Original subtitles

NARRATOR: The basilica of the Holy Sepulchre in Jerusalem

is one of the world's holiest monuments,

with around three million visitors each year.

with around three million visitors each year.

- This is not a museum, this is a holy place.

NARRATOR: It's here that builders in antiquity and the Middle Ages

would gradually create a basilica spanning 8,000 square metres ...

would gradually create a basilica spanning 8,000 square metres ...

over what is said to be the tomb of Jesus Christ.

TRANSLATOR: There isn't a cathedral

TRANSLATOR: There isn't a cathedral

on any continent in the world that looks like this one.

- It's an enormous complex of different structures.

NARRATOR: In this bewildering superstructure,

piecing together the puzzle brings revelations around every corner.

- For me, as an archaeologist,

the most exciting part of the church is this area here.

NARRATOR: For over 1,700 years,

this amazing monument has survived countless dangers...

thanks to the skill of its builders.

thanks to the skill of its builders.

- It's a, really, history of construction and destruction,

and construction, and destruction, and reconstruction.

and construction, and destruction, and reconstruction.

- It is amazing that the Church of the Holy Sepulchre

is still here today.

NARRATOR: So how was the tomb of Jesus Christ

NARRATOR: So how was the tomb of Jesus Christ

protected for two millennia?

How could the structures have been built one on top of the other...

..and on such unstable ground?

TRANSLATOR: This place was, indeed, a cemetery at the time of Jesus.

TRANSLATOR: This place was, indeed, a cemetery at the time of Jesus.

- These six huge pillars hold the whole construction.

- If you were simply to put a column directly onto the floor,

- If you were simply to put a column directly onto the floor,

it would sink into the ground.

NARRATOR: For the first time,

using the latest scanning and ground-penetrating radar technology

using the latest scanning and ground-penetrating radar technology

we'll X-ray this huge puzzle of stone.

TRANSLATOR: It's a completely new method.

TRANSLATOR: It's a completely new method.

Thanks to these scatter plots, you can even walk through walls.

NARRATOR: By shining a light on its construction,

NARRATOR: By shining a light on its construction,

we'll see how its remarkable builders

made this sacred ancient superstructure...

..into a protective shield.

At first, it's hard to spot in the maze of Jerusalem's streets.

But with two blue-grey domes, topped with golden crosses...

..and a square bell tower overlooking the courtyard,

..and a square bell tower overlooking the courtyard,

the imposing Church of the Holy Sepulchre emerges from the skyline.

Together with the nearby esplanade of the mosques, or Temple Mount,

Together with the nearby esplanade of the mosques, or Temple Mount,

and the Wailing Wall, the Holy Sepulchre

is one of the holy city's most emblematic monuments.

is one of the holy city's most emblematic monuments.

This centuries-old basilica is an immense and complex superstructure.

This centuries-old basilica is an immense and complex superstructure.

It is located in the Middle East, in the Old City of Jerusalem,

in the heart of the Christian Quarter.

in the heart of the Christian Quarter.

In an area only 120m long and 70m wide,

In an area only 120m long and 70m wide,

about the size of a football pitch,

the two domes of the Holy Sepulchre

shelter more than 20 shrines and chapels, over several levels.

shelter more than 20 shrines and chapels, over several levels.

From the depths of the building - the Chapel of St Vartan...

From the depths of the building - the Chapel of St Vartan...

..to the top of the cross in the central dome,

the Holy Sepulchre rises more than 50m.

Writer Marie-Armelle Beaulieu is one of the leading experts

Writer Marie-Armelle Beaulieu is one of the leading experts

on the Holy Sepulchre.

Beneath the great dome, she sees it not as a church like any other...

Beneath the great dome, she sees it not as a church like any other...

- but a shield of stone,

designed to protect the most sacred place of the Christian faith.

designed to protect the most sacred place of the Christian faith.

- (speaks French)

TRANSLATOR: We're here in the rotunda,

a unique place because you don't usually see this in most churches.

a unique place because you don't usually see this in most churches.

This small building protects what's left of the funerary grotto

This small building protects what's left of the funerary grotto

in which Jesus's body was laid for burial.

NARRATOR: In this casing, according to Christians,

is the tomb of Jesus Christ...

and, therefore, also the place where he was resurrected.

and, therefore, also the place where he was resurrected.

The entire structure of the Holy Sepulchre

The entire structure of the Holy Sepulchre

is designed to preserve this shrine.

The tomb, located in the centre of the rotunda,

The tomb, located in the centre of the rotunda,

beneath the great dome of the basilica,

is protected by a shell called the Edicule.

The crucifixion site is also inside the building,

to the right of the entrance to the main nave.

Today, only a small portion of this funerary rock remains,

preserved behind glass.

preserved behind glass.

Jodi Magness, an American archaeologist,

specialises in the biblical period.

- Over the course of time,

- Over the course of time,

it's been cut back both by construction of the church

and pilgrims chipping away and taking pieces home as souvenirs.

NARRATOR: For 2,000 years, these sacred remains

have survived looting, wars, fires and earthquakes...

have survived looting, wars, fires and earthquakes...

thanks to the protective shield of the Holy Sepulchre.

Creating such a solid basilica

needed many new building techniques...

to encase places as different and difficult as a tomb

to encase places as different and difficult as a tomb

and a rocky place of execution.

Peeling away its immense shell of stone provides some clues.

Peeling away its immense shell of stone provides some clues.

The varied and complex structure

is nothing like that of a traditional Christian church.

is nothing like that of a traditional Christian church.

With its two large domes supported by huge walls,

With its two large domes supported by huge walls,

and several levels of both round and rectangular sections,

it's a unique and many-layered place...

it's a unique and many-layered place...

..a superstructure which confounds both visitors and experts.

..a superstructure which confounds both visitors and experts.

TRANSLATOR: You're completely taken aback when you go inside.

Usually, you first see the choir area,

and you feel settled... but here, everything you see is unusual.

and you feel settled... but here, everything you see is unusual.

This church has nothing in common with any church

of all the Christian denominations you can find in the world.

NARRATOR: So who were the builders

NARRATOR: So who were the builders

who devised such complex architecture?

At the entrance to the Holy Sepulchre,

the expert eye of Art Historian Anastasia Keshman

the expert eye of Art Historian Anastasia Keshman

finds evidence in the facade.

- The facade of the Holy Sepulchre is the most complicated part.

First of all, made with a lot of spolia:

First of all, made with a lot of spolia:

elements that were used from previous buildings.

Second, because it was built and rebuilt.

Second, because it was built and rebuilt.

NARRATOR: So this wall was a mix

of decorative elements from different periods.

Some embellishments, like these finely sculpted arches,

Some embellishments, like these finely sculpted arches,

were put up in the Middle Ages, but using much older stone.

- For example, the middle part,

the entablature and also the most upper part,

the entablature and also the most upper part,

is most probably dated by the Roman type... from the second century.

NARRATOR: The entrance to the Holy Sepulchre

NARRATOR: The entrance to the Holy Sepulchre

shows that several generations of builders

contributed pieces of this architectural puzzle

at very different times.

at very different times.

With such a mixture,

it's a challenge to get an overview of the building

and break down the successive layers of its construction.

and break down the successive layers of its construction.

To help solve this puzzle, we meet Grazia Tucci,

To help solve this puzzle, we meet Grazia Tucci,

an engineer in Geographic Information Systems.

At the head of a team of 20,

she's modelled this superstructure in the heart of Jerusalem

to create the first 3-D digital model of the Holy Sepulchre.

to create the first 3-D digital model of the Holy Sepulchre.

TRANSLATOR: It really is a new method,

TRANSLATOR: It really is a new method,

because we can fly over rooftops and go underground wherever we want.

Thanks to these scattered plots,

Thanks to these scattered plots,

we can even go through walls.

NARRATOR: As it's been created by builders

NARRATOR: As it's been created by builders

from three periods of history,

the Holy Sepulchre is a puzzle that's hard to solve.

While some parts of the large dome date from the 19th century,

While some parts of the large dome date from the 19th century,

most of the nave was built around the 12th century...

..though some stones date back to the Roman Empire,

in the 4th century or even earlier.

Most of this ancient superstructure dates from the medieval period,

over 800 years ago.

The building techniques of that time,

used to erect such a solid shell of stone,

need closer examination.

need closer examination.

KESHMAN: The bell tower's part of

the European Romanesque architecture, of course.

It's very massive: it is built with large amount of stones,

It's very massive: it is built with large amount of stones,

which is very... it is one of the major features

of the Romanesque architecture.

of the Romanesque architecture.

It is one of the signs Christian European presence in the Holy Land.

We don't have any bell towers before in the Holy Land, nor in Jerusalem.

We don't have any bell towers before in the Holy Land, nor in Jerusalem.

NARRATOR: This square tower, next to the main building,

looks more like the bell tower of a Romanesque church in Southern France

looks more like the bell tower of a Romanesque church in Southern France

than a tower from the Middle East.

It's typical of the crusader builders.

- (church bell rings)

- (church bell rings)

- Much of the church, as you see it today,

is a product of the crusader reconstruction.

is a product of the crusader reconstruction.

In fact, the Crusades were launched in order to retake

and rebuild the Church of the Holy Sepulchre.

and rebuild the Church of the Holy Sepulchre.

TRANSLATOR: So they know the basilica has been partly,

or totally, destroyed.

And that's why they've come to conquer Jerusalem:

And that's why they've come to conquer Jerusalem:

to rescue the tomb of Jesus and protect it with a new building.

NARRATOR: The crusaders, Europe's Christian warriors,

took this holy site from the Muslim Turks in 1099.

took this holy site from the Muslim Turks in 1099.

It was the main aim of the First Crusade.

The basilica was consecrated 50 years later,

on 15th July 1149.

on 15th July 1149.

The bell tower evokes the grandeur of the crusader builders' project...

The bell tower evokes the grandeur of the crusader builders' project...

although it has changed much since its construction.

Originally, the monumental tower reached a height of 48m,

Originally, the monumental tower reached a height of 48m,

18m higher than the main dome.

But in 1545, the tower was partly destroyed by an earthquake,

But in 1545, the tower was partly destroyed by an earthquake,

and lost two storeys down to its present height of 28m.

To create openings in the walls,

the builders used what's known as broken arches,

resting on two side pillars.

resting on two side pillars.

This approach was also used in European medieval cathedrals,

as were these small marble columns...

as were these small marble columns...

and this four-petal window.

This style of broken arches, new for the period,

This style of broken arches, new for the period,

can also be seen on the windows framing the bells.

- When you look at them carefully,

- When you look at them carefully,

they are not round, as in Romanesque front, they're pointed.

And this is the feature that art historians believe

And this is the feature that art historians believe

the crusaders accepted from the local Muslim architecture.

So probably the crusaders, and you can see it here,

So probably the crusaders, and you can see it here,

were the first who invented it,

or introduced it, to the Western architecture.

NARRATOR: The crusader builders adopted some architectural elements

local to the Middle East...

while importing their own European techniques.

while importing their own European techniques.

Although not obvious from the outside,

or even when you enter through the main door,

or even when you enter through the main door,

the basilica is built on the traditional shape

of European churches.

TRANSLATOR: The crusaders are going to do what they knew how to do

at the time: a Romanesque church.

NARRATOR: A church where the two main axes form a cross.

NARRATOR: A church where the two main axes form a cross.

The entrance to the Holy Sepulchre is on the south side,

The entrance to the Holy Sepulchre is on the south side,

in one of the two arms of the transept.

The tomb and the crucifixion site of Calvary

The tomb and the crucifixion site of Calvary

are at the west and east respectively,

on the longitudinal section.

There are other design elements of European cathedrals here:

the centre of the church is surrounded by aisles,

the centre of the church is surrounded by aisles,

with galleries on the side.

And the entire space is covered by high vaulting,

a particular technical challenge for the crusaders.

a particular technical challenge for the crusaders.

- They have to build not just a cathedral,

- They have to build not just a cathedral,

but a cathedral that includes inside

the Holy Sepulchre and the rock of Golgotha.

the Holy Sepulchre and the rock of Golgotha.

And here there was nothing: it was an open courtyard.

And when crusaders arrived,

they decided that they squeeze, inside this empty space,

they decided that they squeeze, inside this empty space,

the Romanesque cathedral,

which seems as an absolutely impossible task, but they did that.

which seems as an absolutely impossible task, but they did that.

NARRATOR: The crusader builders needed some special techniques

NARRATOR: The crusader builders needed some special techniques

to fit their building into the existing site.

- You have six pillars: one...

- You have six pillars: one...

two, three - you don't see it, but it's there -

four, five and six.

four, five and six.

These six huge pillars hold the whole construction.

NARRATOR: These six massive pillars support the entire roof of the nave

NARRATOR: These six massive pillars support the entire roof of the nave

and the smaller cupola.

With a diameter of 20m and a height of 29m,

With a diameter of 20m and a height of 29m,

this dome is formed by rings of stone blocks

with a slight incline at each layer.

with a slight incline at each layer.

This means it can be assembled without a wooden framework.

Around the dome, on the other side of these arches,

the crusaders also used a new technique,

the crusaders also used a new technique,

revolutionising the appearance of European cathedrals at that time:

ribbed ogive vaulting, which is a key feature of Gothic art.

ribbed ogive vaulting, which is a key feature of Gothic art.

This type of vaulting is made by broken arches

This type of vaulting is made by broken arches

that meet at a point, known as ogives.

Each ogive is formed from small blocks of stone

that join at the top.

This framework is covered to form four vaults,

whose weight and downward thrust are supported solely by the pillars,

whose weight and downward thrust are supported solely by the pillars,

making it possible to open up or remove walls

that are no longer load-bearing.

that are no longer load-bearing.

- The moment that the arch became pointed, it became even more higher.

And then you can create a very large cathedral,

And then you can create a very large cathedral,

very long and very wide.

So it was really a 12th-century...

..revolution.

NARRATOR: Crossed ogives, supported by broken arches,

NARRATOR: Crossed ogives, supported by broken arches,

and topped by a dome...

..the crusaders combined their Gothic cathedral-building techniques

with elements of Byzantine architecture.

with elements of Byzantine architecture.

But on one of these vaults,

there's a clue that the crusaders did not start from scratch

there's a clue that the crusaders did not start from scratch

when they built their basilica.

On this pointed arch,

two of the four arches do not fit together perfectly...

two of the four arches do not fit together perfectly...

..a detail that says a lot about the history of this superstructure.

- When you look at the arch that comes from the front-right pillar

to the back-left pillar,

to the back-left pillar,

they don't touch each other at the centre,

but they kind of meet like that.

The question is why it is like that.

The question is why it is like that.

NARRATOR: To obtain perfect cross-vaults

like these on the south transept,

like these on the south transept,

the four arches need to rest on four pillars

arranged in the shape of a perfect rectangle.

But of the four north pillars,

the one on the left is not correctly set,

making it impossible to get perfect alignment

between the two half-arches.

So why isn't this pillar placed correctly?

So why isn't this pillar placed correctly?

Because when they arrived at the Holy Sepulchre,

the crusaders built two outer pillars

to buttress two existing columns.

to buttress two existing columns.

These columns are themselves parallel to the wall facing them,

which marks the edge of the Holy Sepulchre.

which marks the edge of the Holy Sepulchre.

- They didn't remove that irregular wall,

and they squeezed this modulus of the ribbed vault...

well, even if it's not really perfect!

well, even if it's not really perfect!

I think it is completely fantastic,

because it shows the attitude of the crusaders

to the church that were standing there,

to the church that were standing there,

NARRATOR: But what was the older basilica

from which the crusaders adapted their own construction?

from which the crusaders adapted their own construction?

This outer wall and these columns,

already there when the crusaders arrived,

already there when the crusaders arrived,

date back to the 4th century,

800 years before the medieval version.

TRANSLATOR: This column here is remarkable,

because it's been standing for 1,700 years.

There aren't many buildings, and especially,

There aren't many buildings, and especially,

not many churches in France, that are 1,700 years old.

It's quite amazing.

NARRATOR: These columns belong to the first version

of the basilica of the Holy Sepulchre.

And we owe it to the Roman Emperor Constantine.

And we owe it to the Roman Emperor Constantine.

As the first Emperor to convert to Christianity,

in the early 4th century,

he's seen as the one who changed the face of the world.

he's seen as the one who changed the face of the world.

In the space of just a few decades,

the Emperor Constantine built a number of magnificent churches,

the Emperor Constantine built a number of magnificent churches,

including the two most important in Christianity today:

St Peter's in the Vatican, in Rome,

and the Holy Sepulchre in Jerusalem.

and the Holy Sepulchre in Jerusalem.

While not having the form we know today,

While not having the form we know today,

an impressive Christian basilica arose in AD 324,

and in only ten years, it covered an area of almost two hectares.

and in only ten years, it covered an area of almost two hectares.

- It covered a larger area than the church that we see today.

So, originally, the church would have stretched farther to the east,

So, originally, the church would have stretched farther to the east,

meaning farther to the right of the way that we're looking.

NARRATOR: Pilgrims entered the basilica of Constantine

from the east, from the main Roman road

running through the city of Jerusalem.

running through the city of Jerusalem.

Once through the atrium,

they would enter a nave 60m long and 45m wide,

lined with two rows of double columns

lined with two rows of double columns

and a roof some 30m high.

They then left the nave through a small building

They then left the nave through a small building

covering the rock of Calvary,

after which is a huge circular structure, the rotunda,

with a tomb at its centre.

with a tomb at its centre.

The rotunda is topped by a 37m dome,

The rotunda is topped by a 37m dome,

supported by a forest of arches, pillars and columns on three levels.

With this architectural jewel,

Constantine sought to protect the tomb of Jesus,

Constantine sought to protect the tomb of Jesus,

who had died here 300 years earlier.

In the western part of the Holy Sepulchre,

right next to the tomb, Jodi Magness takes us to a small chapel.

right next to the tomb, Jodi Magness takes us to a small chapel.

- For me, as an archaeologist,

the most exciting part of the church is this area here,

where we see an opening in the wall

where we see an opening in the wall

of a niche - an apse - off of the rotunda,

which leads into this sort of dark area underground.

which leads into this sort of dark area underground.

NARRATOR: This cave, discovered in the 17th century,

NARRATOR: This cave, discovered in the 17th century,

is a remarkable archaeological find.

- This whole area was a big rocky outcrop,

- This whole area was a big rocky outcrop,

and what we see here are typical Jewish rock-cut tombs

of the time of Jesus,

which basically consisted of one or more rooms.

which basically consisted of one or more rooms.

Each individual would be placed in this kind of niche.

TRANSLATOR: It tells us that this place was, indeed,

TRANSLATOR: It tells us that this place was, indeed,

a cemetery at the time of Jesus.

It's not just a tomb for Jesus,

it's a series of burial chambers dug into the mountain of Jerusalem.

it's a series of burial chambers dug into the mountain of Jerusalem.

NARRATOR: 2,000 years ago, on the site of the Holy Sepulchre,

NARRATOR: 2,000 years ago, on the site of the Holy Sepulchre,

near the ramparts of Jerusalem's western entrance,

the rocky slopes were used as a cemetery.

The limestone became a necropolis,

with numerous tombs dug directly into the rock.

The presumed tomb of Jesus included a stone bench

The presumed tomb of Jesus included a stone bench

on which his body was said to have been laid after being crucified,

a few dozen metres up the hill known as the rock of Calvary, or Golgotha.

TRANSLATOR: 'Golgotha' means 'the place of the skull'.

It's like a natural platform overhanging the cemetery.

It's like a natural platform overhanging the cemetery.

And it was an ideal place for the Romans to crucify people.

Because it overlooked the cemetery,

those crucified at the top could be seen from far away.

those crucified at the top could be seen from far away.

NARRATOR: Three centuries later,

NARRATOR: Three centuries later,

Constantine was determined to include the two venerated sites

of Jesus's death within his basilica.

of Jesus's death within his basilica.

But fitting a rocky outcrop into his monument was a challenge.

TRANSLATOR: To make Golgotha fit inside his basilica,

Constantine carved it.

He cut into the rock to make it a sort of tooth shape.

He cut into the rock to make it a sort of tooth shape.

NARRATOR: And when it came to the tomb of Jesus,

Constantine did not hold back.

Constantine did not hold back.

TRANSLATOR: In fact, he even breaks up the mountain around this cave

to create the rotunda.

NARRATOR: Several thousand cubic metres of rock

are thought to have been extracted from around the tomb.

- Sure. That's a big project.

- Sure. That's a big project.

Remember, back then, they're working by hand.

They don't have, you know, machines like we do today.

So, sure, that's a lot of work, but if you think about it,

So, sure, that's a lot of work, but if you think about it,

the whole church complex was a lot of work,

because the building itself is monumental.

NARRATOR: To know how a superstructure

NARRATOR: To know how a superstructure

like the Holy Sepulchre can rest on an ancient cemetery

means looking at the foundations

when Constantine built his basilica...

when Constantine built his basilica...

..and going into the bowels of the monument...

..and going into the bowels of the monument...

..behind this door closed to the public.

It leads to the eastern edge of the Holy Sepulchre

at its deepest part.

at its deepest part.

Jodi Magness is in an underground cavern,

only discovered in 1971 during an archaeological dig.

only discovered in 1971 during an archaeological dig.

- When Constantine built the Church of the Holy Sepulchre here,

his basilica was built above this quarry.

his basilica was built above this quarry.

NARRATOR: This quarry, which supports part of the Holy Sepulchre,

NARRATOR: This quarry, which supports part of the Holy Sepulchre,

is over 2,700 years old.

- ..we are actually looking at is the remains of a quarry,

- ..we are actually looking at is the remains of a quarry,

which dates mostly to the late Iron Age,

meaning eighth and seventh centuries BC.

So this was the source of building stone for much of Jerusalem.

So this was the source of building stone for much of Jerusalem.

You can clearly see the signs of quarrying

in the form of these sorts of lines,

in the form of these sorts of lines,

mostly vertical or diagonal lines in the rock,

which is where they literally cut the blocks of stone

which is where they literally cut the blocks of stone

out from the quarry.

And you can also very clearly see, in some cases, in the bedding,

what they do is they... they chisel away like this.

what they do is they... they chisel away like this.

Sometimes they would put in a piece of wood, and they would make it wet

so it would expand and separate this.

so it would expand and separate this.

So this is actually part of the outline

of a block of stone for being quarried.

Yeah.

Yeah.

NARRATOR: Centuries later, at the time of Jesus,

a necropolis was part of these quarries, several hectares in size.

a necropolis was part of these quarries, several hectares in size.

To strengthen such a fragile underground area

was a big challenge for the builders.

Their solution was to build imposing load-bearing walls,

like this one, to support the 4th-century basilica

like this one, to support the 4th-century basilica

just opposite the remains of the quarry.

- And in order to support the weight of the building,

- And in order to support the weight of the building,

the foundations had to be sunk very deep,

all the way down to the bottom of the quarry.

all the way down to the bottom of the quarry.

And so it's not surprising...

that in a building like the Church of the Holy Sepulchre,

which was a monumental church,

which was a monumental church,

you would have monumental foundations.

Again, even though these were not visible,

they had to be large enough, substantial enough,

to support the weight of the superstructure.

to support the weight of the superstructure.

NARRATOR: Some of the more vulnerable areas

required special reinforcement.

required special reinforcement.

This unassuming wall is part of the remains of foundations

that were key to the structure of the Holy Sepulchre

that were key to the structure of the Holy Sepulchre

in the 4th century.

- Constantine's basilica was a large rectangular hall

- Constantine's basilica was a large rectangular hall

that had four rows of columns going along its length.

If you were simply to put a column directly onto the floor

If you were simply to put a column directly onto the floor

without its own foundation, because of the weight of the roof,

it would sink into the ground.

So this is the wall for the foundations of the columns

So this is the wall for the foundations of the columns

that support the roofing system of the building.

NARRATOR: Support walls allow a superstructure

to be built above such unstable subsoil.

Although it's now disappeared,

Constantine's basilica has left its mark on the building.

Constantine's basilica has left its mark on the building.

The columns seem like a condensed version

of the turbulent history of its construction.

Discovered during works in 1974,

Discovered during works in 1974,

they had previously been hidden inside these massive pillars.

When they were unearthed,

archaeologists dated their installation to, at least,

archaeologists dated their installation to, at least,

the creation of Constantine's basilica in the 4th century.

But a new architectural detail caught their attention.

But a new architectural detail caught their attention.

- (speaks French)

- (speaks French)

TRANSLATOR: If you look at the rotunda as a whole,

and at all the columns today,

you realise that there's something slightly wrong.

It's as if the columns are too wide for their height.

It's not harmonious.

NARRATOR: Experts have detected another anomaly in these columns.

TRANSLATOR: Look at this sculptural frieze at the bottom of this column.

The column opposite doesn't have the same frieze.

On the other hand, at the top of this column,

there's a small frieze,

and this small frieze isn't actually in the column opposite.

and this small frieze isn't actually in the column opposite.

For archaeologists, it meant one thing:

this is the same column,

very tall, and, therefore, very heavy, cut in two.

very tall, and, therefore, very heavy, cut in two.

Which is why the frieze above, and the socket below,

can be found on two separate elements on the right and left.

can be found on two separate elements on the right and left.

It's the same column cut in two,

which you'll find on all the pairs of columns in the rotunda.

which you'll find on all the pairs of columns in the rotunda.

NARRATOR: These two columns, which originally formed a single column,

date back even further than the time of Constantine,

date back even further than the time of Constantine,

who simply reused them.

The originals are kept in this museum close to the Holy Sepulchre.

They date from the 2nd century.

It's proof that before Constantine's basilica,

there was an early superstructure here,

there was an early superstructure here,

a monument that came before the first version of the Holy Sepulchre.

It was the work of another great Roman Emperor, Hadrian.

It was the work of another great Roman Emperor, Hadrian.

- When Hadrian decided to rebuild Jerusalem,

- When Hadrian decided to rebuild Jerusalem,

in his mind, it would be not a Jewish city,

but rather a typical sort of a Roman city.

NARRATOR: At that time, the presumed tomb of Jesus

was one of several funerary niches in the Jewish necropolis

at the heart of the quarry.

at the heart of the quarry.

- (speaks French)

TRANSLATOR: So he simply buries it.

He undertakes a colossal project to fill in the quarry,

He undertakes a colossal project to fill in the quarry,

level the ground and build the Roman temple on top

so that it would stand out in the city's landscape.

so that it would stand out in the city's landscape.

NARRATOR: On the site of the Holy Sepulchre, 1,800 years ago,

Hadrian erected a magnificent Roman temple...

Hadrian erected a magnificent Roman temple...

..130m long and 30m wide,

honouring the gods of antiquity.

honouring the gods of antiquity.

This Roman esplanade was much larger than the Holy Sepulchre today.

This Roman esplanade was much larger than the Holy Sepulchre today.

Hadrian's building extended as far

as what is now the Russian Nevsky Church,

as what is now the Russian Nevsky Church,

a neighbouring building to the east of the Holy Sepulchre.

Jodi Magness shows us elements of Hadrian's temple

that are still visible.

This wall of large stone blocks was built around 135 AD

This wall of large stone blocks was built around 135 AD

and later used by Constantine.

- Where we are standing now is at the corner

of the basilica that Hadrian built on the north side of the forum:

of the basilica that Hadrian built on the north side of the forum:

not a hall-of-worship basilica, but a Roman basilica,

meaning a public hall for meetings and other kinds of activities.

meaning a public hall for meetings and other kinds of activities.

It consisted of a large, open-paved space.

And we're standing on some of the pavement right now.

NARRATOR: The remains of the site of Jesus's death have not disappeared:

NARRATOR: The remains of the site of Jesus's death have not disappeared:

they've been covered over by a place of Roman life and worship.

they've been covered over by a place of Roman life and worship.

Paradoxically, Hadrian's construction

even helped to protect them for two centuries.

TRANSLATOR: When the Roman Empire became Christian,

all Emperor Constantine had to do was dismantle Hadrian's temple.

- So Constantine tore down the temple to expose the rocky outcrop,

Golgotha, on which Jesus reportedly had been crucified,

Golgotha, on which Jesus reportedly had been crucified,

and to expose the rock-cut tomb into which Jesus's body had been laid.

NARRATOR: Constantine was the first

NARRATOR: Constantine was the first

to cover Christianity's most sacred treasure with a protective layer.

Over the following 1,700 years,

the builders transformed the Holy Sepulchre, layer by layer,

the builders transformed the Holy Sepulchre, layer by layer,

into something like a safe made of stone.

First layer: the dome.

Since 1968, its exterior has been made up of a steel frame

Since 1968, its exterior has been made up of a steel frame

covered in lead plates.

TRANSLATOR: The roof of the dome...

originally had an oculus that was open.

This clearly damaged everything underneath,

This clearly damaged everything underneath,

especially as water had seeped in,

which is why the oculus was later closed.

NARRATOR: From Constantine, through the Byzantine era,

to the crusaders,

the dome of the rotunda has changed shape

the dome of the rotunda has changed shape

but has always had an opening at the top called an oculus.

The opening provides light

and also reduces the lateral thrust of the dome

by distributing the force in a circular fashion.

by distributing the force in a circular fashion.

Under this dome, a second casing covers the tomb like a shell.

Under this dome, a second casing covers the tomb like a shell.

This structure, called the Edicule,

is a building in its own right inside this immense basilica.

Only 8m long, 5m wide and 5m high...

..the first small chapel leads to the tiny room

containing the tombstone beneath this slab of marble.

Yet this small monument, revered by billions of Christians,

is in a fragile state.

In 2016, Antonia Maropoulou,

an engineer specialising in ancient monuments,

an engineer specialising in ancient monuments,

arrived in Jerusalem to lead the remarkable renovation

of this small structure.

of this small structure.

- The Edicule was presenting serious deformations

because of the rainwater

because of the rainwater

falling from the open oculus of the dome for decades.

TRANSLATOR: What's more,

TRANSLATOR: What's more,

mass tourism creates more and more carbon dioxide.

Millions of people, all year round, breathing in and out,

Millions of people, all year round, breathing in and out,

also just coming in with their own body moisture.

This carbon dioxide attacks the mortar

This carbon dioxide attacks the mortar

that holds the stone together.

And there's a third important factor.

All day long, pilgrims walk past the building and light candles.

All day long, pilgrims walk past the building and light candles.

When the doors close in the evening,

all the candles are extinguished,

so the slabs go from hot to cold every day.

so the slabs go from hot to cold every day.

This distorts the joints between the stones,

and the whole thing becomes quite fragile.

and the whole thing becomes quite fragile.

- At the same time,

we had the problem of the declination

we had the problem of the declination

for more or less 7% to 8%...

from the vertical plane.

That means there was an acute danger for failure.

That means there was an acute danger for failure.

NARRATOR: Antonia Maropoulou and her team

NARRATOR: Antonia Maropoulou and her team

worked day and night for two years.

The Edicule was dismantled, stone by stone, the joints were redone,

The Edicule was dismantled, stone by stone, the joints were redone,

and liquid plaster injected into gaps in the structure

to strengthen it.

This work has also revealed how this superstructure has evolved

since the 4th century.

By scanning the Edicule,

Antonia Maropoulou's team was able

to see through the marble slabs covering it.

The scan has revealed several versions of the monument

from the 4th century onwards.

from the 4th century onwards.

Over hundreds of years,

builders have constructed on top of the previous remains

builders have constructed on top of the previous remains

leading to the current monument,

which dates from the Baroque period in 1810.

- We discovered the Constantinian era,

the later Byzantine era,

the crusaders era, the Renaissance era,

the crusaders era, the Renaissance era,

and of course, the Baroque era.

- (Beaulieu speaks French)

TRANSLATOR: It's like a set of layers of previous Ediculas.

TRANSLATOR: It's like a set of layers of previous Ediculas.

In these few square metres, history is piled on top of history,

and what's extraordinary is that when you do something new

and what's extraordinary is that when you do something new

in the 19th century, you don't destroy everything that went before.

NARRATOR: It's as if extra layers of protection had to be added

NARRATOR: It's as if extra layers of protection had to be added

to safeguard the treasure within the Edicule.

But inside, the key question is the state of Jesus's tomb.

We know that in the 4th century,

the funeral bench was made of the original rock of Jerusalem.

But what about today?

But what about today?

Using ground-penetrating radar,

Antonia's team has demonstrated that the tomb is still embedded

Antonia's team has demonstrated that the tomb is still embedded

in the rock of the quarry where it was dug.

To the north and south,

this original rock encloses the entire length of the funeral bench.

this original rock encloses the entire length of the funeral bench.

- This is the burial monument. And we revealed it.

- This is the burial monument. And we revealed it.

TRANSLATOR: When you enter this Edicula,

you really enter the tomb of Jesus: that's fundamental.

NARRATOR: During the 2016 works,

NARRATOR: During the 2016 works,

Antonia and her team reveal part of this cave to the world

by installing this window showing the south side of the rock.

by installing this window showing the south side of the rock.

But the researchers were able to get even closer to the tomb...

to do something of considerable historical

to do something of considerable historical

and scientific significance.

For the first time in 200 years,

they moved to one side the marble slab

on which thousands of pilgrims pay their respects every day.

on which thousands of pilgrims pay their respects every day.

- We didn't have in our plans to open the tomb,

but when we...

but when we...

removed the facing slabs,

we understood...

that if the grout would be inserted...

that if the grout would be inserted...

..it would be absorbed by the calcitic rock,

..it would be absorbed by the calcitic rock,

and that would be an irreversible damage to it.

So we opened the tomb, and we studied it.

So we opened the tomb, and we studied it.

TRANSLATOR: And what was there, under 15cm of rubble,

is the original rock carved out of the ground of Jerusalem.

is the original rock carved out of the ground of Jerusalem.

NARRATOR: But on the rocky bench

on which Jesus's body is said to have been laid,

the scientific team made an important new discovery...

the scientific team made an important new discovery...

about the exact composition of the tomb's protective layers.

TRANSLATOR: What she finds, which was unexpected,

is a slab of grey marble, a very pure marble,

which covers it, but only halfway.

which covers it, but only halfway.

The experts question who could have placed this marble slab

The experts question who could have placed this marble slab

on the funeral bench.

- We had to use the tools of high tech

- We had to use the tools of high tech

to study what was happening,

what was the morphology, the history of the materials:

what was the morphology, the history of the materials:

the construction of the tomb of Christ.

NARRATOR: To unravel the mystery of this slab of marble,

Antonia analysed the mortar that fixed it to the original rock,

using a technique that enables minerals

to be dated back 350,000 years.

to be dated back 350,000 years.

- The dating said it was in the middle of the 4th century.

- The dating said it was in the middle of the 4th century.

TRANSLATOR: That tells us that this marble was laid by Constantine,

or immediately after him, but in any case,

in the very early days of the basilica of the Holy Sepulchre.

in the very early days of the basilica of the Holy Sepulchre.

- It was a fundamental discovery.

NARRATOR: From the beginnings of the Holy Sepulchre's construction,

NARRATOR: From the beginnings of the Holy Sepulchre's construction,

the builders decided that the funerary stone of Jesus

needed to be fully protected

needed to be fully protected

and sealed it under a slab of marble.

The tomb has been sheltered for almost two millennia.

There is another threat, from deep below the surface,

which could seriously damage this superstructure

in the coming years:

the risk of earthquakes.

TRANSLATOR: We're on a major seismic fault.

There's an earthquake about every 100 years.

The last one was in 1927,

and we're expecting the next one in ten, fifteen or twenty years' time.

and we're expecting the next one in ten, fifteen or twenty years' time.

NARRATOR: Engineer Grazia Tucci has digitally tested

NARRATOR: Engineer Grazia Tucci has digitally tested

every structural element of the Holy Sepulchre...

with the seismic forces likely to strike it.

- (Tucci speaks Italian)

- (Tucci speaks Italian)

TRANSLATOR: Assessing the seismic risk

was the most important part of this work.

NARRATOR: Following this seismic vulnerability assessment,

major strengthening work was carried out.

major strengthening work was carried out.

But in the event of an earthquake,

there is, in the Holy Sepulchre,

a particularly critical spot.

a particularly critical spot.

And surprisingly, it's this concrete wall...

And surprisingly, it's this concrete wall...

built in 1989.

By connecting two pillars built in the Middle Ages,

this wall stiffens the entire load-bearing structure,

which can no longer move.

which can no longer move.

Seismic vibrations, which exert horizontal and vertical thrusts

on the structure, would no longer be absorbed.

on the structure, would no longer be absorbed.

TRANSLATOR: Even a slight movement could create misalignments

TRANSLATOR: Even a slight movement could create misalignments

in the arches above, leading to the collapse of the structure.

NARRATOR: So it is these modern additions which could,

paradoxically, jeopardise the entire basilica.

The wall was put up by the Greek Orthodox community,

The wall was put up by the Greek Orthodox community,

one of the six Christian communities

that occupy and manage the Holy Sepulchre,

to separate off their own place of worship.

The fact is that harmony between all the groups...

The fact is that harmony between all the groups...

Greek Orthodox...

Catholic...

..Armenian Apostolic,

..Armenian Apostolic,

Syrian Orthodox...

..Coptic...

and Ethiopian Orthodox... isn't easy.

and Ethiopian Orthodox... isn't easy.

Each community has its own chapels,

rites and procession times...

rites and procession times...

..all organised since the 18th century according to a strict rule:

..all organised since the 18th century according to a strict rule:

nothing changes without the unanimous agreement

of all the communities.

This rule makes the group of communities a very unusual one,

This rule makes the group of communities a very unusual one,

sometimes in conflict.

A ladder, placed on the facade of the Holy Sepulchre for 170 years,

A ladder, placed on the facade of the Holy Sepulchre for 170 years,

is a case in point.

- (speaks French)

TRANSLATOR: This ladder has been there for centuries,

TRANSLATOR: This ladder has been there for centuries,

and hasn't moved, because it marks the moment in the mid-19th century

when the Pasha of Jerusalem forbade any change in the basilica,

when the Pasha of Jerusalem forbade any change in the basilica,

however minor.

On its facade, up against a window,

belonging to the Armenian community, there was this wooden ladder.

belonging to the Armenian community, there was this wooden ladder.

And since then, there has had to be a wooden ladder on the facade.

NARRATOR: This pointless yet immovable ladder

is far from the only way to show the immense complexity

of the Holy Sepulchre.

of the Holy Sepulchre.

The tumultuous history of this unique place

is carved in every stone of the building,

a real patchwork of different styles and periods.

a real patchwork of different styles and periods.

For 1,700 years,

this amazing structure has withstood the test of time,

this amazing structure has withstood the test of time,

protecting the presumed tomb of Jesus Christ.

The Holy Sepulchre is an extraordinary testament

to the skill and genius of the builders of the Middle Ages,

as well as their Roman predecessors.

as well as their Roman predecessors.

- When you understand the importance

of the architectural structure, you preserve it better.

of the architectural structure, you preserve it better.

TRANSLATOR: What we can hope for is that it will last.

But whether it's there or not takes nothing away

from the mystery that played out there.

from the mystery that played out there.

NARRATOR: The Holy Sepulchre:

a superstructure serving the sacred.

a superstructure serving the sacred.

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