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Turkey's golden coastline
stretches 5,000 miles,
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attracting 40 million tourists
every year.
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But a few miles inland is
a whole different world...
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..one that is intoxicating,
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mysterious
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and steeped in history.
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This is such an incredible building.
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It was the largest church
in the world
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for 1,000 years.
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The land where one of
the most formidable empires,
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lasting six centuries and spanning
continents, was founded.
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Tesekkur ederim.
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I'm Alice Roberts and
I'm travelling hundreds of miles
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by train through Turkey
and Eastern Europe.
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Oh, wow, look at that.
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Lovely!
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I want to discover
the fascinating story...
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Go.
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..of the Ottoman Empire.
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LAUGHTER
Oh, no!
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This is the mausoleum
of Osman himself,
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the sultan who started
the Ottoman dynasty.
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Through its distinctive
architecture...
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Beautiful courtyard.
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..it's historic leaders...
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The early Ottoman sultans had their
eye on this prize, Constantinople.
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..and remnants of
its turbulent past.
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What a horrific monument.
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I begin the first leg of my journey
in south-east Turkey, where I
explore
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the importance of Islam
to the Ottoman Empire
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and scale the dizzy heights
of a dynastic legacy.
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Oh, wow, look at that view!
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Wow. We're right over Adana,
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which is a huge city.
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I discover more about
the trade routes that helped
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the Ottomans hold on
to their wealth and power...
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A very strategic and very important
point for the silk route...
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It's on the silk roads. Yeah.
It's on that important...
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And it still is.
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..and learn the sacred meaning
behind the mesmerising dance
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of the whirling dervishes.
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I haven't seen the
whirling dervishes before.
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Oh, OK. This is your first time?
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It is.
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It's totally magical. Yeah.
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It is... It's like a kind of
meditation.
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What I've always found
fascinating about Turkey
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is its rich mix of cultures,
which isn't surprising
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given its colourful history.
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In the 13th century this area
was trapped in a power struggle
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between the Byzantine Empire
to the west
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and Mongol forces to
the north and the east.
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Over time, Mongol invasions had led
to the displacement of
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Turkish tribes from Central Asia.
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They'd been pushed
further and further west,
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and in the late 13th century
a Turkish warlord came to power,
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seizing new territory from
the Byzantine Empire.
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His name was Osman.
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He was the founder of
the Ottoman dynasty.
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His descendants would go on
to create one of
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the largest empires
the world has ever seen,
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and it lasted for more than
six centuries.
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I want to find out more about
this empire, how it emerged
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and grew, its culture
and its legacy.
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I'm exploring the Ottoman Empire
by train.
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My journey starts in Adana,
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the gateway into Turkey
and Europe from Asia.
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Heading west, I cover 800 miles
towards Istanbul.
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Then I follow the Ottoman trail
up into the Balkans
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and then Hungary,
ending at Budapest,
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at the westernmost tip
of the empire.
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The Ottoman Empire started near
the city of Bursa in 1299.
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Over 200 years it consumed
Greece, Eastern Europe,
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North Africa and western Asia,
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reaching its peak in
the 16th century,
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covering an area that now
includes 70 countries.
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By the end of the First World War,
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it had shrunk dramatically.
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This is when the Ottoman Empire
ended and Turkey became a republic.
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So this lovely lady hopped off
at the last platform
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to fill her kettle up, and she's now
plugged her kettle in
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and she's making coffee
and she's offered me some.
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I've never seen anyone boil
a kettle on a train before.
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Is it ready?
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Ah!
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Thank you.
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So kind! Thank you.
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That's enough, that's enough.
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Thank you. Tesekkur.
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Tesekkur ederim. You are welcome.
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Thank you.
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That's so kind of you. Thank you.
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Making coffee on a train!
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Who else wants some coffee?
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This lady's going to have
some coffee.
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It's my first time in Adana,
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one of the largest cities
in Turkey.
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And you can see the Ottoman
influence right away in
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the city's striking railway station.
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It was built in the early 1900s
in the last decade of the empire,
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embracing the classical 16th century
Ottoman architectural design
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with its Islamic pointed horseshoe
windows and two-colour stonework.
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Adana - this is a name
which has been used
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for at least 4,000 years.
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It's there on ancient
Hittite tablets.
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It's mentioned in the Bible.
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It's mentioned in
the Epic of Gilgamesh.
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It's mentioned in Homer's Iliad.
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And today it's a massive city,
home to nearly two million people.
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DRUMMING AND SINGING
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Adana is just 22 miles
from the coast,
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but the city's importance to
the Ottoman Empire lay in
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its position on one of the main
trade routes between
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Asia and Europe.
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With its crucial location,
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Adana became one of the empire's
most prosperous cities.
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Today it's a sprawling mix
of old and new.
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But I'm here to explore
the historic Ottoman old town.
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My first port of call is hidden
behind this impressive gate,
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Adana's oldest mosque.
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This is a typical Ottoman
religious complex,
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including a madrasah -
or Islamic School -
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consisting of a classroom
and cells or small bedrooms
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for students, surrounding
a large courtyard.
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These learning centres
of learning were banned when
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Turkey became a republic,
but were hugely important to
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the empire's religious
way of life.
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You come off the busy streets
of Adana into this space
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and you're straight back
into the Middle Ages.
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This is the Yag Camii,
the Yag Mosque.
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But in fact its history goes back
much earlier.
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It was originally built as
a church when Adana was part of
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the Armenian Kingdom of Cilicia,
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and that was from the 11th to
the mid-14th centuries.
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The church is somewhere there,
underneath this later architecture.
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It has been added to and converted
into a mosque with this courtyard,
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and actually "yag" means "oil"
in Turkish, so it's become known
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as the Oil Mosque, and then there's
an idea that people were selling
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olive oil maybe just outside it.
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So we've got, encapsulated in
this architecture here
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but also in the name of the place,
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a bit of the medieval
history of Adana.
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From the brash sunlight of
the courtyard,
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it's a sharp contrast stepping
into the cool contemplative
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prayer room...
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..where, in typical Ottoman style,
there's a large space
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for praying split
into safs, or rows,
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of arcaded porticos
covered by small domes.
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The materials are sandstone and
limestone from nearby quarries,
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00:10:00,840 --> 00:10:04,200
and the layout of the room is
designed so that worshippers sit in
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a row between the columns.
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So this is the oldest part
of this building.
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This is the original
medieval church,
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and you can see details
on the pilasters.
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It looks like they've been
hacked away a bit,
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but you can still see some of that.
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What you can't see is any of
the paintings, which must have
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decorated the walls at
the point it was being used
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for Christian worship.
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At that time the focus of worship
would've been in the east -
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that's where the altar
would have been -
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in the apse, in the curved end
of the church.
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Then, when it becomes transformed
into a mosque, this western end
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of the building is taken down
and the mosque is built,
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reusing lots of stone.
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You can see all of those pillars
are different.
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Some of them are marble,
some of them are granite.
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They're all different shapes
and sizes.
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And now the focus of worship
has also changed.
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It was in the east
when it was Christian,
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and now it's in the south
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because Muslims have to pray
facing Mecca.
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It's intriguing trying to imagine
the city of Adana at
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the height of the Ottoman Empire,
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encircled by fortified stone walls,
and within it -
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just like today -
would be the bazaar,
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a market area, buzzing with traders,
entertainers and food stalls
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where people would gather
to put the world to rights.
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It's where I'm meeting Beliz Sahin,
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a researcher at the local
university, to get a feel for
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what life in the city would've been
like under Ottoman rule.
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Hi! Hello!
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Oh, it's lovely to meet you.
Yeah, for me too. Thank you.
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In the historic bazaar of Adana.
Yes, we are in the historic core
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of Adana - it's the Grand Bazaar.
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So this is the heart of the city,
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and we're coming out now
onto this street... Actually,
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we are in the complex of
Ramadanid Emirate.
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They built this complex
in the 16th century. Yeah.
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They will all have different
a building type.
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This is the baths, this is
the bazaar,
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and when we go this way
we'll see the Grand Mosque,
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we'll see the madrasah there.
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These are all the parts of a classic
complex built in Ottoman Empire.
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So we've got some elements
that go back centuries
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and then we've got this... Yes.
..which is the famous clock tower
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which is a bit later.
Yeah, it's later.
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It's at the end of the 19th century.
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It's built... They started building
in 1881 and ended in 1882.
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It was built in the time of
Abdul Hamid II,
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and it is built for the purpose
of the public to see
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what time it is, for work and
prayer times... Oh, OK.
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..because the public didn't have
a watch, so they see the...time.
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So it's to make sure people
get to work on time
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and also make sure they go to the
mosque at the right time as well.
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Yes. It's important for them. Yeah.
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00:13:27,200 --> 00:13:29,920
The clock tower might be
a recent addition,
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but the layout of important
buildings in the centre of Adana
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mirrors that of many other cities
built by the Ottomans,
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which included a Turkish bath,
a bazaar, and a Grand Mosque.
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I think Turkey is such a fascinating
place because it sits here
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with Europe if we face west,
Asia to the east,
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00:13:55,800 --> 00:13:58,200
the Middle East and Africa
to the south. Mm-hm.
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And you've got all these
different cultures -
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it really is at a crossroads.
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And Adana in particular seems
to be a bit of a frontier town.
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Yes, yes. As its location,
it's like a gate from East to West.
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00:14:10,760 --> 00:14:14,240
So we can see the interaction
with so many nations,
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00:14:14,280 --> 00:14:16,520
so many cultures, and
they're living here. Yeah.
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So when you look at the city,
it is very easy to see
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their effects on buildings.
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We know that there were
many churches in the past.
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There was an Eastern Orthodox
church, a Catholic church,
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00:14:31,000 --> 00:14:33,720
a Protestant church,
Gregorian church.
225
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But in time, when the non-Muslim
community started to leave the city,
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these churches turned back
to cultural centres,
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00:14:41,600 --> 00:14:43,680
museums, or mosques sometimes. Yeah.
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00:14:43,720 --> 00:14:48,760
So when does Adana become part of
the expanding Ottoman Empire?
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00:14:48,800 --> 00:14:52,360
We can say that in the 16th century
we see Ottoman Empire here.
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00:14:52,400 --> 00:14:55,960
And in the 17th, 18th centuries
it still goes on,
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00:14:56,000 --> 00:14:59,320
and we see the reflections of
the empire in different places.
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00:14:59,360 --> 00:15:02,080
Yeah. I mean, it's fantastic
going to see the oldest mosque.
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00:15:02,120 --> 00:15:05,720
I've been to see the Yag Camii.
Yes, Yag Mosque. The old mosque,
234
00:15:05,760 --> 00:15:07,400
the Yag Mosque. Yag Camii, yeah.
235
00:15:07,440 --> 00:15:10,880
And to see that it was originally
a basilica with that apse
236
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at the end... Yeah. ..with the
mosque then added a bit later on,
237
00:15:14,040 --> 00:15:16,920
so you've kind of got that history
written into the stone,
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written in the architecture. Yes.
239
00:15:18,560 --> 00:15:22,480
And this is your passion, looking
for history in architecture.
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00:15:22,520 --> 00:15:25,680
Yes, because in every detail
you can find a story,
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00:15:25,720 --> 00:15:29,840
and when you find the story you feel
more connected to the city.
242
00:15:29,880 --> 00:15:32,280
You know the history, you know
where it is coming from,
243
00:15:32,320 --> 00:15:35,400
and maybe you can have an
assumption, like, where it will go,
244
00:15:35,440 --> 00:15:39,920
you can have an idea. Yeah.
And I think it is important to have.
245
00:15:39,960 --> 00:15:44,280
With its characteristic architecture
and cross-cultural influences,
246
00:15:44,320 --> 00:15:47,680
Adana has been the perfect
introduction to my journey
247
00:15:47,720 --> 00:15:49,840
discovering the Ottoman Empire.
248
00:15:58,640 --> 00:16:03,040
I'm in the historic city of Adana
in central-southern Turkey,
249
00:16:03,080 --> 00:16:08,080
discovering the long-held secrets
of the Ottoman Empire.
250
00:16:08,120 --> 00:16:11,640
Among them are some
world-famous delicacies,
251
00:16:11,680 --> 00:16:15,240
including a particular
favourite of mine.
252
00:16:15,280 --> 00:16:17,320
Merhaba. Merhaba.
253
00:16:17,360 --> 00:16:18,440
Tahini!
254
00:16:18,480 --> 00:16:20,120
Yes. You're making tahini here?
255
00:16:20,160 --> 00:16:23,640
Original. So you've got a big
vat of sesame seeds. Yes.
256
00:16:24,800 --> 00:16:27,320
It's a simple recipe.
257
00:16:27,360 --> 00:16:31,960
The sesame seeds are ground into
a liquid to produce the condiment.
258
00:16:33,600 --> 00:16:34,920
Do you want this?
259
00:16:34,960 --> 00:16:36,200
Oh, yes, please.
260
00:16:36,240 --> 00:16:38,120
Fresh tahini.
261
00:16:38,160 --> 00:16:39,920
Amazing.
262
00:16:39,960 --> 00:16:41,840
Tesekkur.
263
00:16:41,880 --> 00:16:44,840
At home I've used it to make humous
and salad dressings,
264
00:16:44,880 --> 00:16:47,440
but I've never tasted it
quite this fresh.
265
00:16:47,480 --> 00:16:49,680
Gosh, that's so good.
That's so delicious.
266
00:16:49,720 --> 00:16:51,120
Fresh out of the mill, amazing.
267
00:16:51,160 --> 00:16:52,600
And you make Turkish Delight here?
268
00:16:52,640 --> 00:16:55,080
Yes, welcome. Yeah?
269
00:16:55,120 --> 00:16:57,480
So all of these different ones...
270
00:16:57,520 --> 00:17:00,720
Rose petals, pistachios.
271
00:17:00,760 --> 00:17:02,680
Yeah. That's walnut.
272
00:17:02,720 --> 00:17:05,760
Lovely. Chocolate, kiraz...
273
00:17:05,800 --> 00:17:07,880
So many different varieties.
274
00:17:07,920 --> 00:17:10,120
It's lovely.
275
00:17:10,160 --> 00:17:13,160
The delicacy is believed to
have been invented in
276
00:17:13,200 --> 00:17:16,800
Ottoman kitchens over 500 years ago,
277
00:17:16,840 --> 00:17:19,360
when the ruling Sultan,
Abdul Hamid I,
278
00:17:19,400 --> 00:17:22,640
was struggling to keep
his many wives happy.
279
00:17:22,680 --> 00:17:26,000
He summoned his chefs to come up
with an irresistible sweet
280
00:17:26,040 --> 00:17:30,120
to win their hearts, and
they created Turkish Delight.
281
00:17:31,280 --> 00:17:33,160
And this is where you make it?
282
00:17:34,600 --> 00:17:36,080
Oh, look at that!
283
00:17:37,800 --> 00:17:38,880
Can I come in?
284
00:17:39,880 --> 00:17:41,360
Yeah?
SHE GASPS
285
00:17:41,400 --> 00:17:43,040
LAUGHTER
286
00:17:43,080 --> 00:17:44,200
Turkish Delight?
287
00:17:44,240 --> 00:17:45,640
Yeah.
288
00:17:48,120 --> 00:17:50,760
Oh, wow. Look at that.
289
00:17:50,800 --> 00:17:54,520
Almonds, hazelnuts, pistachios.
290
00:17:54,560 --> 00:17:56,920
Bomba, bomba...
291
00:17:56,960 --> 00:18:00,080
This sweet dessert is simply
a mix of sugar syrup
292
00:18:00,120 --> 00:18:03,760
and cornflower that's cooked
to create a sticky jelly,
293
00:18:03,800 --> 00:18:07,840
and it can be left plain or have
additions like pomegranate,
294
00:18:07,880 --> 00:18:09,600
rose petals or nuts.
295
00:18:11,360 --> 00:18:14,560
A great big mass of sticky
Turkish Delight that's absolutely
296
00:18:14,600 --> 00:18:18,200
full of almonds, hazelnuts,
pistachios.
297
00:18:20,120 --> 00:18:21,360
This is just fantastic.
298
00:18:21,400 --> 00:18:24,080
I've wandered into this shop,
and it's extraordinary -
299
00:18:24,120 --> 00:18:26,240
look at that huge vat.
300
00:18:26,280 --> 00:18:28,440
It's coming. It's coming!
301
00:18:28,480 --> 00:18:30,920
Quick!
SHE LAUGHS
302
00:18:33,480 --> 00:18:36,160
Two massive trays
of Turkish Delight.
303
00:18:42,040 --> 00:18:44,080
Thank you so much. Tesekkur ederim!
304
00:18:44,120 --> 00:18:45,680
Tesekkur ederim.
305
00:18:53,800 --> 00:18:56,080
Well, that's been
a very welcome start
306
00:18:56,120 --> 00:18:58,200
to my second day in Adana.
307
00:18:58,240 --> 00:19:01,160
But I'm keen to get back
to uncovering the Ottomans'
308
00:19:01,200 --> 00:19:05,120
architectural legacy in the city.
309
00:19:05,160 --> 00:19:08,600
There's one place I want to visit
that exemplifies this,
310
00:19:08,640 --> 00:19:11,080
and one you can't fail to notice -
311
00:19:11,120 --> 00:19:14,200
the majestic Sabanci Central Mosque.
312
00:19:16,400 --> 00:19:18,560
Set on the banks of
the Seyhan River,
313
00:19:18,600 --> 00:19:21,240
you can see it from almost
anywhere in the city,
314
00:19:21,280 --> 00:19:25,880
with its six minarets climbing
into the sky.
315
00:19:25,920 --> 00:19:30,640
It's designed in the style of
the famous Ottoman architect Sinan,
316
00:19:30,680 --> 00:19:34,160
and is now one of Adana's
most iconic attractions.
317
00:19:44,600 --> 00:19:47,240
Well, this is enormous.
318
00:19:47,280 --> 00:19:48,800
What a beautiful mosque.
319
00:19:50,040 --> 00:19:53,920
It's quite new - it's only about
25 years old.
320
00:19:53,960 --> 00:19:57,120
But it's definitely got that
kind of Ottoman flavour to it.
321
00:20:01,360 --> 00:20:03,920
The Ottomans were followers
of Islam,
322
00:20:03,960 --> 00:20:07,000
a religious heritage that is
even stronger today
323
00:20:07,040 --> 00:20:11,560
with almost 99% of the Turkish
population being Muslims.
324
00:20:13,560 --> 00:20:16,920
There has been renewed investment
in religious institutions,
325
00:20:16,960 --> 00:20:20,080
and this Grand Mosque was
opened in 1998,
326
00:20:20,120 --> 00:20:23,440
after a ten-year build
beset with problems.
327
00:20:23,480 --> 00:20:26,280
Its foundations sit
on the ancient riverbed.
328
00:20:27,480 --> 00:20:29,120
But it was well worth the wait
329
00:20:29,160 --> 00:20:32,240
as it's now the second largest
mosque in Turkey
330
00:20:32,280 --> 00:20:37,080
and can fit an incredible
28,500 worshippers.
331
00:20:42,720 --> 00:20:47,800
The main dome is huge,
with a diameter of 32 metres
332
00:20:47,840 --> 00:20:51,320
at a height of 54 metres from
floor to ceiling.
333
00:20:53,040 --> 00:20:56,360
The measurements used in
the mosque's construction reflect
334
00:20:56,400 --> 00:20:59,320
important numbers in Islamic belief,
335
00:20:59,360 --> 00:21:04,240
with its six minarets specifically
built to the height of 99 metres,
336
00:21:04,280 --> 00:21:07,400
reflecting the 99 names of Allah.
337
00:21:07,440 --> 00:21:11,240
And I'm taking my life into my hands
to scale one of them.
338
00:21:16,640 --> 00:21:17,680
Well, this is incredibly narrow.
339
00:21:20,000 --> 00:21:23,040
Got to take the steps.
340
00:21:23,080 --> 00:21:25,880
Traditionally the Imam would climb
all these steps to
341
00:21:25,920 --> 00:21:28,760
a platform where he would perform
the call to prayer,
342
00:21:28,800 --> 00:21:30,800
that would echo across the city.
343
00:21:32,560 --> 00:21:34,640
Getting my steps in today.
344
00:21:38,000 --> 00:21:39,680
Oh, now it's gone really dark.
345
00:21:47,720 --> 00:21:50,520
I wish I'd counted these steps!
346
00:21:50,560 --> 00:21:54,600
Oh, hang on a bit of light
a lot of light.
347
00:21:57,000 --> 00:21:58,320
OK.
348
00:22:00,080 --> 00:22:07,600
OK. Oh, wow, look at that view.
That's amazing,
349
00:22:07,640 --> 00:22:12,520
what a beautiful bridge.
Well, the steps are worth it.
350
00:22:13,720 --> 00:22:18,520
Wow, right over Adana,
351
00:22:18,560 --> 00:22:21,720
which is a huge city,
352
00:22:21,760 --> 00:22:23,600
And this beautiful new mosque,
353
00:22:23,640 --> 00:22:26,360
I've been inside looking up at
that dome,
354
00:22:26,400 --> 00:22:28,960
it's quite extraordinary
to be looking down on it
355
00:22:29,000 --> 00:22:35,160
and I'm up one of its six minarets,
they're each 99 metres high.
356
00:22:35,200 --> 00:22:38,320
It's fine looking out,
357
00:22:38,360 --> 00:22:42,560
but it's a little bit nerve-racking
looking down. Oh!
358
00:22:45,240 --> 00:22:48,240
Now the imams don't walk up all
those stairs
359
00:22:48,280 --> 00:22:50,520
to do their call to prayer any
more,
360
00:22:50,560 --> 00:22:52,440
they stay down the bottom
361
00:22:52,480 --> 00:22:56,240
and it comes out through these loud
speakers - it's pretty sensible.
362
00:23:05,320 --> 00:23:07,680
Oh, what a view, oh,
363
00:23:07,720 --> 00:23:09,360
there was a lift here all along.
364
00:23:13,680 --> 00:23:14,760
A broken elevator.
365
00:23:17,400 --> 00:23:19,520
Hmm, even if it was working,
366
00:23:19,560 --> 00:23:21,800
I think it was probably safer
to use my legs,
367
00:23:21,840 --> 00:23:24,320
I wouldn't fancy my chances getting
stuck halfway up
368
00:23:24,360 --> 00:23:25,720
a minaret.
369
00:23:27,760 --> 00:23:30,720
There are many ancient sites in this
city that date to
370
00:23:30,760 --> 00:23:32,520
the time of the Ottomans,
371
00:23:32,560 --> 00:23:36,440
but the might of
the Empire lay on the foundations of
372
00:23:36,480 --> 00:23:39,040
an earlier superpower.
373
00:23:39,080 --> 00:23:42,240
This ancient stone bridge was first
built by
374
00:23:42,280 --> 00:23:46,680
the Romans, ordered by
the Emperor Hadrian, no less.
375
00:23:46,720 --> 00:23:48,160
For centuries,
376
00:23:48,200 --> 00:23:51,120
it was the only way
to get across the Seyhan River,
377
00:23:51,160 --> 00:23:53,040
without getting your feet wet.
378
00:23:53,080 --> 00:23:54,760
As a strategic crossing point,
379
00:23:54,800 --> 00:23:58,520
this old bridge was
of huge importance to the Ottomans.
380
00:23:58,560 --> 00:24:01,040
To tell me how the Turks capitalised
on it,
381
00:24:01,080 --> 00:24:04,120
I've met up with Professor
Duygu Saban.
382
00:24:04,160 --> 00:24:06,400
We're getting a fantastic view of
the bridge here,
383
00:24:06,440 --> 00:24:08,800
I mean, some of that stone work
must be original?
384
00:24:08,840 --> 00:24:12,600
Presumably it's been redeveloped
and renovated over time,
385
00:24:12,640 --> 00:24:14,560
but some of that must be Roman.
386
00:24:14,600 --> 00:24:18,200
Most of them,
at least 80% is Roman.
387
00:24:18,240 --> 00:24:22,360
The newly constructed ones is
the upper parts.
388
00:24:22,400 --> 00:24:24,160
Just this paler stone?
389
00:24:24,200 --> 00:24:26,640
Yeah, the paler one.
Along the parapet. Yeah.
390
00:24:26,680 --> 00:24:28,360
In history documents we couldn't
391
00:24:28,400 --> 00:24:33,000
find records of it being demolished
by the floods or
392
00:24:33,040 --> 00:24:35,720
by earthquakes or anything
like that.
393
00:24:35,760 --> 00:24:38,480
So you think it's been standing
since the Roman period?
394
00:24:38,520 --> 00:24:40,040
Yes, certainly,
395
00:24:40,080 --> 00:24:42,600
certainly there are no records
of its demolition,
396
00:24:42,640 --> 00:24:45,360
but there are some modifications.
397
00:24:45,400 --> 00:24:49,320
We can see less arches than it used
to be.
398
00:24:49,360 --> 00:24:51,000
Originally,
399
00:24:51,040 --> 00:24:54,200
there were 21 arches, now we can see
only 14.
400
00:24:54,240 --> 00:24:56,200
Uh, the river bed was much larger.
401
00:24:56,240 --> 00:24:58,400
So, it would've been much longer.
402
00:24:58,440 --> 00:25:01,120
Yeah, it was much longer.
Yeah.
403
00:25:01,160 --> 00:25:03,680
So we're really just looking at
the middle of this ancient bridge.
404
00:25:03,720 --> 00:25:05,600
Yeah, yeah.
405
00:25:05,640 --> 00:25:07,960
People would have crossed this
bridge then
406
00:25:08,000 --> 00:25:09,760
and entered the city.
407
00:25:09,800 --> 00:25:12,120
Yes. This would have been
the city wall just here, would it?
408
00:25:12,160 --> 00:25:13,720
Exactly,
409
00:25:13,760 --> 00:25:16,240
and every Friday, people from
410
00:25:16,280 --> 00:25:19,160
the countryside would bring
their food
411
00:25:19,200 --> 00:25:24,160
and animals to sell
and to also buy things.
412
00:25:24,200 --> 00:25:28,160
And as you know Friday is sacred
for Islam
413
00:25:28,200 --> 00:25:32,920
because you pray in
the Friday mosque on Fridays
414
00:25:32,960 --> 00:25:35,680
and it has to be the Grand Mosque.
415
00:25:35,720 --> 00:25:39,320
Yeah, so you're coming to market
but you're also going to pray.
416
00:25:39,360 --> 00:25:40,880
Yeah, you come to market,
417
00:25:40,920 --> 00:25:44,400
you pray and you have,
and you go to hammam,
418
00:25:44,440 --> 00:25:49,400
bath, you get cleaned up
and then you pray
419
00:25:49,440 --> 00:25:51,360
and then you buy your stuff
420
00:25:51,400 --> 00:25:54,640
and go back to your village.
Yeah.
421
00:25:54,680 --> 00:25:58,200
And
so, it was until 1990s,
422
00:25:58,240 --> 00:26:00,400
almost. It was the same, yes.
Really?
423
00:26:00,440 --> 00:26:02,000
That still,
424
00:26:02,040 --> 00:26:04,720
that rhythm of life which had
carried on for centuries.
425
00:26:04,760 --> 00:26:06,320
Yes.
426
00:26:06,360 --> 00:26:07,760
It was a key point then,
427
00:26:07,800 --> 00:26:09,960
it was a key crossing point on
this river.
428
00:26:10,000 --> 00:26:11,480
Definitely a very strategic
429
00:26:11,520 --> 00:26:13,680
and very important point for
430
00:26:13,720 --> 00:26:16,600
the Silk Route as well. Yeah.
And the trade routes.
431
00:26:16,640 --> 00:26:19,880
So it's always,
it's on the silk roads,
432
00:26:19,920 --> 00:26:23,000
it's on that important route between
East and West. And it still is.
433
00:26:23,040 --> 00:26:25,840
The Ottoman Empire
accumulated wealth
434
00:26:25,880 --> 00:26:29,960
and power by controlling
the lucrative silk roads.
435
00:26:30,000 --> 00:26:34,360
These trade routes spanned 4,000
miles from China,
436
00:26:34,400 --> 00:26:37,080
through the Middle East into
Southern Europe.
437
00:26:37,120 --> 00:26:40,200
Along these routes huge volumes
of wool,
438
00:26:40,240 --> 00:26:44,040
gold, silver and spices could be
traded between the East
439
00:26:44,080 --> 00:26:47,760
and West, with profits flowing into
the Empire's coffers.
440
00:26:51,040 --> 00:26:52,520
Tomorrow,
441
00:26:52,560 --> 00:26:55,760
I'm back on the train
to continue my Ottoman journey
442
00:26:55,800 --> 00:26:58,320
and I'll be heading into
the mountains
443
00:26:58,360 --> 00:27:00,160
to understand more about
444
00:27:00,200 --> 00:27:02,560
the history of this unique corner of
the globe.
445
00:27:14,240 --> 00:27:17,640
It's early morning,
and time for me to leave Adana for
446
00:27:17,680 --> 00:27:20,280
the next leg of my
Ottoman adventure,
447
00:27:20,320 --> 00:27:25,720
learning about the origins of
the empire and what preceded it.
448
00:27:25,760 --> 00:27:27,200
And I'm hoping my smattering
449
00:27:27,240 --> 00:27:29,280
of Turkish will get me
the ticket I need.
450
00:27:35,800 --> 00:27:39,600
Merhaba.
Konya bir bilet.
451
00:27:39,640 --> 00:27:41,200
SPEAKS TURKISH
452
00:27:43,800 --> 00:27:45,760
What is your name?
453
00:27:45,800 --> 00:27:47,280
Alice.
454
00:27:47,320 --> 00:27:49,480
Ah, well, it was worth a try.
455
00:27:51,520 --> 00:27:53,080
Tesekkur ederim.
456
00:27:56,000 --> 00:28:01,160
My destination is 166 miles
north-west of Adana,
457
00:28:01,200 --> 00:28:03,960
the religious city of Konya.
458
00:28:04,000 --> 00:28:07,440
And I'm taking the Taurus Express,
which is named after
459
00:28:07,480 --> 00:28:08,680
the magnificent range
460
00:28:08,720 --> 00:28:11,040
of mountains it
passes through.
461
00:28:36,400 --> 00:28:39,160
Oh, wow, look at that, lovely.
462
00:28:41,680 --> 00:28:44,760
We're into the foothills of
the Taurus Mountains
463
00:28:44,800 --> 00:28:47,760
and as we rise up through
the Taurus Mountains,
464
00:28:47,800 --> 00:28:51,160
the terrain gets fairly difficult
for a railway
465
00:28:51,200 --> 00:28:52,760
to traverse.
466
00:28:52,800 --> 00:28:56,800
And in the early 20th century
Europe was hungry for oil.
467
00:28:56,840 --> 00:28:59,280
It wanted the oil from
the Middle East.
468
00:28:59,320 --> 00:29:02,360
Germany in particular wanted
that oil
469
00:29:02,400 --> 00:29:04,080
and they invested in
470
00:29:04,120 --> 00:29:06,720
a railway running from Baghdad
in Iraq,
471
00:29:06,760 --> 00:29:09,800
which was then under German control,
all the way
472
00:29:09,840 --> 00:29:12,600
to Istanbul and then on to Berlin.
473
00:29:12,640 --> 00:29:15,680
And as part of that railway, they
needed to cross
474
00:29:15,720 --> 00:29:18,000
a particularly deep gorge
475
00:29:18,040 --> 00:29:21,560
and they built the Varda Viaduct.
476
00:29:21,600 --> 00:29:24,720
Now this viaduct is 172 metres long,
477
00:29:24,760 --> 00:29:28,120
it's 98 metres tall.
478
00:29:28,160 --> 00:29:29,800
It's quite iconic
479
00:29:29,840 --> 00:29:32,920
for James Bond fans - you might
recognise it from
480
00:29:32,960 --> 00:29:35,240
the opening scenes of Skyfall.
481
00:30:02,200 --> 00:30:06,000
Aww. I got a lovely view of that,
just looking back,
482
00:30:06,040 --> 00:30:08,360
fantastic viaduct over a really,
483
00:30:08,400 --> 00:30:09,960
really deep gorge
484
00:30:10,000 --> 00:30:12,280
and now we really are getting
up into
485
00:30:12,320 --> 00:30:13,800
the Taurus Mountains.
486
00:30:13,840 --> 00:30:15,800
We've risen up as we've come up from
487
00:30:15,840 --> 00:30:18,800
Adana about 1,000 metres above
sea level.
488
00:30:26,320 --> 00:30:29,440
The Taurus Mountains separate
the Mediterranean coast from
489
00:30:29,480 --> 00:30:31,800
the central Anatolian plateau.
490
00:30:33,240 --> 00:30:37,800
The highest peak rises more than
4,000 metres above sea level and
491
00:30:37,840 --> 00:30:41,560
the mountains are
the source of two famous rivers,
492
00:30:41,600 --> 00:30:43,960
the Euphrates and the Tigris.
493
00:30:47,000 --> 00:30:50,400
It's a wonderful landscape dotted
with waterfalls,
494
00:30:50,440 --> 00:30:53,880
with underground rivers
and the largest caves in Asia.
495
00:30:58,520 --> 00:31:02,080
After passing through
the dramatic Taurus Mountain range,
496
00:31:02,120 --> 00:31:05,680
it's another five hours before we
reach Konya.
497
00:31:06,880 --> 00:31:10,040
And it is an awe-inspiring journey
across miles
498
00:31:10,080 --> 00:31:14,480
and miles of the stunning landscape
of the Central Anatolian plain.
499
00:31:29,000 --> 00:31:30,800
It's now early afternoon
500
00:31:30,840 --> 00:31:34,120
and I've finally made it
to Central Anatolia
501
00:31:34,160 --> 00:31:36,360
and ancient Konya.
502
00:31:36,400 --> 00:31:39,840
But before I begin to explore
the city's Ottoman past,
503
00:31:39,880 --> 00:31:43,000
I'm interested in seeing what
preceded it.
504
00:31:43,040 --> 00:31:44,800
Hello, Merhaba.
505
00:31:44,840 --> 00:31:46,560
HE REPLIES IN TURKISH
506
00:31:46,600 --> 00:31:48,760
I want to go to Catalhoyuk.
507
00:31:52,640 --> 00:31:55,840
I'm heading out to
the dusty plains around Konya,
508
00:31:55,880 --> 00:31:57,680
and the world heritage site
509
00:31:57,720 --> 00:32:01,080
of Catalhoyuk, which doesn't look
like much from here.
510
00:32:03,320 --> 00:32:05,840
I'm meeting Dr Ali Turkcan,
511
00:32:05,880 --> 00:32:09,680
the excavation director who started
digging here 30 years ago as
512
00:32:09,720 --> 00:32:12,040
a student.
513
00:32:12,080 --> 00:32:15,240
Hi, Alice.
Hello, you know, I've wanted to...
514
00:32:15,280 --> 00:32:17,200
Welcome to Catalhoyuk.
515
00:32:17,240 --> 00:32:21,640
I've wanted to come here for
so many years - this is amazing.
Yeah.
516
00:32:23,040 --> 00:32:25,960
Catalhoyuk was discovered 65
years ago
517
00:32:26,000 --> 00:32:29,200
by British archaeologist,
James Mellaart, who,
518
00:32:29,240 --> 00:32:30,760
in 1958,
519
00:32:30,800 --> 00:32:34,040
spotted a mound on
the dusty Konya plain and,
520
00:32:34,080 --> 00:32:36,920
despite everyone saying there was
nothing out there,
521
00:32:36,960 --> 00:32:39,680
Mellaart began excavating...
522
00:32:40,720 --> 00:32:42,400
..and he put Turkey on
523
00:32:42,440 --> 00:32:47,320
the map of early civilisation by
revealing this extraordinary
524
00:32:47,360 --> 00:32:48,920
prehistoric settlement.
525
00:32:51,080 --> 00:32:52,640
When did it start?
526
00:32:52,680 --> 00:32:56,880
It started in 7,100 BC.
527
00:32:56,920 --> 00:32:58,200
OK.
528
00:32:58,240 --> 00:33:00,480
According to the radiocarbon.
The buildings,
529
00:33:00,520 --> 00:33:02,680
some buildings,
are just on top
530
00:33:02,720 --> 00:33:05,520
of each other, they are following
each other,
531
00:33:05,560 --> 00:33:09,160
it's a very custom in
central Anatolia.
532
00:33:09,200 --> 00:33:12,240
So you can imagine generations
and generations of people
533
00:33:12,280 --> 00:33:14,480
and gradually it gets higher
and higher.
534
00:33:14,520 --> 00:33:18,240
These houses,
over 50 years, the timespan.
535
00:33:18,280 --> 00:33:19,760
Yeah.
536
00:33:19,800 --> 00:33:24,000
But we found 70 burials here.
It's very extraordinary.
537
00:33:24,040 --> 00:33:27,280
70 burials in one house?
Yes, 70 burials in one house.
538
00:33:27,320 --> 00:33:29,200
When we think about burials
539
00:33:29,240 --> 00:33:31,680
and particularly in later periods
we,
540
00:33:31,720 --> 00:33:34,160
we're used to cemeteries being
separate from settlement sites.
541
00:33:34,200 --> 00:33:37,200
Um, yeah. Sometimes very close, but
not in them.
542
00:33:37,240 --> 00:33:38,400
Not in them
543
00:33:38,440 --> 00:33:40,680
but it's a Neolithic custom it's
a Neolithic custom,
544
00:33:40,720 --> 00:33:43,400
and then they are living here. Yeah.
That's why...
545
00:33:43,440 --> 00:33:46,440
So it's not like
a building that goes out of use
546
00:33:46,480 --> 00:33:48,440
and then becomes used as
547
00:33:48,480 --> 00:33:51,920
a small cemetery - they're still
living in it, at the same time.
548
00:33:51,960 --> 00:33:53,640
Yeah, sure,
549
00:33:53,680 --> 00:33:56,600
sure, probably for
a short duration time,
550
00:33:56,640 --> 00:33:58,320
probably they, ah,
551
00:33:58,360 --> 00:34:02,120
left the houses
because you can imagine the smell.
552
00:34:02,160 --> 00:34:03,560
At its height,
553
00:34:03,600 --> 00:34:05,840
how many people do you think
lived here?
554
00:34:05,880 --> 00:34:07,440
It's over 7,000 people.
555
00:34:07,480 --> 00:34:09,160
7,000 people.
556
00:34:09,200 --> 00:34:10,800
Lived together because...
557
00:34:10,840 --> 00:34:12,640
So that's more than a village.
558
00:34:12,680 --> 00:34:14,960
It's a 14-hectare area.
559
00:34:15,000 --> 00:34:18,560
14 hectares, so it's huge,
a huge site.
560
00:34:18,600 --> 00:34:21,480
It's a huge area.
Is it, it's not a village?
561
00:34:21,520 --> 00:34:23,920
It is... Is it reasonable to call
it...
562
00:34:23,960 --> 00:34:25,720
2% of the area, here.
563
00:34:25,760 --> 00:34:27,560
This is 2%?
564
00:34:27,600 --> 00:34:29,240
Almost. This bit here is 2%?
565
00:34:29,280 --> 00:34:31,040
That's crazy. Yeah.
566
00:34:31,080 --> 00:34:32,480
I mean, absolutely massive...
567
00:34:32,520 --> 00:34:36,280
Is it reasonable to call it
a city? Or a proto city?
568
00:34:36,320 --> 00:34:38,480
Proto city, yes.
Yeah, yeah.
569
00:34:38,520 --> 00:34:40,680
We can, we should,
we should say proto city.
570
00:34:40,720 --> 00:34:42,640
So this is a beginning
of urban living?
571
00:34:42,680 --> 00:34:43,960
Of course. Yes.
572
00:34:44,000 --> 00:34:47,000
Yeah, yeah, and they are
presumably. You know,
573
00:34:47,040 --> 00:34:49,800
they are farmers. They are,
they're farming
574
00:34:49,840 --> 00:34:52,440
the surrounding countryside, they're
bringing in resources from
575
00:34:52,480 --> 00:34:54,080
elsewhere,
576
00:34:54,120 --> 00:34:56,440
I mean, presumably they are
materially rich,
577
00:34:56,480 --> 00:34:59,360
then? They can acquire
exotic materials?
578
00:34:59,400 --> 00:35:01,920
Exotic materials, uh-huh.
579
00:35:01,960 --> 00:35:03,760
And from the burials,
580
00:35:03,800 --> 00:35:08,760
burials can be different, in some
burials you can't find anything,
581
00:35:08,800 --> 00:35:12,440
but in some burials, they are
furnished with
582
00:35:12,480 --> 00:35:14,960
so many materials,
obsidian mirrors, daggers.
583
00:35:15,000 --> 00:35:17,480
So if you've got
the difference in burials...
584
00:35:17,520 --> 00:35:19,400
Some people being buried
with nothing,
585
00:35:19,440 --> 00:35:20,800
you've got other people being buried
586
00:35:20,840 --> 00:35:23,280
with objects including
exotic materials. Yes.
587
00:35:23,320 --> 00:35:25,840
Do you think that's showing
social stratification?
588
00:35:25,880 --> 00:35:28,080
Do you think it's showing that there
are some people that are more
589
00:35:28,120 --> 00:35:29,440
important than others?
590
00:35:29,480 --> 00:35:32,480
Probably, at the base level there
was a social stratification
591
00:35:32,520 --> 00:35:37,000
and when you imagine 5,000 people
together, probably there were
592
00:35:37,040 --> 00:35:39,760
stratification, uh-hm. Yeah.
593
00:35:52,400 --> 00:35:54,120
Although they've only excavated
594
00:35:54,160 --> 00:35:57,120
a fraction of this
extraordinary settlement
595
00:35:57,160 --> 00:35:59,200
the archaeologists have been able
to create
596
00:35:59,240 --> 00:36:01,240
a reconstruction of what part
597
00:36:01,280 --> 00:36:04,440
of Catalhoyuk would have been like
9,000 years ago.
598
00:36:10,240 --> 00:36:12,680
These houses were clustered
together in
599
00:36:12,720 --> 00:36:14,520
a honeycomb-like maze
600
00:36:14,560 --> 00:36:17,480
and could be accessed through
the roof,
601
00:36:17,520 --> 00:36:20,480
with the rooftops acting like
streets.
602
00:36:20,520 --> 00:36:22,200
They were built without windows,
603
00:36:22,240 --> 00:36:25,080
they had one large living room
for the family,
604
00:36:25,120 --> 00:36:27,440
complete with a fireplace, beds,
605
00:36:27,480 --> 00:36:29,080
raised platforms
606
00:36:29,120 --> 00:36:32,400
and plastered walls decorated
with murals,
607
00:36:32,440 --> 00:36:34,720
and burials inside the houses.
608
00:36:38,680 --> 00:36:41,040
The museum on the site displays
some of
609
00:36:41,080 --> 00:36:42,600
the incredibly well-preserved
610
00:36:42,640 --> 00:36:45,440
artefacts found in
the excavated homes.
611
00:36:56,040 --> 00:36:57,480
It's been a privilege
612
00:36:57,520 --> 00:37:00,480
to visit this iconic Neolithic site
613
00:37:00,520 --> 00:37:03,160
but tomorrow I'm back on
the trail of the Ottomans
614
00:37:03,200 --> 00:37:07,640
and the lasting imprint they left
across their empire.
615
00:37:25,520 --> 00:37:29,960
I'm in central Turkey in
the ancient city of Konya
616
00:37:30,000 --> 00:37:34,000
that was pivotal to
so many civilisations and religions,
617
00:37:34,040 --> 00:37:38,440
from the early Christians
to various followers of Islam.
618
00:37:38,480 --> 00:37:41,080
Including the Ottomans, who arrived
here in
619
00:37:41,120 --> 00:37:42,920
the mid-15th century,
620
00:37:42,960 --> 00:37:46,320
transforming the city
with their trademark architecture
621
00:37:46,360 --> 00:37:50,520
and numerous mosques, including
their piece de resistance,
622
00:37:50,560 --> 00:37:53,160
the magnificent Selimiye Mosque.
623
00:37:55,240 --> 00:37:59,760
Today, Konya has barely been touched
by international tourism,
624
00:37:59,800 --> 00:38:04,960
but it is well-known in Turkey as
a popular pilgrim destination.
625
00:38:05,000 --> 00:38:06,480
And that's
626
00:38:06,520 --> 00:38:08,720
because it is home to
the mausoleum of
627
00:38:08,760 --> 00:38:11,640
the revered 13th-century
Sufi mystic,
628
00:38:11,680 --> 00:38:14,240
the poet and philosopher Rumi.
629
00:38:19,160 --> 00:38:22,360
In the rose garden of
the religious complex I have come
630
00:38:22,400 --> 00:38:26,520
to watch a modern-day performance by
whirling dervishes,
631
00:38:26,560 --> 00:38:27,960
followers of Rumi.
632
00:38:31,040 --> 00:38:34,120
I'm also meeting tour guide
Zey Inaloz,
633
00:38:34,160 --> 00:38:37,960
to learn more about
the spiritual basis of this dance
634
00:38:38,000 --> 00:38:41,720
and about that religious leader,
Rumi, himself.
635
00:38:43,440 --> 00:38:46,240
CHANTING MUSIC
636
00:38:56,120 --> 00:38:58,960
Hello. Hello.
Shall we sit down here?
637
00:38:59,000 --> 00:39:01,040
Yes, welcome.
638
00:39:01,080 --> 00:39:02,600
This is amazing.
639
00:39:02,640 --> 00:39:04,160
It's amazing, right.
640
00:39:04,200 --> 00:39:06,520
I haven't seen whirling
dervishes before.
641
00:39:06,560 --> 00:39:08,400
Ah, OK, this is your first time?
642
00:39:08,440 --> 00:39:11,000
It is and it's not quite what
I expected,
643
00:39:11,040 --> 00:39:16,480
it's extremely hypnotising, it's
kind of mesmeric.
644
00:39:16,520 --> 00:39:18,240
Yeah, it's totally magical.
645
00:39:18,280 --> 00:39:19,560
Yeah.
646
00:39:19,600 --> 00:39:22,760
The dance of whirling dervishes is
called Sema,
647
00:39:22,800 --> 00:39:26,880
and is, we call that Sema,
sema, which means sky.
648
00:39:26,920 --> 00:39:31,520
It is growing yourself
an inner spiritual.
649
00:39:31,560 --> 00:39:35,520
We came from the God
and we will return back to God,
650
00:39:35,560 --> 00:39:39,160
that's why they were holding their
arms like that
651
00:39:39,200 --> 00:39:41,360
and standing position.
652
00:39:41,400 --> 00:39:42,720
They did that.
653
00:39:42,760 --> 00:39:44,320
They did that, right.
654
00:39:44,360 --> 00:39:46,480
They did that to begin with,
and then they unfurl.
655
00:39:46,520 --> 00:39:48,280
And unfurl
656
00:39:48,320 --> 00:39:52,360
and they're opening their arms into
right hands facing
657
00:39:52,400 --> 00:39:56,400
to sky, left is facing to ground,
to soil.
658
00:39:56,440 --> 00:39:57,920
Right, yeah.
659
00:39:57,960 --> 00:40:00,600
That means we came from the God
660
00:40:00,640 --> 00:40:03,520
and we will return back to
the God with nothing.
661
00:40:03,560 --> 00:40:06,440
So, this is a kind
of religious meditation.
662
00:40:06,480 --> 00:40:09,600
It is exactly a kind
of religious meditation.
663
00:40:11,080 --> 00:40:14,200
It comes from the Sufi's custom,
664
00:40:14,240 --> 00:40:18,480
because this custom became
a very popular belief in Turkey.
665
00:40:18,520 --> 00:40:19,960
And the meaning
666
00:40:20,000 --> 00:40:22,440
of dervish itself - is
this essentially,
667
00:40:22,480 --> 00:40:24,800
somebody like a monk who has taken
a vow of poverty?
668
00:40:24,840 --> 00:40:26,680
Is that what it is?
669
00:40:26,720 --> 00:40:29,640
It is not exactly poverty
670
00:40:29,680 --> 00:40:33,800
but what you call dervishes is
a perfection man.
671
00:40:33,840 --> 00:40:36,840
He can't be anger,
you can control yourself,
672
00:40:36,880 --> 00:40:38,840
you should be patient.
673
00:40:38,880 --> 00:40:41,480
The point is if you are able
674
00:40:41,520 --> 00:40:44,720
to love at difficult things in
your life,
675
00:40:44,760 --> 00:40:46,320
you can be a Dervish.
676
00:40:47,480 --> 00:40:50,800
And it is very hard
to control yourself, indeed.
677
00:40:50,840 --> 00:40:52,120
Yeah.
678
00:40:52,160 --> 00:40:54,840
It is very difficult
to love your hater.
679
00:40:54,880 --> 00:40:57,880
Yeah.
Very, very hard.
680
00:40:57,920 --> 00:40:59,560
God will love you
681
00:40:59,600 --> 00:41:02,320
and God will welcome you in
his heaven.
682
00:41:02,360 --> 00:41:06,080
And your life in the world
will be heaven.
683
00:41:06,120 --> 00:41:07,480
Yeah, yeah.
684
00:41:07,520 --> 00:41:11,240
Because your heart already
became clean.
685
00:41:11,280 --> 00:41:13,440
So trying to find heaven on Earth.
686
00:41:13,480 --> 00:41:16,680
Trying to achieve some kind
of transcendental state
687
00:41:16,720 --> 00:41:20,240
with this meditation.
So a deeply spiritual thing.
688
00:41:20,280 --> 00:41:22,920
Yeah, deeply spiritual thing, yeah.
689
00:41:26,480 --> 00:41:28,080
Although Konya is home to
690
00:41:28,120 --> 00:41:29,800
the original whirling dervishes,
691
00:41:29,840 --> 00:41:31,360
It's possible to see
692
00:41:31,400 --> 00:41:33,760
the Sema ceremony being performed
in other
693
00:41:33,800 --> 00:41:35,400
Turkish cities.
694
00:41:36,600 --> 00:41:38,720
The traditional costume includes
695
00:41:38,760 --> 00:41:41,680
long skirts that fan out while
whirling.
696
00:41:44,320 --> 00:41:48,200
But these white gowns also symbolise
burial shrouds.
697
00:41:48,240 --> 00:41:51,240
And the tall felt hats
represent tombstones.
698
00:41:56,560 --> 00:41:59,720
This cemetery is next to
the historic lodge of
699
00:41:59,760 --> 00:42:01,320
the dervishes,
700
00:42:01,360 --> 00:42:04,400
built in the 16th century by
Ottoman sultans.
701
00:42:09,960 --> 00:42:11,680
There is a small mosque
702
00:42:11,720 --> 00:42:14,520
and through the gate of
the dervishes is the madrasah,
703
00:42:14,560 --> 00:42:16,600
the theological school
704
00:42:16,640 --> 00:42:19,120
for Rumi's followers who would
spend up
705
00:42:19,160 --> 00:42:22,760
to 1,000 days training for
the Sema ceremony.
706
00:42:27,240 --> 00:42:30,960
The lodge now forms part of
the Mevlana Museum.
707
00:42:31,000 --> 00:42:34,080
Which includes the outstanding,
domed mausoleum
708
00:42:34,120 --> 00:42:36,200
containing Rumi's tomb.
709
00:42:41,680 --> 00:42:43,920
This is the oldest part of
the complex
710
00:42:43,960 --> 00:42:46,000
and was built by Rumi's sons in
711
00:42:46,040 --> 00:42:50,400
the late 13th century, after he died
at the age of 66.
712
00:42:52,680 --> 00:42:55,760
It is one of Turkey's most important
pilgrimage sites
713
00:42:55,800 --> 00:42:57,360
with more than
714
00:42:57,400 --> 00:42:59,920
one-and-a-half million visitors
coming every year
715
00:42:59,960 --> 00:43:02,280
to honour their adored Sufi mystic.
716
00:43:09,920 --> 00:43:13,120
And when you step inside, it is
breathtaking.
717
00:43:21,760 --> 00:43:23,920
Among the opulent artefacts
718
00:43:23,960 --> 00:43:26,960
is the simpler bronze Nisan Tas,
719
00:43:27,000 --> 00:43:29,960
the April Bowl that
collected rainwater,
720
00:43:30,000 --> 00:43:32,200
sacred to local farmers,
721
00:43:32,240 --> 00:43:35,480
and into which the tip
of Rumi's turban was dipped
722
00:43:35,520 --> 00:43:38,560
and used for healing.
723
00:43:38,600 --> 00:43:41,520
The mausoleum contains
a number of tombs.
724
00:43:47,440 --> 00:43:51,240
But the most lavish is that
of Rumi himself,
725
00:43:51,280 --> 00:43:55,040
covered in an elaborate brocade
embroidered in gold
726
00:43:55,080 --> 00:43:57,520
with verses from the Koran.
727
00:43:57,560 --> 00:43:59,160
And topped with
728
00:43:59,200 --> 00:44:03,720
a huge turban symbolising his
high status.
729
00:44:03,760 --> 00:44:07,160
The number of wraps denotes
the level of importance.
730
00:44:12,360 --> 00:44:14,720
The room next to
the burial chamber is where
731
00:44:14,760 --> 00:44:18,320
the dervishes once prayed
and performed
732
00:44:18,360 --> 00:44:20,320
but today it's filled with cultural
733
00:44:20,360 --> 00:44:23,800
and ritual objects, including copies
of the Koran
734
00:44:23,840 --> 00:44:26,080
and manuscripts of Rumi's poetry.
735
00:44:31,200 --> 00:44:33,560
The dervishes also led
the way in developing
736
00:44:33,600 --> 00:44:36,560
the sounds of traditional Turkish
religious music.
737
00:44:49,040 --> 00:44:51,000
It's been a captivating journey
738
00:44:51,040 --> 00:44:54,080
so far, reminding us just how
much religion,
739
00:44:54,120 --> 00:44:58,680
politics and power were intertwined
and still are,
740
00:44:58,720 --> 00:45:02,520
from the oldest mosque, in Adana,
741
00:45:02,560 --> 00:45:06,280
to the huge,
new Sabanci Mosque.
742
00:45:06,320 --> 00:45:07,840
I've discovered
743
00:45:07,880 --> 00:45:09,720
the Ottoman origins of one
744
00:45:09,760 --> 00:45:12,720
of Turkey's most famous delicacies.
745
00:45:12,760 --> 00:45:15,800
And I've learned about
the ancient mystical practice of
746
00:45:15,840 --> 00:45:17,880
the whirling dervishes of Konya.
747
00:45:21,160 --> 00:45:24,400
I'm getting insights into
Ottoman culture,
748
00:45:24,440 --> 00:45:28,520
as well as the importance
of Islam in their empire.
749
00:45:28,560 --> 00:45:30,880
But there are more Ottoman secrets
750
00:45:30,920 --> 00:45:32,960
and treasures that await me,
751
00:45:33,000 --> 00:45:35,400
and it's time to get back on
the train.
752
00:45:43,440 --> 00:45:47,000
Next time, I go to the capital,
Ankara,
753
00:45:47,040 --> 00:45:50,720
to see the tomb of Ataturk, who
ended the Ottoman Empire.
754
00:45:50,760 --> 00:45:53,120
This is so impressive.
It is, yeah,
755
00:45:53,160 --> 00:45:56,000
it's probably the most monumental
thing you will ever see.
756
00:45:56,040 --> 00:45:58,320
And I take a challenging trip...
757
00:46:02,240 --> 00:46:04,240
..to the old Ottoman capital,
758
00:46:04,280 --> 00:46:07,400
Bursa, where it all began with
a dream.
759
00:46:08,600 --> 00:46:11,280
This is the mausoleum
of Osman, himself,
760
00:46:11,320 --> 00:46:14,080
the sultan who started
the Ottoman Empire.
761
00:46:15,720 --> 00:46:19,600
Two contrasting cities
and two historic leaders,
762
00:46:19,640 --> 00:46:23,520
who bookended 600 years
of Ottoman rule.
763
00:46:27,040 --> 00:46:30,200
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