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These are the user uploaded subtitles that are being translated: 1 00:00:04,400 --> 00:00:06,840 The beautiful coasts of Turkey and eastern Europe 2 00:00:06,880 --> 00:00:09,960 are visited by millions of us every year. 3 00:00:11,760 --> 00:00:16,440 But a few miles inland is a whole different world. 4 00:00:18,280 --> 00:00:25,000 One that is intoxicating, mysterious and steeped in history. 5 00:00:25,040 --> 00:00:27,680 This is such an incredible building, 6 00:00:27,720 --> 00:00:33,520 it was the largest church in the world for 1,000 years. 7 00:00:33,560 --> 00:00:37,000 The land where one of the most formidable empires, 8 00:00:37,040 --> 00:00:38,960 lasting six centuries 9 00:00:39,000 --> 00:00:42,480 and spanning continents was founded. 10 00:00:42,520 --> 00:00:43,880 Tesekkur ederim. 11 00:00:43,920 --> 00:00:45,080 I'm Alice Roberts, 12 00:00:45,120 --> 00:00:49,280 and I'm travelling hundreds of miles by train through Turkey 13 00:00:49,320 --> 00:00:50,440 and eastern Europe. 14 00:00:50,480 --> 00:00:52,480 Oh, wow, look at that. 15 00:00:52,520 --> 00:00:54,520 Lovely. 16 00:00:54,560 --> 00:00:57,520 I want to discover the fascinating story... 17 00:00:57,560 --> 00:00:58,760 Go. 18 00:00:58,800 --> 00:01:00,120 ..of the Ottoman Empire. 19 00:01:00,160 --> 00:01:01,840 Oh, no. SHE CHUCKLES 20 00:01:03,640 --> 00:01:06,720 This is the mausoleum of Osman himself, 21 00:01:06,760 --> 00:01:09,760 the sultan who started the Ottoman dynasty. 22 00:01:09,800 --> 00:01:12,760 Through it's distinctive architecture... 23 00:01:12,800 --> 00:01:14,560 Beautiful courtyard. 24 00:01:14,600 --> 00:01:16,320 ..it's historical leaders... 25 00:01:16,360 --> 00:01:20,440 The early Ottoman sultans had their eye on this prize, 26 00:01:20,480 --> 00:01:21,880 Constantinople. 27 00:01:21,920 --> 00:01:25,640 ..and remnants of its turbulent past. 28 00:01:25,680 --> 00:01:27,400 What a horrific monument. 29 00:01:33,040 --> 00:01:35,920 It's the final chapter of my Ottoman journey, 30 00:01:35,960 --> 00:01:39,560 and I'm travelling through Eastern Europe. 31 00:01:39,600 --> 00:01:42,280 In Romania, I go in search of the Ottoman relics 32 00:01:42,320 --> 00:01:45,520 that survived the purge at the end of the empire, 33 00:01:45,560 --> 00:01:48,360 where everything was destroyed, almost. 34 00:01:48,400 --> 00:01:50,920 Probably it's one of the very few cities 35 00:01:50,960 --> 00:01:53,280 destroyed in Europe completely. 36 00:01:53,320 --> 00:01:54,920 Completely destroyed? Completely destroyed. 37 00:01:54,960 --> 00:01:57,120 So they wipe out all the Ottoman traces? 38 00:01:57,160 --> 00:02:00,920 Only very few monuments here which survived. 39 00:02:00,960 --> 00:02:02,920 I then head to Budapest, 40 00:02:02,960 --> 00:02:04,480 the capital of Hungary, 41 00:02:04,520 --> 00:02:07,680 to come face-to-face with a dervish ruler. 42 00:02:07,720 --> 00:02:10,200 So who was Gul Baba, why was he important? 43 00:02:10,240 --> 00:02:13,800 He was arriving with the Ottoman army 44 00:02:13,840 --> 00:02:16,960 at the end of the conquer of Buda. 45 00:02:17,000 --> 00:02:19,120 So this is the sixteenth century... Absolutely. 46 00:02:19,160 --> 00:02:20,680 ..with Suleiman the Magnificent? 47 00:02:20,720 --> 00:02:22,200 Absolutely. Yeah. 48 00:02:22,240 --> 00:02:24,480 And at the very limit of the empire, 49 00:02:24,520 --> 00:02:26,200 at its western most point, 50 00:02:26,240 --> 00:02:28,800 I find out how it all came to an end... 51 00:02:28,840 --> 00:02:31,840 During World War I, they had an alliance with Germany, 52 00:02:31,880 --> 00:02:34,440 which in many ways ends up being there undoing. 53 00:02:34,480 --> 00:02:37,440 They chose the wrong side. Yeah. 54 00:02:37,480 --> 00:02:40,960 ..as I explore the Ottoman Empire by train. 55 00:02:59,000 --> 00:03:01,240 I've always loved travelling by train, 56 00:03:01,280 --> 00:03:03,360 no matter where I am in the world. 57 00:03:03,400 --> 00:03:06,280 It's a great way to experience the changing landscape 58 00:03:06,320 --> 00:03:07,880 and to meet people. 59 00:03:07,920 --> 00:03:11,560 Perhaps part of the attraction as well is that it's not always 60 00:03:11,600 --> 00:03:14,320 luxurious or straightforward, as I've learned 61 00:03:14,360 --> 00:03:19,600 travelling through the Balkans on my Ottoman adventure. 62 00:03:19,640 --> 00:03:23,840 Well, it's been a bit of a mission getting from Serbia to Romania. 63 00:03:23,880 --> 00:03:26,640 Not all the railway lines were open, 64 00:03:26,680 --> 00:03:33,280 but finally here I am in Romania and approaching Timisoara. 65 00:03:33,320 --> 00:03:38,280 I'm travelling on Romania's oldest railway line, built in 1854. 66 00:03:38,320 --> 00:03:44,000 It runs from the Serbian border into the city of Timisoara. 67 00:03:44,040 --> 00:03:46,000 This train may not be the most salubrious 68 00:03:46,040 --> 00:03:47,720 that I've taken on this adventure, 69 00:03:47,760 --> 00:03:50,360 and it's certainly not the longest, 70 00:03:50,400 --> 00:03:52,320 but it is rather charming. 71 00:04:09,440 --> 00:04:12,000 Since I set off on this Ottoman train trip, 72 00:04:12,040 --> 00:04:15,560 starting in Adana near the Syrian border in Turkey, 73 00:04:15,600 --> 00:04:18,920 I've travelled 1,400 miles. 74 00:04:18,960 --> 00:04:22,320 And, today, I am arriving in Timisoara. 75 00:04:22,360 --> 00:04:25,040 At first sight, an intriguing city, 76 00:04:25,080 --> 00:04:27,360 which was once an Ottoman stronghold 77 00:04:27,400 --> 00:04:29,800 and is now Europe's city of culture. 78 00:04:34,600 --> 00:04:36,360 The city has the largest array 79 00:04:36,400 --> 00:04:38,960 of architecturally diverse buildings, 80 00:04:39,000 --> 00:04:40,280 in all of Romania. 81 00:04:42,800 --> 00:04:46,040 From Baroque, to Neoclassical to Art Nouveau. 82 00:04:47,040 --> 00:04:51,640 These styles are represented across three major squares. 83 00:04:51,680 --> 00:04:54,600 Union Square... 84 00:04:54,640 --> 00:04:57,600 ..Victory Square... 85 00:04:57,640 --> 00:04:59,320 ..and Liberty Square... 86 00:05:01,040 --> 00:05:03,640 ..earning it the nickname Little Vienna. 87 00:05:07,200 --> 00:05:09,200 Back in the thirteenth century, 88 00:05:09,240 --> 00:05:12,200 Mongols and Tatars invaded the region, 89 00:05:12,240 --> 00:05:15,320 destroying much of Timisoara. 90 00:05:15,360 --> 00:05:18,800 But by 1316, the city had been rebuilt. 91 00:05:22,720 --> 00:05:27,720 Now, that is the oldest historic building in Timisoara. 92 00:05:27,760 --> 00:05:30,200 It dates back to before the Ottoman period, 93 00:05:30,240 --> 00:05:31,440 to the 15th century, 94 00:05:31,480 --> 00:05:33,400 it's called the Huniade Castle, 95 00:05:33,440 --> 00:05:36,680 and it was built by the Hungarian John Huniade. 96 00:05:36,720 --> 00:05:40,240 He was the Hungarian Count of Timisoara. 97 00:05:40,280 --> 00:05:42,800 He kept the Ottomans at bay, 98 00:05:42,840 --> 00:05:46,800 but in the 16th century, they came and took the city, 99 00:05:46,840 --> 00:05:49,120 and this castle became the residence of 100 00:05:49,160 --> 00:05:54,600 the Ottoman Governor, the Beylerbey. 101 00:05:54,640 --> 00:05:57,440 The castle has survived natural disasters, 102 00:05:57,480 --> 00:05:59,560 wars and uprisings. 103 00:05:59,600 --> 00:06:02,320 It became a museum in 1948, 104 00:06:02,360 --> 00:06:04,160 but it's closed today. 105 00:06:04,200 --> 00:06:08,240 It's been undergoing major renovations for nearly 20 years now. 106 00:06:10,600 --> 00:06:14,440 There is no doubt Timisoara has had a chequered past. 107 00:06:14,480 --> 00:06:16,320 And this monument bears testament 108 00:06:16,360 --> 00:06:19,320 to one of its most recent historic moments, 109 00:06:19,360 --> 00:06:22,320 the 1989 Romanian Revolution 110 00:06:22,360 --> 00:06:23,960 that began in this city 111 00:06:24,000 --> 00:06:26,920 when 4,000 people gathered in Victory Square 112 00:06:26,960 --> 00:06:30,080 to protest against the Communist regime, 113 00:06:30,120 --> 00:06:32,640 ultimately leading to its demise 114 00:06:32,680 --> 00:06:35,120 and that of its leader, Nicolae Ceausescu. 115 00:06:41,360 --> 00:06:43,840 This is the Bega Canal. 116 00:06:45,600 --> 00:06:47,600 The first canal built in Romania. 117 00:06:48,880 --> 00:06:51,160 During the 18th and 19th centuries, 118 00:06:51,200 --> 00:06:56,240 it was used to transport goods to Budapest 200 miles away. 119 00:07:01,440 --> 00:07:06,160 I'm searching for the remnants of the city's old fortress walls 120 00:07:06,200 --> 00:07:09,200 via its oldest piazza, Liberty Square, 121 00:07:09,240 --> 00:07:12,520 where I've found something extraordinary. 122 00:07:12,560 --> 00:07:15,320 Ah, look at this fantastic bronze map, 123 00:07:15,360 --> 00:07:18,440 or model, I should say, of the centre of Timisoara. 124 00:07:18,480 --> 00:07:21,600 And what we can see here in the pattern of 125 00:07:21,640 --> 00:07:26,400 the current street is the original shape of the fortress, 126 00:07:26,440 --> 00:07:30,800 and I can see over here that there's this arrow shape that's remaining. 127 00:07:30,840 --> 00:07:32,880 Now, that's the later Habsburg fortress, 128 00:07:32,920 --> 00:07:35,480 and that's where I'm meeting Victor Neumann. 129 00:07:54,440 --> 00:07:56,760 Victor Neumann is a prolific author 130 00:07:56,800 --> 00:07:59,920 on the history and politics of eastern Europe, 131 00:07:59,960 --> 00:08:02,160 and lecturers at the Western University 132 00:08:02,200 --> 00:08:04,520 here in Timisoara. 133 00:08:08,400 --> 00:08:10,760 Victor! Hi! Hi! Alice. 134 00:08:12,560 --> 00:08:15,000 Brilliant! Well, that's arriving in style, isn't it? 135 00:08:15,040 --> 00:08:18,400 Pleased to meet you. Absolutely lovely to meet you. 136 00:08:18,440 --> 00:08:22,240 So we're actually in part of the old fortress here, aren't we? 137 00:08:22,280 --> 00:08:25,560 Yes, this is from 18th century. 138 00:08:25,600 --> 00:08:29,760 It was built by the Hapsburg Empire 139 00:08:29,800 --> 00:08:34,280 after they conquered the city from the Ottomans. 140 00:08:34,320 --> 00:08:36,360 Shall we carry on walking in this direction 141 00:08:36,400 --> 00:08:38,080 and carry on talking about the Ottomans? 142 00:08:38,120 --> 00:08:40,560 Cos I want to understand a little bit more about 143 00:08:40,600 --> 00:08:43,640 why this city was so important to them. 144 00:08:43,680 --> 00:08:46,640 Because it's a strategic point. 145 00:08:46,680 --> 00:08:49,360 First of all, for military reasons. Yeah. 146 00:08:49,400 --> 00:08:55,160 Secondly, for new European perspectives. 147 00:08:55,200 --> 00:09:00,640 Because they like to learn something from the Europeans. 148 00:09:00,680 --> 00:09:03,560 So when did Timisoara become part of the Ottoman Empire? 149 00:09:03,600 --> 00:09:06,680 This is, we're talking the 16th century? 150 00:09:06,720 --> 00:09:12,280 In 1552, and remain inside the Ottoman Empire until 1716. 151 00:09:14,760 --> 00:09:16,640 So the walls we're looking at here, then, 152 00:09:16,680 --> 00:09:19,120 these are not Ottoman, they come a bit later? 153 00:09:19,160 --> 00:09:22,880 Yes, yes. They come in 18th century. 154 00:09:22,920 --> 00:09:25,200 This is a huge construction 155 00:09:25,240 --> 00:09:28,560 from the Austrian Empire during 18th century. 156 00:09:28,600 --> 00:09:32,400 They destroyed the Ottoman Empire citadel, 157 00:09:32,440 --> 00:09:34,840 and they reconstructed completely the city. 158 00:09:34,880 --> 00:09:39,320 Probably it's one of the very few cities destroyed 159 00:09:39,360 --> 00:09:41,760 in Europe completely and reconstructed. 160 00:09:41,800 --> 00:09:43,320 Completely destroyed? Completely destroyed. 161 00:09:43,360 --> 00:09:45,520 So they wipe out all the Ottoman traces? 162 00:09:45,560 --> 00:09:48,200 Only very few, very few monuments here, 163 00:09:48,240 --> 00:09:51,520 which survived from the Ottoman Empire. 164 00:09:51,560 --> 00:09:54,600 In your book, you've got these fantastic 165 00:09:54,640 --> 00:09:58,680 old drawings and maps of the city and of the fortress 166 00:09:58,720 --> 00:10:01,320 during the time of the Ottomans. 167 00:10:01,360 --> 00:10:07,040 Maps from 16th century and 17th century and 18th century. 168 00:10:07,080 --> 00:10:10,280 So this one here, this is the medieval fortress that the... 169 00:10:10,320 --> 00:10:11,960 This is the medieval fortress. 170 00:10:12,000 --> 00:10:13,360 ..the Ottomans took. Yes. 171 00:10:13,400 --> 00:10:16,240 And it looks like there's a castle to the south here 172 00:10:16,280 --> 00:10:19,160 and then a heavily defended citadel, it looks like. 173 00:10:19,200 --> 00:10:22,960 It's got another wall here, double wall on the north side. 174 00:10:23,000 --> 00:10:26,880 Yes, yes. It was water behind the fortress. 175 00:10:26,920 --> 00:10:29,040 So much water around... Yes, yes. 176 00:10:29,080 --> 00:10:31,000 And these are all interconnected rivers. 177 00:10:31,040 --> 00:10:36,760 And different canals and channels which exist behind the fortress. 178 00:10:36,800 --> 00:10:40,160 And presumably this is all quite marshy, then, marshy low-lying land. 179 00:10:40,200 --> 00:10:42,360 Yes, yes. A large marsh. Yes, yes. So quite difficult to... 180 00:10:42,400 --> 00:10:44,840 Right, right. ..attack this fortress. 181 00:10:44,880 --> 00:10:47,480 Yes, the Ottomans consider very important the fortress, 182 00:10:47,520 --> 00:10:53,600 and permanently they have many soldiers, many janitors inside. 183 00:10:53,640 --> 00:10:55,480 Janissaries. Janissaries, Janissaries. Yeah, yeah. 184 00:10:55,520 --> 00:11:01,040 which defended the fortress for 164 years in different battles. 185 00:11:01,080 --> 00:11:04,760 It was not only the Hapsburg which like to conquer, 186 00:11:04,800 --> 00:11:06,720 there was also the princes of Transylvania or... 187 00:11:06,760 --> 00:11:09,200 Yeah, they wanted it back. ..other aristocrat, 188 00:11:09,240 --> 00:11:12,840 they like to come back to conquer the city. 189 00:11:12,880 --> 00:11:14,560 And then it develops under the Habsburgs 190 00:11:14,600 --> 00:11:18,200 into this amazing starry fortress. Yeah. 191 00:11:18,240 --> 00:11:20,800 And this is just one of the points, isn't it, that we can still see. 192 00:11:20,840 --> 00:11:22,400 Right, right. 193 00:11:22,440 --> 00:11:24,760 I mean, they've got at least two walls, if not three now. 194 00:11:24,800 --> 00:11:29,680 For construction, they need to destroy the old fortress, 195 00:11:29,720 --> 00:11:31,920 the houses, the mosques... Yeah. 196 00:11:31,960 --> 00:11:35,920 ..everything was destroyed and reconstructed. 197 00:11:35,960 --> 00:11:37,600 And where are we? Are we here? 198 00:11:37,640 --> 00:11:39,520 Is this the bastion we're standing at? 199 00:11:39,560 --> 00:11:41,240 Yes, this is the bastion yes, yes, it's here. 200 00:11:41,280 --> 00:11:44,320 That's named after the Empress. Yes, yes. 201 00:11:44,360 --> 00:11:46,240 So the Theresia Bastion. 202 00:11:50,160 --> 00:11:54,240 Empress Theresa was the ruler of the Habsburg Dominions 203 00:11:54,280 --> 00:11:57,040 between 1740 and 1780, 204 00:11:57,080 --> 00:11:59,640 making her the sovereign of Hungary. 205 00:12:02,360 --> 00:12:06,160 Examples of multi-pointed bastion fortresses like this 206 00:12:06,200 --> 00:12:08,800 appear right across Europe at this time, 207 00:12:08,840 --> 00:12:11,240 from Italy to Scotland and beyond. 208 00:12:12,560 --> 00:12:14,800 This design emerged around the time 209 00:12:14,840 --> 00:12:17,760 that gunpowder was introduced into battles. 210 00:12:17,800 --> 00:12:20,040 The pointed walls prevent blind spots 211 00:12:20,080 --> 00:12:21,440 for those being attacked. 212 00:12:21,480 --> 00:12:24,480 You can see from every angle. 213 00:12:26,320 --> 00:12:30,360 The city authorities have embraced the bastion fort symbol 214 00:12:30,400 --> 00:12:32,240 in the most impressive way. 215 00:12:39,520 --> 00:12:41,120 Look at that manhole cover. 216 00:12:41,160 --> 00:12:46,000 That has surely got to be inspired by the Austrian refortification 217 00:12:46,040 --> 00:12:47,360 of the citadel, 218 00:12:47,400 --> 00:12:50,200 with that starburst of a fort, 219 00:12:50,240 --> 00:12:56,960 one of those points could be the Theresea Bastion. 220 00:12:57,000 --> 00:13:00,080 It's not just the bastion that they have in common with Scotland, 221 00:13:00,120 --> 00:13:02,040 it's the weather, too. 222 00:13:17,520 --> 00:13:19,800 But it doesn't deter my detective work 223 00:13:19,840 --> 00:13:26,360 seeking out evidence of the Ottoman Empire. 224 00:13:26,400 --> 00:13:29,440 There's another little hint of Ottoman Timisoara, 225 00:13:29,480 --> 00:13:33,120 this tram stop is the "Statia Printul Turcesc", 226 00:13:33,160 --> 00:13:35,560 The Turkish Prince station. 227 00:13:44,680 --> 00:13:46,480 It has been quite an education 228 00:13:46,520 --> 00:13:49,520 learning about Timisoara's hidden Ottoman past, 229 00:13:49,560 --> 00:13:53,400 but tomorrow I discover that not all has been lost in time. 230 00:14:10,200 --> 00:14:14,360 Romania may not be somewhere you'd immediately associate 231 00:14:14,400 --> 00:14:16,360 with the Ottoman Empire, 232 00:14:16,400 --> 00:14:20,960 and yet, the Ottomans ruled here for nearly two centuries. 233 00:14:21,000 --> 00:14:24,240 But it's as though they never stepped foot in the place. 234 00:14:29,600 --> 00:14:32,240 In Liberty Square, the locals and tourists 235 00:14:32,280 --> 00:14:35,240 come to relax and enjoy the picturesque surroundings 236 00:14:35,280 --> 00:14:36,680 from its cafes. 237 00:14:36,720 --> 00:14:38,720 But almost 400 years ago, 238 00:14:38,760 --> 00:14:41,280 you could have also bathed here. 239 00:14:41,320 --> 00:14:44,800 There was an enormous Turkish baths, known as the Grand Hammam. 240 00:14:47,360 --> 00:14:51,880 Virtually every trace of Ottoman Timisoara has been erased, 241 00:14:51,920 --> 00:14:53,760 apart from this plaque, 242 00:14:53,800 --> 00:14:57,520 which refers to the erection of the Turkish Baths in the 17th century. 243 00:15:01,040 --> 00:15:04,240 While there is nothing left above ground of the baths, 244 00:15:04,280 --> 00:15:06,640 I have found some other Ottoman relics. 245 00:15:09,760 --> 00:15:13,600 You get the feeling there has been an effort to deliberately 246 00:15:13,640 --> 00:15:14,880 bury Ottoman history, 247 00:15:14,920 --> 00:15:16,400 well, that's certainly the case here, 248 00:15:16,440 --> 00:15:19,760 look at these cannons. 249 00:15:19,800 --> 00:15:22,480 I'm lucky enough to be meeting Adriana Gaspar, 250 00:15:22,520 --> 00:15:28,360 who is one of the few archaeologists to have found Ottoman remains. 251 00:15:28,400 --> 00:15:29,880 Adriana. Hello. 252 00:15:29,920 --> 00:15:31,760 Hello! 253 00:15:31,800 --> 00:15:34,480 Oh, I am so pleased to meet you. 254 00:15:34,520 --> 00:15:37,880 Adriana is a pioneer in Romanian archaeology. 255 00:15:37,920 --> 00:15:39,320 She is leading the country's new 256 00:15:39,360 --> 00:15:42,480 desire to discover it's Ottoman past. 257 00:15:42,520 --> 00:15:43,680 You've been involved with many 258 00:15:43,720 --> 00:15:45,920 archaeological excavations here in Timisoara, 259 00:15:45,960 --> 00:15:47,480 so what have you found, 260 00:15:47,520 --> 00:15:50,360 what kind of traces of the Ottomans have you seen? 261 00:15:50,400 --> 00:15:53,640 From the Ottoman period we have so much glazed pottery. 262 00:15:53,680 --> 00:15:54,920 Yeah. 263 00:15:54,960 --> 00:16:01,760 We have jugs with filters because they are used for food. 264 00:16:01,800 --> 00:16:04,160 Another thing was the black ceramic. 265 00:16:04,200 --> 00:16:07,800 Right. We cannot find it here before the Ottomans. 266 00:16:07,840 --> 00:16:11,840 Yeah, so there is a definite change in material culture. 267 00:16:11,880 --> 00:16:12,960 Yes. 268 00:16:13,000 --> 00:16:15,800 The Ottomans in the first years, 269 00:16:15,840 --> 00:16:19,600 firstly they brought here the soldiers, the garrison. 270 00:16:19,640 --> 00:16:21,200 Yeah, yeah. 271 00:16:21,240 --> 00:16:25,520 And they needed to have an Islamic city. 272 00:16:26,560 --> 00:16:31,120 They moved the population from the fortified city to the suburbs. 273 00:16:31,160 --> 00:16:33,720 So the people that were already living here, they moved them out? 274 00:16:33,760 --> 00:16:37,560 Yes, and for being an Islamic city, 275 00:16:37,600 --> 00:16:40,440 they need a place of worship. 276 00:16:40,480 --> 00:16:45,480 They transformed the churches into mosques. Yep. 277 00:16:45,520 --> 00:16:48,200 And the other thing, the most important thing for 278 00:16:48,240 --> 00:16:51,840 an Islamic city was the presence of a bazaar. 279 00:16:51,880 --> 00:16:53,240 Yeah. 280 00:16:53,280 --> 00:16:57,480 This bazaar, for sure, should be found 281 00:16:57,520 --> 00:17:01,960 very close to the public bath and to the main mosque. 282 00:17:02,000 --> 00:17:03,680 Have you found any traces of it, 283 00:17:03,720 --> 00:17:06,040 on any of the excavations you've been involved with? 284 00:17:06,080 --> 00:17:08,840 No. No? Unfortunately, we couldn't. 285 00:17:08,880 --> 00:17:12,440 And even the material, which we found here, 286 00:17:12,480 --> 00:17:16,280 we couldn't find so many coins, 287 00:17:16,320 --> 00:17:18,440 which is very, very strange 288 00:17:18,480 --> 00:17:21,480 because it's in a very crowded place. Yeah. 289 00:17:21,520 --> 00:17:24,000 Tell me what happens after the Ottoman period, 290 00:17:24,040 --> 00:17:28,120 because the Austrians, the Habsburgs, take Timisoara. 291 00:17:28,160 --> 00:17:31,840 So what happened to the Muslim population here, then? 292 00:17:31,880 --> 00:17:35,680 They voluntarily left or were they told to leave? 293 00:17:35,720 --> 00:17:38,560 No. No, they were somehow forced when they left. 294 00:17:38,600 --> 00:17:39,720 Yeah. 295 00:17:39,760 --> 00:17:43,400 When the Ottomans left in 1716, 296 00:17:43,440 --> 00:17:47,280 the Austrians stayed, so they said, you can go, 297 00:17:47,320 --> 00:17:51,440 it's not a problem, but when they left the fortress, 298 00:17:51,480 --> 00:17:52,920 they killed them. 299 00:17:52,960 --> 00:17:55,320 Right. It was like that. 300 00:17:56,400 --> 00:17:58,440 And then under the Austrians, 301 00:17:58,480 --> 00:18:00,480 the city's completely redeveloped, 302 00:18:00,520 --> 00:18:06,160 and the Ottoman influence disappears almost entirely. 303 00:18:06,200 --> 00:18:10,040 We have nothing standing from the Ottoman period. No. 304 00:18:10,080 --> 00:18:14,200 Because the Austrians, when they came here, 305 00:18:14,240 --> 00:18:18,160 they want to build bigger structures, 306 00:18:18,200 --> 00:18:21,840 so they levelled the soil, 307 00:18:21,880 --> 00:18:28,760 and they started to build a wall fortress in a star shape. 308 00:18:28,800 --> 00:18:33,680 Yes, yeah, and so the points, the Theresia Bastion 309 00:18:33,720 --> 00:18:36,280 is one of the points of that star-shaped fortress 310 00:18:36,320 --> 00:18:37,480 that we can still see. Yes. 311 00:18:37,520 --> 00:18:39,480 Yes, it's part of this fortress, yes. 312 00:18:39,520 --> 00:18:41,160 So where are you digging next? 313 00:18:41,200 --> 00:18:44,480 Are you planning anymore excavations? 314 00:18:44,520 --> 00:18:47,440 For now I don't know, 315 00:18:47,480 --> 00:18:50,960 but I have so much material to deal with 316 00:18:51,000 --> 00:18:56,960 from an excavation that took place at the end of 2019. 317 00:18:57,000 --> 00:19:03,200 We found a part of the fortification. 318 00:19:03,240 --> 00:19:05,560 How many pieces of pottery came out of that dig? 319 00:19:05,600 --> 00:19:06,760 1,000. 320 00:19:06,800 --> 00:19:08,080 1,000. Yes. 321 00:19:08,120 --> 00:19:09,720 That's gonna take a while. 322 00:19:09,760 --> 00:19:12,680 Yes, and clay pipes, for example, 323 00:19:12,720 --> 00:19:15,280 maybe there are 300. Yeah. 324 00:19:15,320 --> 00:19:18,920 And I have to deal with the typology, 325 00:19:18,960 --> 00:19:20,280 to date them, 326 00:19:20,320 --> 00:19:24,520 and all this pottery, to take it, to look at it, 327 00:19:24,560 --> 00:19:29,040 to draw it to reconstruct the form of the pottery. 328 00:19:29,080 --> 00:19:30,720 That will take you a while. 329 00:19:30,760 --> 00:19:31,880 Yes. 330 00:19:38,520 --> 00:19:42,680 The Ottomans ruled here for 164 years, 331 00:19:42,720 --> 00:19:47,240 but that phase of history is hard to see in the modern city. 332 00:19:47,280 --> 00:19:50,200 With Adriana and other archaeologists now focusing 333 00:19:50,240 --> 00:19:51,520 on this period, though, 334 00:19:51,560 --> 00:19:54,440 we will come closer to understanding the influence 335 00:19:54,480 --> 00:19:57,680 and impact of the Ottoman Empire in Romania. 336 00:20:07,480 --> 00:20:09,840 It's time for me to say goodbye to Little Vienna 337 00:20:09,880 --> 00:20:11,920 and head to the final destination 338 00:20:11,960 --> 00:20:13,400 on my Ottoman adventure, 339 00:20:13,440 --> 00:20:15,200 Budapest in Hungary. 340 00:20:17,800 --> 00:20:19,600 IN ROMANIAN: A ticket to Budapest. 341 00:20:26,040 --> 00:20:27,600 IN ENGLISH: That was my best Romanian, 342 00:20:27,640 --> 00:20:29,080 but she's talking to me in English. 343 00:20:31,320 --> 00:20:34,320 There should be a train leaving 344 00:20:34,360 --> 00:20:37,520 to Budapest in 20 minutes, 345 00:20:37,560 --> 00:20:40,120 so I'm hoping that this isn't going to take too long. 346 00:20:42,160 --> 00:20:43,600 Er which platform? 347 00:20:43,640 --> 00:20:45,200 What? Which platform? 348 00:20:48,680 --> 00:20:50,040 Platform two. 349 00:20:50,080 --> 00:20:52,600 Platform two, thank you very much. Merci. 350 00:21:03,880 --> 00:21:07,960 From Timisoara, it's a five and a half hour train journey, 351 00:21:08,000 --> 00:21:10,440 160 miles northwest across the border, 352 00:21:10,480 --> 00:21:12,640 to the Hungarian capital. 353 00:21:44,640 --> 00:21:46,480 I'm on my travels again. 354 00:21:49,720 --> 00:21:51,600 Ah, lovely. 355 00:21:51,640 --> 00:21:54,720 This is the last train of the journey. 356 00:22:04,760 --> 00:22:07,440 There has been a station here since 1857, 357 00:22:07,480 --> 00:22:11,680 and at one time, it was a regular stop for the Orient Express. 358 00:22:17,200 --> 00:22:20,200 The original station was bombed in World War II, 359 00:22:20,240 --> 00:22:23,400 and in 1976, this new station was built, 360 00:22:23,440 --> 00:22:25,560 in the soviet style of the time. 361 00:22:32,280 --> 00:22:35,240 I'm travelling on Romania's international tram network, 362 00:22:35,280 --> 00:22:38,720 which covers eight European countries from Germany in the west 363 00:22:38,760 --> 00:22:40,720 to Moldova in the east, 364 00:22:40,760 --> 00:22:43,680 Poland in the north and Bulgaria in the south. 365 00:22:48,680 --> 00:22:50,960 I've been looking for half-hidden traces 366 00:22:51,000 --> 00:22:53,120 of the Ottoman Empire in Europe, 367 00:22:53,160 --> 00:22:55,960 and now I'm on the last leg of my journey. 368 00:22:56,000 --> 00:22:59,600 I'm heading to yet another European city 369 00:22:59,640 --> 00:23:04,000 that was under Ottoman rule for well over 150 years, 370 00:23:04,040 --> 00:23:06,200 but I want to tie up some loose ends. 371 00:23:06,240 --> 00:23:09,640 I want to understand how an empire at its widest 372 00:23:09,680 --> 00:23:11,920 expanded not only into Europe 373 00:23:11,960 --> 00:23:15,360 but around the eastern Mediterranean into Africa, 374 00:23:15,400 --> 00:23:19,960 and then I want to understand how this vast, powerful, 375 00:23:20,000 --> 00:23:23,400 wealthy empire finally came to an end 376 00:23:23,440 --> 00:23:26,840 and what the legacy of the Ottoman Empire is today. 377 00:23:33,760 --> 00:23:37,960 Crossing international borders by train is always intriguing. 378 00:23:38,000 --> 00:23:41,520 With another hundred miles to go before I reach Budapest, 379 00:23:41,560 --> 00:23:43,360 I can't think of a better way to discover 380 00:23:43,400 --> 00:23:46,240 how one country differs to the next. 381 00:23:58,560 --> 00:24:03,560 Well, you can see why the Ottomans wanted this countryside, 382 00:24:03,600 --> 00:24:07,480 this great vast breadbasket, 383 00:24:07,520 --> 00:24:09,760 it's the Hungarian plain, 384 00:24:09,800 --> 00:24:13,160 and it is incredibly fertile 385 00:24:13,200 --> 00:24:17,760 and just full of agricultural wealth. 386 00:24:20,440 --> 00:24:21,920 Look at that, it's just fields 387 00:24:21,960 --> 00:24:23,840 stretching as far as the eye can see. 388 00:24:31,080 --> 00:24:33,840 The other benefit of international train travel 389 00:24:33,880 --> 00:24:37,400 is the buffet car, and I've got a book for company. 390 00:24:39,640 --> 00:24:41,800 Victor, from the fort at Timisoara, 391 00:24:41,840 --> 00:24:44,600 gave me the book he wrote on the city's history. 392 00:25:20,120 --> 00:25:22,200 It might be the last train of the day. 393 00:25:27,680 --> 00:25:30,720 But Walking through Budapest's Keleti Station, 394 00:25:34,920 --> 00:25:37,480 It feels like I'm in an Opera House. 395 00:25:39,200 --> 00:25:42,960 These beautiful frescoes were painted over 100 years ago. 396 00:25:44,440 --> 00:25:47,360 What an introduction to Budapest. 397 00:25:47,400 --> 00:25:50,200 I can't wait to explore more tomorrow. 398 00:26:06,160 --> 00:26:08,400 I've reached the last stop on my train journey 399 00:26:08,440 --> 00:26:11,360 across the Ottoman Empire. 400 00:26:11,400 --> 00:26:13,240 I'm in Budapest, 401 00:26:13,280 --> 00:26:15,520 which straddles the River Danube. 402 00:26:15,560 --> 00:26:17,960 It was once two cities, Buda and Pest. 403 00:26:21,400 --> 00:26:26,600 Buda sits on the higher hills on the west of the Danube 404 00:26:26,640 --> 00:26:30,120 and Pest on the flat plains of the opposite bank. 405 00:26:33,200 --> 00:26:36,360 The Pest side is more populated and industrial, 406 00:26:36,400 --> 00:26:39,720 with more housing, shops and offices than Buda. 407 00:26:44,240 --> 00:26:47,040 The city sits on a fault line between the Buda hills 408 00:26:47,080 --> 00:26:48,360 and the great plain, 409 00:26:48,400 --> 00:26:50,080 which has produced more natural 410 00:26:50,120 --> 00:26:53,200 underground springs than any other city in the world. 411 00:26:59,200 --> 00:27:02,520 I'm crossing the river to find a region in Buda called Kiraly. 412 00:27:06,160 --> 00:27:09,880 Somewhere here is a 450-year-old building, 413 00:27:09,920 --> 00:27:11,480 built by the Ottomans. 414 00:27:19,080 --> 00:27:22,120 These distinctive copper-domed rooftops 415 00:27:22,160 --> 00:27:25,800 form part of the Kiraly Turkish Baths. 416 00:27:25,840 --> 00:27:28,280 I'm told the baths are due to be renovated, 417 00:27:28,320 --> 00:27:31,520 and they were last used as recently as 2020. 418 00:27:41,000 --> 00:27:43,240 It's all shut up for now, but these baths, 419 00:27:43,280 --> 00:27:46,640 the Kiraly Baths, date back to the Ottoman period. 420 00:27:46,680 --> 00:27:49,040 And the Ottomans must have been absolutely delighted 421 00:27:49,080 --> 00:27:51,040 to arrive here in Budapest, in a place 422 00:27:51,080 --> 00:27:55,480 where more than 100 hot springs bubble up from the ground. 423 00:28:08,760 --> 00:28:11,720 Still in Buda on the west side of the Danube, 424 00:28:11,760 --> 00:28:15,480 I'm looking to get a better feel for the city geography. 425 00:28:15,520 --> 00:28:17,240 These are the Castle Gardens, 426 00:28:17,280 --> 00:28:20,800 a 19th century complex for visitors and locals, 427 00:28:20,840 --> 00:28:25,360 famous for their vantage point across the whole city. 428 00:28:25,400 --> 00:28:28,320 A large section of the gardens here had to be rebuilt 429 00:28:28,360 --> 00:28:30,920 in the 1950s after heavy bombardment 430 00:28:30,960 --> 00:28:32,680 in the Second World War. 431 00:28:40,400 --> 00:28:44,880 Buda was conquered by Suleiman the Magnificent in 1541, 432 00:28:44,920 --> 00:28:50,000 and then the Ottomans ruled here for 158 years. 433 00:28:50,040 --> 00:28:52,280 At the close of the 17th century, 434 00:28:52,320 --> 00:28:55,040 the city was claimed by a holy alliance 435 00:28:55,080 --> 00:28:57,560 of Christian European crusaders, 436 00:28:57,600 --> 00:29:01,920 to then become part of the Austrian Hapsburg Empire. 437 00:29:01,960 --> 00:29:05,560 Unlike Timisoara, where there's barely any physical traces 438 00:29:05,600 --> 00:29:06,840 of the Ottomans, 439 00:29:06,880 --> 00:29:11,080 there are some very well preserved historic buildings here. 440 00:29:12,400 --> 00:29:15,400 One such complex is a mausoleum that has 441 00:29:15,440 --> 00:29:18,480 a beautiful garden and meandering pathways. 442 00:29:20,080 --> 00:29:22,400 It's the resting place of Gul Baba, 443 00:29:22,440 --> 00:29:24,800 and I'm hoping to find out more about him 444 00:29:24,840 --> 00:29:27,000 from local tour guide Dalma Czimer. 445 00:29:32,680 --> 00:29:34,000 Dalma. Alice. 446 00:29:34,040 --> 00:29:37,080 Hello, hello, 447 00:29:37,120 --> 00:29:39,720 I have found you in the lavender garden. Yes. 448 00:29:39,760 --> 00:29:42,280 This is gorgeous. Yes. 449 00:29:42,320 --> 00:29:46,360 And also you will find rose and a magnolia garden, 450 00:29:46,400 --> 00:29:48,320 it is remembrance 451 00:29:48,360 --> 00:29:54,360 and an amazing symbol the Turkish and ottoman era. 452 00:29:54,400 --> 00:29:57,440 Because Gul Baba means "roses", it means the "father of roses". 453 00:29:57,480 --> 00:30:00,120 Yes, the father of the roses. 454 00:30:01,240 --> 00:30:04,760 Actually there is a history about 455 00:30:04,800 --> 00:30:11,360 the Ottoman Empire or this period introduced this plant 456 00:30:11,400 --> 00:30:15,320 into the Hungarian area, but it's actually not correct. 457 00:30:15,360 --> 00:30:16,760 There must have been roses here before. 458 00:30:16,800 --> 00:30:18,960 Yes, it was in the Middle Ages. 459 00:30:19,000 --> 00:30:22,640 So who was Gul Baba? Whys he important? 460 00:30:22,680 --> 00:30:26,760 He was arriving with the Ottoman army 461 00:30:26,800 --> 00:30:30,360 at the end of the Conquer of Buda. 462 00:30:30,400 --> 00:30:32,440 So this is sixteenth century? Absolutely. 463 00:30:32,480 --> 00:30:34,040 With Suleiman the Magnificent. 464 00:30:34,080 --> 00:30:40,560 Absolutely, and because Buda was conquered in 1541, 465 00:30:40,600 --> 00:30:47,200 and this elderly man, as we know, he joined the army 466 00:30:47,240 --> 00:30:54,160 as the head of the Turkish monastery. 467 00:30:54,200 --> 00:30:56,080 Ah, so he's a dervish, 468 00:30:56,120 --> 00:30:57,680 he's a dervish religious leader, then? 469 00:30:57,720 --> 00:30:58,920 Yes, yes. 470 00:30:58,960 --> 00:31:01,840 So this must have been one of the first Ottoman tombs 471 00:31:01,880 --> 00:31:04,600 to have been built here. 472 00:31:04,640 --> 00:31:09,240 Actually, we don't know exactly if this was 473 00:31:09,280 --> 00:31:11,280 the first one exactly, 474 00:31:11,320 --> 00:31:14,080 because not that far away, 475 00:31:14,120 --> 00:31:17,920 there was another tomb, 476 00:31:17,960 --> 00:31:21,960 where the monastery was placed, 477 00:31:22,000 --> 00:31:26,920 because the monetarises were really close to the tombs, and... 478 00:31:26,960 --> 00:31:29,000 And that's it. Yes. 479 00:31:29,040 --> 00:31:32,400 So this is so familiar to me now, this octagonal shape 480 00:31:32,440 --> 00:31:34,560 of tombs all the way from Turkey. 481 00:31:34,600 --> 00:31:40,240 Exactly, exactly. And it is from Buda's marble. 482 00:31:40,280 --> 00:31:44,440 Can we go in the tomb? Yeah, sure. Yeah? 483 00:31:48,360 --> 00:31:50,640 So what happened to this tomb 484 00:31:50,680 --> 00:31:53,320 after the Ottomans left or, 485 00:31:53,360 --> 00:31:56,560 you know, after the city was reconquered? 486 00:31:56,600 --> 00:32:03,960 After that it was used by a small cultural group as a chapel. 487 00:32:04,000 --> 00:32:06,120 Oh, right. Yeah, yeah. Yes. 488 00:32:06,160 --> 00:32:11,760 And they added some windows to the tomb as well. Yeah. 489 00:32:11,800 --> 00:32:16,640 And we can see it over the door. 490 00:32:16,680 --> 00:32:18,000 So that's a later edition? 491 00:32:18,040 --> 00:32:19,400 Yes, yes, it was, 492 00:32:19,440 --> 00:32:24,720 but it is also incredibly late, like 200 years. 493 00:32:26,840 --> 00:32:28,040 As you can see, 494 00:32:28,080 --> 00:32:32,560 you can find the symbol of the tomb of Gul Babas here. 495 00:32:32,600 --> 00:32:35,320 So symbolic, there's no remains in there. 496 00:32:35,360 --> 00:32:37,120 There is some remains in there, 497 00:32:37,160 --> 00:32:43,800 but last architectural site was in the late '70s. 498 00:32:43,840 --> 00:32:49,120 And after they don't disturb in the last restoration, 499 00:32:49,160 --> 00:32:51,720 the tomb and the remains. 500 00:32:51,760 --> 00:32:59,680 That's why we always referring as a symbol, like, uh, a coffin. 501 00:32:59,720 --> 00:33:04,120 Because the idea is more important. Yes, absolutely. 502 00:33:04,160 --> 00:33:08,120 And as you can see, it wears the sacred green colour 503 00:33:08,160 --> 00:33:12,640 that is associated with the dervishes 504 00:33:12,680 --> 00:33:16,240 and with the holy life of them. Yeah. 505 00:33:16,280 --> 00:33:18,560 It's interesting, isn't it, because this tomb kind of represents 506 00:33:18,600 --> 00:33:19,960 that history so well, 507 00:33:20,000 --> 00:33:21,760 you know, you've got the dervishes coming 508 00:33:21,800 --> 00:33:23,600 with Suleiman the Magnificent, 509 00:33:23,640 --> 00:33:27,640 expanding his empire and taking Budapest. 510 00:33:27,680 --> 00:33:31,600 Then Budapest becoming Christian again, 511 00:33:31,640 --> 00:33:34,080 the chapel becomes Christian, and now it's a monument, 512 00:33:34,120 --> 00:33:37,760 and its kind of gone back to that original idea. Yeah. 513 00:33:37,800 --> 00:33:39,360 Absolutely. 514 00:33:44,720 --> 00:33:48,960 The beautifully restored tomb and gardens of Gul Baba's mausoleum 515 00:33:49,000 --> 00:33:51,200 are firmly on the tourist trail, 516 00:33:51,240 --> 00:33:55,160 and guides like Dalma are in a newly thriving industry. 517 00:33:57,320 --> 00:33:59,880 But as I near the end of my own journey, 518 00:33:59,920 --> 00:34:03,120 I have plenty of loose ends to tie up. 519 00:34:03,160 --> 00:34:06,240 This afternoon I will be meeting an Ottoman historian 520 00:34:06,280 --> 00:34:09,160 who I'm hoping will help complete the picture. 521 00:34:23,960 --> 00:34:27,080 I'm in in the Hungarian capital, Budapest, 522 00:34:27,120 --> 00:34:30,160 and almost at the end of my Ottoman adventure, 523 00:34:30,200 --> 00:34:34,160 learning about the rise and fall of this formidable Empire. 524 00:34:37,040 --> 00:34:39,800 The best way to get around Budapest is to hop on 525 00:34:39,840 --> 00:34:41,880 one of its picturesque yellow trams 526 00:34:41,920 --> 00:34:44,200 that have been crisscrossing the city 527 00:34:44,240 --> 00:34:46,000 for more than 150 years. 528 00:34:53,440 --> 00:34:56,440 It's one of the biggest tram networks in Europe... 529 00:35:05,720 --> 00:35:09,840 I'm heading to my final destination and my final meeting. 530 00:35:15,200 --> 00:35:17,200 This is Buda Castle. 531 00:35:17,240 --> 00:35:20,640 It was a frontier fort and then power base 532 00:35:20,680 --> 00:35:24,000 for the Ottoman Empire's tenth Sultan, 533 00:35:24,040 --> 00:35:25,840 Suleiman the Magnificent. 534 00:35:25,880 --> 00:35:28,600 From here, the dynasty ruled Hungary. 535 00:35:36,160 --> 00:35:40,840 It was in 1541 that the Ottomans took control here. 536 00:35:40,880 --> 00:35:45,520 But that was 240 years after the first sultan, Osman, 537 00:35:45,560 --> 00:35:49,560 won the Ottomans first battle against Byzantines forces 538 00:35:49,600 --> 00:35:51,920 in northern Turkey. 539 00:35:51,960 --> 00:35:54,360 It was the start of a mammoth campaign 540 00:35:54,400 --> 00:35:56,600 that saw them expand into Europe, 541 00:35:56,640 --> 00:35:59,000 north Africa and the Middle East. 542 00:36:00,240 --> 00:36:03,160 In a turbulent period, some parts of the empire 543 00:36:03,200 --> 00:36:05,680 were lost and then regained. 544 00:36:05,720 --> 00:36:08,240 But it was the beginning of the 20th century 545 00:36:08,280 --> 00:36:12,240 when the empire finally fell. 546 00:36:12,280 --> 00:36:14,840 The Ottomans were evicted from this castle, 547 00:36:14,880 --> 00:36:17,360 and Budapest itself, in 1699, 548 00:36:19,160 --> 00:36:22,560 when they were defeated by the Austrian Empire, the Habsburgs. 549 00:36:27,720 --> 00:36:33,240 The castle is now one of the biggest tourist attractions in Hungary, 550 00:36:33,280 --> 00:36:36,160 and somewhere amidst the hordes of tourists, 551 00:36:36,200 --> 00:36:38,600 I'm hoping to find Mostafa Minawi. 552 00:36:42,440 --> 00:36:46,000 An author and historian on all aspects of the Ottoman Empire. 553 00:36:49,040 --> 00:36:50,480 Hi. Hi! 554 00:36:52,760 --> 00:36:54,680 Welcome to Budapest. 555 00:36:54,720 --> 00:36:56,520 Thank you very much. 556 00:36:56,560 --> 00:36:58,760 This is splendid. Isn't it? 557 00:36:58,800 --> 00:37:00,400 But it doesn't look very old. 558 00:37:00,440 --> 00:37:04,880 It's not. It is actually kind of renovated to death, 559 00:37:04,920 --> 00:37:08,080 a lot of it has been torn down and rebuilt quite a bit of times. 560 00:37:08,120 --> 00:37:10,160 It is pretty though, isn't it? 561 00:37:10,200 --> 00:37:12,400 It is very pretty. Very picturesque. 562 00:37:12,440 --> 00:37:13,600 Very much. 563 00:37:13,640 --> 00:37:15,360 Can we find any Ottoman? 564 00:37:15,400 --> 00:37:18,720 There is quite a little bit of things here and there 565 00:37:18,760 --> 00:37:21,600 that was left or were rebuilt... Yeah. 566 00:37:21,640 --> 00:37:24,920 ..but otherwise, they've done 567 00:37:24,960 --> 00:37:28,000 a good job erasing any Ottoman traces in Budapest, 568 00:37:28,040 --> 00:37:31,520 unfortunately, yes. 569 00:37:31,560 --> 00:37:36,960 It seems to be harking back to a kind of glorified medieval past. 570 00:37:37,000 --> 00:37:39,440 Thats what its meant to be, I think. 571 00:37:39,480 --> 00:37:44,160 So, of course, it's in many ways about glorifying Christianity 572 00:37:44,200 --> 00:37:47,120 as the last frontier in front of the Ottomans. 573 00:37:47,160 --> 00:37:48,800 So the ottomans might not be here, 574 00:37:48,840 --> 00:37:52,520 but everything that you see is in many ways in reaction 575 00:37:52,560 --> 00:37:57,000 to Ottoman occupation during a time in which 576 00:37:57,040 --> 00:38:00,000 Buda was the frontier zone. 577 00:38:00,040 --> 00:38:01,560 Right on the edge. Right on the edge. 578 00:38:06,200 --> 00:38:08,320 Buda Castle is a world heritage site 579 00:38:08,360 --> 00:38:11,960 that attracts four million visitors a year, 580 00:38:12,000 --> 00:38:15,000 who come to see its imperial palace, 581 00:38:15,040 --> 00:38:18,400 military museum and the Matthias church, 582 00:38:18,440 --> 00:38:20,640 all contained within its walls. 583 00:38:22,880 --> 00:38:25,240 Mostafa is based in New York, 584 00:38:25,280 --> 00:38:27,200 but as part of a research project, 585 00:38:27,240 --> 00:38:28,880 he lived in Budapest for a year 586 00:38:28,920 --> 00:38:31,760 and came to the castle almost every day. 587 00:38:31,800 --> 00:38:34,040 He knows it well. 588 00:38:34,080 --> 00:38:36,920 Oh, wow, it is super crowded now. 589 00:38:36,960 --> 00:38:39,120 It's heaving. 590 00:38:39,160 --> 00:38:40,280 Hmm. 591 00:38:40,320 --> 00:38:42,680 I think I can take you around other paths where there's 592 00:38:42,720 --> 00:38:46,040 a lot less people, where we can actually talk 593 00:38:46,080 --> 00:38:47,880 and hear each other. Yeah. What do you think? 594 00:38:47,920 --> 00:38:49,400 I think so. Yeah, let's do it. 595 00:38:49,440 --> 00:38:50,760 Let's see what we can find. 596 00:38:53,120 --> 00:38:55,160 Can I show you something? Yeah. 597 00:38:55,200 --> 00:38:56,720 See these cannons? 598 00:38:56,760 --> 00:38:58,040 These are Ottoman, are they? 599 00:38:58,080 --> 00:39:00,520 Well, some of them are, some of them are not, 600 00:39:00,560 --> 00:39:03,440 but they definitely look Ottoman. 601 00:39:03,480 --> 00:39:06,200 They had their cannons here facing that side of the city, 602 00:39:06,240 --> 00:39:08,200 where, of course, they wanted to defend Buda 603 00:39:08,240 --> 00:39:10,360 for the longest time, 604 00:39:10,400 --> 00:39:13,440 and even they are connected the founding story 605 00:39:13,480 --> 00:39:17,480 of the Ottomans taking over Constantinople. 606 00:39:17,520 --> 00:39:20,440 A massive cannon was forged to break through 607 00:39:20,480 --> 00:39:23,440 the walls of the city. Yeah. 608 00:39:23,480 --> 00:39:24,920 And, yeah, interestingly, actually, 609 00:39:24,960 --> 00:39:28,600 the person that forged that cannon was Hungarian, 610 00:39:28,640 --> 00:39:32,840 that was brought into the Ottoman Empire to do exactly that. 611 00:39:32,880 --> 00:39:35,720 His name was Orban. 612 00:39:35,760 --> 00:39:38,120 In many ways, early Ottoman expansion 613 00:39:38,160 --> 00:39:40,600 and cannon go hand in hand. 614 00:39:40,640 --> 00:39:42,920 It was what gave them the upper hand 615 00:39:42,960 --> 00:39:49,040 when they were able to use cannons well before the Europeans did. Yeah. 616 00:39:49,080 --> 00:39:52,400 Just a couple of minutes' walk from the thousands of tourists 617 00:39:52,440 --> 00:39:53,960 around the castle entrance 618 00:39:54,000 --> 00:39:57,760 and we are finding some hidden gems from the city's rich past. 619 00:39:57,800 --> 00:39:59,560 There is something Ottoman here. 620 00:39:59,600 --> 00:40:01,400 There is definitely something Ottoman here, 621 00:40:01,440 --> 00:40:04,560 and it is really the only thing I could find, 622 00:40:04,600 --> 00:40:08,640 at least in the old city of Buda, where this is any trace of 623 00:40:08,680 --> 00:40:10,400 the Ottomans having been here, 624 00:40:10,440 --> 00:40:12,360 and it's a new construction. 625 00:40:12,400 --> 00:40:15,080 There is nobody here, it looks like a tomb, 626 00:40:15,120 --> 00:40:19,680 but in reality it was put here in 1926. 627 00:40:19,720 --> 00:40:21,760 Right, OK, so it's more of a memorial than an actual tomb. 628 00:40:21,800 --> 00:40:23,920 It's a memorial more than anything, exactly. 629 00:40:23,960 --> 00:40:27,640 But it mimics a tomb or a gravestone from the Ottoman period, 630 00:40:27,680 --> 00:40:32,200 this guy, Vezir Abdurrahman Abdi Arnaut Pasha, 631 00:40:32,240 --> 00:40:35,920 means "Albania", so he is Albanian, 632 00:40:35,960 --> 00:40:38,960 and he was the last governor of this province. 633 00:40:39,000 --> 00:40:40,440 It's quite interesting, 634 00:40:40,480 --> 00:40:44,120 because they actually go through the effort of 635 00:40:44,160 --> 00:40:49,880 bringing a turban that signifies the person being a vizier. 636 00:40:49,920 --> 00:40:53,320 They are usually for gravestones of people that were important 637 00:40:53,360 --> 00:40:55,920 enough to have a specific kind of dress code, 638 00:40:55,960 --> 00:40:59,080 particularly their headdress becomes so symbolic. 639 00:40:59,120 --> 00:41:03,000 So the style of the turban tells your status in society. 640 00:41:03,040 --> 00:41:05,120 Very much, yes. And that's kept on the tomb. 641 00:41:05,160 --> 00:41:08,120 Absolutely, it follows you to death. 642 00:41:08,160 --> 00:41:10,400 I've seen this everywhere, all of these grave markers 643 00:41:10,440 --> 00:41:11,600 with turbans on top. 644 00:41:11,640 --> 00:41:12,760 If you are an expert, 645 00:41:12,800 --> 00:41:13,920 and this is early modern period, 646 00:41:13,960 --> 00:41:15,720 if you were an expert in what turbans were 647 00:41:15,760 --> 00:41:17,280 in early modern period, 648 00:41:17,320 --> 00:41:19,120 you would be able to tell immediately 649 00:41:19,160 --> 00:41:20,680 what status that person is. 650 00:41:25,360 --> 00:41:27,520 On my journey from southeast Turkey 651 00:41:27,560 --> 00:41:30,000 through the Balkans into Hungary, 652 00:41:30,040 --> 00:41:34,040 I've really only seen part of the Ottoman Empire. 653 00:41:34,080 --> 00:41:37,960 Here, the Balkans and further on into Europe was the primary, 654 00:41:38,000 --> 00:41:40,040 kind of, focus of the Ottoman Empire, 655 00:41:40,080 --> 00:41:41,440 at least at the beginning. Yeah. 656 00:41:41,480 --> 00:41:43,560 They go into Anatolia a little later, 657 00:41:43,600 --> 00:41:45,200 lose it, win it back. 658 00:41:45,240 --> 00:41:48,800 But what we think of today as the Arab world, 659 00:41:48,840 --> 00:41:50,840 or Arabic speaking majority world, 660 00:41:50,880 --> 00:41:53,800 was only incorporated into the Ottoman Empire 661 00:41:53,840 --> 00:41:56,520 in 1516, 1517-18, so... 662 00:41:57,640 --> 00:42:01,120 Right OK, so around the same time as Hungary. 663 00:42:01,160 --> 00:42:08,560 Indeed, yes, Hungary came in just a few years later under Suleiman. 664 00:42:08,600 --> 00:42:12,600 Budapest was right at the western limit of the empire. 665 00:42:12,640 --> 00:42:16,320 The Ottomans tried to push further to take Vienna 666 00:42:16,360 --> 00:42:18,160 but failed. 667 00:42:18,200 --> 00:42:21,960 Their dreams of expansion had stalled. 668 00:42:22,000 --> 00:42:23,960 They reach as far as Vienna. 669 00:42:24,000 --> 00:42:27,760 They never quite get Vienna. It was a big disaster. 670 00:42:27,800 --> 00:42:32,000 This push to expand continuously, always in a state of war, 671 00:42:32,040 --> 00:42:33,800 if you will, kind of stops. 672 00:42:35,280 --> 00:42:37,520 There are a couple of crises that happen, 673 00:42:37,560 --> 00:42:41,640 there is a huge drought that causes major issues, 674 00:42:41,680 --> 00:42:44,760 there is, of course, the expansion of western powers 675 00:42:44,800 --> 00:42:48,240 into the new world, but they survive them. 676 00:42:48,280 --> 00:42:51,600 So, it's, in many ways, easy to see this kind of 677 00:42:51,640 --> 00:42:54,600 after the golden age Suleiman, things starting to fall apart 678 00:42:54,640 --> 00:42:56,680 and then we think they continue to fall apart 679 00:42:56,720 --> 00:42:58,160 all the way to the end, 680 00:42:58,200 --> 00:43:00,480 but the reality is a lot more complex than that. 681 00:43:00,520 --> 00:43:03,000 But there is modernising. Very much! 682 00:43:03,040 --> 00:43:05,840 There is hope for a new start, a modern start 683 00:43:05,880 --> 00:43:10,320 for, really, a still very multicultural empire. 684 00:43:10,360 --> 00:43:14,680 That all comes to a really quick end during World War I. 685 00:43:14,720 --> 00:43:16,920 They had an alliance with Germany, 686 00:43:16,960 --> 00:43:19,160 which, in many ways, ends up being there undoing. 687 00:43:19,200 --> 00:43:22,480 They choose the wrong side. Yeah. 688 00:43:22,520 --> 00:43:27,360 How does an Ottoman general go through the First World War 689 00:43:27,400 --> 00:43:30,760 and then emerge as a leader of a new Turkish republic? 690 00:43:30,800 --> 00:43:32,640 It's really amazing. 691 00:43:32,680 --> 00:43:34,800 Regardless of what you think about Ataturk 692 00:43:34,840 --> 00:43:36,040 and his policies afterwards, 693 00:43:36,080 --> 00:43:37,800 it's really a fascinating story. 694 00:43:37,840 --> 00:43:39,880 He reasserts 695 00:43:39,920 --> 00:43:42,960 the presence of what will eventually become Turkey, 696 00:43:43,000 --> 00:43:45,200 but the only way he could negotiate 697 00:43:45,240 --> 00:43:49,440 with those powers is by showing that our military power is still there, 698 00:43:49,480 --> 00:43:52,720 and then we can negotiate a different understanding 699 00:43:52,760 --> 00:43:55,120 of at least this territory that becomes Turkey. 700 00:43:55,160 --> 00:43:58,680 Yeah. So Turkey, in many ways, is a success story 701 00:43:58,720 --> 00:44:00,320 with a lot of issues, of course, 702 00:44:00,360 --> 00:44:02,960 but it is a success story out of the Ottoman Empire 703 00:44:03,000 --> 00:44:05,360 if you think about it in terms of an independent nation state 704 00:44:05,400 --> 00:44:08,000 that emerges from the rubble of an empire. 705 00:44:08,040 --> 00:44:10,240 And that was just beautiful, thank you very much. 706 00:44:10,280 --> 00:44:14,320 My pleasure. 707 00:44:14,360 --> 00:44:18,000 Mostafa has certainly helped me to see the bigger picture 708 00:44:18,040 --> 00:44:21,640 and put the Ottoman Empire in context. 709 00:44:21,680 --> 00:44:25,400 I feel like I have only just scratched the surface, 710 00:44:25,440 --> 00:44:28,200 but I also feel very privileged to have been able 711 00:44:28,240 --> 00:44:32,120 to meet and learn from a whole host of experts, 712 00:44:32,160 --> 00:44:34,840 historians and archaeologists 713 00:44:34,880 --> 00:44:37,840 and to delve into our current understanding 714 00:44:37,880 --> 00:44:39,800 of this fascinating empire. 715 00:44:42,560 --> 00:44:46,080 I've travelled over 1,600 miles by train, 716 00:44:46,120 --> 00:44:50,720 visited ten cities, five countries and two continents. 717 00:44:52,400 --> 00:44:55,800 And I have one last journey planned, 718 00:44:55,840 --> 00:44:58,880 An evening scenic cruise along the Danube. 719 00:45:00,480 --> 00:45:04,520 It's the perfect place to come and reflect on my travels. 720 00:45:07,880 --> 00:45:11,280 For an empire that formed in 1299 721 00:45:11,320 --> 00:45:14,280 and lasted for 600 years, 722 00:45:14,320 --> 00:45:18,960 it's the most recent time that sticks mostly in the mind. 723 00:45:19,000 --> 00:45:22,160 Its demise after the First World War one means 724 00:45:22,200 --> 00:45:24,880 that its echoes still resonate today. 725 00:45:29,120 --> 00:45:30,320 It's been fascinating 726 00:45:30,360 --> 00:45:34,240 to see how this empire left its mark on cities, 727 00:45:34,280 --> 00:45:36,200 on culture and politics. 728 00:45:38,880 --> 00:45:42,480 And exploring this history doesn't just improve our knowledge 729 00:45:42,520 --> 00:45:43,880 of the past, 730 00:45:43,920 --> 00:45:48,040 it helps us to understand where we are now. 731 00:45:48,080 --> 00:45:50,920 And perhaps it will even help to guide 732 00:45:50,960 --> 00:45:53,840 where we go in the future. 733 00:45:53,880 --> 00:45:58,920 As far as introductions go, this has been one unforgettable journey. 734 00:46:27,760 --> 00:46:29,880 Subtitles by Red Bee Media 58849

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