
354
00:26:08,960 --> 00:26:10,000
if you are getting married here.
355
00:26:10,000 --> 00:26:12,960
Whether it's in the
bedroom or the bar,
356
00:26:12,960 --> 00:26:16,320
each wall has been decorated with
imaginative ice carvings.
357
00:26:19,960 --> 00:26:24,960
And every carving, they have some
meaning, which they are carving.
358
00:26:24,960 --> 00:26:28,000
And this one here, it is a tree
of life, which is connecting
359
00:26:28,000 --> 00:26:30,960
all the people all over the world
360
00:26:30,960 --> 00:26:35,320
because it is in our mythology
here in Finland, it is in Vikings,
361
00:26:35,320 --> 00:26:39,160
it is in Bible and it is in
China and India, everywhere.
362
00:26:39,160 --> 00:26:43,960
Everything here is either made
from snow or carved out of ice,
363
00:26:43,960 --> 00:26:45,960
including the drinking cups.
364
00:26:48,960 --> 00:26:52,960
Once the visitors have left, keeping
the castle snow white,
365
00:26:52,960 --> 00:26:56,960
even after a spilt coffee, involves
a lot more than a quick wipe down.
366
00:26:59,960 --> 00:27:02,960
But like all good things,
the SnowCastle
367
00:27:02,960 --> 00:27:05,000
will eventually come to an end.
368
00:27:05,000 --> 00:27:08,960
And in this case, when the weather
warms up around mid April.
369
00:27:08,960 --> 00:27:13,960
And what is the best of SnowCastle
is that all the snow,
370
00:27:13,960 --> 00:27:15,960
you can see, is recycled.
371
00:27:15,960 --> 00:27:19,960
So, when the summer is
coming, we have to crash this one.
372
00:27:19,960 --> 00:27:23,640
And we are putting it back to
sea and then next year
373
00:27:23,640 --> 00:27:24,960
we are taking it back.
374
00:27:29,960 --> 00:27:34,000
After Kemi, our train journey
leaves the coast and heads inland
375
00:27:34,000 --> 00:27:36,960
towards the capital of Lapland,
376
00:27:36,960 --> 00:27:37,960
Rovaniemi.
377
00:27:40,960 --> 00:27:45,960
Located 66 degrees north,
the city is right on the edge
378
00:27:45,960 --> 00:27:47,960
of the Arctic Circle.
379
00:27:47,960 --> 00:27:52,640
75 years ago, though, Rovaniemi
station was at the very centre
380
00:27:52,640 --> 00:27:54,000
of an enormous explosion.
381
00:27:56,480 --> 00:27:59,960
Local guide Frank
explains what happened.
382
00:27:59,960 --> 00:28:03,480
We have to talk a bit about the war
history, the Second World War.
383
00:28:03,480 --> 00:28:05,960
In 1941, Finland,
384
00:28:05,960 --> 00:28:09,000
terrified that the Soviet Union
might invade from the east,
385
00:28:09,000 --> 00:28:11,960
decided to join forces with Germany.
386
00:28:15,480 --> 00:28:17,640
There are quite many Germans
living in this town.
387
00:28:17,640 --> 00:28:19,960
Actually, the town doubled in size
during the Second World War
388
00:28:19,960 --> 00:28:21,640
because all the soldiers,
389
00:28:21,640 --> 00:28:23,960
they had to live somewhere,
dare to eat somewhere.
390
00:28:23,960 --> 00:28:25,960
So, for local shopkeepers,
this was a great thing.
391
00:28:25,960 --> 00:28:30,960
By June 1944, though, the German
army was on the back foot
392
00:28:30,960 --> 00:28:32,960
and the Russians on the offensive.
393
00:28:32,960 --> 00:28:36,160
In 1944, we knew that the Germans
were going to lose the war.
394
00:28:36,160 --> 00:28:38,960
So Finland had to find
a solution with Russia.
395
00:28:38,960 --> 00:28:40,960
And so we made a peace agreement.
396
00:28:40,960 --> 00:28:44,000
Unfortunately, there were over
200,000 German soldiers
397
00:28:44,000 --> 00:28:46,000
in Finland at the time.
398
00:28:46,000 --> 00:28:50,960
And feeling betrayed, they weren't
leaving without a fight.
399
00:28:50,960 --> 00:28:52,960
This is not the original
Rovaniemi station.
400
00:28:52,960 --> 00:28:55,960
The station that we had
before was blown up.
401
00:28:58,800 --> 00:29:01,960
The original station, there was
ammunition train parked next to it.
402
00:29:01,960 --> 00:29:05,960
And when the train blew up,
that explosion was enormous.
403
00:29:05,960 --> 00:29:07,960
The previous station just
disappeared completely.
404
00:29:09,960 --> 00:29:11,960
Was it the Germans who blew it up?
405
00:29:11,960 --> 00:29:13,960
Was it the Finnish army
who blew it up?
406
00:29:13,960 --> 00:29:15,000
We still don't know.
407
00:29:16,960 --> 00:29:21,960
The station wasn't the only casualty
of the German withdrawal.
408
00:29:21,960 --> 00:29:24,960
When the Germans retreated, they
destroyed the whole city.
409
00:29:24,960 --> 00:29:26,960
It was either burned or bombed.
410
00:29:26,960 --> 00:29:30,960
So, over 90% of the buildings
in this town were destroyed.
411
00:29:31,960 --> 00:29:34,960
When the first people arrived
after the Germans have left,
412
00:29:34,960 --> 00:29:35,960
they called this town
the Chimney Point
413
00:29:35,960 --> 00:29:38,960
because the chimneys were the
only things left standing.
414
00:29:38,960 --> 00:29:41,960
All the wooden houses were either
bombed or burned down.
415
00:29:51,960 --> 00:29:56,960
Once the war was over, Finland's
most famous architect, Alvar Aalto,
416
00:29:56,960 --> 00:30:00,960
was given the task of
rebuilding Rovaniemi.
417
00:30:00,960 --> 00:30:02,960
But besides designing
the actual buildings,
418
00:30:02,960 --> 00:30:05,960
he also designed
the layout of the town.
419
00:30:05,960 --> 00:30:09,480
And it was while planning
the layout that Aalto noticed
420
00:30:09,480 --> 00:30:14,960
something unusual, that the land,
roads, rivers and railways
421
00:30:14,960 --> 00:30:18,640
created the shape of a
reindeer's head.
422
00:30:18,640 --> 00:30:23,960
So, as the reindeer is the symbol
of Lapland, Rovaniemi, its capital,
423
00:30:23,960 --> 00:30:25,960
it was worth highlighting.
424
00:30:25,960 --> 00:30:26,960
It's quite cool.
425
00:30:26,960 --> 00:30:28,960
It really looks like a reindeer.
426
00:30:28,960 --> 00:30:31,960
And over here we see the
eye of the reindeer,
427
00:30:31,960 --> 00:30:33,960
that is the soccer stadium.
428
00:30:35,960 --> 00:30:40,960
Today, it has grown into a
sprawling city of 63,000 people
429
00:30:40,960 --> 00:30:43,960
with the majestic
Lumberjack's Candle Bridge
430
00:30:43,960 --> 00:30:45,320
dominating its skyline.
431
00:30:46,960 --> 00:30:51,320
Aalto's reindeer head is now
absorbed into the surrounding
suburbs.
432
00:30:52,960 --> 00:30:54,960
I think people at Rovaniemi, they
do know about it,
433
00:30:54,960 --> 00:30:56,960
but it's not really well known,
I would say.
434
00:30:56,960 --> 00:30:59,320
I think if somebody moved to
Rovaniemi, they would be not aware
435
00:30:59,320 --> 00:31:02,160
that actually the street map is
modelled after a reindeer.
436
00:31:02,160 --> 00:31:05,960
The world-renowned
architect Alvar Aalto
437
00:31:05,960 --> 00:31:07,960
may have had a sense of fun,
438
00:31:07,960 --> 00:31:11,640
but just five miles north
of his new station...
439
00:31:14,960 --> 00:31:17,960
there's the official
Arctic residence
440
00:31:17,960 --> 00:31:19,960
of someone even more fun loving -
441
00:31:19,960 --> 00:31:22,160
Santa Claus.
442
00:31:22,160 --> 00:31:24,960
I'm here at my office
every day of the year.
443
00:31:26,160 --> 00:31:28,960
I'm meeting visitors and my friends.
444
00:31:28,960 --> 00:31:32,960
People are coming here with
their wishes and dreams
445
00:31:32,960 --> 00:31:36,960
and we are talking here
and they have some fun here.
446
00:31:40,000 --> 00:31:42,160
My favourite day of the year?
447
00:31:43,640 --> 00:31:45,960
I think it's every day when I
see happy people.
448
00:31:45,960 --> 00:31:48,960
And I think I see
happy people here every day.
449
00:31:49,960 --> 00:31:52,960
As well as welcoming over half a
million visitors
450
00:31:52,960 --> 00:31:54,960
to his Arctic home each year,
451
00:31:54,960 --> 00:31:58,640
Santa also receives another
half a million letters
452
00:31:58,640 --> 00:32:00,480
from around the world.
453
00:32:00,480 --> 00:32:02,000
Oh, some nice letters.
454
00:32:02,000 --> 00:32:03,960
This is from Italy.
455
00:32:03,960 --> 00:32:05,960
I think that's me.
456
00:32:07,960 --> 00:32:11,960
Every letter addressed to
Father Christmas ends up here.
457
00:32:11,960 --> 00:32:14,640
Well, this is Santa
Claus' main post office.
458
00:32:14,640 --> 00:32:16,000
And I'm a post elf.
459
00:32:16,000 --> 00:32:21,960
And with so many letters to read,
Santa's elves don't just make toys.
460
00:32:21,960 --> 00:32:25,960
Our elves, they are very
well-behaved and hardworking.
461
00:32:25,960 --> 00:32:31,160
In these piles, here, I have
letter from, for example, Italy
462
00:32:31,160 --> 00:32:36,960
and United Kingdom, piles from
Germany, United States, Switzerland.
463
00:32:37,960 --> 00:32:41,480
The letters to Santa Claus,
they come from all over the world.
464
00:32:41,480 --> 00:32:45,960
He has received letters
from over 200 countries.
465
00:32:46,960 --> 00:32:49,960
So, we are definitely not
sitting with our feet up.
466
00:32:54,960 --> 00:32:57,960
But it's not just elves
that are kept busy.
467
00:32:59,960 --> 00:33:03,000
When they're not pulling Santa,
Rudolph and his fellow reindeers
468
00:33:03,000 --> 00:33:05,960
are happy to take you out for
a spin through the snow.
469
00:33:10,000 --> 00:33:13,960
And if you can't make it on the
train journey to Santa's home,
470
00:33:13,960 --> 00:33:16,320
don't worry, you won't be forgotten.
471
00:33:16,320 --> 00:33:18,960
Now, you, I mean just you there.
472
00:33:18,960 --> 00:33:22,960
I remember you have been quite
good last year,
473
00:33:22,960 --> 00:33:25,000
but I hope you're going to be
good this year too.
474
00:33:25,000 --> 00:33:27,960
So, behave and have fun.
475
00:33:27,960 --> 00:33:29,960
See you at Christmas.
476
00:33:35,960 --> 00:33:38,960
We're now only 54 miles
from our final destination.
477
00:33:43,800 --> 00:33:45,960
And as we venture across the
Arctic Circle,
478
00:33:45,960 --> 00:33:47,960
we have a first-class view.
479
00:33:48,960 --> 00:33:51,960
When the sun is rising,
it's beautiful.
480
00:33:51,960 --> 00:33:53,800
Yes, I love it, my job.
481
00:34:02,960 --> 00:34:06,960
We are now at the final stage of our
epic train journey through Finland.
482
00:34:08,960 --> 00:34:13,960
From Rovaniemi, we will travel 54
miles northeast towards the town
483
00:34:13,960 --> 00:34:18,160
of Kemijarvi, a gateway to
Lapland's wild open spaces.
484
00:34:21,960 --> 00:34:23,960
It's 7am and minus 18 degrees.
485
00:34:26,960 --> 00:34:30,960
Our river, Mikko, is about to
carry out his final checks.
486
00:34:31,960 --> 00:34:34,960
Yeah, everything looks OK.
487
00:34:34,960 --> 00:34:36,960
PHONE RINGS
488
00:34:36,960 --> 00:34:38,960
SPEAKS IN OWN LANGUAGE
489
00:34:40,960 --> 00:34:42,960
CONTROL:
490
00:34:47,960 --> 00:34:48,960
We're good to go now.
491
00:34:53,960 --> 00:34:58,160
Soon sparks fly as our electric
train rushes through the ice
and snow.
492
00:35:00,960 --> 00:35:05,960
This time of the year, the typical
temperature is running
493
00:35:05,960 --> 00:35:10,960
between minus 15 and
minus 35 degrees.
494
00:35:12,960 --> 00:35:15,960
Over the next hour, Mikko
will drive our train through some
495
00:35:15,960 --> 00:35:18,320
of Finland's most stunning scenery.
496
00:35:19,800 --> 00:35:25,960
Yeah, it's nice to drive the
train when the sun is rising.
497
00:35:25,960 --> 00:35:27,800
It's beautiful.
498
00:35:27,800 --> 00:35:28,960
Yes, I love it, my job.
499
00:35:33,960 --> 00:35:36,960
The surrounding
forests might seem quiet,
500
00:35:36,960 --> 00:35:39,960
but our driver can't afford
to be complacent.
501
00:35:39,960 --> 00:35:44,960
I need to keep my focus on the
railways all the time
502
00:35:44,960 --> 00:35:50,160
because we have lots
of animals here.
503
00:35:50,160 --> 00:35:55,960
In Lapland, there are around 200,000
reindeer roaming through the snowy
woodland.
504
00:35:55,960 --> 00:35:59,960
Very often, we see reindeers
on the track.
505
00:35:59,960 --> 00:36:03,480
Very dangerous accidents
happen too, often.
506
00:36:05,960 --> 00:36:08,960
No reindeers on the track so far.
507
00:36:08,960 --> 00:36:10,320
And that is good.
508
00:36:10,320 --> 00:36:12,960
Today, our train provides
a vital link
509
00:36:12,960 --> 00:36:15,960
between Lapland's
capital, Rovaniemi,
510
00:36:15,960 --> 00:36:18,960
and the small lakeside
town of Kemijarvi,
511
00:36:18,960 --> 00:36:24,000
a place so dependent on the railway
that its economy would soon collapse
512
00:36:24,000 --> 00:36:25,960
if the track were closed.
513
00:36:27,960 --> 00:36:30,960
A few years ago, though,
the government decided
514
00:36:30,960 --> 00:36:32,960
to do just that.
515
00:36:32,960 --> 00:36:37,960
In 2005, there was a horrible
news in the radio and TV.
516
00:36:37,960 --> 00:36:41,160
They will have stopped all
train traffic from Rovaniemi
517
00:36:41,160 --> 00:36:43,480
to Kemijarvi.
518
00:36:43,480 --> 00:36:45,960
No goods traffic, no timber traffic.
519
00:36:45,960 --> 00:36:47,960
Everything stopped.
520
00:36:47,960 --> 00:36:49,960
Economically, problems.
521
00:36:49,960 --> 00:36:51,480
Problems with tourists.
522
00:36:51,480 --> 00:36:52,960
Everything.
523
00:36:52,960 --> 00:36:56,960
It was horrible news,
what's happened. Oh, boy.
524
00:36:56,960 --> 00:37:00,960
With new electric trains being
introduced throughout the country,
525
00:37:00,960 --> 00:37:03,960
this old track would need
converting.
526
00:37:04,960 --> 00:37:08,160
But as far as the government-run
railways are concerned,
527
00:37:08,160 --> 00:37:10,960
it simply wasn't worth it.
528
00:37:10,960 --> 00:37:12,960
They say that it's too expensive.
529
00:37:12,960 --> 00:37:15,960
We felt that the
government had forgot us.
530
00:37:17,800 --> 00:37:18,960
That was the feeling.
531
00:37:21,960 --> 00:37:24,960
Realising the end of the
railway would be a catastrophe
532
00:37:24,960 --> 00:37:27,960
for their town, the locals
decided to fight back.
533
00:37:29,960 --> 00:37:34,960
Two businesswomen began to contact,
everywhere, politics, media
534
00:37:34,960 --> 00:37:38,960
and then began the railway
rebellion.
535
00:37:38,960 --> 00:37:40,640
The message was to government,
536
00:37:40,640 --> 00:37:44,800
"Don't forget Lapland, don't cut
the railways off from Lapland.
537
00:37:44,800 --> 00:37:45,960
"We need the railways."
538
00:37:46,960 --> 00:37:50,960
Despite their pleas, the government
decided they could afford
539
00:37:50,960 --> 00:37:52,480
to forget Lapland.
540
00:37:53,960 --> 00:37:59,960
In December, 2006, the last train
from Kemijarvi left the station.
541
00:38:01,960 --> 00:38:03,960
A very sad day.
542
00:38:04,960 --> 00:38:07,960
Abandoned by the government,
Kemijarvi
543
00:38:07,960 --> 00:38:12,960
and its 7,500 residents now
faced a very uncertain future.
544
00:38:16,960 --> 00:38:18,480
With the local economy crashing,
545
00:38:18,480 --> 00:38:20,960
young residents began to leave.
546
00:38:20,960 --> 00:38:23,960
It was clear the small
town was dying.
547
00:38:25,960 --> 00:38:30,960
Then two years later,
something unexpected happened.
548
00:38:39,960 --> 00:38:45,640
First March, 2008, a new fine night
train came to Kemijarvi.
549
00:38:45,640 --> 00:38:47,960
And it was a wonderful festival in
Kemijarvi.
550
00:38:47,960 --> 00:38:49,960
It was so positive.
551
00:38:49,960 --> 00:38:51,960
A very great surprise.
552
00:38:53,960 --> 00:38:58,960
Their railway rebellion HAD made
an impression after all.
553
00:38:58,960 --> 00:39:01,960
The railway station was
full of people.
554
00:39:01,960 --> 00:39:03,960
Hundreds of hundred people
555
00:39:03,960 --> 00:39:06,960
were welcoming the new
night train from Helsinki.
556
00:39:06,960 --> 00:39:08,480
It was a miracle.
557
00:39:09,320 --> 00:39:12,960
The town of Kemijarvi was
finally back on the rail map.
558
00:39:14,160 --> 00:39:16,960
We are now approaching to Kemijarvi.
559
00:39:16,960 --> 00:39:19,960
And it's our last stop.
560
00:39:19,960 --> 00:39:22,960
In schedule, right on time.
561
00:39:40,960 --> 00:39:43,960
For Kemijarvi, the train
is the town's main link
562
00:39:43,960 --> 00:39:45,960
to the outside world.
563
00:39:46,960 --> 00:39:51,960
In fact, anyone who moves
here is known as a Junantuomat,
564
00:39:51,960 --> 00:39:53,800
a train traveller like Tytti.
565
00:39:54,960 --> 00:39:56,960
So, we are now on top of Suoma,
566
00:39:56,960 --> 00:39:59,960
it's the ski resort here
in Kemijarvi.
567
00:39:59,960 --> 00:40:01,960
And it's our diamond.
568
00:40:03,480 --> 00:40:07,960
Like our own train journey, Tytti
left the busy streets and crowds
569
00:40:07,960 --> 00:40:10,960
of Helsinki and travelled
north through Finland
570
00:40:10,960 --> 00:40:13,160
to enjoy the wild beauty of Lapland.
571
00:40:14,000 --> 00:40:15,960
You can see the lakes forests.
572
00:40:15,960 --> 00:40:20,480
It's just something that
you cannot explain by words.
573
00:40:20,480 --> 00:40:22,160
You have to experience that.
574
00:40:23,960 --> 00:40:26,960
Here, even the trees are
different than the other places.
575
00:40:26,960 --> 00:40:29,960
Here you can see all the trees
are covered by snow.
576
00:40:33,800 --> 00:40:34,960
This is my paradise here.
577
00:40:34,960 --> 00:40:37,960
So I never could imagine to
leave this place.
578
00:40:52,320 --> 00:40:55,800
It's a kind of
relaxing way of life.
579
00:40:59,960 --> 00:41:04,640
In Finland, everyone is allowed
to roam wherever they wish.
580
00:41:07,000 --> 00:41:10,800
It's known as the Everyman's Rights.
581
00:41:10,800 --> 00:41:12,960
And here, in Kemijarvi,
582
00:41:12,960 --> 00:41:15,960
there's so much space and
so few people,
583
00:41:15,960 --> 00:41:18,160
just two for every square kilometre,
584
00:41:18,160 --> 00:41:21,640
you can walk across
enormous frozen lakes
585
00:41:21,640 --> 00:41:24,320
without meeting a single soul.
586
00:41:24,320 --> 00:41:26,960
It's not crowded here
like in Helsinki.
587
00:41:26,960 --> 00:41:28,960
So it's totally different.
588
00:41:30,960 --> 00:41:34,000
Kemijarvi might be literally
the end of the line,
589
00:41:34,000 --> 00:41:37,960
but with its wide-open landscapes
and little light pollution,
590
00:41:37,960 --> 00:41:41,960
there's also a good chance of
spotting one of nature's
591
00:41:41,960 --> 00:41:43,960
most extraordinary displays.
592
00:41:45,960 --> 00:41:47,960
For the first time when I saw
the northern lights,
593
00:41:47,960 --> 00:41:52,960
I was walking with my dogs and
suddenly I looked up onto the sky
594
00:41:52,960 --> 00:41:54,480
and there their were.
595
00:41:55,960 --> 00:42:00,960
In Lapland, the aurora borealis
can be seen on clear nights any time
596
00:42:00,960 --> 00:42:02,960
between September and March.
597
00:42:05,960 --> 00:42:07,960
The northern lights, they were
really dancing.
598
00:42:07,960 --> 00:42:09,160
It was amazing.
599
00:42:13,960 --> 00:42:16,960
Our train has travelled the length
of a country through some
600
00:42:16,960 --> 00:42:18,960
of the harshest conditions.
601
00:42:22,480 --> 00:42:24,960
A route that was not
only essential for foresters,
602
00:42:24,960 --> 00:42:28,960
but also the economy
and success of Finland.
603
00:42:33,960 --> 00:42:36,960
Providing a vital link between
remote communities
604
00:42:36,960 --> 00:42:40,960
in some of the most
stunning winter landscapes.
605
00:42:44,640 --> 00:42:47,000
The trip from Helsinki to
the Arctic Circle,
606
00:42:47,000 --> 00:42:51,000
a journey taken straight
out of the perfect picture book.
607
00:43:20,960 --> 00:43:23,960
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