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These are the user uploaded subtitles that are being translated: 1 00:00:36,328 --> 00:00:40,322 DIGITALLY RESTORED IN 2017 2 00:02:16,219 --> 00:02:19,678 More than 300 million years ago, 3 00:02:19,806 --> 00:02:23,220 this island emerged from the warm Silurian sea. 4 00:02:24,186 --> 00:02:28,681 The bedrock features fossils of ancient coral, shellfish, 5 00:02:28,815 --> 00:02:31,273 and other mysterious species. 6 00:02:32,361 --> 00:02:35,399 FĂ„rö was originally known as "Faröy," thought to mean 7 00:02:35,530 --> 00:02:38,068 "the island to which one journeyed" 8 00:02:38,325 --> 00:02:40,658 or "the traveler's island." 9 00:02:41,161 --> 00:02:43,904 Several theories exist as to the origin of the name. 10 00:02:44,039 --> 00:02:46,827 In olden times, the island was a link 11 00:02:46,958 --> 00:02:49,917 connecting the active maritime routes on the Baltic. 12 00:02:50,545 --> 00:02:55,381 FĂ„rö may also have been a sanctuary for people less welcome elsewhere. 13 00:02:56,885 --> 00:03:00,754 At present, the island of FĂ„rö has 673 inhabitants. 14 00:03:00,889 --> 00:03:04,178 Fifty years ago, nearly twice as many people lived here. 15 00:03:04,851 --> 00:03:09,221 We have documented the lives of some of these people. 16 00:03:09,356 --> 00:03:12,224 We will also touch on the conditions of yesteryear 17 00:03:12,359 --> 00:03:14,476 that are gradually disappearing. 18 00:03:32,629 --> 00:03:35,963 DEDICATED TO THE INHABITANTS OF FÅRÖ 19 00:05:42,259 --> 00:05:45,468 Richard Östman developed a severe headache 20 00:05:45,595 --> 00:05:48,838 when he read in the papers a few years back 21 00:05:49,015 --> 00:05:52,679 that a large cement company had applied for a concession 22 00:05:52,811 --> 00:05:56,020 to exploit sand off Salvorev and Sudersand. 23 00:05:56,815 --> 00:05:59,353 This headache was distilled into a poem... 24 00:05:59,734 --> 00:06:01,851 a remarkable occurrence, 25 00:06:01,987 --> 00:06:05,822 given that Richard never read or wrote poetry before. 26 00:06:06,408 --> 00:06:10,072 Since then he has written more than 500 poems. 27 00:06:12,706 --> 00:06:17,417 "I stole a rose, a wild rose of FĂ„rö 28 00:06:17,627 --> 00:06:22,088 A rose growing on the fair beaches of FĂ„rö 29 00:06:22,549 --> 00:06:25,508 I traced the date in the sand 30 00:06:25,677 --> 00:06:28,795 The sand that others intended to remove 31 00:06:29,514 --> 00:06:32,723 I heard the words of my forefathers: 32 00:06:32,893 --> 00:06:36,477 Do not defile the sand God gave to FĂ„rö 33 00:06:36,688 --> 00:06:41,149 If you do, the very nature of the island will be cast aside 34 00:06:41,359 --> 00:06:43,976 And we will be transported to another place." 35 00:06:44,905 --> 00:06:48,774 Anything you take from the sea, 36 00:06:48,909 --> 00:06:51,151 the sea will reclaim. 37 00:06:51,286 --> 00:06:55,747 If they'd taken sand from Salvorev, 38 00:06:55,874 --> 00:07:02,246 the sea would have taken sand from places such as Ullahau. 39 00:07:02,422 --> 00:07:05,836 The site that had been dug up 40 00:07:06,176 --> 00:07:09,419 would have to be replenished. 41 00:08:28,675 --> 00:08:30,712 Do you plan to move to Visby? 42 00:08:30,844 --> 00:08:34,929 Yes. There's no work for preschool teachers here. 43 00:08:35,390 --> 00:08:37,427 It didn't work out like that. 44 00:08:37,559 --> 00:08:42,179 I had a baby and had to give up plans to go to school. 45 00:08:42,731 --> 00:08:44,848 - Do you like FĂ„rö? - Sure. 46 00:08:45,108 --> 00:08:46,895 Sure, in the summertime. 47 00:08:47,027 --> 00:08:49,940 - Not during the winter? - No, it's boring here. 48 00:08:50,071 --> 00:08:52,438 - How do you like FĂ„rö? - It's nice. 49 00:08:52,866 --> 00:08:55,404 - I'm going to move. - Why? 50 00:08:55,535 --> 00:08:59,028 There are no jobs here and nothing to do. 51 00:08:59,497 --> 00:09:03,616 It was a different situation, living there as a child. 52 00:09:03,752 --> 00:09:07,291 You felt like you were missing out on things. 53 00:09:07,422 --> 00:09:11,166 Now I like going back because it's so nice and peaceful. 54 00:09:11,301 --> 00:09:12,508 It's different. 55 00:09:12,719 --> 00:09:16,884 I'm planning to move to the mainland fairly soon. 56 00:09:17,015 --> 00:09:19,723 Will you stay here on FĂ„rö or leave? 57 00:09:19,893 --> 00:09:21,350 I'm not sure. 58 00:09:22,103 --> 00:09:24,811 I work in an office 59 00:09:24,939 --> 00:09:28,432 and I maintain an index 60 00:09:28,568 --> 00:09:31,902 of all the customers we have here on Gotland. 61 00:09:32,280 --> 00:09:35,114 - Do you plan to stay? - No. 62 00:09:35,241 --> 00:09:36,948 Why not? 63 00:09:37,077 --> 00:09:39,239 There's nothing to do, 64 00:09:39,496 --> 00:09:41,988 and there aren't any jobs. 65 00:09:42,415 --> 00:09:44,702 I wanted to leave. 66 00:09:45,668 --> 00:09:47,751 At 15 I dreamed 67 00:09:47,921 --> 00:09:50,709 of going to Stockholm. 68 00:09:50,924 --> 00:09:53,382 - What are your plans? - I don't know. 69 00:09:53,510 --> 00:09:56,844 I went to business school in FĂ„rösund for a year. 70 00:09:56,971 --> 00:10:00,590 Then I worked at the Konsum co-op for six or seven years, 71 00:10:00,767 --> 00:10:02,929 then I switched fields. 72 00:10:07,565 --> 00:10:09,227 I think I'll probably leave. 73 00:10:09,359 --> 00:10:12,272 It's no fun. There's nothing to do. 74 00:10:13,780 --> 00:10:15,646 What's the nightlife like? 75 00:10:15,782 --> 00:10:18,616 That's just it. There's nothing to do. 76 00:10:19,160 --> 00:10:24,656 I just packed my bags and left. I had no job or anything. 77 00:10:24,791 --> 00:10:28,455 I had no problem getting a job once I was here. 78 00:10:29,295 --> 00:10:32,333 I couldn't leave this place. 79 00:10:32,465 --> 00:10:36,550 Growing up on an island, you want to be near the sea. 80 00:10:36,678 --> 00:10:39,170 It would be strange not seeing the water. 81 00:10:39,305 --> 00:10:42,013 It's all right here. 82 00:10:42,142 --> 00:10:44,475 It hasn't harmed me in any way. 83 00:10:44,644 --> 00:10:48,854 It's good to learn to get along with crowds. 84 00:10:49,774 --> 00:10:55,862 But it's not an ideal setting for children to grow up in, 85 00:10:56,364 --> 00:11:00,153 living in these high-rises. At least I don't think so. 86 00:11:00,326 --> 00:11:06,323 Going to FĂ„rö and looking out at the sea is liberating. 87 00:11:06,583 --> 00:11:08,996 You feel free. 88 00:12:18,488 --> 00:12:22,072 - Don't come here. - It's so darned slippery. 89 00:12:22,617 --> 00:12:24,404 Look out! 90 00:13:02,615 --> 00:13:04,572 He's behind you. 91 00:13:13,293 --> 00:13:15,080 Just walk him. 92 00:13:56,210 --> 00:14:01,330 I can enjoy the summer and the sunshine. 93 00:14:03,968 --> 00:14:06,836 I wish I could join in, but I can't. 94 00:14:07,930 --> 00:14:10,422 Then I met Anton. 95 00:14:10,558 --> 00:14:12,470 How old were you? 96 00:14:12,935 --> 00:14:15,097 Eighteen, I guess. 97 00:14:17,065 --> 00:14:19,307 And we got married when we were 19. 98 00:14:19,734 --> 00:14:23,273 I was born on the farm. It's been in the family a long time, 99 00:14:23,488 --> 00:14:25,400 since the 17th century. 100 00:14:27,200 --> 00:14:29,943 - Any siblings? - There were three of us. 101 00:14:30,536 --> 00:14:33,529 My sister Ellen is the oldest. 102 00:14:33,706 --> 00:14:37,416 She moved out when she got married. 103 00:14:38,961 --> 00:14:43,331 I took over the farm, and Erik had his own career. 104 00:14:43,466 --> 00:14:46,880 He started working at BungenĂ€s and then became a ship's pilot. 105 00:14:47,053 --> 00:14:49,215 How big is this farm? 106 00:14:49,597 --> 00:14:53,557 I have 21 acres of my own. 107 00:14:54,060 --> 00:14:55,972 And how much livestock? 108 00:14:56,437 --> 00:15:01,478 We have six cows and a few calves. 109 00:15:02,235 --> 00:15:04,443 I lease land too... 110 00:15:04,821 --> 00:15:10,033 about 40 acres down by the church. 111 00:15:10,910 --> 00:15:14,369 I work the land at 13 different locations. 112 00:15:14,789 --> 00:15:17,156 Do you think it's worth it? 113 00:15:17,917 --> 00:15:20,910 Well, a man's got to do something... 114 00:15:22,004 --> 00:15:23,916 either this or that. 115 00:15:24,090 --> 00:15:26,377 I've learned about keeping cows. 116 00:15:26,926 --> 00:15:29,760 Sure, I've had my share of bad luck. 117 00:15:29,929 --> 00:15:32,091 You have to give and take. 118 00:15:32,473 --> 00:15:36,262 Sometimes the cows get sick and have to be put down. 119 00:15:36,769 --> 00:15:39,352 Shipping costs from here are so high. 120 00:15:39,689 --> 00:15:43,353 Young people around here don't want to be farmers. 121 00:15:43,860 --> 00:15:49,026 In the old days, you kept a cow and a horse 122 00:15:49,282 --> 00:15:52,116 and tended your farm in your spare time 123 00:15:52,285 --> 00:15:54,572 and had another job too. 124 00:15:54,704 --> 00:15:58,744 But nowadays people want time off after work. 125 00:15:58,875 --> 00:16:00,616 The fire... 126 00:16:00,877 --> 00:16:03,210 how did it start? 127 00:16:03,337 --> 00:16:06,045 Our neighbor, Einar Söderdahl, 128 00:16:06,174 --> 00:16:08,632 came over around lunchtime 129 00:16:08,759 --> 00:16:12,343 and told us there was smoke coming out of our roof. 130 00:16:12,472 --> 00:16:16,386 We were about to have our usual coffee and tea. 131 00:16:18,936 --> 00:16:23,180 All we could do was grab the kids and rush outdoors. 132 00:16:24,442 --> 00:16:28,436 Anton took the fire extinguisher upstairs, 133 00:16:28,571 --> 00:16:32,565 but the whole place was in flames, so nothing could be done. 134 00:16:35,953 --> 00:16:37,615 What about the fire department? 135 00:16:37,747 --> 00:16:39,659 They came later on. 136 00:16:39,832 --> 00:16:43,997 The ferry didn't wait for the fire trucks. They were left behind. 137 00:16:44,170 --> 00:16:46,753 So the FĂ„rö Fire Department didn't get any assistance. 138 00:16:46,881 --> 00:16:49,715 There was no assistance from FĂ„rösund. 139 00:16:52,386 --> 00:16:55,754 The police figured a spark had been generated. 140 00:16:56,557 --> 00:17:00,517 It was a tile roof with wooden shingles underneath. 141 00:17:00,686 --> 00:17:03,599 Birds nested there. 142 00:17:03,731 --> 00:17:07,350 And they figured a flying spark had ignited a bird's nest. 143 00:17:07,527 --> 00:17:12,272 But that seems odd to me. The fire started indoors. 144 00:17:13,407 --> 00:17:15,273 Up in the attic. 145 00:17:15,409 --> 00:17:19,278 The kids were upstairs until it was time for coffee. 146 00:17:19,413 --> 00:17:21,370 They hadn't heard a thing. 147 00:17:21,499 --> 00:17:24,537 Fifteen minutes later, the place was in flames. 148 00:17:27,255 --> 00:17:30,373 Where did you and the children go? 149 00:17:30,550 --> 00:17:34,715 We stayed with Britt-Marie for a few months. 150 00:17:34,845 --> 00:17:39,761 Then we moved out to our old summer cottage in FifĂ„ng. 151 00:17:39,934 --> 00:17:42,176 We stayed there until December 21. 152 00:17:42,311 --> 00:17:45,054 There's no running water or electricity. 153 00:17:46,148 --> 00:17:50,392 We could make do at first, but after a while... 154 00:17:58,244 --> 00:18:00,236 It still affects you. 155 00:18:02,081 --> 00:18:04,494 What did your father think? 156 00:18:04,625 --> 00:18:06,912 It was even worse for him. 157 00:18:07,420 --> 00:18:09,036 It was? 158 00:18:09,505 --> 00:18:12,873 We had to go to the doctor and get him some medication. 159 00:18:13,009 --> 00:18:16,878 He went to pieces, which isn't strange at all. 160 00:18:17,263 --> 00:18:23,476 There were so many really old, irreplaceable items. 161 00:18:25,146 --> 00:18:27,354 Didn't you salvage anything? 162 00:18:27,481 --> 00:18:30,815 No, just a few kitchen chairs. 163 00:18:31,819 --> 00:18:33,560 Six chairs. 164 00:18:34,530 --> 00:18:38,069 It doesn't make sense. You get all muddled. 165 00:18:38,200 --> 00:18:40,362 You don't know what you're doing. 166 00:18:40,536 --> 00:18:43,279 It's true. You just don't. 167 00:18:47,001 --> 00:18:51,621 I went upstairs and got half of the sewing machine. 168 00:18:51,756 --> 00:18:53,713 I left the other half behind. 169 00:18:54,383 --> 00:18:58,844 You'd think I'd grab the other half too. 170 00:19:01,182 --> 00:19:03,299 How did the children react? 171 00:19:06,979 --> 00:19:09,892 It was awful. They were upset. 172 00:19:10,024 --> 00:19:12,357 They gave us pills for them too. 173 00:19:12,485 --> 00:19:15,398 Our 13-year-old, Ulla-Karin, took it the hardest. 174 00:19:17,323 --> 00:19:19,189 She'd cry at night 175 00:19:19,325 --> 00:19:22,614 and wake up shouting that the place was on fire. 176 00:19:23,496 --> 00:19:26,830 You have nine children. Do you worry a lot? 177 00:19:26,957 --> 00:19:28,414 No. 178 00:19:29,001 --> 00:19:31,243 I don't have the time. 179 00:19:32,588 --> 00:19:34,671 As they get older, 180 00:19:34,840 --> 00:19:38,754 they start helping out with the younger ones. 181 00:19:39,053 --> 00:19:42,842 At three or four, they could help change diapers. 182 00:19:43,265 --> 00:19:45,348 They learned how. 183 00:19:46,185 --> 00:19:48,598 So I think it's worked out well. 184 00:19:51,440 --> 00:19:54,183 Your in-laws lived with you. 185 00:19:54,360 --> 00:19:55,771 Yes, they did. 186 00:19:55,903 --> 00:19:58,520 Did your mother-in-law help you? 187 00:19:58,656 --> 00:20:01,524 No. She'd say, "You chose to have them, 188 00:20:01,659 --> 00:20:03,821 so you take care of them." 189 00:20:03,953 --> 00:20:06,240 So I never asked her for help. 190 00:20:16,757 --> 00:20:18,498 How big is this farm? 191 00:20:18,634 --> 00:20:21,217 Thirty acres of cleared land. 192 00:20:21,387 --> 00:20:25,722 There's 100 acres of woodland as well. 193 00:20:26,475 --> 00:20:31,266 Then there are the heaths, around as many acres. 194 00:20:31,480 --> 00:20:35,440 - And how much livestock? - Right now, four head of cattle, 195 00:20:35,609 --> 00:20:38,568 and I keep lambs and pigs. 196 00:21:28,704 --> 00:21:32,448 Valter Broman owns and runs the family farm. 197 00:21:32,625 --> 00:21:36,118 By FĂ„rö standards, it's a middle-sized farm. 198 00:21:36,754 --> 00:21:38,791 He's 67years old. 199 00:21:39,590 --> 00:21:42,048 Since his mother's death several years ago, 200 00:21:42,176 --> 00:21:46,090 he's chosen to live and work completely on his own. 201 00:22:05,699 --> 00:22:06,815 It's tied. 202 00:22:10,830 --> 00:22:12,662 Not bad. 203 00:22:12,832 --> 00:22:16,997 I don't think it changed anything. 204 00:22:17,169 --> 00:22:19,661 It was a good throw, regardless. 205 00:22:36,522 --> 00:22:37,979 Twenty. 206 00:22:47,449 --> 00:22:49,031 That's a good one. 207 00:22:49,368 --> 00:22:55,706 "The summer days of beauty 208 00:22:55,833 --> 00:23:01,170 In blessedness are come 209 00:23:01,297 --> 00:23:07,840 The flowers are rejoicing 210 00:23:07,970 --> 00:23:13,386 To feel the gleaming sun 211 00:23:13,517 --> 00:23:19,605 In grace arisen brightly 212 00:23:19,732 --> 00:23:25,069 O'er fields of golden grain 213 00:23:25,195 --> 00:23:31,066 So warm and all-restoring 214 00:23:31,368 --> 00:23:36,739 That nature lives again 215 00:23:38,334 --> 00:23:41,122 There is an earthly paradise 216 00:23:41,337 --> 00:23:44,125 Where roses grow tall 217 00:23:44,465 --> 00:23:46,878 And there, among the scarlet tulips 218 00:23:47,176 --> 00:23:50,886 My friends and I are content 219 00:23:51,180 --> 00:23:53,843 I amble along its beautiful paths 220 00:23:54,099 --> 00:23:57,012 Where flowers bow down 221 00:23:57,227 --> 00:24:00,561 I go up to the mighty oak 222 00:24:00,689 --> 00:24:03,272 And sit at her feet 223 00:24:03,651 --> 00:24:06,860 I whisper the name of my beloved 224 00:24:07,029 --> 00:24:10,238 And the oak begins to speak 225 00:24:10,449 --> 00:24:14,409 She tells me tales of days gone by 226 00:24:14,536 --> 00:24:17,950 And the birds in the trees respond 227 00:24:18,332 --> 00:24:22,872 I watch as night meets day 228 00:24:23,253 --> 00:24:25,961 And I hear singing of many birds 229 00:24:26,090 --> 00:24:28,833 Blend into a chorus 230 00:24:28,968 --> 00:24:31,460 And from the top of the oak 231 00:24:31,595 --> 00:24:34,429 I hear the cuckoo call" 232 00:24:37,184 --> 00:24:38,971 Now that I'm older... 233 00:24:39,103 --> 00:24:44,223 I have a pension and more time on my hands. 234 00:24:44,358 --> 00:24:50,320 At times, it felt like I just had to write. 235 00:24:50,447 --> 00:24:53,360 Otherwise my mind wouldn't let me rest. 236 00:24:53,492 --> 00:24:56,451 And sometimes... 237 00:24:56,578 --> 00:25:00,822 when I wake up at night and can't go back to sleep, 238 00:25:01,083 --> 00:25:06,670 if I've been to a spot during the day that I find beautiful, 239 00:25:06,797 --> 00:25:08,914 those images pop into my head. 240 00:25:09,049 --> 00:25:11,507 And as I lie there, 241 00:25:11,635 --> 00:25:16,847 the whole poem comes to me in the night. 242 00:25:17,141 --> 00:25:20,384 The problem comes after that, 243 00:25:20,519 --> 00:25:25,355 because I don't want to get up and write it down. 244 00:25:25,482 --> 00:25:27,474 I don't want to disturb Agda. 245 00:25:27,609 --> 00:25:30,693 If I don't write it down in the morning... 246 00:25:30,863 --> 00:25:35,028 say, if Agda needs my help... then it's very hard. 247 00:25:35,200 --> 00:25:37,362 But as long as... 248 00:25:37,536 --> 00:25:42,531 I jot my outlines down on a piece of cardboard or a box. 249 00:25:42,666 --> 00:25:45,750 So I could go into the barn 250 00:25:45,878 --> 00:25:49,872 and close the doors to be on my own. 251 00:25:50,132 --> 00:25:53,716 It was such a release to put it down in writing. 252 00:25:53,886 --> 00:25:59,757 I could barely remember it by heart at that point, 253 00:25:59,892 --> 00:26:02,054 but it felt good. 254 00:26:02,186 --> 00:26:09,525 I'd always carry pencil and paper on me. 255 00:26:09,651 --> 00:26:15,147 Norsholmen has beautiful rauka, or stone pillars. 256 00:26:15,282 --> 00:26:17,740 When I saw them, 257 00:26:17,910 --> 00:26:22,871 I immediately sat down and wrote a poem. 258 00:26:23,082 --> 00:26:27,201 My father was born here, and his father too. 259 00:26:27,336 --> 00:26:30,704 We go way back to the Vikings, I guess. 260 00:26:30,839 --> 00:26:33,752 - Were you born here on this farm? - Yes. 261 00:26:34,510 --> 00:26:37,548 In one of these rooms? 262 00:26:37,679 --> 00:26:39,762 Yes, right upstairs. 263 00:26:40,474 --> 00:26:42,306 How many siblings do you have? 264 00:26:42,434 --> 00:26:45,643 None. I had a sister, but she died young. 265 00:26:46,563 --> 00:26:50,102 My dream as a little boy 266 00:26:50,234 --> 00:26:55,229 was to be a veterinarian when I grew up. 267 00:26:55,864 --> 00:26:59,357 But as it turned out... 268 00:26:59,493 --> 00:27:03,533 we couldn't afford it. 269 00:27:03,664 --> 00:27:08,409 And my father felt that since he had a son, 270 00:27:08,544 --> 00:27:11,036 that son should take over the plow. 271 00:27:11,421 --> 00:27:14,164 I was planning to be a teacher. 272 00:27:16,176 --> 00:27:18,714 I went to school in Visby, 273 00:27:18,846 --> 00:27:21,680 but I had trouble with my eyes. 274 00:27:22,307 --> 00:27:25,926 - What kind of trouble? - Astigmatism. 275 00:27:26,186 --> 00:27:30,305 - They couldn't do anything? - I couldn't get any glasses. 276 00:27:30,649 --> 00:27:36,270 So I couldn't pass the vision test for teaching college. 277 00:27:37,322 --> 00:27:39,905 But I always read a lot, 278 00:27:40,033 --> 00:27:43,117 up until the last ten years or so. 279 00:27:43,370 --> 00:27:46,613 It was terribly hard work 280 00:27:46,748 --> 00:27:51,584 to plow the rocky fields in Norsholmen. 281 00:27:51,712 --> 00:27:55,626 I had to think about other things 282 00:27:56,091 --> 00:27:58,208 just to keep going. 283 00:27:58,343 --> 00:28:01,836 Was your mother prepared to make that financial sacrifice? 284 00:28:01,972 --> 00:28:06,387 Yes, she sold off half the farm when I was to start school. 285 00:28:06,518 --> 00:28:11,263 She couldn't have run the farm back in those days anyway. 286 00:28:11,607 --> 00:28:14,691 All those stone fences and all. 287 00:28:14,860 --> 00:28:20,072 She couldn't have taken care of all that alone. 288 00:28:20,657 --> 00:28:23,195 So we sold it. 289 00:28:23,577 --> 00:28:26,536 After my father's death, 290 00:28:26,830 --> 00:28:31,996 people became aware that I had certain skills. 291 00:28:32,127 --> 00:28:36,713 They'd send for me when there was a calving. 292 00:28:37,466 --> 00:28:43,463 Were you very disappointed when you weren't able to qualify? 293 00:28:43,597 --> 00:28:46,931 Of course. It was awful at first. 294 00:28:47,142 --> 00:28:49,634 But then you just accept it. 295 00:28:49,770 --> 00:28:55,687 Worse things can happen, like losing your sight completely. 296 00:28:55,817 --> 00:29:01,814 I just couldn't meet their specific requirements. 297 00:29:01,949 --> 00:29:05,238 At night people would come banging on the window. 298 00:29:05,410 --> 00:29:10,906 I've been to DĂ€mor, Lauter, SkĂ€r. 299 00:29:11,083 --> 00:29:16,920 I've been all over to help out with calving. 300 00:29:17,089 --> 00:29:21,925 I've helped people with their sheep too. 301 00:29:22,052 --> 00:29:25,591 Our math teacher was here one summer. 302 00:29:25,889 --> 00:29:29,473 She was from Visby, and she had a limp. 303 00:29:29,601 --> 00:29:32,014 Her name was Kristiansson. 304 00:29:32,145 --> 00:29:35,559 She had come to tutor the children at StengĂ„rden. 305 00:29:35,857 --> 00:29:37,894 She came to see me. 306 00:29:38,026 --> 00:29:40,939 This was after my mother had passed away. 307 00:29:41,113 --> 00:29:43,821 I was stirring these huge pots. 308 00:29:43,949 --> 00:29:46,657 We'd just had a meal when she came. 309 00:29:46,785 --> 00:29:48,822 I asked her in. 310 00:29:48,954 --> 00:29:52,948 Thirty people were outside having coffee after dinner, 311 00:29:53,125 --> 00:29:56,334 so we found a place to sit at the table. 312 00:29:56,461 --> 00:30:00,045 And the first thing she said was... 313 00:30:00,632 --> 00:30:03,466 "No, Agda, it wasn't meant to be like this, 314 00:30:03,593 --> 00:30:05,801 with that head of yours." 315 00:30:43,175 --> 00:30:44,882 Relax. 316 00:30:45,969 --> 00:30:48,052 You sure can kick. 317 00:32:01,086 --> 00:32:02,827 Here we go. 318 00:32:08,635 --> 00:32:10,342 Yes, you can. 319 00:33:08,153 --> 00:33:11,066 It seems like tourists come first 320 00:33:11,198 --> 00:33:13,531 and locals come second. 321 00:33:13,658 --> 00:33:16,321 Take the descendants of the people here, 322 00:33:16,453 --> 00:33:18,490 the ones who have returned, 323 00:33:18,788 --> 00:33:21,326 and young people who want to build here. 324 00:33:21,500 --> 00:33:25,790 Some have had to wait five years for a permit. 325 00:33:26,046 --> 00:33:29,665 Then you hear about summer guests 326 00:33:30,091 --> 00:33:32,458 who get a permit in three weeks. 327 00:33:33,178 --> 00:33:35,966 It's like they're keeping the year-round residents down, 328 00:33:36,097 --> 00:33:38,430 so we don't have a permanent population. 329 00:34:01,373 --> 00:34:03,410 Now for some statistics: 330 00:34:03,542 --> 00:34:07,331 Between June 15 and August 15, 1978, 331 00:34:07,462 --> 00:34:09,670 the ferry transported 332 00:34:09,798 --> 00:34:13,633 some 112, 000 cars and commercial vehicles. 333 00:34:13,885 --> 00:34:17,049 During a period of equal length in December-January... 334 00:34:17,180 --> 00:34:19,388 the number was just 16,000. 335 00:34:19,516 --> 00:34:23,226 We can't knock tourism. We get a lot of good people. 336 00:34:23,353 --> 00:34:25,936 But we also get certain categories of people. 337 00:34:26,064 --> 00:34:31,901 We've seen fishing boats here destroyed. 338 00:34:32,070 --> 00:34:36,656 And someone tore down a shed and grilled hot dogs with the wood. 339 00:34:37,075 --> 00:34:41,115 That's going too far. 340 00:34:41,246 --> 00:34:43,863 They're welcome if they leave things alone. 341 00:35:29,127 --> 00:35:30,789 What's the hardest part? 342 00:35:30,962 --> 00:35:32,794 The hay. 343 00:35:34,132 --> 00:35:38,217 It's heavy going, and it takes a lot of time. 344 00:35:38,345 --> 00:35:40,712 I spend many days outdoors. 345 00:35:41,264 --> 00:35:44,883 Poor weather makes it even tougher. 346 00:35:45,018 --> 00:35:47,635 It's hard to get the hay dry. 347 00:35:47,979 --> 00:35:50,471 It's a lot of work. 348 00:35:50,982 --> 00:35:53,315 But you never ask anyone to help out? 349 00:35:53,485 --> 00:35:55,943 No, I can handle it. 350 00:38:40,652 --> 00:38:45,147 Ingrid, it's been over ten years since I last spoke to you. 351 00:38:45,281 --> 00:38:47,398 What year? I don't remember. 352 00:38:47,534 --> 00:38:49,617 It was 1969, in April. 353 00:38:49,744 --> 00:38:52,202 We sat and talked. 354 00:38:52,330 --> 00:38:54,617 That's right. I ran the farm back then. 355 00:38:54,749 --> 00:38:57,241 - You're a farmer. - Yes. 356 00:38:57,377 --> 00:38:59,243 Since when? 357 00:38:59,379 --> 00:39:03,168 Since Dad died in '37. 358 00:39:03,675 --> 00:39:05,337 That's when you took over? 359 00:39:05,468 --> 00:39:07,585 Yes, though I worked during his illness too. 360 00:39:08,012 --> 00:39:10,254 My sister died... 361 00:39:10,932 --> 00:39:13,595 from cancer in 1957. 362 00:39:13,977 --> 00:39:17,971 That was hard. Per was just three years old. 363 00:39:18,106 --> 00:39:19,847 And the others? 364 00:39:20,024 --> 00:39:23,142 Malin was 14 and Jan was eight. 365 00:39:24,153 --> 00:39:26,361 And they moved in with you? 366 00:39:26,531 --> 00:39:29,774 No, they've always lived here. We lived together. 367 00:39:29,909 --> 00:39:32,026 That wasn't really a problem. 368 00:39:32,370 --> 00:39:35,363 They didn't have to move, which was a good thing. 369 00:39:35,498 --> 00:39:39,208 Can you tell me what's happened on the farm 370 00:39:39,377 --> 00:39:41,915 since we last spoke? 371 00:39:42,046 --> 00:39:44,379 Per took over the farm. 372 00:39:44,549 --> 00:39:48,543 He leases it now, but it will be his one day. 373 00:39:48,678 --> 00:39:51,386 - He was just 16 then, right? - Yes. 374 00:39:51,556 --> 00:39:55,095 - When did he take over? - 1972. 375 00:39:56,603 --> 00:39:59,812 He works construction now too, 376 00:39:59,939 --> 00:40:02,556 since you can't live off a small farm. 377 00:40:02,734 --> 00:40:05,317 You need modern machinery today. 378 00:40:05,445 --> 00:40:08,279 A horse and plow aren't enough. 379 00:40:08,531 --> 00:40:10,568 I do carpentry work too. 380 00:40:10,700 --> 00:40:14,910 You can't live off the farm. It's too small for that. 381 00:40:15,121 --> 00:40:17,955 This farm is too small for that. 382 00:40:18,082 --> 00:40:23,953 You need a bigger farm to make ends meet. 383 00:40:24,088 --> 00:40:27,672 It's hard to sell your products. 384 00:40:27,800 --> 00:40:31,339 It seems big farms have an easier time 385 00:40:31,471 --> 00:40:33,508 placing their products. 386 00:40:33,932 --> 00:40:39,769 It's like they keep us down, us smaller outfits. 387 00:40:40,104 --> 00:40:44,189 I don't really understand... 388 00:40:44,400 --> 00:40:47,484 the Liberal Party's farming policies. 389 00:40:47,612 --> 00:40:51,822 One aspect I dislike a great deal 390 00:40:51,950 --> 00:40:55,944 is that my nephew can't simply inherit the farm. 391 00:40:56,829 --> 00:41:01,949 In my opinion, relatives should be entitled to the land. 392 00:41:02,210 --> 00:41:07,046 When a farm's been in the family and then goes to someone else... 393 00:41:07,173 --> 00:41:11,838 I think the family ought to have first say. 394 00:41:12,512 --> 00:41:16,472 But of course you have to take care of the land. 395 00:41:16,641 --> 00:41:19,509 You can't be a "Sunday farmer." 396 00:41:20,603 --> 00:41:23,596 Young people should take precedence. 397 00:41:23,982 --> 00:41:27,146 I met Per... 398 00:41:28,319 --> 00:41:32,814 and I didn't know I'd be so involved with the animals. 399 00:41:33,950 --> 00:41:36,818 But I enjoy it. It's interesting. 400 00:41:37,078 --> 00:41:40,867 Most places will probably fold in the next ten years. 401 00:41:40,999 --> 00:41:43,241 But the people who stay on... 402 00:41:43,793 --> 00:41:45,830 will make a living. 403 00:41:47,755 --> 00:41:49,963 If the tourists don't take over. 404 00:41:50,299 --> 00:41:53,542 You've had some health problems. 405 00:41:53,678 --> 00:41:56,716 - Yes, that's true. - Like what? 406 00:41:56,848 --> 00:42:00,057 I was diagnosed with diabetes back in '72... 407 00:42:00,893 --> 00:42:03,180 and I couldn't handle... 408 00:42:03,312 --> 00:42:05,770 You must have had it before that. 409 00:42:05,898 --> 00:42:09,107 Yes, I just didn't realize it. 410 00:42:09,235 --> 00:42:13,024 - How did you find out? - I'd get very thirsty and tired. 411 00:42:13,197 --> 00:42:15,985 I'd fall asleep on my feet. 412 00:42:16,242 --> 00:42:18,780 That's how I found out. 413 00:42:19,954 --> 00:42:22,822 That must have been a strain. 414 00:42:22,957 --> 00:42:24,869 Yes, it was hard. 415 00:42:25,251 --> 00:42:28,744 Not having any strength was terrible. 416 00:42:28,880 --> 00:42:32,373 All I could manage was the cooking, 417 00:42:32,550 --> 00:42:35,714 and I don't enjoy cooking. 418 00:42:35,928 --> 00:42:39,512 I've always worked outdoors. I enjoy that. 419 00:42:40,016 --> 00:42:43,976 Last winter there was lots of lovely snow. 420 00:42:44,729 --> 00:42:46,470 No cars. 421 00:42:46,814 --> 00:42:48,680 That was the best part. 422 00:42:49,567 --> 00:42:53,060 And I like the fact there's a force 423 00:42:53,196 --> 00:42:55,688 that keeps man in check. 424 00:42:56,032 --> 00:42:59,651 The weather is proof of that. 425 00:43:00,244 --> 00:43:04,659 When I want to give Per a hand, but don't have the strength, 426 00:43:04,791 --> 00:43:08,250 that's pretty upsetting. 427 00:43:08,377 --> 00:43:11,586 I don't know what to expect from one day to the next. 428 00:43:11,714 --> 00:43:14,377 Some days I'm so tired. 429 00:43:14,509 --> 00:43:19,595 Per does the milking before he goes to work. 430 00:43:19,931 --> 00:43:24,346 Sometimes he packs his lunch. Sometimes I do it. 431 00:43:25,269 --> 00:43:27,602 And I clean the tank. 432 00:43:27,772 --> 00:43:29,934 We have a milk tank. 433 00:43:30,650 --> 00:43:33,267 I tend to the pigs too. 434 00:43:33,694 --> 00:43:37,233 I clear out the pig sty if I'm up to it. 435 00:43:37,365 --> 00:43:39,778 It's not that I have to do it. 436 00:43:39,951 --> 00:43:42,284 I enjoy puttering around. 437 00:44:09,647 --> 00:44:12,105 Do you miss being able to work hard? 438 00:44:12,233 --> 00:44:14,270 Oh, yes. 439 00:44:14,735 --> 00:44:17,819 Sometimes I still think I'm up to it, 440 00:44:17,947 --> 00:44:20,030 but I can't always manage. 441 00:44:20,158 --> 00:44:22,241 That isn't very much fun. 442 00:44:23,452 --> 00:44:26,035 I wish I could get well. 443 00:44:26,372 --> 00:44:30,742 I try and do what I can, but it isn't much. 444 00:44:31,919 --> 00:44:34,912 It's humiliating. 445 00:44:35,381 --> 00:44:38,374 That's how I feel when I can't manage things. 446 00:45:00,865 --> 00:45:04,700 Give it a good hard shove, Bernard. 447 00:45:04,827 --> 00:45:09,367 You have to put your back in it. Come from the other direction. 448 00:45:10,041 --> 00:45:13,375 That looks good now, 449 00:45:13,794 --> 00:45:18,129 but it sure looked strange this morning. 450 00:45:18,257 --> 00:45:21,466 I'd never seen anything like it. 451 00:45:22,720 --> 00:45:25,758 You must have been off your rocker, 452 00:45:25,890 --> 00:45:28,223 but it looks good now. 453 00:45:28,726 --> 00:45:31,969 Humble beginnings and all that, you know... 454 00:45:49,330 --> 00:45:52,243 I reckon it will stand up to rain now. 455 00:45:54,835 --> 00:45:59,421 I don't have any teeth, but I'll manage. 456 00:46:03,052 --> 00:46:05,840 Everything will be fine. 457 00:46:05,972 --> 00:46:09,431 I reckon this is the last time for me. 458 00:46:09,558 --> 00:46:11,675 The last time? No. 459 00:46:12,061 --> 00:46:14,895 You've just got a headache. 460 00:46:15,022 --> 00:46:17,605 It never goes away. 461 00:46:18,859 --> 00:46:22,443 - Well, you're 83, right? - Yes. 462 00:46:56,814 --> 00:47:01,684 Let's brush off the excess. 463 00:47:08,826 --> 00:47:12,740 All the way to the edge. 464 00:47:51,619 --> 00:47:54,953 There are reed marshes on FĂ„rö 465 00:47:55,081 --> 00:47:57,869 that one's not allowed to harvest. 466 00:47:58,000 --> 00:48:02,870 But there are many that can be harvested. 467 00:48:03,297 --> 00:48:09,419 The edges of these folded reeds are slightly barbed. 468 00:48:09,804 --> 00:48:11,887 They catch, you see. 469 00:48:13,140 --> 00:48:16,429 When you thatch roofs with these reeds... 470 00:48:17,186 --> 00:48:19,473 the reeds go flat, 471 00:48:19,605 --> 00:48:22,939 either with the flap side out, 472 00:48:23,526 --> 00:48:27,110 or with the spine side up. 473 00:48:27,238 --> 00:48:33,781 There will be other reeds around it... 474 00:48:33,911 --> 00:48:38,326 and water will run off in the channels. 475 00:48:39,583 --> 00:48:44,669 Once it has rained on a reed-thatched roof, 476 00:48:44,797 --> 00:48:48,336 moisture will never penetrate 477 00:48:48,717 --> 00:48:53,178 deeper than an inch. 478 00:48:53,305 --> 00:48:56,798 That's why reeds make first-class roofing 479 00:48:56,934 --> 00:48:59,176 for feed storage. 480 00:48:59,437 --> 00:49:04,023 If you keep livestock in a barn with a tin roof, 481 00:49:04,150 --> 00:49:08,645 you'll get condensation, and that can spoil hay, 482 00:49:08,779 --> 00:49:11,943 which never happens with a reed roof. 483 00:49:12,116 --> 00:49:14,608 And it doesn't burn. 484 00:49:14,743 --> 00:49:19,204 It just smolders and causes lots of smoke. 485 00:49:19,915 --> 00:49:25,035 People used to cut reeds by hand in the marshes. 486 00:49:25,171 --> 00:49:28,039 You couldn't use horses, 487 00:49:28,174 --> 00:49:30,632 and there were no tractors. 488 00:49:31,010 --> 00:49:36,347 Nowadays we use lightweight tractors and harvesters. 489 00:49:36,599 --> 00:49:42,391 We have nine loads down there. We need 20. 490 00:49:42,521 --> 00:49:45,013 I reckon that will be five loads, 491 00:49:45,149 --> 00:49:48,813 and we have the wetlands there that we cut this morning. 492 00:49:48,986 --> 00:49:54,152 How many loads did we get in the first bit? 493 00:49:54,325 --> 00:49:57,989 At least three. 494 00:49:59,038 --> 00:50:01,872 Then there's that stretch over there. 495 00:50:01,999 --> 00:50:09,623 That should amount to six or seven loads. 496 00:50:09,965 --> 00:50:13,379 Six and three makes nine... 497 00:50:15,513 --> 00:50:19,257 and nine and nine makes 18. That should be enough. 498 00:50:19,475 --> 00:50:24,846 This reed has a Latin name, but I can't remember it. 499 00:50:25,022 --> 00:50:28,686 It's so complicated that it always slips my mind. 500 00:54:46,617 --> 00:54:48,324 Am I fond of FĂ„rö? 501 00:54:48,452 --> 00:54:52,116 Yes, I suppose I am. 502 00:54:53,290 --> 00:54:56,124 It would be nice to have a change, though. 503 00:54:56,251 --> 00:54:58,618 But I'd like to live on Gotland. 504 00:54:59,546 --> 00:55:01,458 There isn't much to do. 505 00:55:01,673 --> 00:55:04,416 I want to stay here. 506 00:55:04,802 --> 00:55:06,634 I really like it here. 507 00:55:07,221 --> 00:55:09,964 Depends on if I can get a job. 508 00:55:10,349 --> 00:55:15,140 I'm going to look for work on the mainland or in FĂ„rösund. 509 00:55:15,521 --> 00:55:17,308 You can fish and stuff. 510 00:55:18,482 --> 00:55:20,064 I like it here. 511 00:55:20,484 --> 00:55:22,976 There are no jobs here. 512 00:55:23,320 --> 00:55:25,562 I don't know. 513 00:55:27,366 --> 00:55:30,859 - I like it here. - Anything you like in particular? 514 00:55:30,994 --> 00:55:33,862 It's not a lot of asphalt. 515 00:55:33,997 --> 00:55:36,660 Mostly grass and nature and trees. 516 00:55:37,167 --> 00:55:39,750 Yes, it's a fine little island. 517 00:59:04,166 --> 00:59:07,034 When I came here back in 1974, 518 00:59:07,210 --> 00:59:10,544 this school had just been remodeled. 519 00:59:10,714 --> 00:59:13,832 They had added a lunchroom 520 00:59:13,967 --> 00:59:15,959 and a gym. 521 00:59:16,094 --> 00:59:19,713 There was no gym here before that. 522 00:59:20,223 --> 00:59:25,218 So the kids were excited. 523 00:59:26,063 --> 00:59:28,931 Only there wasn't any equipment. 524 00:59:29,900 --> 00:59:34,235 There were sets of wall bars and some beams, but that was it. 525 00:59:34,529 --> 00:59:37,021 I called them up, 526 00:59:37,157 --> 00:59:41,492 but there wasn't enough money. 527 00:59:43,163 --> 00:59:45,029 At least not in the budget. 528 00:59:46,416 --> 00:59:50,956 So I contacted the person at the council 529 00:59:51,088 --> 00:59:56,334 in charge of supplies for physical education 530 00:59:56,468 --> 00:59:59,677 and asked if we could get some things. 531 00:59:59,805 --> 01:00:03,845 He said, "Make a list and send it to me." 532 01:00:04,309 --> 01:00:06,801 I thought, "That sounds easy!" 533 01:00:07,229 --> 01:00:11,894 So I made a list and waited. 534 01:00:12,025 --> 01:00:15,985 They sent us some jump ropes and a few balls, 535 01:00:16,113 --> 01:00:20,278 which was nice, but nothing else materialized. 536 01:00:20,450 --> 01:00:23,943 So I called the fellow a few months later. 537 01:00:24,412 --> 01:00:28,122 And he told me to make a list. 538 01:00:29,126 --> 01:00:32,915 "I already did," I said. "I sent it to you." 539 01:00:33,046 --> 01:00:36,630 "It must have gotten lost. Make up a new list." 540 01:00:36,758 --> 01:00:39,250 "Sure, I'll do that." 541 01:00:39,553 --> 01:00:43,513 By now I think I've sent five or six lists. 542 01:00:45,308 --> 01:00:51,521 Every year we've received one or two items on our list. 543 01:00:51,648 --> 01:00:54,061 So now, five years later, 544 01:00:54,192 --> 01:00:58,482 we're on our way to a more or less fully equipped gym. 545 01:00:58,655 --> 01:01:03,150 You get the feeling... the locals feel this way... 546 01:01:03,451 --> 01:01:09,288 that if you call the council, everyone is always busy. 547 01:01:09,416 --> 01:01:13,660 It's hard to get hold of the people in charge, 548 01:01:13,837 --> 01:01:20,175 and you may not know exactly who you're dealing with. 549 01:01:20,594 --> 01:01:24,338 An official from southern Gotland 550 01:01:24,514 --> 01:01:28,884 might be making decisions affecting FĂ„rö, or vice versa. 551 01:01:29,186 --> 01:01:32,770 The district is too large. That's not a good thing. 552 01:01:33,231 --> 01:01:36,975 The standards aren't as high 553 01:01:37,110 --> 01:01:39,853 out in the country. 554 01:01:39,988 --> 01:01:45,484 Your tax money doesn't provide what it does across the water. 555 01:01:46,536 --> 01:01:50,371 And that's disappointing, of course. 556 01:01:51,124 --> 01:01:54,492 You often feel passed over. 557 01:01:57,380 --> 01:01:59,997 That happens quite often... 558 01:02:01,676 --> 01:02:03,383 in my opinion. 559 01:03:13,832 --> 01:03:18,247 The rye that grew here on the chalky land was so fine. 560 01:03:18,378 --> 01:03:22,918 The flour was different from the flour produced 561 01:03:23,049 --> 01:03:26,713 from rye grown on humus soil. 562 01:03:26,845 --> 01:03:29,303 It gave bread a different color. 563 01:03:29,472 --> 01:03:35,013 My mother always preferred the rye grown here at Norsholmen 564 01:03:35,145 --> 01:03:41,642 for the special loaves she baked for Christmas. 565 01:03:42,444 --> 01:03:47,314 Regarding these stone fences... 566 01:03:47,449 --> 01:03:50,237 my ancestors told me... 567 01:03:51,328 --> 01:03:53,741 My father and mygrandfather told me 568 01:03:53,872 --> 01:03:56,831 that you should never have a stone fence 569 01:03:57,000 --> 01:04:00,164 along the southern edge of a field, 570 01:04:00,295 --> 01:04:04,289 because when snowdrifts remained on the ground, 571 01:04:04,424 --> 01:04:07,838 tender young crops would get moldy. 572 01:04:08,011 --> 01:04:12,346 The sun couldn't penetrate the stone fences. 573 01:04:12,474 --> 01:04:16,343 So you used stone fences only to the north of a field. 574 01:04:16,478 --> 01:04:22,349 To the east, west, and south, you used wooden fences. 575 01:04:22,484 --> 01:04:27,730 The sun would warm the wooden fences, 576 01:04:27,864 --> 01:04:30,857 so the snow would melt away better. 577 01:04:31,451 --> 01:04:36,537 This stone fence has been here a hundred years, maybe more. 578 01:04:36,748 --> 01:04:43,587 I helped build some of the fences on the other side. 579 01:04:43,713 --> 01:04:49,755 For those we gathered stones from the beach. 580 01:04:49,886 --> 01:04:55,507 You built them in stages, depending on the water level. 581 01:04:55,642 --> 01:04:58,510 When the tide was out, 582 01:04:58,645 --> 01:05:03,060 you could find more stones for building walls. 583 01:05:03,233 --> 01:05:07,193 The stones you found up on land 584 01:05:07,320 --> 01:05:10,484 were flat and brittle. 585 01:05:10,615 --> 01:05:13,904 They'd been exposed to the elements much longer. 586 01:05:14,035 --> 01:05:19,076 They weren't as strong as stones lying in the water. 587 01:06:43,958 --> 01:06:46,200 Start up the tractor. 588 01:07:22,121 --> 01:07:23,908 Damn, it's cold! 589 01:07:36,344 --> 01:07:38,176 Is there any more? 590 01:09:28,289 --> 01:09:30,576 Where do you want the cut, Otto? 591 01:09:35,672 --> 01:09:40,542 I thought I'd made the cut on the joint. 592 01:09:44,180 --> 01:09:47,423 You have to butcher it right. 593 01:09:48,851 --> 01:09:50,717 It takes some cutting. 594 01:10:30,893 --> 01:10:34,512 The hooves won't come off. 595 01:10:35,523 --> 01:10:37,606 Here we go... 596 01:10:43,239 --> 01:10:45,481 There goes the other one. 597 01:10:52,123 --> 01:10:53,910 Come on. 598 01:11:06,220 --> 01:11:08,212 I don't see very well. 599 01:11:09,974 --> 01:11:11,966 I'm getting too old. 600 01:11:17,231 --> 01:11:19,268 You used to be a master butcher. 601 01:11:19,442 --> 01:11:21,855 That was a long time ago. 602 01:11:23,821 --> 01:11:27,189 When I was 17 or 18, I slaughtered an ox. 603 01:11:27,325 --> 01:11:30,033 I had never done beef before. 604 01:11:31,204 --> 01:11:35,448 I just did my best, and it went well. 605 01:11:35,583 --> 01:11:37,290 Did you sharpen it? 606 01:11:37,460 --> 01:11:41,670 No, this was the one. 607 01:11:42,298 --> 01:11:44,415 That's a sharp knife. 608 01:11:49,764 --> 01:11:51,426 That's done. 609 01:12:07,740 --> 01:12:09,652 That's great. 610 01:12:11,494 --> 01:12:13,656 A little more. That's it. 611 01:12:24,841 --> 01:12:27,049 Just the head left. 612 01:12:47,196 --> 01:12:50,360 I'll hold the head up. 613 01:12:50,533 --> 01:12:53,446 Good. I'll get it up higher. 614 01:13:44,420 --> 01:13:48,505 Looks like winter's on its way. 615 01:13:50,551 --> 01:13:53,009 Even though it's unexpected. 616 01:13:53,429 --> 01:13:56,922 The water level's so low. 617 01:13:57,058 --> 01:14:00,142 That means it will get colder. 618 01:14:47,316 --> 01:14:49,148 It's freezing. 619 01:14:54,740 --> 01:14:57,153 Here it comes... 620 01:14:59,495 --> 01:15:02,909 This one's tricky. 621 01:15:03,499 --> 01:15:06,663 I'm tall, so I'll get it. 622 01:15:07,169 --> 01:15:12,836 The cats eat four times a day 623 01:15:13,175 --> 01:15:15,087 now that it's cold. 624 01:15:15,845 --> 01:15:17,882 Let's save a little for them. 625 01:15:22,518 --> 01:15:25,010 We'll put this one in the freezer. 626 01:15:33,529 --> 01:15:36,021 I wish it weren't so darn cold. 627 01:15:36,741 --> 01:15:38,357 My poor fingers. 628 01:15:43,873 --> 01:15:46,160 The lighthouse at FĂ„rö. 629 01:15:46,542 --> 01:15:48,204 Hello. 630 01:15:49,211 --> 01:15:52,045 I'm doing just fine, thanks. 631 01:15:53,591 --> 01:15:56,959 No, there's no snow falling right now. 632 01:15:57,094 --> 01:15:59,802 It's cleared up. 633 01:16:01,348 --> 01:16:03,886 Here's your data: 329. 634 01:16:04,727 --> 01:16:07,720 83605. 635 01:16:09,190 --> 01:16:11,853 Cross, cross, cross 52. 636 01:16:12,985 --> 01:16:16,069 853, cross, cross. 637 01:16:18,115 --> 01:16:20,607 553 cross. 638 01:16:21,118 --> 01:16:23,906 41805. 639 01:16:26,082 --> 01:16:30,042 And 00478. 640 01:16:31,170 --> 01:16:37,087 We use this thingamajig instead of manning the lighthouse. 641 01:16:38,260 --> 01:16:43,130 It serves FĂ„rö, Gotska Sandön, and Östergarn. 642 01:16:44,350 --> 01:16:49,562 This contraption sends reports to Norrköping 643 01:16:49,688 --> 01:16:52,431 if anything goes wrong. 644 01:16:52,858 --> 01:16:57,569 But a machine like this can never look out 645 01:16:57,696 --> 01:17:02,987 and see if there's a ship in distress. 646 01:21:46,276 --> 01:21:49,895 I was so tired and weak. 647 01:21:51,281 --> 01:21:55,025 I had to go to the hospital and have my appendix removed. 648 01:21:55,160 --> 01:21:57,868 Then came the diabetes. 649 01:21:58,122 --> 01:22:01,081 My health has been bad for five years now. 650 01:22:01,208 --> 01:22:05,498 They found out I had angina too. 651 01:22:05,754 --> 01:22:07,996 They gave me medication... 652 01:22:08,715 --> 01:22:10,957 and now I'm doing fine. 653 01:22:11,093 --> 01:22:13,836 The angina was very painful. 654 01:22:16,098 --> 01:22:18,090 Aches and pains... 655 01:22:18,392 --> 01:22:22,853 Mornings are the toughest part. 656 01:22:23,272 --> 01:22:26,731 You feel better once you getgoing. 657 01:26:23,887 --> 01:26:27,221 Saint Lucia 658 01:26:27,766 --> 01:26:31,806 Clear and bright vision 659 01:26:32,437 --> 01:26:36,306 Spread this winter night 660 01:26:36,692 --> 01:26:40,777 The luster of your beauty 661 01:26:41,029 --> 01:26:45,194 Dreams filled with winged vibration 662 01:26:45,575 --> 01:26:49,660 Tell of your revelation 663 01:26:49,955 --> 01:26:53,869 Light your white candles 664 01:26:54,209 --> 01:26:58,123 Saint Lucia 665 01:26:58,547 --> 01:27:02,541 Lo! 'Tis the Queen of Light 666 01:27:02,718 --> 01:27:06,678 Joyfully singing 667 01:27:06,888 --> 01:27:10,677 Clad in her garment white 668 01:27:10,934 --> 01:27:14,928 Wearing her crown of light 669 01:27:41,006 --> 01:27:42,918 - Thank you. - Take a cookie too. 670 01:27:43,049 --> 01:27:45,507 You had time to bake. 671 01:27:46,136 --> 01:27:47,968 That's not bad. 672 01:27:52,601 --> 01:27:55,139 Here's a small gift to remember us by. 673 01:27:55,270 --> 01:27:58,434 Thank you very much. 674 01:28:00,942 --> 01:28:02,934 Not many people around here today. 675 01:28:03,111 --> 01:28:08,277 No, they're with the children. 676 01:28:08,533 --> 01:28:10,365 Yes, that's right. 677 01:28:11,411 --> 01:28:15,200 I haven't seen this little fellow before. 678 01:28:15,332 --> 01:28:17,949 - Actually, you have. - Really? 679 01:28:18,084 --> 01:28:21,373 - He was at the confirmation. - Is that so? 680 01:28:23,173 --> 01:28:26,507 In the name of God, our merciful Father, 681 01:28:26,635 --> 01:28:29,548 we commit the body of Adolf Mikael Johannes Ekström 682 01:28:29,679 --> 01:28:32,046 to the peace of the grave. 683 01:28:41,691 --> 01:28:44,149 From dust you came... 684 01:28:49,491 --> 01:28:52,154 To dust you shall return... 685 01:28:56,915 --> 01:29:02,502 Jesus Christ, our Savior, shall raise you up on the last day. 686 01:29:03,088 --> 01:29:07,002 We were in the barn. The children were in school. 687 01:29:07,175 --> 01:29:10,794 Victoria had made coffee and set out some cake. 688 01:29:11,346 --> 01:29:15,340 When we were finished in the barn, we tended to the lambs. 689 01:29:15,851 --> 01:29:18,810 We were busy with the newborn lambs, 690 01:29:18,937 --> 01:29:22,476 so I guess it must have been around 8:30. 691 01:29:23,775 --> 01:29:27,644 When we came in, Victoria said... 692 01:29:27,863 --> 01:29:31,823 "Gramps hasn't gotten up for his tea." 693 01:29:32,033 --> 01:29:36,027 I said maybe he wasn't feeling well, and I went to his room. 694 01:29:36,204 --> 01:29:40,744 He lay in bed. I touched his hand, and he was all stiff. 695 01:29:41,376 --> 01:29:43,368 Stiff as a board. 696 01:29:59,227 --> 01:30:03,437 He didn't feel well if he wasn't outdoors. 697 01:30:03,565 --> 01:30:06,729 Rain or shine, even if it was slippery out. 698 01:30:06,902 --> 01:30:10,191 He couldn't walk very well after he hurt his head. 699 01:30:10,322 --> 01:30:12,860 We often told him to stay indoors. 700 01:30:12,991 --> 01:30:16,735 We were afraid he'd fall and hurt himself. 701 01:30:17,495 --> 01:30:21,079 But he just had to be outdoors. 702 01:30:40,435 --> 01:30:43,178 "We are all like leaves upon the ground 703 01:30:43,772 --> 01:30:47,436 Storms would howl, but I never grew weary 704 01:30:47,609 --> 01:30:50,852 I fought the wind that shook me 705 01:30:51,780 --> 01:30:55,615 I understood the purpose of it all 706 01:30:56,242 --> 01:30:59,451 Our struggles lead us to your gates 707 01:31:00,288 --> 01:31:04,282 Let me fall without a sound far out of sight 708 01:31:04,584 --> 01:31:07,452 Let me wake in a shimmering meadow 709 01:31:07,963 --> 01:31:11,707 Let me make my way like a turning leaf 710 01:31:12,425 --> 01:31:15,293 To the familiar strains of my country's own song 711 01:31:16,388 --> 01:31:20,803 I sleep in peace in my Father's arms 712 01:31:21,476 --> 01:31:24,310 And I will wake up in another place 713 01:31:24,646 --> 01:31:27,684 No longer do storms ravage me 714 01:31:28,650 --> 01:31:32,985 And my working days are done" 715 01:33:26,101 --> 01:33:30,516 There was a fishing boom on FĂ„rö during WWII and right after. 716 01:33:30,647 --> 01:33:33,765 By the time I got started, there wasn't much left. 717 01:33:33,942 --> 01:33:37,276 There were only two boats in operation. 718 01:33:38,446 --> 01:33:41,530 This one has a gross weight of 44 tons. 719 01:33:42,784 --> 01:33:45,868 She's a 56-footer. 720 01:33:46,329 --> 01:33:50,448 The vessel had to be less than ten years old to qualify for a loan. 721 01:33:50,875 --> 01:33:53,538 And there was a 50-foot minimum too. 722 01:33:53,670 --> 01:33:58,631 There wasn't a lot to choose from, but we thought this was a good ship. 723 01:33:58,758 --> 01:34:01,296 It cost 200,000 kronor. 724 01:34:01,803 --> 01:34:06,298 Then there's equipment too. You need more than just the boat. 725 01:34:08,059 --> 01:34:10,472 The equipment cost just as much. 726 01:34:11,646 --> 01:34:14,889 For two years, they're straight loans. 727 01:34:15,024 --> 01:34:17,937 Then you pay them off in ten years 728 01:34:18,069 --> 01:34:19,981 at five percent. 729 01:34:20,155 --> 01:34:26,152 That's the only benefit the state provides for salmon fishing. 730 01:34:26,786 --> 01:34:30,826 But it's pretty decent of the state to do that. 731 01:36:48,303 --> 01:36:51,421 - Where are your fishing grounds? - All over... 732 01:36:51,556 --> 01:36:55,345 from the Gulf of Bothnia to GdaƄsk Bay. 733 01:36:55,476 --> 01:37:01,598 We can fish in Finnish, Polish, and Russian waters. 734 01:37:01,899 --> 01:37:07,270 The Polish authorities want you to report your catch. 735 01:37:07,530 --> 01:37:11,490 And the same for Russia. We just got notified a week ago. 736 01:37:11,659 --> 01:37:15,152 But we can run up to the Gulf of Bothnia 737 01:37:15,288 --> 01:37:17,496 and down to GdaƄsk Bay 738 01:37:17,665 --> 01:37:21,830 to get to where the fish are, or where we think they are. 739 01:37:22,003 --> 01:37:23,744 What's your top speed? 740 01:37:23,880 --> 01:37:25,997 Eight knots. 741 01:37:26,132 --> 01:37:28,465 And you can be out for 24 hours? 742 01:37:28,593 --> 01:37:31,961 Sure. Sometimes even longer. 743 01:38:49,090 --> 01:38:53,255 We can use 600 nets per boat, or 2,000 salmon hooks. 744 01:38:53,594 --> 01:38:56,132 That's your daily quota. 745 01:38:57,265 --> 01:39:00,508 We stick to that... 746 01:39:01,853 --> 01:39:05,563 but the old quota was 700-900 nets. 747 01:39:05,690 --> 01:39:08,649 - Doesn't that make you angry? - Sure it does. 748 01:39:09,068 --> 01:39:14,154 The same rules should apply to everyone. 749 01:39:14,282 --> 01:39:17,446 They say the fish population in the Baltic Sea 750 01:39:17,577 --> 01:39:19,785 is being depleted. 751 01:39:20,329 --> 01:39:23,948 That's right. That may well be the case. 752 01:39:24,792 --> 01:39:27,910 They let the West Coast trawlers fish these waters. 753 01:39:28,421 --> 01:39:31,004 They fished here all spring. 754 01:39:31,382 --> 01:39:35,126 They depleted the herring in the Atlantic, 755 01:39:35,303 --> 01:39:39,013 and that's a bigger body of water than the Baltic Sea. 756 01:39:39,765 --> 01:39:44,009 So I figure the process... 757 01:39:45,062 --> 01:39:47,349 will go faster here. 758 01:39:47,482 --> 01:39:50,099 If they can stop this drain 759 01:39:50,234 --> 01:39:52,647 on the herring and sprat populations... 760 01:39:52,945 --> 01:39:54,857 That's what the salmon feed on. 761 01:39:54,989 --> 01:39:57,276 No food, no salmon. 762 01:39:57,408 --> 01:40:00,867 If you get 600 fish in ten days, that's fine. 763 01:40:00,995 --> 01:40:02,952 That's a fair haul. 764 01:40:03,080 --> 01:40:06,824 The salmon must measure 23 inches. 765 01:40:07,084 --> 01:40:09,497 We throw the smaller ones back. 766 01:40:09,629 --> 01:40:13,293 We can't sell them. No one will take them. 767 01:40:13,633 --> 01:40:15,465 Where do you sell your catch? 768 01:40:15,593 --> 01:40:19,382 Mainly to Gotlands Fisk, and a little to the mainland. 769 01:40:19,514 --> 01:40:21,301 Who sets the prices? 770 01:40:21,432 --> 01:40:24,049 I don't know, but they vary. 771 01:40:24,644 --> 01:40:28,354 They can vary by three to four kronor per class. 772 01:40:28,481 --> 01:40:31,690 There are different classes of salmon: 773 01:40:32,276 --> 01:40:34,188 2-3, 3-4, 774 01:40:34,320 --> 01:40:36,528 4-5, 5-7, 7-9. 775 01:40:36,697 --> 01:40:40,532 - What does that mean? - You get 20 kronor for the lowest class. 776 01:40:40,701 --> 01:40:44,035 And up to 40 kronor for the highest, per kilo. 777 01:40:44,205 --> 01:40:49,200 Those prices can vary, depending on the buyer. 778 01:40:50,461 --> 01:40:53,795 We aren't allowed to fish between June 1 and August 25. 779 01:40:53,923 --> 01:40:57,132 But the water's too warm then for fishing anyway. 780 01:40:57,260 --> 01:41:02,051 As of August 25, we have to work every day we can. 781 01:41:02,223 --> 01:41:06,342 We can be out six days before needing to come ashore. 782 01:41:06,477 --> 01:41:10,812 Later, in October and November, we can stay out ten days. 783 01:41:10,940 --> 01:41:13,227 Then we set out again. 784 01:41:13,359 --> 01:41:16,067 We only stay in port if it's too windy. 785 01:41:16,362 --> 01:41:21,027 You look forward to the 25th, so you can set out again. 786 01:41:21,409 --> 01:41:24,573 Once you've got the bug, you can't quit. 787 01:41:25,997 --> 01:41:28,831 My FĂ„rö Document from 1969 788 01:41:28,958 --> 01:41:31,792 ended with a bleak prognosis. 789 01:41:31,919 --> 01:41:34,377 FĂ„rö was a dying district. 790 01:41:34,505 --> 01:41:36,792 The young people were leaving. 791 01:41:36,924 --> 01:41:40,213 All forms of public services were on the wane. 792 01:41:40,344 --> 01:41:42,711 The fishing industry no longer existed. 793 01:41:42,847 --> 01:41:45,555 There were few jobs available. 794 01:41:46,517 --> 01:41:48,975 The future was projected in this way: 795 01:41:49,103 --> 01:41:52,972 For six weeks each summer, this sparsely populated island 796 01:41:53,107 --> 01:41:57,101 would be reduced to a bizarre tourist paradise for mainlanders 797 01:41:57,278 --> 01:42:00,487 and Social Democrat bigwigs on vacation. 798 01:42:01,824 --> 01:42:04,567 That nightmarish vision hasn't come true. 799 01:42:05,620 --> 01:42:09,239 Though residents here don't have it any better now, 800 01:42:09,373 --> 01:42:11,956 things haven'tgotten any worse either. 801 01:42:12,126 --> 01:42:15,369 In one respect there's been a radical change: 802 01:42:16,297 --> 01:42:20,291 The young people no longer look down on FĂ„rö. 803 01:42:20,426 --> 01:42:24,466 They're prepared to stay on and try to make the best 804 01:42:24,889 --> 01:42:29,634 of the less-than-stellar circumstances. 805 01:42:29,810 --> 01:42:32,018 And FĂ„rö has an asset 806 01:42:32,146 --> 01:42:35,105 that other sparsely populated regions lack: 807 01:42:35,232 --> 01:42:38,646 It's becoming more and more popular with tourists. 808 01:42:39,487 --> 01:42:43,822 If the authorities could act in an open-minded fashion 809 01:42:43,991 --> 01:42:48,702 and help the people of FĂ„rö build cottages on their own property 810 01:42:48,829 --> 01:42:51,071 fit for year-round rental, 811 01:42:51,457 --> 01:42:54,666 that would generate a modest increase in prosperity 812 01:42:54,794 --> 01:42:57,161 and many promising job opportunities. 813 01:43:29,328 --> 01:43:34,198 Hopefully, the next FĂ„rö Document will be completed in 1989. 814 01:43:34,792 --> 01:43:37,876 It will be interesting to see if we're still around. 63001

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