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1
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2
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我是贝尔吉罗斯
3
00:00:12,617 --> 00:00:14,753
我曾在英国特种部队服役
4
00:00:14,853 --> 00:00:19,257
我曾登上圣母峰顶横越北冰洋
5
00:00:20,392 --> 00:00:25,063
现在我挑战的是在地表最险恶的地方求生
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00:00:25,197 --> 00:00:25,363
阿拉斯加
7
00:00:28,433 --> 00:00:33,371
每年都有超遇百万游客到访此地500多人失踪
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00:00:34,806 --> 00:00:36,274
我要示范生存所需的技巧
9
00:00:39,745 --> 00:00:41,313
荒野求生秘技
10
00:00:42,214 --> 00:00:46,184
这里是阿拉斯加沿岸就在北极圈正下方
11
00:00:48,720 --> 00:00:50,522
这里地形多燮
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00:00:50,622 --> 00:00:55,827
有无尽的海岸线浓密的森林和巨大的冰河
13
00:00:57,963 --> 00:01:00,098
我要直上阿拉斯加的最高处
14
00:01:00,198 --> 00:01:04,536
人们来这里，登山．健行和滑雪享受野趣
15
00:01:04,636 --> 00:01:07,139
但危机也伴随着刺激而来
16
00:01:07,239 --> 00:01:10,642
每年有超过20人丧生
17
00:01:14,980 --> 00:01:17,550
我将示范如何在这种荒野生存
18
00:01:17,650 --> 00:01:20,500
飞行员随时会把我放到其中一座山头
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00:01:20,974 --> 00:01:23,544
你距离着陆地区400尺
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100尺，50尺
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我只带了滑雪用具．刀一个水壶和一快火石
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00:01:34,124 --> 00:01:37,927
摄影小组会全程跟着我
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全美最高山有1 7座位于阿拉斯加
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00:01:42,941 --> 00:01:47,145
这里是每位极限滑雪者心目中的天堂
25
00:01:47,245 --> 00:01:52,984
这里地广人稀是美国真正的蛮荒之地
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好美，在群山间感觉真奇妙
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滑雪客最大的威胁是雪崩
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北美每年约有40人死于雪崩
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转错一个弯整片山坡便可能压在你身上
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你必须了解如何避开雪崩
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避开雪崩的诀窍是判断积雪
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00:02:38,092 --> 00:02:41,262
你可以将雪杖插到前方地面测试
33
00:02:41,362 --> 00:02:44,499
检查积雪是密实或者是松散
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00:02:44,632 --> 00:02:48,870
安全的积雪插入雪杖时感觉紧实一致
35
00:02:48,970 --> 00:02:52,373
如果插下去时．稹雪突然稍微凹陷
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00:02:52,507 --> 00:02:56,311
代表积雪有很多屠，很危险
37
00:02:59,647 --> 00:03:03,885
雪崩多半是由经验不足的滑雪或滑板滑雪者所引起
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00:03:03,985 --> 00:03:09,624
他们来此享爱这里常有的40尺初雪
39
00:03:09,757 --> 00:03:11,292
2006年
40
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一名安克拉治的滑板滑雪客引发200尺宽的雪崩
41
00:03:15,463 --> 00:03:17,565
地点就在类似这样的山坡
42
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他的尸体3个月后才被找到
43
00:03:20,768 --> 00:03:23,638
他摔落到1600尺下方
44
00:03:26,507 --> 00:03:33,548
我下降了至少5千尺总算将高山雪坡抛在背后
45
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岩石太多，不可能继续滑雪
46
00:03:39,857 --> 00:03:42,019
滑雪屐只会减慢我的速度还是扔了比较好
47
00:03:42,118 --> 00:03:45,822
我下方是冰河，就是冰冻之河
48
00:03:45,956 --> 00:03:47,259
像河流一样．冰河也往下坡流
49
00:03:47,393 --> 00:03:49,398
如果能走到冰河应该就能沿着冰河离开山区
50
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想过去冰河必须沿着山脊走但这不容易
51
00:03:52,171 --> 00:03:54,572
温度急速下降
52
00:04:04,386 --> 00:04:08,958
阿拉斯加的气温最低可连零下60度
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00:04:09,058 --> 00:04:11,794
在山区永远有冻伤的危险
54
00:04:11,927 --> 00:04:16,932
要小心的部位是四肢 包括手，脚，脸
55
00:04:17,032 --> 00:04:22,838
冻伤的征兆是肤色燮成艳红，最后燮黑
56
00:04:22,972 --> 00:04:26,842
我在圣母峰登山客身上看过很严重的冻伤
57
00:04:26,976 --> 00:04:29,745
冻伤真的很恐怖也很痛苦
58
00:04:35,535 --> 00:04:38,304
这条山脊引我到北向坡
59
00:04:38,438 --> 00:04:42,509
这里阳光较少．仍然覆盖着积雪
60
00:04:47,594 --> 00:04:50,230
天气看来不太好
61
00:04:50,330 --> 00:04:53,166
被困在恶劣天气中可能小命不保
62
00:04:53,300 --> 00:04:55,068
我必须赶快下山
63
00:04:55,168 --> 00:04:58,405
但下方的斜坡超过300尺
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00:04:58,505 --> 00:05:01,675
我可以爬下去但那得花好几小时
65
00:05:01,808 --> 00:05:05,879
我要使用登山客的滑降技巧
66
00:05:09,016 --> 00:05:13,487
往下滑的时候将冰斧插入地面可减缓滑速
67
00:05:13,620 --> 00:05:18,258
我没有冰斧我将雪杖折成两半来代替
68
00:05:18,392 --> 00:05:24,264
说真的，看到云层积聚过来甚至看不到滑降的终点
69
00:05:24,364 --> 00:05:28,001
我很担心这次滑降
70
00:05:28,101 --> 00:05:32,706
这种技巧有其风险但在危急时能够救命
71
00:05:32,839 --> 00:05:36,043
如果棍子插得不够用力滑速会太快
72
00:05:36,143 --> 00:05:41,148
但插得太用力棍子有可能从手中脱落
73
00:06:12,546 --> 00:06:14,247
速度好快
74
00:06:15,315 --> 00:06:21,088
我以前滑降过几次但没滑过那么陡的长距离
75
00:06:21,221 --> 00:06:24,758
我估计刚才的时速有50哩
76
00:06:24,891 --> 00:06:27,527
大幅缩短了我下山的时间
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00:06:34,601 --> 00:06:36,269
我抵达冰河
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00:06:36,370 --> 00:06:40,006
阿拉斯加有超过十万座冰河
79
00:06:41,308 --> 00:06:45,078
冰河拥有地球最大的淡水资源
80
00:06:45,212 --> 00:06:48,281
但问题是冰河充满冰隙
81
00:06:48,415 --> 00:06:52,886
幽深的冰谷常覆盖层层积雪
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唯一安全的行进方式是盘上绷索，结伴同行
83
00:07:13,276 --> 00:07:18,949
我没有登山伙伴必须尽快到达坚实的地面
84
00:07:25,843 --> 00:07:31,115
你看，我看到冰河的尽头了
85
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对．那绝对是冰河出山的地方真是松了一口气
86
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终于快要离开冰雪之地了
87
00:07:42,293 --> 00:07:45,996
但冰河最后还有一道险阻
88
00:07:46,096 --> 00:07:48,098
我走到陡峭的山崖边
89
00:07:48,932 --> 00:07:51,669
这里是冰河底部
90
00:07:51,802 --> 00:07:55,539
冰碛陡直下降形成大约40尺的瀑布
91
00:07:55,673 --> 00:08:00,110
我穿着滑雪靴又没有绳索不可能爬得下去
92
00:08:00,244 --> 00:08:01,812
我得另外设法
93
00:08:08,506 --> 00:08:12,043
我被空投到偏远严寒的阿拉斯加山脉
94
00:08:12,160 --> 00:08:15,663
但我得先爬下冰河
95
00:08:20,411 --> 00:08:22,048
下去的路被60尺瀑布阻断
96
00:08:22,148 --> 00:08:24,451
但我看到另一条出路了
97
00:08:28,096 --> 00:08:30,698
有一条冰下隧道直入冰河
98
00:08:30,798 --> 00:08:35,470
这是融冰水在冰下流动所形成的隧道
99
00:08:35,570 --> 00:08:38,473
但这条隧道可以带我出去
100
00:08:42,143 --> 00:08:44,912
冰下的隧道是极不稳定的地方
101
00:08:45,013 --> 00:08:48,516
冰河一天最多可移动60尺
102
00:08:49,150 --> 00:08:52,754
进入之前先确认冰够坚实
103
00:09:03,731 --> 00:09:06,801
我上方的冰层可能超过200尺
104
00:09:06,935 --> 00:09:10,004
随时都可能塌陷
105
00:09:13,541 --> 00:09:16,611
非到万不得已最好别轻易尝试
106
00:09:18,279 --> 00:09:21,516
这里很容易让人有幽闭恐惧
107
00:09:21,616 --> 00:09:24,786
不晓得大家能不能看到四周
108
00:09:24,919 --> 00:09:28,556
但此地不宜久留
109
00:09:28,690 --> 00:09:31,960
我曾经差点死在圣母峰的冰河
110
00:09:32,093 --> 00:09:35,597
当时我脚下的冰隙突然崩塌
111
00:09:38,333 --> 00:09:42,403
这地方并没有勾起美好回忆我只想离开这里
112
00:09:42,971 --> 00:09:46,808
越深入隧道就越难回头
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00:10:03,057 --> 00:10:07,795
我看到前面有阳光，那是出路
114
00:10:09,597 --> 00:10:15,270
我从没这么如释重负总算离开冰河了
115
00:10:19,874 --> 00:10:24,979
真高兴能离开冰河来到开阔的地方
116
00:10:25,113 --> 00:10:30,318
但最棒的是总算能脱掉笨重的滑雪靴
117
00:10:32,887 --> 00:10:38,393
喔．真舒服．我要留下内靴
118
00:10:38,526 --> 00:10:42,563
这不太适合走路但我需要保护双脚
119
00:10:42,697 --> 00:10:45,566
再来的地形会比较难走
120
00:10:47,422 --> 00:10:50,859
出了山区我得缓绩向下走希望能找到食物和栖身之所
121
00:10:57,023 --> 00:11:01,094
哇，海鸥发动俯衡攻掣
122
00:11:01,228 --> 00:11:04,631
可见我大概走进筑巢区
123
00:11:04,731 --> 00:11:08,535
他们只想保护蛋
124
00:11:08,668 --> 00:11:15,408
但我要看能不能找到岛巢也许能弄到鸟蛋来吃
125
00:11:17,444 --> 00:11:20,480
时值6月．正是主要产卵季
126
00:11:20,614 --> 00:11:23,650
每个岛巢可能有2，3颗蛋
127
00:11:23,783 --> 00:11:27,687
每颗蛋都富含蛋白质维他命和矿物质
128
00:11:35,579 --> 00:11:35,613
我找遍了河岸
129
00:11:37,781 --> 00:11:40,818
根本找不到这些家伙扞卫的东西
130
00:11:43,050 --> 00:11:47,855
地貌逐渐开阔我看得到前方的林线
131
00:11:48,767 --> 00:11:50,338
我饿了，而且天空开始下雨
132
00:11:51,561 --> 00:11:55,265
但至少我快到森林了
133
00:11:55,365 --> 00:11:58,468
状况不错，我看到云层逐渐消散
134
00:11:58,568 --> 00:12:03,606
我看到下方有浓密的森林而且似乎有深谷
135
00:12:03,706 --> 00:12:08,811
谷底可能有河我就是要往河边前进
136
00:12:17,134 --> 00:12:20,338
我知道阿拉斯加村庄多半在河边
137
00:12:20,471 --> 00:12:23,374
若能找到村庄就应该能找到人
138
00:12:23,508 --> 00:12:26,111
但我得先穿越浓密的林下植物
139
00:12:26,111 --> 00:12:30,647
我只能看到前方几尺
140
00:12:30,648 --> 00:12:33,015
这里的感觉诡异阴冷
141
00:12:35,453 --> 00:12:37,355
我知道这里是熊的国度
142
00:12:37,488 --> 00:12:39,690
黑熊和棕熊都棱息在此地
143
00:12:39,824 --> 00:12:41,731
棕熊体重可达1100磅身高9吹，能将人撕成两半
144
00:12:41,864 --> 00:12:43,235
瞧．看得到熊抓过树干的痕迹
145
00:12:43,235 --> 00:12:46,471
这都是他们标示地盘的方式
146
00:12:52,324 --> 00:12:55,027
最近有一名健行者死在这里
147
00:12:55,127 --> 00:12:57,329
当守林园找到他的屁骸
148
00:12:57,462 --> 00:13:02,234
现场还发现熊血和空弹壳
149
00:13:02,334 --> 00:13:07,973
健行者向熊发射2枪但那不足以阻止熊的攻击
150
00:13:08,073 --> 00:13:12,044
但成群结对者很少遭到攻击理由很简单
151
00:13:12,177 --> 00:13:16,682
人多就表示噪音多那能让熊退避三舍
152
00:13:16,815 --> 00:13:19,918
孤单一人最容易受到攻击
153
00:13:20,052 --> 00:13:23,488
熊类受惊的时候最危险
154
00:13:23,622 --> 00:13:28,260
其实最常被攻击的多半是猎人因为他们老是鬼鬼祟祟
155
00:13:28,393 --> 00:13:32,631
所以落单时务必不断制造声音
156
00:13:32,731 --> 00:13:34,700
让熊知道你在这路
157
00:13:34,833 --> 00:13:36,401
虽然听来奇怪
158
00:13:36,501 --> 00:13:41,406
但我在这边边走边喊：唷，熊熊
159
00:13:41,506 --> 00:13:44,176
只是为了把熊赶开
160
00:13:44,276 --> 00:13:45,143
唷．熊熊
161
00:14:00,993 --> 00:14:05,130
不论我发出多少声音心里仍然毛毛的
162
00:14:06,031 --> 00:14:07,432
这是熊粪
163
00:14:07,566 --> 00:14:15,240
好消息是粪便里有浆果籽
164
00:14:15,374 --> 00:14:18,911
可见这附近有浆果
165
00:14:19,044 --> 00:14:23,649
坏消息是这一带有熊这粪便大概是1天前拉的
166
00:14:25,117 --> 00:14:28,287
我必须离开．但没那麽容易
167
00:14:28,420 --> 00:14:30,255
这些林下植物很难缠
168
00:14:30,389 --> 00:14:32,724
走一步痛一步
169
00:14:32,858 --> 00:14:34,593
这些都是刺参
170
00:14:34,693 --> 00:14:38,697
这是我碰通最多尖刺的植物
171
00:14:38,830 --> 00:14:42,067
你能看到尖刺长满了叶柄
172
00:14:42,200 --> 00:14:47,039
还有叶片上全是刺
173
00:14:47,172 --> 00:14:49,908
花苞长出来也带刺
174
00:14:50,042 --> 00:14:53,579
根也有刺，穿越这里真痛苦
175
00:14:53,679 --> 00:14:57,916
但是对原住民来说这是最珍贵的药用植物
176
00:14:58,050 --> 00:15:00,619
富含各种好成分，有很多人参
177
00:15:00,719 --> 00:15:04,590
但要从中间走过去就不好玩了
178
00:15:04,690 --> 00:15:11,163
据说人参能增强体力和精力我正需要元气
179
00:15:13,365 --> 00:15:16,535
一条小溪流过刺参之同
180
00:15:16,621 --> 00:15:19,557
如果运气好，小溪应该能带我离开森林
181
00:15:19,821 --> 00:15:21,990
这表示我可以加紧脚步
182
00:15:22,123 --> 00:15:25,527
但荒野难以预料
183
00:15:25,627 --> 00:15:27,564
走了几百码后．我遇到一大障碍
184
00:15:27,697 --> 00:15:30,332
一个大瀑布
185
00:15:33,522 --> 00:15:37,259
我必须选择爬下瀑布或走回刺参从
186
00:15:37,392 --> 00:15:39,494
这两个选择都不好
187
00:15:44,570 --> 00:15:45,538
我被困在阿拉斯加森林里
188
00:15:45,671 --> 00:15:49,308
我要设法前往海边，但遭遇障碍
189
00:15:49,442 --> 00:15:54,313
这个瀑布超过200尺，相当危险
190
00:15:54,447 --> 00:15:59,051
但我是攀爬老手我要示范如何下去
191
00:16:02,021 --> 00:16:07,193
最要紧的就是下去时要慢慢来
192
00:16:07,293 --> 00:16:12,665
许多攀爬以外是因为人在紧张情况下容易躁进
193
00:16:12,798 --> 00:16:15,334
但我告诉大家就算你做过千百次
194
00:16:15,468 --> 00:16:18,871
但只要一次失误就完了
195
00:16:21,274 --> 00:16:25,811
岩石非常滑溜．很容易出错
196
00:16:25,912 --> 00:16:30,249
为了爬下去我必须遵守基 本的攀爬规则
197
00:16:30,349 --> 00:16:32,485
靠腿部承受重量
198
00:16:32,618 --> 00:16:36,622
太多人试图用手臂攀爬结果臂力不够
199
00:16:36,722 --> 00:16:38,691
但竖腿有力多了
200
00:16:38,824 --> 00:16:43,329
你只要用手臂稳住身体保持平衡
201
00:16:49,635 --> 00:16:54,640
有很多松动的岩石我得测试每个手点
202
00:16:55,842 --> 00:17:00,079
瀑布中段的水力冲击更大使得攀爬困难许多
203
00:17:00,213 --> 00:17:04,684
感觉就像背着一倜人往下爬
204
00:17:05,718 --> 00:17:06,853
好吧
205
00:17:12,592 --> 00:17:14,660
最后一段近平垂直
206
00:17:14,794 --> 00:17:19,265
冰冷的冰河水来势汹汹将我用力向下推
207
00:17:19,398 --> 00:17:22,668
寒意让攀爬燮得困难许多
208
00:17:38,786 --> 00:17:41,889
这水好冰
209
00:17:41,989 --> 00:17:47,762
我的手都麻了，几乎抓不牢
210
00:17:47,895 --> 00:17:50,531
我现在回头往上看
211
00:17:50,664 --> 00:17:56,070
瀑布比我爬下时想像的还陡峭许多
212
00:18:01,180 --> 00:18:04,349
这里夏季的白天将近24小时
213
00:18:04,349 --> 00:18:09,985
我已经走了好几个小时，需要休息
214
00:18:09,986 --> 00:18:13,755
为了求生，一定要保持斗志
215
00:18:13,888 --> 00:18:17,225
对我来说，火最能提振斗志
216
00:18:19,774 --> 00:18:23,544
阿拉斯加森林估地将近6百万英亩
217
00:18:23,644 --> 00:18:26,313
其中以云杉和赤杨最常见
218
00:18:26,414 --> 00:18:29,116
两种树都是搭建栖身所的好材料
219
00:18:30,390 --> 00:18:35,062
为了搭建栖身所我需要大约十棵赤裼幼苗
220
00:18:35,162 --> 00:18:41,602
砍树的最好方法是折弯树干 直到出现紧崩
221
00:18:41,735 --> 00:18:49,376
当纤维受压你用刀子便能割断
222
00:18:52,679 --> 00:18:55,082
你可以从叶子辨识赤杨
223
00:18:55,182 --> 00:18:58,719
叶片呈锯齿状．互生长在茎干上
224
00:18:58,819 --> 00:19:01,955
我要拿云杉当屋顶
225
00:19:02,089 --> 00:19:06,326
我要搭建的棚子叫做半穹式棚子
226
00:19:06,426 --> 00:19:10,104
如果我把底端插在这里拉拢雨根树枝交错编织
227
00:19:10,104 --> 00:19:16,544
为了防水，必须从底部开始 往上一层层堆叠云杉
228
00:19:18,804 --> 00:19:20,806
我只需要火
229
00:19:20,806 --> 00:19:23,476
我一向携带火石以便生火
230
00:19:23,476 --> 00:19:27,280
地上的柳枝通常是很好的引火物但它很潮湿
231
00:19:27,280 --> 00:19:31,684
所以生火会很费力
232
00:19:33,684 --> 00:19:35,820
已经用掉一半了
233
00:19:35,820 --> 00:19:37,355
出师不利
234
00:19:49,940 --> 00:19:52,543
黑熊杀死的人数不及北美灰熊
235
00:19:52,676 --> 00:19:54,645
但九成的黑熊攻击事件中
236
00:19:54,745 --> 00:19:57,815
黑熊会将人视为猎物追捕
237
00:19:57,915 --> 00:20:00,184
很多本地人会携带枪支
238
00:20:00,284 --> 00:20:06,056
如果没有枪．就只能拿棍子设法戳进熊的眼晴
239
00:20:30,607 --> 00:20:35,879
人体有生理时钟让人在天黑入睡，天亮醒来
240
00:20:36,081 --> 00:20:42,287
在这种黑夜只有4小时的地方很难饱睡一晚
241
00:20:49,823 --> 00:20:52,726
现在是早上5点，天已经亮了
242
00:20:52,726 --> 00:20:55,229
我醒来，感觉不太好
243
00:20:55,229 --> 00:20:57,262
还在下雨
244
00:21:15,082 --> 00:21:18,819
我要继续跟着昨天找到的溪流走
245
00:21:18,919 --> 00:21:23,590
我看到谷底有河，我得过去那里
246
00:21:23,662 --> 00:21:25,898
但沿着河流前进并不容易
247
00:21:25,998 --> 00:21:30,335
很多小溪汇流到河里逼得我必须不断涉溪
248
00:21:30,469 --> 00:21:31,502
啊，好冷
249
00:21:36,138 --> 00:21:38,774
水很急
250
00:21:40,042 --> 00:21:45,881
这些冰川既湍急又冰冷
251
00:21:50,919 --> 00:21:56,258
千万要保持面向上游才能抵抗水流
252
00:22:06,835 --> 00:22:09,538
走了几里之后，河面变宽
253
00:22:09,671 --> 00:22:11,707
一定快接近海岸了
254
00:22:22,568 --> 00:22:25,271
终于到海边了
255
00:22:26,399 --> 00:22:31,972
我来到阿拉斯加海岸线的许多小湾之一
256
00:22:32,105 --> 00:22:33,974
我獾救的最大机会
257
00:22:34,107 --> 00:22:38,712
就是希望在本区捕鱼的众多小渔船能发现我
258
00:22:47,792 --> 00:22:51,929
你瞧这个，是死鲑鱼那里还有一只
259
00:22:52,030 --> 00:22:55,933
太好了这表示鲑鱼从这里溯溪而上
260
00:22:56,034 --> 00:23:00,171
鲑鱼常常从200哩外的大海游回来
261
00:23:00,271 --> 00:23:03,775
找到他们出生的河流甚至是同一条支流
262
00:23:03,908 --> 00:23:07,211
回去产卵后死亡
263
00:23:10,381 --> 00:23:12,817
河里满是国王鲑和粉红鲑
264
00:23:15,987 --> 00:23:21,059
我没有钓鱼线得用别的方法抓鱼
265
00:23:29,400 --> 00:23:31,602
我要用树枝做鱼叉
266
00:23:31,736 --> 00:23:32,937
我找到一棵树
267
00:23:33,037 --> 00:23:37,308
主干上的树枝呈V字型延伸长达4尺
268
00:23:37,408 --> 00:23:40,211
第一步是清光其他细枝
269
00:23:40,345 --> 00:23:45,650
然后折断两根树枝并消尖
270
00:23:45,783 --> 00:23:48,353
这能刺穿坚韧的鱼皮
271
00:23:48,453 --> 00:23:52,457
让鱼动弹不得我就能用手抓鱼
272
00:23:52,590 --> 00:23:58,796
做鱼叉只花了10分锺 但抓鱼可能要久多了
273
00:23:58,930 --> 00:24:01,599
水里大概有一千只鲑鱼
274
00:24:01,733 --> 00:24:04,135
但水太深，不能叉鱼
275
00:24:04,235 --> 00:24:10,141
我想如果能把鱼赶到浅水区胜算就会比较大
276
00:24:19,517 --> 00:24:21,119
我的战术奏效
277
00:24:21,219 --> 00:24:24,555
鲑鱼游往我要他们去的浅水区
278
00:24:26,557 --> 00:24:31,162
我看到那里有好多鱼他们在6寸深的水中
279
00:24:31,262 --> 00:24:36,234
抓鱼的秘抉就是徒下游稳定地靠近
280
00:24:36,367 --> 00:24:39,404
鲑鱼的主要掠食者之一是老鹰
281
00:24:39,537 --> 00:24:44,008
老鹰会从上方猛扑而下因此鲑鱼对阴影十分敏感
282
00:24:44,142 --> 00:24:46,945
鲑鱼如果看到我的影子就会游走
283
00:24:47,045 --> 00:24:49,414
我要等待完美的时机
284
00:24:49,547 --> 00:24:53,117
我一动不动站着，鱼开始靠过来
285
00:24:53,217 --> 00:24:55,853
但他们似乎总在我够不到得地方
286
00:24:55,987 --> 00:24:59,824
听说抓鱼的秘诀是保持耐心
287
00:24:59,958 --> 00:25:03,461
我大概是你见过最没耐心的人
288
00:25:03,594 --> 00:25:06,664
现在我要采取比较具攻掣性的方法
289
00:25:14,009 --> 00:25:19,915
我本来有叉到鱼，差点就成功了
290
00:25:19,915 --> 00:25:23,552
畦，没抓到
291
00:25:29,007 --> 00:25:31,277
最后摄影小组磅我抓到一条
292
00:25:31,818 --> 00:25:34,421
我用手插入雨侧的鱼鳃
293
00:25:34,487 --> 00:25:44,664
再将手指插入鱼背上的伤口牢牢抓住鱼
294
00:25:44,865 --> 00:25:49,503
这家伙从河里抓上来就能直接生吃
295
00:26:21,247 --> 00:26:25,618
我或许出了森林但我知道周围仍然有熊
296
00:26:25,752 --> 00:26:28,421
熊会下来这里捕鱼
297
00:26:30,557 --> 00:26:32,459
嘿，瞧瞧这个
298
00:26:32,592 --> 00:26:35,028
所以我在这里必须很小心
299
00:26:35,161 --> 00:26:38,565
你看这里有熊来过的明显痕迹
300
00:26:38,665 --> 00:26:44,404
它的屁股就坐在这里，大啖蛙鱼
301
00:26:44,537 --> 00:26:48,608
真神奇．我们能看到它待过的痕迹
302
00:26:48,708 --> 00:26:53,279
你可以看到鱼腹脂肪鱼卵和内脏全被吃光了
303
00:26:53,413 --> 00:26:55,582
那都是富含脂肪和蛋白质的部位
304
00:26:55,682 --> 00:26:57,784
其他部位则被丢掉
305
00:26:57,884 --> 00:27:00,887
所以在这里一定要很小心
306
00:27:12,916 --> 00:27:15,686
这种植物叫做山岩黄蓍
307
00:27:15,686 --> 00:27:17,421
我把它拔起来
308
00:27:21,959 --> 00:27:24,295
找到根部
309
00:27:24,428 --> 00:27:28,032
这整个都能吃这时节的口感会有点老
310
00:27:28,165 --> 00:27:34,405
最好的吃法是火烤，但也能生吃
311
00:27:34,538 --> 00:27:38,208
有点泥巴，却是很好得食物来源
312
00:27:35,132 --> 00:27:40,337
我需要尽量休息天晓得我还会碰到什么状况
313
00:27:38,342 --> 00:27:41,612
很多人说这是阿拉斯加最宝贵的食物来源
314
00:27:41,745 --> 00:27:44,481
它的根部富含淀粉和碳水化合物
315
00:27:51,279 --> 00:27:56,451
现在是傍晚，洞穴是现成的栖身之所
316
00:28:00,692 --> 00:28:02,728
这个洞很浅一眼就看得出很安全
317
00:28:02,862 --> 00:28:04,864
这是歇脚的好地点
318
00:28:05,997 --> 00:28:09,035
高耸的岩壁表示没有束西能从后方偷偷靠近我
319
00:28:32,959 --> 00:28:34,461
现在我来到海岸
320
00:28:34,944 --> 00:28:38,748
这里食物丰富，尤其是低潮的海滩
321
00:28:42,608 --> 00:28:47,346
这块岩石覆满了淡菜这是很棒的食物来源
322
00:28:47,346 --> 00:28:51,284
我要采很多淡菜待会拿来煮
323
00:28:52,070 --> 00:28:57,642
淡菜是阿拉斯加许多本地部落的主食之一
324
00:28:57,292 --> 00:29:01,430
贝类一定要煮熟才能吃所以我需要火
325
00:29:02,105 --> 00:29:06,209
铁线莲长在树枝上很容易燃烧
326
00:29:06,342 --> 00:29:08,511
但我也需要找到木柴
327
00:29:08,611 --> 00:29:11,981
这就是我要找的枯树
328
00:29:12,115 --> 00:29:15,384
倒在地上的枯树通常覆盖苔葑，十分潮湮
329
00:29:15,518 --> 00:29:18,387
但这个很棒竖立在地上而且干燥
330
00:29:18,521 --> 00:29:20,990
折下去应该会断裂
331
00:29:21,124 --> 00:29:23,526
判断木柴是否适合生火有个好方法
332
00:29:23,626 --> 00:29:27,797
如果听见断裂声就像烧柴火的爆裂声
333
00:29:27,930 --> 00:29:30,933
那通常就是适合生火的木柴
334
00:29:32,235 --> 00:29:37,406
因为没有平底锅 我用2屠海藻盖住淡菜
335
00:29:37,540 --> 00:29:39,709
这个效果就像是清蒸淡菜
336
00:29:39,809 --> 00:29:42,578
煮熟差不多要花10分钟
337
00:29:43,746 --> 00:29:46,349
采集淡菜时要记得敲一敲
338
00:29:46,482 --> 00:29:50,219
如果没有合拢就表示是死的那就别拿
339
00:29:50,353 --> 00:29:53,756
但煮熟后壳应该会打开
340
00:29:53,890 --> 00:29:55,057
哇，真好吃
341
00:30:02,747 --> 00:30:07,252
既然我在海边应该设法向行经的船只打信号
342
00:30:07,352 --> 00:30:12,290
我这里视野很好一眼就看得到海
343
00:30:16,828 --> 00:30:17,529
我要尝试在这里生起烽烟
344
00:30:17,662 --> 00:30:20,231
我只是重新添加柴火
345
00:30:21,433 --> 00:30:30,675
然后再上面摆一堆常绿树叶这样就会有烟。
346
00:30:33,378 --> 00:30:39,718
若是有人经过就很可能会看到烟
347
00:30:41,219 --> 00:30:43,455
务必要裂造白烟
348
00:30:43,555 --> 00:30:47,859
才能和后方树木的深色背景形成对比
349
00:30:51,329 --> 00:30:53,932
但大自然正密谋对我不利
350
00:30:54,065 --> 00:30:57,302
汪意一下．烟升不太上去
351
00:30:57,435 --> 00:31:00,038
烟好像被压下来
352
00:31:00,138 --> 00:31:03,141
显示低气压可能正往这里接近
353
00:31:03,274 --> 00:31:09,481
所从虽然现在天气晴朗晚点可能变得很糟
354
00:31:10,615 --> 00:31:13,620
没有看到船只我得继续走
355
00:31:17,736 --> 00:31:19,337
但路很难走
356
00:31:19,471 --> 00:31:23,775
海岸线不断弯进又弯出形成深邃的海湾
357
00:31:42,436 --> 00:31:46,507
但小径长满野草，建筑物已成废墟
358
00:31:46,640 --> 00:31:49,143
阿拉斯加拥有大起大落的历史
359
00:31:49,276 --> 00:31:53,480
海岸线到处可见废弃的金矿场，罐罐头厂
360
00:31:53,581 --> 00:31:57,184
和我看到的破旧旅舍
361
00:31:57,318 --> 00:32:03,157
我相信这里曾人来人往但如今人去楼空
362
00:32:14,526 --> 00:32:20,599
你看，很肥美那边山上的冰河，太壮观了
363
00:32:23,967 --> 00:32:28,104
看见冰河让我灵光乍现那可能是我的出路
364
00:32:28,205 --> 00:32:31,708
沿岸这些冰河是热门的觏光景点
365
00:32:31,808 --> 00:32:35,979
很可能会有游轮但那看来在几哩之外
366
00:32:43,886 --> 00:32:46,555
这艘船给了我一个机会
367
00:32:56,461 --> 00:33:00,031
我只需要一根浆这支铲子应该能充数
368
00:33:06,667 --> 00:33:10,804
船很旧，海里充满浮冰
369
00:33:11,438 --> 00:33:14,774
我可能会后悔做此决定
370
00:33:25,977 --> 00:33:27,777
我坐上刚发现的旧船
371
00:33:27,977 --> 00:33:30,680
慢慢沿着海岸线划动
372
00:33:34,051 --> 00:33:39,123
步行要花好几天才能绕过无尽的崎岖小湾
373
00:33:39,492 --> 00:33:41,429
旧船通常有风险
374
00:33:41,629 --> 00:33:44,632
却是我目前得最佳选择
375
00:33:50,384 --> 00:33:55,489
曾有一位父亲和青少年子女在冬季风暴中搁浅
376
00:33:55,589 --> 00:33:58,959
他们等待救援长达10天但始终没人出现
377
00:33:59,092 --> 00:34:03,497
于是父观做了艰难的决定留下十几岁的女儿
378
00:34:03,597 --> 00:34:08,769
他和儿子出去求助最后找到老旧木屋
379
00:34:08,902 --> 00:34:10,604
但那里没有人居住
380
00:34:10,737 --> 00:34:14,374
这时暴风来临6天后天气才好转
381
00:34:14,741 --> 00:34:17,944
他以为女儿大概死了
382
00:34:18,078 --> 00:34:22,482
风暴结束后他们找到一艘老旧小艇．设法修复
383
00:34:22,582 --> 00:34:27,287
驾驶小艇回去找女儿她们居然还活着
384
00:34:27,387 --> 00:34:30,657
1天后他们全部獾救
385
00:34:37,406 --> 00:34:40,476
我愈往前划，浮冰愈多
386
00:34:42,278 --> 00:34:45,047
不久我就被浮冰团团包围
387
00:34:46,182 --> 00:34:48,350
浮冰看似壮观
388
00:34:48,451 --> 00:34:51,021
但就连大船也难逃浮冰的严重损伤
389
00:34:51,254 --> 00:34:56,457
1989年 一艘载着33人的探险船
390
00:34:56,654 --> 00:35:01,357
就是像这样在阿拉斯加山脉中
391
00:34:52,154 --> 00:34:55,357
一处冰块覆盖的河面上滑行
392
00:35:09,154 --> 00:35:11,757
这地方真妙
393
00:35:12,054 --> 00:35:14,454
但我要离开这里
394
00:35:14,654 --> 00:35:16,357
身体不由地发出
395
00:35:16,454 --> 00:35:19,957
大自然真壮观的感叹
396
00:35:20,154 --> 00:35:23,057
冰块就在你周围
397
00:35:23,154 --> 00:35:28,157
各个大如洪钟
398
00:35:28,554 --> 00:35:31,957
可能你很清楚 有些冰块
399
00:35:32,154 --> 00:35:34,357
有五千多年的历史
400
00:35:34,554 --> 00:35:37,957
妙不可言的阿拉斯加
401
00:35:40,154 --> 00:35:42,357
那些冰块
402
00:35:42,554 --> 00:35:44,157
90%即将融化
403
00:35:44,554 --> 00:35:47,957
冰块遇水融化的更快
404
00:35:48,258 --> 00:35:53,162
最后冰山头重脚轻通常会剧烈倾覆
405
00:35:59,736 --> 00:36:04,341
我有点但心，浮冰开始围拢过来
406
00:36:04,441 --> 00:36:07,811
我搞不清方向不知道自己身在何处
407
00:36:07,945 --> 00:36:11,582
这些冰块随波逐流
408
00:36:11,682 --> 00:36:13,750
前一分钟还看到的缱隙
409
00:36:13,851 --> 00:36:16,820
可能突然在你面前密合
410
00:36:18,956 --> 00:36:22,559
真的很难穿越造此冰块就像岩石
411
00:36:25,129 --> 00:36:28,265
看得出冰快的杀伤力有多大
412
00:36:28,398 --> 00:36:34,571
不知道小艇撑不撑得住
413
00:36:34,671 --> 00:36:38,408
小艇也进水了
414
00:36:42,408 --> 00:36:46,279
看得到那一小块陆地吗就是那堆碎石，我要去那里
415
00:36:46,412 --> 00:36:51,616
撤影小组穿着防护衣物．我可没有
416
00:36:57,316 --> 00:36:58,953
刚开始水流是涓涓细流很快就一涌而入
417
00:36:59,286 --> 00:37:02,890
看来我只能下水游泳了
418
00:37:02,929 --> 00:37:03,763
小艇快沉了
419
00:37:03,897 --> 00:37:08,768
但我得先脱掉衣物否则我会被拖下水
420
00:37:08,868 --> 00:37:11,104
船快沉了
421
00:37:11,237 --> 00:37:13,673
先别沉啊，先别沉
422
00:37:15,481 --> 00:37:18,951
现在只靠一点浮力浮在水上
423
00:37:28,681 --> 00:37:31,484
落水的冲击令我大口喘气
424
00:37:31,617 --> 00:37:37,857
危险在于吸入大口空气和水是导致溺毙的原因
425
00:37:47,337 --> 00:37:51,441
我的心跳急剧加速开始换气速度
426
00:37:51,541 --> 00:37:54,845
有些人可能因此心脏病发
427
00:38:07,457 --> 00:38:07,858
我要脱掉棉衫
428
00:38:10,393 --> 00:38:14,965
棉布会吸走体热湮掉时可会要人命
429
00:38:15,098 --> 00:38:19,503
你如果穿着纯棉T恤和牛仔裤在这种情况下泡水湿透
430
00:38:19,669 --> 00:38:21,371
你必须盎快脱掉
431
00:38:21,505 --> 00:38:23,773
裸体还可以活久点
432
00:38:26,042 --> 00:38:26,143
这些全是冰河水
433
00:38:26,576 --> 00:38:30,647
而海水冰点远低于一般的水
434
00:38:30,747 --> 00:38:34,184
所以这水比冰块还冷
435
00:38:36,720 --> 00:38:38,955
我的手指和脚趾都麻了
436
00:38:39,089 --> 00:38:41,892
我得让血液恢复流动
437
00:38:50,433 --> 00:38:52,736
我的夹克放在背包里所以遗是干的
438
00:38:52,869 --> 00:38:55,539
这能救我一命
439
00:39:03,747 --> 00:39:07,284
你看．是外海
440
00:39:07,817 --> 00:39:11,821
我能看到海岸线上下方数里远
441
00:39:11,954 --> 00:39:18,961
我现在要想想封策设法在这些石头上取暖
442
00:39:19,062 --> 00:39:25,468
在原地待到我恢复干爽暖和
443
00:39:27,337 --> 00:39:30,473
我认为这是完美的等待地点
444
00:39:34,944 --> 00:39:37,847
不难看出人们为何想到此一游
445
00:39:38,949 --> 00:39:41,384
好美
446
00:39:50,181 --> 00:39:53,784
我在海滩上继续走看能找到什麽
447
00:39:53,918 --> 00:39:58,122
如果我得在此再过一夜我会需要食物和栖身之所
448
00:40:09,033 --> 00:40:13,838
嘿，快看，喂
449
00:40:13,838 --> 00:40:15,774
我无法点燃烽烟
450
00:40:15,773 --> 00:40:20,778
只能依靠肢体动作和一点运气设法引起注意
451
00:40:22,777 --> 00:40:24,111
他们看到我了
452
00:40:24,110 --> 00:40:26,546
这是一趟惊奇之旅
453
00:40:26,679 --> 00:40:30,583
从险峻山峰到这些冰封海域
454
00:40:30,716 --> 00:40:34,787
在阿拉斯加我们能够亲近大自然
455
00:40:34,921 --> 00:40:38,658
我认为那才是阿拉斯加真正的魅力
456
00:40:40,967 --> 00:40:43,975
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