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this is a uh a really good question this
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this uh probably if I fit 10 or 15
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people in a week probably around four or
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five of them are in this exact situation
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so they've gotten into riding they're
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one or two years in they they have an
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older bike that they they they dip their
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toe in the water with this bike and
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they're not sure if it's right so they
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come to me to get recommendations for
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the next frame and they they ask all the
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right questions a lot of the time but
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sometimes stuff that they didn't really
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consider and this this topic this video
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will try and address some of the the
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critical things um so what should you
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look for in your next bike now the the
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first thing the overarching kind of
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ethos of of the answer is that your next
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bike should be fit for purpose you
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should question yourself and say what am
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I going to do with this thing am I go do
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I want a bike which I can chuck a
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different set of wheels on and go riding
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on gravel on the weekend do I want a
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bike which I can race at the local
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criteriums on the weekend do I want a
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commuting bike which I can also ride on
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the weekend for longer Bunch rides do I
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just want to ride out in the hills with
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my at slow pace for hours on end where
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we want to choose something which is fit
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for purpose I want a bike that looks
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good at the cafe Neil an aob bik with
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integrated bars get out I want to see
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again yeah so I want something which
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doesn't suit me at all but looks really
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cool is what you say so this is the Trap
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that people fall into is they go to the
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local bike shop they look around online
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and they go far out that uh that looks
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795 blade looks awesome what are you
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going to do with it ah 40K rides twice a
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week no no
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no don't do it so you want something
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that is fit for purpose now endurance
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bikes uh crossover gravel bikes road
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bikes they all have their fores and
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their drawbacks right so they have good
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and bad things about them things like
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compliance in the back end rigidity tire
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size tire clearance the adjustability of
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the cockpit so looking at things like an
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integrated cockpit and stuff like that
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versus a standard stem these are things
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which you really want to consider if
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you're riding around doing a lot of
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endurance stuff in on coarse chip seal
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in the back country look for something
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with a fairly big tire a 30 or a 32 and
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drop the pressures down so it's more
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compliant that sort of thing you you
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don't want to potentially go for
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something that's too harsh and too stiff
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and too rigid or too long and low in the
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front end so look for a race bike versus
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an endurance bike versus a crossover
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sort of bike if we're talking about road
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bikes um look for those things and don't
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be sucked into oh my gosh that one looks
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awesome I'll have that before you
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consider these other things so Endurance
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by tend to have more compliance they
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sometimes have things like slacker head
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angles for more stable steering that
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sort of stuff slightly longer wheelbases
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so they feel very smooth and and and
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stable at high speed that sort of stuff
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at the expense of a tiny bit of agility
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look for something that is fit for
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purpose so an endurance bike for most
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people is often a good way to go if
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you're racing and you really want to go
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fast or you're super flexible and you
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need a really long low bike look at look
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into the race bikes you know your TX and
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your your Scot foils and you that sort
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of stuff the chapter 2 the Coco that's
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behind me for example if you're doing
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that sort of riding look for a race bike
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but if you're not try and stay away from
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them you'll often end up with something
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which is just a bit harsher than you
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want a little bit like it's Nimble but
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it's almost too sharp in the steering
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because it's designed for riding at
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really High Speed and Agility and it'll
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be unnecessarily stiff so look for
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something that's fit for purpose number
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two geometry and this is where the
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people they're coming to me this is what
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they really want to know is what sort of
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geometry should I look for in the new
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bike the best way to do this is to
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obviously go and see someone like me if
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you if you've got the the funds and the
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ability get some recommendations on the
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next bike's geometry so that you can
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then go shopping with confidence and
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looking at the reach the stack the C
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tube angle the the the layback on the
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clamp on the seat post that sort of
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stuff if you've got someone like me
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around it's money well spent if not and
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you're fairly comfortable in your old
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position reference off that position
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look up the geometry of the frame and
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then look at the reach the stack and if
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you can delve into other YouTube videos
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explaining what these numbers all mean
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and I would highly recommend that you do
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so look into these things the seat tube
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angle the layback on the seat post and
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look at where it's all set up and then
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reference back to the video that we did
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about where looking at like geometry
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considerations for next frame and we'll
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put a link to that up here how to
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replicate your position across onto the
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new bike as well this sort of stuff will
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enable you to not buy the wrong bike
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geometrically speaking so some Goods for
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this as well like geometry Geeks you can
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compare like 10 bikes against one
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specific geometry and and see how it
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aligns y y so if you're for example
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you've got a 54 cm tarmac at the moment
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and you've had to put an enormous spacer
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stack under the front of it like a 40
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mil spacer to get the bars high enough
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and it's got quite a long reach out at
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like 390 mm or something and you have to
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run a 70 mm stem on it you're going to
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want to look for something that is both
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taller in the front end so with a higher
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stack Dimension but also a shorter reach
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so that you can run a longer stem so
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reference off the geometry of your old
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bike and try and extrapolate to what you
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want and ideally for for really small
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frames a 90 mil stem or longer is no
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problem for larger frames a 100 or
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longer is good right so if you can
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change the reach dimension of the frame
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that you're looking at based upon the
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stem length that you want so don't try
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not to go much shorter than a 90 or an
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80 if you really have to 80s are no
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problem on a smallish bike but on a big
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bike an 80 does make the stem make the
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steering a little bit too sharp for a
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lot of people looks weird as well
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aesthetically is not good deal that's
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very true that is very true and we're
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all about Aesthetics oh 100% so your
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reach and your stack are probably the
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two most critical things to get right
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and then have a look at where the seat
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post is clamped and if your seat post is
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if your your seat is shoved all the way
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forward for example on the post you
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might want to look for a bike with a
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slightly steeper seat tube angle to
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allow you to clamp that seat more in the
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center of the Rails or you might look
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for a bike which has the ability to to
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you have the ability to purchase a zero
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offset seat poost so that you're not
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maxed out on your saddle travel yeah so
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look at the geometry of the bikes that's
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your second consideration and try and
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delve into this a bit and if it's still
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just too much go and see someone like me
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if possible CU they will hopefully steer
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you down the right path of the next
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frame so the bike should be fit for
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purpose it should have the right
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geometry crank length this is one that a
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lot of people never really think about
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if you're buying a bike from a local
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bike shop a lot of the time you can say
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to the guys or the girls at the bike
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shop hey uh can can you swap out the
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172s for say 165s for example read into
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crank length have a look at our videos
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about crank length if you think you need
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to deviate from what the bike stand
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comes from from the factory tell the
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guys or girls at the shop and they they
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can often say oh yeah yeah we'll just
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build it with whatever crank length you
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want for no extra cost a lot of the
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direct to Consumer Brands you can't do
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this you can't say to Canyon for example
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hey can you put 165s on it you sort of
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get what you get right but if you're
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buying it from a local shop often they
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can change the crank length for you and
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if you've got really short legs or hip
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impingement issues or something which
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you've identified from looking at our
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crank length videos consider the crank
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length and consider asking the shop to
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actually change them for you before you
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buy it um number four don't buy an
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integrated cockpit bike unless you know
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exactly what you want so the one behind
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me the Beautiful chapter 2 it's got an
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integrated 110x 400 MM bar and we knew
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exactly what we wanted and we were able
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to tell that to the guys who were
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supplying it so we know we're not going
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to have a problem because we've looked
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at the reach and we know that it's going
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to all work out but for the average
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person adjustability is kink right so
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having the ability to get the bike and
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oh it's totally different to my old bike
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and the reach just feels a bit long so
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I'm just going to change the stem which
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might be a $150 job no problem to change
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the stem on that or any of the
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integrated cockpit bikes your bmc's your
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TRS anything you're looking at sometimes
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up nearly $1,000 to change the cockpit
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length or the width even just the width
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of the bar you know if you if you've got
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a bar that's way too wide or too narrow
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and you want to change it it can be a
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$1,000 job you know by the time you buy
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the new materials and get them all
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fitted up with the internal cable
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routing so my advice is unless you know
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exactly what you need and you're all
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over the geometry of this sort of stuff
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get a bike with a non-integrated cockpit
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so that you can change the stem length
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after the fact if you feel like it's too
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long or Too Short really really highly
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advisable um and the last one look at
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the bar width and this is one that most
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people never really think about they
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just the bike comes with a 42 and that's
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what you get again the bike shop might
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be able to if it's a good local bike
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shop and I always advise people if
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possible to purchase from their local
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bike shop if they can if it's a good
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shop they might say here oh yeah we just
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we order the bike from the manufacturer
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we'll spec whichever group set you want
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and we'll put whichever bar width on it
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that you want so look into the bar width
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and if you want a 38 and it comes with a
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42 ask the guys at the shop if they can
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build it with that if you don't ask
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you'll never know most of the shops most
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of the local bike shops are quite happy
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to source that stuff and sometimes
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there's a small change over cost they
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have to absorb the cost of like moving
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00:09:14,000 --> 00:09:15,880
the components over to another bike or
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something but a lot of the time they'll
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00:09:17,320 --> 00:09:19,760
just do it for you yeah so try and go
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for the bar width that you want the
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crank length that you want and and then
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have the ability to change the stem
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because a bike that doesn't fit you once
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you've purchased it is a is a terrible
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thing you know you spend all this money
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and think oh this thing just doesn't
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feel right cuz the cranks are too long
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00:09:34,360 --> 00:09:37,399
and da da da da yeah and and is highly
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advisable to try and figure this stuff
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out before you purchase it and then all
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the other stuff Beyond this is stuff
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that you don't need to worry about most
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00:09:45,160 --> 00:09:47,160
of the time what color is the bike how
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aerodynamic is it D these are things
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which we viscerally buy bikes based upon
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00:09:53,560 --> 00:09:55,320
how they look a lot of the time but you
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should consider this other stuff more
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than the appearance of the B in my
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opinion so we're all slaves to Fashion
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at some level mate but try not to let
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that be your only purchasing metric yes
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the number of times I've had someone
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come in on a fantastic top speec pinell
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Dogma or something and it's just it's
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00:10:14,839 --> 00:10:17,720
got a 50 mm spaces stack under the stem
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00:10:17,720 --> 00:10:20,200
and the the stem is 70 mil long instead
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00:10:20,200 --> 00:10:23,200
of 110 and it handles too sharp and it's
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just completely the wrong bike for them
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but they love the way it looked try not
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to get roped into that uh impulse
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purchasing sort of stuff too much yes
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yeah use use your
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forebrain plan ahead plan ahead well
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said it shouldn't just be about the
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looks of the BL
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