All language subtitles for How.Its.Made.S13E05.Music.Boxes.and.Pepper.Mills.1080p.AMZN.WEB-DL.DDP2.0.H.264-SLAG_track4_[eng]

Narrator:
IN THE WORLD OF PLUMBING,
IT'S ALL ABOUT CONNECTIONS.

AND WE'RE TALKING ABOUT ELBOWS,
T's, AND OTHER FITTINGS.

FITTINGS
HOLD EVERYTHING TOGETHER.

THEY'RE ALSO USED
TO REROUTE PIPES

AND CONTROL
THE FLOW OF LIQUIDS.

WITHOUT THEM, THINGS JUST
WOULDN'T FLOW AS THEY SHOULD.

WITH SO MANY SHAPES AND SIZES
TO CHOOSE FROM,

TODAY'S PIPE FITTINGS LITERALLY
HAVE ALL THE ANGLES COVERED.

THEY START
WITH SHEETS OF COPPER.

THIS COPPER HAS BEEN REFINED
UNTIL IT'S 99.99% PURE.

THEY LOAD THE SHEETS
INTO A FURNACE

THAT'S FIRED AT JUST OVER
1,800 DEGREES FAHRENHEIT.

THE COPPER MELTS
INTO A PIPING HOT SOUP

AND THEN FLOWS
INTO A SECOND FURNACE.

THIS ONE HAS CYLINDRICAL MOLDS

WHICH DRAW THE LIQUID COPPER UP
AND COOL IT

AS THEY SHAPE IT
INTO SOLID COPPER RODS.

THESE RODS ARE FLEXIBLE ENOUGH
TO WIND THROUGH ROLLERS

AS THEY TRAVEL
TOWARDS A BIG SPINDLE.

THEY SPIRAL AROUND THE SPINDLE,

ACCUMULATING IN BIG COILS
TO AWAIT THE NEXT STEP.

THIS DEVICE UNCOILS THE COPPER

AND CHOPS IT INTO LITTLE PUCKS
ABOUT THE DIAMETER OF A QUARTER.

INCREDIBLY,
EACH ONE OF THESE PUCKS

WILL BE USED
TO MAKE A PLUMBING FITTING.

THIS TOOL PUSHES THE COPPER PUCK
INTO A CYLINDRICAL DIE

TO SHAPE IT INTO TUBING.

IN THIS ONE SWIFT ACTION,
A LITTLE COPPER PUCK

IS TRANSFORMED INTO
A MUCH LONGER PIECE OF PIPE.

THIS COPPER HAS BEEN RESHAPED
AS EASILY AS A PIECE OF PUTTY.

ONE END IS CLOSED,
BUT IT'S JUST TEMPORARY.

AT THE NEXT STATION, EQUIPMENT
BENDS THE TUBING AROUND FORMS

TO GIVE IT AN ELBOW SHAPE.

AT THE SAME TIME, A BLADE CUTS
THE CLOSED END TO OPEN IT UP.

NEXT, THESE ELBOWS
WILL GET SOME FINE-TUNING.

A 2-PART DEVICE COMES TOGETHER
TO STEADY THEM

AS TOOLS
STRETCH THE INTERNAL DIAMETER

SO THE PART
WILL FIT ON OTHER PIPES.

A SPINNING CUTTER THEN CARVES
BEVELS ONTO THE RIMS.

THIS BEVELED EDGE WILL ALLOW IT
TO SLIDE MORE EASILY

ONTO OTHER PIPES
DURING INSTALLATION.

OVER AT THE NEXT FURNACE,

THEY'RE WORKING
ON A LARGER-SCALE PROJECT.

THIS MOLTEN COPPER WILL BE USED
TO MAKE FITTINGS FOR HIGH-RISES

AND OTHER BUILDINGS
WITH BIGGER PLUMBING SYSTEMS.

THE COPPER FLOWS
INTO A CASTING FURNACE.

IT GENERATES COPPER RODS

THAT ARE ABOUT THE SIZE
OF A TELEPHONE POLE.

EACH ONE WEIGHS ABOUT A TON,

SO IT TAKES A CRANE TO MOVE IT
DOWN THE PRODUCTION LINE.

A CIRCULAR SAW
THEN CARVES THEM UP,

PRODUCING COPPER CHUNKS
THAT LOOK A BIT LIKE FIREWOOD.

THEY HEAT EACH CHUNK IN A
FURNACE TO MAKE IT MORE PLIABLE.

THEN IT'S INTO AN EXTRUDER.

IT USES
TONS OF HYDRAULIC PRESSURE

TO HOLLOW OUT THE COPPER LOG.

AT THE SAME TIME,
IT FORCES THE COPPER INTO A DIE

THAT STRETCHES IT
12 TIMES ITS ORIGINAL LENGTH

AND SLIMS IT DOWN CONSIDERABLY.

THE LENGTHY TUBING
COOLS DOWN IN A MILKY BATH.

THEN A CRANE
MOVES IT DOWN THE LINE

TO EQUIPMENT THAT ADJUSTS
THE DIAMETER AND CHOPS IT UP.

WATER NOW FLOWS
INTO THE SHORTER PIECE OF PIPE,

WHICH IS ENCASED IN A MOLD.

TOOLS PUSH INTO THE PIPE,

FORCING THE WATER
IN A VERTICAL DIRECTION.

SHEER WATER PRESSURE
RESHAPES THE TUBING INTO A "T,"

WHILE THE MOLD ESTABLISHES
THE CONTOURS.

"T" FITTINGS ARE USED TO COMBINE
OR SPLIT THE FLOW OF FLUID

IN A PLUMBING SYSTEM,

AND THE WATER FORMING PRESS

DOES A SEAMLESS JOB
OF MAKING THEM.

BUT THERE'S STILL THE MATTER

OF THE CLOSED END
AT THE BASE OF THE "T,"

SO THEY CHOP THAT OFF.

THEY MACHINE ALL THREE OPENINGS,

BECAUSE WHEN THEY CONNECT IT
TO OTHER PIPES,

IT HAS TO FIT --
TO A "T," OF COURSE.

NOW THESE FITTINGS ARE READY
TO JOIN OTHER PIPES AND PARTS.

AND BY DOING SO,

THEY'LL MAKE OUR LIVES
A WHOLE LOT MORE CONVENIENT.

Narrator: IN VICTORIAN TIMES,
THE CYLINDER MUSIC BOX

COULD MAKE OR BREAK
A PARTY IN THE PARLOR.

ITS RICH, RINGING TONES
FILLED THE ROOM,

AND THE DESIGN
WAS TRULY A MECHANICAL MARVEL.

TODAY THAT DISTINCTIVE SOUND
STILL RESONATES

AS COMPANIES
MAKE THESE INSTRUMENTS

FOR A GROWING
COLLECTORS' MARKET.

OPEN THE BOX,

AND YOU'LL DISCOVER THE GIFT
OF MUSIC FROM ANOTHER ERA.

JUST WIND UP
THE MECHANISM INSIDE

FOR LIVE MUSIC
WITHOUT ANY HUMAN PERFORMERS.

A CYLINDER REVOLVES,

AND STRATEGICALLY ARRANGED PINS
STRUM A COMB

TO PRODUCE THE NOTES.

THE ETHEREAL SOUND IS SIMILAR

TO THAT OF A BELL CHOIR
OR A HARP ENSEMBLE.

IT ALL STARTS WITH EQUIPMENT

THAT STAMP AND CUT STEEL
TO PRODUCE A COMB SHAPE.

A CIRCULAR SAW
CARVES TEETH IN IT,

AND THIS TOOL SHARPENS THEM.

THEY BAKE THE COMBS OVER FLAMES

AND THEN PLUNGE THEM
INTO A COOL OIL

TO CREATE A THERMAL SHOCK
THAT HARDENS THE STEEL.

WITH A FLAT TOOL,
THEY DIRECT MELTED LEAD

INTO A MOLD
POSITIONED UNDER THE COMB.

THE LEAD HARDENS INTO A WEIGHT

THAT WILL HELP PRODUCE
THE LOW NOTES.

A ROTATING TOOL
CUTS TEETH INTO IT.

THEY NOW SPREAD LEAD SOLDER
ON THE COMB'S EDGE

AND ON A CORRESPONDING
PIECE OF LEAD.

THEY FILE OFF EXCESS LEAD

AND THEN TUNE THE COMB
BY FIRST CLIPPING THE TEETH...

...THEN GRINDING THEM

UNTIL THE NOTES THEY PRODUCE
ARE PRECISELY PITCHED.

THIS BIT OF FINE-TUNING
IS COMPUTER CONTROLLED.

THEY DIP SYNTHETIC FEATHERS
IN GLUE

AND APPLY THEM TO THE BASS NOTES
TO SOFTEN THE VIBRATIONS.

THIS COMPLETES THE MUSICAL COMB.

THEY MOVE ON
TO THE BRASS CYLINDERS

AND DRILL HOLES IN THEM
TO TRANSFER THE MUSICAL SCORE.

A COMPUTER
CONTROLS THIS PROCESS,

AS WELL AS THE NEXT ONE,

WHICH INVOLVES
CUTTING STEEL WIRE

AND INSERTING IT INTO EACH
OF THE CYLINDER'S HOLES.

THIS IS CALLED PINNING.

AND, OF COURSE, IN THE OLD DAYS,

IT WAS ALL DONE MANUALLY
AND WAS FAR MORE TIME CONSUMING.

NEXT, THEY PUMP RESIN
INTO THE CYLINDER

AND IT ADHERES TO THE WALL,

SECURING THE PINS
FROM THE INSIDE.

THEY SPRAY COMPRESSED AIR

TO COOL THE CYLINDER
AS THE RESIN CURES.

AFTER AN AXLE
HAS BEEN INSTALLED INSIDE,

THEY ARRANGE THE CYLINDER
ON A BASEPLATE

AND INSTALL LITTLE RACKS
FOR THE AXLE TO TURN ON.

THE CYLINDER SPEED WILL BE
REGULATED BY THE GOVERNOR.

USING A SPECIAL TOOL,

THEY WIND A LONG SPRING INTO
ITS HOUSING NEAR THE GOVERNOR.

IT'S THE RELEASE
OF THIS SPRING'S PENT-UP ENERGY

THAT WILL CAUSE THE CYLINDER
TO ROTATE AND STRUM THE COMB.

POSITIONING THE COMB
NEXT TO THE CYLINDER

TAKES A CERTAIN KNOW-HOW.

IF IT'S EVEN SLIGHTLY
OUT OF PLACE,

THERE WILL BE
A LOT OF SOUR NOTES.

DUST CAN ALSO AFFECT THE MUSIC,

SO THEY MAKE SURE
TO GET EVERY SPECK.

IT'S TIME TO ATTACH THE LEVER
THAT WINDS THE MUSIC-BOX MOTOR.

THIS LITTLE SPRING
COMPLETES THE CONNECTION.

THEY SLIDE THIS MECHANICAL
MUSICAL INSTRUMENT INTO ITS BOX,

AND IT'S SHOWTIME.

THE CLASSIC WOODEN CABINETRY

SETS THE STAGE FOR A MUSICAL ACT
THAT HAS TIMELESS APPEAL.

THERE ALSO ARE

MORE CONTEMPORARY-LOOKING
MUSIC BOXES.

THIS ART-GLASS DESIGN SHOWCASES
THE CENTURIES-OLD TECHNOLOGY.

AND THEN THERE'S A VERSION

THAT COMES
WITH ALL THE BELLS AND WHISTLES.

HERE, THE CYLINDER OPERATES CAMS
THAT HIT BELLS

WHILE, AT THE SAME TIME,
PLUCKING THE COMB.

IT'S A GOOD EXAMPLE

WHY THE MUSIC BOX CONTINUES
TO BE A TOUGH ACT TO FOLLOW.

Narrator:
EVER SINCE THE 14th CENTURY,

PEOPLE HAVE BEEN USING
PEPPER MILLS

TO KICK UP THE FLAVOR FACTOR,

SO THEY DEFINITELY HAVE
A WELL-SEASONED REPUTATION.

TODAY, PEPPER MILLS

COME WITH STATE-OF-THE-ART
GRINDING MECHANISMS

AND THERE ARE EVEN
ELECTRIC MODELS

FOR A TRULY CRUSHING EXPERIENCE.

FRESHLY GROUND PEPPER

HAS MORE SPICE
THAN PRE-GROUND PEPPER,

WHICH MAKES PEPPER MILLS
A HOT COMMODITY.

THEY MAKE THE GRINDING MECHANISM
FROM TOUGH, HARDENED STEEL.

AN AUTOMATED CHISELING TOOL

CARVES TEETH
INTO THE OUTER RING,

MAKING A ROW OF LARGER ONES
TO CRACK THE PEPPERCORNS

AND A ROW OF SMALLER ONES
FOR FINE GRINDING.

THIS SMALLER RING

IS TO BE THE MOVING PART
OF THE GRINDING MECHANISM.

AFTER THE STAMP
TRADEMARK INFORMATION ONTO IT,

A TOOL ETCHES TEETH INTO IT,
AS WELL.

THEY'RE DESIGNED TO GRIND FREELY
AGAINST THOSE IN THE OUTER RING

WITHOUT LOCKING TOGETHER.

THICK STEEL WIRE NOW UNCOILS

AND TRAVELS BETWEEN ROLLERS
FOR STRAIGHTENING.

THEN THERE'S
QUICK CHOPPING ACTION

AS A ROTATING CUTTER
SLICES IT INTO SHORTER PIECES.

EACH ONE WILL BECOME
A DRIVE SHAFT FOR A PEPPER MILL.

A TOOL SLIMS AND TRIMS
ONE END OF THE SHAFT

SO IT WILL FIT
INTO THE INNER GRINDING PART.

ROLLING CUTTERS CARVE THREADS
INTO THE OTHER END

FOR ATTACHING IT TO THE
ADJUSTER KNOB OF A MANUAL MILL.

ROBOTS INSTALL
THE INNER GRINDING RING

ON THE DRIVE SHAFT.

THEY RANDOMLY SELECT PARTS
FOR CLOSE-UP SCRUTINY.

A CAMERA ZOOMS IN ON THE
PEPPER MILL'S GRINDING TEETH,

AND A COMPUTER ANALYZES THEIR
DIMENSIONS AND GENERAL QUALITY.

NOW IT'S TIME TO ASSEMBLE
THE GRINDER'S OUTER RING, SHAFT,

AND INNER GRINDING DEVICE,

WHICH THEY PRESS-FIT
TO THE PEPPER MILL BODY.

THEY SURROUND THE GRINDER
WITH A METAL RING

AND BRACE IT WITH A BRACKET.

THEY INSERT A LIGHT BULB
TO ILLUMINATE YOUR FOOD

SO YOU DON'T ADD
TOO MUCH PEPPER.

THEN THEY ATTACH A TEST MOTOR,

WHICH TURNS THE GRINDING
MECHANISM AND CHECKS THE BULB.

A FEW UNITS ARE SELECTED
TO UNDERGO A GRUELING TEST.

THEY RUN THEM
FOR HOURS AT A TIME

TO CONFIRM THIS PRODUCTION RUN
CAN HANDLE THE DAILY GRIND.

BUT A PEPPER MILL
JUST ISN'T COMPLETE

WITHOUT ITS PARTNER,
THE SALT MILL.

THEY USE STAINLESS STEEL
TO MAKE ITS GRINDING DEVICE

BECAUSE IT RESISTS
THE CORROSIVENESS OF SALT.

HYDRAULIC MACHINERY

PUNCHES THE METAL
INTO DIES 10 TIMES

TO SHAPE THE SALT MILL'S
OUTER GRINDING RINGS.

HERE YOU CAN SEE THE VARIOUS
STAGES OF THE FORMING PROCESS.

THE FINAL RESULT IS A PART

WITH THREE LARGE, JAGGED TEETH
IN THE LOWER SECTION.

THEY'RE DESIGNED SPECIFICALLY

TO MOVE SALT CRYSTALS
TOWARDS THE INNER GRINDING RING.

AFTER A COMPUTER CHECK,
THIS PART IS READY FOR ASSEMBLY.

THEY INSTALL IT
IN THE SALT-MILL HOUSING

AND THEN INSERT
THE INNER GRINDER AND SHAFT.

ONCE THE ELECTRIC MOTOR
IS ATTACHED,

THIS SALT MILL
IS DONE LIKE DINNER.

FOR A TRADITIONAL PEPPER MILL,

THEY SCULPT WOOD
INTO THAT CLASSIC SHAPE

RECOGNIZED BY PEPPER FANS
EVERYWHERE.

THEY INSERT THE SAME KIND
OF GRINDING HARDWARE

THAT'S USED
IN THE ELECTRIC MILLS,

BUT THE SHAFT IS LONGER

BECAUSE THIS MANUAL MILL
WILL BE QUITE A BIT TALLER.

CHEFS OFTEN PREFER A PEPPER MILL
WITH HEIGHT

BECAUSE IT'S EASIER TO USE.

ONCE ASSEMBLED,
THE PEPPER MILL GETS A FILL-UP.

THEN THEY CAP IT AND ADJUST
THE TOP KNOB TO A MEDIUM GRIND.

OF COURSE,

ALL MILLS CAN BE ADJUSTED
FOR DIFFERENT-SIZED GRINDS.

FROM FINE TO COARSE,
THE CHOICE IS YOURS.

IT'S REALLY A MATTER OF TASTE.

Narrator: THE DRIVING FORCE
BEHIND A VEHICLE'S DIRECTION

IS THE STEERING COLUMN.

IT CONNECTS THE STEERING WHEEL
TO THE FRONT WHEELS.

BUT DESPITE THE NAME,

STEERING ISN'T
THE STEERING COLUMN'S ONLY JOB.

IT ALSO HOUSES
THE TURN-SIGNAL SWITCH

AND A TILT MECHANISM

TO ADJUST THE ANGLE
OF THE STEERING WHEEL.

THIS COMPANY
MAKES CUSTOM STEERING COLUMNS,

THE KIND YOU ORDER WHEN BUILDING
YOUR OWN CLASSIC CAR OR TRUCK.

FOR THE MAIN SHAFT
OF THE COLUMN,

AN AUTOMATED BAND SAW
SLICES STEEL TUBING,

TWO AT A TIME,
TO A SPECIFIC LENGTH.

THIS BELT SANDER
SMOOTHES OUT THE ROUGH EDGES.

THE NEXT MACHINE FORMS THE SHAFT
INTO A SPECIFIC SHAPE

THAT'LL ENGAGE AND TURN
WITH THE STEERING WHEEL.

A COMPUTER-GUIDED LASER CUTTER
MAKES THE STEEL HOUSING

THAT'LL COVER THE STEERING
COLUMN'S UPPER COMPONENTS.

IT CUTS HOLES
FOR THE VARIOUS CONTROL LEVERS

THAT'LL CONNECT
TO THE STEERING COLUMN.

THE UPPER HOUSING
NOW GOES ONTO A DEVICE

THAT HOLDS IT STEADY

WHILE A BELT GRINDER REMOVES
ANY SURFACE IMPERFECTIONS.

MEANWHILE, WORKERS WELD TOGETHER
THE TWO STEEL PIECES

THAT MAKE UP THE
STEERING COLUMN'S LOWER HOUSING.

THEN, TO MAKE
THE STEERING COLUMN LOOK SLEEK,

THEY ATTACH A STEEL CONE
USING A FINE WELDING TORCH.

WITH AN ABRASIVE BELT,
THEY POLISH THE WELD LINE

UNTIL IT'S BARELY NOTICEABLE.

THEN THEY DO
AN OVERALL POLISHING

TO MAKE THE ENTIRE SURFACE
SMOOTH AND READY TO PAINT.

THEY'VE ATTACHED A COMPONENT
CALLED THE LOWER YOKE SHAFT

TO THE MAIN SHAFT MADE EARLIER.

AFTER GREASING IT, THEY SNAP
AN UPPER YOKE SHAFT INTO IT.

THESE ENABLE THE SHAFT TO PIVOT

WHEN YOU TILT
THE STEERING COLUMN.

HERE, THEY INSTALL A COMPONENT
IN THE LOWER HOUSING

TO WHICH THEY'LL LATER ATTACH
THE TILTING MECHANISM.

ONCE THAT'S IN PLACE,
THEY INSTALL A PULL WIRE

TO HELP PULL THROUGH
THE ELECTRICAL SYSTEM LATER ON.

FINALLY, THEY SLIDE THE SHAFT
THROUGH THE HOUSING.

A COMPUTER-CONTROLLED
MILLING MACHINE

SHAPES THE TILTING MECHANISM'S
ALUMINUM BODY.

THE NEXT MACHINE INSTALLS
POSITION-LOCKING FINGERS

WHICH ALLOW THE COLUMN TO TILT
WHEN YOU PULL THE TILT LEVER

THEN RE-ENGAGE TO LOCK
IN THE SELECTED POSITION.

THIS PRESS INSTALLS BEARINGS

TO MAKE
THE TURNING PROCESS SMOOTH.

NOW THE UPPER SECTION
JOINS THE LOWER SECTION.

THEY ATTACH WITH TWO PINS
THAT ALLOW THE COLUMN TO PIVOT.

A THICK STEEL SPRING
SUPPORTS THE COLUMN

SO WHEN THE FINGERS DISENGAGE

THE COLUMN DOESN'T JUST DROP
INTO THE DRIVER'S LAP.

NEXT, THEY INSTALL
THE COLUMN'S UPPER HOUSING.

THAT'S THE PART
WITH THE HOLES FOR THE LEVERS

TO CONTROL THE TILT,

THE TURN SIGNALS,
AND THE EMERGENCY FLASHERS.

REMEMBER THAT PULL WIRE?

THEY TAPE THE SIGNAL SWITCHES
AND WIRING TO IT

THEN PULL THEM
THROUGH THE COLUMN.

THEY'LL LATER CUSHION
THIS EXIT HOLE

WITH A RUBBER GROMMET
TO PREVENT ANY CHAFING.

NEXT, THEY INSTALL THE HORN CAM.

IT PASSES POWER FROM THE HORN
TO THE STEERING WHEEL

TO ENABLE HONKING.

USING THIS TOOL,

THEY LOCK IN A RETAINING CLIP
TO HOLD EVERYTHING TOGETHER.

ALL THE WIRING THAT PASSES
THROUGH THE STEERING COLUMN

CONNECTS TO A PLUG.

YOU JUST INSERT IT INTO
THE VEHICLE'S ELECTRICAL SYSTEM.

THESE STEERING COLUMNS
COME IN A CHOICE OF FINISHES.

YOU CAN ALSO BUY AN UNFINISHED
COLUMN AND PAINT IT YOURSELF.

AFTER INSTALLING THE COLUMN,
YOU JUST ADD A STEERING WHEEL

THEN MOUNT THE LEVERS AND KNOBS
INCLUDED IN THE KIT.

THEN, FROM THAT POINT ON,
YOU'RE IN THE DRIVER'S SEAT.

--Captions by VITAC--
www.vitac.com

CAPTIONS PAID FOR BY
DISCOVERY COMMUNICATIONS

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