Would you like to inspect the original subtitles? These are the user uploaded subtitles that are being translated:
1
00:00:04,400 --> 00:00:06,840
The beautiful coasts of
Turkey and eastern Europe
2
00:00:06,880 --> 00:00:09,960
are visited by
millions of us every year.
3
00:00:11,760 --> 00:00:16,440
But a few miles inland
is a whole different world.
4
00:00:18,280 --> 00:00:25,000
One that is intoxicating,
mysterious and steeped in history.
5
00:00:25,040 --> 00:00:27,680
This is such an incredible building,
6
00:00:27,720 --> 00:00:33,520
it was the largest church
in the world for 1,000 years.
7
00:00:33,560 --> 00:00:37,000
The land where one of
the most formidable empires,
8
00:00:37,040 --> 00:00:38,960
lasting six centuries
9
00:00:39,000 --> 00:00:42,480
and spanning continents was founded.
10
00:00:42,520 --> 00:00:43,880
Tesekkur ederim.
11
00:00:43,920 --> 00:00:45,080
I'm Alice Roberts,
12
00:00:45,120 --> 00:00:49,280
and I'm travelling hundreds
of miles by train through Turkey
13
00:00:49,320 --> 00:00:50,440
and eastern Europe.
14
00:00:50,480 --> 00:00:52,480
Oh, wow, look at that.
15
00:00:52,520 --> 00:00:54,520
Lovely.
16
00:00:54,560 --> 00:00:57,520
I want to discover
the fascinating story...
17
00:00:57,560 --> 00:00:58,760
Go.
18
00:00:58,800 --> 00:01:00,120
..of the Ottoman Empire.
19
00:01:00,160 --> 00:01:01,840
Oh, no.
SHE CHUCKLES
20
00:01:03,640 --> 00:01:06,720
This is the mausoleum
of Osman himself,
21
00:01:06,760 --> 00:01:09,760
the sultan who started
the Ottoman dynasty.
22
00:01:09,800 --> 00:01:12,760
Through it's
distinctive architecture...
23
00:01:12,800 --> 00:01:14,560
Beautiful courtyard.
24
00:01:14,600 --> 00:01:16,320
..it's historical leaders...
25
00:01:16,360 --> 00:01:20,440
The early Ottoman sultans
had their eye on this prize,
26
00:01:20,480 --> 00:01:21,880
Constantinople.
27
00:01:21,920 --> 00:01:25,640
..and remnants of
its turbulent past.
28
00:01:25,680 --> 00:01:27,400
What a horrific monument.
29
00:01:33,040 --> 00:01:35,920
It's the final chapter
of my Ottoman journey,
30
00:01:35,960 --> 00:01:39,560
and I'm travelling
through Eastern Europe.
31
00:01:39,600 --> 00:01:42,280
In Romania, I go in
search of the Ottoman relics
32
00:01:42,320 --> 00:01:45,520
that survived the purge
at the end of the empire,
33
00:01:45,560 --> 00:01:48,360
where everything was destroyed,
almost.
34
00:01:48,400 --> 00:01:50,920
Probably it's one
of the very few cities
35
00:01:50,960 --> 00:01:53,280
destroyed in Europe completely.
36
00:01:53,320 --> 00:01:54,920
Completely destroyed?
Completely destroyed.
37
00:01:54,960 --> 00:01:57,120
So they wipe out
all the Ottoman traces?
38
00:01:57,160 --> 00:02:00,920
Only very few monuments
here which survived.
39
00:02:00,960 --> 00:02:02,920
I then head to Budapest,
40
00:02:02,960 --> 00:02:04,480
the capital of Hungary,
41
00:02:04,520 --> 00:02:07,680
to come face-to-face
with a dervish ruler.
42
00:02:07,720 --> 00:02:10,200
So who was Gul Baba,
why was he important?
43
00:02:10,240 --> 00:02:13,800
He was arriving
with the Ottoman army
44
00:02:13,840 --> 00:02:16,960
at the end of the conquer of Buda.
45
00:02:17,000 --> 00:02:19,120
So this is the sixteenth century...
Absolutely.
46
00:02:19,160 --> 00:02:20,680
..with Suleiman the Magnificent?
47
00:02:20,720 --> 00:02:22,200
Absolutely. Yeah.
48
00:02:22,240 --> 00:02:24,480
And at the very limit of the empire,
49
00:02:24,520 --> 00:02:26,200
at its western most point,
50
00:02:26,240 --> 00:02:28,800
I find out how it
all came to an end...
51
00:02:28,840 --> 00:02:31,840
During World War I, they had an
alliance with Germany,
52
00:02:31,880 --> 00:02:34,440
which in many ways
ends up being there undoing.
53
00:02:34,480 --> 00:02:37,440
They chose the wrong side. Yeah.
54
00:02:37,480 --> 00:02:40,960
..as I explore the
Ottoman Empire by train.
55
00:02:59,000 --> 00:03:01,240
I've always loved
travelling by train,
56
00:03:01,280 --> 00:03:03,360
no matter where I am in the world.
57
00:03:03,400 --> 00:03:06,280
It's a great way to
experience the changing landscape
58
00:03:06,320 --> 00:03:07,880
and to meet people.
59
00:03:07,920 --> 00:03:11,560
Perhaps part of the attraction
as well is that it's not always
60
00:03:11,600 --> 00:03:14,320
luxurious or straightforward,
as I've learned
61
00:03:14,360 --> 00:03:19,600
travelling through the
Balkans on my Ottoman adventure.
62
00:03:19,640 --> 00:03:23,840
Well, it's been a bit of a mission
getting from Serbia to Romania.
63
00:03:23,880 --> 00:03:26,640
Not all the railway lines were open,
64
00:03:26,680 --> 00:03:33,280
but finally here I am in Romania
and approaching Timisoara.
65
00:03:33,320 --> 00:03:38,280
I'm travelling on Romania's oldest
railway line, built in 1854.
66
00:03:38,320 --> 00:03:44,000
It runs from the Serbian border
into the city of Timisoara.
67
00:03:44,040 --> 00:03:46,000
This train may not
be the most salubrious
68
00:03:46,040 --> 00:03:47,720
that I've taken on this adventure,
69
00:03:47,760 --> 00:03:50,360
and it's certainly not the longest,
70
00:03:50,400 --> 00:03:52,320
but it is rather charming.
71
00:04:09,440 --> 00:04:12,000
Since I set off on
this Ottoman train trip,
72
00:04:12,040 --> 00:04:15,560
starting in Adana near
the Syrian border in Turkey,
73
00:04:15,600 --> 00:04:18,920
I've travelled 1,400 miles.
74
00:04:18,960 --> 00:04:22,320
And, today, I am arriving
in Timisoara.
75
00:04:22,360 --> 00:04:25,040
At first sight, an intriguing city,
76
00:04:25,080 --> 00:04:27,360
which was once an Ottoman stronghold
77
00:04:27,400 --> 00:04:29,800
and is now Europe's city of culture.
78
00:04:34,600 --> 00:04:36,360
The city has the largest array
79
00:04:36,400 --> 00:04:38,960
of architecturally
diverse buildings,
80
00:04:39,000 --> 00:04:40,280
in all of Romania.
81
00:04:42,800 --> 00:04:46,040
From Baroque,
to Neoclassical to Art Nouveau.
82
00:04:47,040 --> 00:04:51,640
These styles are represented
across three major squares.
83
00:04:51,680 --> 00:04:54,600
Union Square...
84
00:04:54,640 --> 00:04:57,600
..Victory Square...
85
00:04:57,640 --> 00:04:59,320
..and Liberty Square...
86
00:05:01,040 --> 00:05:03,640
..earning it the nickname
Little Vienna.
87
00:05:07,200 --> 00:05:09,200
Back in the thirteenth century,
88
00:05:09,240 --> 00:05:12,200
Mongols and Tatars
invaded the region,
89
00:05:12,240 --> 00:05:15,320
destroying much of Timisoara.
90
00:05:15,360 --> 00:05:18,800
But by 1316,
the city had been rebuilt.
91
00:05:22,720 --> 00:05:27,720
Now, that is the oldest
historic building in Timisoara.
92
00:05:27,760 --> 00:05:30,200
It dates back to
before the Ottoman period,
93
00:05:30,240 --> 00:05:31,440
to the 15th century,
94
00:05:31,480 --> 00:05:33,400
it's called the Huniade Castle,
95
00:05:33,440 --> 00:05:36,680
and it was built by
the Hungarian John Huniade.
96
00:05:36,720 --> 00:05:40,240
He was the Hungarian Count
of Timisoara.
97
00:05:40,280 --> 00:05:42,800
He kept the Ottomans at bay,
98
00:05:42,840 --> 00:05:46,800
but in the 16th century,
they came and took the city,
99
00:05:46,840 --> 00:05:49,120
and this castle
became the residence of
100
00:05:49,160 --> 00:05:54,600
the Ottoman Governor,
the Beylerbey.
101
00:05:54,640 --> 00:05:57,440
The castle has survived
natural disasters,
102
00:05:57,480 --> 00:05:59,560
wars and uprisings.
103
00:05:59,600 --> 00:06:02,320
It became a museum in 1948,
104
00:06:02,360 --> 00:06:04,160
but it's closed today.
105
00:06:04,200 --> 00:06:08,240
It's been undergoing major
renovations for nearly 20 years now.
106
00:06:10,600 --> 00:06:14,440
There is no doubt
Timisoara has had a chequered past.
107
00:06:14,480 --> 00:06:16,320
And this monument bears testament
108
00:06:16,360 --> 00:06:19,320
to one of its most
recent historic moments,
109
00:06:19,360 --> 00:06:22,320
the 1989 Romanian Revolution
110
00:06:22,360 --> 00:06:23,960
that began in this city
111
00:06:24,000 --> 00:06:26,920
when 4,000 people
gathered in Victory Square
112
00:06:26,960 --> 00:06:30,080
to protest against
the Communist regime,
113
00:06:30,120 --> 00:06:32,640
ultimately leading to its demise
114
00:06:32,680 --> 00:06:35,120
and that of its leader,
Nicolae Ceausescu.
115
00:06:41,360 --> 00:06:43,840
This is the Bega Canal.
116
00:06:45,600 --> 00:06:47,600
The first canal built in Romania.
117
00:06:48,880 --> 00:06:51,160
During the 18th and 19th centuries,
118
00:06:51,200 --> 00:06:56,240
it was used to transport goods
to Budapest 200 miles away.
119
00:07:01,440 --> 00:07:06,160
I'm searching for the remnants
of the city's old fortress walls
120
00:07:06,200 --> 00:07:09,200
via its oldest piazza,
Liberty Square,
121
00:07:09,240 --> 00:07:12,520
where I've found
something extraordinary.
122
00:07:12,560 --> 00:07:15,320
Ah, look at
this fantastic bronze map,
123
00:07:15,360 --> 00:07:18,440
or model, I should say,
of the centre of Timisoara.
124
00:07:18,480 --> 00:07:21,600
And what we can see
here in the pattern of
125
00:07:21,640 --> 00:07:26,400
the current street is
the original shape of the fortress,
126
00:07:26,440 --> 00:07:30,800
and I can see over here that there's
this arrow shape that's remaining.
127
00:07:30,840 --> 00:07:32,880
Now, that's the
later Habsburg fortress,
128
00:07:32,920 --> 00:07:35,480
and that's where
I'm meeting Victor Neumann.
129
00:07:54,440 --> 00:07:56,760
Victor Neumann is a prolific author
130
00:07:56,800 --> 00:07:59,920
on the history and
politics of eastern Europe,
131
00:07:59,960 --> 00:08:02,160
and lecturers at
the Western University
132
00:08:02,200 --> 00:08:04,520
here in Timisoara.
133
00:08:08,400 --> 00:08:10,760
Victor! Hi! Hi! Alice.
134
00:08:12,560 --> 00:08:15,000
Brilliant! Well, that's
arriving in style, isn't it?
135
00:08:15,040 --> 00:08:18,400
Pleased to meet you.
Absolutely lovely to meet you.
136
00:08:18,440 --> 00:08:22,240
So we're actually in part of
the old fortress here, aren't we?
137
00:08:22,280 --> 00:08:25,560
Yes, this is from 18th century.
138
00:08:25,600 --> 00:08:29,760
It was built by the Hapsburg Empire
139
00:08:29,800 --> 00:08:34,280
after they conquered the
city from the Ottomans.
140
00:08:34,320 --> 00:08:36,360
Shall we carry on
walking in this direction
141
00:08:36,400 --> 00:08:38,080
and carry on talking
about the Ottomans?
142
00:08:38,120 --> 00:08:40,560
Cos I want to understand
a little bit more about
143
00:08:40,600 --> 00:08:43,640
why this city was so
important to them.
144
00:08:43,680 --> 00:08:46,640
Because it's a strategic point.
145
00:08:46,680 --> 00:08:49,360
First of all, for military reasons.
Yeah.
146
00:08:49,400 --> 00:08:55,160
Secondly,
for new European perspectives.
147
00:08:55,200 --> 00:09:00,640
Because they like to learn
something from the Europeans.
148
00:09:00,680 --> 00:09:03,560
So when did Timisoara become
part of the Ottoman Empire?
149
00:09:03,600 --> 00:09:06,680
This is,
we're talking the 16th century?
150
00:09:06,720 --> 00:09:12,280
In 1552, and remain inside
the Ottoman Empire until 1716.
151
00:09:14,760 --> 00:09:16,640
So the walls we're
looking at here, then,
152
00:09:16,680 --> 00:09:19,120
these are not Ottoman,
they come a bit later?
153
00:09:19,160 --> 00:09:22,880
Yes, yes. They come in 18th century.
154
00:09:22,920 --> 00:09:25,200
This is a huge construction
155
00:09:25,240 --> 00:09:28,560
from the Austrian Empire
during 18th century.
156
00:09:28,600 --> 00:09:32,400
They destroyed
the Ottoman Empire citadel,
157
00:09:32,440 --> 00:09:34,840
and they reconstructed
completely the city.
158
00:09:34,880 --> 00:09:39,320
Probably it's one of
the very few cities destroyed
159
00:09:39,360 --> 00:09:41,760
in Europe completely
and reconstructed.
160
00:09:41,800 --> 00:09:43,320
Completely destroyed?
Completely destroyed.
161
00:09:43,360 --> 00:09:45,520
So they wipe out
all the Ottoman traces?
162
00:09:45,560 --> 00:09:48,200
Only very few,
very few monuments here,
163
00:09:48,240 --> 00:09:51,520
which survived from
the Ottoman Empire.
164
00:09:51,560 --> 00:09:54,600
In your book,
you've got these fantastic
165
00:09:54,640 --> 00:09:58,680
old drawings and maps of
the city and of the fortress
166
00:09:58,720 --> 00:10:01,320
during the time of the Ottomans.
167
00:10:01,360 --> 00:10:07,040
Maps from 16th century
and 17th century and 18th century.
168
00:10:07,080 --> 00:10:10,280
So this one here, this is
the medieval fortress that the...
169
00:10:10,320 --> 00:10:11,960
This is the medieval fortress.
170
00:10:12,000 --> 00:10:13,360
..the Ottomans took. Yes.
171
00:10:13,400 --> 00:10:16,240
And it looks like there's
a castle to the south here
172
00:10:16,280 --> 00:10:19,160
and then a heavily defended citadel,
it looks like.
173
00:10:19,200 --> 00:10:22,960
It's got another wall here,
double wall on the north side.
174
00:10:23,000 --> 00:10:26,880
Yes, yes. It was water
behind the fortress.
175
00:10:26,920 --> 00:10:29,040
So much water around... Yes, yes.
176
00:10:29,080 --> 00:10:31,000
And these are
all interconnected rivers.
177
00:10:31,040 --> 00:10:36,760
And different canals and channels
which exist behind the fortress.
178
00:10:36,800 --> 00:10:40,160
And presumably this is all quite
marshy, then, marshy low-lying land.
179
00:10:40,200 --> 00:10:42,360
Yes, yes. A large marsh. Yes, yes.
So quite difficult to...
180
00:10:42,400 --> 00:10:44,840
Right, right.
..attack this fortress.
181
00:10:44,880 --> 00:10:47,480
Yes, the Ottomans consider
very important the fortress,
182
00:10:47,520 --> 00:10:53,600
and permanently they have many
soldiers, many janitors inside.
183
00:10:53,640 --> 00:10:55,480
Janissaries. Janissaries,
Janissaries. Yeah, yeah.
184
00:10:55,520 --> 00:11:01,040
which defended the fortress
for 164 years in different battles.
185
00:11:01,080 --> 00:11:04,760
It was not only
the Hapsburg which like to conquer,
186
00:11:04,800 --> 00:11:06,720
there was also the princes
of Transylvania or...
187
00:11:06,760 --> 00:11:09,200
Yeah, they wanted it back.
..other aristocrat,
188
00:11:09,240 --> 00:11:12,840
they like to come back
to conquer the city.
189
00:11:12,880 --> 00:11:14,560
And then it
develops under the Habsburgs
190
00:11:14,600 --> 00:11:18,200
into this amazing starry fortress.
Yeah.
191
00:11:18,240 --> 00:11:20,800
And this is just one of the points,
isn't it, that we can still see.
192
00:11:20,840 --> 00:11:22,400
Right, right.
193
00:11:22,440 --> 00:11:24,760
I mean, they've got at
least two walls, if not three now.
194
00:11:24,800 --> 00:11:29,680
For construction, they need
to destroy the old fortress,
195
00:11:29,720 --> 00:11:31,920
the houses, the mosques... Yeah.
196
00:11:31,960 --> 00:11:35,920
..everything was
destroyed and reconstructed.
197
00:11:35,960 --> 00:11:37,600
And where are we? Are we here?
198
00:11:37,640 --> 00:11:39,520
Is this the bastion
we're standing at?
199
00:11:39,560 --> 00:11:41,240
Yes, this is the bastion yes,
yes, it's here.
200
00:11:41,280 --> 00:11:44,320
That's named after the Empress.
Yes, yes.
201
00:11:44,360 --> 00:11:46,240
So the Theresia Bastion.
202
00:11:50,160 --> 00:11:54,240
Empress Theresa was the ruler
of the Habsburg Dominions
203
00:11:54,280 --> 00:11:57,040
between 1740 and 1780,
204
00:11:57,080 --> 00:11:59,640
making her the sovereign of Hungary.
205
00:12:02,360 --> 00:12:06,160
Examples of multi-pointed
bastion fortresses like this
206
00:12:06,200 --> 00:12:08,800
appear right across
Europe at this time,
207
00:12:08,840 --> 00:12:11,240
from Italy to Scotland and beyond.
208
00:12:12,560 --> 00:12:14,800
This design emerged around the time
209
00:12:14,840 --> 00:12:17,760
that gunpowder
was introduced into battles.
210
00:12:17,800 --> 00:12:20,040
The pointed walls
prevent blind spots
211
00:12:20,080 --> 00:12:21,440
for those being attacked.
212
00:12:21,480 --> 00:12:24,480
You can see from every angle.
213
00:12:26,320 --> 00:12:30,360
The city authorities have
embraced the bastion fort symbol
214
00:12:30,400 --> 00:12:32,240
in the most impressive way.
215
00:12:39,520 --> 00:12:41,120
Look at that manhole cover.
216
00:12:41,160 --> 00:12:46,000
That has surely got to be inspired
by the Austrian refortification
217
00:12:46,040 --> 00:12:47,360
of the citadel,
218
00:12:47,400 --> 00:12:50,200
with that starburst of a fort,
219
00:12:50,240 --> 00:12:56,960
one of those points could
be the Theresea Bastion.
220
00:12:57,000 --> 00:13:00,080
It's not just the bastion that
they have in common with Scotland,
221
00:13:00,120 --> 00:13:02,040
it's the weather, too.
222
00:13:17,520 --> 00:13:19,800
But it doesn't
deter my detective work
223
00:13:19,840 --> 00:13:26,360
seeking out evidence
of the Ottoman Empire.
224
00:13:26,400 --> 00:13:29,440
There's another little
hint of Ottoman Timisoara,
225
00:13:29,480 --> 00:13:33,120
this tram stop is the
"Statia Printul Turcesc",
226
00:13:33,160 --> 00:13:35,560
The Turkish Prince station.
227
00:13:44,680 --> 00:13:46,480
It has been quite an education
228
00:13:46,520 --> 00:13:49,520
learning about
Timisoara's hidden Ottoman past,
229
00:13:49,560 --> 00:13:53,400
but tomorrow I discover that
not all has been lost in time.
230
00:14:10,200 --> 00:14:14,360
Romania may not be somewhere
you'd immediately associate
231
00:14:14,400 --> 00:14:16,360
with the Ottoman Empire,
232
00:14:16,400 --> 00:14:20,960
and yet, the Ottomans ruled
here for nearly two centuries.
233
00:14:21,000 --> 00:14:24,240
But it's as though they never
stepped foot in the place.
234
00:14:29,600 --> 00:14:32,240
In Liberty Square,
the locals and tourists
235
00:14:32,280 --> 00:14:35,240
come to relax and enjoy
the picturesque surroundings
236
00:14:35,280 --> 00:14:36,680
from its cafes.
237
00:14:36,720 --> 00:14:38,720
But almost 400 years ago,
238
00:14:38,760 --> 00:14:41,280
you could have also bathed here.
239
00:14:41,320 --> 00:14:44,800
There was an enormous Turkish baths,
known as the Grand Hammam.
240
00:14:47,360 --> 00:14:51,880
Virtually every trace of
Ottoman Timisoara has been erased,
241
00:14:51,920 --> 00:14:53,760
apart from this plaque,
242
00:14:53,800 --> 00:14:57,520
which refers to the erection of the
Turkish Baths in the 17th century.
243
00:15:01,040 --> 00:15:04,240
While there is nothing left
above ground of the baths,
244
00:15:04,280 --> 00:15:06,640
I have found some
other Ottoman relics.
245
00:15:09,760 --> 00:15:13,600
You get the feeling there has been
an effort to deliberately
246
00:15:13,640 --> 00:15:14,880
bury Ottoman history,
247
00:15:14,920 --> 00:15:16,400
well, that's
certainly the case here,
248
00:15:16,440 --> 00:15:19,760
look at these cannons.
249
00:15:19,800 --> 00:15:22,480
I'm lucky enough to be
meeting Adriana Gaspar,
250
00:15:22,520 --> 00:15:28,360
who is one of the few archaeologists
to have found Ottoman remains.
251
00:15:28,400 --> 00:15:29,880
Adriana. Hello.
252
00:15:29,920 --> 00:15:31,760
Hello!
253
00:15:31,800 --> 00:15:34,480
Oh, I am so pleased to meet you.
254
00:15:34,520 --> 00:15:37,880
Adriana is a pioneer
in Romanian archaeology.
255
00:15:37,920 --> 00:15:39,320
She is leading the country's new
256
00:15:39,360 --> 00:15:42,480
desire to discover
it's Ottoman past.
257
00:15:42,520 --> 00:15:43,680
You've been involved with many
258
00:15:43,720 --> 00:15:45,920
archaeological
excavations here in Timisoara,
259
00:15:45,960 --> 00:15:47,480
so what have you found,
260
00:15:47,520 --> 00:15:50,360
what kind of traces of
the Ottomans have you seen?
261
00:15:50,400 --> 00:15:53,640
From the Ottoman period
we have so much glazed pottery.
262
00:15:53,680 --> 00:15:54,920
Yeah.
263
00:15:54,960 --> 00:16:01,760
We have jugs with filters
because they are used for food.
264
00:16:01,800 --> 00:16:04,160
Another thing was the black ceramic.
265
00:16:04,200 --> 00:16:07,800
Right. We cannot find it
here before the Ottomans.
266
00:16:07,840 --> 00:16:11,840
Yeah, so there is a
definite change in material culture.
267
00:16:11,880 --> 00:16:12,960
Yes.
268
00:16:13,000 --> 00:16:15,800
The Ottomans in the first years,
269
00:16:15,840 --> 00:16:19,600
firstly they brought here the
soldiers, the garrison.
270
00:16:19,640 --> 00:16:21,200
Yeah, yeah.
271
00:16:21,240 --> 00:16:25,520
And they needed to
have an Islamic city.
272
00:16:26,560 --> 00:16:31,120
They moved the population from
the fortified city to the suburbs.
273
00:16:31,160 --> 00:16:33,720
So the people that were already
living here, they moved them out?
274
00:16:33,760 --> 00:16:37,560
Yes, and for being
an Islamic city,
275
00:16:37,600 --> 00:16:40,440
they need a place of worship.
276
00:16:40,480 --> 00:16:45,480
They transformed
the churches into mosques. Yep.
277
00:16:45,520 --> 00:16:48,200
And the other thing,
the most important thing for
278
00:16:48,240 --> 00:16:51,840
an Islamic city
was the presence of a bazaar.
279
00:16:51,880 --> 00:16:53,240
Yeah.
280
00:16:53,280 --> 00:16:57,480
This bazaar, for sure,
should be found
281
00:16:57,520 --> 00:17:01,960
very close to the public bath
and to the main mosque.
282
00:17:02,000 --> 00:17:03,680
Have you found any traces of it,
283
00:17:03,720 --> 00:17:06,040
on any of the excavations
you've been involved with?
284
00:17:06,080 --> 00:17:08,840
No. No? Unfortunately, we couldn't.
285
00:17:08,880 --> 00:17:12,440
And even the material,
which we found here,
286
00:17:12,480 --> 00:17:16,280
we couldn't find so many coins,
287
00:17:16,320 --> 00:17:18,440
which is very, very strange
288
00:17:18,480 --> 00:17:21,480
because it's in a
very crowded place. Yeah.
289
00:17:21,520 --> 00:17:24,000
Tell me what happens
after the Ottoman period,
290
00:17:24,040 --> 00:17:28,120
because the Austrians,
the Habsburgs, take Timisoara.
291
00:17:28,160 --> 00:17:31,840
So what happened to the Muslim
population here, then?
292
00:17:31,880 --> 00:17:35,680
They voluntarily left
or were they told to leave?
293
00:17:35,720 --> 00:17:38,560
No. No, they were somehow
forced when they left.
294
00:17:38,600 --> 00:17:39,720
Yeah.
295
00:17:39,760 --> 00:17:43,400
When the Ottomans left in 1716,
296
00:17:43,440 --> 00:17:47,280
the Austrians stayed,
so they said, you can go,
297
00:17:47,320 --> 00:17:51,440
it's not a problem,
but when they left the fortress,
298
00:17:51,480 --> 00:17:52,920
they killed them.
299
00:17:52,960 --> 00:17:55,320
Right. It was like that.
300
00:17:56,400 --> 00:17:58,440
And then under the Austrians,
301
00:17:58,480 --> 00:18:00,480
the city's completely redeveloped,
302
00:18:00,520 --> 00:18:06,160
and the Ottoman influence
disappears almost entirely.
303
00:18:06,200 --> 00:18:10,040
We have nothing standing
from the Ottoman period. No.
304
00:18:10,080 --> 00:18:14,200
Because the Austrians,
when they came here,
305
00:18:14,240 --> 00:18:18,160
they want to build
bigger structures,
306
00:18:18,200 --> 00:18:21,840
so they levelled the soil,
307
00:18:21,880 --> 00:18:28,760
and they started to build
a wall fortress in a star shape.
308
00:18:28,800 --> 00:18:33,680
Yes, yeah, and so
the points, the Theresia Bastion
309
00:18:33,720 --> 00:18:36,280
is one of the points of
that star-shaped fortress
310
00:18:36,320 --> 00:18:37,480
that we can still see. Yes.
311
00:18:37,520 --> 00:18:39,480
Yes, it's part of
this fortress, yes.
312
00:18:39,520 --> 00:18:41,160
So where are you digging next?
313
00:18:41,200 --> 00:18:44,480
Are you planning
anymore excavations?
314
00:18:44,520 --> 00:18:47,440
For now I don't know,
315
00:18:47,480 --> 00:18:50,960
but I have so much
material to deal with
316
00:18:51,000 --> 00:18:56,960
from an excavation that took
place at the end of 2019.
317
00:18:57,000 --> 00:19:03,200
We found a part of
the fortification.
318
00:19:03,240 --> 00:19:05,560
How many pieces of
pottery came out of that dig?
319
00:19:05,600 --> 00:19:06,760
1,000.
320
00:19:06,800 --> 00:19:08,080
1,000. Yes.
321
00:19:08,120 --> 00:19:09,720
That's gonna take a while.
322
00:19:09,760 --> 00:19:12,680
Yes, and clay pipes, for example,
323
00:19:12,720 --> 00:19:15,280
maybe there are 300. Yeah.
324
00:19:15,320 --> 00:19:18,920
And I have to deal
with the typology,
325
00:19:18,960 --> 00:19:20,280
to date them,
326
00:19:20,320 --> 00:19:24,520
and all this pottery,
to take it, to look at it,
327
00:19:24,560 --> 00:19:29,040
to draw it to reconstruct
the form of the pottery.
328
00:19:29,080 --> 00:19:30,720
That will take you a while.
329
00:19:30,760 --> 00:19:31,880
Yes.
330
00:19:38,520 --> 00:19:42,680
The Ottomans ruled
here for 164 years,
331
00:19:42,720 --> 00:19:47,240
but that phase of history
is hard to see in the modern city.
332
00:19:47,280 --> 00:19:50,200
With Adriana and other
archaeologists now focusing
333
00:19:50,240 --> 00:19:51,520
on this period, though,
334
00:19:51,560 --> 00:19:54,440
we will come closer
to understanding the influence
335
00:19:54,480 --> 00:19:57,680
and impact of the
Ottoman Empire in Romania.
336
00:20:07,480 --> 00:20:09,840
It's time for me to
say goodbye to Little Vienna
337
00:20:09,880 --> 00:20:11,920
and head to the final destination
338
00:20:11,960 --> 00:20:13,400
on my Ottoman adventure,
339
00:20:13,440 --> 00:20:15,200
Budapest in Hungary.
340
00:20:17,800 --> 00:20:19,600
IN ROMANIAN: A ticket to Budapest.
341
00:20:26,040 --> 00:20:27,600
IN ENGLISH:
That was my best Romanian,
342
00:20:27,640 --> 00:20:29,080
but she's talking to me in English.
343
00:20:31,320 --> 00:20:34,320
There should be a train leaving
344
00:20:34,360 --> 00:20:37,520
to Budapest in 20 minutes,
345
00:20:37,560 --> 00:20:40,120
so I'm hoping that this
isn't going to take too long.
346
00:20:42,160 --> 00:20:43,600
Er which platform?
347
00:20:43,640 --> 00:20:45,200
What? Which platform?
348
00:20:48,680 --> 00:20:50,040
Platform two.
349
00:20:50,080 --> 00:20:52,600
Platform two,
thank you very much. Merci.
350
00:21:03,880 --> 00:21:07,960
From Timisoara, it's a five
and a half hour train journey,
351
00:21:08,000 --> 00:21:10,440
160 miles northwest
across the border,
352
00:21:10,480 --> 00:21:12,640
to the Hungarian capital.
353
00:21:44,640 --> 00:21:46,480
I'm on my travels again.
354
00:21:49,720 --> 00:21:51,600
Ah, lovely.
355
00:21:51,640 --> 00:21:54,720
This is the last
train of the journey.
356
00:22:04,760 --> 00:22:07,440
There has been a
station here since 1857,
357
00:22:07,480 --> 00:22:11,680
and at one time, it was a
regular stop for the Orient Express.
358
00:22:17,200 --> 00:22:20,200
The original station
was bombed in World War II,
359
00:22:20,240 --> 00:22:23,400
and in 1976,
this new station was built,
360
00:22:23,440 --> 00:22:25,560
in the soviet style of the time.
361
00:22:32,280 --> 00:22:35,240
I'm travelling on Romania's
international tram network,
362
00:22:35,280 --> 00:22:38,720
which covers eight European
countries from Germany in the west
363
00:22:38,760 --> 00:22:40,720
to Moldova in the east,
364
00:22:40,760 --> 00:22:43,680
Poland in the north
and Bulgaria in the south.
365
00:22:48,680 --> 00:22:50,960
I've been looking
for half-hidden traces
366
00:22:51,000 --> 00:22:53,120
of the Ottoman Empire in Europe,
367
00:22:53,160 --> 00:22:55,960
and now I'm on the
last leg of my journey.
368
00:22:56,000 --> 00:22:59,600
I'm heading to yet
another European city
369
00:22:59,640 --> 00:23:04,000
that was under Ottoman rule
for well over 150 years,
370
00:23:04,040 --> 00:23:06,200
but I want to tie
up some loose ends.
371
00:23:06,240 --> 00:23:09,640
I want to understand how
an empire at its widest
372
00:23:09,680 --> 00:23:11,920
expanded not only into Europe
373
00:23:11,960 --> 00:23:15,360
but around the eastern
Mediterranean into Africa,
374
00:23:15,400 --> 00:23:19,960
and then I want to
understand how this vast, powerful,
375
00:23:20,000 --> 00:23:23,400
wealthy empire
finally came to an end
376
00:23:23,440 --> 00:23:26,840
and what the legacy of
the Ottoman Empire is today.
377
00:23:33,760 --> 00:23:37,960
Crossing international borders
by train is always intriguing.
378
00:23:38,000 --> 00:23:41,520
With another hundred miles
to go before I reach Budapest,
379
00:23:41,560 --> 00:23:43,360
I can't think of a
better way to discover
380
00:23:43,400 --> 00:23:46,240
how one country differs to the next.
381
00:23:58,560 --> 00:24:03,560
Well, you can see why the
Ottomans wanted this countryside,
382
00:24:03,600 --> 00:24:07,480
this great vast breadbasket,
383
00:24:07,520 --> 00:24:09,760
it's the Hungarian plain,
384
00:24:09,800 --> 00:24:13,160
and it is incredibly fertile
385
00:24:13,200 --> 00:24:17,760
and just full of
agricultural wealth.
386
00:24:20,440 --> 00:24:21,920
Look at that, it's just fields
387
00:24:21,960 --> 00:24:23,840
stretching as far
as the eye can see.
388
00:24:31,080 --> 00:24:33,840
The other benefit of
international train travel
389
00:24:33,880 --> 00:24:37,400
is the buffet car,
and I've got a book for company.
390
00:24:39,640 --> 00:24:41,800
Victor, from the fort at Timisoara,
391
00:24:41,840 --> 00:24:44,600
gave me the book he
wrote on the city's history.
392
00:25:20,120 --> 00:25:22,200
It might be the
last train of the day.
393
00:25:27,680 --> 00:25:30,720
But Walking through
Budapest's Keleti Station,
394
00:25:34,920 --> 00:25:37,480
It feels like I'm in an Opera House.
395
00:25:39,200 --> 00:25:42,960
These beautiful frescoes were
painted over 100 years ago.
396
00:25:44,440 --> 00:25:47,360
What an introduction to Budapest.
397
00:25:47,400 --> 00:25:50,200
I can't wait to
explore more tomorrow.
398
00:26:06,160 --> 00:26:08,400
I've reached the
last stop on my train journey
399
00:26:08,440 --> 00:26:11,360
across the Ottoman Empire.
400
00:26:11,400 --> 00:26:13,240
I'm in Budapest,
401
00:26:13,280 --> 00:26:15,520
which straddles the River Danube.
402
00:26:15,560 --> 00:26:17,960
It was once two cities,
Buda and Pest.
403
00:26:21,400 --> 00:26:26,600
Buda sits on the higher hills
on the west of the Danube
404
00:26:26,640 --> 00:26:30,120
and Pest on the flat plains
of the opposite bank.
405
00:26:33,200 --> 00:26:36,360
The Pest side is more
populated and industrial,
406
00:26:36,400 --> 00:26:39,720
with more housing,
shops and offices than Buda.
407
00:26:44,240 --> 00:26:47,040
The city sits on
a fault line between the Buda hills
408
00:26:47,080 --> 00:26:48,360
and the great plain,
409
00:26:48,400 --> 00:26:50,080
which has produced more natural
410
00:26:50,120 --> 00:26:53,200
underground springs
than any other city in the world.
411
00:26:59,200 --> 00:27:02,520
I'm crossing the river to find
a region in Buda called Kiraly.
412
00:27:06,160 --> 00:27:09,880
Somewhere here is a
450-year-old building,
413
00:27:09,920 --> 00:27:11,480
built by the Ottomans.
414
00:27:19,080 --> 00:27:22,120
These distinctive
copper-domed rooftops
415
00:27:22,160 --> 00:27:25,800
form part of the
Kiraly Turkish Baths.
416
00:27:25,840 --> 00:27:28,280
I'm told the baths
are due to be renovated,
417
00:27:28,320 --> 00:27:31,520
and they were last used
as recently as 2020.
418
00:27:41,000 --> 00:27:43,240
It's all shut up for now,
but these baths,
419
00:27:43,280 --> 00:27:46,640
the Kiraly Baths,
date back to the Ottoman period.
420
00:27:46,680 --> 00:27:49,040
And the Ottomans must have
been absolutely delighted
421
00:27:49,080 --> 00:27:51,040
to arrive here in Budapest,
in a place
422
00:27:51,080 --> 00:27:55,480
where more than 100 hot springs
bubble up from the ground.
423
00:28:08,760 --> 00:28:11,720
Still in Buda on
the west side of the Danube,
424
00:28:11,760 --> 00:28:15,480
I'm looking to get a better feel
for the city geography.
425
00:28:15,520 --> 00:28:17,240
These are the Castle Gardens,
426
00:28:17,280 --> 00:28:20,800
a 19th century complex
for visitors and locals,
427
00:28:20,840 --> 00:28:25,360
famous for their vantage
point across the whole city.
428
00:28:25,400 --> 00:28:28,320
A large section of the
gardens here had to be rebuilt
429
00:28:28,360 --> 00:28:30,920
in the 1950s
after heavy bombardment
430
00:28:30,960 --> 00:28:32,680
in the Second World War.
431
00:28:40,400 --> 00:28:44,880
Buda was conquered by
Suleiman the Magnificent in 1541,
432
00:28:44,920 --> 00:28:50,000
and then the Ottomans
ruled here for 158 years.
433
00:28:50,040 --> 00:28:52,280
At the close of the 17th century,
434
00:28:52,320 --> 00:28:55,040
the city was claimed
by a holy alliance
435
00:28:55,080 --> 00:28:57,560
of Christian European crusaders,
436
00:28:57,600 --> 00:29:01,920
to then become part of
the Austrian Hapsburg Empire.
437
00:29:01,960 --> 00:29:05,560
Unlike Timisoara, where
there's barely any physical traces
438
00:29:05,600 --> 00:29:06,840
of the Ottomans,
439
00:29:06,880 --> 00:29:11,080
there are some very well
preserved historic buildings here.
440
00:29:12,400 --> 00:29:15,400
One such complex is
a mausoleum that has
441
00:29:15,440 --> 00:29:18,480
a beautiful garden
and meandering pathways.
442
00:29:20,080 --> 00:29:22,400
It's the resting place of Gul Baba,
443
00:29:22,440 --> 00:29:24,800
and I'm hoping to
find out more about him
444
00:29:24,840 --> 00:29:27,000
from local tour guide Dalma Czimer.
445
00:29:32,680 --> 00:29:34,000
Dalma. Alice.
446
00:29:34,040 --> 00:29:37,080
Hello, hello,
447
00:29:37,120 --> 00:29:39,720
I have found you in
the lavender garden. Yes.
448
00:29:39,760 --> 00:29:42,280
This is gorgeous. Yes.
449
00:29:42,320 --> 00:29:46,360
And also you will find rose
and a magnolia garden,
450
00:29:46,400 --> 00:29:48,320
it is remembrance
451
00:29:48,360 --> 00:29:54,360
and an amazing symbol the
Turkish and ottoman era.
452
00:29:54,400 --> 00:29:57,440
Because Gul Baba means "roses",
it means the "father of roses".
453
00:29:57,480 --> 00:30:00,120
Yes, the father of the roses.
454
00:30:01,240 --> 00:30:04,760
Actually there is a history about
455
00:30:04,800 --> 00:30:11,360
the Ottoman Empire or this period
introduced this plant
456
00:30:11,400 --> 00:30:15,320
into the Hungarian area,
but it's actually not correct.
457
00:30:15,360 --> 00:30:16,760
There must have
been roses here before.
458
00:30:16,800 --> 00:30:18,960
Yes, it was in the Middle Ages.
459
00:30:19,000 --> 00:30:22,640
So who was Gul Baba?
Whys he important?
460
00:30:22,680 --> 00:30:26,760
He was arriving
with the Ottoman army
461
00:30:26,800 --> 00:30:30,360
at the end of the Conquer of Buda.
462
00:30:30,400 --> 00:30:32,440
So this is sixteenth century?
Absolutely.
463
00:30:32,480 --> 00:30:34,040
With Suleiman the Magnificent.
464
00:30:34,080 --> 00:30:40,560
Absolutely, and because
Buda was conquered in 1541,
465
00:30:40,600 --> 00:30:47,200
and this elderly man,
as we know, he joined the army
466
00:30:47,240 --> 00:30:54,160
as the head of the
Turkish monastery.
467
00:30:54,200 --> 00:30:56,080
Ah, so he's a dervish,
468
00:30:56,120 --> 00:30:57,680
he's a dervish
religious leader, then?
469
00:30:57,720 --> 00:30:58,920
Yes, yes.
470
00:30:58,960 --> 00:31:01,840
So this must have been one
of the first Ottoman tombs
471
00:31:01,880 --> 00:31:04,600
to have been built here.
472
00:31:04,640 --> 00:31:09,240
Actually, we don't
know exactly if this was
473
00:31:09,280 --> 00:31:11,280
the first one exactly,
474
00:31:11,320 --> 00:31:14,080
because not that far away,
475
00:31:14,120 --> 00:31:17,920
there was another tomb,
476
00:31:17,960 --> 00:31:21,960
where the monastery was placed,
477
00:31:22,000 --> 00:31:26,920
because the monetarises were
really close to the tombs, and...
478
00:31:26,960 --> 00:31:29,000
And that's it. Yes.
479
00:31:29,040 --> 00:31:32,400
So this is so familiar to
me now, this octagonal shape
480
00:31:32,440 --> 00:31:34,560
of tombs all the way from Turkey.
481
00:31:34,600 --> 00:31:40,240
Exactly, exactly.
And it is from Buda's marble.
482
00:31:40,280 --> 00:31:44,440
Can we go in the tomb?
Yeah, sure. Yeah?
483
00:31:48,360 --> 00:31:50,640
So what happened to this tomb
484
00:31:50,680 --> 00:31:53,320
after the Ottomans left or,
485
00:31:53,360 --> 00:31:56,560
you know,
after the city was reconquered?
486
00:31:56,600 --> 00:32:03,960
After that it was used by
a small cultural group as a chapel.
487
00:32:04,000 --> 00:32:06,120
Oh, right. Yeah, yeah. Yes.
488
00:32:06,160 --> 00:32:11,760
And they added some
windows to the tomb as well. Yeah.
489
00:32:11,800 --> 00:32:16,640
And we can see it over the door.
490
00:32:16,680 --> 00:32:18,000
So that's a later edition?
491
00:32:18,040 --> 00:32:19,400
Yes, yes, it was,
492
00:32:19,440 --> 00:32:24,720
but it is also incredibly late,
like 200 years.
493
00:32:26,840 --> 00:32:28,040
As you can see,
494
00:32:28,080 --> 00:32:32,560
you can find the symbol of
the tomb of Gul Babas here.
495
00:32:32,600 --> 00:32:35,320
So symbolic,
there's no remains in there.
496
00:32:35,360 --> 00:32:37,120
There is some remains in there,
497
00:32:37,160 --> 00:32:43,800
but last architectural
site was in the late '70s.
498
00:32:43,840 --> 00:32:49,120
And after they don't disturb in the
last restoration,
499
00:32:49,160 --> 00:32:51,720
the tomb and the remains.
500
00:32:51,760 --> 00:32:59,680
That's why we always referring as
a symbol, like, uh, a coffin.
501
00:32:59,720 --> 00:33:04,120
Because the idea is more important.
Yes, absolutely.
502
00:33:04,160 --> 00:33:08,120
And as you can see,
it wears the sacred green colour
503
00:33:08,160 --> 00:33:12,640
that is associated
with the dervishes
504
00:33:12,680 --> 00:33:16,240
and with the holy life of them.
Yeah.
505
00:33:16,280 --> 00:33:18,560
It's interesting, isn't it,
because this tomb kind of represents
506
00:33:18,600 --> 00:33:19,960
that history so well,
507
00:33:20,000 --> 00:33:21,760
you know, you've got
the dervishes coming
508
00:33:21,800 --> 00:33:23,600
with Suleiman the Magnificent,
509
00:33:23,640 --> 00:33:27,640
expanding his empire
and taking Budapest.
510
00:33:27,680 --> 00:33:31,600
Then Budapest
becoming Christian again,
511
00:33:31,640 --> 00:33:34,080
the chapel becomes Christian,
and now it's a monument,
512
00:33:34,120 --> 00:33:37,760
and its kind of gone back
to that original idea. Yeah.
513
00:33:37,800 --> 00:33:39,360
Absolutely.
514
00:33:44,720 --> 00:33:48,960
The beautifully restored tomb and
gardens of Gul Baba's mausoleum
515
00:33:49,000 --> 00:33:51,200
are firmly on the tourist trail,
516
00:33:51,240 --> 00:33:55,160
and guides like Dalma are in
a newly thriving industry.
517
00:33:57,320 --> 00:33:59,880
But as I near the end
of my own journey,
518
00:33:59,920 --> 00:34:03,120
I have plenty of
loose ends to tie up.
519
00:34:03,160 --> 00:34:06,240
This afternoon I will be meeting
an Ottoman historian
520
00:34:06,280 --> 00:34:09,160
who I'm hoping will
help complete the picture.
521
00:34:23,960 --> 00:34:27,080
I'm in in the Hungarian capital,
Budapest,
522
00:34:27,120 --> 00:34:30,160
and almost at the end
of my Ottoman adventure,
523
00:34:30,200 --> 00:34:34,160
learning about the rise and
fall of this formidable Empire.
524
00:34:37,040 --> 00:34:39,800
The best way to get
around Budapest is to hop on
525
00:34:39,840 --> 00:34:41,880
one of its picturesque yellow trams
526
00:34:41,920 --> 00:34:44,200
that have
been crisscrossing the city
527
00:34:44,240 --> 00:34:46,000
for more than 150 years.
528
00:34:53,440 --> 00:34:56,440
It's one of the biggest
tram networks in Europe...
529
00:35:05,720 --> 00:35:09,840
I'm heading to my final
destination and my final meeting.
530
00:35:15,200 --> 00:35:17,200
This is Buda Castle.
531
00:35:17,240 --> 00:35:20,640
It was a frontier fort
and then power base
532
00:35:20,680 --> 00:35:24,000
for the Ottoman
Empire's tenth Sultan,
533
00:35:24,040 --> 00:35:25,840
Suleiman the Magnificent.
534
00:35:25,880 --> 00:35:28,600
From here,
the dynasty ruled Hungary.
535
00:35:36,160 --> 00:35:40,840
It was in 1541 that
the Ottomans took control here.
536
00:35:40,880 --> 00:35:45,520
But that was 240 years after
the first sultan, Osman,
537
00:35:45,560 --> 00:35:49,560
won the Ottomans first battle
against Byzantines forces
538
00:35:49,600 --> 00:35:51,920
in northern Turkey.
539
00:35:51,960 --> 00:35:54,360
It was the start of
a mammoth campaign
540
00:35:54,400 --> 00:35:56,600
that saw them expand into Europe,
541
00:35:56,640 --> 00:35:59,000
north Africa and the Middle East.
542
00:36:00,240 --> 00:36:03,160
In a turbulent period,
some parts of the empire
543
00:36:03,200 --> 00:36:05,680
were lost and then regained.
544
00:36:05,720 --> 00:36:08,240
But it was the beginning
of the 20th century
545
00:36:08,280 --> 00:36:12,240
when the empire finally fell.
546
00:36:12,280 --> 00:36:14,840
The Ottomans were
evicted from this castle,
547
00:36:14,880 --> 00:36:17,360
and Budapest itself, in 1699,
548
00:36:19,160 --> 00:36:22,560
when they were defeated by the
Austrian Empire, the Habsburgs.
549
00:36:27,720 --> 00:36:33,240
The castle is now one of the biggest
tourist attractions in Hungary,
550
00:36:33,280 --> 00:36:36,160
and somewhere amidst
the hordes of tourists,
551
00:36:36,200 --> 00:36:38,600
I'm hoping to find Mostafa Minawi.
552
00:36:42,440 --> 00:36:46,000
An author and historian on all
aspects of the Ottoman Empire.
553
00:36:49,040 --> 00:36:50,480
Hi. Hi!
554
00:36:52,760 --> 00:36:54,680
Welcome to Budapest.
555
00:36:54,720 --> 00:36:56,520
Thank you very much.
556
00:36:56,560 --> 00:36:58,760
This is splendid. Isn't it?
557
00:36:58,800 --> 00:37:00,400
But it doesn't look very old.
558
00:37:00,440 --> 00:37:04,880
It's not. It is actually
kind of renovated to death,
559
00:37:04,920 --> 00:37:08,080
a lot of it has been torn down
and rebuilt quite a bit of times.
560
00:37:08,120 --> 00:37:10,160
It is pretty though, isn't it?
561
00:37:10,200 --> 00:37:12,400
It is very pretty. Very picturesque.
562
00:37:12,440 --> 00:37:13,600
Very much.
563
00:37:13,640 --> 00:37:15,360
Can we find any Ottoman?
564
00:37:15,400 --> 00:37:18,720
There is quite a little
bit of things here and there
565
00:37:18,760 --> 00:37:21,600
that was left or were rebuilt...
Yeah.
566
00:37:21,640 --> 00:37:24,920
..but otherwise, they've done
567
00:37:24,960 --> 00:37:28,000
a good job erasing any
Ottoman traces in Budapest,
568
00:37:28,040 --> 00:37:31,520
unfortunately, yes.
569
00:37:31,560 --> 00:37:36,960
It seems to be harking back to
a kind of glorified medieval past.
570
00:37:37,000 --> 00:37:39,440
Thats what its meant to be, I think.
571
00:37:39,480 --> 00:37:44,160
So, of course, it's in many ways
about glorifying Christianity
572
00:37:44,200 --> 00:37:47,120
as the last frontier
in front of the Ottomans.
573
00:37:47,160 --> 00:37:48,800
So the ottomans might not be here,
574
00:37:48,840 --> 00:37:52,520
but everything that you see
is in many ways in reaction
575
00:37:52,560 --> 00:37:57,000
to Ottoman occupation
during a time in which
576
00:37:57,040 --> 00:38:00,000
Buda was the frontier zone.
577
00:38:00,040 --> 00:38:01,560
Right on the edge.
Right on the edge.
578
00:38:06,200 --> 00:38:08,320
Buda Castle is a world heritage site
579
00:38:08,360 --> 00:38:11,960
that attracts
four million visitors a year,
580
00:38:12,000 --> 00:38:15,000
who come to see its imperial palace,
581
00:38:15,040 --> 00:38:18,400
military museum
and the Matthias church,
582
00:38:18,440 --> 00:38:20,640
all contained within its walls.
583
00:38:22,880 --> 00:38:25,240
Mostafa is based in New York,
584
00:38:25,280 --> 00:38:27,200
but as part of a research project,
585
00:38:27,240 --> 00:38:28,880
he lived in Budapest for a year
586
00:38:28,920 --> 00:38:31,760
and came to the
castle almost every day.
587
00:38:31,800 --> 00:38:34,040
He knows it well.
588
00:38:34,080 --> 00:38:36,920
Oh, wow, it is super crowded now.
589
00:38:36,960 --> 00:38:39,120
It's heaving.
590
00:38:39,160 --> 00:38:40,280
Hmm.
591
00:38:40,320 --> 00:38:42,680
I think I can take you around
other paths where there's
592
00:38:42,720 --> 00:38:46,040
a lot less people,
where we can actually talk
593
00:38:46,080 --> 00:38:47,880
and hear each other.
Yeah. What do you think?
594
00:38:47,920 --> 00:38:49,400
I think so. Yeah, let's do it.
595
00:38:49,440 --> 00:38:50,760
Let's see what we can find.
596
00:38:53,120 --> 00:38:55,160
Can I show you something? Yeah.
597
00:38:55,200 --> 00:38:56,720
See these cannons?
598
00:38:56,760 --> 00:38:58,040
These are Ottoman, are they?
599
00:38:58,080 --> 00:39:00,520
Well, some of them are,
some of them are not,
600
00:39:00,560 --> 00:39:03,440
but they definitely look Ottoman.
601
00:39:03,480 --> 00:39:06,200
They had their cannons
here facing that side of the city,
602
00:39:06,240 --> 00:39:08,200
where, of course,
they wanted to defend Buda
603
00:39:08,240 --> 00:39:10,360
for the longest time,
604
00:39:10,400 --> 00:39:13,440
and even they are
connected the founding story
605
00:39:13,480 --> 00:39:17,480
of the Ottomans
taking over Constantinople.
606
00:39:17,520 --> 00:39:20,440
A massive cannon was
forged to break through
607
00:39:20,480 --> 00:39:23,440
the walls of the city. Yeah.
608
00:39:23,480 --> 00:39:24,920
And, yeah, interestingly, actually,
609
00:39:24,960 --> 00:39:28,600
the person that forged
that cannon was Hungarian,
610
00:39:28,640 --> 00:39:32,840
that was brought into the
Ottoman Empire to do exactly that.
611
00:39:32,880 --> 00:39:35,720
His name was Orban.
612
00:39:35,760 --> 00:39:38,120
In many ways,
early Ottoman expansion
613
00:39:38,160 --> 00:39:40,600
and cannon go hand in hand.
614
00:39:40,640 --> 00:39:42,920
It was what gave
them the upper hand
615
00:39:42,960 --> 00:39:49,040
when they were able to use cannons
well before the Europeans did. Yeah.
616
00:39:49,080 --> 00:39:52,400
Just a couple of minutes' walk
from the thousands of tourists
617
00:39:52,440 --> 00:39:53,960
around the castle entrance
618
00:39:54,000 --> 00:39:57,760
and we are finding some hidden gems
from the city's rich past.
619
00:39:57,800 --> 00:39:59,560
There is something Ottoman here.
620
00:39:59,600 --> 00:40:01,400
There is definitely
something Ottoman here,
621
00:40:01,440 --> 00:40:04,560
and it is really
the only thing I could find,
622
00:40:04,600 --> 00:40:08,640
at least in the old city of Buda,
where this is any trace of
623
00:40:08,680 --> 00:40:10,400
the Ottomans having been here,
624
00:40:10,440 --> 00:40:12,360
and it's a new construction.
625
00:40:12,400 --> 00:40:15,080
There is nobody here,
it looks like a tomb,
626
00:40:15,120 --> 00:40:19,680
but in reality it
was put here in 1926.
627
00:40:19,720 --> 00:40:21,760
Right, OK, so it's more of
a memorial than an actual tomb.
628
00:40:21,800 --> 00:40:23,920
It's a memorial more than anything,
exactly.
629
00:40:23,960 --> 00:40:27,640
But it mimics a tomb or a
gravestone from the Ottoman period,
630
00:40:27,680 --> 00:40:32,200
this guy,
Vezir Abdurrahman Abdi Arnaut Pasha,
631
00:40:32,240 --> 00:40:35,920
means "Albania", so he is Albanian,
632
00:40:35,960 --> 00:40:38,960
and he was the last
governor of this province.
633
00:40:39,000 --> 00:40:40,440
It's quite interesting,
634
00:40:40,480 --> 00:40:44,120
because they actually go
through the effort of
635
00:40:44,160 --> 00:40:49,880
bringing a turban that
signifies the person being a vizier.
636
00:40:49,920 --> 00:40:53,320
They are usually for gravestones
of people that were important
637
00:40:53,360 --> 00:40:55,920
enough to have a
specific kind of dress code,
638
00:40:55,960 --> 00:40:59,080
particularly their
headdress becomes so symbolic.
639
00:40:59,120 --> 00:41:03,000
So the style of the turban
tells your status in society.
640
00:41:03,040 --> 00:41:05,120
Very much, yes.
And that's kept on the tomb.
641
00:41:05,160 --> 00:41:08,120
Absolutely, it follows you to death.
642
00:41:08,160 --> 00:41:10,400
I've seen this everywhere,
all of these grave markers
643
00:41:10,440 --> 00:41:11,600
with turbans on top.
644
00:41:11,640 --> 00:41:12,760
If you are an expert,
645
00:41:12,800 --> 00:41:13,920
and this is early modern period,
646
00:41:13,960 --> 00:41:15,720
if you were an expert
in what turbans were
647
00:41:15,760 --> 00:41:17,280
in early modern period,
648
00:41:17,320 --> 00:41:19,120
you would be able to
tell immediately
649
00:41:19,160 --> 00:41:20,680
what status that person is.
650
00:41:25,360 --> 00:41:27,520
On my journey from southeast Turkey
651
00:41:27,560 --> 00:41:30,000
through the Balkans into Hungary,
652
00:41:30,040 --> 00:41:34,040
I've really only seen
part of the Ottoman Empire.
653
00:41:34,080 --> 00:41:37,960
Here, the Balkans and further on
into Europe was the primary,
654
00:41:38,000 --> 00:41:40,040
kind of, focus of
the Ottoman Empire,
655
00:41:40,080 --> 00:41:41,440
at least at the beginning. Yeah.
656
00:41:41,480 --> 00:41:43,560
They go into Anatolia
a little later,
657
00:41:43,600 --> 00:41:45,200
lose it, win it back.
658
00:41:45,240 --> 00:41:48,800
But what we think of
today as the Arab world,
659
00:41:48,840 --> 00:41:50,840
or Arabic speaking majority world,
660
00:41:50,880 --> 00:41:53,800
was only incorporated
into the Ottoman Empire
661
00:41:53,840 --> 00:41:56,520
in 1516, 1517-18, so...
662
00:41:57,640 --> 00:42:01,120
Right OK,
so around the same time as Hungary.
663
00:42:01,160 --> 00:42:08,560
Indeed, yes, Hungary came in just
a few years later under Suleiman.
664
00:42:08,600 --> 00:42:12,600
Budapest was right at
the western limit of the empire.
665
00:42:12,640 --> 00:42:16,320
The Ottomans tried
to push further to take Vienna
666
00:42:16,360 --> 00:42:18,160
but failed.
667
00:42:18,200 --> 00:42:21,960
Their dreams of
expansion had stalled.
668
00:42:22,000 --> 00:42:23,960
They reach as far as Vienna.
669
00:42:24,000 --> 00:42:27,760
They never quite get Vienna.
It was a big disaster.
670
00:42:27,800 --> 00:42:32,000
This push to expand continuously,
always in a state of war,
671
00:42:32,040 --> 00:42:33,800
if you will, kind of stops.
672
00:42:35,280 --> 00:42:37,520
There are a couple
of crises that happen,
673
00:42:37,560 --> 00:42:41,640
there is a huge drought
that causes major issues,
674
00:42:41,680 --> 00:42:44,760
there is, of course,
the expansion of western powers
675
00:42:44,800 --> 00:42:48,240
into the new world,
but they survive them.
676
00:42:48,280 --> 00:42:51,600
So, it's, in many ways,
easy to see this kind of
677
00:42:51,640 --> 00:42:54,600
after the golden age Suleiman,
things starting to fall apart
678
00:42:54,640 --> 00:42:56,680
and then we think they
continue to fall apart
679
00:42:56,720 --> 00:42:58,160
all the way to the end,
680
00:42:58,200 --> 00:43:00,480
but the reality is
a lot more complex than that.
681
00:43:00,520 --> 00:43:03,000
But there is modernising.
Very much!
682
00:43:03,040 --> 00:43:05,840
There is hope for
a new start, a modern start
683
00:43:05,880 --> 00:43:10,320
for, really, a still very
multicultural empire.
684
00:43:10,360 --> 00:43:14,680
That all comes to a really
quick end during World War I.
685
00:43:14,720 --> 00:43:16,920
They had an alliance with Germany,
686
00:43:16,960 --> 00:43:19,160
which, in many ways,
ends up being there undoing.
687
00:43:19,200 --> 00:43:22,480
They choose the wrong side. Yeah.
688
00:43:22,520 --> 00:43:27,360
How does an Ottoman general go
through the First World War
689
00:43:27,400 --> 00:43:30,760
and then emerge as a leader
of a new Turkish republic?
690
00:43:30,800 --> 00:43:32,640
It's really amazing.
691
00:43:32,680 --> 00:43:34,800
Regardless of what you
think about Ataturk
692
00:43:34,840 --> 00:43:36,040
and his policies afterwards,
693
00:43:36,080 --> 00:43:37,800
it's really a fascinating story.
694
00:43:37,840 --> 00:43:39,880
He reasserts
695
00:43:39,920 --> 00:43:42,960
the presence of what
will eventually become Turkey,
696
00:43:43,000 --> 00:43:45,200
but the only way he could negotiate
697
00:43:45,240 --> 00:43:49,440
with those powers is by showing that
our military power is still there,
698
00:43:49,480 --> 00:43:52,720
and then we can negotiate
a different understanding
699
00:43:52,760 --> 00:43:55,120
of at least this
territory that becomes Turkey.
700
00:43:55,160 --> 00:43:58,680
Yeah. So Turkey, in many ways,
is a success story
701
00:43:58,720 --> 00:44:00,320
with a lot of issues, of course,
702
00:44:00,360 --> 00:44:02,960
but it is a success story
out of the Ottoman Empire
703
00:44:03,000 --> 00:44:05,360
if you think about it in terms
of an independent nation state
704
00:44:05,400 --> 00:44:08,000
that emerges from
the rubble of an empire.
705
00:44:08,040 --> 00:44:10,240
And that was just beautiful,
thank you very much.
706
00:44:10,280 --> 00:44:14,320
My pleasure.
707
00:44:14,360 --> 00:44:18,000
Mostafa has certainly helped
me to see the bigger picture
708
00:44:18,040 --> 00:44:21,640
and put the
Ottoman Empire in context.
709
00:44:21,680 --> 00:44:25,400
I feel like I have only
just scratched the surface,
710
00:44:25,440 --> 00:44:28,200
but I also feel very
privileged to have been able
711
00:44:28,240 --> 00:44:32,120
to meet and learn from
a whole host of experts,
712
00:44:32,160 --> 00:44:34,840
historians and archaeologists
713
00:44:34,880 --> 00:44:37,840
and to delve into our
current understanding
714
00:44:37,880 --> 00:44:39,800
of this fascinating empire.
715
00:44:42,560 --> 00:44:46,080
I've travelled over
1,600 miles by train,
716
00:44:46,120 --> 00:44:50,720
visited ten cities,
five countries and two continents.
717
00:44:52,400 --> 00:44:55,800
And I have one last journey planned,
718
00:44:55,840 --> 00:44:58,880
An evening scenic
cruise along the Danube.
719
00:45:00,480 --> 00:45:04,520
It's the perfect place to come
and reflect on my travels.
720
00:45:07,880 --> 00:45:11,280
For an empire that formed in 1299
721
00:45:11,320 --> 00:45:14,280
and lasted for 600 years,
722
00:45:14,320 --> 00:45:18,960
it's the most recent time
that sticks mostly in the mind.
723
00:45:19,000 --> 00:45:22,160
Its demise after the First World
War one means
724
00:45:22,200 --> 00:45:24,880
that its echoes
still resonate today.
725
00:45:29,120 --> 00:45:30,320
It's been fascinating
726
00:45:30,360 --> 00:45:34,240
to see how this empire
left its mark on cities,
727
00:45:34,280 --> 00:45:36,200
on culture and politics.
728
00:45:38,880 --> 00:45:42,480
And exploring this history
doesn't just improve our knowledge
729
00:45:42,520 --> 00:45:43,880
of the past,
730
00:45:43,920 --> 00:45:48,040
it helps us to
understand where we are now.
731
00:45:48,080 --> 00:45:50,920
And perhaps it will
even help to guide
732
00:45:50,960 --> 00:45:53,840
where we go in the future.
733
00:45:53,880 --> 00:45:58,920
As far as introductions go, this
has been one unforgettable journey.
734
00:46:27,760 --> 00:46:29,880
Subtitles by Red Bee Media
58849
Can't find what you're looking for?
Get subtitles in any language from opensubtitles.com, and translate them here.