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These are the user uploaded subtitles that are being translated: 1 00:00:03,800 --> 00:00:08,560 Turkey's golden coastline stretches 5,000 miles, 2 00:00:08,600 --> 00:00:13,520 attracting 40 million tourists every year. 3 00:00:13,560 --> 00:00:18,240 But a few miles inland is a whole different world, 4 00:00:18,280 --> 00:00:22,720 one that is intoxicating, mysterious 5 00:00:22,760 --> 00:00:25,000 and steeped in history. 6 00:00:25,040 --> 00:00:27,920 This is such an incredible building. 7 00:00:27,960 --> 00:00:33,240 It was the largest church in the world for a thousand years. 8 00:00:33,280 --> 00:00:37,080 The land where one of the most formidable empires, 9 00:00:37,120 --> 00:00:41,680 lasting six centuries and spanning continents, was founded. 10 00:00:41,720 --> 00:00:43,600 Tesekkur ederim. 11 00:00:43,640 --> 00:00:47,280 I'm Alice Roberts, and I'm travelling hundreds of miles 12 00:00:47,320 --> 00:00:50,240 by train through Turkey and Eastern Europe. 13 00:00:50,280 --> 00:00:52,360 Oh, wow, look at that. 14 00:00:52,400 --> 00:00:54,320 Lovely. 15 00:00:54,360 --> 00:01:00,080 I want to discover the fascinating story of the Ottoman Empire. 16 00:01:03,480 --> 00:01:06,480 This is the mausoleum of Osman himself, 17 00:01:06,520 --> 00:01:09,880 the sultan who started the Ottoman dynasty. 18 00:01:09,920 --> 00:01:12,760 Through its distinctive architecture... 19 00:01:12,800 --> 00:01:14,680 Beautiful courtyard. 20 00:01:14,720 --> 00:01:16,320 ..its historic leaders... 21 00:01:16,360 --> 00:01:21,640 The early Ottoman sultans had their eye on this prize, Constantinople. 22 00:01:21,680 --> 00:01:25,640 ..and the remnants of its turbulent past. 23 00:01:25,680 --> 00:01:27,720 What a horrific monument. 24 00:01:33,360 --> 00:01:37,160 Today I'm heading to Ankara, the capital of modern Turkey 25 00:01:37,200 --> 00:01:39,360 and home to the tomb of Ataturk, 26 00:01:39,400 --> 00:01:42,880 who became leader after the Ottoman Empire collapsed. 27 00:01:42,920 --> 00:01:45,200 This is so impressive. It is, yeah. 28 00:01:45,240 --> 00:01:49,040 It's probably the most monumental thing you'll ever see. 29 00:01:49,080 --> 00:01:53,880 I'll also be heading west to Bursa, the very first capital city 30 00:01:53,920 --> 00:01:58,040 of the Ottoman Empire - before Constantinople was conquered. 31 00:01:58,080 --> 00:02:02,760 The first Ottoman coins were struck here in Bursa. 32 00:02:06,400 --> 00:02:10,440 Two contrasting cities and two historic leaders 33 00:02:10,480 --> 00:02:14,320 who book end 600 years of Ottoman rule - 34 00:02:14,360 --> 00:02:18,440 as I discover the Ottoman Empire by train. 35 00:02:27,880 --> 00:02:31,960 The journey from Konya to Ankara is my chance to try out 36 00:02:32,000 --> 00:02:35,640 Turkey's brand-new high speed rail service. 37 00:02:37,280 --> 00:02:41,200 I'm travelling the same distance as the train from Adana to Konya, 38 00:02:41,240 --> 00:02:43,800 which took over six hours. 39 00:02:43,840 --> 00:02:47,280 This journey is one hour, 45 minutes. 40 00:02:50,560 --> 00:02:54,640 Ankara has been an important administrative capital in Anatolia 41 00:02:54,680 --> 00:02:59,640 going back to ancient times, even if it was never quite as important 42 00:02:59,680 --> 00:03:03,400 as Constantinople, modern Istanbul. 43 00:03:07,720 --> 00:03:11,800 Constantinople, also known as Byzantium, was the capital 44 00:03:11,840 --> 00:03:17,120 of the Eastern Roman Empire, later to be known as the Byzantine Empire. 45 00:03:20,000 --> 00:03:24,000 I'm just approaching Ankara, the capital of modern Turkey. 46 00:03:24,040 --> 00:03:26,920 It's been an important city in this part of the world 47 00:03:26,960 --> 00:03:30,240 for thousands and thousands of years, and it was tossled over 48 00:03:30,280 --> 00:03:33,800 by the Byzantine Empire and the Islamic caliphates, and then, 49 00:03:33,840 --> 00:03:36,640 of course, became part of the Ottoman Empire. 50 00:03:36,680 --> 00:03:40,120 It was Osman's son, Orhan, that captured it back 51 00:03:40,160 --> 00:03:42,640 in the 14th century. 52 00:03:42,680 --> 00:03:46,960 But then the capital of the Ottoman Empire became Constantinople. 53 00:03:47,000 --> 00:03:51,760 It was only when the Ottoman Empire fell, and was replaced by the public 54 00:03:51,800 --> 00:03:56,760 of Turkey, that Ankara became the capital - under the leadership 55 00:03:56,800 --> 00:04:01,960 of Mustafa Kemal, who is known everywhere today as Ataturk, 56 00:04:02,000 --> 00:04:03,800 the father of the Turks. 57 00:04:14,080 --> 00:04:18,520 In Ankara, I want to find out more about Ataturk himself, 58 00:04:18,560 --> 00:04:23,280 how he transformed the country after 600 years of Ottoman rule, 59 00:04:23,320 --> 00:04:27,440 and to find out why he is still so adored today. 60 00:04:28,880 --> 00:04:31,760 I'm on my way to Ataturk's mausoleum. 61 00:04:31,800 --> 00:04:36,600 Built on a hill, it is visible from almost everywhere in the city, 62 00:04:36,640 --> 00:04:40,480 and it's one of the most prominent monuments in the country. 63 00:04:40,520 --> 00:04:44,920 People come from all over Turkey to make the pilgrimage to his tomb 64 00:04:44,960 --> 00:04:49,040 and pay their respects to the father of the nation. 65 00:04:49,080 --> 00:04:53,920 On the 75th anniversary of Ataturk's death, in 2013, 66 00:04:53,960 --> 00:04:58,240 over a million visitors came here in just one day. 67 00:05:03,840 --> 00:05:07,080 These guards are considered to be the military elite. 68 00:05:07,120 --> 00:05:09,680 They are carefully selected. 69 00:05:09,720 --> 00:05:12,200 They must have no tattoos, 70 00:05:12,240 --> 00:05:15,480 and they are put through a rigorous training regime. 71 00:05:17,360 --> 00:05:22,280 When on duty, each guard must remain motionless for an hour. 72 00:05:25,800 --> 00:05:30,760 The architectural style seems to predate the Ottoman period. 73 00:05:30,800 --> 00:05:36,920 I get a sense of other great empires from the past, Greek and Egyptian. 74 00:05:38,560 --> 00:05:40,560 I'm meeting Aslian Gunhan, 75 00:05:40,600 --> 00:05:44,560 an architect with a special interest in history. 76 00:05:44,600 --> 00:05:47,080 Aslian. Hi! Hi, Alice. Marhaba. Marhaba. 77 00:05:47,120 --> 00:05:49,160 Nice to meet you. Welcome. Nice to meet you, too. 78 00:05:49,200 --> 00:05:51,240 This is so impressive. It is, yeah. 79 00:05:51,280 --> 00:05:54,320 It's probably the most monumental thing you'll ever see. 80 00:05:54,360 --> 00:05:56,400 It's huge, isn't it? It is, yeah. Why? 81 00:05:56,440 --> 00:05:58,840 And I think, you know, walking up those steps there, you almost 82 00:05:58,880 --> 00:06:00,480 feel like you're walking into a temple. Yeah. 83 00:06:00,520 --> 00:06:02,640 It's got that kind of feel to it. Yeah. 84 00:06:02,680 --> 00:06:06,320 Well, before we start walking down there, what about these sculptures? 85 00:06:06,360 --> 00:06:08,000 What do they represent? 86 00:06:08,040 --> 00:06:12,280 These three men, they're a student, a soldier and a labourer - 87 00:06:12,320 --> 00:06:15,920 a worker or a farmer - representing, you know, what the modern ideas 88 00:06:15,960 --> 00:06:18,120 of the citizenship are. Yeah. 89 00:06:18,160 --> 00:06:21,920 And here are three women, they are holding the symbols 90 00:06:21,960 --> 00:06:24,560 of fertility and wellness. 91 00:06:24,600 --> 00:06:28,520 And the woman at the back is crying - that's for, you know, 92 00:06:28,560 --> 00:06:32,160 Ataturk's death, and it's mourning for his loss. Right, yeah. 93 00:06:32,200 --> 00:06:35,440 They're kind of representing the population of Turkey... Exactly. 94 00:06:35,480 --> 00:06:39,160 ..but also the fertility of Turkey and the loss of Ataturk. Yes. 95 00:06:41,360 --> 00:06:44,440 The processional way leading up to the mausoleum 96 00:06:44,480 --> 00:06:47,240 is called the Lion's Road. 97 00:06:47,280 --> 00:06:52,880 As we walk along its 260m, we pass between pairs of stone lions. 98 00:06:52,920 --> 00:06:55,400 They're based on Bronze Age archaeological finds 99 00:06:55,440 --> 00:06:57,400 from the region. 100 00:06:57,440 --> 00:07:02,320 There are 24, one for each of the original Turkic tribes. 101 00:07:02,360 --> 00:07:06,600 They're designed to reflect Ataturk's vision to unite the people 102 00:07:06,640 --> 00:07:10,240 and acknowledge Turkey's rich and varied roots. 103 00:07:12,000 --> 00:07:16,560 Ataturk died in 1938, aged 57. 104 00:07:16,600 --> 00:07:20,240 His body was kept on a separate site while this was built. 105 00:07:20,280 --> 00:07:22,880 15 years later, it was brought here 106 00:07:22,920 --> 00:07:26,040 and the mausoleum was opened to the public. 107 00:07:28,120 --> 00:07:30,240 It's such an incredible space. 108 00:07:30,280 --> 00:07:34,600 I mean, the formality of it and the... 109 00:07:34,640 --> 00:07:37,440 ..and the scale of it is enormous, isn't it? Yes. 110 00:07:37,480 --> 00:07:40,520 And it certainly puts you in mind of those kind of 111 00:07:40,560 --> 00:07:43,520 temple complexes in Egypt, for instance. Yes. 112 00:07:43,560 --> 00:07:46,320 I know it's inspired by Turkish archaeology, 113 00:07:46,360 --> 00:07:48,680 but it has that kind of monumentality to it. 114 00:07:48,720 --> 00:07:52,400 You know, you see traces of the Parthenon, the classical Greece. 115 00:07:52,440 --> 00:07:53,720 Yeah, yeah. 116 00:07:53,760 --> 00:07:57,280 You see exactly, like, colours that remind you of Egyptian monuments. 117 00:07:57,320 --> 00:08:00,200 It's huge in terms of scale. 118 00:08:00,240 --> 00:08:03,960 It's for public to gather and remember. 119 00:08:04,000 --> 00:08:06,560 It's a very unique building. Yeah. 120 00:08:06,600 --> 00:08:10,000 And it's still used today for ceremonies, is it? Yes, yes. 121 00:08:10,040 --> 00:08:14,520 And what do you think it intended to say about Turkish identity? 122 00:08:14,560 --> 00:08:18,800 If there was one word to explain Ataturk, 123 00:08:18,840 --> 00:08:21,520 he would be called a modernist, right? 124 00:08:21,560 --> 00:08:24,200 And all modernists have a vision. 125 00:08:24,240 --> 00:08:27,400 It's about their vision of nationhood and identity 126 00:08:27,440 --> 00:08:29,720 and citizenship. 127 00:08:29,760 --> 00:08:33,360 He was a big supporter of modern science, technology. 128 00:08:33,400 --> 00:08:37,680 Terminologies that we call Western civilisations. 129 00:08:37,720 --> 00:08:40,480 And it's absolutely thronged with tourists, 130 00:08:40,520 --> 00:08:43,960 and my impression is that most of them are Turkish. 131 00:08:44,000 --> 00:08:48,760 Maybe for international tourists, the attraction is the monumentality 132 00:08:48,800 --> 00:08:50,600 and architecture. Yeah. 133 00:08:50,640 --> 00:08:54,440 For local tourists, it's about remembering Ataturk, 134 00:08:54,480 --> 00:08:56,680 it's about memorialising, 135 00:08:56,720 --> 00:08:59,320 it's about the ceremonial coming together, 136 00:08:59,360 --> 00:09:01,800 this idea of publicity and citizenship. 137 00:09:01,840 --> 00:09:05,000 So, I think there might be different ideas... Yeah, yeah. 138 00:09:05,040 --> 00:09:07,720 ..or aims for both of these populations. 139 00:09:07,760 --> 00:09:12,160 But, you know, this is a huge, nice open area, 140 00:09:12,200 --> 00:09:14,480 where, you know, everyone can be together. 141 00:09:14,520 --> 00:09:17,360 I think it's always very difficult to draw a line between pilgrimage 142 00:09:17,400 --> 00:09:20,360 and tourism, and I suspect there's a bit of both going on here. 143 00:09:20,400 --> 00:09:22,400 LAUGHING: Exactly, yes, yes. 144 00:09:22,440 --> 00:09:24,880 I think it might be time to ascend these steps 145 00:09:24,920 --> 00:09:27,080 and go into the mausoleum itself. Yes. 146 00:09:31,200 --> 00:09:36,040 The steps are framed by two war scenes - this one on the left 147 00:09:36,080 --> 00:09:39,960 shows Turkish forces fighting the Greeks in the Greco-Turkish War 148 00:09:40,000 --> 00:09:43,520 of 1919 to 1922. 149 00:09:43,560 --> 00:09:47,320 Ataturk was originally a soldier, who worked his way up through 150 00:09:47,360 --> 00:09:51,200 the ranks and led his troops to victory in those battles. 151 00:09:51,240 --> 00:09:54,480 These were key events in Ataturk's military career 152 00:09:54,520 --> 00:09:58,800 before he became the first leader of the Republic of Turkey. 153 00:09:58,840 --> 00:10:02,960 The mausoleum walls are inscribed with words from Ataturk's speeches, 154 00:10:03,000 --> 00:10:06,360 marking the grandest of entrances. 155 00:10:06,400 --> 00:10:09,480 It is enormous, Aslian. It is. 156 00:10:09,520 --> 00:10:13,720 It makes you look about. It kind of, you know, directs your head up. 157 00:10:13,760 --> 00:10:17,640 We see some more traditional motifs up there, and that's actually 158 00:10:17,680 --> 00:10:21,200 a really interesting contrast with the abstract, monumental 159 00:10:21,240 --> 00:10:23,440 architecture of the mausoleum. 160 00:10:23,480 --> 00:10:25,080 Yeah, yeah, it is, isn't it? 161 00:10:25,120 --> 00:10:27,040 Yeah, it's very plain, very plain, very plain... 162 00:10:27,080 --> 00:10:29,200 And suddenly you have those sparkles. ..and then, suddenly, 163 00:10:29,240 --> 00:10:31,480 you've got glittering mosaics up there. Yes. 164 00:10:31,520 --> 00:10:32,920 Wow. 165 00:10:40,840 --> 00:10:42,680 So many people! 166 00:10:42,720 --> 00:10:45,440 It's really crowded. Yeah. 167 00:10:46,800 --> 00:10:49,600 Is that the actual tomb? Is that the actual sarcophagus? 168 00:10:49,640 --> 00:10:51,880 That is not the actual sarcophagus. 169 00:10:51,920 --> 00:10:55,240 The actual sarcophagus is seven metres below. Right, OK. 170 00:10:55,280 --> 00:10:57,120 In a separate room. Yeah. 171 00:10:57,160 --> 00:11:00,480 This is just symbolising the sarcophagus. Yeah, yeah. 172 00:11:00,520 --> 00:11:03,720 But with the reverse light over there, and with the colonnades, 173 00:11:03,760 --> 00:11:06,080 it's framed in such a nice way. 174 00:11:06,120 --> 00:11:08,920 It works well, doesn't it? Cos it's quite a dark space. It is. 175 00:11:08,960 --> 00:11:11,080 And then you've got that... Suddenly you have the light. 176 00:11:11,120 --> 00:11:13,800 ..big window with the sarcophagus under it. 177 00:11:13,840 --> 00:11:16,560 And more mosaic above it. Yeah. 178 00:11:21,320 --> 00:11:23,480 Yes, it's interesting, architecturally, isn't it? 179 00:11:23,520 --> 00:11:26,320 Because, you know, obviously this is the focus of the room, 180 00:11:26,360 --> 00:11:29,240 that sarcophagus, that tomb. 181 00:11:29,280 --> 00:11:32,720 But then you're looking through to the outside again, as well. 182 00:11:32,760 --> 00:11:35,680 You're looking through, you're looking out to Turkey. 183 00:11:35,720 --> 00:11:38,840 It seems the crowds are being held back from the tomb 184 00:11:38,880 --> 00:11:41,560 in preparation for some sort of ceremony. 185 00:11:41,600 --> 00:11:43,360 What does it say on that wreath? 186 00:11:43,400 --> 00:11:46,520 The chamber of veterinary... 187 00:11:46,560 --> 00:11:48,560 ..erm, doctors. 188 00:11:50,680 --> 00:11:53,320 And that cellphone adds a really interesting bodily gesture 189 00:11:53,360 --> 00:11:56,760 to the whole procession. Yeah! I know. 190 00:11:58,520 --> 00:12:00,920 Can you ask them what it is they're celebrating? 191 00:12:00,960 --> 00:12:02,480 Sure. 192 00:12:02,520 --> 00:12:06,880 THEY SPEAK TURKISH 193 00:12:09,280 --> 00:12:10,640 So... 194 00:12:10,680 --> 00:12:13,480 So, this is to the World... 195 00:12:13,520 --> 00:12:17,040 The World Veterinary Doctors Day today. Oh, right. 196 00:12:17,080 --> 00:12:19,400 So that's why they are here. Yeah. 197 00:12:19,440 --> 00:12:23,520 THEY SPEAK TURKISH 198 00:12:29,360 --> 00:12:32,320 So, this is the last Saturday of April, 199 00:12:32,360 --> 00:12:35,520 is the World Veterinary Doctors Day, so... Yeah. 200 00:12:38,680 --> 00:12:43,440 BUGLE CALL PLAYS 201 00:13:14,600 --> 00:13:18,160 With the vets now dispersed, I can get closer to the tomb. 202 00:13:19,960 --> 00:13:23,800 Even though Ataturk's body isn't in it, the stone sarcophagus 203 00:13:23,840 --> 00:13:26,600 provides an important focus. 204 00:13:26,640 --> 00:13:31,560 And everything about this room is designed to inspire awe. 205 00:13:34,120 --> 00:13:38,720 Ataturk came to national prominence as a leader over 100 years ago, 206 00:13:38,760 --> 00:13:41,960 and today there's still such clear evidence of immense 207 00:13:42,000 --> 00:13:44,160 respect towards him. 208 00:13:46,120 --> 00:13:48,560 With one more day in Ankara, I'll go in search of 209 00:13:48,600 --> 00:13:51,760 the city's few Ottoman relics, 210 00:13:51,800 --> 00:13:56,280 and I'll take a train to the first Ottoman capital, Bursa. 211 00:14:02,760 --> 00:14:08,480 I'm in the Turkish capital, Ankara, exploring its Ottoman past. 212 00:14:08,520 --> 00:14:12,240 I've got one more day here before I take the train west 213 00:14:12,280 --> 00:14:14,600 and head to the old capital, Bursa. 214 00:14:16,880 --> 00:14:21,240 Ankara is a densely populated, hard working city. 215 00:14:21,280 --> 00:14:23,920 It's the seat of the Turkish government, 216 00:14:23,960 --> 00:14:28,040 and its streets are thriving with cafes and markets. 217 00:14:29,400 --> 00:14:33,600 The city has been widely modernised, and there is very little left 218 00:14:33,640 --> 00:14:37,760 in its architecture from those Ottoman centuries. 219 00:14:37,800 --> 00:14:40,720 But there are some buildings that can help to tell 220 00:14:40,760 --> 00:14:43,680 the Ottoman story - if you know where to look. 221 00:14:43,720 --> 00:14:48,880 So, at this statue of Ataturk, I'm meeting Ceren Katipoglu, 222 00:14:48,920 --> 00:14:51,840 an expert in Ottoman architecture. 223 00:14:51,880 --> 00:14:53,840 Hello. Merhaba. 224 00:14:53,880 --> 00:14:55,800 Hi! Ceren. I'm Alice. 225 00:14:55,840 --> 00:14:57,640 Nice to meet you, Alice. 226 00:14:57,680 --> 00:15:00,840 So, you're going to take me on a tour of Ottoman Ankara? 227 00:15:00,880 --> 00:15:02,160 Yes. 228 00:15:02,200 --> 00:15:04,720 Starting here at the end of the Ottoman Empire. 229 00:15:04,760 --> 00:15:06,920 This is a monument to Ataturk. 230 00:15:06,960 --> 00:15:09,040 Yes, it's a very important monument. 231 00:15:09,080 --> 00:15:11,480 We called it Victory Monument. 232 00:15:11,520 --> 00:15:14,680 This is the representation of republican Ankara. 233 00:15:14,720 --> 00:15:19,000 And you see father of Turks, Ataturk, at the top. Yeah. 234 00:15:19,040 --> 00:15:21,800 He stands on his horse. 235 00:15:21,840 --> 00:15:26,840 And on the lower part we have two soldiers ready to fight. 236 00:15:26,880 --> 00:15:28,400 Yeah, yeah. 237 00:15:28,440 --> 00:15:32,760 And, also, at the back we have a woman figure here, 238 00:15:32,800 --> 00:15:38,680 showing the part of the women in Turkish independence war. 239 00:15:38,720 --> 00:15:42,600 I mean, it's unashamedly militaristic, isn't it? Yes. 240 00:15:42,640 --> 00:15:47,080 Turkish Republic, established in 1923, 241 00:15:47,120 --> 00:15:50,800 it's a very important change. 242 00:15:50,840 --> 00:15:55,160 Ataturk wanted to break from Istanbul heritage. 243 00:15:55,200 --> 00:15:58,920 So, a complete break with that Ottoman past? Yes. 244 00:15:58,960 --> 00:16:02,240 And you can still see Ottoman architecture in the city? 245 00:16:02,280 --> 00:16:04,040 Yes, let's go there. OK. 246 00:16:08,680 --> 00:16:12,680 Across the road from the statue is a former government building, 247 00:16:12,720 --> 00:16:18,240 from 1920, designed to reflect the early Ottoman style. 248 00:16:18,280 --> 00:16:21,120 This was the first seat of government for the new 249 00:16:21,160 --> 00:16:24,960 Republic of Turkey - today it's a museum. 250 00:16:26,080 --> 00:16:28,680 We see some Ottoman elements here. 251 00:16:28,720 --> 00:16:32,080 It's a very simple, plain facade. 252 00:16:32,120 --> 00:16:36,280 We have these Ottoman arches, with that pointed arches again. 253 00:16:36,320 --> 00:16:39,040 Yes, it's quite subtle, isn't it? Just that slight point at the top. 254 00:16:39,080 --> 00:16:40,600 Yes, very, very subtle. 255 00:16:40,640 --> 00:16:43,000 And then, we have these large eaves. 256 00:16:43,040 --> 00:16:46,920 It's a kind of style in that 19th century period. 257 00:16:46,960 --> 00:16:51,760 And we have these special stones, it's that Ankara stone. 258 00:16:52,840 --> 00:16:55,880 So, this is quite an elegant style. I like that. 259 00:16:55,920 --> 00:17:00,440 That's the first national style, or Ottoman revivalism, we can say. 260 00:17:00,480 --> 00:17:03,880 In some ways, it's curious that the first government building 261 00:17:03,920 --> 00:17:09,160 for the brand-new republic would hark back to the past in this way. 262 00:17:09,200 --> 00:17:12,480 I suspect it was a phase, as the city developed confidence 263 00:17:12,520 --> 00:17:15,240 as Turkey's new capital. 264 00:17:15,280 --> 00:17:17,760 And what about this one? That looks like it has an Ottoman... 265 00:17:17,800 --> 00:17:22,240 Yes, it's also from the Ottoman period, from 19th century. 266 00:17:22,280 --> 00:17:27,000 And here you see some details from that period, 267 00:17:27,040 --> 00:17:31,680 with that blue mosaics just over the arches here. 268 00:17:39,320 --> 00:17:43,880 So, that Turkish bank, that's republican period, is it? 269 00:17:43,920 --> 00:17:46,640 These two buildings from republican period. 270 00:17:46,680 --> 00:17:50,600 So, you see both European and Ottoman references. 271 00:17:52,920 --> 00:17:57,760 Built just ten years apart, these two buildings reveal a turning point 272 00:17:57,800 --> 00:18:00,240 in post-Ottoman Turkey. 273 00:18:00,280 --> 00:18:04,320 One, built as a bank, incorporates elements of the Ottoman style, 274 00:18:04,360 --> 00:18:07,440 looking back to the past. 275 00:18:07,480 --> 00:18:13,520 The other, the university building, is quite stark, even brutalist. 276 00:18:13,560 --> 00:18:18,000 It's a powerful statement of moving on into a new future. 277 00:18:19,440 --> 00:18:23,080 You've got two buildings there that are only separated by a decade, 278 00:18:23,120 --> 00:18:25,880 and they're so different in style. Yes. 279 00:18:25,920 --> 00:18:28,720 And the later one, I'm surprised it's 1930s. 280 00:18:28,760 --> 00:18:31,920 It looks even more modern than that, doesn't it? Yes. 281 00:18:31,960 --> 00:18:36,440 Towards 1930s, all of a sudden, specific... 282 00:18:36,480 --> 00:18:39,520 the architectural meaning changes. 283 00:18:39,560 --> 00:18:41,600 Yeah. And the Ottoman style is gone. 284 00:18:41,640 --> 00:18:43,440 Of course. Yeah. 285 00:18:45,000 --> 00:18:49,440 It's fascinating to see how changing politics are clearly reflected 286 00:18:49,480 --> 00:18:51,760 in the style of the buildings. 287 00:18:53,200 --> 00:18:55,760 Just a couple of minutes off the high street, 288 00:18:55,800 --> 00:18:59,560 and we've reached an area called Altindag. 289 00:18:59,600 --> 00:19:02,280 Up on the top of the hill is a cluster of buildings 290 00:19:02,320 --> 00:19:06,440 which predate those we've just seen by hundreds of years, 291 00:19:06,480 --> 00:19:09,400 one of them by a couple of thousand years. 292 00:19:09,440 --> 00:19:13,920 It's a temple dating to around 25 BCE. 293 00:19:13,960 --> 00:19:19,000 But to reach it, you have to use a bit of modern engineering. 294 00:19:19,040 --> 00:19:22,080 An escalator! That saves our legs for a bit, anyway. 295 00:19:22,120 --> 00:19:23,960 THEY LAUGH 296 00:19:27,880 --> 00:19:30,880 I can see that minaret gradually coming into view. 297 00:19:30,920 --> 00:19:34,200 Yeah, that's a nice idea, right? Yeah. 298 00:19:34,240 --> 00:19:38,120 You are seeing it step by step, and then all of a sudden... 299 00:19:38,160 --> 00:19:40,520 ..ta-da! There it is! 300 00:19:44,320 --> 00:19:47,920 The terrace captures three phases of historic architecture, 301 00:19:47,960 --> 00:19:50,200 all beautifully preserved. 302 00:19:53,880 --> 00:19:55,360 Oh, that's fantastic. 303 00:19:55,400 --> 00:19:58,320 So, that's the old Roman temple there. Yes. 304 00:19:58,360 --> 00:20:02,320 We have, as you see here, from the first century structure. 305 00:20:02,360 --> 00:20:06,760 Then, near to it we have a 15th century structure. Amazing. 306 00:20:06,800 --> 00:20:11,360 And then, we have some additional buildings here from 17th century. 307 00:20:11,400 --> 00:20:15,520 You can see all of them together on the same spot. 308 00:20:15,560 --> 00:20:17,320 Yeah, yeah. 309 00:20:17,360 --> 00:20:20,400 Right next to the mosque is a building which predates 310 00:20:20,440 --> 00:20:22,240 the Ottoman era. 311 00:20:22,280 --> 00:20:26,960 These are the remains of a 2,000 year old Roman temple. 312 00:20:27,000 --> 00:20:30,400 But even before this, there was another temple here 313 00:20:30,440 --> 00:20:33,000 built by the ancient Phrygians. 314 00:20:35,680 --> 00:20:39,720 The Romans replaced it and dedicated the new one to their leader, 315 00:20:39,760 --> 00:20:42,920 the very first Roman Emperor, Augustus. 316 00:20:44,480 --> 00:20:47,400 The core of the temple is still standing, 317 00:20:47,440 --> 00:20:51,000 and this wall provides important information. 318 00:20:51,040 --> 00:20:54,840 Inscribed on the stones in neat lines of text 319 00:20:54,880 --> 00:20:57,480 is the story of Augustus. 320 00:20:57,520 --> 00:21:00,880 It reminds me of the speeches of Ataturk inscribed 321 00:21:00,920 --> 00:21:02,760 on his mausoleum. 322 00:21:02,800 --> 00:21:04,160 That's just incredible. 323 00:21:04,200 --> 00:21:08,400 So, this is this inscription, which is essentially a biography of 324 00:21:08,440 --> 00:21:13,400 Augustus, then, that he wanted to be set in stone throughout the empire. 325 00:21:13,440 --> 00:21:15,200 Yes, you're right. 326 00:21:15,240 --> 00:21:18,520 This is what he accomplished during the Roman Empire. 327 00:21:18,560 --> 00:21:19,840 Yeah, yeah. 328 00:21:22,080 --> 00:21:25,600 There's a pattern - great leaders forge their legacies 329 00:21:25,640 --> 00:21:30,400 in monumental architecture, ensuring their stories are written in stone, 330 00:21:30,440 --> 00:21:33,800 part of the fabric of the buildings. 331 00:21:37,000 --> 00:21:41,920 One of the most historic buildings in Ankara sits on another hill, 332 00:21:41,960 --> 00:21:45,160 defending the heart of the city. 333 00:21:45,200 --> 00:21:49,040 It's believed that the castle was originally built by the Hittites 334 00:21:49,080 --> 00:21:51,720 around 1600 BCE. 335 00:21:56,600 --> 00:22:01,560 Then it was occupied by the Romans, Byzantines and the Ottomans. 336 00:22:02,960 --> 00:22:08,040 Ankara Castle, or citadel, is more than just a defensive fort. 337 00:22:13,720 --> 00:22:17,240 Today there are shops, art studios, a mosque, 338 00:22:17,280 --> 00:22:22,000 and over 600 houses contained within its walls. 339 00:22:22,040 --> 00:22:26,360 And this is where I'm meeting historian Nil Tekgul. 340 00:22:26,400 --> 00:22:30,120 Nil! Hello. Marhaba. 341 00:22:30,160 --> 00:22:32,320 Hello. Marhaba. Hello! 342 00:22:32,360 --> 00:22:36,000 We're inside the citadel. Yeah... It's really splendid. 343 00:22:36,040 --> 00:22:37,520 Yeah. 344 00:22:37,560 --> 00:22:40,960 So, this is an important city for the Romans, 345 00:22:41,000 --> 00:22:43,600 and then for the Byzantine Empire. 346 00:22:43,640 --> 00:22:48,640 And then the Seljukids and, of course, for the Ottomans as well. 347 00:22:48,680 --> 00:22:55,040 It was on the trade routes, main Silk Road trade, actually, 348 00:22:55,080 --> 00:22:57,440 from Constantinople to Tabriz, 349 00:22:57,480 --> 00:23:00,560 and also to Aleppo and Damascus. Yeah, yeah. 350 00:23:00,600 --> 00:23:04,040 It was, like, in the middle of those main roads. 351 00:23:04,080 --> 00:23:08,160 So, a political seat of power, but also a commercial hub. 352 00:23:08,200 --> 00:23:10,000 Yes, exactly. Yeah. 353 00:23:11,560 --> 00:23:15,000 The trade routes crossing through Ankara from all angles 354 00:23:15,040 --> 00:23:18,280 boosted its status, which was further enhanced 355 00:23:18,320 --> 00:23:21,320 by a unique product. 356 00:23:21,360 --> 00:23:25,040 In the Middle Ages, the city produced quantities of the textile 357 00:23:25,080 --> 00:23:28,400 known as mohair, or Angora wool, 358 00:23:28,440 --> 00:23:31,640 made from the pure white Ankara goats. 359 00:23:31,680 --> 00:23:35,920 So, Angora, it is Ankara - the same word, really? 360 00:23:35,960 --> 00:23:38,120 Yes, the same word, yeah. 361 00:23:38,160 --> 00:23:41,720 And there are many theories about this Angora goat 362 00:23:41,760 --> 00:23:45,240 that we still don't know, it's kind of puzzling. 363 00:23:45,280 --> 00:23:49,560 Some historians think that, you know, it's a species 364 00:23:49,600 --> 00:23:52,080 indigenous for Anatolia. Yeah. 365 00:23:52,120 --> 00:23:56,960 Something that, you know, the Turks brought it from Central Asia 366 00:23:57,000 --> 00:23:59,400 in the 12th or 13th century. 367 00:23:59,440 --> 00:24:02,400 That sounds like one of those puzzles that my geneticist friends 368 00:24:02,440 --> 00:24:05,840 would be able to solve. Yeah, I hope so. 369 00:24:05,880 --> 00:24:10,120 To protect their lucrative monopoly on Angora wool, 370 00:24:10,160 --> 00:24:14,520 the Ottomans created a law which ensured that the goats 371 00:24:14,560 --> 00:24:17,280 could not be removed from the region. 372 00:24:18,520 --> 00:24:20,440 Wow, look at that view! 373 00:24:20,480 --> 00:24:23,640 Great view of Ankara from here. Yeah. 374 00:24:23,680 --> 00:24:25,960 It is enormous. It's really huge. 375 00:24:26,000 --> 00:24:27,120 It is. 376 00:24:30,880 --> 00:24:35,080 Now it's more than eight million, probably, the population. 377 00:24:35,120 --> 00:24:39,480 By 16th century, it was... it's approximately 25,000. 378 00:24:39,520 --> 00:24:41,240 Yeah. 379 00:24:41,280 --> 00:24:44,040 But still a relatively big city of the period. Yeah, exactly. 380 00:24:44,080 --> 00:24:48,320 It was, like, the third biggest city in the Anatolia, 381 00:24:48,360 --> 00:24:52,400 after Constantinople and Bursa, of course. 382 00:24:52,440 --> 00:24:55,760 So, quite cosmopolitan, a lot of different cultures and religions? 383 00:24:55,800 --> 00:24:57,160 Yeah. Yeah. 384 00:24:57,200 --> 00:25:00,960 I always try to, you know, think about and reconstruct the past. 385 00:25:01,000 --> 00:25:05,880 And I think of Ankara, both the castle and the neighbourhoods 386 00:25:05,920 --> 00:25:10,120 down below, as people living together, 387 00:25:10,160 --> 00:25:13,640 whatever their faith are. Yeah. 388 00:25:13,680 --> 00:25:18,960 So, it was a very good idea, of course, for Ankara 389 00:25:19,000 --> 00:25:23,880 becoming the capital of Turkey. Yeah, yeah. 390 00:25:23,920 --> 00:25:28,040 After the break-up of the Ottoman Empire, the father of the new 391 00:25:28,080 --> 00:25:33,160 Republic of Turkey, Ataturk, chose Ankara as his capital - 392 00:25:33,200 --> 00:25:36,240 a city safely located in the middle of the country, 393 00:25:36,280 --> 00:25:38,600 surrounded by mountains. 394 00:25:38,640 --> 00:25:41,280 Now, can you see the Ataturk mausoleum from here? 395 00:25:41,320 --> 00:25:43,120 Yeah, sure. 396 00:25:43,160 --> 00:25:44,600 Let me see... 397 00:25:44,640 --> 00:25:46,400 There it is. 398 00:25:46,440 --> 00:25:47,760 There! 399 00:25:47,800 --> 00:25:51,840 He made a lasting mark on this nation and this city. 400 00:25:51,880 --> 00:25:55,320 That's an important monument in Turkey's modern history. 401 00:25:55,360 --> 00:25:57,040 Exactly, yeah. Yeah. 402 00:25:57,080 --> 00:26:01,360 As the day comes to an end, so does my time in Ankara. 403 00:26:13,080 --> 00:26:17,240 I'm heading west, inching ever closer to Istanbul. 404 00:26:17,280 --> 00:26:21,360 But before then, I have a very important place to visit. 405 00:26:25,520 --> 00:26:28,920 I need to go to the city of Bursa to understand better 406 00:26:28,960 --> 00:26:32,920 how the Ottomans first began to create their empire. 407 00:26:32,960 --> 00:26:36,920 My destination on this train is Bozuyuk, the closest town 408 00:26:36,960 --> 00:26:39,320 to Bursa on the rail network. 409 00:26:41,160 --> 00:26:44,800 I've left the modern capital, Ankara, behind me, 410 00:26:44,840 --> 00:26:48,240 having explored that history from the Emperor Augustus 411 00:26:48,280 --> 00:26:51,320 all the way through to Ataturk. 412 00:26:51,360 --> 00:26:54,760 Now I'm headed for the original capital 413 00:26:54,800 --> 00:26:58,320 of the Ottoman Empire, Bursa - and it's the resting place 414 00:26:58,360 --> 00:27:03,200 of the first Ottoman sultans, including Osman himself. 415 00:27:06,600 --> 00:27:10,760 I'm travelling at a speed of around 120mph, 416 00:27:10,800 --> 00:27:13,360 and the journey takes two hours. 417 00:27:13,400 --> 00:27:16,520 It's just enough time to get to know my neighbours. 418 00:27:18,280 --> 00:27:22,600 I've ended up sitting next to, erm, a sports team, I think, 419 00:27:22,640 --> 00:27:25,720 and it's a very particular sport, arm wrestling. 420 00:27:29,200 --> 00:27:32,480 The sport of arm wrestling has been very popular in Turkey 421 00:27:32,520 --> 00:27:36,760 since 1991, when a member of the Turkish team won gold 422 00:27:36,800 --> 00:27:39,240 in the World Championships. 423 00:27:39,280 --> 00:27:41,040 That's you? 424 00:27:41,080 --> 00:27:42,800 Oh, look at that. 425 00:27:42,840 --> 00:27:45,560 It seems that the Turkish Arm Wrestling Championships 426 00:27:45,600 --> 00:27:47,880 were held today in Ankara. 427 00:27:47,920 --> 00:27:52,400 Let's see what happens when Team GB takes on the medallist. 428 00:27:52,440 --> 00:27:55,360 OK. All right... 429 00:27:55,400 --> 00:27:57,040 Go. 430 00:27:57,080 --> 00:27:59,600 ALICE LAUGHS 431 00:28:02,480 --> 00:28:04,120 No...! 432 00:28:04,160 --> 00:28:06,160 She's not letting me do it...! 433 00:28:06,200 --> 00:28:08,400 ALICE STRAINS 434 00:28:09,760 --> 00:28:12,760 THEY LAUGH 435 00:28:12,800 --> 00:28:14,880 I haven't got a chance. Winner. 436 00:28:14,920 --> 00:28:16,960 Oh, thank you! 437 00:28:17,000 --> 00:28:18,600 Tesekkur. 438 00:28:20,920 --> 00:28:25,680 I came second against the champion - does that mean I get the silver? 439 00:28:29,920 --> 00:28:34,520 The rail tracks stop short of Bursa because it's surrounded 440 00:28:34,560 --> 00:28:38,360 by mountains, which also means it would have been a tough place 441 00:28:38,400 --> 00:28:42,000 for Osman to wrestle free of the Byzantine Empire. 442 00:28:43,640 --> 00:28:47,560 In the morning, I'll take a taxi into Bursa, where I hope to 443 00:28:47,600 --> 00:28:52,120 learn more about Osman and his dream of starting an empire. 444 00:29:02,360 --> 00:29:05,440 I'm on my adventure travelling through Turkey and up into 445 00:29:05,480 --> 00:29:09,880 Eastern Europe to learn about the rise and fall of the Ottoman Empire, 446 00:29:09,920 --> 00:29:12,520 and I've just arrived in Bursa. 447 00:29:15,800 --> 00:29:19,080 Bursa might not be the first place that comes to mind when you 448 00:29:19,120 --> 00:29:24,200 think of Turkey, but it's growing in popularity as a tourist destination. 449 00:29:24,240 --> 00:29:29,600 It has a youthful feel, and a large collection of galleries and museums 450 00:29:29,640 --> 00:29:33,320 of contemporary art, history and culture. 451 00:29:34,800 --> 00:29:38,480 The population is just over two million today, 452 00:29:38,520 --> 00:29:43,120 and the city is steeped in Byzantine and Ottoman history. 453 00:29:49,520 --> 00:29:52,960 Walking around Turkish cities, it's not unusual to see a statue, 454 00:29:53,000 --> 00:29:55,920 but the vast majority of them are Ataturk. 455 00:29:55,960 --> 00:29:59,080 So this is quite a refreshing change. 456 00:29:59,120 --> 00:30:03,760 That is Osman, the originator of the Ottoman Empire. 457 00:30:13,280 --> 00:30:16,880 My first port of call is Bursa Castle. 458 00:30:16,920 --> 00:30:20,880 These walls once circled this inner part of the city, 459 00:30:20,920 --> 00:30:24,640 an area still known as Hisar, or fortress. 460 00:30:24,680 --> 00:30:30,480 At one time, the castle walls had 67 towers and five main gates. 461 00:30:30,520 --> 00:30:34,920 The very first walls were built here over 2,000 years ago, 462 00:30:34,960 --> 00:30:38,680 and they've been restored and modified many times by the Romans, 463 00:30:38,720 --> 00:30:41,920 the Byzantines and the Ottomans. 464 00:30:41,960 --> 00:30:45,840 By the end of the 13th century, raids by Turkish tribes 465 00:30:45,880 --> 00:30:48,840 into Byzantine territory were gathering momentum 466 00:30:48,880 --> 00:30:51,560 and developing into an invasion. 467 00:30:51,600 --> 00:30:57,560 In 1302, Osman secured a key victory - he took the ancient Byzantine 468 00:30:57,600 --> 00:31:01,280 capital of Nicaea, modern Iznik. 469 00:31:01,320 --> 00:31:04,360 And then, he had his sights set on this, 470 00:31:04,400 --> 00:31:06,840 the walled citadel of Bursa. 471 00:31:06,880 --> 00:31:09,120 He laid siege to it. 472 00:31:09,160 --> 00:31:12,600 But, in fact, it went on for so many years that he would die, 473 00:31:12,640 --> 00:31:16,360 and it would be his son, Orhan, who would finally take the city, 474 00:31:16,400 --> 00:31:18,760 making it his capital 475 00:31:18,800 --> 00:31:21,800 and establishing the first Ottoman mint here. 476 00:31:21,840 --> 00:31:25,960 The first Ottoman coins were struck here in Bursa. 477 00:31:34,800 --> 00:31:39,520 In contrast to Ankara, modern day Bursa cherishes and celebrates 478 00:31:39,560 --> 00:31:43,160 the mosques and mausoleums of its Ottoman past. 479 00:31:44,960 --> 00:31:48,120 The city has been carefully crafted around them, 480 00:31:48,160 --> 00:31:52,160 and the many parks here give it a calm and refreshing feel. 481 00:31:54,480 --> 00:31:57,600 I'm heading towards the tomb of Osman. 482 00:32:02,640 --> 00:32:06,000 And just as I arrive, there is an Ottoman display 483 00:32:06,040 --> 00:32:07,960 right at the entrance. 484 00:32:26,560 --> 00:32:29,960 This is the changing of the guard, which happens on the hour, 485 00:32:30,000 --> 00:32:33,200 every hour, every day. 486 00:32:35,960 --> 00:32:40,560 The men dressed as medieval soldiers are local police officers. 487 00:32:40,600 --> 00:32:44,720 This is a sacred national monument, after all. 488 00:32:48,080 --> 00:32:51,440 When they're done, I'm going to try to get inside quickly. 489 00:32:51,480 --> 00:32:54,400 There are a lot of other tourists here. 490 00:33:01,200 --> 00:33:04,640 Well, they've changed the guards. I think I can go in now. 491 00:33:06,280 --> 00:33:12,400 Unlike Ataturk's vast tomb complex, this is on a much more modest scale. 492 00:33:12,440 --> 00:33:16,520 But it still has a quiet aura of power. 493 00:33:16,560 --> 00:33:19,400 This is the mausoleum of Osman himself. 494 00:33:20,960 --> 00:33:26,120 The sultan who started the Ottoman dynasty, the Ottoman Empire. 495 00:33:26,160 --> 00:33:28,880 And that must be his tomb in the centre there. 496 00:33:28,920 --> 00:33:32,440 It's the biggest one, covered with a beautiful embroidered drape, 497 00:33:32,480 --> 00:33:34,320 with a turban at the end. 498 00:33:35,800 --> 00:33:39,720 And I presume these other smaller ones are all his family. 499 00:33:41,480 --> 00:33:44,560 Osman's precise date of death is unknown. 500 00:33:44,600 --> 00:33:48,280 Although the city was eventually taken by his son, Orhan, 501 00:33:48,320 --> 00:33:52,120 some say Osman lived just long enough to hear about the victory 502 00:33:52,160 --> 00:33:53,720 on his deathbed. 503 00:33:55,040 --> 00:33:58,760 What we do know is that Osman's descendants inherited 504 00:33:58,800 --> 00:34:01,560 his ambition for empire building. 505 00:34:24,080 --> 00:34:29,440 Another prominent tourist attraction is down here by the river. 506 00:34:29,480 --> 00:34:33,880 The Nilufer River runs through Bursa, just as it did when Osman 507 00:34:33,920 --> 00:34:38,040 and his son, Orhan, fought here in the 13th century. 508 00:34:42,560 --> 00:34:44,880 In the southern part of the city, 509 00:34:44,920 --> 00:34:47,600 the river has a rather special crossing point. 510 00:34:50,320 --> 00:34:54,000 The Irgandi Bridge was commissioned by a wealthy merchant during 511 00:34:54,040 --> 00:34:59,120 the reign of a sultan, called Murad II, in the 15th century. 512 00:34:59,160 --> 00:35:02,600 It is a rare example of a bridge containing a bazaar, 513 00:35:02,640 --> 00:35:07,520 with shops selling bracelets, artwork and ornaments, and cafes. 514 00:35:10,720 --> 00:35:15,560 There are even traditional crafts happening right here on the bridge. 515 00:35:19,560 --> 00:35:25,120 It's been badly damaged twice, first by an earthquake in 1855, 516 00:35:25,160 --> 00:35:29,040 and in 1922 it was bombed by the retreating Greek army 517 00:35:29,080 --> 00:35:32,360 in the Greco-Turkish War that would eventually 518 00:35:32,400 --> 00:35:34,880 bring about the Ataturk era. 519 00:35:34,920 --> 00:35:38,680 In 1949, it was carefully reconstructed, 520 00:35:38,720 --> 00:35:42,160 and has remained almost untouched ever since. 521 00:35:46,200 --> 00:35:50,360 The Irgandi Bridge feels like a suitable place to pause 522 00:35:50,400 --> 00:35:53,120 and reflect on my Ottoman adventure so far. 523 00:35:54,920 --> 00:35:59,160 I've seen the connection between the beginning and the end. 524 00:35:59,200 --> 00:36:03,080 After the empire broke up, the Republic of Turkey was founded, 525 00:36:03,120 --> 00:36:09,120 in 1923, by Ataturk, a soldier turned politician turned leader, 526 00:36:09,160 --> 00:36:12,040 whose body rests in a mausoleum which is now 527 00:36:12,080 --> 00:36:14,520 a national place of remembrance. 528 00:36:16,040 --> 00:36:19,600 As is also the case, on a somewhat smaller scale, 529 00:36:19,640 --> 00:36:22,840 for the founder of the empire, Osman. 530 00:36:25,680 --> 00:36:29,520 Osman was also a warrior and a leader who inspired 531 00:36:29,560 --> 00:36:34,880 those around him to start the process of building an empire. 532 00:36:34,920 --> 00:36:39,640 My relatively short journey from Ankara to Bursa has spanned 533 00:36:39,680 --> 00:36:42,800 the entire 600 years of Ottoman rule. 534 00:36:45,080 --> 00:36:47,560 I've got one more place to visit here 535 00:36:47,600 --> 00:36:49,840 before I take the train to Istanbul. 536 00:37:03,120 --> 00:37:06,840 Later today I'll be taking a train to Istanbul. 537 00:37:06,880 --> 00:37:10,120 But I want to make the most of my time here in Turkey's 538 00:37:10,160 --> 00:37:15,480 most verdant city, Bursa, often called "Green Bursa". 539 00:37:18,080 --> 00:37:21,160 The city is crammed with parks and gardens, 540 00:37:21,200 --> 00:37:24,200 and surrounded by a large forest. 541 00:37:25,600 --> 00:37:29,480 From here, you can see how the city sits in a low plain 542 00:37:29,520 --> 00:37:31,800 ringed by mountains. 543 00:37:35,800 --> 00:37:39,160 Bursa has eight Unesco World Heritage Sites, 544 00:37:39,200 --> 00:37:41,960 and I'm going to see one of them next. 545 00:37:46,120 --> 00:37:50,040 This is the Green Tomb, which is where I've arranged 546 00:37:50,080 --> 00:37:53,400 to meet Begum Yildizeli, from the local university. 547 00:37:56,280 --> 00:37:58,280 Begum! Alice! Hello. 548 00:37:58,320 --> 00:38:00,200 Welcome to Bursa. Thank you so much. 549 00:38:00,240 --> 00:38:02,840 It's lovely to meet you. Yes, so lovely to see you here. 550 00:38:02,880 --> 00:38:06,000 And at this historic place. I mean, this is absolutely beautiful. 551 00:38:06,040 --> 00:38:08,960 This is the tomb of the fifth sultan? 552 00:38:09,000 --> 00:38:11,400 Yes, exactly. Yeah. 553 00:38:11,440 --> 00:38:14,640 His name is Mehmed, Mehmed I. Yeah. 554 00:38:14,680 --> 00:38:17,480 He lived in the 15th century. Yeah. 555 00:38:17,520 --> 00:38:21,960 And this tomb was built for his funeral, 556 00:38:22,000 --> 00:38:25,080 and for his sons, for his daughters. 557 00:38:25,120 --> 00:38:27,360 It's such a gorgeous colour. Yeah! 558 00:38:27,400 --> 00:38:30,040 I know it's called the Green Tomb, but it looks blue to me. 559 00:38:30,080 --> 00:38:32,360 It's actually called turkuaz. 560 00:38:32,400 --> 00:38:35,320 Yeah. It's a Turkish blue, kind of a Turkish blue. 561 00:38:35,360 --> 00:38:37,160 Oh! So, turquoise... 562 00:38:37,200 --> 00:38:39,680 Turquoise means Turkish? Exactly, exactly. 563 00:38:39,720 --> 00:38:42,360 Do you know, I'd never realised that. I feel really stupid. 564 00:38:42,400 --> 00:38:43,840 THEY LAUGH 565 00:38:43,880 --> 00:38:46,880 That's OK. Don't worry, don't worry. Turquoise is Turkish. 566 00:38:50,480 --> 00:38:54,920 The Green Tomb was made for the fifth Ottoman sultan, Mehmed. 567 00:38:54,960 --> 00:38:59,080 He's known as the founder of the Second Ottoman Empire. 568 00:38:59,120 --> 00:39:01,640 Can we go in? Yeah, sure. Can we see his tomb inside? 569 00:39:01,680 --> 00:39:03,320 Yeah, yeah. Yeah. 570 00:39:03,360 --> 00:39:08,760 Mehmed and his brothers fought each other in an all-consuming civil war. 571 00:39:08,800 --> 00:39:11,720 And then, with an attack from Mongols in the east, 572 00:39:11,760 --> 00:39:15,440 this was a period of total conflict that almost put an end 573 00:39:15,480 --> 00:39:17,240 to the whole empire. 574 00:39:18,520 --> 00:39:21,160 Mehmed battled and won full control, 575 00:39:21,200 --> 00:39:23,960 not just reviving the Ottoman Empire, 576 00:39:24,000 --> 00:39:26,920 but expanding it up into the Balkans. 577 00:39:26,960 --> 00:39:32,120 So, this one is Mehmed Celebi, Sultan Mehmed I. 578 00:39:32,160 --> 00:39:33,480 Yeah. 579 00:39:33,520 --> 00:39:36,440 And these are the sons. 580 00:39:36,480 --> 00:39:38,960 Two sons, four daughters. 581 00:39:40,400 --> 00:39:42,760 So, their bodies are not in these sarcophagi? 582 00:39:42,800 --> 00:39:44,840 No, they are just symbols. Yeah. 583 00:39:44,880 --> 00:39:47,160 They are just symbolic. Ah. 584 00:39:47,200 --> 00:39:49,720 There are rooms underground. 585 00:39:49,760 --> 00:39:51,880 It's a little bit like with the tomb of Ataturk, 586 00:39:51,920 --> 00:39:54,040 with the mausoleum of Ataturk. Exactly. 587 00:39:54,080 --> 00:39:56,680 That has a symbolic sarcophagus. Yes, yes, very symbolic. 588 00:39:56,720 --> 00:39:59,240 But, actually, he's buried under the floor. Yes, yes, you're right. 589 00:39:59,280 --> 00:40:00,600 Yeah. Yeah. 590 00:40:00,640 --> 00:40:02,960 And there's this... what's the name of that niche 591 00:40:03,000 --> 00:40:05,800 that's the same as you have in mosques? Niche... 592 00:40:05,840 --> 00:40:09,240 Yeah, we call it mimbash in Turkish. Yeah. 593 00:40:09,280 --> 00:40:12,400 Some of them, they are not original, 594 00:40:12,440 --> 00:40:17,320 because there was an earthquake in the 19th century. Right, OK. 595 00:40:17,360 --> 00:40:20,800 So, they replaced the... 596 00:40:20,840 --> 00:40:22,240 Yeah. 597 00:40:22,280 --> 00:40:24,880 So, part of it is probably original. Yeah, part of it original. 598 00:40:24,920 --> 00:40:26,920 Original 15th century. Yes, yes. Yeah. 599 00:40:30,680 --> 00:40:34,800 They say the world is not the place to live. 600 00:40:34,840 --> 00:40:37,360 The main place is afterlife. 601 00:40:39,080 --> 00:40:41,440 So, as well, it's fitting for a tomb, isn't it, 602 00:40:41,480 --> 00:40:44,120 to have verses about the afterlife? Yes. Yeah. Yeah. 603 00:40:47,040 --> 00:40:51,240 Mehmed's tomb lies within a traditional Ottoman complex. 604 00:40:51,280 --> 00:40:53,760 There's a school, or madrasa, 605 00:40:53,800 --> 00:40:56,240 a library, a mosque, 606 00:40:56,280 --> 00:40:58,720 and, of course, a bazaar. 607 00:40:58,760 --> 00:41:02,520 This is an architectural model that the Ottomans repeated again 608 00:41:02,560 --> 00:41:05,760 and again across their entire empire. 609 00:41:05,800 --> 00:41:09,560 So, that complex, that forms the nucleus of the city? 610 00:41:09,600 --> 00:41:13,240 Yeah. At the time, yes. Yeah. 611 00:41:15,880 --> 00:41:19,760 But the calm environment of the Green Tomb doesn't reflect 612 00:41:19,800 --> 00:41:24,040 the unsettling time in the empire when Mehmed fought the brutal 613 00:41:24,080 --> 00:41:29,360 civil war against his brothers, a conflict that lasted 11 years. 614 00:41:29,400 --> 00:41:32,360 So, there's four brothers fighting it out for control 615 00:41:32,400 --> 00:41:34,920 of the Ottoman Empire. Yes, yes. For control, like Game of Thrones. 616 00:41:34,960 --> 00:41:36,520 Yeah, yeah. At the time. 617 00:41:36,560 --> 00:41:41,880 And he was succeeding, uniting the empire. 618 00:41:41,920 --> 00:41:44,280 That's why he was called as the second founder 619 00:41:44,320 --> 00:41:46,200 of the Ottoman Empire. 620 00:41:46,240 --> 00:41:49,880 Because Osman I was the founder of the empire. Yeah. 621 00:41:49,920 --> 00:41:55,480 So, that's why he was that precious for the Ottoman people. 622 00:41:55,520 --> 00:41:59,520 He's an important sultan, his tomb is here. 623 00:41:59,560 --> 00:42:02,320 At that time, was Bursa the capital of the Ottoman Empire then? 624 00:42:02,360 --> 00:42:03,800 Yes, yes. 625 00:42:03,840 --> 00:42:07,400 It has a special meaning, because the Ottomans always targeted 626 00:42:07,440 --> 00:42:10,880 to take Constantinople from Byzantine Empire. 627 00:42:10,920 --> 00:42:13,400 Right from the beginning? Right from the beginning. 628 00:42:13,440 --> 00:42:20,920 So, they keep attacking Byzantine towns and areas, and... 629 00:42:20,960 --> 00:42:24,680 You know, in the middle of 15th century, they were succeeding 630 00:42:24,720 --> 00:42:29,040 taking Constantinople. Yeah. 631 00:42:29,080 --> 00:42:32,800 Mehmed's great-great-grandfather, Osman, is said to have been 632 00:42:32,840 --> 00:42:35,920 inspired by a dream. 633 00:42:35,960 --> 00:42:40,760 According to the dream, a tree came out his bosom 634 00:42:40,800 --> 00:42:43,320 and expands into whole world. 635 00:42:43,360 --> 00:42:47,960 So, that means Osman will have an empire, you know, 636 00:42:48,000 --> 00:42:51,320 govern the people, and so on. 637 00:42:51,360 --> 00:42:55,840 So, this is kind of a foundation for the state of affairs and, 638 00:42:55,880 --> 00:42:59,680 as I said, you know, imagination of the people, maybe. Yeah, yeah. 639 00:42:59,720 --> 00:43:02,600 It's fascinating, isn't it? Cos I think, you know, a dream like that, 640 00:43:02,640 --> 00:43:05,440 where you imagine a tree growing out of your chest... Yes. 641 00:43:05,480 --> 00:43:08,600 ..and that tree then covers the whole empire. Yes, yes. 642 00:43:08,640 --> 00:43:12,240 And that's thinking about where the empire goes in the future. 643 00:43:12,280 --> 00:43:14,920 Also, it gives some authority. 644 00:43:14,960 --> 00:43:16,560 Exactly. 645 00:43:16,600 --> 00:43:19,520 It provides almost a kind of divine authority to what you're doing. 646 00:43:19,560 --> 00:43:21,640 Indeed, indeed. If it's true or not. 647 00:43:21,680 --> 00:43:24,440 If it's true or... It worked. Yeah, yeah. 648 00:43:24,480 --> 00:43:28,120 I think it's really fascinating coming here to look at this tomb, 649 00:43:28,160 --> 00:43:31,840 having come to Bursa from Ankara, 650 00:43:31,880 --> 00:43:35,400 where I saw the mausoleum of Ataturk. 651 00:43:35,440 --> 00:43:37,880 I know he started something different, you know, 652 00:43:37,920 --> 00:43:40,200 he initiated the Turkish Republic. Mm-hm. 653 00:43:40,240 --> 00:43:43,040 But there's something in that kind of creation of a mausoleum 654 00:43:43,080 --> 00:43:46,680 and the ideas that it encapsulates, as well. Mm-hm. 655 00:43:46,720 --> 00:43:49,120 It does seem to hark back to these very early days 656 00:43:49,160 --> 00:43:51,080 of the Ottoman Empire. Yeah. 657 00:43:51,120 --> 00:43:54,440 You touch a very nice point. I think so. 658 00:43:54,480 --> 00:43:59,840 Because, as you said, he was the founder of the new Turkey, 659 00:43:59,880 --> 00:44:05,360 modern Turkey. So, yeah, maybe it's kind of a tradition for us... 660 00:44:05,400 --> 00:44:07,920 Yeah. ..to begin like that. 661 00:44:07,960 --> 00:44:09,680 Parallel, as you said. Yeah. 662 00:44:09,720 --> 00:44:12,920 Parallel to Ottomans and the new republic. 663 00:44:23,240 --> 00:44:26,520 My time in Bursa has come to an end. 664 00:44:26,560 --> 00:44:31,360 After the bustle of Ankara, this city - with its layers of history 665 00:44:31,400 --> 00:44:35,000 and green spaces - has felt like an oasis. 666 00:44:55,400 --> 00:45:00,040 My next stop is the greatest city in Turkey, Istanbul, 667 00:45:00,080 --> 00:45:03,320 the old Constantinople - where the Ottomans gained their 668 00:45:03,360 --> 00:45:06,720 biggest victory, and from where they would go on to rule 669 00:45:06,760 --> 00:45:10,000 over three continents for centuries. 670 00:45:20,880 --> 00:45:24,560 I've left Bursa behind, and I'm on my way now to Istanbul, 671 00:45:24,600 --> 00:45:28,520 and this moves along the story of the Ottoman Empire, as well. 672 00:45:28,560 --> 00:45:34,160 As Begum told me, the early Ottoman sultans had their eye on this prize, 673 00:45:34,200 --> 00:45:38,240 Constantinople, the capital of the Byzantine Empire. 674 00:45:38,280 --> 00:45:44,320 And it was Mehmed I's grandson - who was also called Mehmed, Mehmed II - 675 00:45:44,360 --> 00:45:47,280 who would finally capture the city. 676 00:45:47,320 --> 00:45:52,280 And when he did, he announced himself to be Kayser-i Rum, 677 00:45:52,320 --> 00:45:55,040 the new Roman Emperor. 678 00:46:01,680 --> 00:46:04,680 Subtitles by Red Bee Media 57816

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