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1
00:00:59,242 --> 00:01:01,209
What's wrong ?
2
00:01:01,277 --> 00:01:04,178
I'm just tired,
I guess.
3
00:01:09,019 --> 00:01:12,153
Have you traveled far ?
4
00:01:13,824 --> 00:01:15,790
Yeah.
5
00:01:21,164 --> 00:01:24,065
You're a surfer,
aren't you ?
6
00:01:25,836 --> 00:01:28,102
Yeah, I'm a surfer.
7
00:01:28,171 --> 00:01:31,673
I always wanted to try that,
but you know, I just--
8
00:01:31,742 --> 00:01:33,909
It seems like it would be
so much fun, you know ?
9
00:01:33,977 --> 00:01:36,878
So healthy.
Yeah, it can be.
10
00:01:38,549 --> 00:01:42,116
- Depends.
- On what ?
11
00:01:42,185 --> 00:01:44,653
On whether or notyou make it your whole life.
12
00:01:44,721 --> 00:01:46,721
Have you ?
13
00:01:50,561 --> 00:01:52,561
I guess.
14
00:01:56,033 --> 00:01:59,534
What would you say
if I told you that
there's a wave out there,
15
00:01:59,603 --> 00:02:04,272
And by the timeit hits this little islandoff of mexico...
16
00:02:04,340 --> 00:02:07,408
It's gonna be massive ?
17
00:02:07,477 --> 00:02:11,046
And all I can think about
is riding it.
18
00:04:41,064 --> 00:04:42,997
So you want to surf ?
19
00:04:43,066 --> 00:04:47,902
And the waves near
the town where you live
aren't half bad.
20
00:04:47,971 --> 00:04:49,938
And you start
to improve.
21
00:04:52,342 --> 00:04:55,043
And then you hearabout this wave...
22
00:04:55,112 --> 00:04:57,112
In a faraway country...
23
00:04:57,180 --> 00:04:59,948
With a name you can't
even pronounce.
24
00:05:00,683 --> 00:05:02,650
What then ?
25
00:05:04,420 --> 00:05:07,122
How far areyou willing to go ?
26
00:05:10,393 --> 00:05:12,961
What sacrificeare you willing to make ?
27
00:05:16,867 --> 00:05:19,500
How good do you
really want to be ?
28
00:05:40,857 --> 00:05:46,594
Mm. Ow. Ow !
29
00:05:46,663 --> 00:05:48,429
Ouch.
Man, this hurts.
30
00:06:03,246 --> 00:06:06,147
aw, mickey. You promised.
31
00:06:09,485 --> 00:06:13,254
Mm.
So beautiful.
32
00:06:13,323 --> 00:06:15,957
Mickey.
So beautiful.
33
00:06:16,026 --> 00:06:19,393
We're dead.
We are dead.
34
00:06:21,998 --> 00:06:26,134
It's cool, don't worry about it.
I'm just teaching her english.
35
00:06:35,178 --> 00:06:37,912
I've been watching him ride
for four days now.
36
00:06:37,981 --> 00:06:41,082
Having chronicled surfingall my life, I'm convinced...
37
00:06:41,151 --> 00:06:43,451
That he's one of thoserare athletes...
38
00:06:43,519 --> 00:06:47,421
Whose spirit is as greatas their talent.
39
00:06:47,490 --> 00:06:51,592
I'm also convinced thathe's preparing himselffor something extraordinary,
40
00:06:51,661 --> 00:06:55,696
And if I can do anythingto help him, I will.
41
00:07:03,206 --> 00:07:06,341
Hey ! Mickey's at it again.
He promised.
42
00:07:06,409 --> 00:07:09,010
Says he's teaching her english
or something.
43
00:07:09,079 --> 00:07:11,045
He's teaching her
something.
44
00:07:12,482 --> 00:07:14,415
- Ladies first.
- ladies first.
45
00:07:16,019 --> 00:07:17,986
How are you ?
How are you ?
46
00:07:19,522 --> 00:07:22,190
I am fine.
I am fine.
47
00:07:22,259 --> 00:07:26,160
Your eyes
are very beautiful.
48
00:07:26,229 --> 00:07:28,763
Your eyes very beautiful.
49
00:07:28,831 --> 00:07:32,267
And you're
so very handsome.
50
00:07:32,335 --> 00:07:34,535
You're so very
handsome.
51
00:07:34,604 --> 00:07:38,106
And so strong.
- And so strong.
52
00:07:38,174 --> 00:07:41,442
Very good.
- Very good.
53
00:07:41,511 --> 00:07:44,412
Now, if you really
want to learn english...
54
00:07:46,249 --> 00:07:50,584
♪♪ - you listen to country music.
55
00:07:50,653 --> 00:07:53,754
They tell it
like it is.
56
00:07:53,823 --> 00:07:58,659
you give your hand to me.
You give your hand to me.
57
00:07:58,728 --> 00:08:01,229
And then you say hello.
- You say hello.
58
00:08:01,298 --> 00:08:04,032
♪ and I can hardly speak ♪
59
00:08:04,100 --> 00:08:07,768
♪ my heart is beating so ♪
60
00:08:07,837 --> 00:08:11,839
♪ and anyone could tell ♪
61
00:08:11,908 --> 00:08:15,876
♪ you think you know me well ♪
62
00:08:15,946 --> 00:08:19,380
♪ but you don't know me ♪
63
00:08:30,793 --> 00:08:33,995
♪ and longs to kiss your lips ♪
64
00:08:34,064 --> 00:08:37,098
♪ and longs to hold you tight ♪♪
65
00:08:37,167 --> 00:08:41,369
Sounds like your daddy's here.
Sounds like your daddy's here.
66
00:08:41,438 --> 00:08:43,838
Yep.
- Yep.
67
00:09:06,262 --> 00:09:09,330
I'm really sorry, sir, but I
was just teaching her english.
68
00:09:16,439 --> 00:09:18,506
There's a lot of girls
out there, mickey.
69
00:09:18,574 --> 00:09:22,843
That's my point exactly.
You gotta pick the right one.
70
00:09:22,912 --> 00:09:25,346
You gotta make 'em
come to you.
71
00:09:25,415 --> 00:09:29,017
Otherwise, it's like
marlin fishing.
72
00:09:29,085 --> 00:09:32,920
- What ?
- Marlin fishing, man.
73
00:09:32,989 --> 00:09:35,823
You see a beautiful woman.
She's like a big game fish.
74
00:09:35,892 --> 00:09:41,396
If you really want her,
you're gonna need a boat,
bait, tackle, gasoline.
75
00:09:41,464 --> 00:09:43,464
You gotta get out
on the high seas.
76
00:09:43,533 --> 00:09:46,000
And if you get a hookup--
if you get a hookup--
77
00:09:46,069 --> 00:09:49,170
You gotta drag it all the way
back to the boat.
78
00:09:49,239 --> 00:09:53,207
But I have a question for ya:
At that point, who's tired ?
79
00:09:53,276 --> 00:09:57,645
- Who, you ?
- No, goddamn it,the both of ya !
80
00:09:57,713 --> 00:10:00,581
Beautiful women, you know what
I say to them ? I say,
81
00:10:00,650 --> 00:10:04,585
"you may be a symphony, baby.
But I believe in song."
82
00:10:05,821 --> 00:10:09,890
- I-I don't get it.
You get it ?
- Sometimes.
83
00:10:18,251 --> 00:10:21,952
You all right ?
You gonna be all right ?
84
00:10:31,998 --> 00:10:33,964
Yeah, I'm fine.
85
00:10:46,579 --> 00:10:50,515
Hey, english !
Over here.
86
00:10:50,583 --> 00:10:54,118
English. No tv,
you understand me ?
87
00:10:54,187 --> 00:10:56,187
No shopping malls.
88
00:10:56,256 --> 00:10:59,323
No tour buses.
You hear me, english ?
89
00:10:59,392 --> 00:11:01,392
No fast foods.
90
00:11:03,263 --> 00:11:05,496
Leave us alone !
91
00:11:10,803 --> 00:11:13,104
♪ because the nighttime ♪♪ night and day ♪
92
00:11:13,173 --> 00:11:16,807
♪ ah, is the right time ♪♪ night and day ♪
93
00:11:16,876 --> 00:11:19,910
♪ to be with the one you love ♪♪ night and day ♪♪
94
00:12:08,394 --> 00:12:10,428
Hey, are they
gonna execute us ?
95
00:12:10,497 --> 00:12:13,030
I wasn't even
doin' anything !
96
00:12:15,602 --> 00:12:18,035
Oh, man. I'm gonna have
a heart attack.
97
00:12:18,104 --> 00:12:20,070
I'm full on gonna
have a heart attack !
98
00:12:20,140 --> 00:12:22,940
Chin up, kid.
High tide raises
all ships.
99
00:12:23,009 --> 00:12:27,311
five more hours andwe would have been out of here.
Now we got nothin' !
100
00:12:27,380 --> 00:12:30,281
what are you talkin' about ?We got till ten.
101
00:12:30,350 --> 00:12:32,350
we're never gonnamake that plane.
102
00:12:32,418 --> 00:12:34,485
The harbor's
only a mile away.
103
00:12:34,554 --> 00:12:36,554
We're in jail, mickey.
104
00:12:38,207 --> 00:12:40,525
This ain't about
bein' caged, man.
105
00:12:42,262 --> 00:12:48,132
I've seen birds in cages,
and you ain't no bird.
All right ?
106
00:12:48,201 --> 00:12:51,001
Do you know that birds
are the direct descendants
of dinosaurs ?
107
00:12:51,070 --> 00:12:54,905
They used to have teeth
and shit. Them guys was fast,
even the girl ones.
108
00:12:54,974 --> 00:12:58,942
You know what "dinosaur"
means ? It's greek, man.
109
00:12:59,011 --> 00:13:02,480
It means, "terrible lizard."
think about that.
110
00:13:08,888 --> 00:13:11,155
hey ! That's my board !What'll we do ?
111
00:13:11,224 --> 00:13:13,591
Run like hell !
112
00:13:25,971 --> 00:13:28,172
Come on, little girls,don't run homein your underwear !
113
00:13:28,241 --> 00:13:30,641
Come back here !
114
00:13:46,859 --> 00:13:48,826
I sense angels
at work here, boys.
115
00:13:51,531 --> 00:13:53,598
There's
that taxi again !
116
00:13:58,238 --> 00:14:02,240
Look out ! Hey !
117
00:14:02,308 --> 00:14:05,142
Charge !
118
00:14:05,211 --> 00:14:07,911
hey, come on !
119
00:14:07,980 --> 00:14:10,147
Pull me up !
120
00:14:26,499 --> 00:14:29,900
look at thatstinkin' boat.
It's the mostbeautiful thing I've ever seen.
121
00:14:29,969 --> 00:14:31,902
It's an epiphany.Know what an epiphany is ?
122
00:14:31,971 --> 00:14:36,039
not now, mickey.Can't you see ?We're in trouble !
123
00:14:44,384 --> 00:14:48,486
No tv ! No diet colas !
124
00:14:48,554 --> 00:14:51,955
No shopping malls !
Do you hear me, cue ball ?
125
00:14:58,531 --> 00:15:00,831
hey ! Hands off !
126
00:15:00,900 --> 00:15:03,668
I said, leave
our women alone !
127
00:16:16,476 --> 00:16:19,309
Come on, get over here !
This thing's gonna take off !
128
00:16:26,853 --> 00:16:28,886
every sport hasits own mythology.
129
00:16:30,590 --> 00:16:32,823
Its legends:
130
00:16:32,892 --> 00:16:34,925
Joe louis, muhammad ali,
131
00:16:34,994 --> 00:16:37,361
Over here.
Come on in !
Mickey mantle, babe ruth,
132
00:16:37,430 --> 00:16:39,296
Michael jordan.
133
00:16:39,365 --> 00:16:42,065
Faces you see
on television.
134
00:16:43,636 --> 00:16:46,704
Surfing has
its own mythology too.
135
00:16:46,773 --> 00:16:49,573
Most of it basedon what you never see.
136
00:16:49,642 --> 00:16:51,776
Hang on, mickey.
Hang in there, buddy.
137
00:16:51,844 --> 00:16:54,978
stories of great rides,told over and over again...
138
00:16:55,047 --> 00:16:58,783
Of unimaginable waves
in obscure, faraway places.
139
00:16:58,851 --> 00:17:01,919
These are the peoplewho seek these moments out,
140
00:17:01,987 --> 00:17:06,924
Traveling like spiritsfrom country to country.
141
00:17:06,992 --> 00:17:09,427
- you okay ? Good, get in.- I'm okay.
142
00:17:41,961 --> 00:17:44,127
♪ ain't no rain or sunshine ♪
143
00:17:44,196 --> 00:17:48,499
♪ I'm glory boundget your hands up now ♪
144
00:17:48,568 --> 00:17:53,136
♪ get glory boundget your hands on now ♪
145
00:17:53,205 --> 00:17:57,174
♪ get glory boundget your hands on now ♪
146
00:17:58,678 --> 00:18:02,980
♪ a song could do ita song could do it, do it ♪
147
00:18:03,048 --> 00:18:08,185
♪ glory boundget your hands up now ♪
148
00:18:08,253 --> 00:18:13,123
♪ ain't no foolin'ain't no foolin'come on around ♪
149
00:18:13,192 --> 00:18:16,861
♪ ain't no foolinain't no foolin'come on around ♪
150
00:18:16,929 --> 00:18:21,231
♪ get your hands up nowsingin' ♪
151
00:18:43,990 --> 00:18:46,757
That son of a bitch.
I'll tell you about
that son of a bitch.
152
00:18:46,826 --> 00:18:49,660
Before enlightenment,
chop wood, carry water.
153
00:18:49,729 --> 00:18:54,297
After enlightenment,chop wood, carry water.
154
00:18:54,366 --> 00:18:56,767
Kissed by nature.Not a bad guy to havearound...
155
00:18:56,836 --> 00:18:59,403
When your back's up
against a wall, either.
156
00:18:59,471 --> 00:19:03,841
I like you, mickey.
You're a good lad.
157
00:19:03,910 --> 00:19:07,210
Well, thank you, captain.
That's a very nice thing
of you to say.
158
00:19:09,314 --> 00:19:11,549
Straight flush.
159
00:19:11,617 --> 00:19:14,518
I sure hopethis doesn't screwthings up between us.
160
00:19:17,757 --> 00:19:20,457
♪ glory boundget your hands on now ♪
161
00:19:20,526 --> 00:19:24,127
- Hey, keoni ! Happy birthday.
- Thanks.
162
00:19:24,196 --> 00:19:26,229
Ah, it's
a good life.
163
00:19:26,298 --> 00:19:30,868
♪ gettin' glory boundget your hands on now ♪
164
00:19:30,937 --> 00:19:35,539
♪ song could do ita song could do it, do it ♪
165
00:19:35,608 --> 00:19:40,277
♪ glory boundget your hands up now ♪
166
00:19:40,345 --> 00:19:45,382
♪ ain't no foolin'ain't no foolin'come on around ♪
167
00:19:45,451 --> 00:19:49,453
♪ ain't no foolin'ain't no foolin'come on around ♪♪
168
00:19:58,230 --> 00:20:01,632
This isn't justa skateboard ramp, all right ?
169
00:20:01,701 --> 00:20:05,736
We-- we build temples
to adrenaline.
170
00:20:05,805 --> 00:20:08,438
This is like chinesearchitecture, you know ?
171
00:20:08,507 --> 00:20:12,109
'cause they didn't buildto the size of the human body.
172
00:20:12,177 --> 00:20:14,912
They built temples to the size
of the human spirit.
173
00:20:14,981 --> 00:20:18,916
♪ I add some painI became your satellite ♪
174
00:20:18,985 --> 00:20:21,518
♪ got to get it all right ♪
175
00:20:21,587 --> 00:20:24,454
♪ psyched, I knowa man called sylvester ♪
176
00:20:24,523 --> 00:20:27,457
♪ have to weara bulletproof vest, y'all ♪
177
00:20:27,526 --> 00:20:30,494
♪ no kinda wayno kinda way at all ♪
178
00:20:30,562 --> 00:20:33,964
♪ music mythchildren learn ♪
179
00:20:34,033 --> 00:20:36,366
♪ ride on ♪♪ ride on ♪
180
00:20:36,435 --> 00:20:38,902
♪ into the foam ♪♪ into the foam ♪
181
00:20:41,473 --> 00:20:47,077
♪ ride oninto the foam ♪♪ hey ♪
182
00:21:19,712 --> 00:21:22,179
♪ ride on ♪♪
183
00:21:52,961 --> 00:21:56,663
You know where
waves come from ?
184
00:21:56,732 --> 00:21:58,865
Imagine
you're a giant...
185
00:21:58,934 --> 00:22:02,603
Standing in the middle
of the bay of alaska.
186
00:22:02,671 --> 00:22:04,638
You drop a boulder
in the water.
187
00:22:07,209 --> 00:22:09,976
And the rings fan out.
188
00:22:10,045 --> 00:22:14,047
The swells keep going untilsomething gets in their way:
189
00:22:14,116 --> 00:22:18,785
An island, a continent,
190
00:22:18,854 --> 00:22:24,724
A reef, something
that forces them to peak...
191
00:22:24,793 --> 00:22:28,462
And break...
And roll.
192
00:22:33,135 --> 00:22:35,169
That makesense to you ?
193
00:22:37,173 --> 00:22:39,072
Probably not.
194
00:22:39,141 --> 00:22:41,841
If you understood what
I was saying, I probably
wouldn't be saying it.
195
00:22:45,581 --> 00:22:47,747
Say a big swell hits Hawaii,
196
00:22:47,816 --> 00:22:51,185
And you ride one of those
huge waves there.
197
00:22:51,253 --> 00:22:55,289
The wave folds back
together on the other
side of the island,
198
00:22:57,326 --> 00:22:59,493
And back outacross the ocean--
199
00:22:59,562 --> 00:23:03,797
Like these rings--to wherever it needs to go.
200
00:23:06,535 --> 00:23:09,769
Then all you would
need to do to ride
it again...
201
00:23:09,838 --> 00:23:12,472
Is find out where
it's headed next--
202
00:23:12,541 --> 00:23:14,741
To beat it there...
203
00:23:14,810 --> 00:23:16,810
However you can.
204
00:23:19,415 --> 00:23:21,348
It's whatI've been doing.
205
00:23:21,417 --> 00:23:24,017
I'm tryingto figure it out.
206
00:23:24,086 --> 00:23:27,621
Why is it, when the waves
are just right,
207
00:23:27,690 --> 00:23:30,190
When it's big enough
and hollow enough,
208
00:23:30,259 --> 00:23:33,327
And I'm inside of it,
209
00:23:33,395 --> 00:23:37,864
Everything--
whatever I'm doing,
210
00:23:37,933 --> 00:23:40,434
Why I'm doin' it--
211
00:23:40,502 --> 00:23:44,238
In that momentit all makes sense ?
212
00:23:47,543 --> 00:23:52,679
Most everybody wants
something else from it.
213
00:23:52,748 --> 00:23:56,750
I'm afraid
if I ask for more,
it'll all disappear.
214
00:24:20,442 --> 00:24:22,576
Hey, I'd be careful
if I were you.
215
00:24:22,645 --> 00:24:24,911
I know you'rethe captain's daughter and all.
216
00:24:24,980 --> 00:24:27,547
We just got into a bunchof trouble because of a woman.
217
00:24:27,616 --> 00:24:31,251
- Scared me to death.
- You're very young.
218
00:24:32,788 --> 00:24:35,989
Yeah. I am young.
219
00:24:40,862 --> 00:24:43,129
Where's your home ?
I live with my friends.
220
00:24:43,198 --> 00:24:45,432
Wherever the surf's good.
221
00:24:45,501 --> 00:24:47,734
You know mickey ?
222
00:24:47,803 --> 00:24:50,537
He used to be number two
in the world.
223
00:24:50,606 --> 00:24:52,872
Pro tour and everything.
224
00:24:52,941 --> 00:24:54,974
Could have been
number one, but--
225
00:24:55,043 --> 00:24:59,780
I don't know. See him ?He's the best in the world.
226
00:24:59,848 --> 00:25:03,684
That's what mickey says.That's what everybody says.
227
00:25:03,752 --> 00:25:06,620
Won't competeon the tour, though.Don't know why.
228
00:25:06,689 --> 00:25:10,256
Guess he doesn'tlike hotel roomsor something like that.
229
00:25:10,326 --> 00:25:12,459
But... He's a hot surfer.
230
00:25:12,528 --> 00:25:14,461
I guess that's all
that matters.
231
00:25:14,530 --> 00:25:18,298
When I'm old enough,I'm going on that tour...
232
00:25:18,367 --> 00:25:20,300
And cashing in,
making a million bucks...
233
00:25:20,369 --> 00:25:23,337
And buyin' my mom a house
and fixin' her teeth.
234
00:25:23,405 --> 00:25:26,005
'cause everybody's got
to have beautiful teeth.
235
00:25:26,074 --> 00:25:28,074
Even moms.
236
00:25:29,845 --> 00:25:31,845
Do you knowthat salt water...
237
00:25:31,913 --> 00:25:33,880
Is the most closely
related to human blood ?
238
00:25:33,949 --> 00:25:36,817
And you know what
that reminds me of ?
Our own essence, gentlemen.
239
00:25:48,764 --> 00:25:51,331
Lookin' sharp.Lookin' sharp.
240
00:26:42,300 --> 00:26:44,267
She wants
to go with ya.
241
00:26:45,904 --> 00:26:48,605
When my wife
was alive,
242
00:26:48,674 --> 00:26:51,408
We found heron the streets of rioas a child.
243
00:26:51,477 --> 00:26:53,710
I brought her on boardto save her life.
244
00:26:57,048 --> 00:27:01,317
She recognizes herself
in ya. Same eyes.
245
00:27:01,387 --> 00:27:05,922
Same heart.Without lies.
246
00:27:05,991 --> 00:27:08,892
Takin' onlywhat you need.
247
00:27:08,960 --> 00:27:11,227
Givin' only
what you can.
248
00:27:11,296 --> 00:27:15,131
She feels safe with ya,
249
00:27:15,200 --> 00:27:19,770
Although she knows
she'll never stay
with ya forever.
250
00:28:12,858 --> 00:28:17,193
Kick his ass !
Go to him,
go to him.
251
00:28:20,599 --> 00:28:24,400
no, no. Go on, mickey.Take this hippie.
252
00:28:24,470 --> 00:28:27,003
Whaddya mean ?
I got him right
where I want him !
253
00:28:27,072 --> 00:28:29,639
I got this fuckin' guyright where I want him.
254
00:28:29,708 --> 00:28:32,175
Kick his ass !
255
00:28:43,522 --> 00:28:46,656
four and 0, four and 0.Come on !
256
00:28:46,725 --> 00:28:49,258
How much we bet ?
- All of it.
257
00:28:49,327 --> 00:28:51,561
You lose, we don't eat.
258
00:28:53,231 --> 00:28:55,532
I'm gonna
kick your butt.
259
00:28:58,704 --> 00:29:01,838
A little hot sauce'll
fix this guy.
The old caliente.
260
00:29:09,681 --> 00:29:11,648
Come on, mickey.
Now !
261
00:29:15,153 --> 00:29:17,654
You enjoying
your visit to bali ?
262
00:29:17,723 --> 00:29:21,190
Jet lag's
got me down a bit,
but I'll get used to it.
263
00:30:01,099 --> 00:30:04,267
♪ baby, please ♪
264
00:30:04,335 --> 00:30:07,704
♪ baby, please set a day ♪
265
00:30:10,375 --> 00:30:13,610
♪ baby, please ♪
266
00:30:13,679 --> 00:30:17,180
♪ baby, please set a day ♪
267
00:30:19,517 --> 00:30:22,185
♪ please don't say tomorrow ♪
268
00:30:22,253 --> 00:30:24,520
Soon as my friends and I
get it together...
269
00:30:24,590 --> 00:30:27,523
And all these people
move out of the way,
we're gonna move the car.
270
00:30:31,730 --> 00:30:35,865
Yeah, if I understood a wordyou said, it would be helpful,but obviously I don't.
271
00:30:35,934 --> 00:30:39,069
Wyatt, my man !
Hey, nice to see you,
man. How you been ?
272
00:30:39,137 --> 00:30:41,605
no problem.
273
00:30:41,673 --> 00:30:44,641
these guys are
friends of mine.
274
00:30:44,710 --> 00:30:47,777
Mab.
- Hey, domo, man.
275
00:30:47,846 --> 00:30:49,813
How's it, man ?
- Hey !
276
00:30:49,881 --> 00:30:52,148
Good to see ya.
What's happening, rush ?
277
00:30:57,055 --> 00:30:59,889
Rush ! Brian !
Unreal, man.
Good to see ya.
278
00:30:59,958 --> 00:31:01,925
Long time.
Wow.
279
00:31:06,564 --> 00:31:08,965
♪ baby, please ♪
gotta get back in shape.
280
00:31:09,034 --> 00:31:11,001
It's been a long summer.
♪ baby, please set a day ♪♪
281
00:31:11,069 --> 00:31:16,673
- I believe these belong to you.
- Keep them. You never know
when you might need them.
282
00:31:17,909 --> 00:31:21,678
- Who are you ?
- Just a fan.
283
00:31:21,747 --> 00:31:25,949
What's up, darrick ?
I was hoping I'd get here
in time to train with you guys.
284
00:31:26,018 --> 00:31:28,118
there are only a handfulof surfers in the world...
285
00:31:28,186 --> 00:31:32,388
With the courage and skillto ride really big waves.
286
00:31:32,457 --> 00:31:34,924
And here, in a marketplacein bali,
287
00:31:34,993 --> 00:31:37,326
On the other sideof the world,
288
00:31:37,395 --> 00:31:39,829
He was about to becomeone of them.
289
00:31:39,898 --> 00:31:42,065
some mornings, when I wake up,
290
00:31:42,134 --> 00:31:45,168
Before my first cup of coffee,i look in the mirror.
291
00:31:45,236 --> 00:31:48,171
I think to myself,
is today the last day
I'm gonna be alive ?
292
00:31:48,239 --> 00:31:50,940
'cause you never know
when you're gonna go.
293
00:31:51,009 --> 00:31:54,077
When you come out of that wave,if something goes wrong,
294
00:31:54,146 --> 00:31:56,112
The jet ski isyour only salvation.
295
00:31:56,181 --> 00:31:59,816
Jet skis, tow ropes.
You guys got equipment
on the brain.
296
00:31:59,885 --> 00:32:01,851
I'm comin' to Hawaii
this winter,
and I'm gonna paddle...
297
00:32:01,920 --> 00:32:04,821
Into one of those
40-foot sons of bitches
with my bare hands.
298
00:32:04,890 --> 00:32:07,891
What are you talking about,
mickey ? There's no way you can
paddle in. It's just too big.
299
00:32:07,959 --> 00:32:10,493
- It's just a wave, man.
- It's too fast.
300
00:32:10,562 --> 00:32:14,430
- That is horseshit ! It's just a wave.
- You can't paddle 35 m.P.H.
301
00:32:14,499 --> 00:32:17,300
It's just a wave, man.A big mother of a wave, yes.
302
00:32:17,368 --> 00:32:21,270
But it's just a wave !
You gotta be in the right place
at the right time !
303
00:32:23,208 --> 00:32:25,141
Dream on.
304
00:32:25,210 --> 00:32:28,044
Then why don't you tow me in ?
You, no problem.
305
00:32:28,113 --> 00:32:30,346
For him ?
306
00:32:30,415 --> 00:32:32,849
No way.
307
00:32:32,918 --> 00:32:35,418
- And just why the hell not ?
- because, Mickey, you're crazy.
308
00:32:35,486 --> 00:32:38,088
- Everybody knows that.
- Well, thank you, keoni.
309
00:32:38,156 --> 00:32:40,156
I love you too.
310
00:32:40,225 --> 00:32:42,491
But I will tell
you three guys one thing.
311
00:32:42,560 --> 00:32:44,660
For us,the partying's over.
312
00:32:44,730 --> 00:32:48,664
Starting tomorrow,
we train all day, every day.
313
00:32:48,734 --> 00:32:51,300
That's reality.
314
00:33:01,246 --> 00:33:03,613
♪ all around the world ♪
315
00:33:03,681 --> 00:33:06,116
Two... Three !
316
00:33:06,184 --> 00:33:09,786
♪ no one understands meno one knowswhat I'm tryin' to say ♪
317
00:33:12,758 --> 00:33:16,226
♪ everywhere I gono one understands me ♪
318
00:33:16,294 --> 00:33:18,361
♪ they look at mewhen I talk to them ♪
319
00:33:18,429 --> 00:33:20,263
♪ and they scratch their heads ♪
320
00:33:20,331 --> 00:33:23,499
♪ they gowhat's he tryin' to say ♪
321
00:33:23,568 --> 00:33:28,905
♪ oh, but youyou speak my language ♪
322
00:33:31,810 --> 00:33:36,345
♪ but youyou speak my language ♪
323
00:33:36,414 --> 00:33:39,515
♪ yeah ♪♪ yeah ♪♪
324
00:33:41,686 --> 00:33:45,388
there aretwo types of surfers thatwe have to be concerned with...
325
00:33:45,456 --> 00:33:48,057
In surfing wavesthat actually kill you.
326
00:33:48,126 --> 00:33:50,593
One is gung ho.
327
00:33:50,662 --> 00:33:52,829
This guy does not
consider the risk.
328
00:33:52,898 --> 00:33:55,131
The other guy
is gun shy.
329
00:33:55,200 --> 00:33:57,967
He does not want
to accept the risk.
330
00:33:58,036 --> 00:34:01,304
In this cage right here,
gun shy and gung ho,
331
00:34:01,372 --> 00:34:03,239
One focuses
on his abilities,
332
00:34:03,308 --> 00:34:05,741
And the other focuses
on his limitation.
333
00:34:05,811 --> 00:34:09,045
Pete, what isthe worst-case scenarioyou can think of ?
334
00:34:10,682 --> 00:34:14,851
The worst-case scenario
I can see, if someone goes
down on a big wave,
335
00:34:14,920 --> 00:34:18,154
And gets held underor maybe shoved into a cave.
336
00:34:18,223 --> 00:34:22,025
When the rescue teamgoes in to get him,they can't find him.
337
00:34:23,661 --> 00:34:27,096
rush, what isthe worst-case scenarioin this extreme surf ?
338
00:34:27,165 --> 00:34:30,033
I think, if you let go
of the rope too soon,
339
00:34:30,101 --> 00:34:33,336
And you fade to the bottomof the pit with no speed...
340
00:34:33,404 --> 00:34:35,604
And the wave just comesfrom behind and takes you out.
341
00:34:35,673 --> 00:34:39,175
Gobbles you up.
342
00:34:39,244 --> 00:34:42,312
Shane.
343
00:34:42,380 --> 00:34:44,547
I think the worst-case scenario
would be...
344
00:34:44,615 --> 00:34:47,183
To get sucked over the falls
on a really, really big wave,
345
00:34:47,252 --> 00:34:51,620
And lose all your air on impactand get sucked down really far;
346
00:34:51,689 --> 00:34:56,559
Like, 30 or 40 feet deep,
you know, and you're
getting darker and darker,
347
00:34:58,029 --> 00:35:01,264
And all the cloudssurrounding you,
348
00:35:01,333 --> 00:35:03,199
Like you're just aboutready to black out...
349
00:35:03,268 --> 00:35:05,268
And it's really loudand dark.
350
00:35:06,804 --> 00:35:10,874
I think that would be a really--like a really bad scenario.
351
00:35:20,318 --> 00:35:22,886
- how long have you lived here ?
- forever.
352
00:35:22,954 --> 00:35:27,790
Came here for the surf.
Couldn't see leaving.
353
00:35:27,859 --> 00:35:31,861
I travel.
But I always come back.
354
00:35:31,930 --> 00:35:35,431
You a writer ?
- Yup.
355
00:35:35,500 --> 00:35:38,768
- Got a wife ?
- Mm-hmm.
356
00:35:38,836 --> 00:35:40,803
Kids ?
- Yeah, three.
357
00:35:40,872 --> 00:35:43,039
Girls.
- They surf ?
358
00:35:43,108 --> 00:35:45,741
Of course.
359
00:36:56,681 --> 00:36:59,048
The navy's got these thingscalled "rebreathers."
360
00:36:59,117 --> 00:37:03,786
Put it in your mouth,
and it pulls all the oxygen
right out of the water.
361
00:37:03,855 --> 00:37:07,723
Won't be long tillwe stay down indefinitely.
362
00:37:09,194 --> 00:37:13,129
Rebreathers, my ass.
Guys sound like
a bunch of astronauts.
363
00:37:13,198 --> 00:37:16,499
Here's the news:
You guys don't tow me in,
I'm gonna paddle in.
364
00:37:16,567 --> 00:37:19,935
You don't think I knowwhat I'm doing ? I wasnumber two in the world.
365
00:37:20,005 --> 00:37:23,172
Full on, mickey,
number two, man.
Full on !
366
00:37:23,241 --> 00:37:25,875
That was eight years ago.
Eight long years, bro.
367
00:37:25,943 --> 00:37:29,178
Eight years ?
eight years,eight years, eight years !
368
00:37:29,247 --> 00:37:32,181
Eight years, eight years--
eight years, my ass !
369
00:37:32,250 --> 00:37:34,683
eight years !
370
00:37:51,969 --> 00:37:54,037
the other thing thatwe have to also understand...
371
00:37:54,105 --> 00:37:57,407
Is that we can augmentour own abilities...
372
00:37:57,475 --> 00:37:59,775
Through the technology
that we have.
373
00:37:59,844 --> 00:38:02,978
But technologyisn't everything; you needthe speed, the strength,
374
00:38:03,048 --> 00:38:05,381
To handle those kindof poundings.
375
00:38:05,450 --> 00:38:07,417
You need to be as quickand agile to fly,
376
00:38:07,485 --> 00:38:11,354
And you need to beas flexible as you can beto reduce injury.
377
00:38:25,570 --> 00:38:28,171
As we all know,when we surf big waves,
378
00:38:28,239 --> 00:38:30,739
You can be held underfor more than one wave.
379
00:38:30,808 --> 00:38:34,177
You can be held underfor a two-wave hold down.
380
00:38:34,245 --> 00:38:36,912
You could even beheld under for three waves.
381
00:38:39,650 --> 00:38:43,652
We understand the risk that'sinvolved. We know exactlywhat we're up against.
382
00:38:43,721 --> 00:38:48,157
We know exactlywhat our bodiesare able to do.
383
00:38:59,137 --> 00:39:02,771
Practiceextreme safety...
384
00:39:02,840 --> 00:39:05,274
When we're doingextreme things.
385
00:39:09,780 --> 00:39:13,516
technology is taking surfinginto another dimension,
386
00:39:13,585 --> 00:39:16,819
Allowing a rider to matchthe speed of a 50-foot wave,
387
00:39:16,887 --> 00:39:19,989
Traveling at 35 miles per hour.
388
00:39:20,057 --> 00:39:23,826
But the question is,at what price ?
389
00:39:23,894 --> 00:39:27,330
Will only the most skilledstand a chance to survive ?
390
00:39:27,398 --> 00:39:29,932
To ride waves this big...
391
00:39:30,001 --> 00:39:31,967
Is to put yourself...
392
00:39:32,036 --> 00:39:35,104
In god's hands.
393
00:40:19,284 --> 00:40:21,217
What's the matter ?
You all right ?
394
00:40:21,286 --> 00:40:23,319
side pain.
395
00:40:23,388 --> 00:40:25,354
Can't breathe.
What's up ?
396
00:40:27,225 --> 00:40:30,526
All right, keoni.
What is it ?
Take a deep breath.
397
00:40:30,595 --> 00:40:33,262
Breathe. Relax.
398
00:40:33,331 --> 00:40:36,865
Relax.
Okay, let's walk him home.
Get him up.
399
00:41:05,963 --> 00:41:08,030
he's burnin' up.
400
00:41:13,804 --> 00:41:16,805
Maybe malaria.
401
00:41:16,874 --> 00:41:19,742
I'll be fine.
402
00:41:19,810 --> 00:41:22,511
Hey, no matter what,
no hospitals, okay ?
403
00:41:22,580 --> 00:41:24,580
'cause I hate doctors.
404
00:41:27,252 --> 00:41:29,151
One time, my mom...
405
00:41:29,220 --> 00:41:32,521
Had this skin disease.
406
00:41:32,590 --> 00:41:35,958
It got really infected,and we had to take herto the hospital.
407
00:41:38,730 --> 00:41:42,431
Stupid doctor gave her
all the wrong things.
408
00:41:42,500 --> 00:41:46,201
ruined her teeth.
409
00:41:46,271 --> 00:41:49,238
Ruined her hair.
410
00:41:49,307 --> 00:41:53,776
She made her look all old.
411
00:41:53,844 --> 00:41:57,079
My dad freaked.
412
00:41:57,148 --> 00:42:00,316
Drove his truck right through
the doc's living room.
413
00:42:02,019 --> 00:42:05,288
right through
the picture window.
414
00:42:11,396 --> 00:42:14,563
You'll be okay.
You're strong.
415
00:42:17,168 --> 00:42:19,134
Strongest man on earth.
416
00:42:45,596 --> 00:42:47,996
- what is this place ?
- my home.
417
00:42:48,065 --> 00:42:51,467
there's this rock concertonce a year.
418
00:42:51,536 --> 00:42:54,870
We get invaded for three days,and then they'll all disappear.
419
00:43:08,586 --> 00:43:11,220
Daddy !
- Daddy !
420
00:43:11,288 --> 00:43:13,356
Daddy !Daddy, daddy !
421
00:43:13,424 --> 00:43:15,190
Daddy !
- Daddy !
422
00:43:15,259 --> 00:43:18,761
Hello, girls.
Hi, daddy.
Hi, daddy.
423
00:43:20,765 --> 00:43:22,765
Hi !
424
00:43:24,702 --> 00:43:28,103
Look how big you are.
Oh, god, I missed you.
425
00:43:31,208 --> 00:43:33,175
Wyatt !
426
00:43:57,735 --> 00:44:00,102
It's not like I'm dyin'
or anything, man.
427
00:44:00,170 --> 00:44:02,705
I just got a temperature
or somethin'.
428
00:44:02,774 --> 00:44:05,340
Everybody's gota weak spot.
429
00:44:05,410 --> 00:44:07,910
help me get him to my house.
430
00:44:11,549 --> 00:44:14,750
Serena's with him.
Hope it's not malaria.
431
00:44:34,004 --> 00:44:38,674
welcome travelers.Time to rock.
432
00:44:38,743 --> 00:44:42,110
Just remember,for the next 72 hours,
433
00:44:42,179 --> 00:44:45,080
We are guestsin another people's land.
434
00:44:45,149 --> 00:44:49,452
So listen up.There's trash cansand port-a-potties galore.
435
00:44:49,520 --> 00:44:51,420
I need graphite too.
436
00:44:51,489 --> 00:44:54,990
So spend wisely,and if you choose to partake,
437
00:44:55,059 --> 00:44:58,761
For heaven's sakes,be discreet.
438
00:44:58,830 --> 00:45:03,599
And above all,if you hit pay dirt,share thy bounty.
439
00:45:54,085 --> 00:45:58,087
this is for you,and this is for you.
440
00:46:10,567 --> 00:46:15,104
- How come you're not over
there with your friends ?
- Too many people.
441
00:46:16,440 --> 00:46:18,407
I know what you mean.
442
00:46:20,077 --> 00:46:22,611
I want
to show you something.
443
00:46:29,620 --> 00:46:32,654
All over the world,people are returningto their tribes.
444
00:46:33,757 --> 00:46:37,026
I don't blame them.
445
00:46:37,094 --> 00:46:41,280
Probably don't realize it,
but you and your friends
are part of a tribe.
446
00:46:41,349 --> 00:46:46,185
You think ?
- It's a tribe built
on mutual respect...
447
00:46:46,253 --> 00:46:50,289
And a common understanding
of what it takes
to do what we do.
448
00:46:52,893 --> 00:46:55,377
Never really
thought of it that way.
449
00:46:55,446 --> 00:46:58,246
What do you think
about riding waves that are
too big to paddle into ?
450
00:46:58,315 --> 00:47:01,083
Do they frighten you ?
- Yeah.
451
00:47:02,436 --> 00:47:04,620
What about
using a jet ski
to help you get in ?
452
00:47:06,307 --> 00:47:08,506
That's one way, yeah.
453
00:47:10,443 --> 00:47:14,813
Mickey thinks
they can be paddled into.
He hates jet skis.
454
00:47:16,117 --> 00:47:18,684
He thinks it takes
the purity away.
455
00:47:18,752 --> 00:47:21,002
What do you think ?
456
00:47:22,973 --> 00:47:25,424
I haven't really
made my mind up yet.
457
00:47:46,580 --> 00:47:51,667
♪ dream througha warning sign ♪
458
00:47:51,735 --> 00:47:54,303
It's morning.The night is over.
459
00:47:54,371 --> 00:47:59,607
♪ numb your senseslistless sleep of dreams ♪
460
00:47:59,676 --> 00:48:02,777
Hey. You okay ?
♪♪
461
00:48:02,846 --> 00:48:07,382
Rough night, huh ?
462
00:48:07,451 --> 00:48:10,002
The guys are out there trainin'.
I gotta get out there.
463
00:48:10,070 --> 00:48:12,971
You'll be all right.
They'll take care of you.
464
00:48:13,040 --> 00:48:15,340
Need anything ?
465
00:48:25,386 --> 00:48:29,621
Oh, man !
Come on, mickey. Focus.
466
00:48:29,689 --> 00:48:31,156
Focus.
- I got it.
467
00:48:49,043 --> 00:48:53,178
wait for the whip.Perfect. Perfect !
468
00:49:08,295 --> 00:49:10,262
faster ! Faster !
469
00:49:27,982 --> 00:49:30,449
This is wrong !
470
00:49:38,359 --> 00:49:40,325
I got it !
I got it !
471
00:49:44,031 --> 00:49:49,301
as I watchedthem train today, I was filledwith a certain sadness.
472
00:49:49,370 --> 00:49:54,939
so many people aspireto greatness; so few succeed.
473
00:49:55,009 --> 00:49:58,343
I could see the separationhappening before my eyes.
474
00:49:58,412 --> 00:50:01,880
- Good !
- The big waves of hawaiiwould be waiting for them.
475
00:50:01,948 --> 00:50:04,082
A challenge to one,
476
00:50:04,151 --> 00:50:06,151
A threat to the other.
477
00:50:30,911 --> 00:50:34,046
It's gonna get worse
before it gets better.
478
00:50:37,251 --> 00:50:39,684
I wish there was more
i could do.
479
00:50:42,189 --> 00:50:45,123
You could talk to me.
480
00:50:45,192 --> 00:50:47,592
I like itwhen you talk to me.
481
00:50:49,629 --> 00:50:53,131
Did you see me
out there today ?
482
00:50:53,200 --> 00:50:55,733
I heard
it was brutal.
483
00:50:57,938 --> 00:51:00,638
That's my point
exactly.
484
00:51:00,707 --> 00:51:04,943
Shane got it.
You'll get it.
485
00:51:05,011 --> 00:51:06,945
Takes time.
486
00:51:07,013 --> 00:51:11,783
You were number two
in the world, mickey.
487
00:51:11,851 --> 00:51:15,753
Yeah. I was.
488
00:51:21,661 --> 00:51:24,563
just got word from hawaii.There's a huge swell coming in.
489
00:51:24,631 --> 00:51:27,599
Huge.
- We'd love to hang with you guys,
but I think it's time to go.
490
00:51:27,667 --> 00:51:30,235
might only get one shot
at a swell this big.
491
00:51:30,304 --> 00:51:33,338
Well, we gotta hang around,
wait for the kid to get better.
Only take a couple of days.
492
00:51:33,407 --> 00:51:35,673
see ya in hawaii.
All right.
493
00:51:35,742 --> 00:51:37,642
We'll pick it up
where we left off.
- Right on.
494
00:51:37,711 --> 00:51:39,677
Hopefully, we'll get there
in time for the swell.
495
00:51:39,746 --> 00:51:43,781
All right.
496
00:51:45,152 --> 00:51:48,286
Hey, take care
of the kid, huh ?
Yeah, no problem.
497
00:53:15,342 --> 00:53:18,710
He ain't comin' in,
you know.
498
00:53:18,778 --> 00:53:21,112
I know.
499
00:53:21,181 --> 00:53:25,584
he's been preparin' to surfbig waves all his life.
500
00:53:25,652 --> 00:53:28,753
But he'd neverleave the kidwhile he was sick.
501
00:53:28,822 --> 00:53:33,157
He's got a strange wayof showing his feelings.
502
00:53:33,227 --> 00:53:37,395
You'll get used
to it.
- Hm.
503
00:53:48,875 --> 00:53:51,309
To all my friends,
good evening.
504
00:53:55,415 --> 00:54:00,017
brothers and sisters,i can't tell you how blessed weare to have you here tonight...
505
00:54:00,086 --> 00:54:03,355
At this musical carnivalof ours.
506
00:54:03,423 --> 00:54:05,624
And I want you
to give it up for skull.
507
00:54:08,562 --> 00:54:10,695
all the wayfrom stockholm, sweden !
508
00:54:14,534 --> 00:54:17,902
Whoo !
509
00:54:29,750 --> 00:54:31,416
♪ chaosit's a one-way ticket ♪
510
00:54:31,485 --> 00:54:33,551
♪ to chaos
and I'll be on ♪
511
00:54:33,620 --> 00:54:36,554
♪ chaosit's a one-way ticketto chaos ♪
512
00:54:36,623 --> 00:54:38,590
♪ chaos ♪♪
513
00:54:44,498 --> 00:54:47,999
I want to be just like you.
But I don't tell you that.
514
00:54:54,408 --> 00:54:57,342
You're strong.
515
00:54:57,411 --> 00:55:00,144
Strongest man
on earth.
516
00:55:17,063 --> 00:55:19,331
I said shut up !
517
00:56:03,577 --> 00:56:06,010
Shut up !
518
00:56:13,620 --> 00:56:16,588
leave me alone, alone, alone--
519
00:57:06,172 --> 00:57:08,440
Why you fightin' with me ?
520
00:57:08,508 --> 00:57:10,909
Let me go.
521
00:57:15,949 --> 00:57:19,651
It's okay.
You'll be okay.
522
00:57:23,323 --> 00:57:28,125
You'll be okay.
It's over.
523
00:57:33,667 --> 00:57:35,800
keoni's not getting any better.
524
00:57:38,137 --> 00:57:40,672
♪♪
I'm gonna take him home.
525
00:57:40,740 --> 00:57:42,740
Get him to a doctor.
526
00:57:43,726 --> 00:57:49,280
♪ blow you and I away ♪
527
00:57:49,349 --> 00:57:52,951
I knew when I came
with you it wouldn't
be forever.
528
00:57:55,254 --> 00:57:59,056
My father's boat's
coming back through.
529
00:57:59,125 --> 00:58:03,327
I miss him.♪ when the earth below ♪
530
00:58:03,396 --> 00:58:09,033
♪ shakes us fromeach other's arms ♪
- shane--
531
00:58:09,102 --> 00:58:14,506
It's been
a beautiful journey.
♪ I'll never forget you ♪
532
00:58:14,574 --> 00:58:19,043
♪ forget who you are ♪
i love you.
533
00:58:19,112 --> 00:58:24,248
♪ I'll stay alive ♪
534
00:58:25,451 --> 00:58:29,787
♪ with the warmthof your breath inside ♪
535
00:58:29,856 --> 00:58:34,826
♪ I'll watch you fly ♪
536
00:58:34,895 --> 00:58:39,363
♪ wipe the tearsfrom my eyes ♪♪
537
00:58:57,651 --> 00:59:00,418
hawaiian national sea
and weather forecast...
538
00:59:00,486 --> 00:59:04,255
For local coastal watersreporting small craft andshipping lanes stage five alert.
539
00:59:04,323 --> 00:59:06,824
Small craft warningsanticipated by 1800 hours.
540
00:59:06,893 --> 00:59:09,160
I'm ready.
541
00:59:09,228 --> 00:59:12,129
Fever's gone.Let's go !
542
00:59:14,500 --> 00:59:16,467
My point exactly.
543
00:59:23,577 --> 00:59:26,544
small craft and shipping lanesstage five alert.
544
00:59:29,783 --> 00:59:34,018
Does serena know
what I did ?
With the fire and all ?
545
00:59:34,087 --> 00:59:36,520
Yeah.
♪♪
546
00:59:38,558 --> 00:59:41,425
Was she mad ?
547
00:59:42,696 --> 00:59:44,662
No, she wasn't mad.
548
00:59:46,299 --> 00:59:49,433
I really liked her.
♪ lap up the rain ♪
549
00:59:49,502 --> 00:59:54,872
♪ released fromall my sin ♪
550
01:00:00,246 --> 01:00:06,250
♪ I runyou'll stay ♪
551
01:00:06,319 --> 01:00:11,288
♪ was all-night surfer red ♪
552
01:00:12,726 --> 01:00:16,661
♪ when I held youthat night ♪
553
01:00:16,730 --> 01:00:19,196
They beat us here.
554
01:00:19,265 --> 01:00:21,365
of course they did.
555
01:00:21,434 --> 01:00:24,736
You leave first,you get there first.
556
01:00:24,804 --> 01:00:28,873
♪♪ who's that guy
in the baseball cap ?
557
01:00:28,942 --> 01:00:31,876
That's the wizard.
Mike stewart--
558
01:00:31,945 --> 01:00:35,046
The only guywith guts enough to ridethis place on a body board.
559
01:00:35,115 --> 01:00:37,882
He's been mappin' the reefall summer.
560
01:00:38,885 --> 01:00:41,285
It'll be here
by morning.
561
01:00:45,091 --> 01:00:47,625
How big ?
562
01:00:47,694 --> 01:00:49,661
Big.
563
01:00:49,729 --> 01:00:52,196
♪ merry, merry, merry ♪
564
01:00:52,265 --> 01:00:55,833
♪ a merry, merry christmasto you ♪♪
565
01:01:39,445 --> 01:01:43,848
No hard feelings,
but, uh...
We took a vote.
566
01:01:43,917 --> 01:01:45,917
I'm not towing you in.
567
01:01:48,121 --> 01:01:50,221
Yeah, well, I'll be there
just the same.
568
01:01:50,289 --> 01:01:52,857
I'm not towing you in.
569
01:01:52,926 --> 01:01:55,593
Yeah, I know.
You voted.
570
01:01:57,630 --> 01:02:01,432
- Merry christmas, darrick.
- Mele kalikimaka to you too.
571
01:02:03,502 --> 01:02:06,670
Looks like the kid's
feeling better.
- Yeah.
572
01:02:19,719 --> 01:02:25,623
♪ she gave meher number and her eyeswere as big as the moon ♪
573
01:02:25,691 --> 01:02:29,727
♪ soon I know I'm gonna bein her arms tonight ♪
574
01:02:29,796 --> 01:02:32,429
♪ hugging and kissing ♪♪
575
01:02:33,800 --> 01:02:36,433
What's going on ?
576
01:02:44,878 --> 01:02:47,845
- Uuh !
- Jesus, mickey ! What the--
577
01:02:47,914 --> 01:02:50,114
- Stay out of this !
- What the hell's
wrong with you ?
578
01:02:50,183 --> 01:02:53,717
Shut up !You've been told !
579
01:02:55,855 --> 01:02:58,455
All right,so you ride one of thosebig sons of bitches tomorrow.
580
01:02:58,524 --> 01:03:00,958
Then what ?
What's it gonna prove ?
581
01:03:01,027 --> 01:03:04,128
I've never
tried to prove anything
to anyone in my whole life.
582
01:03:04,197 --> 01:03:08,166
get out on the pro tour and make some money !
Show people how good you are !
583
01:03:08,234 --> 01:03:10,768
Calm down.
- Shut up !
584
01:03:12,338 --> 01:03:16,007
You lose that step, man,
and it's gone.
585
01:03:16,075 --> 01:03:18,509
And it ain't comin' back.
586
01:03:20,680 --> 01:03:23,247
You're gonna burn out.
587
01:03:23,316 --> 01:03:25,482
People burn out.
588
01:04:02,438 --> 01:04:05,773
I'm paddling into
one of those bombs tomorrow.
589
01:04:05,841 --> 01:04:07,808
I know you are.
590
01:04:11,180 --> 01:04:14,315
I hate the stink
of those goddamn jet skis.
591
01:04:14,384 --> 01:04:16,717
I know you do.
592
01:04:21,190 --> 01:04:23,391
You think I'm nuts,
don't you ?
593
01:04:26,562 --> 01:04:28,529
It can be done,
you know.
594
01:04:28,597 --> 01:04:32,400
I know it can.
You just gotta catch it right.
595
01:04:41,010 --> 01:04:43,945
You ever gonna tell me
what's on your mind ?
596
01:04:46,882 --> 01:04:49,650
You ever gonna tell anybody
what's on your mind ?
597
01:04:54,090 --> 01:04:56,557
Jesus.
598
01:04:56,625 --> 01:04:59,093
I'm treatin' you
like a chick.
599
01:05:09,439 --> 01:05:11,905
Line up with the palm tree
on the cliff.
600
01:05:12,942 --> 01:05:15,443
Sit deep.
601
01:05:15,511 --> 01:05:20,281
The wind comin' up the face
is gonna be like
nothing you ever felt.
602
01:05:22,151 --> 01:05:24,151
This wave's an animal.
603
01:05:30,493 --> 01:05:33,461
imagine 50 to 60
olympic-size swimming pools...
604
01:05:33,529 --> 01:05:36,497
Converging all at once
on this reef shelf here.
605
01:05:36,565 --> 01:05:39,433
It's about 30 feet deep
when it initially breaks...
606
01:05:39,502 --> 01:05:41,869
And then it shallows out
to about 15 feet.
607
01:05:41,937 --> 01:05:44,771
So there's a lot of intensity
and force coming in all at once.
608
01:05:49,078 --> 01:05:52,113
♪ get off of my porch ♪
609
01:05:52,181 --> 01:05:54,281
You're up first.
610
01:05:54,350 --> 01:05:57,584
You're gonna run with it
a while outside.
I got the power.
611
01:05:57,653 --> 01:05:59,987
Forty, fifty miles an hour.
612
01:06:02,992 --> 01:06:07,861
I know it's gonna seem
like a long time, but wait--
wait for the whip.
613
01:06:07,930 --> 01:06:09,930
Hey.
Where's mickey ?
614
01:06:09,999 --> 01:06:12,199
Don't worry.
He'll be here.
615
01:06:14,003 --> 01:06:16,470
♪ I'm gonna get my pistol ♪
616
01:06:16,539 --> 01:06:20,941
♪ and call out the dogs ♪
617
01:06:21,010 --> 01:06:24,445
♪ I'm gonna get my razor ♪
618
01:06:24,514 --> 01:06:28,049
♪ and feed youto the hogs ♪
619
01:06:28,117 --> 01:06:30,817
the wave generally comes in
at a northwest direction,
620
01:06:30,886 --> 01:06:32,886
Maybe 350 degrees
on the compass.
621
01:06:32,955 --> 01:06:35,689
The waves surge
over the shelf
towards the beach.
622
01:06:35,758 --> 01:06:40,827
So if you can make itpast the initial intensityof that impact,
623
01:06:40,896 --> 01:06:43,397
The rest of this currentshould take youover to the channel.
624
01:06:43,466 --> 01:06:46,500
But you're gonna have
to hold your breath for
a good 80 yards underwater.
625
01:06:46,569 --> 01:06:49,403
So we're gonna be
in the mach ten express ?
Mach ten express.
626
01:07:11,494 --> 01:07:15,563
If the guy wipes out on the
inside corner and gets dragged
underwater to the inside,
627
01:07:15,631 --> 01:07:18,365
He's gonna get spit out
along the shoreline here...
628
01:07:18,434 --> 01:07:20,867
Because the current comes in
parallel with the beach.
629
01:07:20,936 --> 01:07:23,404
So watch here if you do get
caught in that inside section...
630
01:07:23,473 --> 01:07:26,373
Because it can wash you
onto the rocks.
631
01:07:57,607 --> 01:08:00,407
♪ I'm not goin' down ♪
632
01:08:00,476 --> 01:08:02,943
♪ so easy ♪
633
01:08:09,552 --> 01:08:13,187
what's mickey doing out here ?How'd he get out here ?
634
01:08:13,256 --> 01:08:16,823
Okay, guys.You gotta make surehe stays out of the way. Over.
635
01:08:26,802 --> 01:08:28,969
Shane's up ! Shane's up !
636
01:10:24,387 --> 01:10:29,790
I'll be taking off
on a 30-foot wave, impacting
the water at such speed,
637
01:10:29,858 --> 01:10:33,927
And hitting the bottom,which is about 40 feet deep...
638
01:10:33,996 --> 01:10:35,996
On jagged coral.
639
01:10:48,844 --> 01:10:51,545
Then hoping you surviveif you're getting carriedall the way in.
640
01:10:51,614 --> 01:10:53,614
It's possible.
641
01:11:39,328 --> 01:11:41,995
When I was pinned
to the bottom--
i jumped off the bottom.
642
01:11:42,064 --> 01:11:44,565
I couldn't get up.It pinned me back down.
643
01:11:44,633 --> 01:11:49,803
I started counting.I got to 21 seconds beforei pushed off the bottom again.
644
01:11:49,872 --> 01:11:54,541
Fortunately,
i saw a blue spot, and i
went through and I made it.
645
01:13:10,786 --> 01:13:13,620
man down, man down !Team one, team one.
646
01:13:20,329 --> 01:13:23,764
- Go, go ! Do something !
- mayday ! We got a man down !
647
01:14:26,562 --> 01:14:29,429
okay, we got a visual.Let's go.
648
01:14:29,498 --> 01:14:32,232
High speed, boys.High-speed pickup. Over.
649
01:14:33,669 --> 01:14:36,136
okay, wilford's got him.He's on board.
650
01:14:36,204 --> 01:14:38,972
okay, boys, vacate.Go back out in the channel.
651
01:14:46,549 --> 01:14:48,882
- what do you wanna do ?
- go again.
652
01:14:48,951 --> 01:14:51,552
You sure ?
- I'm sure.
653
01:15:19,281 --> 01:15:22,749
♪ when you see mein the cage ♪
654
01:15:22,818 --> 01:15:27,087
♪ you'll seekyou'll never find mein a rage ♪
655
01:15:53,616 --> 01:15:55,616
♪ I don't care ♪
656
01:16:02,691 --> 01:16:04,691
♪ I don't care ♪
657
01:16:11,433 --> 01:16:13,433
♪ I don't care ♪♪
658
01:16:27,049 --> 01:16:30,183
That has to be the biggest wavei ever saw in my whole life !
659
01:17:14,629 --> 01:17:16,997
You're up.
660
01:17:17,066 --> 01:17:19,966
Grab the rope.
I'll tow you in.
661
01:17:24,506 --> 01:17:26,506
I can't.
662
01:17:27,976 --> 01:17:29,976
I'm scared, man.
663
01:17:31,646 --> 01:17:34,447
Everybody's scared.
664
01:17:34,516 --> 01:17:36,516
I'm really scared.
665
01:17:58,273 --> 01:18:00,440
What do you wanna do ?
666
01:18:07,716 --> 01:18:10,951
How am I ever gonna
face that kid again ?
667
01:18:12,454 --> 01:18:15,088
How am I ever gonna
face anybody again ?
668
01:18:16,691 --> 01:18:21,294
It doesn't matter.
You just had a bad day.
Let it go.
669
01:18:24,867 --> 01:18:27,600
Go tell the kid I'm cool--
670
01:18:27,669 --> 01:18:30,170
That I'm just waiting
for the right one.
671
01:18:33,041 --> 01:18:35,242
I know you are,
mickey.
672
01:18:38,380 --> 01:18:40,513
It can be done, you know.
673
01:18:40,582 --> 01:18:42,883
You can paddle
into these waves.
674
01:18:43,919 --> 01:18:46,452
You could do it.
675
01:18:47,489 --> 01:18:50,356
♪ I'm waiting now ♪
676
01:18:51,827 --> 01:18:54,828
♪ awaiting rebirth ♪
677
01:18:55,864 --> 01:18:59,299
♪ craving itin the darkness ♪
678
01:19:01,170 --> 01:19:03,536
♪ ooh-ooh-ooh-ooh ♪
679
01:19:03,605 --> 01:19:06,306
What the hell's
going on out there ?
680
01:19:06,374 --> 01:19:09,242
- He said he's just waiting
for the right one.
- ♪ beautiful ♪
681
01:19:09,311 --> 01:19:11,311
♪ here ♪
682
01:19:21,890 --> 01:19:24,291
♪ breathing in god ♪
683
01:19:25,694 --> 01:19:28,895
♪ breathing in love ♪
684
01:19:38,673 --> 01:19:41,174
Jesus, mary and joseph.
685
01:19:41,243 --> 01:19:44,978
♪ it's beautiful here ♪
686
01:19:46,481 --> 01:19:51,985
- ♪ there is safety right here ♪
- mickey !
687
01:19:54,489 --> 01:19:56,923
♪ here ♪
688
01:19:56,992 --> 01:19:59,192
♪ wonderful ♪
689
01:19:59,261 --> 01:20:01,928
♪ seek care ♪
690
01:20:02,998 --> 01:20:07,100
♪ you ♪
691
01:20:11,240 --> 01:20:14,841
♪ feeling shame ♪
692
01:20:34,629 --> 01:20:37,563
♪ I'm born with you ♪
693
01:20:37,632 --> 01:20:42,369
♪ here, the shame ♪
694
01:20:45,640 --> 01:20:49,042
Mickey, no !Come on !
695
01:20:49,111 --> 01:20:51,477
We got a man down.
Go ! Do something !
696
01:21:08,997 --> 01:21:11,965
Get him ! Go !
Go, go ! Get him !
697
01:21:22,277 --> 01:21:24,777
♪ I have desire ♪
698
01:21:24,846 --> 01:21:27,780
♪ for the world ♪
699
01:21:29,517 --> 01:21:32,785
♪ and I have desire ♪
700
01:21:32,854 --> 01:21:34,821
♪ for you ♪
701
01:21:36,791 --> 01:21:38,891
He's not comin' up !
702
01:21:38,961 --> 01:21:43,096
♪ what will I thinkof this world ♪
703
01:21:46,301 --> 01:21:50,003
♪ what will I doin this world ♪
704
01:21:53,342 --> 01:21:58,945
♪ will I be afraidof this world ♪♪
705
01:23:41,749 --> 01:23:46,519
♪ in a crowded worldyou leave an empty house ♪
706
01:23:46,588 --> 01:23:50,323
♪ I see you're lonelyso leave me alone ♪
707
01:23:50,392 --> 01:23:52,392
♪ leave me alone ♪♪
708
01:24:34,068 --> 01:24:37,303
The big waves of hawaii.
709
01:24:40,675 --> 01:24:43,943
Until we ride,
we're just men...
710
01:24:44,012 --> 01:24:46,513
Waiting for a train.
711
01:25:25,086 --> 01:25:27,453
Mickey was right, you know.
712
01:25:27,522 --> 01:25:30,390
I hate the soundof those damn jet skis.
713
01:25:33,428 --> 01:25:35,861
Me too.
714
01:25:52,314 --> 01:25:54,947
My son ! Hi !
715
01:25:55,016 --> 01:25:57,016
I love you, keoni.
716
01:26:05,594 --> 01:26:08,194
I'm so sorry,mrs. Mccormick.
717
01:26:09,564 --> 01:26:11,497
I'm so sorry.
718
01:27:13,461 --> 01:27:16,562
What would you say
if I told you...
719
01:27:16,631 --> 01:27:19,432
That there'sa wave out there,
720
01:27:19,501 --> 01:27:22,702
And by the time it hitsthis little islandoff of mexico...
721
01:27:22,771 --> 01:27:25,104
It's gonna be massive,
722
01:27:25,173 --> 01:27:28,741
And all I can think about
is riding it ?
723
01:27:30,011 --> 01:27:31,977
Then what ?
724
01:27:34,549 --> 01:27:36,482
My point exactly.
725
01:27:36,551 --> 01:27:39,319
what's so funny ?
726
01:27:41,790 --> 01:27:44,791
You ever had
one of those friends
where it doesn't even matter--
727
01:27:44,859 --> 01:27:48,994
All you gotta do
is just think about him
and you smile ?
728
01:27:50,799 --> 01:27:52,799
No.
729
01:27:56,805 --> 01:27:58,771
That's too bad.
730
01:28:00,174 --> 01:28:04,544
♪ every chain ♪
731
01:28:04,612 --> 01:28:06,746
♪ today ♪
732
01:28:07,782 --> 01:28:11,484
♪ so I stay ♪
733
01:28:17,759 --> 01:28:20,259
♪ vow never ♪
734
01:28:20,328 --> 01:28:23,730
♪ ever again ♪
735
01:28:30,137 --> 01:28:34,640
♪ come ondive right in ♪
736
01:28:34,709 --> 01:28:37,810
♪ dive again ♪
737
01:28:37,879 --> 01:28:42,181
♪ my old friend ♪
738
01:28:43,251 --> 01:28:48,354
♪ your lovewill let you in ♪
739
01:28:49,391 --> 01:28:51,957
♪ but until ♪
740
01:28:52,026 --> 01:28:56,863
♪ the light ♪
741
01:29:01,469 --> 01:29:06,472
♪ it glows forever ♪
742
01:29:06,541 --> 01:29:12,412
♪ I will be there too ♪♪
743
01:30:20,114 --> 01:30:22,949
Muy peligroso.
744
01:30:30,424 --> 01:30:32,424
Gracias.
745
01:32:44,258 --> 01:32:46,391
so you wanna surf.
746
01:32:46,460 --> 01:32:50,896
And the waves near the townwhere you live aren't half bad.
747
01:32:52,800 --> 01:32:55,835
And then you hearabout this wave...
748
01:32:55,903 --> 01:32:58,203
In a faraway country...
749
01:32:58,272 --> 01:33:00,472
With a nameyou can't even pronounce.
750
01:33:00,541 --> 01:33:02,441
What then ?
751
01:33:04,078 --> 01:33:07,013
How far are youwilling to go ?
752
01:33:07,081 --> 01:33:10,016
What sacrificeare you willing to make ?
753
01:33:11,185 --> 01:33:14,186
How good do you reallywanna be ?
754
01:33:14,255 --> 01:33:18,157
Closed-captioned by
captions, inc. Los angeles
755
01:33:18,225 --> 01:33:23,562
♪ heaven ♪
756
01:33:23,631 --> 01:33:29,135
♪ savior of the whole world ♪
757
01:33:29,203 --> 01:33:35,374
♪ heaven ♪
758
01:33:35,442 --> 01:33:37,509
♪ love can make it ♪
759
01:33:37,578 --> 01:33:42,548
♪ love can take it in ♪
760
01:34:02,403 --> 01:34:05,971
♪ new moon in your star way ♪
761
01:34:07,558 --> 01:34:11,260
♪ it's to light your way ♪
762
01:34:13,631 --> 01:34:17,933
♪ you won't see the starlight ♪
763
01:34:18,002 --> 01:34:24,006
♪ you won't seethe stars bright ♪
764
01:34:24,074 --> 01:34:28,677
♪ it's a brand-new day ♪♪ heaven ♪
765
01:34:28,746 --> 01:34:32,748
♪ it's a brand-new day ♪♪ it's a brand-new day ♪
766
01:34:36,287 --> 01:34:40,922
♪ heaven ♪
767
01:34:41,992 --> 01:34:48,063
♪ sing all overthe whole world ♪
768
01:35:33,544 --> 01:35:37,979
♪ it's a brand-new day ♪♪ heaven ♪
769
01:35:38,048 --> 01:35:42,284
♪ you believe in me ♪
770
01:35:44,154 --> 01:35:49,458
♪ it's a brand-new day ♪♪ heaven ♪
771
01:35:49,527 --> 01:35:53,395
♪ you believe in me ♪
772
01:35:56,601 --> 01:36:00,336
♪ it's a brand-new day ♪♪ heaven ♪
773
01:36:00,404 --> 01:36:04,540
♪ it's a brand-new day ♪♪ it's a brand-new day ♪
774
01:36:07,177 --> 01:36:12,080
♪ it's a brand-new day ♪♪ heaven ♪
775
01:36:12,149 --> 01:36:15,851
♪ it's a brand-new day ♪♪ it's a brand-new day ♪
776
01:36:19,223 --> 01:36:23,359
♪ it's a brand-new day ♪♪ heaven ♪
777
01:36:29,367 --> 01:36:33,935
♪ it's a brand-new day ♪♪ heaven ♪
778
01:36:34,004 --> 01:36:38,741
♪ you believe in me ♪
779
01:36:40,611 --> 01:36:44,946
♪ it's a brand-new day ♪♪ heaven ♪
780
01:36:51,589 --> 01:36:56,759
♪ it's a brand-new day ♪♪ heaven ♪
781
01:37:02,833 --> 01:37:07,303
♪ it's a brand-new day ♪♪ heaven ♪
782
01:37:07,371 --> 01:37:11,607
♪ you believe in me ♪
783
01:37:13,944 --> 01:37:18,580
♪ it's a brand-new day ♪♪ heaven ♪
784
01:37:18,649 --> 01:37:23,185
♪ you believe in me ♪
785
01:37:24,722 --> 01:37:29,525
♪ it's a brand-new day ♪♪ heaven ♪
786
01:37:29,593 --> 01:37:35,163
♪ it's a brand-new day ♪♪
65353
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