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Escape with us on an unforgettable
500 mile voyage...
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The landscape now, it begins to
change.
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00:00:11,640 --> 00:00:13,160
It just changes your mood.
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..on a beautiful vintage train.
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00:00:16,960 --> 00:00:17,960
A journey back in time...
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..to old British battlefields...
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The area is referred to as
the Acre of Massacre.
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..and prehistoric cave paintings.
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This figure is not completely human.
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We relive train travel of
a bygone era.
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Ah it's the best...in the world.
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00:00:34,960 --> 00:00:36,960
TRAIN WHISTLE TOOTS
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From ancient folklore
to the modern day.
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We drink for results, not for taste.
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We meet the people who work and live
along this special line.
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If you can work and travel, I think
that's the best combination.
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00:00:53,960 --> 00:00:56,960
Before arriving in
Durban on the Indian Ocean.
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This is no ordinary railway journey.
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This is one of the most scenic train
journeys in the world, South Africa.
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Our journey starts in Pretoria
at the beautiful Rovos station.
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Home to a railway dynasty...
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..the Vos family, who have been
offering luxury train
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travel since 1989.
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When my dad was starting
the business, he was absolutely
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in love with steam locomotion.
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It was what actually got him
interested in trains to begin with.
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Founder Rohan Vos had more than just
a passion for steam locomotion.
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He built a railway empire
of over 450 staff that includes
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the private train station
and a depot full of old locomotives,
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engines and carriages
from different eras.
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Thank you very much. Enjoy.
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We're starting our journey with an
1800 horsepower diesel class
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35 engine built in Australia
in the 1980s.
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This is our train.
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It's 14 carriages long,
but surprisingly, it's one
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of the shorter trains here.
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At Rovos Rail, luxury train travel
is taken to another level.
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The train is a five-star hotel
on wheels.
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This is going to be the passengers'
home over the next three days.
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Staff are getting the train ready
for our journey
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from Pretoria to Durban.
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Deputy manager Khangwelo is making
last-minute checks.
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We've got different departments.
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We've got a laundry, kitchen
passage, the bar, dining rooms.
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So you have to be hands-on in
all departments
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when you're on the train as deputy.
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Rohan now wants us to leave at 9:00.
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Thank you.
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Train manager Adam is taking one
last look to ensure everything
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is ready in time for departure.
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My deputy manager we'll do it
as well, but I'm also giving it
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a once over while I'm going through.
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Listen, Rohan wants the train to
leave at 9:00.
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Everything looks perfect.
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So we ready to roll with the guests.
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As the lost suitcases are safely
stowed away, it's time for everyone
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to get on board.
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Themba, Themba. Come in, please,
Themba.
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INDISTINCT RADIO SPEECH
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Themba, there we go. Everyone's
on board.
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When you're ready, you can
pull forward.
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TRAIN HORN BLARES
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Thank you.
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00:04:11,960 --> 00:04:15,960
We are now going to Durban, this is
the beginning of our journey.
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00:04:32,960 --> 00:04:35,160
The first leg of the journey
takes us out of Pretoria,
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past Johannesburg, to Elandslaagte
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to our first stop,
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The Nambiti Private Game Reserve.
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From there, we continue towards the
majestic Drakensberg Mountains
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00:04:47,960 --> 00:04:49,960
to Ladysmith and the famous
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Spion Kop battlefield.
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00:04:52,960 --> 00:04:56,960
Then onwards to explore
Lions River Station and see
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00:04:56,960 --> 00:04:57,960
some ancient art.
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00:04:59,640 --> 00:05:03,320
Finally, we travel through
the Valley of a Thousand Hills
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00:05:03,320 --> 00:05:06,960
to our destination, Durban,
by the Indian Ocean.
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00:05:11,960 --> 00:05:16,960
Right outside Pretoria, we change
to two class 18E electric engines
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to join the main line that
Rovos Rail shares with the
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South African Railways Network.
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These 1500 horsepower locos
are built locally
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00:05:26,160 --> 00:05:27,960
by Transnet Engineering.
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00:05:32,960 --> 00:05:36,960
It's only 500 miles from Pretoria
to Durban,
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but no-one is in a hurry
to get there too quickly.
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Travelling on average
at only 25mph,
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00:05:45,480 --> 00:05:47,960
this is not about speed.
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00:05:47,960 --> 00:05:50,960
Here we go. Thank you.
You're very, very welcome.
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00:05:50,960 --> 00:05:54,960
It's about luxury train travel
and enjoying time onboard.
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00:06:02,320 --> 00:06:07,960
Claire, from Staffordshire
is travelling with her husband, Ian.
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00:06:07,960 --> 00:06:11,960
I'm looking forward to seeing
a little bit more of South Africa.
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00:06:11,960 --> 00:06:13,960
I've never visited
South Africa before.
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00:06:13,960 --> 00:06:17,960
I'm looking forward to the
absolute luxury and pampering
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00:06:17,960 --> 00:06:21,000
that It am experiencing on the
train, which is amazing.
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00:06:25,320 --> 00:06:28,960
All these beautiful carriages
have a story to tell.
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00:06:33,960 --> 00:06:37,960
They were once part of old
and forgotten trains, often found
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00:06:37,960 --> 00:06:41,960
on scrap yards around the world
and shipped to Pretoria,
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00:06:41,960 --> 00:06:45,960
where they are painstakingly
restored at the Rovos depot.
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00:06:47,960 --> 00:06:52,960
Dedication and ingenuity
go hand-in-hand at the workshops.
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00:06:52,960 --> 00:06:55,960
Nothing goes to waste at Rovos HQ.
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Don't throw things away.
Don't cut things up.
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00:07:00,320 --> 00:07:02,960
You know, if you don't have
immediate use for it, put
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00:07:02,960 --> 00:07:04,160
it under a shed somewhere
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00:07:04,160 --> 00:07:07,960
and someone like us some way
will come across it and bring it
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00:07:07,960 --> 00:07:11,960
back to life and really get people
to enjoy it.
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00:07:11,960 --> 00:07:15,960
Joe has been working at Rovos Rail
for over 30 years.
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00:07:16,960 --> 00:07:20,480
This is a 1924 dining car originally
105
00:07:20,480 --> 00:07:23,960
and it was a 44-seater dining car.
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We converted it into an
observation car.
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00:07:27,160 --> 00:07:28,960
We took that wall, we put it in
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so that we can have an open-air
balcony.
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The workshops at Rovos depot
are a train aficionado's heaven.
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250 highly-trained staff lovingly
restore the vintage
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carriages and engines.
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00:07:43,960 --> 00:07:47,960
Among the fleet are four steam
locomotives, named
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after the children of Rohan Vos.
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We have some of the most experienced
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steam locomotive technicians
working with us.
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00:07:54,960 --> 00:07:57,960
She's looking like she needs
a real Polish.
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00:07:58,960 --> 00:08:01,960
Tiffany, named after the youngest
daughter, is currently getting
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00:08:01,960 --> 00:08:03,960
a complete makeover.
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00:08:03,960 --> 00:08:07,960
She is one of the oldest working
mainline locos in the world.
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00:08:07,960 --> 00:08:11,960
The class 6 number 439
was built by Dubs and CO
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00:08:11,960 --> 00:08:15,960
Glasgow Locomotive Works in 1893.
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It just makes me feel quite
nostalgic seeing my name there.
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I mean, as children, my dad
would christen the locomotives.
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Just brings back a lot of memories
of being a kid
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00:08:25,960 --> 00:08:28,960
growing up in this crazy
world of railways.
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Our train has travelled past
the outskirts of Johannesburg
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and is now heading south.
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We take in the stunning scenery
as we move into the coastal
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province of KwaZulu-Natal.
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The landscape, now it begins
to change.
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Even the environment you can see
starts to get more greener.
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A lot of mountains, it just changes
in woods.
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It's time to sit back, relax
and enjoy the magnificent views
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00:09:06,960 --> 00:09:09,320
for the next 250 miles,
135
00:09:09,320 --> 00:09:11,960
till our first main stop.
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The magnificent Nambiti
Private Game Reserve,
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where we'll come face-to-face with
nature's giants.
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We've got a big bull elephant here.
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So you've got to give them a
lot of respect.
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We're on a luxurious railway
journey across South Africa,
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from Pretoria to Durban.
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Travelling through the beautiful
KwaZulu Natal province, a region
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of gorgeous grasslands and
rich in wildlife.
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Literally around the corner
and we're there. Yay.
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It's good, it's a good time.
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The train stops at a tiny
rural station, Elandslaagte,
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on the outskirts of
Nambiti Private Game Reserve.
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Should be going through a
game reserve viewing
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all these wonderful, magnificent
creatures, which is part of the
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reason we came to South Africa.
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The reserve spreads over
26,000 acres
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and is home to over 40 species
of game living in the wild.
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While the passengers head off on
their wildlife safari
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armed with cameras, we join
rangers Brett and Dave on a
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more serious mission - protecting
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one of the most endangered animals
in the world, the rhino
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Poaching at the moment,
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from the stats from last year,
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there's over a thousand rhinos
have died in South Africa.
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So it is a very, very big problem
at the moment and I can't see
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it getting any better. It's quick
money, it's good money.
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Rhinos are being hunted for their
valuable horns, estimated
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to be worth up to $65,000
a kilo on the black market.
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They might be up there, on the
dead-end road up there.
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The black rhino is particularly
vulnerable.
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With fewer than 6,000 remaining
in the wild and 1,000 killed
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in South Africa in a year,
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they have been driven
to near extinction.
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THUNDER RUMBLES
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There's a big storm brewing behind
us at the moment.
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They're normally quite quick, but
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they've got some serious downpour
when they do come past.
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As the rain clears, more and more
animals come out to feast
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on the lush grasslands.
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We've got a big bull elephant here.
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Absolutely beautiful creatures.
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You can see this guy's lost
both his tusks. They often break
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them off for fighting or just
pushing over things.
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When you're that size, you know,
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it's fun to push things over,
I suppose. They are big animals
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and that can cause a lot of damage
if they want to,
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so you've to give them a
lot of respect.
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Hopefully we can find the rhino.
None yet, but we'll get there.
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Nambiti's anti-poaching unit
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undergoes para military-style
training
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and these rangers are at the
forefront of the poaching war.
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HE SPEAKS INDISTINCTLY
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They went inside... Seems like
they were sleeping.
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The Rangers spot a female rhino
and her calf in the distance.
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They seem to be doing fine.
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I think if we just hang back a
little bit.
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00:13:02,960 --> 00:13:06,960
Black rhino are generally much
more aggressive than white rhino.
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Black rhinos can be very hostile,
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especially a female looking after
her calf.
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It's going to charge us.
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Just watch out. Watch out.
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00:13:17,960 --> 00:13:18,960
Quickly.
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00:13:18,960 --> 00:13:21,960
Dave then spots another threat.
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00:13:24,960 --> 00:13:25,960
Something moved.
200
00:13:25,960 --> 00:13:29,960
And this this big black rhino bull,
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he's clearly not very happy with us
being here. They've paired up
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00:13:32,960 --> 00:13:34,960
by the look of things. Maybe we
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00:13:34,960 --> 00:13:37,960
interrupted in a romantic getaway
or something here.
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00:13:37,960 --> 00:13:40,960
Which is why he might be very upset
with us.
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No-one wants to cramp
this rhino's style.
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00:13:44,320 --> 00:13:46,960
The rangers go to great lengths
to protect him
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00:13:46,960 --> 00:13:48,960
and the other rhinos' safety.
208
00:13:48,960 --> 00:13:51,960
This includes regularly dehorning
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00:13:51,960 --> 00:13:54,960
the animals, making them worthless
to poachers.
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00:13:54,960 --> 00:13:59,960
To keep them safe the anti-poaching
unit monitor their rhino population
211
00:13:59,960 --> 00:14:03,960
24 hours a day, every day
of the year.
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00:14:05,960 --> 00:14:10,960
At our train, as the sun sets,
the staff have refreshments
213
00:14:10,960 --> 00:14:12,960
for the returning guests.
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00:14:12,960 --> 00:14:16,960
Hope you enjoyed it. Thank you ever
so much.
215
00:14:16,960 --> 00:14:18,960
That was quite nice.
216
00:14:18,960 --> 00:14:21,960
We really enjoyed it.
217
00:14:21,960 --> 00:14:22,960
That was really good.
218
00:14:25,960 --> 00:14:27,960
THEY CHATTER
219
00:14:27,960 --> 00:14:29,800
It is Gentleman Jack whisky.
220
00:14:29,800 --> 00:14:31,960
Back in the luxury of the train,
221
00:14:31,960 --> 00:14:35,960
the passengers get dressed up for
post-safari fancy cocktails.
222
00:14:35,960 --> 00:14:38,960
I think Ian thinks he's James Bond
cos he's got a vodka martini.
223
00:14:38,960 --> 00:14:43,960
Well, Miss Moneypenny, I have a
vodka martini. Shaken, not stirred.
224
00:14:43,960 --> 00:14:45,960
LAUGHTER
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00:14:45,960 --> 00:14:48,960
CHATTER
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It's the next morning.
227
00:15:04,960 --> 00:15:08,800
Time to continue our journey
and leave Nambiti behind.
228
00:15:17,960 --> 00:15:19,960
From Elandslaagte our train travels
229
00:15:19,960 --> 00:15:21,960
along the edge of Nambiti towards
230
00:15:21,960 --> 00:15:24,480
Spion Kop outside Ladysmith,
231
00:15:24,480 --> 00:15:26,960
and charges on south through
232
00:15:26,960 --> 00:15:28,960
historic battlegrounds,
233
00:15:28,960 --> 00:15:30,960
we take respite at a vineyard
234
00:15:30,960 --> 00:15:32,960
in the Drakensberg Mountains
235
00:15:32,960 --> 00:15:34,800
and travel through the lush
236
00:15:34,800 --> 00:15:36,960
African veldt, before arriving
237
00:15:36,960 --> 00:15:37,960
in Estcourt.
238
00:15:39,320 --> 00:15:41,960
Our train travels along
the same route
239
00:15:41,960 --> 00:15:45,960
that was a crucial supply line
for British troops on the front
line
240
00:15:45,960 --> 00:15:47,960
during the Second Boer War,
241
00:15:47,960 --> 00:15:51,960
which was fought between the
British Empire and two Boer states.
242
00:15:58,960 --> 00:16:02,960
We are heading for Spion Kop
outside Ladysmith.
243
00:16:02,960 --> 00:16:06,960
The site of one of the bloodiest
battles of the war.
244
00:16:09,960 --> 00:16:13,960
A place that historian Raymond Heron
knows well.
245
00:16:17,960 --> 00:16:19,960
The area we're moving into now
246
00:16:19,960 --> 00:16:23,960
is referred to in the history books
as the Acre of Massacre.
247
00:16:25,960 --> 00:16:29,960
All that is left today to remind us
is a memorial with the remnants
248
00:16:29,960 --> 00:16:33,480
of the trenches filled with
the stones that covered the dead.
249
00:16:35,960 --> 00:16:41,960
It was on January 24th, 1900, the
day of one of the biggest military
250
00:16:41,960 --> 00:16:44,800
blunders in British history.
251
00:16:44,800 --> 00:16:47,960
The British climbed the mountain
at ten o'clock on the night before,
252
00:16:47,960 --> 00:16:51,960
and they dig trenches
in the worst possible position.
253
00:16:51,960 --> 00:16:53,480
This is where the British were.
254
00:16:53,480 --> 00:16:56,960
There was a very heavy mist,
and at around eight o'clock
255
00:16:56,960 --> 00:17:01,800
that morning, the mist on the
mountains started to lift.
256
00:17:01,800 --> 00:17:06,160
Little did the soldiers realise
they were digging their own graves.
257
00:17:06,160 --> 00:17:10,960
As the mist lifted, they found
themselves surrounded by Boers
258
00:17:10,960 --> 00:17:13,960
who were lying in wait on the
lower terrain.
259
00:17:15,960 --> 00:17:18,640
The Boers were incredibly
good shots.
260
00:17:18,640 --> 00:17:21,960
They could shoot wild animals
over a distance of 1,000 yards
261
00:17:21,960 --> 00:17:23,000
with an open sight.
262
00:17:25,640 --> 00:17:28,960
So for the first time in world
warfare, you've got snipers.
263
00:17:29,960 --> 00:17:33,960
The British were exposed
on the top of the hill.
264
00:17:33,960 --> 00:17:35,960
There was nowhere to hide.
265
00:17:35,960 --> 00:17:38,960
The Boers, who had an intimate
knowledge of this terrain,
266
00:17:38,960 --> 00:17:42,320
over in their position
had their backs to the sun
267
00:17:42,320 --> 00:17:44,960
and they opened a deadly fire
from their position
268
00:17:44,960 --> 00:17:45,960
onto those positions.
269
00:17:45,960 --> 00:17:49,960
And we know that over 70 of the
British soldiers here were shot
270
00:17:49,960 --> 00:17:53,160
through the right temple, suggesting
they were turning their heads away
271
00:17:53,160 --> 00:17:55,960
from the rising sun
and getting shot.
272
00:17:55,960 --> 00:17:57,960
You could hear the shots,
but you don't know where
273
00:17:57,960 --> 00:18:00,800
they're coming from - it's a
huge advantage.
274
00:18:02,480 --> 00:18:04,960
The conditions were horrendous.
275
00:18:04,960 --> 00:18:08,960
By midday, it was over 40 degrees.
276
00:18:08,960 --> 00:18:10,960
The British had run out of water.
277
00:18:10,960 --> 00:18:11,960
There was no shelter.
278
00:18:11,960 --> 00:18:15,640
And the Boer artillery was firing
up to seven rounds
279
00:18:15,640 --> 00:18:17,960
of shells per minute.
280
00:18:17,960 --> 00:18:20,960
Most of the men who fell
on that fateful day were buried
281
00:18:20,960 --> 00:18:24,480
as unknown soldiers at Spion Kop.
282
00:18:24,480 --> 00:18:26,960
It remains the smallest piece
of ground on which more men
283
00:18:26,960 --> 00:18:28,960
lost their lives in a single battle
284
00:18:28,960 --> 00:18:31,960
than any battle fought anywhere
in the world.
285
00:18:32,960 --> 00:18:36,800
We know that the Boers lost
58 men in this battle.
286
00:18:37,960 --> 00:18:40,160
The British lost in excess of 700.
287
00:18:41,960 --> 00:18:45,960
Astonishingly, on the day of the
battle, two titans of history
288
00:18:45,960 --> 00:18:48,640
had been up on Spion Kop.
289
00:18:48,640 --> 00:18:50,000
They both returned alive.
290
00:18:51,800 --> 00:18:55,960
Winston Churchill was in South
Africa as a war correspondent.
291
00:18:57,800 --> 00:19:01,960
Mahatma Gandhi came to South Africa
to fight for Indian rights.
292
00:19:03,960 --> 00:19:05,960
Had a stray bullet hit any one
of the two,
293
00:19:05,960 --> 00:19:08,960
you can ask yourself what you think
might have happened to the course
294
00:19:08,960 --> 00:19:10,960
of world history.
295
00:19:10,960 --> 00:19:13,960
Mahatma Gandhi was here as
a stretcher bearer.
296
00:19:13,960 --> 00:19:17,960
He was heard to say that he could
see what the human race was capable
297
00:19:17,960 --> 00:19:19,960
of doing to one another,
298
00:19:19,960 --> 00:19:22,000
but he needed to know
in the name of what?
299
00:19:23,960 --> 00:19:27,960
The brave men who fought here
will never be forgotten.
300
00:19:30,960 --> 00:19:34,960
In Britain, to commemorate the many
Liverpudlians who fell here,
301
00:19:34,960 --> 00:19:37,960
Liverpool Football Club
named their famous Kop stand
302
00:19:37,960 --> 00:19:39,960
at Anfield after the battle.
303
00:19:50,960 --> 00:19:52,160
Our train is travelling
304
00:19:52,160 --> 00:19:55,960
along the edge of the stunning
Drakensberg Mountains.
305
00:20:02,960 --> 00:20:06,960
As we soak up the changing African
landscape, the guests enjoy
306
00:20:06,960 --> 00:20:08,960
a fine lunch.
307
00:20:08,960 --> 00:20:10,960
All the food is locally sourced,
308
00:20:10,960 --> 00:20:14,960
as are the wines served by wine
waiter, Ethan.
309
00:20:14,960 --> 00:20:16,960
May I top you up on some wine, sir?
310
00:20:16,960 --> 00:20:18,960
Pinot Noir.
311
00:20:20,960 --> 00:20:24,960
Every single wine on the train
is from South Africa,
312
00:20:24,960 --> 00:20:26,800
mostly Western Cape area.
313
00:20:27,960 --> 00:20:30,320
Would you like a top-up on wine,
sir? Yes, please.
314
00:20:46,960 --> 00:20:51,960
South Africa is the ninth largest
wine producer in the world.
315
00:20:52,960 --> 00:20:57,640
Most vineyards are located around
coastal regions in the south,
316
00:20:57,640 --> 00:21:00,960
but high up here in the
central Drakensberg there is
317
00:21:00,960 --> 00:21:04,960
an up and coming estate rewriting
the wine map of South Africa.
318
00:21:08,800 --> 00:21:13,960
Mauritz bravely started growing
vines here in 2007 and is now
319
00:21:13,960 --> 00:21:15,000
enjoying its success.
320
00:21:16,960 --> 00:21:19,960
That is our first, first cuttings
of the season.
321
00:21:19,960 --> 00:21:23,320
We've tasted the sugars, they are
right up there where we want them
322
00:21:23,320 --> 00:21:27,960
and that'll turn into a nice alcohol
wine of about 13.5, 14% alcohol.
323
00:21:27,960 --> 00:21:29,960
Strong enough for our South Africans
to drink.
324
00:21:29,960 --> 00:21:32,960
We always like a strong alcohol wine
325
00:21:32,960 --> 00:21:35,960
cos we drink for results,
not for taste.
326
00:21:37,960 --> 00:21:39,960
Mauritz is far too modest.
327
00:21:42,960 --> 00:21:46,800
His wines have already won several
prestigious awards, and that's
328
00:21:46,800 --> 00:21:49,960
despite growing his vines
in a challenging climate.
329
00:21:52,960 --> 00:21:55,960
We get severe thunderstorms,
we get severe hail.
330
00:21:55,960 --> 00:21:57,640
Summer rainfall. Every time
331
00:21:57,640 --> 00:21:59,960
it rains, it dilutes the sugar
in the grape.
332
00:21:59,960 --> 00:22:02,960
So that dilutes the alcohol
in your wine.
333
00:22:03,960 --> 00:22:06,480
The site you can see the
hail netting.
334
00:22:06,480 --> 00:22:10,960
We put it up on one side because we
normally get our hail
335
00:22:10,960 --> 00:22:12,320
from the southern side.
336
00:22:14,960 --> 00:22:17,960
The winery is currently the only
wine estate in the central
337
00:22:17,960 --> 00:22:19,960
Drakensberg Mountains.
338
00:22:19,960 --> 00:22:22,960
Mm, pretty close. I think that's
just about there.
339
00:22:22,960 --> 00:22:26,960
Mauritz could be the one to open
the area up to more wine growers
340
00:22:26,960 --> 00:22:30,480
who can take advantage of the
rich soils.
341
00:22:30,480 --> 00:22:33,960
I think the people who drive past
here thought I was mad.
342
00:22:33,960 --> 00:22:37,320
I think a lot of people still think
I'm mad, but we just keep on
343
00:22:37,320 --> 00:22:40,960
chipping away and it's starting to
get the right returns.
344
00:22:40,960 --> 00:22:42,960
The grapes are growing,
we are making wines.
345
00:22:42,960 --> 00:22:44,960
We've received a couple of awards.
346
00:22:44,960 --> 00:22:48,960
So it's all getting together
and getting better and better.
347
00:22:50,960 --> 00:22:53,960
It's still early days for wine
growers in this area, but the hard
348
00:22:53,960 --> 00:22:56,960
work is slowly starting to pay off.
349
00:23:01,320 --> 00:23:04,960
I really like sitting down here
and have a glass of wine,
350
00:23:04,960 --> 00:23:06,960
mostly on my own.
351
00:23:07,960 --> 00:23:10,160
This is, for me, the peaceful time
of the day.
352
00:23:10,160 --> 00:23:12,960
This is your reward
for the day's work.
353
00:23:20,960 --> 00:23:25,320
We've now travelled 350 miles
over two days through the great
354
00:23:25,320 --> 00:23:27,160
grasslands of South Africa.
355
00:23:42,960 --> 00:23:46,960
Our next stop is Estcourt,
where we will be spending the night.
356
00:23:49,640 --> 00:23:51,960
And after a good night's sleep...
357
00:23:52,960 --> 00:23:57,960
..tomorrow morning, we will head
into the Drakensberg Mountains
358
00:23:57,960 --> 00:24:02,960
to explore the ancient rock art
of the San people.
359
00:24:02,960 --> 00:24:06,160
The best paintings, the most
wonderful eland
360
00:24:06,160 --> 00:24:09,320
that you're going
to see in the Drakensberg.
361
00:24:18,800 --> 00:24:22,960
We're on a South African adventure
with Rovos Rail.
362
00:24:25,800 --> 00:24:26,960
It's early morning and we're
363
00:24:26,960 --> 00:24:29,320
travelling past the
Wagendrift Dam...
364
00:24:33,960 --> 00:24:36,960
..as our train heads south
towards the Indian Ocean.
365
00:24:40,960 --> 00:24:43,960
While the passengers tuck into
breakfast.. Yes, please.
366
00:24:43,960 --> 00:24:47,960
..the train keeping team
367
00:24:47,960 --> 00:24:51,960
is at hand to make the beds and
clean the luxurious suites.
368
00:24:52,960 --> 00:24:54,960
We have to change the sheets
every morning.
369
00:24:54,960 --> 00:24:57,960
We only get 15 minutes.
370
00:24:57,960 --> 00:25:01,960
Folding the towels sometimes take a
lot of time
371
00:25:01,960 --> 00:25:04,960
because you must fold it in the
standard way.
372
00:25:04,960 --> 00:25:06,960
This is so much pressure!
373
00:25:06,960 --> 00:25:08,960
She's kidding. She'll be fine.
374
00:25:08,960 --> 00:25:10,960
SHE CHUCKLES
375
00:25:11,960 --> 00:25:13,960
You'll never forget the toilet roll.
376
00:25:16,960 --> 00:25:19,800
It's very much learning by doing.
377
00:25:19,800 --> 00:25:21,160
The language of the towels.
378
00:25:21,160 --> 00:25:24,960
How the towels are folded,
which way they go.
379
00:25:24,960 --> 00:25:27,960
Every room has a little secret to
it, but the more I do it,
380
00:25:27,960 --> 00:25:29,960
the more I'll understand.
381
00:25:29,960 --> 00:25:32,320
I mostly want to work on the train
because I need to see
382
00:25:32,320 --> 00:25:33,960
more of my country.
383
00:25:33,960 --> 00:25:37,640
Sometimes you don't get to travel
as much, and if you can work
384
00:25:37,640 --> 00:25:40,960
and travel, I think that's
the best combination.
385
00:25:40,960 --> 00:25:43,640
I was happy to find out
that I don't have motion sickness!
386
00:25:44,960 --> 00:25:47,960
It would have been an interesting
adventure.
387
00:25:49,960 --> 00:25:50,960
It's a job well done.
388
00:25:50,960 --> 00:25:53,160
All suites are finished in time.
389
00:26:03,960 --> 00:26:06,640
From Estcourt, our train travels
390
00:26:06,640 --> 00:26:07,960
to the quirky station
391
00:26:07,960 --> 00:26:09,960
of Lions River,
392
00:26:09,960 --> 00:26:11,960
We'll then pass by the winding of
393
00:26:11,960 --> 00:26:13,960
the Umgeni River and the mysterious
394
00:26:13,960 --> 00:26:17,480
Howick Waterfalls, before we enter
395
00:26:17,480 --> 00:26:19,960
the Valley of a Thousand Hills.
396
00:26:28,800 --> 00:26:29,960
TRAIN WHISTLE TOOTS
397
00:26:29,960 --> 00:26:31,960
The train glides across the
398
00:26:31,960 --> 00:26:35,800
heartlands of the
KwaZulu Natal province.
399
00:26:37,480 --> 00:26:39,960
A land of rich cultural heritage.
400
00:26:52,320 --> 00:26:55,960
The earliest hunter-gatherers
who lived in South Africa
401
00:26:55,960 --> 00:26:56,960
were the San People.
402
00:26:59,320 --> 00:27:00,960
Little is known about the San, but
403
00:27:00,960 --> 00:27:03,160
high up in the
Drakensberg Mountains,
404
00:27:03,160 --> 00:27:06,800
ancient rock paintings give us clues
405
00:27:06,800 --> 00:27:09,960
about their way of life
and spiritual beliefs.
406
00:27:11,000 --> 00:27:12,960
Only a few people know where
407
00:27:12,960 --> 00:27:15,960
the secret sites of San rock art
are located.
408
00:27:18,960 --> 00:27:22,960
One of them is anthropology
professor, Jeremy Hollmann.
409
00:27:22,960 --> 00:27:27,960
Right. Well, there we are, up there
is the rock art site.
410
00:27:29,960 --> 00:27:34,000
It's a bit of a scramble, the last
bit, but it's worth it.
411
00:27:42,960 --> 00:27:46,160
The spectacular surroundings
were an inspiration
412
00:27:46,160 --> 00:27:47,960
to ancient artists.
413
00:27:51,960 --> 00:27:54,160
OK, we're here now.
414
00:27:54,160 --> 00:27:57,800
The best paintings and the most
wonderful eland
415
00:27:57,800 --> 00:28:01,960
that you're going to see
in the Drakensberg.
416
00:28:01,960 --> 00:28:05,960
The eland is the largest
of all antelopes.
417
00:28:07,960 --> 00:28:10,960
As we walk along here and you look
to the rocks, you'll see
418
00:28:10,960 --> 00:28:14,480
that there are paintings dotted
all over the surfaces here.
419
00:28:14,480 --> 00:28:17,640
And then we come to a gem like this,
420
00:28:17,640 --> 00:28:19,320
the dying eland - the image that
421
00:28:19,320 --> 00:28:23,960
gave us a breakthrough into
understanding the Bushman beliefs
422
00:28:23,960 --> 00:28:26,960
and their reasons for making
the rock paintings.
423
00:28:26,960 --> 00:28:28,960
Well, what's really interesting
about this figure
424
00:28:28,960 --> 00:28:30,960
is not completely human.
425
00:28:30,960 --> 00:28:35,000
So what we're seeing here
is a twinning of human and eland.
426
00:28:35,000 --> 00:28:39,960
And this is a central idea
in Bushmen religion.
427
00:28:47,800 --> 00:28:51,480
Jeremy has been studying every
detail of these paintings
428
00:28:51,480 --> 00:28:53,960
and the meaning behind them
for years.
429
00:28:58,480 --> 00:29:01,960
Obviously, one of the things we want
to know when we look at things
430
00:29:01,960 --> 00:29:04,320
like this is how old are
the paintings?
431
00:29:04,320 --> 00:29:07,960
Some dating work carried out in the
mountains elsewhere,
432
00:29:07,960 --> 00:29:12,640
we're getting dates of between two
and 3,000 years before the present.
433
00:29:12,640 --> 00:29:13,960
So they're pretty old.
434
00:29:13,960 --> 00:29:15,960
There's no weathering
that happens here.
435
00:29:15,960 --> 00:29:19,960
There's no sun that comes
on the painting. There's no water.
436
00:29:19,960 --> 00:29:21,960
And that's why they've lasted
so long.
437
00:29:23,960 --> 00:29:27,960
And it's all out here
in this amazing landscape.
438
00:29:34,960 --> 00:29:38,960
Below in the valley, our train
continues to travel in the foothills
439
00:29:38,960 --> 00:29:41,960
of the stunning
Drakensberg Mountains.
440
00:29:44,960 --> 00:29:46,960
Khangwelo is looking forward
441
00:29:46,960 --> 00:29:51,960
to arriving at our next stop -
Lions River.
442
00:29:53,960 --> 00:29:56,640
I love that place.
443
00:29:56,640 --> 00:29:59,960
It's not far from the
Nelson Mandela Capture Site.
444
00:29:59,960 --> 00:30:02,960
That's where Nelson Mandela
was arrested.
445
00:30:02,960 --> 00:30:05,960
It brings me closer to my history.
446
00:30:09,320 --> 00:30:11,960
Our train pulls into Lions River,
447
00:30:11,960 --> 00:30:13,960
a quaint little station in the
448
00:30:13,960 --> 00:30:16,960
middle of the KwaZulu Natal
Midlands.
449
00:30:20,960 --> 00:30:22,960
It's hard to believe that this was
450
00:30:22,960 --> 00:30:25,960
once a major hub of
commercial activity.
451
00:30:26,960 --> 00:30:29,640
From here, cattle were transported
452
00:30:29,640 --> 00:30:31,960
by train to other parts of
South Africa.
453
00:30:31,960 --> 00:30:36,000
But today, only the old rickety
station remains.
454
00:30:36,000 --> 00:30:40,160
Son of a local cattle farmer,
Glen grew up around here.
455
00:30:41,960 --> 00:30:47,480
There used to be about 110 trains
passing through here a day.
456
00:30:47,480 --> 00:30:50,960
So just a hive of activity
and a community place
457
00:30:50,960 --> 00:30:52,960
where you could actually hop on the
458
00:30:52,960 --> 00:30:54,960
train and go to your next
destination.
459
00:30:54,960 --> 00:30:59,800
In some ways, not much has changed
here, but the usage has
460
00:30:59,800 --> 00:31:01,000
sort of dropped dramatically.
461
00:31:01,000 --> 00:31:04,960
Now you're sort of looking at around
ten to 15 trains a day,
462
00:31:04,960 --> 00:31:07,160
and they're mainly all
freight trains.
463
00:31:08,960 --> 00:31:13,960
In 1962 South Africa's most famous
son, Nelson Mandela, came
464
00:31:13,960 --> 00:31:15,160
through Lions River.
465
00:31:17,960 --> 00:31:20,960
Outside here is a stunning
old building.
466
00:31:20,960 --> 00:31:24,480
It's actually sort of where Mandela
had his last drink
467
00:31:24,480 --> 00:31:25,960
before he got captured.
468
00:31:25,960 --> 00:31:29,640
It used to be an old general store
of sorts, but the place is sort of
469
00:31:29,640 --> 00:31:32,160
oozing with this history
and character.
470
00:31:32,160 --> 00:31:33,960
And it's just been kept that way.
471
00:31:33,960 --> 00:31:35,960
It's sort of overgrown since,
472
00:31:35,960 --> 00:31:38,960
but it's all still there in the
bones of Lions River.
473
00:31:40,800 --> 00:31:44,960
The sleepy village is currently
undergoing a rejuvenation process.
474
00:31:44,960 --> 00:31:47,640
A few coffee houses and new shops
are popping up.
475
00:31:48,960 --> 00:31:52,960
in 2018 Glen opened The Platform,
476
00:31:52,960 --> 00:31:55,960
located inside one of the old
railway buildings.
477
00:31:55,960 --> 00:31:59,160
For us The Platform here there is an
immense creative community.
478
00:31:59,160 --> 00:32:02,960
There's a tonne of artists that
sort of live out here in the
countryside,
479
00:32:02,960 --> 00:32:04,960
and this is sort of a place
for us to showcase
480
00:32:04,960 --> 00:32:07,160
all of their beautiful works.
481
00:32:07,160 --> 00:32:09,000
And the creativity didn't stop
482
00:32:09,000 --> 00:32:12,320
when it came to building a new loo
for the customers.
483
00:32:12,320 --> 00:32:15,960
Around the corner here we've got a
cattle crush,
484
00:32:15,960 --> 00:32:18,960
but now we've sort of converted it
into a toilet.
485
00:32:18,960 --> 00:32:21,800
And what's really cool about the
486
00:32:21,800 --> 00:32:24,960
toilet is it's got a nice
one-way glass to it.
487
00:32:24,960 --> 00:32:26,960
So you can actually see the goats,
488
00:32:26,960 --> 00:32:30,960
or whatever's passing by on the
train track at the time.
489
00:32:36,160 --> 00:32:41,000
It's a brief stop for Khangwelo too,
as she explores the curio art shop.
490
00:32:43,960 --> 00:32:46,960
They're just beautiful.
They've got these unique characters.
491
00:32:46,960 --> 00:32:49,960
I mean, look at that one.
492
00:32:49,960 --> 00:32:54,960
Is it a cow or a buffalo, with boobs
and the red stilettos?
493
00:32:54,960 --> 00:32:58,320
They're just unique. They're nice.
494
00:32:59,960 --> 00:33:01,800
she laughs
495
00:33:02,960 --> 00:33:05,000
We are ready to leave and continue
our journey.
496
00:33:05,000 --> 00:33:08,960
But one of the passengers
has gone missing.
497
00:33:08,960 --> 00:33:09,960
He's disappeared off again,
498
00:33:09,960 --> 00:33:12,960
taking even more photographs
of trains, et cetera.
499
00:33:12,960 --> 00:33:15,800
So I'm just here now worried
that the train may leaving behind,
500
00:33:15,800 --> 00:33:17,480
which is a mixed blessing.
501
00:33:20,960 --> 00:33:23,960
With all the passengers
finally back on board...
502
00:33:23,960 --> 00:33:25,960
THEY CHATTER
503
00:33:27,000 --> 00:33:29,960
..our train pulls out of
Lions River.
504
00:33:40,960 --> 00:33:42,000
THEY LAUGH
505
00:33:42,000 --> 00:33:46,960
Shortly after Lions River,
we cross another river, the Umgeni.
506
00:33:48,320 --> 00:33:51,960
This seemingly small waterway,
continues south
507
00:33:51,960 --> 00:33:53,960
towards the tiny town of Howick.
508
00:34:00,640 --> 00:34:02,960
This is where the Umgeni River
509
00:34:02,960 --> 00:34:05,960
spectacularly falls 95 metres
510
00:34:05,960 --> 00:34:06,960
over a cliff on its way
511
00:34:06,960 --> 00:34:08,960
to the Indian Ocean.
512
00:34:16,960 --> 00:34:21,960
The pool below the cascade
is a sacred site for the local Zulu.
513
00:34:25,960 --> 00:34:27,960
According to ancient folklore,
514
00:34:27,960 --> 00:34:30,960
this is where the almighty
Inkanyamba lives.
515
00:34:33,960 --> 00:34:34,960
A snake-like creature.
516
00:34:37,320 --> 00:34:41,960
Elliot is a sangoma - a
medicine man and spiritual healer
517
00:34:41,960 --> 00:34:45,960
who practises the traditions of his
Zulu ancestors.
518
00:35:07,960 --> 00:35:12,480
Only sangomas can communicate
with the Inkanyamba.
519
00:35:19,960 --> 00:35:23,000
The encounter between a sangoma
and the Inkanyamba
520
00:35:23,000 --> 00:35:25,960
is like an out-of-body experience.
521
00:35:26,960 --> 00:35:30,960
Elliot believes the spirit
of his ancestors lives submerged
522
00:35:30,960 --> 00:35:34,960
underwater in the pool below
Howick Falls.
523
00:35:49,960 --> 00:35:52,960
Elliot's latest encounter
with the spiritual powers
524
00:35:52,960 --> 00:35:55,960
of the Inkanyamba leaves him
revitalised.
525
00:36:21,480 --> 00:36:24,960
We're 400 miles into our journey
and are travelling
526
00:36:24,960 --> 00:36:27,960
through the stunning
Valley of a Thousand Hills.
527
00:36:30,960 --> 00:36:34,800
As our train continues south
to Durban, we are going to take
528
00:36:34,800 --> 00:36:37,960
a nostalgic trip
from Kloof to Inchanga
529
00:36:37,960 --> 00:36:42,320
on one of South Africa's oldest
and steepest railway lines,
530
00:36:42,320 --> 00:36:44,960
on the Umgeni steam train.
531
00:36:46,960 --> 00:36:48,960
Ah, it's the best train
in the world.
532
00:36:49,960 --> 00:36:52,320
Only privileged people like us
can pull this...
533
00:36:52,320 --> 00:36:54,960
TRAIN WHISTLE TOOTS
534
00:37:02,960 --> 00:37:04,960
It's the final day of our three-day
train journey
535
00:37:04,960 --> 00:37:06,960
from Pretoria to Durban.
536
00:37:11,960 --> 00:37:15,960
We're travelling through the lush
Zulu lands of the breathtaking
537
00:37:15,960 --> 00:37:17,960
Valley of a Thousand Hills.
538
00:37:20,320 --> 00:37:23,960
As our luxury train glides through
this beautiful landscape,
539
00:37:23,960 --> 00:37:27,960
we are taking a brief detour to get
onboard a much older train.
540
00:37:31,960 --> 00:37:35,640
A beloved relic kept alive
by a small team
541
00:37:35,640 --> 00:37:37,960
of steam locomotion enthusiasts.
542
00:37:39,960 --> 00:37:43,960
This is the Umgeni Steam Railway.
543
00:37:45,960 --> 00:37:49,960
On the last Sunday of each month,
a group of dedicated volunteers run
544
00:37:49,960 --> 00:37:52,960
the service from Kloof to Inchanga.
545
00:37:56,960 --> 00:38:00,320
Among them, in charge of the engine,
is Ryan.
546
00:38:01,960 --> 00:38:05,160
We're currently standing aboard
a 19 Class locomotive.
547
00:38:05,160 --> 00:38:10,000
It's an ex-South African Railways
engine, built in 1938 in Germany,
548
00:38:10,000 --> 00:38:11,960
still going strong.
549
00:38:13,640 --> 00:38:17,960
The short journey from Kloof
to Inchanga is only 15 miles.
550
00:38:19,480 --> 00:38:21,480
We have a mountain to climb.
551
00:38:21,480 --> 00:38:23,960
We actually have to shovel a lot
of coal, takes about a tonne
552
00:38:23,960 --> 00:38:25,480
of coal each way.
553
00:38:25,480 --> 00:38:27,960
We work hard, as you can see.
554
00:38:27,960 --> 00:38:31,960
We all do it because we are
passionate about steam, and
555
00:38:31,960 --> 00:38:34,960
the survival and the heritage,
so that the future generations
556
00:38:34,960 --> 00:38:36,960
can enjoy what we enjoy here.
557
00:38:36,960 --> 00:38:38,960
Hey, birthday boy! Hello!
558
00:38:38,960 --> 00:38:41,960
I like people, I like trains
so I enjoy doing it.
559
00:38:41,960 --> 00:38:44,960
We are all volunteers and for that
we're just give thanks
560
00:38:44,960 --> 00:38:47,160
for the privilege of being able
to do it.
561
00:38:47,160 --> 00:38:49,000
First things first.
Good morning, everyone.
562
00:38:49,000 --> 00:38:51,960
And welcome aboard.
THEY WHOOP
563
00:38:51,960 --> 00:38:56,960
So while everyone is sitting
in the train waiting to go, I am
564
00:38:56,960 --> 00:39:00,480
shovelling my butt off,
getting the engine ready.
565
00:39:03,960 --> 00:39:06,960
TRAIN WHISTLE TOOTS
566
00:39:08,160 --> 00:39:10,960
WHISTLE TOOTS
567
00:39:10,960 --> 00:39:13,160
..clear, all set for mainline.
568
00:39:20,960 --> 00:39:24,000
TRAIN WHISTLE TOOTS
569
00:39:27,960 --> 00:39:29,960
If I put my hand here I should
get burnt.
570
00:39:29,960 --> 00:39:32,960
If I can hold it there, the fire
is not hot enough and we're not
571
00:39:32,960 --> 00:39:33,960
going to go anywhere.
572
00:39:33,960 --> 00:39:37,960
I need to keep this needle as close
to this mark as I can for optimum
573
00:39:37,960 --> 00:39:39,960
power and steam, bearing in mind
574
00:39:39,960 --> 00:39:42,960
we need to keep water in these
glasses at all times.
575
00:39:46,160 --> 00:39:49,000
Ah, it's the best...in the world.
576
00:39:50,960 --> 00:39:52,960
Only privileged people like us
can pull this.
577
00:39:52,960 --> 00:39:55,960
TRAIN WHISTLE TOOTS
578
00:40:01,960 --> 00:40:03,800
Yeah, very unique sound.
579
00:40:03,800 --> 00:40:06,960
TRAIN WHISTLE TOOTS
580
00:40:06,960 --> 00:40:10,960
The train, Wesley, travels through
the beautiful
581
00:40:10,960 --> 00:40:13,960
Valley of a Thousand Hills following
the Old Natal Main Line
582
00:40:13,960 --> 00:40:15,960
that was completed in 1880.
583
00:40:15,960 --> 00:40:18,960
TRAIN WHISTLE TOOTS
584
00:40:21,160 --> 00:40:25,960
Along some stretches of the narrow
gauge track, the gradient is 10%.
585
00:40:30,960 --> 00:40:33,960
That's a lot of work for this old
locomotive and also
586
00:40:33,960 --> 00:40:35,000
for the men in the cab.
587
00:40:43,960 --> 00:40:45,960
Lots of steam. Working hard.
588
00:40:48,960 --> 00:40:54,960
Wesley also travels through one
of South Africa's oldest tunnels.
589
00:40:54,960 --> 00:40:57,000
SHRIEKING
590
00:41:00,000 --> 00:41:04,960
On the train, everybody
is enjoying the ride.
591
00:41:04,960 --> 00:41:09,640
It's awesome seeing the history
of the railways being preserved.
592
00:41:09,640 --> 00:41:11,960
We're amazed that it's volunteers
593
00:41:11,960 --> 00:41:14,960
that are actually keeping this whole
thing going.
594
00:41:18,160 --> 00:41:22,960
After 50 minutes, our steam train
is approaching Inchanga.
595
00:41:25,960 --> 00:41:28,960
Little ones have been loving it.
Absolutely brilliant.
596
00:41:34,960 --> 00:41:36,960
Now we've levelled off.
We're coming to the station.
597
00:41:36,960 --> 00:41:40,960
So I won't be putting any more coal
for a while.
598
00:41:43,960 --> 00:41:47,960
Today was the best day, pretty
much nearly for my life.
599
00:41:55,800 --> 00:41:58,960
As Wesley the steam loco
pulls into Inchanga...
600
00:42:01,960 --> 00:42:03,960
..back on our vintage train,
601
00:42:03,960 --> 00:42:06,960
we are approaching our
final destination, too.
602
00:42:09,320 --> 00:42:13,960
The last stop on our journey
is Durban by the Indian Ocean.
603
00:42:21,640 --> 00:42:22,960
Thanks very much. And once again,
604
00:42:22,960 --> 00:42:25,960
for myself and all of the crew,
it's been lovely having you.
605
00:42:25,960 --> 00:42:28,960
Hopefully we'll have you back in the
future, thank you.
606
00:42:32,640 --> 00:42:34,960
The passengers say their farewells.
607
00:42:34,960 --> 00:42:36,960
Our trip has come to an end.
608
00:42:38,960 --> 00:42:44,960
On our train adventure from Pretoria
to Durban, we travelled through lush
609
00:42:44,960 --> 00:42:47,960
grasslands and passed spectacular
mountains.
610
00:42:48,960 --> 00:42:54,160
We got a taste of the rich history,
the wonderful wildlife
611
00:42:54,160 --> 00:42:58,960
and the stunning beauty
of South Africa.
612
00:42:58,960 --> 00:43:02,960
All from the comfort of this
extraordinary train.
613
00:43:28,960 --> 00:43:31,960
Subtitles by Red Bee Media
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