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These are the user uploaded subtitles that are being translated: 1 00:01:03,564 --> 00:01:07,485 Without a doubt, Tokyo is one of the most intriguing cities in the world. 2 00:01:08,027 --> 00:01:11,614 It's attractive because it's so different. 3 00:02:00,538 --> 00:02:07,419 A beautiful way of seeing the value of things. 4 00:02:13,342 --> 00:02:14,510 The poetry. 5 00:02:17,054 --> 00:02:18,305 The sensitivity. 6 00:03:19,158 --> 00:03:23,037 My name comes from characters which represent "a Japanese feudal warlord." 7 00:03:25,581 --> 00:03:31,337 They led the samurai using their minds rather than muscle. 8 00:03:34,173 --> 00:03:37,968 My parents hoped I would become that kind of man. 9 00:03:50,981 --> 00:03:53,609 Ginza Shinohara 10 00:04:10,459 --> 00:04:12,086 Having a good time. 11 00:04:12,211 --> 00:04:17,633 I want my guests to leave having experienced 12 00:04:17,758 --> 00:04:19,677 a comfortable level of service. 13 00:05:01,093 --> 00:05:06,807 It cools you in the heat of summer and warms you in the cold of winter. 14 00:05:06,932 --> 00:05:10,686 Therein lies the magic of kaiseki cuisine. 15 00:05:11,770 --> 00:05:17,735 It's not just about food or drink. It's about the feeling. 16 00:05:18,110 --> 00:05:24,116 I feel different when I'm at a Japanese restaurant. 17 00:06:19,004 --> 00:06:21,840 Traditional kaiseki cuisine 18 00:06:21,965 --> 00:06:25,094 starts with a saki-zuke starter followed by a soup course. 19 00:06:25,219 --> 00:06:28,472 Next is sashimi followed by a steamed dish, a seasonal platter Hassun, 20 00:06:28,597 --> 00:06:31,725 followed by a grilled dish, a simmered dish, a rice dish, 21 00:06:31,850 --> 00:06:33,477 a dessert and green tea. 22 00:06:33,852 --> 00:06:37,856 It was originally created to accompany a tea ceremony 23 00:06:37,981 --> 00:06:42,736 but the cuisine remains virtually unchanged to this day. 24 00:06:45,072 --> 00:06:49,201 Saki-zuke is the dish served first. 25 00:06:49,326 --> 00:06:51,995 It's a very traditional cuisine, 26 00:06:52,121 --> 00:06:57,584 so the visual impact is important to elicit an emotional response. 27 00:07:20,399 --> 00:07:25,696 The presentation of the pickles is a critical element in Japanese cuisine. 28 00:07:25,821 --> 00:07:31,910 3 kinds are presented, taking into account color, form and plating. 29 00:07:32,035 --> 00:07:37,958 If you can't do this beautifully, you can forget about the Hassun. 30 00:07:38,083 --> 00:07:40,586 I can't hear you, Ren. 31 00:07:40,711 --> 00:07:42,129 I'm sorry. 32 00:07:42,713 --> 00:07:46,925 If you don't respond clearly, how will the customer hear you? 33 00:07:47,050 --> 00:07:49,219 - Check this out. Kitagawa? - Yes. 34 00:07:49,344 --> 00:07:50,429 Hear that? 35 00:07:50,554 --> 00:07:51,513 Yes. 36 00:07:52,139 --> 00:07:54,224 Very good. You're not chunky for nothing. 37 00:07:54,349 --> 00:07:56,059 I'm not chunky. 38 00:07:56,185 --> 00:07:57,769 Yes, you are. 39 00:07:57,895 --> 00:08:00,731 I call him "oyassan" which means "dad." 40 00:08:00,856 --> 00:08:05,944 I spend more time with him than my own family. 41 00:08:06,069 --> 00:08:07,279 Could you taste this? 42 00:08:11,658 --> 00:08:13,744 - It could be a touch sweeter. - Yes, sir. 43 00:08:14,494 --> 00:08:16,538 I think of them as my "kids" too. 44 00:08:16,663 --> 00:08:19,166 I want them to become independent. 45 00:08:19,291 --> 00:08:21,126 He's like a father to me. 46 00:08:21,585 --> 00:08:24,213 If you're not going to use it, put it away. 47 00:08:24,338 --> 00:08:27,799 You couldn't use this space before. Now you can. 48 00:08:27,925 --> 00:08:31,428 That's why you're slow. You know why it takes you so long? 49 00:08:31,553 --> 00:08:34,681 If you don't clean up, there's no space to work. 50 00:08:34,806 --> 00:08:35,682 Yes. 51 00:08:36,350 --> 00:08:39,645 You can learn to cook at a cooking school. 52 00:08:39,770 --> 00:08:44,942 But if you're going to serve customers, you need to cook in a real kitchen. 53 00:08:45,400 --> 00:08:48,070 Never stop thinking. 54 00:08:48,195 --> 00:08:51,740 How can I work quicker? How can I be more efficient? 55 00:08:52,032 --> 00:08:54,326 How can I please my customer? 56 00:08:54,826 --> 00:08:56,328 That's what training's for. 57 00:09:20,936 --> 00:09:25,148 It all comes down to the dashi. 58 00:09:25,274 --> 00:09:29,194 If you don't get that right, everything else will be off. 59 00:09:29,319 --> 00:09:32,406 It's the basics. The foundation. 60 00:09:33,782 --> 00:09:36,785 There's a concept called "the beauty of empty space." 61 00:09:36,910 --> 00:09:40,205 Parts of Japanese paintings are left intentionally blank. 62 00:09:40,330 --> 00:09:43,625 And you find beauty in those empty spaces. 63 00:09:43,834 --> 00:09:46,712 Japanese cuisine and kaiseki cuisine 64 00:09:46,837 --> 00:09:51,174 are also about the pursuit of beauty in those empty spaces. 65 00:10:16,575 --> 00:10:18,076 This is so good. 66 00:11:03,789 --> 00:11:06,792 Long time no see! 67 00:11:07,292 --> 00:11:08,752 - How are you? - Good. 68 00:11:09,336 --> 00:11:11,004 - Is this it? - Right here. 69 00:11:11,129 --> 00:11:12,798 Our house was here. 70 00:11:13,048 --> 00:11:15,634 It's a parking lot now. 71 00:11:19,888 --> 00:11:23,392 I was born and raised in a town surrounded by mountains 72 00:11:23,809 --> 00:11:27,896 where many spots were bursting with cherry blossoms. 73 00:11:28,021 --> 00:11:31,316 A brook running nearby. 74 00:11:31,691 --> 00:11:36,613 I remember little fish swimming there in the springtime. 75 00:11:37,906 --> 00:11:39,199 And lots of fireflies. 76 00:11:39,324 --> 00:11:41,243 It sure was pretty. 77 00:11:41,368 --> 00:11:42,744 Big turtles, too. 78 00:11:43,286 --> 00:11:46,373 Nature was our playground. It's all we had. 79 00:11:51,169 --> 00:11:56,800 I envision those memories and scenic places in my mind 80 00:11:57,175 --> 00:12:00,971 then reflect them in my dishes. 81 00:12:01,638 --> 00:12:04,224 That's what I think about while I'm cooking. 82 00:12:27,914 --> 00:12:32,002 We always competed against each other in the Kyoto finals. 83 00:12:32,127 --> 00:12:33,044 We did. 84 00:12:33,170 --> 00:12:35,881 Every time we met, you got stronger. 85 00:12:36,006 --> 00:12:37,382 No, come on. 86 00:12:37,507 --> 00:12:41,470 I received scholarship offers from many universities including 87 00:12:41,595 --> 00:12:46,808 Kyoto Sangyo University, who had the strongest karate team at the time. 88 00:12:46,933 --> 00:12:49,853 An offer from them is quite an honor. 89 00:12:49,978 --> 00:12:50,896 No, no. 90 00:12:51,021 --> 00:12:52,731 Only superstars went there. 91 00:12:52,856 --> 00:12:54,149 I was like, "Who, me?" 92 00:12:55,817 --> 00:13:01,406 One day, my karate teacher asked me what I wanted to do. 93 00:13:01,531 --> 00:13:04,826 I said I wanted to become a chef and turned down every scholarship offer. 94 00:13:04,951 --> 00:13:10,832 Cooking requires discipline and training, just like karate. Martial arts is all about 95 00:13:11,708 --> 00:13:14,336 heart, technique, strength. As for heart... 96 00:13:14,461 --> 00:13:18,256 You can't be too close or too far to be effective. 97 00:13:18,590 --> 00:13:24,471 You want to give customers space but don't want them to feel detached either. 98 00:13:24,971 --> 00:13:29,142 I think karate taught me how to manage that space. 99 00:14:00,674 --> 00:14:01,883 Japanese Cuisine Sangencha 100 00:14:02,008 --> 00:14:06,471 I met Nobuhiko Masuda and he hired me to work at Sangencha. 101 00:14:06,596 --> 00:14:10,684 I worked for him for six years. 102 00:14:10,809 --> 00:14:15,981 You scolded me every day, and when you didn't, I felt like you'd given up on me. 103 00:14:16,106 --> 00:14:19,818 You were very aggressive and met me head-on. 104 00:14:19,943 --> 00:14:22,571 So I had to be the same way. 105 00:14:22,696 --> 00:14:24,990 And you had great potential. 106 00:14:26,157 --> 00:14:30,078 Your cooking has a lot of fighting spirit. 107 00:14:32,581 --> 00:14:35,208 You would never give up. 108 00:14:37,002 --> 00:14:40,547 Wild soft-shelled turtle is very chewy. 109 00:14:42,382 --> 00:14:44,884 So I took advantage of that. 110 00:14:45,010 --> 00:14:48,096 At the time, charcoal grilled soft-shelled turtle was unheard of. 111 00:14:48,513 --> 00:14:53,852 I thought of grilling it with a sweet soy sauce, like yakitori. 112 00:14:55,687 --> 00:14:58,523 It's a very simple dish. No embellishment. 113 00:14:59,107 --> 00:15:02,152 It's all about the flavor. 114 00:15:46,529 --> 00:15:49,115 Japanese Cuisine Shinohara 115 00:15:54,120 --> 00:15:55,789 Respect god, love people 116 00:16:12,681 --> 00:16:17,352 No one serves kaiseki cuisine in the middle of a rice field. 117 00:16:17,727 --> 00:16:23,316 For the first 7 months, I had no customers whatsoever. 118 00:16:30,657 --> 00:16:33,785 I was running out of capital 119 00:16:33,910 --> 00:16:38,289 and didn't even know if I could pay my part-time workers. 120 00:16:38,498 --> 00:16:44,671 I thought, "Where's a good place to die?" That's how bad it was. 121 00:16:49,884 --> 00:16:56,182 I still don't know exactly what sparked the turnaround. 122 00:16:56,307 --> 00:17:01,062 Some local ladies started coming to the restaurant for lunch. 123 00:17:01,187 --> 00:17:05,108 From there, it probably spread by word of mouth. 124 00:17:05,483 --> 00:17:10,321 Then, their husbands started using the restaurant to entertain clients. 125 00:17:10,447 --> 00:17:14,159 That's when we started to get busy. 126 00:17:14,284 --> 00:17:18,621 We had customers not just from Shiga Prefecture, but from major cities too. 127 00:17:18,747 --> 00:17:23,835 Osaka, Kobe, Nagoya. They came from all over. 128 00:17:23,960 --> 00:17:27,589 I wanted to use novel ingredients like foie gras and caviar. 129 00:17:27,714 --> 00:17:32,051 The local folks took one look at the foie gras and said, "No thanks." 130 00:17:32,177 --> 00:17:34,804 But it's so delicious, I wanted them to try it. 131 00:17:34,929 --> 00:17:38,349 A local sweet shop owner had a suggestion. 132 00:17:38,475 --> 00:17:43,062 Sandwiching the foie gras in thin mochi wafers called "monaka." 133 00:17:43,897 --> 00:17:49,778 I decided to give it a try. That's how the "foie gras monaka" was born. 134 00:18:23,186 --> 00:18:25,271 Making little cuts in firm ingredients 135 00:18:25,855 --> 00:18:28,316 to make it easier to eat. 136 00:18:28,441 --> 00:18:32,529 "Cooking with heart" is the true spirit of kaiseki cuisine. 137 00:18:44,624 --> 00:18:49,963 A customer from Tokyo told me about a new building coming up in Ginza. 138 00:18:50,088 --> 00:18:53,842 I took one look and decided to give it a go. 139 00:18:53,967 --> 00:18:56,052 My gut told me to do it. 140 00:18:56,302 --> 00:19:01,641 Ginza is the #1 district in Japan. The ideal place to challenge myself. 141 00:19:01,933 --> 00:19:06,104 My mindset changed in an instant. I had to do it. 142 00:19:06,521 --> 00:19:09,148 I was determined. 143 00:19:14,571 --> 00:19:16,281 When I was in 5th grade, 144 00:19:16,406 --> 00:19:22,495 my father had a suit of armor custom-made for me. 145 00:19:22,829 --> 00:19:28,293 By the time my restaurant got some traction, he'd already passed away. 146 00:19:28,418 --> 00:19:33,381 I regret not being able to show him how well I did. 147 00:19:34,716 --> 00:19:39,095 This restaurant in Shiga will be torn down. 148 00:19:39,220 --> 00:19:42,724 Soon a new building will be coming up. 149 00:19:42,849 --> 00:19:45,393 I'm at peace with it. 150 00:19:46,686 --> 00:19:50,607 I know that I no longer belong here. 151 00:20:56,214 --> 00:20:58,883 You don't feel the seasons as acutely in the city. 152 00:20:59,008 --> 00:21:02,553 So I want to evoke images of the countryside in my dishes. 153 00:21:02,679 --> 00:21:07,433 Like the mountains or certain flowers in bloom. 154 00:21:07,558 --> 00:21:10,895 To make customers yearn to return someplace. 155 00:21:11,020 --> 00:21:15,316 That's what I strive for in my presentation. 156 00:21:16,609 --> 00:21:21,531 I don't know how I come up with my Hassun presentations. 157 00:21:21,656 --> 00:21:24,242 You're recreating scenery from your childhood. 158 00:21:24,367 --> 00:21:29,539 Exactly as I remember it. That's what it's about. 159 00:21:29,664 --> 00:21:33,001 And that's how you create your Hassun, right? 160 00:23:18,064 --> 00:23:23,820 If you want the world to see your dishes, your craft... 161 00:23:28,449 --> 00:23:32,453 You have to compete on a bigger stage. 162 00:23:43,840 --> 00:23:49,137 In the end, it's about achieving a self-concept. 163 00:23:50,721 --> 00:23:53,516 It's not clear who I am or why I'm doing this. 164 00:23:54,183 --> 00:23:57,979 But ultimately, I want a clear answer. 165 00:23:58,104 --> 00:24:03,067 To know why I'm cooking. Why I'm here. 166 00:24:03,192 --> 00:24:08,906 I have to continue on this path to achieve that clarity. 167 00:24:47,028 --> 00:24:53,075 There are two women living inside me. Natsuko and Eteko. 168 00:24:54,869 --> 00:25:00,208 Natsuko is an introvert. She hides in her shell. 169 00:25:01,834 --> 00:25:05,129 Eteko is a workaholic 170 00:25:05,254 --> 00:25:09,300 and a pioneer who opens new doors for women in Japan. 171 00:25:09,425 --> 00:25:12,220 She's ambitious and brilliant. 172 00:25:47,546 --> 00:25:52,510 I wanted to create a world in which my cakes were like jewelry, 173 00:25:52,802 --> 00:25:56,305 instantly recognizable as my creations. 174 00:25:56,430 --> 00:26:01,310 And I'd use these signature cakes to launch myself into this space. 175 00:26:31,048 --> 00:26:33,718 This was my initial concept. 176 00:26:33,843 --> 00:26:40,057 "You gave my cake to someone special. Why not bring them to my restaurant?" 177 00:27:02,371 --> 00:27:04,582 - This is so good! - Thank you. 178 00:27:09,837 --> 00:27:14,675 Restaurant été is packed with Natsuko's artistry. 179 00:27:23,684 --> 00:27:26,604 A truly satisfying meal 180 00:27:26,729 --> 00:27:31,776 is one that's shared with the people you love. 181 00:27:32,151 --> 00:27:35,988 I want to create and serve a meal, and offer 182 00:27:36,113 --> 00:27:41,577 a dining experience that people can enjoy with the ones they love. 183 00:27:43,329 --> 00:27:46,290 I opted for a smaller restaurant 184 00:27:46,415 --> 00:27:51,921 so customers could smell the aroma of food. 185 00:27:52,213 --> 00:27:55,007 Bread is the best example. 186 00:28:44,849 --> 00:28:47,601 When I was in middle school, 187 00:28:47,726 --> 00:28:53,941 Takashi Murakami did a collaboration with Louis Vuitton. 188 00:28:54,066 --> 00:29:00,030 I was so excited when I saw his creations in the window. 189 00:29:00,156 --> 00:29:04,410 That was my first exposure to Takashi Murakami's art. 190 00:29:05,744 --> 00:29:09,206 I wanted to collaborate with him 191 00:29:09,790 --> 00:29:12,668 so I went to meet him. 192 00:29:18,132 --> 00:29:23,095 100% is a given. I want to give 2,000%. 193 00:29:23,429 --> 00:29:27,099 100% may impress the average person, 194 00:29:27,433 --> 00:29:31,228 but I want to create something that "wows" them. 195 00:29:31,937 --> 00:29:38,611 Something that awakens feelings that are in sleep mode. 196 00:29:39,528 --> 00:29:45,493 Like the thrill I felt as a child going to my first festival. 197 00:29:46,118 --> 00:29:49,497 That's the sensation I continue to strive for. 198 00:29:50,831 --> 00:29:53,667 For the most part, chefs and artists 199 00:29:53,792 --> 00:29:57,796 don't have much in common to talk about. 200 00:29:57,922 --> 00:30:02,009 But not so with you. I feel like I know where you're coming from. 201 00:30:02,134 --> 00:30:04,929 You're a visual person, right? 202 00:30:05,054 --> 00:30:07,348 Yes, I'm very sensory. 203 00:30:07,473 --> 00:30:12,311 My mother loves fashion. I think that's where I got it from. 204 00:30:12,603 --> 00:30:17,191 I remember going with her to a Tokyo fashion show 205 00:30:17,650 --> 00:30:20,152 to see a collection. 206 00:30:20,736 --> 00:30:25,783 I think that's the inspiration for my cakes. 207 00:30:43,217 --> 00:30:49,306 I call my dishes and cakes "collections" like in a fashion show. 208 00:31:15,207 --> 00:31:21,380 I've tasted artistic cuisine that fell short on flavor. 209 00:31:21,505 --> 00:31:25,843 But Natsuko creates visually exciting dishes 210 00:31:25,968 --> 00:31:28,512 that are also truly delicious. 211 00:31:30,556 --> 00:31:32,850 Without a doubt, cooking is art. 212 00:31:33,183 --> 00:31:38,939 I'm creating something fleeting and ephemeral. 213 00:31:39,064 --> 00:31:45,279 I want people to see value in my art, even if it's impermanent. 214 00:31:45,779 --> 00:31:49,491 To be acknowledged for my creative process. 215 00:31:50,200 --> 00:31:55,080 These collaborations help me to continue enhancing that value. 216 00:32:00,002 --> 00:32:02,004 How adorable! 217 00:32:05,799 --> 00:32:10,846 Her obsession with packaging was even greater than mine. 218 00:32:11,388 --> 00:32:15,934 The choice of paper, the stamped foil, the explanation inside. 219 00:32:16,060 --> 00:32:21,857 The proportions, the ribbon. It all demonstrated an insane worldview. 220 00:33:02,898 --> 00:33:06,568 Natsuko isn't very effective when it comes to business. 221 00:33:06,694 --> 00:33:10,781 She's not a good communicator. 222 00:33:11,323 --> 00:33:15,619 She's introverted and hates attention. 223 00:33:15,953 --> 00:33:18,080 She drags me down. 224 00:33:22,543 --> 00:33:27,923 My sister has a mental disability, so she'd keep me up at night. 225 00:33:28,048 --> 00:33:33,220 She tore up her textbooks so I would tape them back up. 226 00:33:33,554 --> 00:33:37,599 My father couldn't take the stress and started drinking. 227 00:33:37,725 --> 00:33:42,020 I didn't have the worries normal kids had, 228 00:33:42,438 --> 00:33:46,442 like hating school and things like that. 229 00:33:46,900 --> 00:33:50,320 I immersed myself in the world of cooking. 230 00:33:50,446 --> 00:33:54,491 It was all I could think about. 231 00:33:54,616 --> 00:33:57,870 I don't remember talking to Natsuko 232 00:33:57,995 --> 00:34:01,749 very much during that time. 233 00:34:02,541 --> 00:34:07,129 Before I knew it, my father was hospitalized and dying. 234 00:34:07,254 --> 00:34:12,050 We lived together, but I hadn't even noticed he'd been hospitalized. 235 00:34:13,844 --> 00:34:17,973 I didn't visit him much in the hospital. 236 00:34:20,684 --> 00:34:23,145 I wasn't even at his deathbed. 237 00:34:24,271 --> 00:34:27,191 I was busy making cakes at that time. 238 00:34:28,192 --> 00:34:32,696 I felt like I did something immoral. 239 00:34:32,821 --> 00:34:36,658 I was afraid of doing the same thing to my mother 240 00:34:36,784 --> 00:34:40,746 so I quit cooking at one point. 241 00:34:41,121 --> 00:34:45,167 But then I started to do some catering. 242 00:34:45,292 --> 00:34:49,463 Slowly but surely, I felt the urge to return to that world. 243 00:34:49,588 --> 00:34:54,927 Then I opened a restaurant all by myself. 244 00:35:16,657 --> 00:35:20,536 As my work got busier, 245 00:35:20,953 --> 00:35:24,915 I felt my personal life slipping away. 246 00:35:25,415 --> 00:35:28,585 I have to be Eteko all the time now. 247 00:35:28,710 --> 00:35:32,464 When she's snoring away at home, I can't believe it's the same person. 248 00:35:32,589 --> 00:35:36,176 She belongs to a different world. 249 00:35:36,426 --> 00:35:41,390 I heard later that she had a very difficult childhood. 250 00:35:41,640 --> 00:35:46,270 As soon as I took my first bite 251 00:35:46,395 --> 00:35:48,564 I knew she was a bit insane. 252 00:35:48,689 --> 00:35:49,815 She's crazy. 253 00:35:49,940 --> 00:35:53,110 It's not a calculated approach for recognition or anything. 254 00:35:53,235 --> 00:35:56,572 If your own life isn't reflected in your artistic expression, 255 00:35:56,697 --> 00:36:00,075 you'll never reach that level of creativity. 256 00:36:00,450 --> 00:36:03,996 She pulled that off. 257 00:36:37,946 --> 00:36:41,700 He told me that people who suffer hardships 258 00:36:42,826 --> 00:36:48,624 often create art that's never been seen before. 259 00:36:49,458 --> 00:36:54,171 But only a handful of people can do it. That was my saving grace. 260 00:36:58,008 --> 00:37:00,344 You received an award a couple of days ago? 261 00:37:00,469 --> 00:37:03,013 Yes. "Asia's Best Pastry Chef"! 262 00:37:03,138 --> 00:37:05,390 Yay! 263 00:37:06,099 --> 00:37:08,310 That's wonderful. 264 00:37:08,685 --> 00:37:10,103 How many women have won it? 265 00:37:10,228 --> 00:37:11,521 I'm the first Japanese woman! 266 00:37:11,647 --> 00:37:15,233 Yay! Thunderous applause! 267 00:37:15,359 --> 00:37:16,693 Amazing. 268 00:37:16,985 --> 00:37:21,990 There are far too few female chefs in Japan. 269 00:37:29,873 --> 00:37:32,209 I'm sure there are others, 270 00:37:32,334 --> 00:37:36,797 but Natsuko is the only one that comes to mind straight away. 271 00:37:38,674 --> 00:37:42,511 If you want to immerse yourself in work, 272 00:37:42,636 --> 00:37:45,430 I think it's OK to put off marriage 273 00:37:45,555 --> 00:37:48,725 or have your husband support you. 274 00:37:49,393 --> 00:37:55,148 I want to encourage more women to become chefs. 275 00:37:55,273 --> 00:37:59,653 I had similar aspirations until I turned 35 or so. Then I gave up. 276 00:38:00,779 --> 00:38:02,614 Japan ain't gonna change. 277 00:38:04,074 --> 00:38:08,829 But I hope you're the pioneer that changes the future. 278 00:38:09,329 --> 00:38:12,791 I'll do my best. Even if it's lonely. 279 00:38:12,916 --> 00:38:18,797 I think we exchanged about 150 texts today. 280 00:38:19,673 --> 00:38:23,260 I could tell she was frustrated. 281 00:38:23,385 --> 00:38:28,348 I told her, "It can't be helped. Very few people understand us." 282 00:38:28,682 --> 00:38:34,646 I think she's always living with insanity. 283 00:38:38,942 --> 00:38:44,072 I moved my restaurant so I could up my game for my customers. 284 00:38:46,199 --> 00:38:51,997 If a little restaurant like mine could get a Michelin star, 285 00:38:52,122 --> 00:38:56,293 it could serve as a role model, helping small businesses to flourish. 286 00:39:38,794 --> 00:39:40,754 To été Natsuko 287 00:40:03,026 --> 00:40:08,573 Eteko is very competitive. Her biggest rival is herself. 288 00:41:27,110 --> 00:41:30,363 Joël Robuchon emceed himself to make sure 289 00:41:30,488 --> 00:41:33,533 the housewives understood what he was doing. 290 00:41:33,658 --> 00:41:38,288 If he was filleting a fish, we'd prep it. If it was taking too long, 291 00:41:38,413 --> 00:41:40,290 we'd switch it out with the prepped fish. 292 00:41:40,498 --> 00:41:46,296 I learned a lot from recipes left by many great chefs on the program. 293 00:41:54,137 --> 00:41:59,643 If asked who will carry on his legacy, 294 00:41:59,893 --> 00:42:03,521 I think Yosuke Suga's name would be right up there. 295 00:42:23,708 --> 00:42:27,003 I studied French cuisine under Joël Robuchon. 296 00:42:27,128 --> 00:42:32,342 Technically, it's the only cuisine I know how to do. 297 00:42:32,884 --> 00:42:38,723 Whereas cooking in Japan with local ingredients is by definition 298 00:42:38,848 --> 00:42:40,392 Japanese cuisine, if done right. 299 00:42:40,517 --> 00:42:44,813 But what if you integrated an essence of French cuisine 300 00:42:44,938 --> 00:42:47,774 somewhere in those dishes? 301 00:42:47,899 --> 00:42:50,193 Maybe it would be an original. 302 00:42:51,444 --> 00:42:53,989 That's SUGALABO cuisine. 303 00:44:01,222 --> 00:44:04,768 What you serve has to taste good. That's a given. 304 00:44:04,893 --> 00:44:10,273 But beyond that, when people come to eat at SUGALABO, 305 00:44:10,398 --> 00:44:14,277 I want them to know why I used a certain ingredient. 306 00:44:14,402 --> 00:44:20,033 I think they'd be interested in the story behind it. 307 00:44:49,354 --> 00:44:51,523 Got it! I got it! 308 00:44:57,695 --> 00:44:59,322 Here it comes! 309 00:45:03,451 --> 00:45:05,995 This lotus root is stubborn! 310 00:45:06,204 --> 00:45:09,791 Lotus root from Kaga is very glutinous. 311 00:45:09,916 --> 00:45:14,587 When heated, it gets even stickier, creating a nice texture. 312 00:45:19,676 --> 00:45:21,719 - OK. - Twist and pull. 313 00:45:28,309 --> 00:45:31,271 Yum! I feel like a rabbit. 314 00:45:33,773 --> 00:45:37,819 It's called "reddish brown soil" because there's a lot of iron in it. 315 00:45:37,944 --> 00:45:39,779 - Lots of minerals. - Yes, minerals. 316 00:46:30,955 --> 00:46:35,752 This is a "golden crab." A hybrid between a red snow crab and snow crab. 317 00:46:35,877 --> 00:46:38,588 A hybrid crab, huh? 318 00:46:38,713 --> 00:46:41,549 The bigger it gets, the firmer its meat becomes. 319 00:46:41,674 --> 00:46:45,637 I love thick bigfin reef squid. Adding tiny cuts will do. 320 00:47:27,220 --> 00:47:32,016 In the still of the night, I can hear it bubbling quietly. 321 00:47:32,141 --> 00:47:35,144 I love that sound. 322 00:47:39,315 --> 00:47:43,695 The lactic acid prevents bacterial growth 323 00:47:44,028 --> 00:47:47,323 and tones down the acidity. 324 00:48:05,758 --> 00:48:07,927 Grated lotus root from Kaga. 325 00:48:08,177 --> 00:48:11,973 No fillers or flour. I just wring the water out of it. 326 00:48:16,769 --> 00:48:19,063 Look how springy it is. 327 00:49:29,425 --> 00:49:34,639 I want people to know about these amazing ingredients 328 00:49:35,598 --> 00:49:37,725 grown by regional producers. 329 00:49:40,603 --> 00:49:45,900 If I discover them on my travels and bring them to Tokyo, 330 00:49:46,025 --> 00:49:51,197 and people realize how much Japan has to offer, it may inspire them to travel. 331 00:49:58,830 --> 00:50:01,207 It would stimulate the economy too. 332 00:50:14,595 --> 00:50:16,681 I want to continue traveling 333 00:50:16,806 --> 00:50:21,644 and discovering great products. How else can I tell their stories? 334 00:50:44,167 --> 00:50:49,756 My grandfather opened a western restaurant called Kobeya. 335 00:50:49,881 --> 00:50:53,009 It was the start of our family business. 336 00:50:53,634 --> 00:50:57,889 Then my father branched out and opened a French restaurant and patisserie. 337 00:50:58,014 --> 00:51:02,185 Our family started the Chez KOBE brand. 338 00:51:02,310 --> 00:51:06,898 My father is a very sociable man. 339 00:51:07,023 --> 00:51:10,193 Quite unusual for a restaurant owner in Japan. 340 00:51:10,318 --> 00:51:11,986 He is a "restaurateur." 341 00:51:12,737 --> 00:51:16,282 So I think of myself not so much as "Chef Yosuke Suga" 342 00:51:16,532 --> 00:51:22,371 but rather "restaurateur Yosuke Suga." 343 00:51:22,497 --> 00:51:27,877 I suppose my father had a big influence on me. 344 00:51:32,882 --> 00:51:38,513 The word "Labo" may evoke an image of molecular gastronomy, 345 00:51:38,638 --> 00:51:44,519 but it's about the chemistry that results from people connecting through food. 346 00:51:44,644 --> 00:51:48,940 I'm not just running a restaurant. I'm also a consultant. 347 00:51:49,065 --> 00:51:53,736 It's a laboratory that explores the potential of that connection. 348 00:52:00,868 --> 00:52:03,246 For the past five years 349 00:52:03,371 --> 00:52:08,876 I've worked with Japan Airlines on their First Class meals. 350 00:52:19,053 --> 00:52:25,017 I wouldn't pour the white asparagus cream sauce before serving. 351 00:52:25,268 --> 00:52:30,356 I think the guest should decide how much sauce they want. 352 00:52:36,445 --> 00:52:40,575 It's hard to capture a nice, juicy texture. 353 00:52:40,700 --> 00:52:43,369 Salt will dry it out. 354 00:52:43,494 --> 00:52:49,834 To maintain the best texture for in-flight dining, I'd cut the salt 355 00:52:49,959 --> 00:52:55,548 and enhance the texture with this flavorful sauce. 356 00:53:04,599 --> 00:53:10,605 I supervise a restaurant in Daikanyama called COTEAU. 357 00:53:15,276 --> 00:53:20,573 This clam sauce is pretty salty, so be careful. 358 00:53:31,834 --> 00:53:37,924 High tea is supposed to be feminine and sophisticated. 359 00:53:38,049 --> 00:53:42,762 Demonstrate your potential. Like, "Look what I can do." 360 00:53:43,346 --> 00:53:49,268 Talented people are creators. Not people who just follow directions. 361 00:53:51,020 --> 00:53:54,440 You should challenge yourself. 362 00:54:04,784 --> 00:54:08,412 I opened a restaurant called SUGALABO V in Osaka 363 00:54:08,746 --> 00:54:13,793 in collaboration with Louis Vuitton. 364 00:54:35,690 --> 00:54:38,609 30 minutes to serve one gratin dish? 365 00:54:39,026 --> 00:54:41,821 Where's the teamwork here? 366 00:54:41,946 --> 00:54:48,744 If tables haven't been served, then assume something is wrong. 367 00:54:48,869 --> 00:54:53,791 A restaurant is like a sport. Speed is critical. 368 00:54:53,916 --> 00:54:58,129 Everyone is working on their own. There's no coordination. 369 00:54:58,254 --> 00:55:04,593 He treats staff like dirt and focuses solely on the customer. 370 00:55:04,719 --> 00:55:05,970 Here it comes. 371 00:55:06,095 --> 00:55:07,138 The madam over here. 372 00:55:07,888 --> 00:55:12,101 But that's how it was when we worked for Joël Robuchon. 373 00:55:12,435 --> 00:55:14,729 Chef Suga still works that way. 374 00:55:15,104 --> 00:55:20,818 Robuchon decided to open new restaurants in Japan and France in 2003. 375 00:55:20,943 --> 00:55:25,823 He told me to run the one in Japan. 376 00:55:25,948 --> 00:55:31,037 He caught me off guard. 377 00:55:31,746 --> 00:55:35,791 I returned to Japan at the age of 26 378 00:55:35,916 --> 00:55:39,462 to open L'ATELIER de Joël Robuchon in Roppongi Hills. 379 00:55:39,587 --> 00:55:44,925 The menu was only decided on the day before the opening. 380 00:55:45,051 --> 00:55:51,807 No time to test operations or train the staff beforehand. 381 00:55:51,932 --> 00:55:56,812 The food was taking forever, it was chaos. 382 00:56:02,193 --> 00:56:07,865 People call him a "god" or a "king." 383 00:56:07,990 --> 00:56:13,162 But to me, he's like a second father. 384 00:56:13,287 --> 00:56:18,000 There was love there, but also strict discipline. 385 00:56:18,125 --> 00:56:23,464 When problems arose, he had my back. In the culinary world, he was my father. 386 00:56:27,343 --> 00:56:29,845 Cooking is an act of love. 387 00:56:30,679 --> 00:56:35,309 Always think about the customer. 388 00:56:35,684 --> 00:56:39,688 He has the ability to tap into customers' emotions. 389 00:56:40,356 --> 00:56:46,987 That is, in fact, the secret to making delicious food. 390 00:56:47,113 --> 00:56:48,823 So for instance, 391 00:56:48,948 --> 00:56:54,453 most children love what their mothers cook. 392 00:56:55,746 --> 00:57:00,459 He takes a similar approach with his customers. 393 00:57:00,584 --> 00:57:02,753 He creates that type of relationship. 394 00:57:03,087 --> 00:57:07,508 His customers always expect to be surprised. 395 00:58:25,669 --> 00:58:32,843 I don't think chefs are meant to simply cook the food. 396 00:58:33,177 --> 00:58:38,933 What can I communicate through food? Everything is an experiment. 397 00:58:39,183 --> 00:58:46,023 I want to continue exploring exciting new frontiers to prove myself. 398 00:59:07,169 --> 00:59:12,258 Personally, I don't know where my job ends and my life begins. 399 00:59:12,383 --> 00:59:16,345 To live life as a sushi chef 400 00:59:17,429 --> 00:59:21,433 is like being born a boy or a girl. 401 00:59:21,684 --> 00:59:27,064 I believe I was born to be a creature called a "sushi chef." 402 00:59:28,232 --> 00:59:31,277 And how I continue to live. 403 01:00:33,839 --> 01:00:37,301 Toyosu Market 404 01:00:44,600 --> 01:00:47,436 Yo, yo, yo. 405 01:00:50,814 --> 01:00:52,649 Good morning. 406 01:00:53,776 --> 01:00:55,361 Ishiji 407 01:00:55,569 --> 01:00:57,988 - This piece is all for you. - Thank you. 408 01:00:58,113 --> 01:00:59,907 Take whatever you want. 409 01:01:00,032 --> 01:01:02,910 What if I only wanted this much? 410 01:01:03,327 --> 01:01:04,745 That would be sad. 411 01:01:13,170 --> 01:01:17,299 We have a very close relationship with the tuna brokers. 412 01:01:17,841 --> 01:01:19,635 It's a 3-legged race. 413 01:01:19,760 --> 01:01:24,723 This is just the right amount to serve by Sunday. 414 01:01:25,307 --> 01:01:29,853 So you'll leave it for two days and serve it on the third day? 415 01:01:29,978 --> 01:01:32,523 If I come across a really good fish... 416 01:01:32,648 --> 01:01:33,732 I'll take it. 417 01:01:39,780 --> 01:01:41,323 Is this from Kochi? 418 01:01:41,448 --> 01:01:42,866 Off the Kochi coast. 419 01:01:45,411 --> 01:01:49,123 His eye for picking fish is unparalleled. 420 01:01:49,248 --> 01:01:53,627 Sometimes I have doubts about the fish he recommends. 421 01:01:53,752 --> 01:01:56,380 But when I cut into it, 422 01:01:56,505 --> 01:02:01,885 I'm shocked by my own lack of insight. 423 01:02:09,476 --> 01:02:13,188 You should pick a little firmer gizzard shad at this time of year. 424 01:02:13,313 --> 01:02:15,732 If the shad is soft already... 425 01:02:15,858 --> 01:02:16,775 It's hard to cut. 426 01:02:16,900 --> 01:02:19,319 It's past its prime already. 427 01:02:24,241 --> 01:02:26,368 This one is good. 428 01:02:26,493 --> 01:02:28,370 He gives you the best one, Mr. Yoshitake. 429 01:02:28,495 --> 01:02:30,831 You both get the best, Mr. Sugita. 430 01:02:31,331 --> 01:02:33,375 I choose the right fish for the right customer. 431 01:02:37,504 --> 01:02:41,800 As an apprentice, I felt more like a guest. 432 01:02:41,925 --> 01:02:44,928 Like I didn't really belong in the fish market. 433 01:02:45,053 --> 01:02:47,973 But nowadays, it feels like I'm coming home. 434 01:02:53,061 --> 01:02:57,316 The brokers send me off, saying "Have a good one." 435 01:02:58,108 --> 01:02:59,568 Have a good one. 436 01:03:00,777 --> 01:03:05,032 I feel like my day begins here. 437 01:03:12,706 --> 01:03:14,666 - Good morning. - Morning. 438 01:03:15,000 --> 01:03:16,585 I'm back. 439 01:04:05,551 --> 01:04:10,722 Whatever enhancements a sushi chef tries to make, 440 01:04:10,847 --> 01:04:14,059 a good piece of tuna will always steal the show. 441 01:04:14,184 --> 01:04:17,020 It's a powerful ingredient. 442 01:04:17,145 --> 01:04:20,357 As a sushi chef, I feel a bit defeated. 443 01:04:49,803 --> 01:04:53,599 I feel so weak. Like a good-for-nothing. 444 01:04:54,182 --> 01:04:58,145 My fingers are so clumsy. 445 01:04:58,770 --> 01:05:01,857 I have no confidence in myself. 446 01:05:01,982 --> 01:05:08,405 That's why when I meet someone truly talented, I feel humbled. 447 01:05:21,209 --> 01:05:25,505 TEXAS is the first restaurant in Tokyo 448 01:05:25,631 --> 01:05:29,926 that my master took me to. 449 01:05:30,218 --> 01:05:36,058 I ate something called hamburger steak curry gratin. 450 01:05:36,183 --> 01:05:39,728 It was so caloric, I didn't know if I should even eat it at 11:00 pm. 451 01:05:39,853 --> 01:05:41,730 But it was so delicious. 452 01:05:42,481 --> 01:05:46,360 My mom, dad and I ran the restaurant. 453 01:05:46,485 --> 01:05:51,782 The customers thought we had a nice rhythm going. 454 01:05:51,907 --> 01:05:55,035 Her mom was sharp. A real downtown lady. 455 01:05:55,160 --> 01:05:59,581 She told a customer, "I sell steaks, not flattery." 456 01:05:59,706 --> 01:06:02,501 I couldn't interact with customers like she did. 457 01:06:02,834 --> 01:06:08,382 I'm the type to get down on my knees to be at eye-level with my customer. 458 01:06:08,507 --> 01:06:13,845 The most important thing she taught me was never be a flatterer. 459 01:06:21,520 --> 01:06:23,522 There was a local festival. 460 01:06:23,647 --> 01:06:28,527 Ever since I was a kid, I loved festivals. I took part in many parades. 461 01:06:28,819 --> 01:06:31,196 My mother-in-law saw me 462 01:06:31,321 --> 01:06:35,325 and said, "Teach my daughter about festivals, will you?" 463 01:06:35,450 --> 01:06:39,996 Festival guys look cool, so it was probably love at first sight. 464 01:06:40,122 --> 01:06:42,833 Yes, it was love at first sight. 465 01:06:48,380 --> 01:06:51,133 "Nihonbashi Tachibanacho Miyakozushi." 466 01:06:51,299 --> 01:06:56,847 My first solo restaurant. 467 01:06:57,139 --> 01:07:02,686 I started not from zero, but from a negative. 468 01:07:02,811 --> 01:07:08,400 Two sushi restaurants named "Miyakozushi" tried to make it here 469 01:07:08,525 --> 01:07:10,444 and had to close. 470 01:07:11,486 --> 01:07:17,284 The locals said, "Renovate all you want, it'll still be mediocre." 471 01:07:17,409 --> 01:07:20,412 That really got to me. 472 01:07:20,662 --> 01:07:26,626 I knew I had to be memorable. To catch their attention. 473 01:07:26,752 --> 01:07:30,297 So I tried to be unique 474 01:07:30,589 --> 01:07:33,216 but I ended up being inconsistent. 475 01:07:36,261 --> 01:07:39,848 That's the kind of restaurant it was. 476 01:07:43,769 --> 01:07:46,062 - I'm here. - Good morning. 477 01:07:47,230 --> 01:07:48,857 Good morning. 478 01:08:02,454 --> 01:08:05,540 I assumed using expensive rice was better than using cheap rice. 479 01:08:06,124 --> 01:08:07,709 That was about it. 480 01:08:08,043 --> 01:08:12,214 And as I was trying to find ways to improve the rice, 481 01:08:12,339 --> 01:08:14,758 I met Mr. Funakubo. 482 01:08:15,550 --> 01:08:19,971 When asked why I was making rice this way, I couldn't answer him. 483 01:08:20,597 --> 01:08:24,434 Rice brokers always have an answer, no matter what. 484 01:08:24,559 --> 01:08:26,186 Because they understand. 485 01:08:32,067 --> 01:08:33,985 It's 2.5. 486 01:08:34,653 --> 01:08:36,446 Let's open it up 1 cm. 487 01:08:36,571 --> 01:08:37,948 You mean now? 488 01:08:38,532 --> 01:08:40,283 Can I open it? 489 01:08:40,408 --> 01:08:42,994 - And now... - Can I leave this gap? 490 01:08:43,161 --> 01:08:47,874 Let a little pressure escape. Then the foam will settle. 491 01:08:49,084 --> 01:08:52,295 Don't let the rice flounder and rise to the top. 492 01:08:52,420 --> 01:08:56,466 When the water level goes down, close the lid. 493 01:08:56,591 --> 01:08:59,719 And then determine when to put out the fire? 494 01:08:59,845 --> 01:09:01,721 Yes, the timing is critical. 495 01:09:01,847 --> 01:09:03,431 To create a nice texture. 496 01:09:12,524 --> 01:09:16,152 Eventually, customers started saying, 497 01:09:16,444 --> 01:09:20,490 "Your rice tastes so much better." 498 01:10:28,350 --> 01:10:32,687 The fish that we prepare, the topping for the sushi 499 01:10:32,812 --> 01:10:38,109 isn't meant to be eaten alone. The rice definitely enhances it. 500 01:10:54,167 --> 01:10:57,545 When someone asks, "Why are you doing this?" 501 01:10:57,671 --> 01:11:00,131 you have to have an answer. 502 01:11:04,219 --> 01:11:08,264 You chew on it, swallow it, 503 01:11:08,390 --> 01:11:12,185 and do the job that you've fully digested. 504 01:11:14,062 --> 01:11:18,900 Every action is filtered through you 505 01:11:19,442 --> 01:11:21,528 to create your signature style. 506 01:11:26,574 --> 01:11:29,452 I can be unique without doing something different. 507 01:11:29,577 --> 01:11:34,874 That was where I ended up. Where I landed. 508 01:12:10,035 --> 01:12:15,373 The perfection that happens when I mold the sushi in my hands 509 01:12:15,498 --> 01:12:17,459 is Edo-style sushi. 510 01:12:22,005 --> 01:12:24,466 I say, "It's nothing special" 511 01:12:24,883 --> 01:12:29,262 but a ton of research and calculation has gone into it. 512 01:12:29,387 --> 01:12:32,474 I think that's pretty cool. 513 01:12:33,725 --> 01:12:35,852 That's "Edo-style." 514 01:13:00,085 --> 01:13:04,798 I spent 11 and a half years 515 01:13:05,048 --> 01:13:08,968 as "Nihonbashi Tachibanacho Miyakozushi." 516 01:13:09,094 --> 01:13:13,765 Until then, I rarely had a chance to talk to my father-in-law. 517 01:13:13,890 --> 01:13:19,395 For some reason, that New Year's Day we got to talk about his younger days. 518 01:13:19,521 --> 01:13:23,733 About how hard it was when he first opened the restaurant. 519 01:13:24,150 --> 01:13:28,029 He said he wanted to work for two more years before he retired. 520 01:13:28,154 --> 01:13:33,159 Then he'd have some time for himself. 521 01:13:33,743 --> 01:13:36,204 It was literally right after that. 522 01:13:36,538 --> 01:13:38,581 He suddenly collapsed. 523 01:13:39,249 --> 01:13:42,710 It was very sad to lose TEXAS. 524 01:13:42,836 --> 01:13:46,464 It would've been a shame if someone else moved in here. 525 01:13:46,589 --> 01:13:52,387 We felt like this place was a vital part of our lives. 526 01:13:52,512 --> 01:13:56,141 So we decided to move in. 527 01:13:56,266 --> 01:13:57,892 It was our fate. 528 01:13:58,017 --> 01:14:00,228 I believed we could carry on 529 01:14:00,353 --> 01:14:01,813 the spirit and soul of TEXAS. 530 01:14:28,423 --> 01:14:33,511 Japanese chefs cook not only with their bodies and brains, but also their souls. 531 01:14:33,636 --> 01:14:36,097 It sounds easy, but it's really complicated. 532 01:15:01,372 --> 01:15:03,333 Restaurant TEXAS 533 01:15:20,350 --> 01:15:23,269 We shokunins (artisans) 534 01:15:24,270 --> 01:15:26,022 try day by day 535 01:15:26,773 --> 01:15:30,944 to do things we couldn't do the day before. 536 01:15:31,945 --> 01:15:37,408 To improve ourselves, little by little. There's no goal in sight. 537 01:15:39,035 --> 01:15:40,912 I can't even imagine one. 538 01:15:42,413 --> 01:15:47,001 Maybe the elusiveness is what keeps it fresh and worth pursuing. 539 01:16:44,142 --> 01:16:47,603 I won't quit being a sushi chef, just as I won't quit being human. 540 01:16:49,522 --> 01:16:52,317 I don't know how far it is to the summit. 541 01:16:54,235 --> 01:16:58,614 When I've done all that I can do, 542 01:16:59,907 --> 01:17:02,327 I hope that place will be 543 01:17:03,703 --> 01:17:07,373 the summit that I once aspired to. 44740

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