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These are the user uploaded subtitles that are being translated: 1 00:00:03,520 --> 00:00:07,880 Turkey's golden coastline stretches 5,000 miles, 2 00:00:07,920 --> 00:00:12,560 attracting 40 million tourists every year. 3 00:00:12,600 --> 00:00:17,240 But a few miles inland is a whole different world... 4 00:00:18,640 --> 00:00:21,440 ..one that is intoxicating, 5 00:00:21,480 --> 00:00:22,880 mysterious 6 00:00:22,920 --> 00:00:25,080 and steeped in history. 7 00:00:25,120 --> 00:00:27,680 This is such an incredible building. 8 00:00:27,720 --> 00:00:31,480 It was the largest church in the world 9 00:00:31,520 --> 00:00:33,400 for 1,000 years. 10 00:00:33,440 --> 00:00:37,000 The land where one of the most formidable empires, 11 00:00:37,040 --> 00:00:41,960 lasting six centuries and spanning continents, was founded. 12 00:00:42,000 --> 00:00:43,680 Tesekkur ederim. 13 00:00:43,720 --> 00:00:47,200 I'm Alice Roberts and I'm travelling hundreds of miles 14 00:00:47,240 --> 00:00:50,400 by train through Turkey and Eastern Europe. 15 00:00:50,440 --> 00:00:52,760 Oh, wow, look at that. 16 00:00:52,800 --> 00:00:54,400 Lovely! 17 00:00:54,440 --> 00:00:57,360 I want to discover the fascinating story... 18 00:00:57,400 --> 00:00:58,520 Go. 19 00:00:58,560 --> 00:01:00,880 ..of the Ottoman Empire. 20 00:01:00,920 --> 00:01:03,360 LAUGHTER Oh, no! 21 00:01:03,400 --> 00:01:06,640 This is the mausoleum of Osman himself, 22 00:01:06,680 --> 00:01:10,120 the sultan who started the Ottoman dynasty. 23 00:01:10,160 --> 00:01:12,800 Through its distinctive architecture... 24 00:01:12,840 --> 00:01:14,720 Beautiful courtyard. 25 00:01:14,760 --> 00:01:16,200 ..it's historic leaders... 26 00:01:16,240 --> 00:01:22,000 The early Ottoman sultans had their eye on this prize, Constantinople. 27 00:01:22,040 --> 00:01:25,560 ..and remnants of its turbulent past. 28 00:01:25,600 --> 00:01:27,480 What a horrific monument. 29 00:01:33,640 --> 00:01:38,480 I begin the first leg of my journey in south-east Turkey, where I explore 30 00:01:38,520 --> 00:01:41,520 the importance of Islam to the Ottoman Empire 31 00:01:41,560 --> 00:01:45,160 and scale the dizzy heights of a dynastic legacy. 32 00:01:45,200 --> 00:01:47,960 Oh, wow, look at that view! 33 00:01:48,000 --> 00:01:52,440 Wow. We're right over Adana, 34 00:01:52,480 --> 00:01:54,800 which is a huge city. 35 00:01:54,840 --> 00:01:57,520 I discover more about the trade routes that helped 36 00:01:57,560 --> 00:02:00,440 the Ottomans hold on to their wealth and power... 37 00:02:00,480 --> 00:02:04,800 A very strategic and very important point for the silk route... 38 00:02:04,840 --> 00:02:08,200 It's on the silk roads. Yeah. It's on that important... 39 00:02:08,240 --> 00:02:10,880 And it still is. 40 00:02:10,920 --> 00:02:14,720 ..and learn the sacred meaning behind the mesmerising dance 41 00:02:14,760 --> 00:02:17,040 of the whirling dervishes. 42 00:02:17,080 --> 00:02:19,520 I haven't seen the whirling dervishes before. 43 00:02:19,560 --> 00:02:21,000 Oh, OK. This is your first time? 44 00:02:21,040 --> 00:02:22,120 It is. 45 00:02:22,160 --> 00:02:24,320 It's totally magical. Yeah. 46 00:02:24,360 --> 00:02:27,080 It is... It's like a kind of meditation. 47 00:02:52,400 --> 00:02:54,960 What I've always found fascinating about Turkey 48 00:02:55,000 --> 00:02:59,200 is its rich mix of cultures, which isn't surprising 49 00:02:59,240 --> 00:03:00,920 given its colourful history. 50 00:03:06,640 --> 00:03:11,240 In the 13th century this area was trapped in a power struggle 51 00:03:11,280 --> 00:03:14,760 between the Byzantine Empire to the west 52 00:03:14,800 --> 00:03:18,040 and Mongol forces to the north and the east. 53 00:03:18,080 --> 00:03:22,280 Over time, Mongol invasions had led to the displacement of 54 00:03:22,320 --> 00:03:24,840 Turkish tribes from Central Asia. 55 00:03:24,880 --> 00:03:28,240 They'd been pushed further and further west, 56 00:03:28,280 --> 00:03:34,000 and in the late 13th century a Turkish warlord came to power, 57 00:03:34,040 --> 00:03:37,480 seizing new territory from the Byzantine Empire. 58 00:03:37,520 --> 00:03:39,280 His name was Osman. 59 00:03:39,320 --> 00:03:42,480 He was the founder of the Ottoman dynasty. 60 00:03:42,520 --> 00:03:44,880 His descendants would go on to create one of 61 00:03:44,920 --> 00:03:47,920 the largest empires the world has ever seen, 62 00:03:47,960 --> 00:03:51,040 and it lasted for more than six centuries. 63 00:03:51,080 --> 00:03:55,320 I want to find out more about this empire, how it emerged 64 00:03:55,360 --> 00:03:59,080 and grew, its culture and its legacy. 65 00:03:59,120 --> 00:04:03,040 I'm exploring the Ottoman Empire by train. 66 00:04:05,160 --> 00:04:07,440 My journey starts in Adana, 67 00:04:07,480 --> 00:04:10,560 the gateway into Turkey and Europe from Asia. 68 00:04:10,600 --> 00:04:14,560 Heading west, I cover 800 miles towards Istanbul. 69 00:04:14,600 --> 00:04:17,800 Then I follow the Ottoman trail up into the Balkans 70 00:04:17,840 --> 00:04:20,520 and then Hungary, ending at Budapest, 71 00:04:20,560 --> 00:04:23,880 at the westernmost tip of the empire. 72 00:04:23,920 --> 00:04:29,200 The Ottoman Empire started near the city of Bursa in 1299. 73 00:04:29,240 --> 00:04:33,600 Over 200 years it consumed Greece, Eastern Europe, 74 00:04:33,640 --> 00:04:35,960 North Africa and western Asia, 75 00:04:36,000 --> 00:04:38,720 reaching its peak in the 16th century, 76 00:04:38,760 --> 00:04:43,120 covering an area that now includes 70 countries. 77 00:04:43,160 --> 00:04:45,480 By the end of the First World War, 78 00:04:45,520 --> 00:04:47,400 it had shrunk dramatically. 79 00:04:47,440 --> 00:04:52,440 This is when the Ottoman Empire ended and Turkey became a republic. 80 00:04:58,560 --> 00:05:01,440 So this lovely lady hopped off at the last platform 81 00:05:01,480 --> 00:05:05,000 to fill her kettle up, and she's now plugged her kettle in 82 00:05:05,040 --> 00:05:07,520 and she's making coffee and she's offered me some. 83 00:05:10,040 --> 00:05:14,480 I've never seen anyone boil a kettle on a train before. 84 00:05:14,520 --> 00:05:15,800 Is it ready? 85 00:05:15,840 --> 00:05:16,880 Ah! 86 00:05:16,920 --> 00:05:18,480 Thank you. 87 00:05:20,120 --> 00:05:21,960 So kind! Thank you. 88 00:05:22,000 --> 00:05:23,680 That's enough, that's enough. 89 00:05:23,720 --> 00:05:26,280 Thank you. Tesekkur. 90 00:05:26,320 --> 00:05:28,320 Tesekkur ederim. You are welcome. 91 00:05:28,360 --> 00:05:29,640 Thank you. 92 00:05:29,680 --> 00:05:31,920 That's so kind of you. Thank you. 93 00:05:31,960 --> 00:05:33,800 Making coffee on a train! 94 00:05:33,840 --> 00:05:35,640 Who else wants some coffee? 95 00:05:35,680 --> 00:05:37,720 This lady's going to have some coffee. 96 00:05:47,840 --> 00:05:50,000 It's my first time in Adana, 97 00:05:50,040 --> 00:05:52,360 one of the largest cities in Turkey. 98 00:06:04,520 --> 00:06:07,600 And you can see the Ottoman influence right away in 99 00:06:07,640 --> 00:06:10,360 the city's striking railway station. 100 00:06:11,800 --> 00:06:16,640 It was built in the early 1900s in the last decade of the empire, 101 00:06:16,680 --> 00:06:21,280 embracing the classical 16th century Ottoman architectural design 102 00:06:21,320 --> 00:06:26,080 with its Islamic pointed horseshoe windows and two-colour stonework. 103 00:06:27,920 --> 00:06:29,880 Adana - this is a name which has been used 104 00:06:29,920 --> 00:06:31,960 for at least 4,000 years. 105 00:06:32,000 --> 00:06:35,000 It's there on ancient Hittite tablets. 106 00:06:35,040 --> 00:06:36,480 It's mentioned in the Bible. 107 00:06:36,520 --> 00:06:38,480 It's mentioned in the Epic of Gilgamesh. 108 00:06:38,520 --> 00:06:40,720 It's mentioned in Homer's Iliad. 109 00:06:40,760 --> 00:06:44,600 And today it's a massive city, home to nearly two million people. 110 00:06:48,040 --> 00:06:50,640 DRUMMING AND SINGING 111 00:06:50,680 --> 00:06:54,400 Adana is just 22 miles from the coast, 112 00:06:54,440 --> 00:06:57,760 but the city's importance to the Ottoman Empire lay in 113 00:06:57,800 --> 00:07:01,400 its position on one of the main trade routes between 114 00:07:01,440 --> 00:07:03,440 Asia and Europe. 115 00:07:03,480 --> 00:07:05,560 With its crucial location, 116 00:07:05,600 --> 00:07:09,520 Adana became one of the empire's most prosperous cities. 117 00:07:20,920 --> 00:07:25,800 Today it's a sprawling mix of old and new. 118 00:07:25,840 --> 00:07:30,000 But I'm here to explore the historic Ottoman old town. 119 00:07:35,720 --> 00:07:40,080 My first port of call is hidden behind this impressive gate, 120 00:07:40,120 --> 00:07:42,360 Adana's oldest mosque. 121 00:07:43,520 --> 00:07:47,000 This is a typical Ottoman religious complex, 122 00:07:47,040 --> 00:07:50,040 including a madrasah - or Islamic School - 123 00:07:50,080 --> 00:07:53,520 consisting of a classroom and cells or small bedrooms 124 00:07:53,560 --> 00:07:57,560 for students, surrounding a large courtyard. 125 00:07:57,600 --> 00:07:59,760 These learning centres of learning were banned when 126 00:07:59,800 --> 00:08:03,440 Turkey became a republic, but were hugely important to 127 00:08:03,480 --> 00:08:06,000 the empire's religious way of life. 128 00:08:09,360 --> 00:08:13,480 You come off the busy streets of Adana into this space 129 00:08:13,520 --> 00:08:16,000 and you're straight back into the Middle Ages. 130 00:08:16,040 --> 00:08:19,560 This is the Yag Camii, the Yag Mosque. 131 00:08:19,600 --> 00:08:24,360 But in fact its history goes back much earlier. 132 00:08:24,400 --> 00:08:28,560 It was originally built as a church when Adana was part of 133 00:08:28,600 --> 00:08:31,680 the Armenian Kingdom of Cilicia, 134 00:08:31,720 --> 00:08:36,320 and that was from the 11th to the mid-14th centuries. 135 00:08:36,360 --> 00:08:40,840 The church is somewhere there, underneath this later architecture. 136 00:08:40,880 --> 00:08:45,240 It has been added to and converted into a mosque with this courtyard, 137 00:08:45,280 --> 00:08:49,040 and actually "yag" means "oil" in Turkish, so it's become known 138 00:08:49,080 --> 00:08:51,960 as the Oil Mosque, and then there's an idea that people were selling 139 00:08:52,000 --> 00:08:54,000 olive oil maybe just outside it. 140 00:08:54,040 --> 00:08:58,040 So we've got, encapsulated in this architecture here 141 00:08:58,080 --> 00:09:00,400 but also in the name of the place, 142 00:09:00,440 --> 00:09:03,560 a bit of the medieval history of Adana. 143 00:09:27,480 --> 00:09:30,360 From the brash sunlight of the courtyard, 144 00:09:30,400 --> 00:09:34,080 it's a sharp contrast stepping into the cool contemplative 145 00:09:34,120 --> 00:09:35,480 prayer room... 146 00:09:38,400 --> 00:09:42,400 ..where, in typical Ottoman style, there's a large space 147 00:09:42,440 --> 00:09:45,440 for praying split into safs, or rows, 148 00:09:45,480 --> 00:09:48,840 of arcaded porticos covered by small domes. 149 00:09:56,440 --> 00:10:00,800 The materials are sandstone and limestone from nearby quarries, 150 00:10:00,840 --> 00:10:04,200 and the layout of the room is designed so that worshippers sit in 151 00:10:04,240 --> 00:10:06,120 a row between the columns. 152 00:10:19,040 --> 00:10:22,480 So this is the oldest part of this building. 153 00:10:22,520 --> 00:10:26,000 This is the original medieval church, 154 00:10:26,040 --> 00:10:29,600 and you can see details on the pilasters. 155 00:10:29,640 --> 00:10:32,600 It looks like they've been hacked away a bit, 156 00:10:32,640 --> 00:10:34,280 but you can still see some of that. 157 00:10:34,320 --> 00:10:38,360 What you can't see is any of the paintings, which must have 158 00:10:38,400 --> 00:10:41,240 decorated the walls at the point it was being used 159 00:10:41,280 --> 00:10:43,360 for Christian worship. 160 00:10:43,400 --> 00:10:46,960 At that time the focus of worship would've been in the east - 161 00:10:47,000 --> 00:10:49,040 that's where the altar would have been - 162 00:10:49,080 --> 00:10:51,960 in the apse, in the curved end of the church. 163 00:10:52,000 --> 00:10:56,080 Then, when it becomes transformed into a mosque, this western end 164 00:10:56,120 --> 00:11:00,800 of the building is taken down and the mosque is built, 165 00:11:00,840 --> 00:11:02,440 reusing lots of stone. 166 00:11:02,480 --> 00:11:05,520 You can see all of those pillars are different. 167 00:11:05,560 --> 00:11:07,520 Some of them are marble, some of them are granite. 168 00:11:07,560 --> 00:11:09,600 They're all different shapes and sizes. 169 00:11:09,640 --> 00:11:13,920 And now the focus of worship has also changed. 170 00:11:13,960 --> 00:11:16,720 It was in the east when it was Christian, 171 00:11:16,760 --> 00:11:20,160 and now it's in the south 172 00:11:20,200 --> 00:11:24,040 because Muslims have to pray facing Mecca. 173 00:11:39,000 --> 00:11:42,040 It's intriguing trying to imagine the city of Adana at 174 00:11:42,080 --> 00:11:44,320 the height of the Ottoman Empire, 175 00:11:44,360 --> 00:11:47,760 encircled by fortified stone walls, and within it - 176 00:11:47,800 --> 00:11:50,440 just like today - would be the bazaar, 177 00:11:50,480 --> 00:11:55,440 a market area, buzzing with traders, entertainers and food stalls 178 00:11:55,480 --> 00:11:59,120 where people would gather to put the world to rights. 179 00:11:59,160 --> 00:12:01,720 It's where I'm meeting Beliz Sahin, 180 00:12:01,760 --> 00:12:05,160 a researcher at the local university, to get a feel for 181 00:12:05,200 --> 00:12:08,640 what life in the city would've been like under Ottoman rule. 182 00:12:08,680 --> 00:12:10,720 Hi! Hello! 183 00:12:10,760 --> 00:12:13,520 Oh, it's lovely to meet you. Yeah, for me too. Thank you. 184 00:12:13,560 --> 00:12:17,120 In the historic bazaar of Adana. Yes, we are in the historic core 185 00:12:17,160 --> 00:12:19,200 of Adana - it's the Grand Bazaar. 186 00:12:19,240 --> 00:12:21,200 So this is the heart of the city, 187 00:12:21,240 --> 00:12:24,600 and we're coming out now onto this street... Actually, 188 00:12:24,640 --> 00:12:27,760 we are in the complex of Ramadanid Emirate. 189 00:12:27,800 --> 00:12:30,480 They built this complex in the 16th century. Yeah. 190 00:12:30,520 --> 00:12:33,240 They will all have different a building type. 191 00:12:33,280 --> 00:12:35,680 This is the baths, this is the bazaar, 192 00:12:35,720 --> 00:12:40,600 and when we go this way we'll see the Grand Mosque, 193 00:12:40,640 --> 00:12:42,520 we'll see the madrasah there. 194 00:12:42,560 --> 00:12:48,720 These are all the parts of a classic complex built in Ottoman Empire. 195 00:12:48,760 --> 00:12:50,960 So we've got some elements that go back centuries 196 00:12:51,000 --> 00:12:53,680 and then we've got this... Yes. ..which is the famous clock tower 197 00:12:53,720 --> 00:12:55,800 which is a bit later. Yeah, it's later. 198 00:12:55,840 --> 00:12:58,440 It's at the end of the 19th century. 199 00:12:58,480 --> 00:13:03,400 It's built... They started building in 1881 and ended in 1882. 200 00:13:03,440 --> 00:13:07,000 It was built in the time of Abdul Hamid II, 201 00:13:07,040 --> 00:13:10,520 and it is built for the purpose of the public to see 202 00:13:10,560 --> 00:13:14,120 what time it is, for work and prayer times... Oh, OK. 203 00:13:14,160 --> 00:13:18,960 ..because the public didn't have a watch, so they see the...time. 204 00:13:19,000 --> 00:13:21,200 So it's to make sure people get to work on time 205 00:13:21,240 --> 00:13:23,520 and also make sure they go to the mosque at the right time as well. 206 00:13:23,560 --> 00:13:27,160 Yes. It's important for them. Yeah. 207 00:13:27,200 --> 00:13:29,920 The clock tower might be a recent addition, 208 00:13:29,960 --> 00:13:33,360 but the layout of important buildings in the centre of Adana 209 00:13:33,400 --> 00:13:37,000 mirrors that of many other cities built by the Ottomans, 210 00:13:37,040 --> 00:13:42,680 which included a Turkish bath, a bazaar, and a Grand Mosque. 211 00:13:47,960 --> 00:13:51,240 I think Turkey is such a fascinating place because it sits here 212 00:13:51,280 --> 00:13:55,760 with Europe if we face west, Asia to the east, 213 00:13:55,800 --> 00:13:58,200 the Middle East and Africa to the south. Mm-hm. 214 00:13:58,240 --> 00:14:00,400 And you've got all these different cultures - 215 00:14:00,440 --> 00:14:01,680 it really is at a crossroads. 216 00:14:01,720 --> 00:14:05,080 And Adana in particular seems to be a bit of a frontier town. 217 00:14:05,120 --> 00:14:10,720 Yes, yes. As its location, it's like a gate from East to West. 218 00:14:10,760 --> 00:14:14,240 So we can see the interaction with so many nations, 219 00:14:14,280 --> 00:14:16,520 so many cultures, and they're living here. Yeah. 220 00:14:16,560 --> 00:14:21,440 So when you look at the city, it is very easy to see 221 00:14:21,480 --> 00:14:23,960 their effects on buildings. 222 00:14:24,000 --> 00:14:27,080 We know that there were many churches in the past. 223 00:14:27,120 --> 00:14:30,960 There was an Eastern Orthodox church, a Catholic church, 224 00:14:31,000 --> 00:14:33,720 a Protestant church, Gregorian church. 225 00:14:33,760 --> 00:14:38,480 But in time, when the non-Muslim community started to leave the city, 226 00:14:38,520 --> 00:14:41,560 these churches turned back to cultural centres, 227 00:14:41,600 --> 00:14:43,680 museums, or mosques sometimes. Yeah. 228 00:14:43,720 --> 00:14:48,760 So when does Adana become part of the expanding Ottoman Empire? 229 00:14:48,800 --> 00:14:52,360 We can say that in the 16th century we see Ottoman Empire here. 230 00:14:52,400 --> 00:14:55,960 And in the 17th, 18th centuries it still goes on, 231 00:14:56,000 --> 00:14:59,320 and we see the reflections of the empire in different places. 232 00:14:59,360 --> 00:15:02,080 Yeah. I mean, it's fantastic going to see the oldest mosque. 233 00:15:02,120 --> 00:15:05,720 I've been to see the Yag Camii. Yes, Yag Mosque. The old mosque, 234 00:15:05,760 --> 00:15:07,400 the Yag Mosque. Yag Camii, yeah. 235 00:15:07,440 --> 00:15:10,880 And to see that it was originally a basilica with that apse 236 00:15:10,920 --> 00:15:14,000 at the end... Yeah. ..with the mosque then added a bit later on, 237 00:15:14,040 --> 00:15:16,920 so you've kind of got that history written into the stone, 238 00:15:16,960 --> 00:15:18,520 written in the architecture. Yes. 239 00:15:18,560 --> 00:15:22,480 And this is your passion, looking for history in architecture. 240 00:15:22,520 --> 00:15:25,680 Yes, because in every detail you can find a story, 241 00:15:25,720 --> 00:15:29,840 and when you find the story you feel more connected to the city. 242 00:15:29,880 --> 00:15:32,280 You know the history, you know where it is coming from, 243 00:15:32,320 --> 00:15:35,400 and maybe you can have an assumption, like, where it will go, 244 00:15:35,440 --> 00:15:39,920 you can have an idea. Yeah. And I think it is important to have. 245 00:15:39,960 --> 00:15:44,280 With its characteristic architecture and cross-cultural influences, 246 00:15:44,320 --> 00:15:47,680 Adana has been the perfect introduction to my journey 247 00:15:47,720 --> 00:15:49,840 discovering the Ottoman Empire. 248 00:15:58,640 --> 00:16:03,040 I'm in the historic city of Adana in central-southern Turkey, 249 00:16:03,080 --> 00:16:08,080 discovering the long-held secrets of the Ottoman Empire. 250 00:16:08,120 --> 00:16:11,640 Among them are some world-famous delicacies, 251 00:16:11,680 --> 00:16:15,240 including a particular favourite of mine. 252 00:16:15,280 --> 00:16:17,320 Merhaba. Merhaba. 253 00:16:17,360 --> 00:16:18,440 Tahini! 254 00:16:18,480 --> 00:16:20,120 Yes. You're making tahini here? 255 00:16:20,160 --> 00:16:23,640 Original. So you've got a big vat of sesame seeds. Yes. 256 00:16:24,800 --> 00:16:27,320 It's a simple recipe. 257 00:16:27,360 --> 00:16:31,960 The sesame seeds are ground into a liquid to produce the condiment. 258 00:16:33,600 --> 00:16:34,920 Do you want this? 259 00:16:34,960 --> 00:16:36,200 Oh, yes, please. 260 00:16:36,240 --> 00:16:38,120 Fresh tahini. 261 00:16:38,160 --> 00:16:39,920 Amazing. 262 00:16:39,960 --> 00:16:41,840 Tesekkur. 263 00:16:41,880 --> 00:16:44,840 At home I've used it to make humous and salad dressings, 264 00:16:44,880 --> 00:16:47,440 but I've never tasted it quite this fresh. 265 00:16:47,480 --> 00:16:49,680 Gosh, that's so good. That's so delicious. 266 00:16:49,720 --> 00:16:51,120 Fresh out of the mill, amazing. 267 00:16:51,160 --> 00:16:52,600 And you make Turkish Delight here? 268 00:16:52,640 --> 00:16:55,080 Yes, welcome. Yeah? 269 00:16:55,120 --> 00:16:57,480 So all of these different ones... 270 00:16:57,520 --> 00:17:00,720 Rose petals, pistachios. 271 00:17:00,760 --> 00:17:02,680 Yeah. That's walnut. 272 00:17:02,720 --> 00:17:05,760 Lovely. Chocolate, kiraz... 273 00:17:05,800 --> 00:17:07,880 So many different varieties. 274 00:17:07,920 --> 00:17:10,120 It's lovely. 275 00:17:10,160 --> 00:17:13,160 The delicacy is believed to have been invented in 276 00:17:13,200 --> 00:17:16,800 Ottoman kitchens over 500 years ago, 277 00:17:16,840 --> 00:17:19,360 when the ruling Sultan, Abdul Hamid I, 278 00:17:19,400 --> 00:17:22,640 was struggling to keep his many wives happy. 279 00:17:22,680 --> 00:17:26,000 He summoned his chefs to come up with an irresistible sweet 280 00:17:26,040 --> 00:17:30,120 to win their hearts, and they created Turkish Delight. 281 00:17:31,280 --> 00:17:33,160 And this is where you make it? 282 00:17:34,600 --> 00:17:36,080 Oh, look at that! 283 00:17:37,800 --> 00:17:38,880 Can I come in? 284 00:17:39,880 --> 00:17:41,360 Yeah? SHE GASPS 285 00:17:41,400 --> 00:17:43,040 LAUGHTER 286 00:17:43,080 --> 00:17:44,200 Turkish Delight? 287 00:17:44,240 --> 00:17:45,640 Yeah. 288 00:17:48,120 --> 00:17:50,760 Oh, wow. Look at that. 289 00:17:50,800 --> 00:17:54,520 Almonds, hazelnuts, pistachios. 290 00:17:54,560 --> 00:17:56,920 Bomba, bomba... 291 00:17:56,960 --> 00:18:00,080 This sweet dessert is simply a mix of sugar syrup 292 00:18:00,120 --> 00:18:03,760 and cornflower that's cooked to create a sticky jelly, 293 00:18:03,800 --> 00:18:07,840 and it can be left plain or have additions like pomegranate, 294 00:18:07,880 --> 00:18:09,600 rose petals or nuts. 295 00:18:11,360 --> 00:18:14,560 A great big mass of sticky Turkish Delight that's absolutely 296 00:18:14,600 --> 00:18:18,200 full of almonds, hazelnuts, pistachios. 297 00:18:20,120 --> 00:18:21,360 This is just fantastic. 298 00:18:21,400 --> 00:18:24,080 I've wandered into this shop, and it's extraordinary - 299 00:18:24,120 --> 00:18:26,240 look at that huge vat. 300 00:18:26,280 --> 00:18:28,440 It's coming. It's coming! 301 00:18:28,480 --> 00:18:30,920 Quick! SHE LAUGHS 302 00:18:33,480 --> 00:18:36,160 Two massive trays of Turkish Delight. 303 00:18:42,040 --> 00:18:44,080 Thank you so much. Tesekkur ederim! 304 00:18:44,120 --> 00:18:45,680 Tesekkur ederim. 305 00:18:53,800 --> 00:18:56,080 Well, that's been a very welcome start 306 00:18:56,120 --> 00:18:58,200 to my second day in Adana. 307 00:18:58,240 --> 00:19:01,160 But I'm keen to get back to uncovering the Ottomans' 308 00:19:01,200 --> 00:19:05,120 architectural legacy in the city. 309 00:19:05,160 --> 00:19:08,600 There's one place I want to visit that exemplifies this, 310 00:19:08,640 --> 00:19:11,080 and one you can't fail to notice - 311 00:19:11,120 --> 00:19:14,200 the majestic Sabanci Central Mosque. 312 00:19:16,400 --> 00:19:18,560 Set on the banks of the Seyhan River, 313 00:19:18,600 --> 00:19:21,240 you can see it from almost anywhere in the city, 314 00:19:21,280 --> 00:19:25,880 with its six minarets climbing into the sky. 315 00:19:25,920 --> 00:19:30,640 It's designed in the style of the famous Ottoman architect Sinan, 316 00:19:30,680 --> 00:19:34,160 and is now one of Adana's most iconic attractions. 317 00:19:44,600 --> 00:19:47,240 Well, this is enormous. 318 00:19:47,280 --> 00:19:48,800 What a beautiful mosque. 319 00:19:50,040 --> 00:19:53,920 It's quite new - it's only about 25 years old. 320 00:19:53,960 --> 00:19:57,120 But it's definitely got that kind of Ottoman flavour to it. 321 00:20:01,360 --> 00:20:03,920 The Ottomans were followers of Islam, 322 00:20:03,960 --> 00:20:07,000 a religious heritage that is even stronger today 323 00:20:07,040 --> 00:20:11,560 with almost 99% of the Turkish population being Muslims. 324 00:20:13,560 --> 00:20:16,920 There has been renewed investment in religious institutions, 325 00:20:16,960 --> 00:20:20,080 and this Grand Mosque was opened in 1998, 326 00:20:20,120 --> 00:20:23,440 after a ten-year build beset with problems. 327 00:20:23,480 --> 00:20:26,280 Its foundations sit on the ancient riverbed. 328 00:20:27,480 --> 00:20:29,120 But it was well worth the wait 329 00:20:29,160 --> 00:20:32,240 as it's now the second largest mosque in Turkey 330 00:20:32,280 --> 00:20:37,080 and can fit an incredible 28,500 worshippers. 331 00:20:42,720 --> 00:20:47,800 The main dome is huge, with a diameter of 32 metres 332 00:20:47,840 --> 00:20:51,320 at a height of 54 metres from floor to ceiling. 333 00:20:53,040 --> 00:20:56,360 The measurements used in the mosque's construction reflect 334 00:20:56,400 --> 00:20:59,320 important numbers in Islamic belief, 335 00:20:59,360 --> 00:21:04,240 with its six minarets specifically built to the height of 99 metres, 336 00:21:04,280 --> 00:21:07,400 reflecting the 99 names of Allah. 337 00:21:07,440 --> 00:21:11,240 And I'm taking my life into my hands to scale one of them. 338 00:21:16,640 --> 00:21:17,680 Well, this is incredibly narrow. 339 00:21:20,000 --> 00:21:23,040 Got to take the steps. 340 00:21:23,080 --> 00:21:25,880 Traditionally the Imam would climb all these steps to 341 00:21:25,920 --> 00:21:28,760 a platform where he would perform the call to prayer, 342 00:21:28,800 --> 00:21:30,800 that would echo across the city. 343 00:21:32,560 --> 00:21:34,640 Getting my steps in today. 344 00:21:38,000 --> 00:21:39,680 Oh, now it's gone really dark. 345 00:21:47,720 --> 00:21:50,520 I wish I'd counted these steps! 346 00:21:50,560 --> 00:21:54,600 Oh, hang on a bit of light a lot of light. 347 00:21:57,000 --> 00:21:58,320 OK. 348 00:22:00,080 --> 00:22:07,600 OK. Oh, wow, look at that view. That's amazing, 349 00:22:07,640 --> 00:22:12,520 what a beautiful bridge. Well, the steps are worth it. 350 00:22:13,720 --> 00:22:18,520 Wow, right over Adana, 351 00:22:18,560 --> 00:22:21,720 which is a huge city, 352 00:22:21,760 --> 00:22:23,600 And this beautiful new mosque, 353 00:22:23,640 --> 00:22:26,360 I've been inside looking up at that dome, 354 00:22:26,400 --> 00:22:28,960 it's quite extraordinary to be looking down on it 355 00:22:29,000 --> 00:22:35,160 and I'm up one of its six minarets, they're each 99 metres high. 356 00:22:35,200 --> 00:22:38,320 It's fine looking out, 357 00:22:38,360 --> 00:22:42,560 but it's a little bit nerve-racking looking down. Oh! 358 00:22:45,240 --> 00:22:48,240 Now the imams don't walk up all those stairs 359 00:22:48,280 --> 00:22:50,520 to do their call to prayer any more, 360 00:22:50,560 --> 00:22:52,440 they stay down the bottom 361 00:22:52,480 --> 00:22:56,240 and it comes out through these loud speakers - it's pretty sensible. 362 00:23:05,320 --> 00:23:07,680 Oh, what a view, oh, 363 00:23:07,720 --> 00:23:09,360 there was a lift here all along. 364 00:23:13,680 --> 00:23:14,760 A broken elevator. 365 00:23:17,400 --> 00:23:19,520 Hmm, even if it was working, 366 00:23:19,560 --> 00:23:21,800 I think it was probably safer to use my legs, 367 00:23:21,840 --> 00:23:24,320 I wouldn't fancy my chances getting stuck halfway up 368 00:23:24,360 --> 00:23:25,720 a minaret. 369 00:23:27,760 --> 00:23:30,720 There are many ancient sites in this city that date to 370 00:23:30,760 --> 00:23:32,520 the time of the Ottomans, 371 00:23:32,560 --> 00:23:36,440 but the might of the Empire lay on the foundations of 372 00:23:36,480 --> 00:23:39,040 an earlier superpower. 373 00:23:39,080 --> 00:23:42,240 This ancient stone bridge was first built by 374 00:23:42,280 --> 00:23:46,680 the Romans, ordered by the Emperor Hadrian, no less. 375 00:23:46,720 --> 00:23:48,160 For centuries, 376 00:23:48,200 --> 00:23:51,120 it was the only way to get across the Seyhan River, 377 00:23:51,160 --> 00:23:53,040 without getting your feet wet. 378 00:23:53,080 --> 00:23:54,760 As a strategic crossing point, 379 00:23:54,800 --> 00:23:58,520 this old bridge was of huge importance to the Ottomans. 380 00:23:58,560 --> 00:24:01,040 To tell me how the Turks capitalised on it, 381 00:24:01,080 --> 00:24:04,120 I've met up with Professor Duygu Saban. 382 00:24:04,160 --> 00:24:06,400 We're getting a fantastic view of the bridge here, 383 00:24:06,440 --> 00:24:08,800 I mean, some of that stone work must be original? 384 00:24:08,840 --> 00:24:12,600 Presumably it's been redeveloped and renovated over time, 385 00:24:12,640 --> 00:24:14,560 but some of that must be Roman. 386 00:24:14,600 --> 00:24:18,200 Most of them, at least 80% is Roman. 387 00:24:18,240 --> 00:24:22,360 The newly constructed ones is the upper parts. 388 00:24:22,400 --> 00:24:24,160 Just this paler stone? 389 00:24:24,200 --> 00:24:26,640 Yeah, the paler one. Along the parapet. Yeah. 390 00:24:26,680 --> 00:24:28,360 In history documents we couldn't 391 00:24:28,400 --> 00:24:33,000 find records of it being demolished by the floods or 392 00:24:33,040 --> 00:24:35,720 by earthquakes or anything like that. 393 00:24:35,760 --> 00:24:38,480 So you think it's been standing since the Roman period? 394 00:24:38,520 --> 00:24:40,040 Yes, certainly, 395 00:24:40,080 --> 00:24:42,600 certainly there are no records of its demolition, 396 00:24:42,640 --> 00:24:45,360 but there are some modifications. 397 00:24:45,400 --> 00:24:49,320 We can see less arches than it used to be. 398 00:24:49,360 --> 00:24:51,000 Originally, 399 00:24:51,040 --> 00:24:54,200 there were 21 arches, now we can see only 14. 400 00:24:54,240 --> 00:24:56,200 Uh, the river bed was much larger. 401 00:24:56,240 --> 00:24:58,400 So, it would've been much longer. 402 00:24:58,440 --> 00:25:01,120 Yeah, it was much longer. Yeah. 403 00:25:01,160 --> 00:25:03,680 So we're really just looking at the middle of this ancient bridge. 404 00:25:03,720 --> 00:25:05,600 Yeah, yeah. 405 00:25:05,640 --> 00:25:07,960 People would have crossed this bridge then 406 00:25:08,000 --> 00:25:09,760 and entered the city. 407 00:25:09,800 --> 00:25:12,120 Yes. This would have been the city wall just here, would it? 408 00:25:12,160 --> 00:25:13,720 Exactly, 409 00:25:13,760 --> 00:25:16,240 and every Friday, people from 410 00:25:16,280 --> 00:25:19,160 the countryside would bring their food 411 00:25:19,200 --> 00:25:24,160 and animals to sell and to also buy things. 412 00:25:24,200 --> 00:25:28,160 And as you know Friday is sacred for Islam 413 00:25:28,200 --> 00:25:32,920 because you pray in the Friday mosque on Fridays 414 00:25:32,960 --> 00:25:35,680 and it has to be the Grand Mosque. 415 00:25:35,720 --> 00:25:39,320 Yeah, so you're coming to market but you're also going to pray. 416 00:25:39,360 --> 00:25:40,880 Yeah, you come to market, 417 00:25:40,920 --> 00:25:44,400 you pray and you have, and you go to hammam, 418 00:25:44,440 --> 00:25:49,400 bath, you get cleaned up and then you pray 419 00:25:49,440 --> 00:25:51,360 and then you buy your stuff 420 00:25:51,400 --> 00:25:54,640 and go back to your village. Yeah. 421 00:25:54,680 --> 00:25:58,200 And so, it was until 1990s, 422 00:25:58,240 --> 00:26:00,400 almost. It was the same, yes. Really? 423 00:26:00,440 --> 00:26:02,000 That still, 424 00:26:02,040 --> 00:26:04,720 that rhythm of life which had carried on for centuries. 425 00:26:04,760 --> 00:26:06,320 Yes. 426 00:26:06,360 --> 00:26:07,760 It was a key point then, 427 00:26:07,800 --> 00:26:09,960 it was a key crossing point on this river. 428 00:26:10,000 --> 00:26:11,480 Definitely a very strategic 429 00:26:11,520 --> 00:26:13,680 and very important point for 430 00:26:13,720 --> 00:26:16,600 the Silk Route as well. Yeah. And the trade routes. 431 00:26:16,640 --> 00:26:19,880 So it's always, it's on the silk roads, 432 00:26:19,920 --> 00:26:23,000 it's on that important route between East and West. And it still is. 433 00:26:23,040 --> 00:26:25,840 The Ottoman Empire accumulated wealth 434 00:26:25,880 --> 00:26:29,960 and power by controlling the lucrative silk roads. 435 00:26:30,000 --> 00:26:34,360 These trade routes spanned 4,000 miles from China, 436 00:26:34,400 --> 00:26:37,080 through the Middle East into Southern Europe. 437 00:26:37,120 --> 00:26:40,200 Along these routes huge volumes of wool, 438 00:26:40,240 --> 00:26:44,040 gold, silver and spices could be traded between the East 439 00:26:44,080 --> 00:26:47,760 and West, with profits flowing into the Empire's coffers. 440 00:26:51,040 --> 00:26:52,520 Tomorrow, 441 00:26:52,560 --> 00:26:55,760 I'm back on the train to continue my Ottoman journey 442 00:26:55,800 --> 00:26:58,320 and I'll be heading into the mountains 443 00:26:58,360 --> 00:27:00,160 to understand more about 444 00:27:00,200 --> 00:27:02,560 the history of this unique corner of the globe. 445 00:27:14,240 --> 00:27:17,640 It's early morning, and time for me to leave Adana for 446 00:27:17,680 --> 00:27:20,280 the next leg of my Ottoman adventure, 447 00:27:20,320 --> 00:27:25,720 learning about the origins of the empire and what preceded it. 448 00:27:25,760 --> 00:27:27,200 And I'm hoping my smattering 449 00:27:27,240 --> 00:27:29,280 of Turkish will get me the ticket I need. 450 00:27:35,800 --> 00:27:39,600 Merhaba. Konya bir bilet. 451 00:27:39,640 --> 00:27:41,200 SPEAKS TURKISH 452 00:27:43,800 --> 00:27:45,760 What is your name? 453 00:27:45,800 --> 00:27:47,280 Alice. 454 00:27:47,320 --> 00:27:49,480 Ah, well, it was worth a try. 455 00:27:51,520 --> 00:27:53,080 Tesekkur ederim. 456 00:27:56,000 --> 00:28:01,160 My destination is 166 miles north-west of Adana, 457 00:28:01,200 --> 00:28:03,960 the religious city of Konya. 458 00:28:04,000 --> 00:28:07,440 And I'm taking the Taurus Express, which is named after 459 00:28:07,480 --> 00:28:08,680 the magnificent range 460 00:28:08,720 --> 00:28:11,040 of mountains it passes through. 461 00:28:36,400 --> 00:28:39,160 Oh, wow, look at that, lovely. 462 00:28:41,680 --> 00:28:44,760 We're into the foothills of the Taurus Mountains 463 00:28:44,800 --> 00:28:47,760 and as we rise up through the Taurus Mountains, 464 00:28:47,800 --> 00:28:51,160 the terrain gets fairly difficult for a railway 465 00:28:51,200 --> 00:28:52,760 to traverse. 466 00:28:52,800 --> 00:28:56,800 And in the early 20th century Europe was hungry for oil. 467 00:28:56,840 --> 00:28:59,280 It wanted the oil from the Middle East. 468 00:28:59,320 --> 00:29:02,360 Germany in particular wanted that oil 469 00:29:02,400 --> 00:29:04,080 and they invested in 470 00:29:04,120 --> 00:29:06,720 a railway running from Baghdad in Iraq, 471 00:29:06,760 --> 00:29:09,800 which was then under German control, all the way 472 00:29:09,840 --> 00:29:12,600 to Istanbul and then on to Berlin. 473 00:29:12,640 --> 00:29:15,680 And as part of that railway, they needed to cross 474 00:29:15,720 --> 00:29:18,000 a particularly deep gorge 475 00:29:18,040 --> 00:29:21,560 and they built the Varda Viaduct. 476 00:29:21,600 --> 00:29:24,720 Now this viaduct is 172 metres long, 477 00:29:24,760 --> 00:29:28,120 it's 98 metres tall. 478 00:29:28,160 --> 00:29:29,800 It's quite iconic 479 00:29:29,840 --> 00:29:32,920 for James Bond fans - you might recognise it from 480 00:29:32,960 --> 00:29:35,240 the opening scenes of Skyfall. 481 00:30:02,200 --> 00:30:06,000 Aww. I got a lovely view of that, just looking back, 482 00:30:06,040 --> 00:30:08,360 fantastic viaduct over a really, 483 00:30:08,400 --> 00:30:09,960 really deep gorge 484 00:30:10,000 --> 00:30:12,280 and now we really are getting up into 485 00:30:12,320 --> 00:30:13,800 the Taurus Mountains. 486 00:30:13,840 --> 00:30:15,800 We've risen up as we've come up from 487 00:30:15,840 --> 00:30:18,800 Adana about 1,000 metres above sea level. 488 00:30:26,320 --> 00:30:29,440 The Taurus Mountains separate the Mediterranean coast from 489 00:30:29,480 --> 00:30:31,800 the central Anatolian plateau. 490 00:30:33,240 --> 00:30:37,800 The highest peak rises more than 4,000 metres above sea level and 491 00:30:37,840 --> 00:30:41,560 the mountains are the source of two famous rivers, 492 00:30:41,600 --> 00:30:43,960 the Euphrates and the Tigris. 493 00:30:47,000 --> 00:30:50,400 It's a wonderful landscape dotted with waterfalls, 494 00:30:50,440 --> 00:30:53,880 with underground rivers and the largest caves in Asia. 495 00:30:58,520 --> 00:31:02,080 After passing through the dramatic Taurus Mountain range, 496 00:31:02,120 --> 00:31:05,680 it's another five hours before we reach Konya. 497 00:31:06,880 --> 00:31:10,040 And it is an awe-inspiring journey across miles 498 00:31:10,080 --> 00:31:14,480 and miles of the stunning landscape of the Central Anatolian plain. 499 00:31:29,000 --> 00:31:30,800 It's now early afternoon 500 00:31:30,840 --> 00:31:34,120 and I've finally made it to Central Anatolia 501 00:31:34,160 --> 00:31:36,360 and ancient Konya. 502 00:31:36,400 --> 00:31:39,840 But before I begin to explore the city's Ottoman past, 503 00:31:39,880 --> 00:31:43,000 I'm interested in seeing what preceded it. 504 00:31:43,040 --> 00:31:44,800 Hello, Merhaba. 505 00:31:44,840 --> 00:31:46,560 HE REPLIES IN TURKISH 506 00:31:46,600 --> 00:31:48,760 I want to go to Catalhoyuk. 507 00:31:52,640 --> 00:31:55,840 I'm heading out to the dusty plains around Konya, 508 00:31:55,880 --> 00:31:57,680 and the world heritage site 509 00:31:57,720 --> 00:32:01,080 of Catalhoyuk, which doesn't look like much from here. 510 00:32:03,320 --> 00:32:05,840 I'm meeting Dr Ali Turkcan, 511 00:32:05,880 --> 00:32:09,680 the excavation director who started digging here 30 years ago as 512 00:32:09,720 --> 00:32:12,040 a student. 513 00:32:12,080 --> 00:32:15,240 Hi, Alice. Hello, you know, I've wanted to... 514 00:32:15,280 --> 00:32:17,200 Welcome to Catalhoyuk. 515 00:32:17,240 --> 00:32:21,640 I've wanted to come here for so many years - this is amazing. Yeah. 516 00:32:23,040 --> 00:32:25,960 Catalhoyuk was discovered 65 years ago 517 00:32:26,000 --> 00:32:29,200 by British archaeologist, James Mellaart, who, 518 00:32:29,240 --> 00:32:30,760 in 1958, 519 00:32:30,800 --> 00:32:34,040 spotted a mound on the dusty Konya plain and, 520 00:32:34,080 --> 00:32:36,920 despite everyone saying there was nothing out there, 521 00:32:36,960 --> 00:32:39,680 Mellaart began excavating... 522 00:32:40,720 --> 00:32:42,400 ..and he put Turkey on 523 00:32:42,440 --> 00:32:47,320 the map of early civilisation by revealing this extraordinary 524 00:32:47,360 --> 00:32:48,920 prehistoric settlement. 525 00:32:51,080 --> 00:32:52,640 When did it start? 526 00:32:52,680 --> 00:32:56,880 It started in 7,100 BC. 527 00:32:56,920 --> 00:32:58,200 OK. 528 00:32:58,240 --> 00:33:00,480 According to the radiocarbon. The buildings, 529 00:33:00,520 --> 00:33:02,680 some buildings, are just on top 530 00:33:02,720 --> 00:33:05,520 of each other, they are following each other, 531 00:33:05,560 --> 00:33:09,160 it's a very custom in central Anatolia. 532 00:33:09,200 --> 00:33:12,240 So you can imagine generations and generations of people 533 00:33:12,280 --> 00:33:14,480 and gradually it gets higher and higher. 534 00:33:14,520 --> 00:33:18,240 These houses, over 50 years, the timespan. 535 00:33:18,280 --> 00:33:19,760 Yeah. 536 00:33:19,800 --> 00:33:24,000 But we found 70 burials here. It's very extraordinary. 537 00:33:24,040 --> 00:33:27,280 70 burials in one house? Yes, 70 burials in one house. 538 00:33:27,320 --> 00:33:29,200 When we think about burials 539 00:33:29,240 --> 00:33:31,680 and particularly in later periods we, 540 00:33:31,720 --> 00:33:34,160 we're used to cemeteries being separate from settlement sites. 541 00:33:34,200 --> 00:33:37,200 Um, yeah. Sometimes very close, but not in them. 542 00:33:37,240 --> 00:33:38,400 Not in them 543 00:33:38,440 --> 00:33:40,680 but it's a Neolithic custom it's a Neolithic custom, 544 00:33:40,720 --> 00:33:43,400 and then they are living here. Yeah. That's why... 545 00:33:43,440 --> 00:33:46,440 So it's not like a building that goes out of use 546 00:33:46,480 --> 00:33:48,440 and then becomes used as 547 00:33:48,480 --> 00:33:51,920 a small cemetery - they're still living in it, at the same time. 548 00:33:51,960 --> 00:33:53,640 Yeah, sure, 549 00:33:53,680 --> 00:33:56,600 sure, probably for a short duration time, 550 00:33:56,640 --> 00:33:58,320 probably they, ah, 551 00:33:58,360 --> 00:34:02,120 left the houses because you can imagine the smell. 552 00:34:02,160 --> 00:34:03,560 At its height, 553 00:34:03,600 --> 00:34:05,840 how many people do you think lived here? 554 00:34:05,880 --> 00:34:07,440 It's over 7,000 people. 555 00:34:07,480 --> 00:34:09,160 7,000 people. 556 00:34:09,200 --> 00:34:10,800 Lived together because... 557 00:34:10,840 --> 00:34:12,640 So that's more than a village. 558 00:34:12,680 --> 00:34:14,960 It's a 14-hectare area. 559 00:34:15,000 --> 00:34:18,560 14 hectares, so it's huge, a huge site. 560 00:34:18,600 --> 00:34:21,480 It's a huge area. Is it, it's not a village? 561 00:34:21,520 --> 00:34:23,920 It is... Is it reasonable to call it... 562 00:34:23,960 --> 00:34:25,720 2% of the area, here. 563 00:34:25,760 --> 00:34:27,560 This is 2%? 564 00:34:27,600 --> 00:34:29,240 Almost. This bit here is 2%? 565 00:34:29,280 --> 00:34:31,040 That's crazy. Yeah. 566 00:34:31,080 --> 00:34:32,480 I mean, absolutely massive... 567 00:34:32,520 --> 00:34:36,280 Is it reasonable to call it a city? Or a proto city? 568 00:34:36,320 --> 00:34:38,480 Proto city, yes. Yeah, yeah. 569 00:34:38,520 --> 00:34:40,680 We can, we should, we should say proto city. 570 00:34:40,720 --> 00:34:42,640 So this is a beginning of urban living? 571 00:34:42,680 --> 00:34:43,960 Of course. Yes. 572 00:34:44,000 --> 00:34:47,000 Yeah, yeah, and they are presumably. You know, 573 00:34:47,040 --> 00:34:49,800 they are farmers. They are, they're farming 574 00:34:49,840 --> 00:34:52,440 the surrounding countryside, they're bringing in resources from 575 00:34:52,480 --> 00:34:54,080 elsewhere, 576 00:34:54,120 --> 00:34:56,440 I mean, presumably they are materially rich, 577 00:34:56,480 --> 00:34:59,360 then? They can acquire exotic materials? 578 00:34:59,400 --> 00:35:01,920 Exotic materials, uh-huh. 579 00:35:01,960 --> 00:35:03,760 And from the burials, 580 00:35:03,800 --> 00:35:08,760 burials can be different, in some burials you can't find anything, 581 00:35:08,800 --> 00:35:12,440 but in some burials, they are furnished with 582 00:35:12,480 --> 00:35:14,960 so many materials, obsidian mirrors, daggers. 583 00:35:15,000 --> 00:35:17,480 So if you've got the difference in burials... 584 00:35:17,520 --> 00:35:19,400 Some people being buried with nothing, 585 00:35:19,440 --> 00:35:20,800 you've got other people being buried 586 00:35:20,840 --> 00:35:23,280 with objects including exotic materials. Yes. 587 00:35:23,320 --> 00:35:25,840 Do you think that's showing social stratification? 588 00:35:25,880 --> 00:35:28,080 Do you think it's showing that there are some people that are more 589 00:35:28,120 --> 00:35:29,440 important than others? 590 00:35:29,480 --> 00:35:32,480 Probably, at the base level there was a social stratification 591 00:35:32,520 --> 00:35:37,000 and when you imagine 5,000 people together, probably there were 592 00:35:37,040 --> 00:35:39,760 stratification, uh-hm. Yeah. 593 00:35:52,400 --> 00:35:54,120 Although they've only excavated 594 00:35:54,160 --> 00:35:57,120 a fraction of this extraordinary settlement 595 00:35:57,160 --> 00:35:59,200 the archaeologists have been able to create 596 00:35:59,240 --> 00:36:01,240 a reconstruction of what part 597 00:36:01,280 --> 00:36:04,440 of Catalhoyuk would have been like 9,000 years ago. 598 00:36:10,240 --> 00:36:12,680 These houses were clustered together in 599 00:36:12,720 --> 00:36:14,520 a honeycomb-like maze 600 00:36:14,560 --> 00:36:17,480 and could be accessed through the roof, 601 00:36:17,520 --> 00:36:20,480 with the rooftops acting like streets. 602 00:36:20,520 --> 00:36:22,200 They were built without windows, 603 00:36:22,240 --> 00:36:25,080 they had one large living room for the family, 604 00:36:25,120 --> 00:36:27,440 complete with a fireplace, beds, 605 00:36:27,480 --> 00:36:29,080 raised platforms 606 00:36:29,120 --> 00:36:32,400 and plastered walls decorated with murals, 607 00:36:32,440 --> 00:36:34,720 and burials inside the houses. 608 00:36:38,680 --> 00:36:41,040 The museum on the site displays some of 609 00:36:41,080 --> 00:36:42,600 the incredibly well-preserved 610 00:36:42,640 --> 00:36:45,440 artefacts found in the excavated homes. 611 00:36:56,040 --> 00:36:57,480 It's been a privilege 612 00:36:57,520 --> 00:37:00,480 to visit this iconic Neolithic site 613 00:37:00,520 --> 00:37:03,160 but tomorrow I'm back on the trail of the Ottomans 614 00:37:03,200 --> 00:37:07,640 and the lasting imprint they left across their empire. 615 00:37:25,520 --> 00:37:29,960 I'm in central Turkey in the ancient city of Konya 616 00:37:30,000 --> 00:37:34,000 that was pivotal to so many civilisations and religions, 617 00:37:34,040 --> 00:37:38,440 from the early Christians to various followers of Islam. 618 00:37:38,480 --> 00:37:41,080 Including the Ottomans, who arrived here in 619 00:37:41,120 --> 00:37:42,920 the mid-15th century, 620 00:37:42,960 --> 00:37:46,320 transforming the city with their trademark architecture 621 00:37:46,360 --> 00:37:50,520 and numerous mosques, including their piece de resistance, 622 00:37:50,560 --> 00:37:53,160 the magnificent Selimiye Mosque. 623 00:37:55,240 --> 00:37:59,760 Today, Konya has barely been touched by international tourism, 624 00:37:59,800 --> 00:38:04,960 but it is well-known in Turkey as a popular pilgrim destination. 625 00:38:05,000 --> 00:38:06,480 And that's 626 00:38:06,520 --> 00:38:08,720 because it is home to the mausoleum of 627 00:38:08,760 --> 00:38:11,640 the revered 13th-century Sufi mystic, 628 00:38:11,680 --> 00:38:14,240 the poet and philosopher Rumi. 629 00:38:19,160 --> 00:38:22,360 In the rose garden of the religious complex I have come 630 00:38:22,400 --> 00:38:26,520 to watch a modern-day performance by whirling dervishes, 631 00:38:26,560 --> 00:38:27,960 followers of Rumi. 632 00:38:31,040 --> 00:38:34,120 I'm also meeting tour guide Zey Inaloz, 633 00:38:34,160 --> 00:38:37,960 to learn more about the spiritual basis of this dance 634 00:38:38,000 --> 00:38:41,720 and about that religious leader, Rumi, himself. 635 00:38:43,440 --> 00:38:46,240 CHANTING MUSIC 636 00:38:56,120 --> 00:38:58,960 Hello. Hello. Shall we sit down here? 637 00:38:59,000 --> 00:39:01,040 Yes, welcome. 638 00:39:01,080 --> 00:39:02,600 This is amazing. 639 00:39:02,640 --> 00:39:04,160 It's amazing, right. 640 00:39:04,200 --> 00:39:06,520 I haven't seen whirling dervishes before. 641 00:39:06,560 --> 00:39:08,400 Ah, OK, this is your first time? 642 00:39:08,440 --> 00:39:11,000 It is and it's not quite what I expected, 643 00:39:11,040 --> 00:39:16,480 it's extremely hypnotising, it's kind of mesmeric. 644 00:39:16,520 --> 00:39:18,240 Yeah, it's totally magical. 645 00:39:18,280 --> 00:39:19,560 Yeah. 646 00:39:19,600 --> 00:39:22,760 The dance of whirling dervishes is called Sema, 647 00:39:22,800 --> 00:39:26,880 and is, we call that Sema, sema, which means sky. 648 00:39:26,920 --> 00:39:31,520 It is growing yourself an inner spiritual. 649 00:39:31,560 --> 00:39:35,520 We came from the God and we will return back to God, 650 00:39:35,560 --> 00:39:39,160 that's why they were holding their arms like that 651 00:39:39,200 --> 00:39:41,360 and standing position. 652 00:39:41,400 --> 00:39:42,720 They did that. 653 00:39:42,760 --> 00:39:44,320 They did that, right. 654 00:39:44,360 --> 00:39:46,480 They did that to begin with, and then they unfurl. 655 00:39:46,520 --> 00:39:48,280 And unfurl 656 00:39:48,320 --> 00:39:52,360 and they're opening their arms into right hands facing 657 00:39:52,400 --> 00:39:56,400 to sky, left is facing to ground, to soil. 658 00:39:56,440 --> 00:39:57,920 Right, yeah. 659 00:39:57,960 --> 00:40:00,600 That means we came from the God 660 00:40:00,640 --> 00:40:03,520 and we will return back to the God with nothing. 661 00:40:03,560 --> 00:40:06,440 So, this is a kind of religious meditation. 662 00:40:06,480 --> 00:40:09,600 It is exactly a kind of religious meditation. 663 00:40:11,080 --> 00:40:14,200 It comes from the Sufi's custom, 664 00:40:14,240 --> 00:40:18,480 because this custom became a very popular belief in Turkey. 665 00:40:18,520 --> 00:40:19,960 And the meaning 666 00:40:20,000 --> 00:40:22,440 of dervish itself - is this essentially, 667 00:40:22,480 --> 00:40:24,800 somebody like a monk who has taken a vow of poverty? 668 00:40:24,840 --> 00:40:26,680 Is that what it is? 669 00:40:26,720 --> 00:40:29,640 It is not exactly poverty 670 00:40:29,680 --> 00:40:33,800 but what you call dervishes is a perfection man. 671 00:40:33,840 --> 00:40:36,840 He can't be anger, you can control yourself, 672 00:40:36,880 --> 00:40:38,840 you should be patient. 673 00:40:38,880 --> 00:40:41,480 The point is if you are able 674 00:40:41,520 --> 00:40:44,720 to love at difficult things in your life, 675 00:40:44,760 --> 00:40:46,320 you can be a Dervish. 676 00:40:47,480 --> 00:40:50,800 And it is very hard to control yourself, indeed. 677 00:40:50,840 --> 00:40:52,120 Yeah. 678 00:40:52,160 --> 00:40:54,840 It is very difficult to love your hater. 679 00:40:54,880 --> 00:40:57,880 Yeah. Very, very hard. 680 00:40:57,920 --> 00:40:59,560 God will love you 681 00:40:59,600 --> 00:41:02,320 and God will welcome you in his heaven. 682 00:41:02,360 --> 00:41:06,080 And your life in the world will be heaven. 683 00:41:06,120 --> 00:41:07,480 Yeah, yeah. 684 00:41:07,520 --> 00:41:11,240 Because your heart already became clean. 685 00:41:11,280 --> 00:41:13,440 So trying to find heaven on Earth. 686 00:41:13,480 --> 00:41:16,680 Trying to achieve some kind of transcendental state 687 00:41:16,720 --> 00:41:20,240 with this meditation. So a deeply spiritual thing. 688 00:41:20,280 --> 00:41:22,920 Yeah, deeply spiritual thing, yeah. 689 00:41:26,480 --> 00:41:28,080 Although Konya is home to 690 00:41:28,120 --> 00:41:29,800 the original whirling dervishes, 691 00:41:29,840 --> 00:41:31,360 It's possible to see 692 00:41:31,400 --> 00:41:33,760 the Sema ceremony being performed in other 693 00:41:33,800 --> 00:41:35,400 Turkish cities. 694 00:41:36,600 --> 00:41:38,720 The traditional costume includes 695 00:41:38,760 --> 00:41:41,680 long skirts that fan out while whirling. 696 00:41:44,320 --> 00:41:48,200 But these white gowns also symbolise burial shrouds. 697 00:41:48,240 --> 00:41:51,240 And the tall felt hats represent tombstones. 698 00:41:56,560 --> 00:41:59,720 This cemetery is next to the historic lodge of 699 00:41:59,760 --> 00:42:01,320 the dervishes, 700 00:42:01,360 --> 00:42:04,400 built in the 16th century by Ottoman sultans. 701 00:42:09,960 --> 00:42:11,680 There is a small mosque 702 00:42:11,720 --> 00:42:14,520 and through the gate of the dervishes is the madrasah, 703 00:42:14,560 --> 00:42:16,600 the theological school 704 00:42:16,640 --> 00:42:19,120 for Rumi's followers who would spend up 705 00:42:19,160 --> 00:42:22,760 to 1,000 days training for the Sema ceremony. 706 00:42:27,240 --> 00:42:30,960 The lodge now forms part of the Mevlana Museum. 707 00:42:31,000 --> 00:42:34,080 Which includes the outstanding, domed mausoleum 708 00:42:34,120 --> 00:42:36,200 containing Rumi's tomb. 709 00:42:41,680 --> 00:42:43,920 This is the oldest part of the complex 710 00:42:43,960 --> 00:42:46,000 and was built by Rumi's sons in 711 00:42:46,040 --> 00:42:50,400 the late 13th century, after he died at the age of 66. 712 00:42:52,680 --> 00:42:55,760 It is one of Turkey's most important pilgrimage sites 713 00:42:55,800 --> 00:42:57,360 with more than 714 00:42:57,400 --> 00:42:59,920 one-and-a-half million visitors coming every year 715 00:42:59,960 --> 00:43:02,280 to honour their adored Sufi mystic. 716 00:43:09,920 --> 00:43:13,120 And when you step inside, it is breathtaking. 717 00:43:21,760 --> 00:43:23,920 Among the opulent artefacts 718 00:43:23,960 --> 00:43:26,960 is the simpler bronze Nisan Tas, 719 00:43:27,000 --> 00:43:29,960 the April Bowl that collected rainwater, 720 00:43:30,000 --> 00:43:32,200 sacred to local farmers, 721 00:43:32,240 --> 00:43:35,480 and into which the tip of Rumi's turban was dipped 722 00:43:35,520 --> 00:43:38,560 and used for healing. 723 00:43:38,600 --> 00:43:41,520 The mausoleum contains a number of tombs. 724 00:43:47,440 --> 00:43:51,240 But the most lavish is that of Rumi himself, 725 00:43:51,280 --> 00:43:55,040 covered in an elaborate brocade embroidered in gold 726 00:43:55,080 --> 00:43:57,520 with verses from the Koran. 727 00:43:57,560 --> 00:43:59,160 And topped with 728 00:43:59,200 --> 00:44:03,720 a huge turban symbolising his high status. 729 00:44:03,760 --> 00:44:07,160 The number of wraps denotes the level of importance. 730 00:44:12,360 --> 00:44:14,720 The room next to the burial chamber is where 731 00:44:14,760 --> 00:44:18,320 the dervishes once prayed and performed 732 00:44:18,360 --> 00:44:20,320 but today it's filled with cultural 733 00:44:20,360 --> 00:44:23,800 and ritual objects, including copies of the Koran 734 00:44:23,840 --> 00:44:26,080 and manuscripts of Rumi's poetry. 735 00:44:31,200 --> 00:44:33,560 The dervishes also led the way in developing 736 00:44:33,600 --> 00:44:36,560 the sounds of traditional Turkish religious music. 737 00:44:49,040 --> 00:44:51,000 It's been a captivating journey 738 00:44:51,040 --> 00:44:54,080 so far, reminding us just how much religion, 739 00:44:54,120 --> 00:44:58,680 politics and power were intertwined and still are, 740 00:44:58,720 --> 00:45:02,520 from the oldest mosque, in Adana, 741 00:45:02,560 --> 00:45:06,280 to the huge, new Sabanci Mosque. 742 00:45:06,320 --> 00:45:07,840 I've discovered 743 00:45:07,880 --> 00:45:09,720 the Ottoman origins of one 744 00:45:09,760 --> 00:45:12,720 of Turkey's most famous delicacies. 745 00:45:12,760 --> 00:45:15,800 And I've learned about the ancient mystical practice of 746 00:45:15,840 --> 00:45:17,880 the whirling dervishes of Konya. 747 00:45:21,160 --> 00:45:24,400 I'm getting insights into Ottoman culture, 748 00:45:24,440 --> 00:45:28,520 as well as the importance of Islam in their empire. 749 00:45:28,560 --> 00:45:30,880 But there are more Ottoman secrets 750 00:45:30,920 --> 00:45:32,960 and treasures that await me, 751 00:45:33,000 --> 00:45:35,400 and it's time to get back on the train. 752 00:45:43,440 --> 00:45:47,000 Next time, I go to the capital, Ankara, 753 00:45:47,040 --> 00:45:50,720 to see the tomb of Ataturk, who ended the Ottoman Empire. 754 00:45:50,760 --> 00:45:53,120 This is so impressive. It is, yeah, 755 00:45:53,160 --> 00:45:56,000 it's probably the most monumental thing you will ever see. 756 00:45:56,040 --> 00:45:58,320 And I take a challenging trip... 757 00:46:02,240 --> 00:46:04,240 ..to the old Ottoman capital, 758 00:46:04,280 --> 00:46:07,400 Bursa, where it all began with a dream. 759 00:46:08,600 --> 00:46:11,280 This is the mausoleum of Osman, himself, 760 00:46:11,320 --> 00:46:14,080 the sultan who started the Ottoman Empire. 761 00:46:15,720 --> 00:46:19,600 Two contrasting cities and two historic leaders, 762 00:46:19,640 --> 00:46:23,520 who bookended 600 years of Ottoman rule. 763 00:46:27,040 --> 00:46:30,200 Subtitles by Red Bee Media 60689

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