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These are the user uploaded subtitles that are being translated: 1 00:00:00,000 --> 00:00:17,000 Music 2 00:00:17,000 --> 00:00:25,000 200 years ago, a young natural scientist traveled for five years throughout the Spanish colonies of South America. 3 00:00:25,000 --> 00:00:32,000 Music 4 00:00:32,000 --> 00:00:38,000 Such an ambitious scientific expedition had never before been attempted in the interior of the New World. 5 00:00:38,000 --> 00:00:45,000 On his return to Paris, tales of his exotic adventures in unknown jungles and on high 6 00:00:45,000 --> 00:00:53,000 Andean peaks captured the public's imagination and turned the scientific explorer into popular hero. 7 00:00:53,000 --> 00:00:59,000 Set at the time to be more famous than Napoleon. 8 00:00:59,000 --> 00:01:02,000 His name? 9 00:01:02,000 --> 00:01:05,000 Alexander von Humboldt. 10 00:01:05,000 --> 00:01:12,000 Applause 11 00:01:12,000 --> 00:01:18,000 Ladies and gentlemen, distinguished guests, dear friends, welcome. 12 00:01:18,000 --> 00:01:30,000 Music 13 00:01:30,000 --> 00:01:46,000 He was the last of the Universal Men who looked at any phenomenon and didn't just say how strange but said why and how and what. 14 00:01:46,000 --> 00:01:54,000 He is in our past and yet in some way some important ways we are only starting now to catch up with Humboldt. 15 00:01:54,000 --> 00:02:07,000 I think he inspired people, inspired people with his dedication, with his curiosity, with his magnificent science. 16 00:02:08,000 --> 00:02:15,000 Alexander von Humboldt was born into the German aristocracy in 1769. 17 00:02:15,000 --> 00:02:21,000 With his brother Wilhelm, he grew up on the family estate near Berlin. 18 00:02:21,000 --> 00:02:26,000 With his father's early death, family life became more difficult. 19 00:02:26,000 --> 00:02:32,000 The sensitive young Alexander would escape into a fantasy world of fiction and adventure, 20 00:02:32,000 --> 00:02:40,000 captivated by such stories as Robinson Crusoe and the maritime expeditions of Captain James Cook. 21 00:02:40,000 --> 00:02:46,000 In his heart, Alexander knew that he too was destined for adventure. 22 00:02:46,000 --> 00:02:55,000 Since my earliest youth, I had an intense desire to travel in those distant lands which have been rarely visited by Europeans. 23 00:02:55,000 --> 00:02:59,000 This urge brought me to a moment when life appears a boundless horizon, 24 00:02:59,000 --> 00:03:06,000 and nothing attracted me more than the awakening of new emotions and the intense thrill of danger. 25 00:03:06,000 --> 00:03:10,000 But what drew me to the tropics was not just the promise of adventures, 26 00:03:10,000 --> 00:03:15,000 but a desire to see with my own eyes a grand and wild nature 27 00:03:16,000 --> 00:03:22,000 and the prospect of collecting facts which might contribute to the progress of science. 28 00:03:23,000 --> 00:03:34,000 Today, Humboldt's name is largely forgotten, and yet across the continents features and places bear testimony to his once great fame. 29 00:03:34,000 --> 00:03:47,000 This story will rediscover the man who at the age of 29 set out for South America on an extraordinary adventure that would change the course of the history of science. 30 00:03:48,000 --> 00:03:53,000 Mr. F. Humboldt, before your departure for the Americas, had you set out your intentions? 31 00:03:53,000 --> 00:03:59,000 Yes, indeed. Let me quote from a letter written on the eve of our departure. 32 00:04:02,000 --> 00:04:09,000 I shall collect plants and animals. I will analyze heat, electricity and the magnetic content of the atmosphere. 33 00:04:09,000 --> 00:04:17,000 I shall measure mountains, but my true purpose is to investigate the interaction of all the forces of nature. 34 00:04:18,000 --> 00:04:23,000 In other words, I must find out about the unity of nature. 35 00:04:24,000 --> 00:04:31,000 He was looking for a way to connect all parts of nature, and nature to Humboldt included human beings. 36 00:04:31,000 --> 00:04:38,000 And that's important to realize, not only human beings as physical beings, but also our minds, our thoughts. 37 00:04:38,000 --> 00:04:45,000 He wrote in his travel diary, everything is interaction, a less ist vixel vio con. 38 00:04:45,000 --> 00:04:56,000 And that might indicate something of his idea of unity, to use all possible scientific methods to use all kinds of instruments, 39 00:04:56,000 --> 00:05:03,000 but to be aware that a comprehensive view goes beyond measurement. 40 00:05:04,000 --> 00:05:08,000 Humboldt set sail across the Atlantic for South America. 41 00:05:08,000 --> 00:05:13,000 With him traveled his companion and colleague, the French botanist, Amy Bonpla. 42 00:05:13,000 --> 00:05:24,000 Together, they had stowed on board the latest scientific equipment, intent on gathering as much information as they could about the natural world. 43 00:05:25,000 --> 00:05:31,000 Humboldt was aware that in order to get an accurate picture of somewhere, you had to go there, you had to travel. 44 00:05:31,000 --> 00:05:39,000 So travel was part of the process of understanding. You couldn't simply understand from a library in Paris or Berlin or London. 45 00:05:39,000 --> 00:05:44,000 And he was very aware of that. 46 00:05:47,000 --> 00:05:54,000 On the 16th of July, 1799, the ship arrived off the Venezuelan coast. 47 00:05:55,000 --> 00:05:59,000 Humboldt was overwhelmed. 48 00:05:59,000 --> 00:06:05,000 The pinnated leaves of the palm stood out against a blue sky. There was no trace of mist. 49 00:06:05,000 --> 00:06:14,000 The sun climbed rapidly towards its center, spreading a dazzling light over a become sea. 50 00:06:14,000 --> 00:06:19,000 The shore was abundant with pelicans, flamingos and herons. 51 00:06:19,000 --> 00:06:28,000 The intense luminosity of the day, the vivid colours, the lush vegetation and the variegated plumage of the birds, 52 00:06:28,000 --> 00:06:33,000 all bore the grand seal of tropical nature. 53 00:06:34,000 --> 00:06:47,000 For Humboldt to go out into the field and see the plants, see the animals in their own place, see the landscape, look at the blue of the sky and the colour of the water and measure things, temperature, barometric pressure. 54 00:06:47,000 --> 00:06:53,000 Nobody had related all of these things together before, but again to Humboldt, they were all part of that unity. 55 00:06:53,000 --> 00:06:58,000 So all information was potentially useful in part of the picture. 56 00:07:05,000 --> 00:07:11,000 In the first three days, we could barely proceed with any true scientific work. 57 00:07:11,000 --> 00:07:16,000 We would pick up an object and within seconds rejected for a more striking one. 58 00:07:17,000 --> 00:07:24,000 Bonplant assured me that he would go stark raving mad if the excitement didn't stop soon. 59 00:07:24,000 --> 00:07:29,000 How bright the plumage of the birds, how colourful the fish. 60 00:07:29,000 --> 00:07:39,000 But more overpowering than any single object was the impression of the whole entire mass of vibrant and luscious vegetation. 61 00:07:41,000 --> 00:07:44,000 I knew I would be most happy in the days to come. 62 00:07:47,000 --> 00:07:50,000 Here was the essence of Humboldt's approach. 63 00:07:51,000 --> 00:08:00,000 Beyond the description of new and isolated facts, Humboldt wanted to understand the processes at work in nature's grand design. 64 00:08:01,000 --> 00:08:08,000 Science up to then in its taxonomy, just listing, hadn't understood that the lists were all linked. 65 00:08:09,000 --> 00:08:18,000 And I think he was an early perceiver that behind all these lists, these many, many facts, just books were full of facts. 66 00:08:18,000 --> 00:08:21,000 There was some sort of harmony between them. 67 00:08:22,000 --> 00:08:29,000 His stated goal at the outset is to see how forces interact in nature. 68 00:08:30,000 --> 00:08:35,000 He's certainly laying the groundwork here for Darwin's theories. 69 00:08:36,000 --> 00:08:41,000 So he was always on the brink of finding larger answers. 70 00:08:47,000 --> 00:08:52,000 The two colleagues took up residence in the lively port of Kumuna and set about their studies. 71 00:08:53,000 --> 00:08:58,000 Atmospheric measurements, specimen collecting, descriptions and illustrations. 72 00:08:59,000 --> 00:09:06,000 Within three months, they had collected some 1,600 plants, describing 600 species new to science. 73 00:09:07,000 --> 00:09:13,000 Humboldt made many drawings of these along with other sketches of snails and shellfish. 74 00:09:23,000 --> 00:09:28,000 One of the excursions Humboldt and Bonpla made was a journey to the Carribe valley. 75 00:09:29,000 --> 00:09:40,000 The aim was to visit a spectacular cave, home to a unique nocturnal bird, the guacharo, much prized by the Indians for its oil. 76 00:09:41,000 --> 00:09:52,000 At the foot of the Torque Guacharo mountain and only 400 steps from the cave, we still could not make out its entrance. 77 00:09:53,000 --> 00:09:56,000 The path follows a small winding stream. 78 00:09:57,000 --> 00:10:03,000 At the last bend, you suddenly come across the enormous grotto opening. 79 00:10:04,000 --> 00:10:09,000 We measured the way in by means of accord and went about 430 feet. 80 00:10:10,000 --> 00:10:19,000 As the light began to fail, we heard the whole screams of the nocturnal birds that according to the Indians, live only in these underground caves. 81 00:10:19,000 --> 00:10:26,000 It is difficult to give an idea of the dreadful noise made by thousands of these birds. 82 00:10:27,000 --> 00:10:31,000 It cannot be compared to the noise of crows. 83 00:10:32,000 --> 00:10:39,000 The guacharo's piercing scream reverberates against the rocky vault and echoes in the depths of the cave. 84 00:10:40,000 --> 00:10:46,000 The Indians are in the sea, the sea of the sea, the sea of the sea, the sea of the sea, the sea of the sea, the sea of the sea. 85 00:10:46,000 --> 00:10:51,000 The Indians showed us their nests by tying torches onto long poles. 86 00:10:53,000 --> 00:10:58,000 The further we penetrated into the cave, the more the frightened birds scream. 87 00:11:01,000 --> 00:11:03,000 It is creepy. 88 00:11:04,000 --> 00:11:09,000 You go into this extraordinary cave, okay, you know what caves are like. 89 00:11:09,000 --> 00:11:17,000 And suddenly you hear this amazing rattling, castanet-like call coming from the depths of the cave. 90 00:11:18,000 --> 00:11:25,000 And you go further in and you go around a corner and that cuts out a lot of light and suddenly you're in pitch blackness. 91 00:11:26,000 --> 00:11:38,000 The guacharo, completely unknown to naturalists, is about the size of our chickens. 92 00:11:39,000 --> 00:11:43,000 They have the gate of vultures and silky stiff hairs surround their curved beaks. 93 00:11:44,000 --> 00:11:47,000 Their breast is loaded with fat, known as guacharo oil. 94 00:11:48,000 --> 00:11:51,000 It is used for preparing food in the monastery at Carapet. 95 00:11:51,000 --> 00:11:57,000 Semi-liquid, clear and odour. It is so pure that it lasts for a year without going rancid. 96 00:12:02,000 --> 00:12:04,000 The guacharo leaves the cave at nightfall. 97 00:12:05,000 --> 00:12:10,000 To date, it is the only seed-eating nocturnal bird that we know. 98 00:12:13,000 --> 00:12:20,000 One of the holistic discoveries that he made in terms of animals or plants was the guacharo bird. 99 00:12:21,000 --> 00:12:25,000 The steartornis, the oil bird as it serves, is how difficult he called. 100 00:12:26,000 --> 00:12:33,000 And it was a very remarkable thing. He didn't fully understand how it was that the birds found their way at the time. 101 00:12:34,000 --> 00:12:37,000 But he nonetheless described it for the very first time. 102 00:12:41,000 --> 00:12:46,000 Musiofon Homboldt, were all your observations in this new land so enriching? 103 00:12:46,000 --> 00:12:51,000 Madam Azel, our house in Kumana was well situated for observing the sky and the stars. 104 00:12:52,000 --> 00:12:55,000 But during the day there were also scenes we witnessed that disgusted us. 105 00:12:56,000 --> 00:13:00,000 A part of the great plasuries where the slaves brought from Africa are sold. 106 00:13:01,000 --> 00:13:05,000 Those put up for sale were young men aged between 15 and 20. 107 00:13:06,000 --> 00:13:11,000 Every morning they were given coconut oil to rub into their bodies to make their skin shiny and black. 108 00:13:12,000 --> 00:13:16,000 Bias would approach and examining their teeth would calculate their age and health, 109 00:13:17,000 --> 00:13:20,000 forcing open their mouths as if dealing with horses at market. 110 00:13:22,000 --> 00:13:25,000 It is distressing to think that still today in the Spanish West Indies, 111 00:13:26,000 --> 00:13:30,000 slaves are branded with hot ions to identify them in case they escape. 112 00:13:33,000 --> 00:13:36,000 This is how one treats those who save other men from the labour of working in the fields. 113 00:13:37,000 --> 00:13:42,000 When I left America I retained the same horror of slavery I had previously felt in Europe. 114 00:13:44,000 --> 00:13:52,000 The one thing that when you read the book that really gets him incandescent with range and pity is slavery. 115 00:13:53,000 --> 00:13:55,000 Slavery in South America. 116 00:13:56,000 --> 00:13:59,000 So he had all the admirable human qualities. 117 00:14:06,000 --> 00:14:11,000 Humboldt and Bonpla spent the winter months of 1799 in the city of Caracas. 118 00:14:13,000 --> 00:14:18,000 As the new century dawned they set out to study the surrounding countryside. 119 00:14:21,000 --> 00:14:24,000 One trip took them to the shores of Lake Valencia. 120 00:14:25,000 --> 00:14:29,000 A vast body of water the locals feared was mysteriously drying up. 121 00:14:30,000 --> 00:14:32,000 They sought Humboldt's advice. 122 00:14:33,000 --> 00:14:37,000 The shores of Lake Valencia are not famed solely for their picturesque views. 123 00:14:40,000 --> 00:14:45,000 The basin presents several issues of great interest for natural historians. 124 00:14:46,000 --> 00:14:49,000 What causes the lowering of the lake's water levels? 125 00:14:50,000 --> 00:14:52,000 Is it receding faster than before? 126 00:14:53,000 --> 00:14:55,000 Will the balance between the flowing in and the draining out be restored? 127 00:14:56,000 --> 00:15:00,000 Or will the fear that the lake might dry up prove justified? 128 00:15:02,000 --> 00:15:13,000 The destruction of forests, the clearing of plains and the cultivation of indigo over a half century, 129 00:15:14,000 --> 00:15:19,000 has affected the amount of water flowing in as well as the evaporation from the soil. 130 00:15:21,000 --> 00:15:23,000 Springs dry up or merely trickle. 131 00:15:24,000 --> 00:15:29,000 Riverbeds remain dry and are then turned into torrents whenever it rains heavily on the hills. 132 00:15:30,000 --> 00:15:37,000 By felling trees that cover the mountains, men everywhere have ensured at the same time two future calamities, 133 00:15:38,000 --> 00:15:40,000 lack of fuel and scarcity of water. 134 00:15:41,000 --> 00:15:47,000 Humboldt was someone who thought about the effects human beings had on nature, 135 00:15:48,000 --> 00:15:53,000 but also the effects every single piece of nature had on other pieces of nature. 136 00:15:54,000 --> 00:15:59,000 So he was someone who thought in terms of what we would call today ecology. 137 00:16:00,000 --> 00:16:04,000 That was Humboldt's concept. He didn't have the word yet that came later. 138 00:16:05,000 --> 00:16:10,000 But the concept was everywhere in his writings, and Darwin picks up on this very quickly. 139 00:16:11,000 --> 00:16:18,000 Darwin develops the ecological view, and this enables him to start thinking in terms of historical change. 140 00:16:19,000 --> 00:16:25,000 And eventually presents to him the problem that he solves by coming to the theory of evolution. 141 00:16:29,000 --> 00:16:35,000 Humboldt's analysis at Lake Valencia predates modern ecology by a staggering 200 years. 142 00:16:36,000 --> 00:16:39,000 His ideas clearly show nature as an interlocking system. 143 00:16:41,000 --> 00:16:45,000 And yet for Humboldt, this scientific understanding was only part of the story. 144 00:16:46,000 --> 00:16:53,000 True comprehension of nature he believed could not be separated from our own aesthetic experience of the world. 145 00:17:01,000 --> 00:17:07,000 With the simplest statement of scientific fact, there must ever mingle a certain eloquence. 146 00:17:08,000 --> 00:17:10,000 Nature herself is sublimely eloquent. 147 00:17:11,000 --> 00:17:16,000 The stars as they sparkle in the firmament fill us with delight and ecstasy. 148 00:17:17,000 --> 00:17:21,000 And yet all move in orbit marked out with mathematical precision. 149 00:17:24,000 --> 00:17:30,000 As a scientist he was obviously recording the material effects of the universe, 150 00:17:31,000 --> 00:17:39,000 but at the same time he never lost sight that it was the human being who was looking at nature. 151 00:17:40,000 --> 00:17:49,000 Who was perceiving nature so that there was a subjective side, a poetic side that we have inside the world of sensations. 152 00:17:53,000 --> 00:17:58,000 Who is there among us that does not feel moved beneath the embouring shade of a beach 153 00:17:59,000 --> 00:18:03,000 or in the flowering meadow where the breeze murmurs through the trembling foliage? 154 00:18:04,000 --> 00:18:07,000 This influence of the physical on the moral world, 155 00:18:07,000 --> 00:18:11,000 this mysterious reaction of the sensuous on the ideal, 156 00:18:12,000 --> 00:18:18,000 gives to the study of nature a peculiar charm which has not here the tube been sufficiently recognized. 157 00:18:19,000 --> 00:18:29,000 What moves him in nature is that first moment of beauty, of awe, of sympathy, feeling for nature. 158 00:18:30,000 --> 00:18:32,000 And this is for Humboldt, where it all begins. 159 00:18:32,000 --> 00:18:39,000 You can't just approach nature intellectually, you have to have an emotional connection, an emotional bond. 160 00:18:40,000 --> 00:18:43,000 And this is what moves you to want to know more. 161 00:18:46,000 --> 00:18:54,000 In February 1800 the travellers left the Caribbean coast, crossing the plains of the Yannos, bound for the Oranoco River. 162 00:18:54,000 --> 00:19:05,000 Ahead lay the wild jungles of the interior, in which Humboldt hoped to verify the existence of the legendary Kazakieri Canal, 163 00:19:06,000 --> 00:19:12,000 whose waters mysteriously flow from the Oranoco to the Amazon, crossing the watershed. 164 00:19:25,000 --> 00:19:34,000 Dressed in Parisian attire, with their Indian guides in a canoe stuffed with scientific instruments, notebooks and collecting boxes, 165 00:19:35,000 --> 00:19:37,000 they must have been a surreal vision. 166 00:19:43,000 --> 00:19:49,000 Soon the strange little party swallowed into the vast wilderness of the Oranoco rainforest. 167 00:19:50,000 --> 00:19:58,000 Finding no suitable tree on the riverbank, we stuck our oars in the ground and fastened our hammocks to them. 168 00:19:59,000 --> 00:20:04,000 Soon such a racket began in the forest that it was impossible to sleep for the rest of the night. 169 00:20:11,000 --> 00:20:14,000 A wild screaming of creatures terrorized the woods. 170 00:20:15,000 --> 00:20:22,000 The Indians were able to distinguish the monotonous whaling of howler monkeys, the cries of the peccary and the slope, 171 00:20:23,000 --> 00:20:28,000 the shrill scream of parrots and other birds, and the staccato howling of the Jaguar. 172 00:20:31,000 --> 00:20:33,000 For many months we listened to the same noises. 173 00:20:45,000 --> 00:20:53,000 After three weeks the party reached the treacherous Ature's Mapure's Rapids. 174 00:20:58,000 --> 00:21:03,000 This torrid 60km stretch of water divides the upper and lower reaches of the Oranoco. 175 00:21:15,000 --> 00:21:22,000 As the Oranoco runs from south to north, it crosses a chain of granite mountains. 176 00:21:23,000 --> 00:21:29,000 Twice checked in its course, the river breaks furiously against rocks that form steps and channels. 177 00:21:30,000 --> 00:21:32,000 Nothing can be grander than this site. 178 00:21:33,000 --> 00:21:41,000 It is as if the river, lit by the setting sun, hangs above its bed like an immense sheet of foam and vapours. 179 00:21:44,000 --> 00:21:47,000 Beyond an unknown land begins. 180 00:21:50,000 --> 00:21:54,000 He must have had the most fantastic... 181 00:21:56,000 --> 00:21:59,000 Not courage exactly, but he did, had plenty of that too. 182 00:22:00,000 --> 00:22:05,000 But just a brute ability to cope with the appalling routine and not complain. 183 00:22:06,000 --> 00:22:11,000 The only sign of complaint is this massive discussion for all the various insects. 184 00:22:15,000 --> 00:22:20,000 The mosquitoes which tormented us during the day became a swarm toward evening. 185 00:22:21,000 --> 00:22:24,000 Our hands and faces had never been so swollen. 186 00:22:26,000 --> 00:22:30,000 It is neither the danger of navigating in small boats, the threat of hostile Indians, 187 00:22:31,000 --> 00:22:36,000 nor the serpents, crocodiles or jaguars that make Spaniards dread a voyage on the Oranoco. 188 00:22:37,000 --> 00:22:41,000 It is they say with simplicity, El Sudaí, El Las Moscas, 189 00:22:41,000 --> 00:22:44,000 the sweat and the mosquitoes. 190 00:22:45,000 --> 00:22:48,000 You are attacked by different species as the day goes on. 191 00:22:49,000 --> 00:22:52,000 You may get a five-minute break and then the zenku does come. 192 00:22:53,000 --> 00:22:58,000 They have little white bits on their very long legs and massive snooter. 193 00:22:59,000 --> 00:23:02,000 They are really painful. 194 00:23:02,000 --> 00:23:11,000 Upriver, the little expedition parted from the main channel of the Oranoco, 195 00:23:12,000 --> 00:23:14,000 taking a tributary to its headwaters. 196 00:23:16,000 --> 00:23:20,000 Here the Indians hold the canoe over land for three days crossing the watershed 197 00:23:21,000 --> 00:23:23,000 to reach the waters of the Rio Negro. 198 00:23:24,000 --> 00:23:26,000 Now they were in the Amazon River system. 199 00:23:27,000 --> 00:23:29,000 The task ahead was to unravel the mystery. 200 00:23:31,000 --> 00:23:35,000 Could they return to the Oranoco by paddling back up the Kazukiari canal? 201 00:23:40,000 --> 00:23:44,000 They were now entering one of the most remote jungles on earth. 202 00:23:47,000 --> 00:23:52,000 The river was now in the river, the river was in the river. 203 00:23:54,000 --> 00:24:02,000 In that interior part of a new continent, one almost accustomed oneself to regard men 204 00:24:03,000 --> 00:24:06,000 as not being essential to the order of nature. 205 00:24:12,000 --> 00:24:17,000 The earth is overloaded with vegetation and nothing impedes its growth. 206 00:24:18,000 --> 00:24:20,000 Crocodiles and boas are masters of the river. 207 00:24:21,000 --> 00:24:25,000 The Jaguar and the Peccary roam the forest without fear. 208 00:24:28,000 --> 00:24:37,000 This ancient inheritance of wild and animated nature, in which man is nothing, 209 00:24:38,000 --> 00:24:40,000 has something to it that is strange and sad. 210 00:24:41,000 --> 00:24:43,000 To this we reconcile ourselves with difficulty. 211 00:24:44,000 --> 00:24:47,000 We seek in vain the traces of the power of man. 212 00:24:49,000 --> 00:24:55,000 We seem to have been transported into a world so different from that in which we were born. 213 00:24:57,000 --> 00:25:01,000 There are deep moments when you feel a little more like a man. 214 00:25:01,000 --> 00:25:04,000 It's a bit like looking up at the infinite sky and feeling. 215 00:25:05,000 --> 00:25:09,000 It's a little bit different from that in which we were born. 216 00:25:12,000 --> 00:25:19,000 There are deep moments when you feel utterly miniscule and isolated, 217 00:25:20,000 --> 00:25:23,000 and alone even if you're with your Indian friends. 218 00:25:25,000 --> 00:25:28,000 Vastated, I think, is probably Humboldt's word. 219 00:25:28,000 --> 00:25:33,000 There are deep moments when you feel the infinite sky and feeling tiny looking at the stars. 220 00:25:34,000 --> 00:25:37,000 But in a way it's much more personal and intimate. 221 00:25:38,000 --> 00:25:45,000 Everything is going on around 200 foot high trees, Leona's extraordinary richness. 222 00:25:46,000 --> 00:25:49,000 But utterly nothing would ever to do with you, nothing cares. 223 00:25:49,000 --> 00:25:52,000 The severe conditions took their toll. 224 00:25:54,000 --> 00:26:07,000 Provisions were all but exhausted and they were reduced to eating insects, roots and a few bananas washed down with river water. 225 00:26:08,000 --> 00:26:13,000 Somehow they maintained their spirits, and after weeks in the wilderness, 226 00:26:13,000 --> 00:26:18,000 their canoe emerged once more into the vast waters of the Oranoko. 227 00:26:19,000 --> 00:26:28,000 Their extraordinary adventure had proved to the doubters in Europe the existence of anavicable Amazon Oranoko waterway. 228 00:26:31,000 --> 00:26:35,000 22 days downriver, their canoe arrived at the town of Anastura. 229 00:26:36,000 --> 00:26:38,000 Bonpla was sick with typhoid fever. 230 00:26:38,000 --> 00:26:43,000 But after rest, recovered and returned with Humboldt to Kumuna. 231 00:26:44,000 --> 00:26:50,000 It was August 1800, and the first major part of their expedition was over. 232 00:26:58,000 --> 00:27:05,000 Humboldt and Bonpla spent the autumn on the island of Cuba, describing, classifying and dispatching specimens in manuscripts back to Europe. 233 00:27:09,000 --> 00:27:14,000 By the following spring 1801, they were ready to return to the mainland of South America. 234 00:27:16,000 --> 00:27:19,000 They set their sights on Colombia and the High Andes. 235 00:27:20,000 --> 00:27:23,000 Their next great adventure had begun. 236 00:27:30,000 --> 00:27:35,000 The local horses and mules are so sure-footed that they inspire confidence. 237 00:27:36,000 --> 00:27:41,000 The while they're a country, the more acute is the instinct in domestic animals. 238 00:27:43,000 --> 00:27:52,000 Whether mules glimst danger, they stop, but always choose the right course as long as you don't distract them or force them to continue. 239 00:27:54,000 --> 00:28:02,000 In the Andes, you often hear people say, I will not give you a mule with a comfortable gate, but one that reasons best. 240 00:28:05,000 --> 00:28:11,000 Humboldt's party now travelled to Quito, Ecuador via an arduous route along the High Andes. 241 00:28:15,000 --> 00:28:20,000 It would take many months, but it was an opportunity not to be missed. 242 00:28:21,000 --> 00:28:29,000 Now he and Bonpla could collect and compare the plants growing in the highlands, but above all, Humboldt could indulge his own passion. 243 00:28:30,000 --> 00:28:32,000 Study in volcanoes. 244 00:28:35,000 --> 00:28:57,000 It seems probable that the whole of the more elevated part of the province is but one huge volcano, of which the peaks of Cotapaxi and Pachintia rise as giant summits, whose craters are only vents for the subterranean lava. 245 00:29:06,000 --> 00:29:15,000 In January 1802, Humboldt and Bonpla reached the Ecuadorian capital Quito, a city sighted at the foot of the imposing Pachintia volcano. 246 00:29:19,000 --> 00:29:25,000 Ecuador had suffered in the terrible earthquake of 1797, which claimed some 14,000 lives. 247 00:29:27,000 --> 00:29:34,000 Two years earlier, in Kumuna, Humboldt and Bonpla had experienced an earthquake, and now again in Quito they felt the tremors of the group. 248 00:29:36,000 --> 00:29:41,000 When the earth, we think of it as so stable, shakes on its foundations. 249 00:29:42,000 --> 00:29:45,000 One second is long enough to destroy long-held illusions. 250 00:29:46,000 --> 00:29:48,000 It is like waking painfully from a dream. 251 00:29:49,000 --> 00:29:52,000 We think we have been tricked by nature's seeming stability. 252 00:29:53,000 --> 00:29:54,000 We listen out for the smallest noise. 253 00:29:55,000 --> 00:29:58,000 For the first time we distrust the very ground we walk on. 254 00:29:59,000 --> 00:30:05,000 But if these shocks are repeated, frequently over successive days, the fear quickly disappears. 255 00:30:06,000 --> 00:30:15,000 In Quito, we never considered getting out of bed when at night there were underground rumblings which seemed to announce a shock from the Pachintia volcano. 256 00:30:18,000 --> 00:30:25,000 Despite living in the shadow of fear, Humboldt noted that the people of Quito were lively and amiable, 257 00:30:26,000 --> 00:30:30,000 and the city carried an air of well-being and easy living. 258 00:30:31,000 --> 00:30:37,000 Humboldt and Bonpla were welcomed by the noble family of the Marquez de Silva Allegre. 259 00:30:38,000 --> 00:30:40,000 His name was Juan Pio Montufar. 260 00:30:49,000 --> 00:30:54,000 After the hardships of their adventures, the two travelers now found themselves in the lap of luxury. 261 00:30:56,000 --> 00:31:01,000 There were dinner parties at fine townhouses and visits to the country Haciendas. 262 00:31:05,000 --> 00:31:09,000 Everyone who was anyone wished to meet the celebrated European travelers. 263 00:31:14,000 --> 00:31:21,000 Humboldt was the most important event in the early part of the 1800s that happened in Ecuador. 264 00:31:22,000 --> 00:31:30,000 And so you can imagine how welcome Humboldt was at that time and how people wanted to share experiences with him and be with him. 265 00:31:33,000 --> 00:31:39,000 But the headies social life did nothing to quench Humboldt's curiosity about the volcanoes that surrounded the city. 266 00:31:40,000 --> 00:31:45,000 He set out to climb Pachintia. His first attempt ended in failure. 267 00:31:46,000 --> 00:31:54,000 No one at the time climbed mountains, and Humboldt suffered altitude sickness becoming giddy and blacking out. 268 00:31:59,000 --> 00:32:05,000 On deterred with an Indian guide, he reached the crater's rim at 15,000 feet on the second attempt. 269 00:32:07,000 --> 00:32:11,000 Before them, loomed the huge steaming crater. 270 00:32:12,000 --> 00:32:20,000 Blueish flames flickered in the depths. A sure sign that Pachintia was far from extinct. 271 00:32:22,000 --> 00:32:27,000 Humboldt's adventures captivated the Marques' son, the dashing Carlos Montufar. 272 00:32:28,000 --> 00:32:32,000 He accompanied Humboldt and Bonpla and quickly became an accepted companion. 273 00:32:33,000 --> 00:32:37,000 Montufar would now join the travelers for the rest of the expedition. 274 00:32:38,000 --> 00:32:45,000 And in turn, it seems Montufar introduced Humboldt to the alternative delights on offer in Quito. 275 00:32:46,000 --> 00:32:49,000 I am the great, great grand nephew of Carlos Montufar. 276 00:32:50,000 --> 00:32:58,000 Carlos, a younger man and his colleagues here locally and from the scientific community, apparently took him out to town. 277 00:32:59,000 --> 00:33:06,000 The young girls were eager to meet him and I understand that Humboldt had a very good time in Quito. 278 00:33:08,000 --> 00:33:14,000 Here it is said that Montufar introduced Humboldt to the seductive charms of Signora Antonia. 279 00:33:15,000 --> 00:33:17,000 It is still rumored that she bore him a child. 280 00:33:19,000 --> 00:33:27,000 Unless you're on Humboldt, can you confirm certain reports that not all of your adventures in Quito were of a scientific nature? 281 00:33:28,000 --> 00:33:30,000 What salacious gossip did you hear? 282 00:33:31,000 --> 00:33:32,000 Never mind. 283 00:33:33,000 --> 00:33:35,000 What I will say is this. 284 00:33:37,000 --> 00:33:40,000 The town of Quito breathes an atmosphere of luxury and gaiety. 285 00:33:41,000 --> 00:33:46,000 And nowhere is there a population so entirely given over to the pursuit of pleasure. 286 00:33:50,000 --> 00:33:51,000 But think on this. 287 00:33:52,000 --> 00:33:58,000 Thus perhaps can manna custom himself to sleep in peace on the brink of catastrophe. 288 00:33:59,000 --> 00:34:10,000 In June 1802, Humboldt, Bonpla and Montufar left Quito for the volcanic peaks to the south. 289 00:34:11,000 --> 00:34:15,000 The route took them along the spectacular avenue of volcanoes. 290 00:34:16,000 --> 00:34:25,000 But the main object of their attention was the celebrated volcano, Chimborazo, then believed to be the highest mountain in the world. 291 00:34:29,000 --> 00:34:37,000 Fortunately, the attempt to reach the summit of Chimborazo had been reserved for our last enterprise among the mountains of South America. 292 00:34:38,000 --> 00:34:43,000 For we had by then gained some experience and knew how far we could rely on our own strength. 293 00:34:51,000 --> 00:34:54,000 In many places the ridge was no wider than eight to ten inches. 294 00:34:55,000 --> 00:35:01,000 To our left was a precipice of snow whose frozen crust glistened like glass. 295 00:35:02,000 --> 00:35:04,000 On the right lay a fearful abyss. 296 00:35:11,000 --> 00:35:17,000 With extreme exertion and considerable patience, we reached a greater height than we had dared to expect. 297 00:35:18,000 --> 00:35:21,000 For we were constantly climbing through the clouds. 298 00:35:22,000 --> 00:35:27,000 At certain places where it was very steep, we had to crawl on our hands and knees. 299 00:35:28,000 --> 00:35:33,000 The edges of the rock were so sharp that our hands were painfully cut. 300 00:35:34,000 --> 00:35:38,000 One after another we began to vomit from nausea and giddens. 301 00:35:40,000 --> 00:35:43,000 He suffered from terrible altitude sickness. 302 00:35:44,000 --> 00:35:47,000 I mean his nose was beating you, his stick you could hardly walk. 303 00:35:48,000 --> 00:35:55,000 And if you go up that height for the first time effectively, I mean this was nobody else on that high. 304 00:35:57,000 --> 00:36:01,000 You must worry about whether you're going to die. 305 00:36:03,000 --> 00:36:05,000 Suddenly the mist began to dissipate. 306 00:36:06,000 --> 00:36:12,000 Once more we recognized the dome-shaped summit of Chimborazo, now very close. 307 00:36:13,000 --> 00:36:15,000 What a grand and solemn spectacle. 308 00:36:18,000 --> 00:36:24,000 We hurried on, but all of a sudden our progress was halted by a ravine, some 400 feet deep. 309 00:36:26,000 --> 00:36:28,000 Unfortunately this barrier proved insurmountable. 310 00:36:29,000 --> 00:36:33,000 The softness of the snow preventing all attempts to scale the walls. 311 00:36:35,000 --> 00:36:37,000 It was now an hour afternoon. 312 00:36:40,000 --> 00:36:42,000 We set up the barometer with great care. 313 00:36:43,000 --> 00:36:45,000 Air temperature was three below freezing. 314 00:36:46,000 --> 00:36:55,000 According to the formula given to us by Laplace, we had now reached a height of 19,286 feet. 315 00:36:56,000 --> 00:36:58,000 We were about a short way from the summit. 316 00:36:59,000 --> 00:37:02,000 No more than three times the height of St. Peter's Cathedral in Rome. 317 00:37:05,000 --> 00:37:10,000 It was a world record for human beings going that high that stood for 30 years or so. 318 00:37:11,000 --> 00:37:15,000 And of course he did it with just straightforward gear. 319 00:37:16,000 --> 00:37:22,000 I mean one is reminded a bit of the British party climbing Everest in 1924 and so on. 320 00:37:23,000 --> 00:37:26,000 They did it. All he needed is a good Norfolk jacket and a couple of stout shoes. 321 00:37:27,000 --> 00:37:29,000 That was more or less what he did. 322 00:37:32,000 --> 00:37:34,000 Yet for all their adventures climbing volcanoes, 323 00:37:35,000 --> 00:37:38,000 Humboldt never lost sight of his foremost scientific goal. 324 00:37:39,000 --> 00:37:44,000 To try to reveal the laws of nature that he believed brought order to the natural world. 325 00:37:51,000 --> 00:37:55,000 The adventures in the rainforest jungles had revealed an overwhelmingly complex wilderness. 326 00:37:56,000 --> 00:38:03,000 Now by contrast on the mountain slopes Humboldt saw what nobody had understood before him. 327 00:38:04,000 --> 00:38:11,000 The Andes displayed a clear vertical progression of vegetation and climate. 328 00:38:12,000 --> 00:38:19,000 Of course like so many great thoughts they are amazingly obvious as soon as they are stated. 329 00:38:19,000 --> 00:38:23,000 But before they are stated the world seems blind to them. 330 00:38:23,000 --> 00:38:30,000 What he did was to demonstrate that if you climbed up a very high mountain in The Andes for example, 331 00:38:31,000 --> 00:38:35,000 the plants changed their character as you went higher and it got colder. 332 00:38:36,000 --> 00:38:44,000 And that this was paralleled by the fact that the plants also changed character as you moved from the equator northwards and it got colder. 333 00:38:44,000 --> 00:38:49,000 So he set down the basic principles of plant geography. 334 00:38:51,000 --> 00:38:58,000 Humboldt began to compose his seminal essay on the geography of plants. 335 00:38:59,000 --> 00:39:05,000 To accompany this he sketched a tableau depicting the cross sectional profile of The Andes at Chimborazo. 336 00:39:06,000 --> 00:39:11,000 The elaborate engraving beautifully illustrates the changing zones of vegetation. 337 00:39:11,000 --> 00:39:16,000 Nobody had linked geography place with species in the way that Humboldt did. 338 00:39:17,000 --> 00:39:21,000 There's wonderful maps of the mountain with the different zones of vegetation stretching up it. 339 00:39:22,000 --> 00:39:23,000 That's the start of ecology. 340 00:39:25,000 --> 00:39:31,000 It's bespattered with scientific names of plants showing exactly where they fit into the profile. 341 00:39:32,000 --> 00:39:34,000 And that was a completely new idea. 342 00:39:34,000 --> 00:39:40,000 In the autumn of 1802 Humboldt's expedition reached the Pacific coast and set sail for Mexico. 343 00:39:42,000 --> 00:39:47,000 Here Humboldt spent the next year studying the rich cultural archives. 344 00:39:50,000 --> 00:39:55,000 Then in the spring of 1804 the three companions sailed not for home but the United States, 345 00:39:56,000 --> 00:39:58,000 reaching Philadelphia on the 20th of May. 346 00:39:59,000 --> 00:40:02,000 Humboldt wrote to President Thomas Jefferson. 347 00:40:04,000 --> 00:40:13,000 Mr. President arrived from Mexico on the blessed ground of this republic whose executive powers were placed in your hands. 348 00:40:14,000 --> 00:40:20,000 I feel it is my pleasant duty to be a part of the world's most important part of the world. 349 00:40:20,000 --> 00:40:31,000 I feel it is my pleasant duty to present my respects and express my high admiration for your writings, your actions and the liberalism of your ideas, 350 00:40:32,000 --> 00:40:35,000 which have inspired me from my earliest youth. 351 00:40:36,000 --> 00:40:42,000 I flatter myself in the expectation of expressing my sentiments personally to you. 352 00:40:43,000 --> 00:40:49,000 Coming to North America and seeing the United States was tremendously important to him. 353 00:40:50,000 --> 00:40:52,000 I mean he should have gone directly back to Europe. 354 00:40:53,000 --> 00:40:55,000 He had so much at stake all his collections five years of research. 355 00:40:56,000 --> 00:41:03,000 And yet he essentially detoured because he wanted to see the first free republic in the Americas. 356 00:41:04,000 --> 00:41:17,000 Humboldt's faith in the accomplishments of American independence endeared him to Jefferson, who in turn considered Humboldt the most scientific man of the age. 357 00:41:18,000 --> 00:41:27,000 Jefferson first invited him to Washington, where the two men got on so well that he then asked Humboldt to visit his Virginia home, Monticello. 358 00:41:28,000 --> 00:41:37,000 Jefferson, who was an on-pretentious family man then 61 years of age, delighted in the company of the effervescent Humboldt. 359 00:41:38,000 --> 00:41:44,000 They shared the same political convictions, and of course, the same interest in natural science. 360 00:41:45,000 --> 00:41:50,000 We wonder what they talked about. Humboldt probably went easy on slavery. 361 00:41:51,000 --> 00:41:57,000 That's understandable, but they definitely discussed the relationship between the continents, the New World and the Old World. 362 00:41:58,000 --> 00:42:01,000 That we glean from Jefferson's letters later to Humboldt. 363 00:42:02,000 --> 00:42:05,000 I think above all they discussed plants, Humboldt's great love. 364 00:42:07,000 --> 00:42:13,000 So it must have been marvelous to be at the dinner table with the two of the people. We can guess that's the best we can do. 365 00:42:14,000 --> 00:42:25,000 Jefferson, who had great ambitions for the opening up of the United States interior, saw in Humboldt's approach a model for the scientific exploration of a continent. 366 00:42:27,000 --> 00:42:31,000 That was the time when the American frontier was expanding westward. 367 00:42:32,000 --> 00:42:42,000 Jefferson had just sent out the Lewis and Clark expedition, so the federal government was actively supporting geographical exploration, and Humboldt provided a model for the world's most important part of the world. 368 00:42:43,000 --> 00:42:50,000 And it was very important to be able to understand the future of the world's most important part of the world. 369 00:42:51,000 --> 00:42:57,000 He was a very powerful leader in the United States, and he was a very powerful leader. 370 00:42:58,000 --> 00:43:06,000 He had now witnessed the workings of the first free nation in the Americas, whose ideals he shared. 371 00:43:06,000 --> 00:43:21,000 In early July 1804, Humboldt, Bonplant, and Montefar sailed for France, citing land in a record crossing of 27 days. 372 00:43:22,000 --> 00:43:28,000 After five years, what had been the most ambitious scientific expedition of all time was over. 373 00:43:29,000 --> 00:43:37,000 They had survived extraordinary dangers, and now arrived back in Paris to a rapturous welcome. 374 00:43:38,000 --> 00:43:43,000 It was said that Humboldt was even more famous than Napoleon. 375 00:43:44,000 --> 00:43:57,000 Humboldt was honored because everybody knew that although he had come from an elite and wealthy family, he had invested his entire personal fortune in the pursuit of knowledge, and not just the pursuit of knowledge for his own reputation, but to spread it to everyone. 376 00:43:58,000 --> 00:44:08,000 He was the one who would listen so that he lectured to huge audiences and wrote popular books to extend the audience of science to everyone. 377 00:44:09,000 --> 00:44:19,000 He became extremely famous. He was the right man for the right place, the right time, and so it's probably why Napoleon was jealous of him. 378 00:44:19,000 --> 00:44:40,000 For Humboldt it was a new beginning. Over the next quarter of a century he produced 30 immense volumes, works that founded modern geography, ecology, and plant geography, and contributed to astronomy, botany, geology, meteorology, oceanography, and zoology. 379 00:44:41,000 --> 00:44:47,000 Works that for much of the 19th century were the lens through which Europe saw South America. 380 00:44:48,000 --> 00:44:58,000 Humboldt became a figure of science, something the way Einstein would be to the 20th century. Humboldt was very much that to the 19th century. 381 00:44:59,000 --> 00:45:10,000 He was the icon of science who had brought everything together, showed that science could be grasped. All of science and scientific knowledge could be grasped by one human being. 382 00:45:10,000 --> 00:45:20,000 There was no man of his age who was more sensitive to observe something unknown to him, to measure something he didn't know in advance. 383 00:45:21,000 --> 00:45:31,000 So he had a deep respect for everything unknown foreign to him, a deep respect for nature and for a human society. 384 00:45:37,000 --> 00:45:39,000 Ladies and gentlemen, thank you. 385 00:45:40,000 --> 00:45:42,000 Thank you. 386 00:45:46,000 --> 00:45:55,000 Humboldt believed that he stood on the threshold of the age of science, and yet he foresaw the temptation of science to fragment in special arms. 387 00:45:56,000 --> 00:46:02,000 Just as he sought harmony in nature, he believed in a unity of approach for the natural sciences. 388 00:46:03,000 --> 00:46:06,000 But it did not happen. 389 00:46:07,000 --> 00:46:19,000 The fragmentation of science that he tried to resist and the loss of aesthetics from science that he found incomprehensible succeeded in obliterating his name before the century was out. 390 00:46:20,000 --> 00:46:31,000 A new star would rise. Charles Darwin's ideas in which nature became a battleground of struggle and competition would eclipse Humboldt's noble kingdom. 391 00:46:32,000 --> 00:46:43,000 What he did do was create a framework for understanding science and really for generating modern science as we know it today. 392 00:46:44,000 --> 00:46:52,000 The problem with creating the framework is that you look through the frame at what's at the other side. You never stop and look at the frame. 393 00:46:53,000 --> 00:47:06,000 Humboldt was eclipsed by Darwin. It's as simple as that. Darwin's origin of species was so sensational that Humboldt was forgotten. 394 00:47:09,000 --> 00:47:16,000 Darwin was deeply indebted to Humboldt. Would Darwin have gone South America without Humboldt's inspiration doubtful? 395 00:47:17,000 --> 00:47:26,000 South America was not an obvious place to go. Darwin explicitly says that he wanted to go to South America after having rent Humboldt. 396 00:47:28,000 --> 00:47:38,000 Humboldt writes about the distribution of animals and plants. And that is a very closely connected with the origin of species. 397 00:47:39,000 --> 00:47:50,000 And that was the great puzzle. So that Darwin owed a lot to Humboldt and Martin Gray. He in fact called him the greatest naturalist in the world. 398 00:47:53,000 --> 00:48:07,000 Whatever marks the character of a landscape, the profile of mountains, the deep gloom of pine forests, the mountain torrent rushing headlong over cliffs, all stand alike in an ancient and natural world. 399 00:48:08,000 --> 00:48:19,000 And the mysterious communion with the spiritual life of man. From this arises the nobler portion of the enjoyment which nature affords. 400 00:48:20,000 --> 00:48:26,000 And nowhere does she more deeply impress us with a sense of her greatness. 401 00:48:27,000 --> 00:48:33,000 Nowhere does she speak to us more forcibly than in the tropical world. 47169

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