Original subtitles

--Captions by VITAC-- www.vitac.com

CAPTIONS PAID FOR BY DISCOVERY COMMUNICATIONS

Narrator: PEOPLE HAVE BEEN STEAMING FOOD FOR THOUSANDS OF YEARS.

ONCE UPON A TIME, STEAMERS WERE MADE OUT OF CLAY POTS

WITH PERFORATED FLOORS.

TODAY, WE'VE COME UP WITH ALL SORTS OF METAL

AND PLASTIC INNOVATIONS.

THE TRADITIONAL BAMBOO STEAMER IS A PERFECT BALANCE

BETWEEN THE OLD AND THE NEW.

PERFECTED BY GENERATIONS OF CRAFTSMEN,

TRADITIONAL BAMBOO STEAMERS ARE LIGHTWEIGHT, STRONG,

AND DURABLE.

THEY LOOK LIKE SIMPLE COOKING TOOLS,

BUT BUILDING THEM REQUIRES ENORMOUS ARTISANAL SKILL.

THE CRAFTSMAN BUYS LENGTHS OF BAMBOO FROM LOCAL FARMERS.

HE USES A TRADITIONAL PLANER HE CRAFTED HIMSELF

TO SMOOTH THE BAMBOO JOINTS.

A CUSTOMIZED CHOPPER TOOL HELPS HIM SPLIT THE BAMBOO LENGTHWISE.

HE INSERTS A BAMBOO STICK TO HOLD THE SPLIT OPEN.

AFTER REMOVING THE CHOPPER, HE PULLS ON THE STICK

TO SPLIT THE ENTIRE LENGTH OF THE BAMBOO.

THE CRAFTSMAN SPLITS THE SECTIONS AGAIN.

TO ASSEMBLE THE STEAMER BASE,

THE CRAFTSMAN WILL SPLIT THE BAMBOO INTO 32 PIECES.

THE COVER WILL REQUIRE 128 PIECES.

A CUSTOM-MADE KNIFE KNOCKS DOWN THE INTERSECTIONS OF THE BAMBOO.

FOR THE STEAMER'S COVER,

THE CRAFTSMAN SPLITS THE BAMBOO HORIZONTALLY.

NEXT, THE CRAFTSMAN USES THIS SLICING TOOL TO CUT THE WOOD.

HE SETS THE DESIRED WIDTH

AND SLICES A THIN SHEET OF WOOD LENGTHWISE.

HE USES THIS SECTION OF WOOD TO FORM THE BASE OF THE STEAMER

AND SLIDES A BAMBOO RING OVER IT TO HOLD IT IN PLACE.

THEN HE PUNCHES SMALL HOLES WITH A DRILL...

...AND REINFORCES THE JOINT WITH STAINLESS STEEL WIRE.

THE INSTALLATION PROCESS BEGINS.

FIRST BY INSTALLING A SERIES OF INNER RINGS

WHICH WILL SERVE TO REINFORCE THE STRUCTURE OF THE STEAMER

AND TO SUPPORT MULTIPLE LEVELS OF STEAMERS INSIDE IT.

THE CRAFTSMAN USES SPECIAL TECHNIQUES TO ENSURE

THAT EACH JOINT IS PERFECTLY ALIGNED FOR MAXIMUM STRENGTH.

WORKING ALMOST ENTIRELY BY HAND WITH SKILLS ACQUIRED OVER TIME,

HE METICULOUSLY CREATES A STRONG,

YET LIGHTWEIGHT PIECE OF KITCHEN EQUIPMENT.

THE BASKET STILL NEEDS A BOTTOM TO REST DUMPLINGS IN.

THE CRAFTSMAN BEGINS BUILDING THE BASKET FLOOR

BY CUSTOM FITTING A SERIES OF RUGGED CROSS PIECES.

HE ENSURES THAT EACH PIECE FITS PERFECTLY BEFORE PROCEEDING.

THEN HE INSERTS THIN, MORE PLIABLE PIECES OF BAMBOO

TO HOLD THE CROSS PIECES IN PLACE.

NEXT, HE LAYS THE FINAL LAYER ON TOP,

PLACING THE PIECES WITH THEIR OUTER SIDES

FACING UP TO FORM A SMOOTH SURFACE FOR FOOD

TO SIT ON WHILE STEAMING.

WITH THE FLOOR OF THE STEAMER IN PLACE,

IT'S TIME TO SECURE THE UPPER PIECES

BY BINDING THEM TO THE SUPPORT PIECES.

TO DO THIS, HE THREADS A STAINLESS STEEL WIRE

THROUGH THE CRACKS,

TWISTING THE ENDS TIGHTLY TO THE BASE.

THEN HE GIVES THE INNER SUPPORT RINGS UNDER

THE STEAMER FLOOR A FEW TAPS, SECURING THEM IN PLACE.

THE BASKET'S BASE IS NOW COMPLETE.

NEXT, THE CRAFTSMAN BEGINS WEAVING THE BAMBOO PIECES

TOGETHER THAT WILL FORM THE COVER.

HE USES A TRADITIONAL PATTERN CALLED A TWILL WEAVE.

THEN HE INSERTS PAPER BEFORE ADDING A SECOND LAYER OF BAMBOO.

THE PAPER WILL HELP PREVENT STEAM FROM ESCAPING

THE BASKET TOO QUICKLY.

HE THEN SNAPS IN A SERIES OF CAREFULLY SIZED REINFORCEMENTS

TO KEEP THE LAYERS IN PLACE.

FINALLY, HE CUSTOM FITS ANOTHER INTERIOR RING

UNDER THE REINFORCEMENTS TO HOLD EVERYTHING TOGETHER,

TAPPING IT CAREFULLY INTO POSITION.

THE STEAMER COVER IS NOW COMPLETE.

NARRATOR: A THREE-WHEEL MOTORIZED SCOOTER PROVIDES THE RIDER

WITH MORE STABILITY THAN A TWO-WHEELED SCOOTER.

BY UTILIZING THREE POINTS OF CONTACT WITH THE GROUND,

THIS SCOOTER IS LESS LIKELY TO SKID OR FALL OVER

WHEN MAKING A SHARP TURN,

OR WHILE DRIVING ON AN UNPAVED SURFACE.

THIS HIGH-END, THREE-WHEELED SCOOTER

HAS THE LOOK AND COMFORT OF A MOTORCYCLE

WITHOUT THE HIGH PRICE TAG.

IT CAN REACH SPEEDS OF UP TO 85 MILES PER HOUR

AND TRAVEL ABOUT 186 MILES ON A FULL TANK OF GAS.

AT THE FACTORY, MECHANICS BEGIN ASSEMBLING THE ENGINE

BY PRESSING TWO BALL BEARINGS

INTO THE LEFT SIDE OF AN ALUMINUM CRANKCASE.

THEY INSERT A THIRD BALL BEARING THAT'S ASSEMBLED

TO THE GEAR SHAFT.

THEN THE CRANKSHAFT IS INSTALLED ON THE OPPOSITE END.

IN BETWEEN THE TWO CASES,

A GASKET IS MOUNTED TO PREVENT OIL FROM LEAKING OUT.

MECHANICS FIT THE RIGHT SIDE OF THE CRANKCASE TO THE LEFT SIDE

AND BOLT THEM TOGETHER.

THEY PLACE ONE END OF THE DRIVE CHAIN AROUND THE CRANKSHAFT,

AND THEN ANOTHER.

THIS GEAR IS INSTALLED FOR THE OIL PUMP.

AS THE CRANKSHAFT ROTATES,

THE INTERIOR OF THE ENGINE IS GREASED WITH OIL.

THIS GEAR ROTATES THE CRANKSHAFT,

WHICH STARTS THE ENGINE.

AND THIS GEAR, ASSEMBLED TO A GENERATOR,

GOES ON THE CRANKSHAFT.

WHEN THE GENERATOR ROTATES, IT PROVIDES ELECTRIC CURRENT

TO RUN THE SCOOTER'S LIGHTS AND OTHER ELECTRICAL COMPONENTS.

TECHNICIANS CLOSE UP THE RIGHT SIDE

OF THE CRANKCASE WITH A COVER...

...INSTALL THE WATER PUMP...

...AND CAP THE GENERATOR.

NEXT, MECHANICS INSTALL REDUCTION GEARS

ONTO THE BALL BEARINGS

THAT WERE PLACED IN THE LEFT SIDE OF THE CRANKCASE.

REDUCTION GEARS LOWER THE ROTATION SPEED OF THE CRANKSHAFT

TO MAKE IT MORE MANAGEABLE FOR THE DRIVE SHAFT

WHICH TURNS THE WHEELS.

A PULLEY-BASED AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION SYSTEM

CALLED A CVT IS ASSEMBLED.

IT'S POWERFUL, FUEL-EFFICIENT, AND RUNS SMOOTHER

THAN A STANDARD, GEAR-BASED, AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION.

TECHNICIANS ATTACH THE PISTON TO THE PISTON ROD

AND PLACE IT INTO THE ENGINE'S SINGLE CYLINDER.

THE BOTTOM OF THE PISTON ROD IS LINKED TO THE CRANKSHAFT.

THEY PLACE AN ALUMINUM COVER OVER THE TRANSMISSION

AND INSTALL THE CYLINDER HEAD,

WHICH IS EQUIPPED WITH SEVERAL SENSORS

FOR FUEL INJECTION AND OTHER FUNCTIONS.

NEXT, MECHANICS MOUNT THE REAR WHEEL ONTO THE DRIVE SHAFT.

THIS ALUMINUM SWING ARM SUPPORTS THE WHEEL AND ENGINE.

THE STEEL FRAME IS PAINED BLACK

AND IS ENGRAVED WITH THE SCOOTER'S VEHICLE

IDENTIFICATION NUMBER.

TECHNICIANS BOLT THE FRAME TO THE FRONT OF THE ENGINE

AND TO A PAIR OF SHOCK ABSORBERS AT THE BACK.

THEY INSTALL PART OF THE FRONT SUSPENSION SYSTEM,

ONE ON EACH SIDE OF THE FRAME.

THEN THEY MOUNT THE THREE WHEEL HUBS

AND INSTALL EACH INTEGRATED BRAKE DISC WITH A BRAKE CALIPER.

BACK TO THE FRONT SUSPENSION SYSTEM,

MECHANICS CONNECT A SHOCK ABSORBER TO EACH TRIANGULAR ARM.

THEY INSTALL THE HANDLEBARS,

BRAKE LEVERS WITH HYDRAULIC CABLES,

AND SWITCHES FOR THE LIGHTS, SIGNALS, AND HORN.

ONCE THE IGNITION SWITCH AND VINYL SEAT IS BUILT IN,

MECHANICS INSTALL THE REAR LIGHTS

AND TURN SIGNALS, THE L.E.D. HEADLIGHTS...

AND MOUNT THE THREE WHEELS AND TIRES.

THE LAST STEP IS TO RUN THE SCOOTER

THROUGH A SERIES OF TESTS.

THE TEST EVALUATES THE FUNCTIONALITY OF THE LIGHTS,

TURN SIGNALS, FRONT AND REAR BRAKES, ACCELERATION,

AND THE ACCURACY OF THE SPEEDOMETER.

THERE IS NO QUESTION THIS SCOOTER PROVIDES

A TON OF STABILITY.

WITH A FRONT SUSPENSION SYSTEM

DESIGNED TO KEEP BOTH FRONT WHEELS ON THE GROUND,

THE RIDER IS GUARANTEED A SMOOTH AND ENJOYABLE RIDE.

Narrator: A CONSERVATORY IS DESIGNED TO LET IN SUNLIGHT.

IT'S OFTEN REFERRED TO AS AN EXTENSION OF THE HOME,

ALLOWING PEOPLE TO ENJOY THE WARMTH OF THE SUN

WITHOUT EVER HAVING TO STEP OUTSIDE.

A PREFABRICATED CONSERVATORY CAN BE ASSEMBLED IN THREE DAYS,

SO YOU CAN QUICKLY HAVE AN INDOOR PLACE IN THE SUN.

PRODUCING A PREFAB CONSERVATORY

STARTS WITH A CUSTOMIZED COMPUTER-GENERATED DESIGN.

FIRST, A DESIGNER SELECTS THE PARTS FOR THE FRAMEWORK.

THIS PIECE OF VINYL CLADDING WILL BE PART

OF A DECORATIVE RIDGE.

THEN ALL THE MATERIALS ARE PLACED ON RACKS.

THERE CAN BE 50 TO 500 PIECES,

DEPENDING ON THE SIZE OF THE CONSERVATORY.

USING A CIRCULAR BLADE,

THE METAL CUTTER TRIMS ALUMINUM COMPONENTS

TO VARIOUS LENGTHS AND ANGLES, ACCORDING TO HIS MEASUREMENTS.

ANOTHER DESIGNER WELDS ALUMINUM PARTS TO BUILD A GUTTER SYSTEM.

HE MAKES TIGHT WELDS FOR WATERPROOF JOINTS.

NEXT, A TEAM ASSEMBLES THE FRAME TO CONFIRM

THAT THE PARTS CONNECT TOGETHER.

IF SUCCESSFUL, THE FRAMEWORK WILL BE TAKEN APART

FOR REASSEMBLY ON SITE.

AFTER THE ROOF'S RIDGE BEAM IS SET ON STANDS

IN THE CENTER OF THE FRAME,

TECHNICIANS BOLT ONE END OF A LOAD BEAM TO THE EAVES

AND THE OTHER TO THE ELEVATED RIDGE.

MORE BEAMS ARE ADDED TO CREATE A TRUSS SYSTEM

TO SUPPORT THE ROOF.

THE STANDS SUPPORTING THE RIDGE BEAM ARE REMOVED.

A DESIGNER MEASURES AND MAPS OUT ROOF PANELS ON POLYCARBONATE.

THE POLYCARBONATE HAS A HOLLOW, WAFFLE STRUCTURE

THAT GIVES IT INSULATING PROPERTIES.

HE CUTS OUT THE PANELS ACCORDING TO HIS MEASUREMENTS.

AFTER SEALING THE EDGES WITH FELT,

THE PANELS ARE MOUNTED TO THE ROOF.

VINYL CLADDING ON THE EXPOSED STRUCTURAL BAR

SECURES THE PANELS.

THE DESIGNER TAPES THE VINYL WITH A HAMMER

TO FLARE IT AGAINST THE POLYCARBONATE.

THEN HE INSTALLS THE VINYL RIDGE GAP.

THE ELABORATE, MOLDED FINIALS MAKE A STATEMENT

WHILE STOPPING WATER FROM DRIPPING

INTO THE TOP OF THE ROOF.

HE PEELS OFF THE PROTECTIVE LINER

TO REVEAL THE TRANSLUCENT POLYCARBONATE PANELS.

ON ANOTHER PRODUCTION LINE,

AN AUTOMATIC SAW CUTS VINYL COMPONENTS

FOR THE WALLS AT THE SPECIFIED LENGTH.

ROUTERS CARVE HOLES FOR HARDWARE.

SAWS CUT NOTCHES IN SPECIFIC LOCATIONS,

ENABLING THEM TO JOIN THE REST OF THE BUILDING FRAMEWORK.

A TECHNICIAN ARRANGES THE VINYL POSTS AND BEAMS

IN A THERMAL WELDER.

THE MACHINE MELTS THE PARTS WHERE THEY INTERSECT

AND FUSES THEM TOGETHER.

EACH PART OF THE WALL FRAME IS WELDED SEPARATELY,

AND THEN JOINED TOGETHER.

THE WELDING LEAVES THE SEAMS A BIT ROUGH,

SO A MACHINE TRIMS OFF ANY EXCESS VINYL.

A CIRCULAR SAW MOVES IN AND CLEANS UP THE EXTERIOR CORNERS.

TO CUSTOMIZE THE COLOR,

DESIGNERS SPRAY THE WALL FRAME WITH AN ACRYLIC PAINT

THAT CHEMICALLY BONDS TO THE VINYL TO PREVENT CHIPPING.

BACK TO THE WHITE FRAME.

A TEAM INSERTS A GLASS PANEL IN THE RIDGED RIM.

STRIPS OF VINYL AROUND THE EDGES HOLD THE GLASS IN

AND KEEP WATER OUT.

THE TEAM ASSEMBLES A FACTORY DISPLAY MODEL.

THE WALL PANELS ARE INSTALLED INTO GROOVES ON THE FRAME

AND CONNECTED BY ALUMINUM POSTS.

NEXT, THE DOORS ARE INSTALLED.

A TECHNICIAN TIGHTLY PULLS THE WALL

FRAMES TO THE ALUMINUM POSTS USING NYLON COMPOSITE DEVICES.

VINYL CASINGS COVER THE POSTS AND ANY NYLON LOCKS.

USING A CRANE, THE TEAM LOWERS THE ROOF ONTO THE STRUCTURE

AND BOLTS IT IN PLACE.

THE CONSERVATORY IS COMPLETE.

NOW IT'S TIME TO RELAX WHILE SITTING INDOORS.

Narrator: PEOPLE HAVE USED COPPER POTS AND PANS FOR THOUSANDS OF YEARS.

COPPER IS AN IDEAL HEAT CONDUCTOR,

ALLOWING FOOD TO BE COOKED QUICKLY AND EVENLY.

COPPER POTS ALLOW FOR MORE PRECISE TEMPERATURE CONTROL,

WHICH MEANS DINNER IS LESS LIKELY TO BE SERVED BURNT.

IN THE CULINARY WORLD, COPPER IS A PRECIOUS METAL.

BESIDES BEING A GREAT CONDUCTOR OF HEAT,

COPPER POTS LOOK GOOD ON THE COOKTOP.

TO CUT OUT A ROUND BLANK,

A CRAFTSMAN PLACES A CENTERING DISK ON A COPPER SHEET.

HE LINKS IT TO A PLASMA TORCH USING A METAL SPINDLE.

THE SPINDLE HOLDS THE TORCH AT A SPECIFIC DISTANCE

SO THAT, AS THE TORCH CUTS OUT THE CIRCLE, THE RADIUS IS EXACT.

THE COPPERSMITH ENSURES THAT THE CUTOUT IS AS CLOSE

TO THE EDGE OF THE COPPER SHEET AS POSSIBLE TO MINIMIZE WASTE.

NEXT, HE EXAMINES THE CIRCULAR BLANK.

THE PLASMA CUTTING HAS LEFT THE EDGES FRAYED,

SO HE SMOOTHES THEM BY CLAMPING THE COPPER BLANK IN A LATHE.

HE TAPS THE BLANK WITH A RUBBER MALLET

AND CENTERS IT BETWEEN THE CLAMPING CHUCKS.

THE COPPERSMITH USES A TOOL TO CHECK

THAT THE BLANK IS POSITIONED CORRECTLY.

THEN HE ADDS OIL TO THE CUTTING TOOL

AND MOVES IT AGAINST THE SPINNING BLANK.

IT TRIMS THE CIRCUMFERENCE, CREATING A CLEANER EDGE

AND REMOVES ANY FLAWS.

HE FILES THE RIM OF THE COPPER BLANK TO MAKE IT SMOOTH

AND EVEN.

USING SANDPAPER, HE FINISHES THE EDGE.

WITH THE IMPERFECTIONS REMOVED,

THE COPPER BLANK IS FORMED INTO A SAUCE PAN WITH SLOPING SIDES.

TWO CRAFTSMEN PRESS A ROLLER AGAINST THE COPPER BLANK

SO THAT IT CONFORMS TO THE SHAPE OF A MOLD.

THAT'S PART OF ONE OF THE CLAMPING CHUCKS.

THIS PROCESS IS CALLED METAL SPINNING.

WHILE ONE CRAFTSMAN MOVES THE ROLLER ACROSS THE COPPER BLANK,

THE OTHER APPLIES PRESSURE.

THIS SHAPING METHOD TAKES EIGHT TO TEN ROUNDS.

FINALLY, THE PAN HAS TAKEN SHAPE,

BUT THE FORMING PROCESS HAS LEFT FINE LINES ON THE SURFACE.

SO AS IT CONTINUES TO SPIN,

THE COPPERSMITH SMOOTHES IT DOWN.

HE APPLIES LUBRICANT TO A CUTTING TOOL

AND TRIMS THE RIM OF THE SAUCEPAN.

THIS GIVES THE PAN THE DESIRED HEIGHT.

THE CUTTING LEAVES THE EDGES VERY SHARP,

SO HE FILES THEM DOWN AGAIN.

THE COPPER SAUCEPAN IS READY FOR THE CAST-IRON HANDLE.

CAST IRON HAS LESS THERMAL CONDUCTIVITY THAN COPPER,

SO THE HEAT FROM THE PAN

WILL TRAVEL MORE SLOWLY UP THE HANDLE.

THE CRAFTSPERSON CLAMPS THE HANDLE TO THE SAUCEPAN.

THIS HOLDS IT TIGHTLY IN PLACE AS HE DRILLS RIVET HOLES

THROUGH BOTH THE IRON HANDLE AND THE COPPER PAN.

THE CRAFTSMAN REMOVES THE CLAMP

AND BOLTS THE HANDLE TO THE PAN TEMPORARILY.

THIS STABILIZES IT

FOR THE DRILLING OF THE SECOND RIVET HOLE.

A RIVET IS INSERTED IN THE SECOND HOLE

FROM THE INSIDE OF THE PAN.

THE COPPERSMITH HEATS THE TAIL OF THE RIVET TO SOFTEN IT.

THEN THE PAN IS TRANSFERRED TO AN ANVIL.

USING A PNEUMATIC HAMMER,

THE COPPERSMITH FLATTENS THE FIRST RIVET,

REMOVES THE TEMPORARY BOLT, AND INSTALLS THE SECOND RIVET.

HE HEATS THE PAN OVER A FLAME

AND MELTS A TIN BAR TO THE BOTTOM.

HE SPREADS THE MOLTEN TIN UP THE SIDES OF THE PAN

USING A RAG THAT'S BEEN SOAKED WITH A FLUX CHEMICAL.

THE FLUX CLEANS THE COPPER

AND ALLOWS THE TIN TO FLOW MORE SMOOTHLY.

THE TIN LINING WILL PREVENT ACIDIC FOODS

FROM LEECHING RAW COPPER INTO THE FOOD.

THE HEAT FROM THE TINNING FLAME HAS CAUSED SOME DISCOLORATION.

THE COPPERSMITH REMOVES THE STAINS BY USING

A COTTON BUFFING WHEEL AND POLISHING COMPOUND.

AS HE CONTINUES,

THE POLISHING TAKES THE COPPER TO A HIGH SHEEN.

THIS COPPER SAUCEPAN IS NOW READY FOR THE STOVETOP.

BUT FIRST, THE CRAFTSMAN POUNDS A STEEL STAMP

INTO THE BOTTOM OF THE PAN,

IMPRINTING IT WITH THE COMPANY LOGO.

FOR COOKWARE THAT ONLY TAKES A COUPLE HOURS TO MAKE,

A COPPER PAN CAN LAST FOR DECADES.

AND IF IT'S WELL CARED FOR, IT WON'T EVEN SHOW ITS AGE.