Original subtitles

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PETER MANEAS: In the first four series

of My Greek Odyssey,

we visited islands of the Saronic,

the Ionian, the Dodecanese,

the Western Cycladic

and the Northern Aegean.

In series five,

we're seeing the Southern

and central Cycladic,

islands you've never heard of like, Levitha, Anafi, Donoussa,

and ones you know well like Santorini

and the big one, Crete.

In this episode,

I'm headed to what's possibly

the most well known island in the Mediterranean, Santorini.

It's a destination that every visitor coming to Greece

wants to see.

And my plan is to show you

not only the cliched side of the island,

but also the stuff that a lot of people never explore.

It's a place of contrasts,

where the young and in love come to bask in the beauty,

while the inquisitive holiday makers delve into the history and culture.

Here, there's something for everyone,

which is why it's such a popular destination.

I've been several times and it never ceases to amaze me.

What you're looking at

is one of the most well known island approaches in the world.

We're steaming straight for the magnificent

and incredibly dramatic island of Thera,

better known as, Santorini.

It's a bucket list destination, and rightfully so.

The strip of white-walled houses and resorts

clinging to the cliff top are an iconic scene.

Anyone who Googles 'Greek holiday'

will see the countless images of this spectacular destination.

For those that know it well,

you might be thinking the sea looks empty.

Well, we've come during the shoulder season

outside of the chaos of high Summer

when these waters are full of cruise ships.

When I started this journey,

it was all about seeing and stepping foot

on every single Greek island.

And I wanted to focus on the smaller islands

because the big ones get a lot of tourism.

And they're probably a little bit tight

when it comes to being there

and having a really good relaxed time.

Santorini is one of those,

but come May and September,

I have some of my best memories in Greece, right here.

This massive Caldera,

it's the site of the biggest volcanic eruption

in history.

There's nothing like it anywhere else in the world.

For me, Santorini is probably my most romantic location

in the world. Not just from a human perspective,

but from the geography and the memories.

You come here,

those memories of the sunset,

the white houses, that Cycladic architecture,

that will never ever leave you.

And being here right now, I'm reliving them as we speak.

There's no other place on the planet

that comes anywhere close to resembling this amazing island,

with its rows of precariously, perched buildings

on the edge of one of nature's most colossal aged volcanoes.

Couples from all over the world have been coming here for decades

to celebrate their nuptials.

And it's easy to understand why,

there's a picture perfect photo

from almost any point on the caldera.

There's some good shopping in Santorini,

especially here in Thera.

But everybody does it at night and it's packed.

Come here when the sun's setting and there's nobody here.

They're all watching the sunset.

Helen's not with me at moment,

and I've only got a couple of days here.

So, I'm gonna hit the shops

and see if I can buy something and surprise her.

Helen and I aren't big collectors.

And we only have a few pieces up on the walls and shelves

of our family home.

Our pride and joy are the copies of Minoan frescoes

from Santorini's ancient city of Akrotiri.

Yes, you heard it right, copies.

Replicas can bring just as much joy as any original.

Sometimes, it's not about the rarity,

but more about the story that's behind the piece.

You know, Helen loves this sort of stuff.

The only problem is, when we buy something,

she likes to buy art

and things that we're gonna hang on the wall together.

So, I can't buy her any of this stuff,

but I'll have a look at it anyway.

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I don't know what to buy her.

Yeah.

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(SPEAKING IN FOREIGN LANGUAGE)

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I've just run into a shop that I used to come to

when I first came to Santorini

and I didn't realise it was still open.

You're the owner? Yeah.

I'm Elena, I'm the owner.

Elena. I'm Peter, Elena.

Hi. It was your grandfather that had it.

Yeah. And it's been here, how long?

From '50s.

From the '50s. Until '94, '93.

Yeah. Yeah.

And then? And then we rent.

Yeah. Two brothers...

Right. ..they retired.

Right. And you've taken it back on?

Yeah. From your grandfather, literally?

They were here 25 years.

Yeah. And I'm back now.

Right. The last two years.

And Elena, you still serve the same food that you did?

Greek traditional cuisine. Greek traditional.

What we find in the fresh market in the morning.

Yeah. And Greek dishes.

I can't believe it's still open.

I can't believe Elena, the restaurant is still here.

Third generation.

Yeah. Wow, unbelievable.

Come inside. I'm coming.

So, this is the daily stuff,

this is whatever is in the markets in the day.

Yeah.

(SPEAKING IN FOREIGN LANGUAGE)

Pork, spinach, rice, spanakorizo, moussaka.

Spanakorizo, I love.

Every day we make moussaka. Moussaka.

You have to make moussaka every day. Every day.

Come on. Every day.

Octopus on the grill.

I'm hungry, you're making me hungry now.

(LAUGHS)

Maybe we should have something to eat now,

maybe we don't go.

You're open now, aren't you? Yeah.

We open 12:00 until 11, 12. It depends.

It depends. (SPEAKS FOREIGN LANGUAGE)

Let's go.

OK. (SPEAKS FOREIGN LANGUAGE)

OK, we're ready.

(SPEAKS IN FOREIGN LANGUAGE)

Thank you, Elena. Thank you.

Now, I couldn't wait.

And Kyriako' s already cooked for me

so if he finds out that I've eaten,

I think he'll be very upset.

But I'm at Nikolas's cafe, tavern.

Come on, come on, look at this.

Moussaka.

Man, it hasn't changed.

It's so good.

And a bit of bread.

And I'm on a keto diet but who cares?

Look at this stuff, man.

This is so good.

This, ah, look at that.

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Mm.

You don't know what you're missing out on.

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It's so good.

Mm.

(SPEAKS FOREIGN LANGUAGE)

Sorry, Kiriako.

Oh, that's good.

Oh, Moussaka. Look at that.

Mm.

And that's traditional.

That's so good.

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Depending on how you look at it,

Santorini is shaped like a mirror

reverse of the letter 'C.'

It's in fact, half the rim

of an almost extinct volcano.

Lying in the sea

at the center of this Caldera,

is an island known as Nea Kameni,

loosely translated as latest eruption.

The long haul up.

Joining me on the hike and being my teacher for the day

was Evie, a local geology professor.

She's one of the few people I've met with as much enthusiasm as me.

So, Evie, you were born in Santorini?

Yes. I was born here.

And you decided to study geology

and volcanic stuff,

is that because of your birthplace?

I was inspired for the volcano, you see?

Well, there you go, there you go.

I was born and I was looking the volcano.

Yeah. For the whole of my life.

So, you did your degree, you're now a professor

and you teach as well.

Yes, of course.

I have many students and I'm teaching geology.

Wow.

There's a lot of different coloured rocks here,

but basically, the majority of it is black

and it's a volcanic rock, obviously.

Yeah. All of them are volcanic rocks

and all of them are dacites. Dacite.

Even the red is dacite? Yes. Yes.

Different composition of metals, nothing more,

and you cannot see pumice.

No pumice? Pumice in Nea Kameni.

The pumice is up on the caldera? In Santorini.

Back in Santorini. Right, OK.

Yes. Of course.

So, this looks different to that over there.

So, what are we standing on,

and what is over there at the moment?

So, you are right? Yeah.

You can see the difference. OK.

We are standing in a volcanic dome of 1570.

Right. OK.

And over there, these are volcanic rocks

of the eruption from 1925. Right.

So, you can see the difference due to the vegetation, OK?

Volcanic dome... Yep.

..of 1570. Yep.

And then volcanic eruption of 1925.

So, this was the first bit that came up?

Exactly. And it's only a small portion.

What? How much of the island is that?

Approximately one/eight of the whole surface of the island.

And then this baby came along and spilled out.

You could see it spilling.

Yeah. Can you see the lava flows?

Yeah. OK.

So, both of these lava flows

are from the eruption of 1925 up to 1928.

Right.

So, you had the eruption for three years.

Right. OK.

But now we are studying this volcanic dome

of 1570 up to 1573.

OK. Well, we need to get to the top so we can see the whole caldera.

Can we go up? Yes, of course.

Let's go. Let's go.

This is just like any pleasant uphill walk

with the key difference being,

that this mountain wasn't here 400 years ago.

In fact, parts of it only came out of the sea

a century back.

So, there's not much living up here.

One thing to note is that the lack of trees

and black rocks make it pretty hot,

so the earlier you can come, the better.

Have you had earthquakes that you've been here for?

We had lots of earthquakes within the caldera in 2011, 2012.

Right.

When we believed that, "OK, something is happening today."

Right. Is there a chance of another explosion?

Of course. This is a very active volcano.

But you can get a warning, you've got enough instruments here?

Yes. Yes.

We are going to have lots of warnings.

Lots of warnings. So, it's safe for people to come...

It's very, very safe. ..to Santorini?

We have lots of instruments within the volcano.

Right. Like seismographs, GPS.

This way? Yes, this is the way.

GPS as well? Yes, of course.

Wow. Of course.

Imagine living in Santorini and seeing this smoking island,

just a stones throw away.

You'd be thinking the next big eruption

could happen any time.

1570?

No, no, no.

This is 1925 still. This is 1925.

No.

That was only the 1570 eruption. OK.

Over here you can see? 1570.

The crater also. Right.

OK? 1570.

So, here's 1925 and we will see the crater, Daphne.

Right. OK? Let's go.

You need to understand the Nea Kameni

is combined by different volcanic domes.

Different volcanic islands that have been erupting

during the time. OK.

So, there's not only one volcanic center.

So, which years have we got. What years have we got?

OK. We had 1570.

Yep. 1925 up to 1928.

Yeah. OK, here Daphne.

Three years? Yes.

Yeah. You have 1707 up there.

And we will go to the crater of 1866.

The major eruption of Nea Kameni.

Right. And the biggest crater.

Right. OK? Let's go and see that.

Normally, when you're exploring

something on the geological timeline,

you're talking about periods that span millions of years.

Here it's recent history.

Potentially in hundreds of years from now,

this little island that's still smouldering

beneath the surface,

will possibly be lush and green with people living on it.

But then again,

maybe there will be another eruption,

and a new crater will form.

OK.

Peter, this is the major crater.

OK. This crater, the name is George.

George. OK.

Due to the king of Greece.

I thought they named it after my son.

Of course.

OK. And this came from the eruption of 1866.

That was the biggest eruption.

The biggest eruption of the volcano?

Of the Volcano. Right.

Yes, of course. And it lasted for four years.

So, where are we located?

Now, we are at the center of Nea Kameni,

but let me show you to the map, OK? OK.

Thank you. That'd be great. OK, so. OK.

Oh, yours is like George from Nisyros.

This one's a beaut. Oh, wow.

Now you may understand why Santorini we name as Strongyli.

Right. Strongyli means around.

Right. That's the Greek name,

'cause Santorini is the Venetian name.

BOTH: That's Saint Irene.

It's Saint Irene, right, OK.

But for us, for the geologist.

Yep.

The name took from Strongyli, that means around.

So, Oia? Oia, Thirasia.

Thera. Yes, of course.

This is the caldera of Santorini.

The most active caldera of the world

with a dimension of almost 11km North to South.

Sorry, did you say the most active caldera of the world?

Yes, of course.

The most active caldera of the world.

Wow. Wow. OK. So, the deepest part is 390.

Right. OK?

This is Nea Kameni.

We are standing just in the middle of Nea Kameni.

This is the eruption of 1866.

Right. OK.

And this is the main crater here.

Now, we've got gases coming up here. Yes.

Does that mean it's gonna erupt soon or what? No.

No, don't worry. It's OK.

We've got plenty of warnings. A lot of warnings.

A lot. So, what is this gas here?

It's a sulphur CO2. Sulphur...

Sulphur dioxide, right. Dioxide, yes.

You can't go and sniff that, can you?

No, no, no, no. It is forbidden. It'll kill you, right, OK.

It is forbidden. Right, OK.

The temperature there is almost 100 Celsius.

Well, you know what?

I wanna go and see the rim of the caldera.

We've been talking about that so much.

I wanna get a close up of the rim.

We need to go to the top. Are you excited?

You bet ya, I'm excited.

What are you talking about, this is awesome stuff.

OK. Let's go.

Let's go.

For millions of years.

This entire region has been alive with volcanic activity.

Eruption after eruption has formed most,

if not all the islands of the Cyclades.

It has also directly influenced human civilisation.

There are theories that the massive Thera eruption

of 3,600 years ago,

may have directly led to the demise of the Minoans.

That same event and the resulting damage it caused

via ash fall and tsunamis

is suggested to have inspired

the legend of the lost city of Atlantis.

Later, I'll show you the exact place

that they think Plato may have drawn his inspiration from.

So, yeah, these are equipment. So, don't touch them, OK?

They are very, very sensitive.

OK? So, that's the monitoring equipment.

Of course. Right, OK.

I told you, you are safe here. Right, OK.

You're safe.

Alright.

Yeah. Don't touch them.

So, if I push this, they'll evacuate the island.

No, no, no, no, no. Don't do that.

OK. Righto. OK.

You need to be extra careful. Right. No worries.

Let's go to the top. OK.

It's a quick boat trip across from the main island.

So, many tourists visit daily.

An added attraction is that you can follow the hike up

with a soothing soak in the heated mineral rich waters.

It's an extra reward for the effort of the long walk.

Mind you, hot water on a hot day, probably isn't that refreshing.

See.

Wow, you can see everything from here.

Yes. You can see everything from here.

Amazing view. Look.

Look, (SPEAKS GREEK). Look.

So, what is that down there,

what is that rock formation down there?

OK. So, this is Palea Kameni.

Right. These are the oldest rocks.

This is Palea Kameni, this is Nea Kameni, OK.

Here you are at the top and you are within the caldera

and you can see the round shape...

Right. ..of the caldera. OK?

So, you are the master of the universe.

Wow. This is an active volcano, OK?

You love what you do, don't you? Of course.

Hey, you're my second volcanologist.

I love the volcanologist, I love them all.

They're fantastic.

They're the most exciting people.

Thank you so much. Give me a hug.

I need a hug. I need a hug.

That's a Kyriako hug, hey? That was awesome.

I love this trip.

It's fantastic. Look at it.

Look at it. It's just so majestic.

This is essentially where life begins.

What's a barren, hot, exposed, rocky formation

in the middle of the sea,

eventually cools and attracts bird life.

From there, seeds are dropped

and other organic matter washes ashore.

Eventually, the ground becomes fertile enough

for those seeds to germinate,

and the once inhospitable landmass becomes a living, breathing island.

It's amazing to walk on the foundations of life.

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The caldera arises 350 meters

to the villages here in Santorini.

And there are a number of villages and a number of ways to get up.

One is through Ammoudiou, driving up.

Another way is from the new port driving up.

But to get to these beautiful white villages,

those picturesque ones you see,

you can only get up by donkey,

walk up these windy stairs.

And there's a few people down there going up now.

Or with the cable car,

and I think that's probably the best way.

I'm gonna go and check out the donkeys now,

and I might get on.

I've been on them before, but when you get on, you lose...

I'm gonna lose all my hair here

and I don't wanna lose any of that hair, so...

..I'll think about it. I'll think about it.

The producer behind the camera right now wants me to do it,

but I'm thinking twice.

Anyway, it's a beautiful view. Check it out.

It's worth coming down.

Let alone going up, check it out.

Someone's always got a bigger boat than you have.

Look at these guys walking up.

Took his shirt off. Good day.

How are you, mate? You're crazy.

Yeah, you're nuts, I know.

Funny thing is, I actually walked up this morning

as my exercise from Oia.

I thought I'd run up. I ran up about 10% of the way.

I used to be able to run up all the way when I was a young man.

The construction of the cable car

was funded by local shipping magnate,

Evangelos Nomikos.

It was built at the beginning of the 1980s,

and in the years since has taken millions of people

from sea level,

all the way up to the top of the 220m high walls

of the caldera.

It made the island far more accessible

for the masses of tourists that started pouring into Santorini

from the late 1970s.

I suffer from claustrophobia,

so I'm glad to get out.

Up until a few decades ago.

The old harbour of Thera

was Santorini's main commercial port.

It's now used primarily

to support the hundreds of thousands of tourists who arrive by sea.

At the height of the season,

the waters around it are packed with cruise ships

and the place is abuzz

with the ferrying of people back and forth.

The seasonal cruise ship economy,

supports many islands tourism operators,

because believe it or not, for half of the year,

Santorini is actually really quiet.

And for me, the shoulder season is the best time to visit,

because you get to appreciate the beauty of the place

with few people blocking the views.

(DONKEY BRAYING)

I'm 35 years,

25 years I work here.

Yeah. Alright, OK.

And did your father do this as well?

Yeah. Grandfather and father, and me now.

Wow. So long.

How many mules are there doing this job?

300, one day. In one day.

And how many mules are there on the island, all up?

Four or 5,000.

Oh, so you turn them around. They're not...

Of course. ..the mules don't do it every time?

Of course. One day, is come I'm seven donkey here.

Yep. A mule.

And the other day, another seven.

Right.

'Cause they look like they're in good condition.

Of course. This is the livelihood...

..your livelihood, isn't it? My mule, my daughter.

Yeah. All the family.

They're part of the family, aren't they?

Of course. I see the closeness

that you people have with your mules.

I think it's a wonderful thing.

And how clean you keep them and how well nourished they are.

They're well fed. You feed them well and it's clean.

It's a wonderful thing.

A few of the other mule drivers watched on while we were filming.

We actually asked them for an interview,

but they were reluctant to talk to us.

The reason being, they get a bad rap for animal cruelty

from various media and even tourists.

What we have to understand is that this is their livelihood

and it's a practise steeped in history.

Spend some time with them,

and you'll realise

that these animals are loved by their owners

and treated like family.

How long does it take to take the mule to the top?

Ten, much 15 minutes.

Ten, 15 minutes. And it's a good ride,

you see a lot when you go up, don't you?

Yes, of course.

How many stairs are there all the way upstairs?

600.

600 stairs.

What's her name? Arapina.

I don't think Arapina could take my weight.

Can Arapina take my weight?

Yeah, you think so? Yeah.

You sure? Sure.

Nah. Arapina, I'm not gonna do it to you, darling.

Why would I do that to this poor thing, you know?

Beautiful.

I love the sound and she's well dressed.

I love all this.

Beautiful, isn't it? Of course.

Yes.

I need the exercise, I'm walking up.

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He gave me a head start.

I think he's gonna pass me

and we haven't even gone a third of the way up.

(SPEAKING IN FOREIGN LANGUAGE)

(SPEAKING IN FOREIGN LANGUAGE)

(BELL JINGLING)

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I'm not gonna win, man. There's no chance.

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In the modern era, these beasts of burden

are still used as labour,

in the mountain villages

and narrow streets of hillside towns.

As much as we all would like to assume

that people can just move on

and find machines to carry the tourists,

building materials and other supplies

up and down the slopes.

The reality isn't so simple.

I know there will be viewers out there

that will complain

about us showing these animals on TV.

We experienced similar when filming in Hydra.

But hopefully, you can look

beyond the initial knee jerk reaction

of assuming the mules are being treated poorly

and see that they're actually in incredible health

and given the best of care.

I think I'll use the cable car.

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Greece is a treasure trove of history

and there are three distinct periods.

Each period has its pinnacle place in my opinion.

Of course, there's the Acropolis and that is ancient Greece.

There's Mount Athos and that is the Byzantine era.

And for me, there is prehistory and that is here at Akrotiri.

And when we talk about prehistory, people think prehistoric.

They think Cro-Magnon man and ape man.

But it's more than that.

It means before the written word.

Before written history.

And here, there's more than just Cro-Magnon man,

this is a whole community.

Buildings that have survived.

It's a great place. I've been here three times.

I love it! I'm jumping out of my skin.

(AMBIENT MUSIC)

This bronze age settlement

is suggested to have been the inspiration

for Plato's story of Atlantis.

It's the city that disappeared from the face of the earth...

..until now.

Wow!

I'm still blown away by coming here.

Lefteris, it's awesome.

Welcome to the archaeological site of Akrotiri.

One of the most important archaeological sites

in the Mediterranean.

A unique harbour at its time,

that was destroyed at its peak 3,600 years ago.

The preservation is incredible of this harbour town

that was at the center of the South Aegean.

What makes it unique is both the location,

but also the preservation

of these three or four story high buildings

that are actually preserved today due to the cataclysmic eruption

that covered the entire island in volcanic ash.

And then preserved it

for the excavation to take place by the archaeologist,

and this is preserved until today.

So, you have three or four story high buildings

with frescos inside them.

Wow. Three and four stories high.

Oh, can we go and have a look at those buildings?

Absolutely. Let's go.

Let's go.

Three and four stories, I can't get over that.

There's nothing like that anywhere else in the Aegean.

Exactly, exactly.

Such was the volume of ash

and the speed at which it fell from the sky

that the entire settlement was buried

with many everyday items left in place.

The people had fled,

heading to other islands for safety and to establish new lives.

What remained was enveloped by the pyroclastic cloud

and all the matter it carried with it.

It created a time capsule,

preserving the buildings and everything inside them

for thousands of years.

This ancient history is a side of Santorini

that adds so much more depth to a holiday here.

It's an island with way more to it than just shopping and sunsets.

Wow, we're seeing some real depth here, aren't we?

What are we looking at? This is the facade, right?

Exactly. So, we have the first and second phase of the eruption

that has literally covered the facade,

but also the entire building before it was excavated.

And then what's incredible,

is that the facade goes all the way down to the street level.

Wow.

So, we have over maybe 8m of a building,

an actual public building. So, it goes from there to there.

That's four stories. But even higher also,

'cause we're missing the upper floor, remember.

And that's all pyroclastic product that's embedded in there?

It's actually pumice and volcanic ash

that has trapped everything and preserved it in place.

So, if we cut that away and take that out,

you'll see that facade going all the way down to there?

Exactly. That's street level?

Exactly. That's street level right there.

That's so impressive, mate.

I just can't get over it. Four story buildings. Wow.

I wanna keep going

'cause we don't have a lot of time, mate.

We haven't got all day.

Absolutely. But I'm loving this.

I could do it all day. Absolutely.

This building over here. It's impressive.

I mean, it's just so big. How many buildings are here?

About 36 have been discovered like around the site,

but only like one or two have actually been fully excavated

so it's quite incredible. Wow.

This was an actual stream

and this is where actually

the modern stream was passing through here.

Right. And went through

and then on this side

is where you actually had the street with the sewer system below it.

Right.

So, this is one of the few open areas

that we have an actual square.

Now, very famously known as the Triangle Square.

And what's in front of it

is actually a really well known ship owner's house.

Known as the West House.

Where you have the architecturally characteristic.

You have the doorway, the window and then, soon as you go inside,

you have a stairway that actually is preserved today.

And then to the left,

you would have storage rooms and kitchens,

and then the upper floor would be the living quarters

where you had living areas

and adorned by these incredible frescos

that are still preserved. Wow.

So, this is the house with the toilet in it?

Exactly. We've got to go and do that.

Let's go and see it.

And you can see the big window here, how grand, elaborate it is.

Yeah. Amazing.

I've spent over 40 years in and around building sites

and I still find it fascinating

to see the techniques used in construction

so many centuries ago.

Many of the basic principles employed here

are still in use today.

What's most impressive though, is the second floor toilet

piped to an intricate sewer network.

These people were well ahead of their time.

I don't get it, the toilet is on the top floor.

It's difficult to comprehend now, I mean, the way it seems now,

but you have to imagine there was a small room right there

that's enclosed.

And at the higher level, there was a toilet

with an intricate piping system

connected to an actual central network

going outside of the building.

So, that's one of the incredible things

about the West House.

Along with all the architectural features,

as well as the important frescos that were found here.

So, Lefteris, big windows,

biggest house, toilets, frescos.

This captain was wealthy,

this all goes to prove

that this town was all about trading,

is that right? Absolutely. Absolutely.

We can see this as a characteristic example

of a wealthy ship merchant that wants to show

that he has the elaborate large windows,

the fresco.

So ,this is part of the society

and the wealth can be seen at this building for sure.

Wow.

A town that would've taken many years to build

was buried in a matter of days.

A once bustling settlement, wiped from existence.

It's a testament to the power of mother nature.

Lefteris, this looks like a big complex,

what are we looking at here?

Well, this is particularly interesting

on several levels.

This was one of the first areas excavated in 1967.

So, this is a very large storage room.

What's incredible about it

is that every single jar, every single pithos that you can see

is actually in the place, in situ exactly where it was found.

The ones on our left have never been moved

and everything else has been taken to the laboratories

and actually preserved and put back into one piece

and then placed exactly where it was found.

I love Akrotiri

because we're talking 3,600 years ago

and they talk about that eruption

as if the eruption destroyed the Minoans.

That's not the case is it?

It's not the case.

I mean, rom what we're seeing from the evidence

it's actually happened later on. Yep.

So, it's chronologically later,

but it was certainly an important event

that affected the entire Aegean.

And not only just the Aegean, but also the Eastern Mediterranean.

Yeah. Because it was so devastating.

This is, we're frozen in time.

Exactly. Exactly. This is a moment captured in time

with very, very important evidence kind of preserved in place.

I've got to tell you Lefteris,

those creative juices that you've got going in me

at the moment.

I've got these hunger pains, mate.

And I wanna go to the museum

and see all those beautiful frescos that have come out of here,

especially the fishermen out of that West House.

But I'm gonna go and have something to eat

and I know there's a great Tavern around here.

Is it the Nikolas Cave? Exactly, yeah.

I'm going, I've got to go now.

Enjoy. (SPEAKS IN FOREIGN LANGUAGE)

Let's go, mate.

The people of Akrotiri

were clearly an advanced and cultured community.

It was a thriving civilisation that embraced art

and other indulgences,

with clear signs of their prosperity.

From stunning frescos and elaborately decorated pottery,

to statues and stone carvings.

The museum has a vast collection of materials

that puts a tangible human element to the ruins.

It makes you wonder what became of the people

who once lived in this affluent town.

(INSTRUMENTAL MUSIC)

(INSTRUMENTAL MUSIC)

Not far from the buried town is Akrotiri Beach.

Along its rocky shore is a small cliff face,

dotted with restaurants built into the caves.

These were once basic shelters used by fishermen.

However, when the nearby excavation started,

one entrepreneurial local saw an opportunity.

The workmen needed to be fed,

and one of the fisherman's wives, Aunt Efstathia as she was known,

was quite the highly regarded cook.

So, the humble cave that her fisherman husband,

Uncle Nikolas had built, was turned into a restaurant.

It's now an iconic part of Santorini.

Running the cave of Nikola's restaurant today

is Efstathia's grandson, Minas.

He's known for his moussaka,

and he uses white aubergines,

which actually originated from Santorini.

Here he is, here he is, here he is.

Minas, how are you?

Fine. You? (SPEAKS IN FOREIGN LANGUAGE)

Tell me about it...

..tell me about...

..this is a family business, isn't it?

Yeah, it's a... How many generations?

..54 years old.

I am the third generation.

My grandfather start this beautiful restaurant.

Yeah. And I keep.

And all the tomatoes are your tomatoes, aren't they?

Yeah. Everything is from my farm.

The aubergines are your aubergines?

The meat is your meat? Is that right?

Yeah. It's fantastic.

And you do a special Moussaka,

it's not like anybody else's moussaka.

You put some cheese on there. Yeah.

To be honest with you, I don't wanna talk to anymore,

I want to eat it, you know? OK.

I love it so much.

I send some moussaka, I make one vegetarian moussaka.

You do? Yeah.

Well, I'm not a vegetarian.

Maybe Helen is, but not me.

The plan for this plate before many, many years,

in Santorini it's not possible to keep in the fridge, the meat,

all that.

So, my grandmother is cook just vegetables.

Oh, right. And I make different styling.

Yeah? With our cheese, the tomato,

peppers, zucchini, the white eggplant.

Because it's amazing with the white eggplant.

Oh.

This is the first time someone else has talked more than me

'cause I love the food so much.

I love the bread, I love the local breads.

It's yellow. That's it.

It's the best, mate.

You're the best, buddy.

Thank you very much. Thank you so much.

Enjoy your meal. I will, mate.

Thank you. Thank you, buddy.

Oh, man. It's just so good.

Oh.

Oh.

This is too good.

If it's not number one,

Santorini is most definitely in the top two or three

most popular destinations in Greece.

And you'd think that it would be difficult

to enjoy an authentic, traditional experience.

But Minas' sumptuous paddock to plate taverna

is diametrically opposed to what you normally experience

in such a tourist mecca.

There's no forced cliches or gimmicks

to appease holiday makers.

This is the real deal.

And if you're lucky,

Minas might even pull out the bouzouki and play a tune or two.

(SINGING IN FOREIGN LANGUAGE)

The humble origins of the cave of Nicholas restaurant

are still at the core of what you experience today.

It remains a community spirited establishment

run by a loving family that appreciates its customers

and aspires to provide them

with the sort of hospitality you normally only come across

in the small villages, away from the tourist hoards.

The food is impeccable and the backdrop stunning.

And on this occasion,

we had the sounds of traditional music

floating through the air,

alongside the amazing aromas emanating from the kitchen

and the fresh sea breeze.

(SINGING IN FOREIGN LANGUAGE)

Akrotiri beach isn't the only place where caves were used as dwellings.

All along the cliffs of Santorini,

they constructed homes, churches,

and other buildings in the hollows

that were carved by the wind and rain.

It was where the poor fishermen and crews would reside

while the wealthier merchants and ship owners

lived on the flatter terrain at the top.

Today, they've been transformed into luxurious hotels and resorts,

which are a complete contrast to their modest beginnings.

Over the years, I've stayed in quite a few of them

and really enjoy the experience.

You know, walking down these stairs brings back a lot of memories.

Not just of the exercise, but getting lost.

'Cause there's stairs all over Thera and Oia.

This is what it's about, getting to the hotel rooms.

I was on my way to meet Sandrine,

a third generation owner of this beautiful hotel.

Her mother is German and her father Greek.

And she grew up in Germany,

but like a lot of people, fell in love with Santorini

and now calls it home.

If your office has views like these,

then it's understandable why you'd never leave.

The hard part would be getting any actual work done.

Santorini, especially Oia and Thera

are very unique in the way the housing style,

into the cliff.

I mean, tell us a little bit about that, you know,

and how it evolved?

Well, it all started,

they wanted to build the houses very on the top of the cliff,

because back then there were the pirates in the sea.

So, they wanted to be protected.

Most of the houses were houses of fishermen

and some they used for their own houses,

the proper living.

Others, they had their donkeys, so they used them as stables,

or as wineries where they produced wine actually

and stored their wines. Yeah.

And they kept everything round, shaded, to collect water.

Right.

It was the only way for them to collect water.

'Cause there's no water, is there? Exactly. The rain is very...

So, that explains the curved roofs, right?

The Kamara. ..yeah. Yeah.

Everything into water tanks.

And they're like in caves.

They're cave dwellings literally, aren't they?

Exactly. It was the only way they could build back then.

It was the cheapest,

the easiest way for them moving forward.

So, it sounds like there's a fourth generation

coming as well. Yes.

Yeah? Yeah.

And you're gonna run a hotel,

starting a family, new business, literally for you.

Yeah.

It's a lot to look forward to, isn't it?

Yeah. But it's fun. It's fun.

Hey, it's fantastic, I mean, you look so relaxed.

Yeah.

How couldn't you look relaxed in Santorini.

Hey? With this view.

With this view, it's fantastic, isn't it?

Yeah.

I think I might go for a dip in the pool.

Yeah. You should.

I'm gonna go for a dip in the pool

and bring back some memories. Yeah.

Life's full of challenges and experiences

that create the ups and downs of your journey.

This is one of those high points.

I can honestly tell you that for me,

it doesn't get much better than this.

The only thing missing from this scene

that would make it even more perfect is my wife, Helen.

But now I have an excuse to come back,

so I can share this with her.

(UPBEAT MUSIC)

(INSTRUMENTAL MUSIC)

The clifftop villages are Thera, Firostefani and Oia

are all wonderful for a morning or late afternoon walk.

That's the time of day when it's not too hot

and the light's magic.

It's the fitting end to a day spent basking in the sun

at one of the beaches.

Just make sure you pack some sunglasses

because all those white walls are murder for the eyes.

One of the local celebrities you might come across on your walk

is Soutiri.

Oh, look at that, look at that.

He does re-enactments of the Greek revolution

complete with all the costuming and theatre of a passionate actor.

If you find your way here,

one thing you'll notice

is that the tourists who visit Santorini

are typically the better dressed types.

For some reason, you'll feel compelled

to embrace the glamour of the place and have a bit more style

than you would on one of the sleepy islands.

I think everyone that visits Santorini

operates on the same schedule.

You spend the morning having a leisurely stroll,

followed by an even more casual breakfast.

Next, there's another slow walk to look at a couple of shops.

From there, it's off to the beach

where the hours are spent on a deck chair

or wading in the water.

The only time the sand isn't beneath you

is when you visit a seaside taverna for lunch.

Late in the day, it's back to the hotel

to freshen up,

before heading out for yet another saunter

to find a place

to either have a few drinks prior to dinner,

or take in one of the most famous sunsets

in the world.

While the locals and their mules get some rest in the shade,

tourists are headed down to the Oia Port,

it's where you'll find a strip

with some of the best seafood restaurants on the island.

In the Summer months, this place is buzzing all day

and getting one of the good tables can be tough.

The dining is really only part of the attraction.

It's the waterside location that you come here for.

The views are on par with the best in the Aegean

however, if you're a fan of fresh seafood,

then you'll be in heaven.

There's all sorts of tasty stuff on the menu,

from shellfish and tiny little white bait

to monsters of the deep, like this thing.

(BACKGROUND MUSIC)

Back up top and as the sun starts setting,

the activity on the streets only increases.

Now's the time

people start heading for the best spots

to take in the last of the day's sunshine.

The light softens

and the harsh white walls

start to take on a slightly orange hue.

It's a moody and very pretty time of day.

A calmness takes over the town

as people become mesmerised by the distant orange ball,

gradually making its way to the horizon.

It brings out the romantic in even the toughest of people.

There's no better place to be in Santorini when the sun's setting,

than here in Thera,

on a balcony, having a coffee, a water,

or something to eat for that matter.

Before you know it, these balconies will be full.

Mm.

The romance of Santorini

is one of the main reasons it's such a popular destination.

As much as the island is a place for lovers,

of history and culture,

it's also a place for the starry eyed.

Young or old, there's an intoxicating aura

that rises as the sun sets.

Every vantage point with a view of the sea

is occupied by couples,

be it a balcony, walkway, or restaurant table.

If they're not adoring the vista,

they're looking longingly at each other.

Each afternoon, just before the sun sets,

everybody on the island migrates to this part of Santorini.

Either Oia, or over behind us at Thera.

And the cameras come out

and they'll just take a photo of the sun as it's coming down.

A lot of selfies happening here right now.

And you'll see people gathering over there right now.

(INSTRUMENTAL MUSIC)

(INSTRUMENTAL MUSIC CONTINUES)

I thought I was gonna get in there, but that's OK.

No, you're no, no. You take your shots.

You take it. No, please. You take your shots.

MAN: Oh, yeah, yeah, yeah.

No, I'll take your shots of both of you.

Let me take the shots of both of you. Come on.

Give her a kiss mate, mate give her a kiss.

That's it. Oh, awesome.

What a perfect way to end the day.

This is the iconic view

that has captured the hearts and minds of people for centuries.

Next episode,

I'm finishing up my time in Santorini

with a cruise around the coastal cliffs,

as well as a visit to an ancient settlement

that was colonised by Dorians from Sparta.

I'll also be taking a trip to a unique winery,

making a delicious local drop.

From there,

I'm heading across to the tiny island of Therasia.

Captioned by Ai-Media ai-media.tv