All language subtitles for Ottoman.Empire.by.Train.with.Alice.Roberts.S01E01.1080p.HDTV.H264-DARKFLiX[EZTVx.to]_Subtitles02.ENG

Turkey's golden coastline
stretches 5,000 miles,

Turkey's golden coastline
stretches 5,000 miles,

Turkey's golden coastline
stretches 5,000 miles,

attracting 40 million tourists
every year.

attracting 40 million tourists
every year.

attracting 40 million tourists
every year.

But a few miles inland is
a whole different world...

But a few miles inland is
a whole different world...

But a few miles inland is
a whole different world...

..one that is intoxicating,

..one that is intoxicating,

mysterious

and steeped in history.

and steeped in history.

This is such an incredible building.

This is such an incredible building.

It was the largest church
in the world

It was the largest church
in the world

for 1,000 years.

The land where one of
the most formidable empires,

The land where one of
the most formidable empires,

lasting six centuries and spanning
continents, was founded.

lasting six centuries and spanning
continents, was founded.

lasting six centuries and spanning
continents, was founded.

Tesekkur ederim.

I'm Alice Roberts and
I'm travelling hundreds of miles

I'm Alice Roberts and
I'm travelling hundreds of miles

by train through Turkey
and Eastern Europe.

by train through Turkey
and Eastern Europe.

Oh, wow, look at that.

Oh, wow, look at that.

Lovely!

I want to discover
the fascinating story...

I want to discover
the fascinating story...

Go.

..of the Ottoman Empire.

..of the Ottoman Empire.

LAUGHTER
Oh, no!

LAUGHTER
Oh, no!

This is the mausoleum
of Osman himself,

This is the mausoleum
of Osman himself,

the sultan who started
the Ottoman dynasty.

the sultan who started
the Ottoman dynasty.

Through its distinctive
architecture...

Through its distinctive
architecture...

Beautiful courtyard.

..it's historic leaders...

The early Ottoman sultans had their
eye on this prize, Constantinople.

The early Ottoman sultans had their
eye on this prize, Constantinople.

The early Ottoman sultans had their
eye on this prize, Constantinople.

..and remnants of
its turbulent past.

..and remnants of
its turbulent past.

What a horrific monument.

I begin the first leg of my journey
in south-east Turkey, where I
explore

I begin the first leg of my journey
in south-east Turkey, where I
explore

I begin the first leg of my journey
in south-east Turkey, where I
explore

the importance of Islam
to the Ottoman Empire

the importance of Islam
to the Ottoman Empire

and scale the dizzy heights
of a dynastic legacy.

and scale the dizzy heights
of a dynastic legacy.

Oh, wow, look at that view!

Oh, wow, look at that view!

Wow. We're right over Adana,

Wow. We're right over Adana,

Wow. We're right over Adana,

which is a huge city.

which is a huge city.

I discover more about
the trade routes that helped

I discover more about
the trade routes that helped

the Ottomans hold on
to their wealth and power...

the Ottomans hold on
to their wealth and power...

A very strategic and very important
point for the silk route...

A very strategic and very important
point for the silk route...

A very strategic and very important
point for the silk route...

It's on the silk roads.Yeah.
It's on that important...

It's on the silk roads.Yeah.
It's on that important...

And it still is.

And it still is.

..and learn the sacred meaning
behind the mesmerising dance

..and learn the sacred meaning
behind the mesmerising dance

of the whirling dervishes.

of the whirling dervishes.

I haven't seen the
whirling dervishes before.

I haven't seen the
whirling dervishes before.

Oh, OK. This is your first time?

It is.

It's totally magical. Yeah.

It's totally magical. Yeah.

It is... It's like a kind of
meditation.

It is... It's like a kind of
meditation.

What I've always found
fascinating about Turkey

What I've always found
fascinating about Turkey

is its rich mix of cultures,
which isn't surprising

is its rich mix of cultures,
which isn't surprising

is its rich mix of cultures,
which isn't surprising

given its colourful history.

In the 13th century this area
was trapped in a power struggle

In the 13th century this area
was trapped in a power struggle

In the 13th century this area
was trapped in a power struggle

between the Byzantine Empire
to the west

between the Byzantine Empire
to the west

and Mongol forces to
the north and the east.

and Mongol forces to
the north and the east.

Over time, Mongol invasions had led
to the displacement of

Over time, Mongol invasions had led
to the displacement of

Over time, Mongol invasions had led
to the displacement of

Turkish tribes from Central Asia.

Turkish tribes from Central Asia.

They'd been pushed
further and further west,

They'd been pushed
further and further west,

and in the late 13th century
a Turkish warlord came to power,

and in the late 13th century
a Turkish warlord came to power,

and in the late 13th century
a Turkish warlord came to power,

seizing new territory from
the Byzantine Empire.

seizing new territory from
the Byzantine Empire.

His name was Osman.

He was the founder of
the Ottoman dynasty.

He was the founder of
the Ottoman dynasty.

His descendants would go on
to create one of

His descendants would go on
to create one of

the largest empires
the world has ever seen,

the largest empires
the world has ever seen,

and it lasted for more than
six centuries.

and it lasted for more than
six centuries.

I want to find out more about
this empire, how it emerged

I want to find out more about
this empire, how it emerged

I want to find out more about
this empire, how it emerged

and grew, its culture
and its legacy.

and grew, its culture
and its legacy.

I'm exploring the Ottoman Empire
by train.

I'm exploring the Ottoman Empire
by train.

My journey starts in Adana,

My journey starts in Adana,

the gateway into Turkey
and Europe from Asia.

the gateway into Turkey
and Europe from Asia.

Heading west, I cover 800 miles
towards Istanbul.

Heading west, I cover 800 miles
towards Istanbul.

Then I follow the Ottoman trail
up into the Balkans

Then I follow the Ottoman trail
up into the Balkans

and then Hungary,
ending at Budapest,

and then Hungary,
ending at Budapest,

at the westernmost tip
of the empire.

at the westernmost tip
of the empire.

The Ottoman Empire started near
the city of Bursa in 1299.

The Ottoman Empire started near
the city of Bursa in 1299.

The Ottoman Empire started near
the city of Bursa in 1299.

Over 200 years it consumed
Greece, Eastern Europe,

Over 200 years it consumed
Greece, Eastern Europe,

Over 200 years it consumed
Greece, Eastern Europe,

North Africa and western Asia,

North Africa and western Asia,

reaching its peak in
the 16th century,

reaching its peak in
the 16th century,

covering an area that now
includes 70 countries.

covering an area that now
includes 70 countries.

covering an area that now
includes 70 countries.

By the end of the First World War,

By the end of the First World War,

it had shrunk dramatically.

This is when the Ottoman Empire
ended and Turkey became a republic.

This is when the Ottoman Empire
ended and Turkey became a republic.

This is when the Ottoman Empire
ended and Turkey became a republic.

So this lovely lady hopped off
at the last platform

So this lovely lady hopped off
at the last platform

to fill her kettle up, and she's now
plugged her kettle in

to fill her kettle up, and she's now
plugged her kettle in

and she's making coffee
and she's offered me some.

and she's making coffee
and she's offered me some.

I've never seen anyone boil
a kettle on a train before.

I've never seen anyone boil
a kettle on a train before.

I've never seen anyone boil
a kettle on a train before.

Is it ready?

Ah!

Thank you.

So kind! Thank you.

That's enough, that's enough.

Thank you. Tesekkur.

Thank you. Tesekkur.

Tesekkur ederim.You are welcome.

Thank you.

That's so kind of you. Thank you.

That's so kind of you. Thank you.

Making coffee on a train!

Who else wants some coffee?

This lady's going to have
some coffee.

This lady's going to have
some coffee.

It's my first time in Adana,

It's my first time in Adana,

one of the largest cities
in Turkey.

one of the largest cities
in Turkey.

And you can see the Ottoman
influence right away in

And you can see the Ottoman
influence right away in

the city's striking railway station.

the city's striking railway station.

It was built in the early 1900s
in the last decade of the empire,

It was built in the early 1900s
in the last decade of the empire,

It was built in the early 1900s
in the last decade of the empire,

embracing the classical 16th century
Ottoman architectural design

embracing the classical 16th century
Ottoman architectural design

embracing the classical 16th century
Ottoman architectural design

with its Islamic pointed horseshoe
windows and two-colour stonework.

with its Islamic pointed horseshoe
windows and two-colour stonework.

with its Islamic pointed horseshoe
windows and two-colour stonework.

Adana - this is a name
which has been used

for at least 4,000 years.

for at least 4,000 years.

It's there on ancient
Hittite tablets.

It's there on ancient
Hittite tablets.

It's mentioned in the Bible.

It's mentioned in
the Epic of Gilgamesh.

It's mentioned in Homer's Iliad.

It's mentioned in Homer's Iliad.

And today it's a massive city,
home to nearly two million people.

And today it's a massive city,
home to nearly two million people.

DRUMMING AND SINGING

DRUMMING AND SINGING

Adana is just 22 miles
from the coast,

Adana is just 22 miles
from the coast,

but the city's importance to
the Ottoman Empire lay in

but the city's importance to
the Ottoman Empire lay in

its position on one of the main
trade routes between

its position on one of the main
trade routes between

Asia and Europe.

With its crucial location,

With its crucial location,

Adana became one of the empire's
most prosperous cities.

Adana became one of the empire's
most prosperous cities.

Today it's a sprawling mix
of old and new.

Today it's a sprawling mix
of old and new.

Today it's a sprawling mix
of old and new.

But I'm here to explore
the historic Ottoman old town.

But I'm here to explore
the historic Ottoman old town.

But I'm here to explore
the historic Ottoman old town.

My first port of call is hidden
behind this impressive gate,

My first port of call is hidden
behind this impressive gate,

My first port of call is hidden
behind this impressive gate,

Adana's oldest mosque.

Adana's oldest mosque.

This is a typical Ottoman
religious complex,

This is a typical Ottoman
religious complex,

including a madrasah -
or Islamic School -

including a madrasah -
or Islamic School -

consisting of a classroom
and cells or small bedrooms

consisting of a classroom
and cells or small bedrooms

for students, surrounding
a large courtyard.

for students, surrounding
a large courtyard.

These learning centres
of learning were banned when

These learning centres
of learning were banned when

Turkey became a republic,
but were hugely important to

Turkey became a republic,
but were hugely important to

the empire's religious
way of life.

the empire's religious
way of life.

You come off the busy streets
of Adana into this space

You come off the busy streets
of Adana into this space

You come off the busy streets
of Adana into this space

and you're straight back
into the Middle Ages.

and you're straight back
into the Middle Ages.

This is the Yag Camii,
the Yag Mosque.

This is the Yag Camii,
the Yag Mosque.

But in fact its history goes back
much earlier.

But in fact its history goes back
much earlier.

But in fact its history goes back
much earlier.

It was originally built as
a church when Adana was part of

It was originally built as
a church when Adana was part of

It was originally built as
a church when Adana was part of

the Armenian Kingdom of Cilicia,

the Armenian Kingdom of Cilicia,

and that was from the 11th to
the mid-14th centuries.

and that was from the 11th to
the mid-14th centuries.

and that was from the 11th to
the mid-14th centuries.

The church is somewhere there,
underneath this later architecture.

The church is somewhere there,
underneath this later architecture.

The church is somewhere there,
underneath this later architecture.

It has been added to and converted
into a mosque with this courtyard,

It has been added to and converted
into a mosque with this courtyard,

It has been added to and converted
into a mosque with this courtyard,

and actually "yag" means "oil"
in Turkish, so it's become known

and actually "yag" means "oil"
in Turkish, so it's become known

as the Oil Mosque, and then there's
an idea that people were selling

as the Oil Mosque, and then there's
an idea that people were selling

olive oil maybe just outside it.

So we've got, encapsulated in
this architecture here

So we've got, encapsulated in
this architecture here

but also in the name of the place,

but also in the name of the place,

a bit of the medieval
history of Adana.

a bit of the medieval
history of Adana.

From the brash sunlight of
the courtyard,

From the brash sunlight of
the courtyard,

it's a sharp contrast stepping
into the cool contemplative

it's a sharp contrast stepping
into the cool contemplative

prayer room...

..where, in typical Ottoman style,
there's a large space

..where, in typical Ottoman style,
there's a large space

for praying split
into safs, or rows,

for praying split
into safs, or rows,

of arcaded porticos
covered by small domes.

of arcaded porticos
covered by small domes.

The materials are sandstone and
limestone from nearby quarries,

The materials are sandstone and
limestone from nearby quarries,

The materials are sandstone and
limestone from nearby quarries,

and the layout of the room is
designed so that worshippers sit in

and the layout of the room is
designed so that worshippers sit in

a row between the columns.

So this is the oldest part
of this building.

So this is the oldest part
of this building.

This is the original
medieval church,

This is the original
medieval church,

and you can see details
on the pilasters.

and you can see details
on the pilasters.

It looks like they've been
hacked away a bit,

It looks like they've been
hacked away a bit,

but you can still see some of that.

What you can't see is any of
the paintings, which must have

What you can't see is any of
the paintings, which must have

decorated the walls at
the point it was being used

decorated the walls at
the point it was being used

for Christian worship.

for Christian worship.

At that time the focus of worship
would've been in the east -

At that time the focus of worship
would've been in the east -

that's where the altar
would have been -

that's where the altar
would have been -

in the apse, in the curved end
of the church.

in the apse, in the curved end
of the church.

Then, when it becomes transformed
into a mosque, this western end

Then, when it becomes transformed
into a mosque, this western end

Then, when it becomes transformed
into a mosque, this western end

of the building is taken down
and the mosque is built,

of the building is taken down
and the mosque is built,

of the building is taken down
and the mosque is built,

reusing lots of stone.

You can see all of those pillars
are different.

You can see all of those pillars
are different.

Some of them are marble,
some of them are granite.

They're all different shapes
and sizes.

They're all different shapes
and sizes.

And now the focus of worship
has also changed.

And now the focus of worship
has also changed.

It was in the east
when it was Christian,

It was in the east
when it was Christian,

and now it's in the south

and now it's in the south

because Muslims have to pray
facing Mecca.

because Muslims have to pray
facing Mecca.

It's intriguing trying to imagine
the city of Adana at

It's intriguing trying to imagine
the city of Adana at

the height of the Ottoman Empire,

the height of the Ottoman Empire,

encircled by fortified stone walls,
and within it -

encircled by fortified stone walls,
and within it -

just like today -
would be the bazaar,

just like today -
would be the bazaar,

a market area, buzzing with traders,
entertainers and food stalls

a market area, buzzing with traders,
entertainers and food stalls

a market area, buzzing with traders,
entertainers and food stalls

where people would gather
to put the world to rights.

where people would gather
to put the world to rights.

It's where I'm meeting Beliz Sahin,

It's where I'm meeting Beliz Sahin,

a researcher at the local
university, to get a feel for

a researcher at the local
university, to get a feel for

what life in the city would've been
like under Ottoman rule.

what life in the city would've been
like under Ottoman rule.

Hi! Hello!

Hi! Hello!

Oh, it's lovely to meet you.
Yeah, for me too. Thank you.

Oh, it's lovely to meet you.
Yeah, for me too. Thank you.

In the historic bazaar of Adana.
Yes, we are in the historic core

In the historic bazaar of Adana.
Yes, we are in the historic core

of Adana - it's the Grand Bazaar.

of Adana - it's the Grand Bazaar.

So this is the heart of the city,

and we're coming out now
onto this street...Actually,

and we're coming out now
onto this street...Actually,

we are in the complex of
Ramadanid Emirate.

we are in the complex of
Ramadanid Emirate.

They built this complex
in the 16th century. Yeah.

They built this complex
in the 16th century. Yeah.

They will all have different
a building type.

They will all have different
a building type.

This is the baths, this is
the bazaar,

This is the baths, this is
the bazaar,

and when we go this way
we'll see the Grand Mosque,

and when we go this way
we'll see the Grand Mosque,

and when we go this way
we'll see the Grand Mosque,

we'll see the madrasah there.

These are all the parts of a classic
complex built in Ottoman Empire.

These are all the parts of a classic
complex built in Ottoman Empire.

These are all the parts of a classic
complex built in Ottoman Empire.

These are all the parts of a classic
complex built in Ottoman Empire.

So we've got some elements
that go back centuries

and then we've got this...Yes.
..which is the famous clock tower

and then we've got this...Yes.
..which is the famous clock tower

which is a bit later.
Yeah, it's later.

which is a bit later.
Yeah, it's later.

It's at the end of the 19th century.

It's at the end of the 19th century.

It's built... They started building
in 1881 and ended in 1882.

It's built... They started building
in 1881 and ended in 1882.

It's built... They started building
in 1881 and ended in 1882.

It was built in the time of
Abdul Hamid II,

It was built in the time of
Abdul Hamid II,

and it is built for the purpose
of the public to see

and it is built for the purpose
of the public to see

what time it is, for work and
prayer times... Oh, OK.

what time it is, for work and
prayer times... Oh, OK.

..because the public didn't have
a watch, so they see the...time.

..because the public didn't have
a watch, so they see the...time.

..because the public didn't have
a watch, so they see the...time.

So it's to make sure people
get to work on time

So it's to make sure people
get to work on time

and also make sure they go to the
mosque at the right time as well.

and also make sure they go to the
mosque at the right time as well.

Yes. It's important for them. Yeah.

Yes. It's important for them. Yeah.

The clock tower might be
a recent addition,

The clock tower might be
a recent addition,

but the layout of important
buildings in the centre of Adana

but the layout of important
buildings in the centre of Adana

mirrors that of many other cities
built by the Ottomans,

mirrors that of many other cities
built by the Ottomans,

which included a Turkish bath,
a bazaar, and a Grand Mosque.

which included a Turkish bath,
a bazaar, and a Grand Mosque.

which included a Turkish bath,
a bazaar, and a Grand Mosque.

I think Turkey is such a fascinating
place because it sits here

I think Turkey is such a fascinating
place because it sits here

with Europe if we face west,
Asia to the east,

with Europe if we face west,
Asia to the east,

with Europe if we face west,
Asia to the east,

the Middle East and Africa
to the south.Mm-hm.

the Middle East and Africa
to the south.Mm-hm.

And you've got all these
different cultures -

And you've got all these
different cultures -

it really is at a crossroads.

And Adana in particular seems
to be a bit of a frontier town.

And Adana in particular seems
to be a bit of a frontier town.

Yes, yes. As its location,
it's like a gate from East to West.

Yes, yes. As its location,
it's like a gate from East to West.

Yes, yes. As its location,
it's like a gate from East to West.

So we can see the interaction
with so many nations,

So we can see the interaction
with so many nations,

so many cultures, and
they're living here. Yeah.

so many cultures, and
they're living here. Yeah.

So when you look at the city,
it is very easy to see

So when you look at the city,
it is very easy to see

So when you look at the city,
it is very easy to see

their effects on buildings.

their effects on buildings.

We know that there were
many churches in the past.

We know that there were
many churches in the past.

There was an Eastern Orthodox
church, a Catholic church,

There was an Eastern Orthodox
church, a Catholic church,

a Protestant church,
Gregorian church.

a Protestant church,
Gregorian church.

But in time, when the non-Muslim
community started to leave the city,

But in time, when the non-Muslim
community started to leave the city,

But in time, when the non-Muslim
community started to leave the city,

these churches turned back
to cultural centres,

these churches turned back
to cultural centres,

museums, or mosques sometimes. Yeah.

museums, or mosques sometimes. Yeah.

So when does Adana become part of
the expanding Ottoman Empire?

So when does Adana become part of
the expanding Ottoman Empire?

So when does Adana become part of
the expanding Ottoman Empire?

We can say that in the 16th century
we see Ottoman Empire here.

We can say that in the 16th century
we see Ottoman Empire here.

And in the 17th, 18th centuries
it still goes on,

And in the 17th, 18th centuries
it still goes on,

and we see the reflections of
the empire in different places.

and we see the reflections of
the empire in different places.

Yeah. I mean, it's fantastic
going to see the oldest mosque.

Yeah. I mean, it's fantastic
going to see the oldest mosque.

I've been to see the Yag Camii.
Yes, Yag Mosque. The old mosque,

I've been to see the Yag Camii.
Yes, Yag Mosque. The old mosque,

the Yag Mosque.Yag Camii, yeah.

And to see that it was originally
a basilica with that apse

And to see that it was originally
a basilica with that apse

at the end...Yeah. ..with the
mosque then added a bit later on,

at the end...Yeah. ..with the
mosque then added a bit later on,

so you've kind of got that history
written into the stone,

so you've kind of got that history
written into the stone,

written in the architecture.Yes.

And this is your passion, looking
for history in architecture.

And this is your passion, looking
for history in architecture.

Yes, because in every detail
you can find a story,

Yes, because in every detail
you can find a story,

and when you find the story you feel
more connected to the city.

and when you find the story you feel
more connected to the city.

and when you find the story you feel
more connected to the city.

You know the history, you know
where it is coming from,

You know the history, you know
where it is coming from,

and maybe you can have an
assumption, like, where it will go,

and maybe you can have an
assumption, like, where it will go,

you can have an idea. Yeah.
And I think it is important to have.

you can have an idea. Yeah.
And I think it is important to have.

you can have an idea. Yeah.
And I think it is important to have.

With its characteristic architecture
and cross-cultural influences,

With its characteristic architecture
and cross-cultural influences,

With its characteristic architecture
and cross-cultural influences,

Adana has been the perfect
introduction to my journey

Adana has been the perfect
introduction to my journey

discovering the Ottoman Empire.

discovering the Ottoman Empire.

I'm in the historic city of Adana
in central-southern Turkey,

I'm in the historic city of Adana
in central-southern Turkey,

I'm in the historic city of Adana
in central-southern Turkey,

discovering the long-held secrets
of the Ottoman Empire.

discovering the long-held secrets
of the Ottoman Empire.

discovering the long-held secrets
of the Ottoman Empire.

Among them are some
world-famous delicacies,

Among them are some
world-famous delicacies,

including a particular
favourite of mine.

including a particular
favourite of mine.

Merhaba. Merhaba.

Merhaba. Merhaba.

Tahini!

Yes. You're making tahini here?

Original. So you've got a big
vat of sesame seeds.Yes.

Original. So you've got a big
vat of sesame seeds.Yes.

It's a simple recipe.

It's a simple recipe.

The sesame seeds are ground into
a liquid to produce the condiment.

The sesame seeds are ground into
a liquid to produce the condiment.

The sesame seeds are ground into
a liquid to produce the condiment.

Do you want this?

Oh, yes, please.

Fresh tahini.

Amazing.

Tesekkur.

At home I've used it to make humous
and salad dressings,

At home I've used it to make humous
and salad dressings,

but I've never tasted it
quite this fresh.

but I've never tasted it
quite this fresh.

Gosh, that's so good.
That's so delicious.

Gosh, that's so good.
That's so delicious.

Fresh out of the mill, amazing.

And you make Turkish Delight here?

Yes, welcome. Yeah?

Yes, welcome. Yeah?

So all of these different ones...

So all of these different ones...

Rose petals, pistachios.

Rose petals, pistachios.

Yeah. That's walnut.

Lovely.Chocolate, kiraz...

Lovely.Chocolate, kiraz...

So many different varieties.

So many different varieties.

It's lovely.

It's lovely.

The delicacy is believed to
have been invented in

The delicacy is believed to
have been invented in

Ottoman kitchens over 500 years ago,

Ottoman kitchens over 500 years ago,

when the ruling Sultan,
Abdul Hamid I,

when the ruling Sultan,
Abdul Hamid I,

was struggling to keep
his many wives happy.

was struggling to keep
his many wives happy.

He summoned his chefs to come up
with an irresistible sweet

He summoned his chefs to come up
with an irresistible sweet

to win their hearts, and
they created Turkish Delight.

to win their hearts, and
they created Turkish Delight.

to win their hearts, and
they created Turkish Delight.

And this is where you make it?

Oh, look at that!

Can I come in?

Yeah?
SHE GASPS

LAUGHTER

Turkish Delight?

Yeah.

Oh, wow. Look at that.

Oh, wow. Look at that.

Almonds, hazelnuts, pistachios.

Almonds, hazelnuts, pistachios.

Bomba, bomba...

Bomba, bomba...

This sweet dessert is simply
a mix of sugar syrup

This sweet dessert is simply
a mix of sugar syrup

and cornflower that's cooked
to create a sticky jelly,

and cornflower that's cooked
to create a sticky jelly,

and it can be left plain or have
additions like pomegranate,

and it can be left plain or have
additions like pomegranate,

rose petals or nuts.

A great big mass of sticky
Turkish Delight that's absolutely

A great big mass of sticky
Turkish Delight that's absolutely

full of almonds, hazelnuts,
pistachios.

full of almonds, hazelnuts,
pistachios.

This is just fantastic.

I've wandered into this shop,
and it's extraordinary -

I've wandered into this shop,
and it's extraordinary -

look at that huge vat.

look at that huge vat.

It's coming. It's coming!

It's coming. It's coming!

Quick!
SHE LAUGHS

Quick!
SHE LAUGHS

Two massive trays
of Turkish Delight.

Two massive trays
of Turkish Delight.

Thank you so much. Tesekkur ederim!

Thank you so much. Tesekkur ederim!

Tesekkur ederim.

Well, that's been
a very welcome start

Well, that's been
a very welcome start

to my second day in Adana.

to my second day in Adana.

But I'm keen to get back
to uncovering the Ottomans'

But I'm keen to get back
to uncovering the Ottomans'

architectural legacy in the city.

architectural legacy in the city.

There's one place I want to visit
that exemplifies this,

There's one place I want to visit
that exemplifies this,

and one you can't fail to notice -

and one you can't fail to notice -

the majestic Sabanci Central Mosque.

the majestic Sabanci Central Mosque.

Set on the banks of
the Seyhan River,

Set on the banks of
the Seyhan River,

you can see it from almost
anywhere in the city,

you can see it from almost
anywhere in the city,

with its six minarets climbing
into the sky.

with its six minarets climbing
into the sky.

with its six minarets climbing
into the sky.

It's designed in the style of
the famous Ottoman architect Sinan,

It's designed in the style of
the famous Ottoman architect Sinan,

It's designed in the style of
the famous Ottoman architect Sinan,

and is now one of Adana's
most iconic attractions.

and is now one of Adana's
most iconic attractions.

Well, this is enormous.

Well, this is enormous.

What a beautiful mosque.

It's quite new - it's only about
25 years old.

It's quite new - it's only about
25 years old.

But it's definitely got that
kind of Ottoman flavour to it.

But it's definitely got that
kind of Ottoman flavour to it.

The Ottomans were followers
of Islam,

The Ottomans were followers
of Islam,

a religious heritage that is
even stronger today

a religious heritage that is
even stronger today

with almost 99% of the Turkish
population being Muslims.

with almost 99% of the Turkish
population being Muslims.

with almost 99% of the Turkish
population being Muslims.

There has been renewed investment
in religious institutions,

There has been renewed investment
in religious institutions,

and this Grand Mosque was
opened in 1998,

and this Grand Mosque was
opened in 1998,

after a ten-year build
beset with problems.

after a ten-year build
beset with problems.

Its foundations sit
on the ancient riverbed.

Its foundations sit
on the ancient riverbed.

But it was well worth the wait

as it's now the second largest
mosque in Turkey

as it's now the second largest
mosque in Turkey

and can fit an incredible
28,500 worshippers.

and can fit an incredible
28,500 worshippers.

and can fit an incredible
28,500 worshippers.

The main dome is huge,
with a diameter of 32 metres

The main dome is huge,
with a diameter of 32 metres

The main dome is huge,
with a diameter of 32 metres

at a height of 54 metres from
floor to ceiling.

at a height of 54 metres from
floor to ceiling.

The measurements used in
the mosque's construction reflect

The measurements used in
the mosque's construction reflect

important numbers in Islamic belief,

important numbers in Islamic belief,

with its six minarets specifically
built to the height of 99 metres,

with its six minarets specifically
built to the height of 99 metres,

with its six minarets specifically
built to the height of 99 metres,

reflecting the 99 names of Allah.

reflecting the 99 names of Allah.

And I'm taking my life into my hands
to scale one of them.

And I'm taking my life into my hands
to scale one of them.

Well, this is incredibly narrow.

Got to take the steps.

Got to take the steps.

Traditionally the Imam would climb
all these steps to

Traditionally the Imam would climb
all these steps to

a platform where he would perform
the call to prayer,

a platform where he would perform
the call to prayer,

that would echo across the city.

Getting my steps in today.

Getting my steps in today.

Oh, now it's gone really dark.

I wish I'd counted these steps!

I wish I'd counted these steps!

Oh, hang on a bit of light
a lot of light.

Oh, hang on a bit of light
a lot of light.

OK.

OK. Oh, wow, look at that view.
That's amazing,

OK. Oh, wow, look at that view.
That's amazing,

OK. Oh, wow, look at that view.
That's amazing,

OK. Oh, wow, look at that view.
That's amazing,

what a beautiful bridge.
Well, the steps are worth it.

what a beautiful bridge.
Well, the steps are worth it.

what a beautiful bridge.
Well, the steps are worth it.

Wow, right over Adana,

Wow, right over Adana,

Wow, right over Adana,

which is a huge city,

which is a huge city,

And this beautiful new mosque,

I've been inside looking up at
that dome,

I've been inside looking up at
that dome,

it's quite extraordinary
to be looking down on it

it's quite extraordinary
to be looking down on it

and I'm up one of its six minarets,
they're each 99 metres high.

and I'm up one of its six minarets,
they're each 99 metres high.

and I'm up one of its six minarets,
they're each 99 metres high.

and I'm up one of its six minarets,
they're each 99 metres high.

It's fine looking out,

It's fine looking out,

but it's a little bit nerve-racking
looking down. Oh!

but it's a little bit nerve-racking
looking down. Oh!

but it's a little bit nerve-racking
looking down. Oh!

Now the imams don't walk up all
those stairs

Now the imams don't walk up all
those stairs

to do their call to prayer any
more,

to do their call to prayer any
more,

they stay down the bottom

and it comes out through these loud
speakers - it's pretty sensible.

and it comes out through these loud
speakers - it's pretty sensible.

Oh, what a view, oh,

Oh, what a view, oh,

there was a lift here all along.

A broken elevator.

Hmm, even if it was working,

Hmm, even if it was working,

I think it was probably safer
to use my legs,

I think it was probably safer
to use my legs,

I wouldn't fancy my chances getting
stuck halfway up

I wouldn't fancy my chances getting
stuck halfway up

a minaret.

There are many ancient sites in this
city that date to

There are many ancient sites in this
city that date to

the time of the Ottomans,

but the might of
the Empire lay on the foundations of

but the might of
the Empire lay on the foundations of

an earlier superpower.

an earlier superpower.

This ancient stone bridge was first
built by

This ancient stone bridge was first
built by

the Romans, ordered by
the Emperor Hadrian, no less.

the Romans, ordered by
the Emperor Hadrian, no less.

the Romans, ordered by
the Emperor Hadrian, no less.

For centuries,

it was the only way
to get across the Seyhan River,

it was the only way
to get across the Seyhan River,

without getting your feet wet.

As a strategic crossing point,

this old bridge was
of huge importance to the Ottomans.

this old bridge was
of huge importance to the Ottomans.

To tell me how the Turks capitalised
on it,

To tell me how the Turks capitalised
on it,

I've met up with Professor
Duygu Saban.

I've met up with Professor
Duygu Saban.

We're getting a fantastic view of
the bridge here,

We're getting a fantastic view of
the bridge here,

I mean, some of that stone work
must be original?

I mean, some of that stone work
must be original?

Presumably it's been redeveloped
and renovated over time,

Presumably it's been redeveloped
and renovated over time,

but some of that must be Roman.

Most of them,
at least 80% is Roman.

Most of them,
at least 80% is Roman.

The newly constructed ones is
the upper parts.

The newly constructed ones is
the upper parts.

The newly constructed ones is
the upper parts.

Just this paler stone?

Yeah, the paler one.
Along the parapet. Yeah.

Yeah, the paler one.
Along the parapet. Yeah.

In history documents we couldn't

find records of it being demolished
by the floods or

find records of it being demolished
by the floods or

find records of it being demolished
by the floods or

by earthquakes or anything
like that.

by earthquakes or anything
like that.

So you think it's been standing
since the Roman period?

So you think it's been standing
since the Roman period?

Yes, certainly,

certainly there are no records
of its demolition,

certainly there are no records
of its demolition,

but there are some modifications.

but there are some modifications.

We can see less arches than it used
to be.

We can see less arches than it used
to be.

Originally,

there were 21 arches, now we can see
only 14.

there were 21 arches, now we can see
only 14.

Uh, the river bed was much larger.

So, it would've been much longer.

So, it would've been much longer.

Yeah, it was much longer.
Yeah.

Yeah, it was much longer.
Yeah.

So we're really just looking at
the middle of this ancient bridge.

So we're really just looking at
the middle of this ancient bridge.

Yeah, yeah.

People would have crossed this
bridge then

People would have crossed this
bridge then

and entered the city.

Yes. This would have been
the city wall just here, would it?

Yes. This would have been
the city wall just here, would it?

Exactly,

and every Friday, people from

and every Friday, people from

the countryside would bring
their food

the countryside would bring
their food

and animals to sell
and to also buy things.

and animals to sell
and to also buy things.

and animals to sell
and to also buy things.

And as you know Friday is sacred
for Islam

And as you know Friday is sacred
for Islam

because you pray in
the Friday mosque on Fridays

because you pray in
the Friday mosque on Fridays

because you pray in
the Friday mosque on Fridays

and it has to be the Grand Mosque.

and it has to be the Grand Mosque.

Yeah, so you're coming to market
but you're also going to pray.

Yeah, so you're coming to market
but you're also going to pray.

Yeah, you come to market,

you pray and you have,
and you go to hammam,

you pray and you have,
and you go to hammam,

bath, you get cleaned up
and then you pray

bath, you get cleaned up
and then you pray

bath, you get cleaned up
and then you pray

and then you buy your stuff

and go back to your village.
Yeah.

and go back to your village.
Yeah.

And
so, it was until 1990s,

And
so, it was until 1990s,

almost. It was the same, yes.
Really?

almost. It was the same, yes.
Really?

That still,

that rhythm of life which had
carried on for centuries.

that rhythm of life which had
carried on for centuries.

Yes.

It was a key point then,

it was a key crossing point on
this river.

it was a key crossing point on
this river.

Definitely a very strategic

and very important point for

and very important point for

the Silk Route as well. Yeah.
And the trade routes.

the Silk Route as well. Yeah.
And the trade routes.

So it's always,
it's on the silk roads,

So it's always,
it's on the silk roads,

it's on that important route between
East and West.And it still is.

it's on that important route between
East and West.And it still is.

The Ottoman Empire
accumulated wealth

The Ottoman Empire
accumulated wealth

and power by controlling
the lucrative silk roads.

and power by controlling
the lucrative silk roads.

and power by controlling
the lucrative silk roads.

These trade routes spanned 4,000
miles from China,

These trade routes spanned 4,000
miles from China,

These trade routes spanned 4,000
miles from China,

through the Middle East into
Southern Europe.

through the Middle East into
Southern Europe.

Along these routes huge volumes
of wool,

Along these routes huge volumes
of wool,

gold, silver and spices could be
traded between the East

gold, silver and spices could be
traded between the East

and West, with profits flowing into
the Empire's coffers.

and West, with profits flowing into
the Empire's coffers.

Tomorrow,

I'm back on the train
to continue my Ottoman journey

I'm back on the train
to continue my Ottoman journey

and I'll be heading into
the mountains

and I'll be heading into
the mountains

to understand more about

the history of this unique corner of
the globe.

the history of this unique corner of
the globe.

It's early morning,
and time for me to leave Adana for

It's early morning,
and time for me to leave Adana for

the next leg of my
Ottoman adventure,

the next leg of my
Ottoman adventure,

learning about the origins of
the empire and what preceded it.

learning about the origins of
the empire and what preceded it.

learning about the origins of
the empire and what preceded it.

And I'm hoping my smattering

of Turkish will get me
the ticket I need.

of Turkish will get me
the ticket I need.

Merhaba.
Konya bir bilet.

Merhaba.
Konya bir bilet.

SPEAKS TURKISH

What is your name?

Alice.

Ah, well, it was worth a try.

Ah, well, it was worth a try.

Tesekkur ederim.

My destination is 166 miles
north-west of Adana,

My destination is 166 miles
north-west of Adana,

My destination is 166 miles
north-west of Adana,

the religious city of Konya.

the religious city of Konya.

And I'm taking the Taurus Express,
which is named after

And I'm taking the Taurus Express,
which is named after

the magnificent range

of mountains it
passes through.

of mountains it
passes through.

Oh, wow, look at that, lovely.

Oh, wow, look at that, lovely.

We're into the foothills of
the Taurus Mountains

We're into the foothills of
the Taurus Mountains

and as we rise up through
the Taurus Mountains,

and as we rise up through
the Taurus Mountains,

the terrain gets fairly difficult
for a railway

the terrain gets fairly difficult
for a railway

to traverse.

And in the early 20th century
Europe was hungry for oil.

And in the early 20th century
Europe was hungry for oil.

It wanted the oil from
the Middle East.

It wanted the oil from
the Middle East.

Germany in particular wanted
that oil

Germany in particular wanted
that oil

and they invested in

a railway running from Baghdad
in Iraq,

a railway running from Baghdad
in Iraq,

which was then under German control,
all the way

which was then under German control,
all the way

to Istanbul and then on to Berlin.

to Istanbul and then on to Berlin.

And as part of that railway, they
needed to cross

And as part of that railway, they
needed to cross

a particularly deep gorge

a particularly deep gorge

and they built the Varda Viaduct.

and they built the Varda Viaduct.

Now this viaduct is 172 metres long,

Now this viaduct is 172 metres long,

it's 98 metres tall.

it's 98 metres tall.

It's quite iconic

for James Bond fans - you might
recognise it from

for James Bond fans - you might
recognise it from

the opening scenes of Skyfall.

the opening scenes of Skyfall.

Aww. I got a lovely view of that,
just looking back,

Aww. I got a lovely view of that,
just looking back,

fantastic viaduct over a really,

fantastic viaduct over a really,

really deep gorge

and now we really are getting
up into

and now we really are getting
up into

the Taurus Mountains.

We've risen up as we've come up from

Adana about 1,000 metres above
sea level.

Adana about 1,000 metres above
sea level.

The Taurus Mountains separate
the Mediterranean coast from

The Taurus Mountains separate
the Mediterranean coast from

the central Anatolian plateau.

the central Anatolian plateau.

The highest peak rises more than
4,000 metres above sea level and

The highest peak rises more than
4,000 metres above sea level and

The highest peak rises more than
4,000 metres above sea level and

the mountains are
the source of two famous rivers,

the mountains are
the source of two famous rivers,

the Euphrates and the Tigris.

the Euphrates and the Tigris.

It's a wonderful landscape dotted
with waterfalls,

It's a wonderful landscape dotted
with waterfalls,

with underground rivers
and the largest caves in Asia.

with underground rivers
and the largest caves in Asia.

After passing through
the dramatic Taurus Mountain range,

After passing through
the dramatic Taurus Mountain range,

it's another five hours before we
reach Konya.

it's another five hours before we
reach Konya.

And it is an awe-inspiring journey
across miles

And it is an awe-inspiring journey
across miles

and miles of the stunning landscape
of the Central Anatolian plain.

and miles of the stunning landscape
of the Central Anatolian plain.

and miles of the stunning landscape
of the Central Anatolian plain.

It's now early afternoon

and I've finally made it
to Central Anatolia

and I've finally made it
to Central Anatolia

and ancient Konya.

and ancient Konya.

But before I begin to explore
the city's Ottoman past,

But before I begin to explore
the city's Ottoman past,

I'm interested in seeing what
preceded it.

I'm interested in seeing what
preceded it.

Hello, Merhaba.

HE REPLIES IN TURKISH

I want to go to Catalhoyuk.

I want to go to Catalhoyuk.

I'm heading out to
the dusty plains around Konya,

I'm heading out to
the dusty plains around Konya,

and the world heritage site

of Catalhoyuk, which doesn't look
like much from here.

of Catalhoyuk, which doesn't look
like much from here.

I'm meeting Dr Ali Turkcan,

I'm meeting Dr Ali Turkcan,

the excavation director who started
digging here 30 years ago as

the excavation director who started
digging here 30 years ago as

a student.

a student.

Hi, Alice.
Hello, you know, I've wanted to...

Hi, Alice.
Hello, you know, I've wanted to...

Welcome to Catalhoyuk.

I've wanted to come here for
so many years - this is amazing.
Yeah.

I've wanted to come here for
so many years - this is amazing.
Yeah.

I've wanted to come here for
so many years - this is amazing.
Yeah.

Catalhoyuk was discovered 65
years ago

Catalhoyuk was discovered 65
years ago

by British archaeologist,
James Mellaart, who,

by British archaeologist,
James Mellaart, who,

in 1958,

spotted a mound on
the dusty Konya plain and,

spotted a mound on
the dusty Konya plain and,

despite everyone saying there was
nothing out there,

despite everyone saying there was
nothing out there,

Mellaart began excavating...

Mellaart began excavating...

..and he put Turkey on

the map of early civilisation by
revealing this extraordinary

the map of early civilisation by
revealing this extraordinary

the map of early civilisation by
revealing this extraordinary

prehistoric settlement.

When did it start?

It started in 7,100 BC.

It started in 7,100 BC.

It started in 7,100 BC.

OK.

According to the radiocarbon.
The buildings,

According to the radiocarbon.
The buildings,

some buildings,
are just on top

some buildings,
are just on top

of each other, they are following
each other,

of each other, they are following
each other,

it's a very custom in
central Anatolia.

it's a very custom in
central Anatolia.

So you can imagine generations
and generations of people

So you can imagine generations
and generations of people

and gradually it gets higher
and higher.

and gradually it gets higher
and higher.

These houses,
over 50 years, the timespan.

These houses,
over 50 years, the timespan.

Yeah.

But we found 70 burials here.
It's very extraordinary.

But we found 70 burials here.
It's very extraordinary.

But we found 70 burials here.
It's very extraordinary.

70 burials in one house?
Yes, 70 burials in one house.

70 burials in one house?
Yes, 70 burials in one house.

When we think about burials

and particularly in later periods
we,

and particularly in later periods
we,

we're used to cemeteries being
separate from settlement sites.

we're used to cemeteries being
separate from settlement sites.

Um, yeah. Sometimes very close, but
not in them.

Um, yeah. Sometimes very close, but
not in them.

Not in them

but it's a Neolithic custom it's
a Neolithic custom,

but it's a Neolithic custom it's
a Neolithic custom,

and then they are living here. Yeah.
That's why...

and then they are living here. Yeah.
That's why...

So it's not like
a building that goes out of use

So it's not like
a building that goes out of use

and then becomes used as

a small cemetery - they're still
living in it, at the same time.

a small cemetery - they're still
living in it, at the same time.

Yeah, sure,

sure, probably for
a short duration time,

sure, probably for
a short duration time,

probably they, ah,

left the houses
because you can imagine the smell.

left the houses
because you can imagine the smell.

At its height,

how many people do you think
lived here?

how many people do you think
lived here?

It's over 7,000 people.

7,000 people.

Lived together because...

So that's more than a village.

It's a 14-hectare area.

It's a 14-hectare area.

14 hectares, so it's huge,
a huge site.

14 hectares, so it's huge,
a huge site.

It's a huge area.
Is it, it's not a village?

It's a huge area.
Is it, it's not a village?

It is... Is it reasonable to call
it...

It is... Is it reasonable to call
it...

2% of the area, here.

This is 2%?

Almost. This bit here is 2%?

That's crazy.Yeah.

I mean, absolutely massive...

Is it reasonable to call it
a city? Or a proto city?

Is it reasonable to call it
a city? Or a proto city?

Proto city, yes.
Yeah, yeah.

Proto city, yes.
Yeah, yeah.

We can, we should,
we should say proto city.

So this is a beginning
of urban living?

Of course. Yes.

Yeah, yeah, and they are
presumably. You know,

Yeah, yeah, and they are
presumably. You know,

they are farmers. They are,
they're farming

they are farmers. They are,
they're farming

the surrounding countryside, they're
bringing in resources from

the surrounding countryside, they're
bringing in resources from

elsewhere,

I mean, presumably they are
materially rich,

I mean, presumably they are
materially rich,

then? They can acquire
exotic materials?

then? They can acquire
exotic materials?

Exotic materials, uh-huh.

Exotic materials, uh-huh.

And from the burials,

burials can be different, in some
burials you can't find anything,

burials can be different, in some
burials you can't find anything,

burials can be different, in some
burials you can't find anything,

but in some burials, they are
furnished with

but in some burials, they are
furnished with

so many materials,
obsidian mirrors, daggers.

so many materials,
obsidian mirrors, daggers.

So if you've got
the difference in burials...

So if you've got
the difference in burials...

Some people being buried
with nothing,

you've got other people being buried

with objects including
exotic materials.Yes.

with objects including
exotic materials.Yes.

Do you think that's showing
social stratification?

Do you think that's showing
social stratification?

Do you think it's showing that there
are some people that are more

Do you think it's showing that there
are some people that are more

important than others?

Probably, at the base level there
was a social stratification

Probably, at the base level there
was a social stratification

and when you imagine 5,000 people
together, probably there were

and when you imagine 5,000 people
together, probably there were

and when you imagine 5,000 people
together, probably there were

stratification, uh-hm. Yeah.

stratification, uh-hm. Yeah.

Although they've only excavated

a fraction of this
extraordinary settlement

a fraction of this
extraordinary settlement

the archaeologists have been able
to create

the archaeologists have been able
to create

a reconstruction of what part

of Catalhoyuk would have been like
9,000 years ago.

of Catalhoyuk would have been like
9,000 years ago.

These houses were clustered
together in

These houses were clustered
together in

a honeycomb-like maze

and could be accessed through
the roof,

and could be accessed through
the roof,

with the rooftops acting like
streets.

with the rooftops acting like
streets.

They were built without windows,

they had one large living room
for the family,

they had one large living room
for the family,

complete with a fireplace, beds,

complete with a fireplace, beds,

raised platforms

and plastered walls decorated
with murals,

and plastered walls decorated
with murals,

and burials inside the houses.

and burials inside the houses.

The museum on the site displays
some of

The museum on the site displays
some of

the incredibly well-preserved

artefacts found in
the excavated homes.

artefacts found in
the excavated homes.

It's been a privilege

to visit this iconic Neolithic site

to visit this iconic Neolithic site

but tomorrow I'm back on
the trail of the Ottomans

but tomorrow I'm back on
the trail of the Ottomans

and the lasting imprint they left
across their empire.

and the lasting imprint they left
across their empire.

and the lasting imprint they left
across their empire.

I'm in central Turkey in
the ancient city of Konya

I'm in central Turkey in
the ancient city of Konya

I'm in central Turkey in
the ancient city of Konya

that was pivotal to
so many civilisations and religions,

that was pivotal to
so many civilisations and religions,

from the early Christians
to various followers of Islam.

from the early Christians
to various followers of Islam.

from the early Christians
to various followers of Islam.

Including the Ottomans, who arrived
here in

Including the Ottomans, who arrived
here in

the mid-15th century,

transforming the city
with their trademark architecture

transforming the city
with their trademark architecture

and numerous mosques, including
their piece de resistance,

and numerous mosques, including
their piece de resistance,

and numerous mosques, including
their piece de resistance,

the magnificent Selimiye Mosque.

the magnificent Selimiye Mosque.

Today, Konya has barely been touched
by international tourism,

Today, Konya has barely been touched
by international tourism,

Today, Konya has barely been touched
by international tourism,

but it is well-known in Turkey as
a popular pilgrim destination.

but it is well-known in Turkey as
a popular pilgrim destination.

but it is well-known in Turkey as
a popular pilgrim destination.

And that's

because it is home to
the mausoleum of

because it is home to
the mausoleum of

the revered 13th-century
Sufi mystic,

the revered 13th-century
Sufi mystic,

the poet and philosopher Rumi.

the poet and philosopher Rumi.

In the rose garden of
the religious complex I have come

In the rose garden of
the religious complex I have come

to watch a modern-day performance by
whirling dervishes,

to watch a modern-day performance by
whirling dervishes,

to watch a modern-day performance by
whirling dervishes,

followers of Rumi.

I'm also meeting tour guide
Zey Inaloz,

I'm also meeting tour guide
Zey Inaloz,

to learn more about
the spiritual basis of this dance

to learn more about
the spiritual basis of this dance

and about that religious leader,
Rumi, himself.

and about that religious leader,
Rumi, himself.

CHANTING MUSIC

CHANTING MUSIC

Hello. Hello.
Shall we sit down here?

Hello. Hello.
Shall we sit down here?

Yes, welcome.

Yes, welcome.

This is amazing.

It's amazing, right.

I haven't seen whirling
dervishes before.

I haven't seen whirling
dervishes before.

Ah, OK, this is your first time?

It is and it's not quite what
I expected,

It is and it's not quite what
I expected,

it's extremely hypnotising, it's
kind of mesmeric.

it's extremely hypnotising, it's
kind of mesmeric.

it's extremely hypnotising, it's
kind of mesmeric.

Yeah, it's totally magical.

Yeah.

The dance of whirling dervishes is
called Sema,

The dance of whirling dervishes is
called Sema,

and is, we call that Sema,
sema, which means sky.

and is, we call that Sema,
sema, which means sky.

and is, we call that Sema,
sema, which means sky.

It is growing yourself
an inner spiritual.

It is growing yourself
an inner spiritual.

It is growing yourself
an inner spiritual.

We came from the God
and we will return back to God,

We came from the God
and we will return back to God,

that's why they were holding their
arms like that

that's why they were holding their
arms like that

and standing position.

and standing position.

They did that.

They did that, right.

They did that to begin with,
and then they unfurl.

They did that to begin with,
and then they unfurl.

And unfurl

and they're opening their arms into
right hands facing

and they're opening their arms into
right hands facing

to sky, left is facing to ground,
to soil.

to sky, left is facing to ground,
to soil.

Right, yeah.

That means we came from the God

That means we came from the God

and we will return back to
the God with nothing.

and we will return back to
the God with nothing.

So, this is a kind
of religious meditation.

So, this is a kind
of religious meditation.

It is exactly a kind
of religious meditation.

It is exactly a kind
of religious meditation.

It comes from the Sufi's custom,

It comes from the Sufi's custom,

because this custom became
a very popular belief in Turkey.

because this custom became
a very popular belief in Turkey.

because this custom became
a very popular belief in Turkey.

And the meaning

of dervish itself - is
this essentially,

of dervish itself - is
this essentially,

somebody like a monk who has taken
a vow of poverty?

somebody like a monk who has taken
a vow of poverty?

Is that what it is?

It is not exactly poverty

It is not exactly poverty

but what you call dervishes is
a perfection man.

but what you call dervishes is
a perfection man.

but what you call dervishes is
a perfection man.

He can't be anger,
you can control yourself,

He can't be anger,
you can control yourself,

you should be patient.

The point is if you are able

The point is if you are able

to love at difficult things in
your life,

to love at difficult things in
your life,

you can be a Dervish.

And it is very hard
to control yourself, indeed.

And it is very hard
to control yourself, indeed.

Yeah.

It is very difficult
to love your hater.

It is very difficult
to love your hater.

Yeah.
Very, very hard.

Yeah.
Very, very hard.

God will love you

and God will welcome you in
his heaven.

and God will welcome you in
his heaven.

And your life in the world
will be heaven.

And your life in the world
will be heaven.

Yeah, yeah.

Because your heart already
became clean.

Because your heart already
became clean.

So trying to find heaven on Earth.

So trying to find heaven on Earth.

Trying to achieve some kind
of transcendental state

Trying to achieve some kind
of transcendental state

with this meditation.
So a deeply spiritual thing.

with this meditation.
So a deeply spiritual thing.

Yeah, deeply spiritual thing, yeah.

Yeah, deeply spiritual thing, yeah.

Although Konya is home to

the original whirling dervishes,

It's possible to see

the Sema ceremony being performed
in other

the Sema ceremony being performed
in other

Turkish cities.

The traditional costume includes

The traditional costume includes

long skirts that fan out while
whirling.

long skirts that fan out while
whirling.

But these white gowns also symbolise
burial shrouds.

But these white gowns also symbolise
burial shrouds.

And the tall felt hats
represent tombstones.

And the tall felt hats
represent tombstones.

This cemetery is next to
the historic lodge of

This cemetery is next to
the historic lodge of

the dervishes,

built in the 16th century by
Ottoman sultans.

built in the 16th century by
Ottoman sultans.

There is a small mosque

and through the gate of
the dervishes is the madrasah,

and through the gate of
the dervishes is the madrasah,

the theological school

the theological school

for Rumi's followers who would
spend up

for Rumi's followers who would
spend up

to 1,000 days training for
the Sema ceremony.

to 1,000 days training for
the Sema ceremony.

The lodge now forms part of
the Mevlana Museum.

The lodge now forms part of
the Mevlana Museum.

Which includes the outstanding,
domed mausoleum

Which includes the outstanding,
domed mausoleum

containing Rumi's tomb.

containing Rumi's tomb.

This is the oldest part of
the complex

This is the oldest part of
the complex

and was built by Rumi's sons in

the late 13th century, after he died
at the age of 66.

the late 13th century, after he died
at the age of 66.

the late 13th century, after he died
at the age of 66.

It is one of Turkey's most important
pilgrimage sites

It is one of Turkey's most important
pilgrimage sites

with more than

one-and-a-half million visitors
coming every year

one-and-a-half million visitors
coming every year

to honour their adored Sufi mystic.

to honour their adored Sufi mystic.

And when you step inside, it is
breathtaking.

And when you step inside, it is
breathtaking.

Among the opulent artefacts

Among the opulent artefacts

is the simpler bronze Nisan Tas,

is the simpler bronze Nisan Tas,

the April Bowl that
collected rainwater,

the April Bowl that
collected rainwater,

sacred to local farmers,

sacred to local farmers,

and into which the tip
of Rumi's turban was dipped

and into which the tip
of Rumi's turban was dipped

and used for healing.

and used for healing.

The mausoleum contains
a number of tombs.

The mausoleum contains
a number of tombs.

But the most lavish is that
of Rumi himself,

But the most lavish is that
of Rumi himself,

covered in an elaborate brocade
embroidered in gold

covered in an elaborate brocade
embroidered in gold

with verses from the Koran.

with verses from the Koran.

And topped with

a huge turban symbolising his
high status.

a huge turban symbolising his
high status.

a huge turban symbolising his
high status.

The number of wraps denotes
the level of importance.

The number of wraps denotes
the level of importance.

The room next to
the burial chamber is where

The room next to
the burial chamber is where

the dervishes once prayed
and performed

the dervishes once prayed
and performed

but today it's filled with cultural

and ritual objects, including copies
of the Koran

and ritual objects, including copies
of the Koran

and manuscripts of Rumi's poetry.

and manuscripts of Rumi's poetry.

The dervishes also led
the way in developing

The dervishes also led
the way in developing

the sounds of traditional Turkish
religious music.

the sounds of traditional Turkish
religious music.

It's been a captivating journey

so far, reminding us just how
much religion,

so far, reminding us just how
much religion,

politics and power were intertwined
and still are,

politics and power were intertwined
and still are,

politics and power were intertwined
and still are,

from the oldest mosque, in Adana,

from the oldest mosque, in Adana,

to the huge,
new Sabanci Mosque.

to the huge,
new Sabanci Mosque.

I've discovered

the Ottoman origins of one

of Turkey's most famous delicacies.

of Turkey's most famous delicacies.

And I've learned about
the ancient mystical practice of

And I've learned about
the ancient mystical practice of

the whirling dervishes of Konya.

the whirling dervishes of Konya.

I'm getting insights into
Ottoman culture,

I'm getting insights into
Ottoman culture,

as well as the importance
of Islam in their empire.

as well as the importance
of Islam in their empire.

as well as the importance
of Islam in their empire.

But there are more Ottoman secrets

But there are more Ottoman secrets

and treasures that await me,

and it's time to get back on
the train.

and it's time to get back on
the train.

Next time, I go to the capital,
Ankara,

Next time, I go to the capital,
Ankara,

to see the tomb of Ataturk, who
ended the Ottoman Empire.

to see the tomb of Ataturk, who
ended the Ottoman Empire.

This is so impressive.
It is, yeah,

This is so impressive.
It is, yeah,

it's probably the most monumental
thing you will ever see.

it's probably the most monumental
thing you will ever see.

And I take a challenging trip...

And I take a challenging trip...

..to the old Ottoman capital,

Bursa, where it all began with
a dream.

Bursa, where it all began with
a dream.

This is the mausoleum
of Osman, himself,

This is the mausoleum
of Osman, himself,

the sultan who started
the Ottoman Empire.

the sultan who started
the Ottoman Empire.

Two contrasting cities
and two historic leaders,

Two contrasting cities
and two historic leaders,

who bookended 600 years
of Ottoman rule.

who bookended 600 years
of Ottoman rule.

Subtitles by Red Bee Media

Subtitles by Red Bee Media