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DIGITALLY RESTORED IN 2017
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More than 300 million years ago,
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this island emerged
from the warm Silurian sea.
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00:02:24,186 --> 00:02:28,681
The bedrock features fossils
of ancient coral, shellfish,
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00:02:28,815 --> 00:02:31,273
and other mysterious species.
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00:02:32,361 --> 00:02:35,399
FÄrö was originally known as "Faröy,"
thought to mean
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00:02:35,530 --> 00:02:38,068
"the island to which one journeyed"
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00:02:38,325 --> 00:02:40,658
or "the traveler's island."
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00:02:41,161 --> 00:02:43,904
Several theories exist
as to the origin of the name.
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00:02:44,039 --> 00:02:46,827
In olden times,
the island was a link
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00:02:46,958 --> 00:02:49,917
connecting the active
maritime routes on the Baltic.
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00:02:50,545 --> 00:02:55,381
FÄrö may also have been a sanctuary
for people less welcome elsewhere.
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00:02:56,885 --> 00:03:00,754
At present, the island of FÄrö
has 673 inhabitants.
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00:03:00,889 --> 00:03:04,178
Fifty years ago, nearly twice
as many people lived here.
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00:03:04,851 --> 00:03:09,221
We have documented the lives
of some of these people.
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00:03:09,356 --> 00:03:12,224
We will also touch
on the conditions of yesteryear
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00:03:12,359 --> 00:03:14,476
that are gradually disappearing.
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00:03:32,629 --> 00:03:35,963
DEDICATED
TO THE INHABITANTS OF FĂ RĂ
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00:05:42,259 --> 00:05:45,468
Richard Ăstman
developed a severe headache
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00:05:45,595 --> 00:05:48,838
when he read in the papers
a few years back
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00:05:49,015 --> 00:05:52,679
that a large cement company
had applied for a concession
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00:05:52,811 --> 00:05:56,020
to exploit sand
off Salvorev and Sudersand.
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00:05:56,815 --> 00:05:59,353
This headache
was distilled into a poem...
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00:05:59,734 --> 00:06:01,851
a remarkable occurrence,
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00:06:01,987 --> 00:06:05,822
given that Richard never read
or wrote poetry before.
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00:06:06,408 --> 00:06:10,072
Since then he has written
more than 500 poems.
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00:06:12,706 --> 00:06:17,417
"I stole a rose,
a wild rose of FÄrö
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00:06:17,627 --> 00:06:22,088
A rose growing
on the fair beaches of FÄrö
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00:06:22,549 --> 00:06:25,508
I traced the date in the sand
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00:06:25,677 --> 00:06:28,795
The sand that others
intended to remove
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00:06:29,514 --> 00:06:32,723
I heard the words of my forefathers:
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00:06:32,893 --> 00:06:36,477
Do not defile the sand
God gave to FÄrö
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00:06:36,688 --> 00:06:41,149
If you do, the very nature
of the island will be cast aside
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00:06:41,359 --> 00:06:43,976
And we will be transported
to another place."
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00:06:44,905 --> 00:06:48,774
Anything you take from the sea,
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00:06:48,909 --> 00:06:51,151
the sea will reclaim.
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00:06:51,286 --> 00:06:55,747
If they'd taken sand from Salvorev,
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00:06:55,874 --> 00:07:02,246
the sea would have taken sand
from places such as Ullahau.
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00:07:02,422 --> 00:07:05,836
The site that had been dug up
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00:07:06,176 --> 00:07:09,419
would have to be replenished.
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00:08:28,675 --> 00:08:30,712
Do you plan to move to Visby?
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00:08:30,844 --> 00:08:34,929
Yes. There's no work
for preschool teachers here.
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00:08:35,390 --> 00:08:37,427
It didn't work out like that.
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00:08:37,559 --> 00:08:42,179
I had a baby and had
to give up plans to go to school.
45
00:08:42,731 --> 00:08:44,848
- Do you like FÄrö?
- Sure.
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00:08:45,108 --> 00:08:46,895
Sure, in the summertime.
47
00:08:47,027 --> 00:08:49,940
- Not during the winter?
- No, it's boring here.
48
00:08:50,071 --> 00:08:52,438
- How do you like FÄrö?
- It's nice.
49
00:08:52,866 --> 00:08:55,404
- I'm going to move.
- Why?
50
00:08:55,535 --> 00:08:59,028
There are no jobs here
and nothing to do.
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00:08:59,497 --> 00:09:03,616
It was a different situation,
living there as a child.
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00:09:03,752 --> 00:09:07,291
You felt like you were
missing out on things.
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00:09:07,422 --> 00:09:11,166
Now I like going back because
it's so nice and peaceful.
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00:09:11,301 --> 00:09:12,508
It's different.
55
00:09:12,719 --> 00:09:16,884
I'm planning to move
to the mainland fairly soon.
56
00:09:17,015 --> 00:09:19,723
Will you stay
here on FÄrö or leave?
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00:09:19,893 --> 00:09:21,350
I'm not sure.
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00:09:22,103 --> 00:09:24,811
I work in an office
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00:09:24,939 --> 00:09:28,432
and I maintain an index
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00:09:28,568 --> 00:09:31,902
of all the customers
we have here on Gotland.
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00:09:32,280 --> 00:09:35,114
- Do you plan to stay?
- No.
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00:09:35,241 --> 00:09:36,948
Why not?
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00:09:37,077 --> 00:09:39,239
There's nothing to do,
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00:09:39,496 --> 00:09:41,988
and there aren't any jobs.
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00:09:42,415 --> 00:09:44,702
I wanted to leave.
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00:09:45,668 --> 00:09:47,751
At 15 I dreamed
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00:09:47,921 --> 00:09:50,709
of going to Stockholm.
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00:09:50,924 --> 00:09:53,382
- What are your plans?
- I don't know.
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00:09:53,510 --> 00:09:56,844
I went to business school
in FÄrösund for a year.
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00:09:56,971 --> 00:10:00,590
Then I worked at the Konsum co-op
for six or seven years,
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00:10:00,767 --> 00:10:02,929
then I switched fields.
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00:10:07,565 --> 00:10:09,227
I think I'll probably leave.
73
00:10:09,359 --> 00:10:12,272
It's no fun.
There's nothing to do.
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00:10:13,780 --> 00:10:15,646
What's the nightlife like?
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00:10:15,782 --> 00:10:18,616
That's just it.
There's nothing to do.
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00:10:19,160 --> 00:10:24,656
I just packed my bags and left.
I had no job or anything.
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00:10:24,791 --> 00:10:28,455
I had no problem
getting a job once I was here.
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00:10:29,295 --> 00:10:32,333
I couldn't leave this place.
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00:10:32,465 --> 00:10:36,550
Growing up on an island,
you want to be near the sea.
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00:10:36,678 --> 00:10:39,170
It would be strange
not seeing the water.
81
00:10:39,305 --> 00:10:42,013
It's all right here.
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00:10:42,142 --> 00:10:44,475
It hasn't harmed me in any way.
83
00:10:44,644 --> 00:10:48,854
It's good to learn
to get along with crowds.
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00:10:49,774 --> 00:10:55,862
But it's not an ideal setting
for children to grow up in,
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00:10:56,364 --> 00:11:00,153
living in these high-rises.
At least I don't think so.
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00:11:00,326 --> 00:11:06,323
Going to FÄrö and looking out
at the sea is liberating.
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00:11:06,583 --> 00:11:08,996
You feel free.
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00:12:18,488 --> 00:12:22,072
- Don't come here.
- It's so darned slippery.
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00:12:22,617 --> 00:12:24,404
Look out!
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00:13:02,615 --> 00:13:04,572
He's behind you.
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00:13:13,293 --> 00:13:15,080
Just walk him.
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00:13:56,210 --> 00:14:01,330
I can enjoy the summer
and the sunshine.
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00:14:03,968 --> 00:14:06,836
I wish I could join in, but I can't.
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00:14:07,930 --> 00:14:10,422
Then I met Anton.
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00:14:10,558 --> 00:14:12,470
How old were you?
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00:14:12,935 --> 00:14:15,097
Eighteen, I guess.
97
00:14:17,065 --> 00:14:19,307
And we got married
when we were 19.
98
00:14:19,734 --> 00:14:23,273
I was born on the farm.
It's been in the family a long time,
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00:14:23,488 --> 00:14:25,400
since the 17th century.
100
00:14:27,200 --> 00:14:29,943
- Any siblings?
- There were three of us.
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00:14:30,536 --> 00:14:33,529
My sister Ellen is the oldest.
102
00:14:33,706 --> 00:14:37,416
She moved out
when she got married.
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00:14:38,961 --> 00:14:43,331
I took over the farm,
and Erik had his own career.
104
00:14:43,466 --> 00:14:46,880
He started working at BungenÀs
and then became a ship's pilot.
105
00:14:47,053 --> 00:14:49,215
How big is this farm?
106
00:14:49,597 --> 00:14:53,557
I have 21 acres of my own.
107
00:14:54,060 --> 00:14:55,972
And how much livestock?
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00:14:56,437 --> 00:15:01,478
We have six cows
and a few calves.
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00:15:02,235 --> 00:15:04,443
I lease land too...
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00:15:04,821 --> 00:15:10,033
about 40 acres down by the church.
111
00:15:10,910 --> 00:15:14,369
I work the land
at 13 different locations.
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00:15:14,789 --> 00:15:17,156
Do you think it's worth it?
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00:15:17,917 --> 00:15:20,910
Well, a man's got to do something...
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00:15:22,004 --> 00:15:23,916
either this or that.
115
00:15:24,090 --> 00:15:26,377
I've learned about keeping cows.
116
00:15:26,926 --> 00:15:29,760
Sure, I've had
my share of bad luck.
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00:15:29,929 --> 00:15:32,091
You have to give and take.
118
00:15:32,473 --> 00:15:36,262
Sometimes the cows get sick
and have to be put down.
119
00:15:36,769 --> 00:15:39,352
Shipping costs
from here are so high.
120
00:15:39,689 --> 00:15:43,353
Young people around here
don't want to be farmers.
121
00:15:43,860 --> 00:15:49,026
In the old days,
you kept a cow and a horse
122
00:15:49,282 --> 00:15:52,116
and tended your farm
in your spare time
123
00:15:52,285 --> 00:15:54,572
and had another job too.
124
00:15:54,704 --> 00:15:58,744
But nowadays people want
time off after work.
125
00:15:58,875 --> 00:16:00,616
The fire...
126
00:16:00,877 --> 00:16:03,210
how did it start?
127
00:16:03,337 --> 00:16:06,045
Our neighbor, Einar Söderdahl,
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00:16:06,174 --> 00:16:08,632
came over around lunchtime
129
00:16:08,759 --> 00:16:12,343
and told us there was smoke
coming out of our roof.
130
00:16:12,472 --> 00:16:16,386
We were about to have
our usual coffee and tea.
131
00:16:18,936 --> 00:16:23,180
All we could do was grab the kids
and rush outdoors.
132
00:16:24,442 --> 00:16:28,436
Anton took
the fire extinguisher upstairs,
133
00:16:28,571 --> 00:16:32,565
but the whole place was in flames,
so nothing could be done.
134
00:16:35,953 --> 00:16:37,615
What about the fire department?
135
00:16:37,747 --> 00:16:39,659
They came later on.
136
00:16:39,832 --> 00:16:43,997
The ferry didn't wait for the fire trucks.
They were left behind.
137
00:16:44,170 --> 00:16:46,753
So the FÄrö Fire Department
didn't get any assistance.
138
00:16:46,881 --> 00:16:49,715
There was no assistance
from FÄrösund.
139
00:16:52,386 --> 00:16:55,754
The police figured a spark
had been generated.
140
00:16:56,557 --> 00:17:00,517
It was a tile roof
with wooden shingles underneath.
141
00:17:00,686 --> 00:17:03,599
Birds nested there.
142
00:17:03,731 --> 00:17:07,350
And they figured a flying spark
had ignited a bird's nest.
143
00:17:07,527 --> 00:17:12,272
But that seems odd to me.
The fire started indoors.
144
00:17:13,407 --> 00:17:15,273
Up in the attic.
145
00:17:15,409 --> 00:17:19,278
The kids were upstairs
until it was time for coffee.
146
00:17:19,413 --> 00:17:21,370
They hadn't heard a thing.
147
00:17:21,499 --> 00:17:24,537
Fifteen minutes later,
the place was in flames.
148
00:17:27,255 --> 00:17:30,373
Where did you
and the children go?
149
00:17:30,550 --> 00:17:34,715
We stayed with Britt-Marie
for a few months.
150
00:17:34,845 --> 00:17:39,761
Then we moved out
to our old summer cottage in FifÄng.
151
00:17:39,934 --> 00:17:42,176
We stayed there
until December 21.
152
00:17:42,311 --> 00:17:45,054
There's no running water
or electricity.
153
00:17:46,148 --> 00:17:50,392
We could make do at first,
but after a while...
154
00:17:58,244 --> 00:18:00,236
It still affects you.
155
00:18:02,081 --> 00:18:04,494
What did your father think?
156
00:18:04,625 --> 00:18:06,912
It was even worse for him.
157
00:18:07,420 --> 00:18:09,036
It was?
158
00:18:09,505 --> 00:18:12,873
We had to go to the doctor
and get him some medication.
159
00:18:13,009 --> 00:18:16,878
He went to pieces,
which isn't strange at all.
160
00:18:17,263 --> 00:18:23,476
There were so many
really old, irreplaceable items.
161
00:18:25,146 --> 00:18:27,354
Didn't you salvage anything?
162
00:18:27,481 --> 00:18:30,815
No, just a few kitchen chairs.
163
00:18:31,819 --> 00:18:33,560
Six chairs.
164
00:18:34,530 --> 00:18:38,069
It doesn't make sense.
You get all muddled.
165
00:18:38,200 --> 00:18:40,362
You don't know what you're doing.
166
00:18:40,536 --> 00:18:43,279
It's true. You just don't.
167
00:18:47,001 --> 00:18:51,621
I went upstairs and got half
of the sewing machine.
168
00:18:51,756 --> 00:18:53,713
I left the other half behind.
169
00:18:54,383 --> 00:18:58,844
You'd think I'd grab
the other half too.
170
00:19:01,182 --> 00:19:03,299
How did the children react?
171
00:19:06,979 --> 00:19:09,892
It was awful. They were upset.
172
00:19:10,024 --> 00:19:12,357
They gave us pills for them too.
173
00:19:12,485 --> 00:19:15,398
Our 13-year-old, Ulla-Karin,
took it the hardest.
174
00:19:17,323 --> 00:19:19,189
She'd cry at night
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00:19:19,325 --> 00:19:22,614
and wake up shouting
that the place was on fire.
176
00:19:23,496 --> 00:19:26,830
You have nine children.
Do you worry a lot?
177
00:19:26,957 --> 00:19:28,414
No.
178
00:19:29,001 --> 00:19:31,243
I don't have the time.
179
00:19:32,588 --> 00:19:34,671
As they get older,
180
00:19:34,840 --> 00:19:38,754
they start helping out
with the younger ones.
181
00:19:39,053 --> 00:19:42,842
At three or four,
they could help change diapers.
182
00:19:43,265 --> 00:19:45,348
They learned how.
183
00:19:46,185 --> 00:19:48,598
So I think it's worked out well.
184
00:19:51,440 --> 00:19:54,183
Your in-laws lived with you.
185
00:19:54,360 --> 00:19:55,771
Yes, they did.
186
00:19:55,903 --> 00:19:58,520
Did your mother-in-law help you?
187
00:19:58,656 --> 00:20:01,524
No. She'd say,
"You chose to have them,
188
00:20:01,659 --> 00:20:03,821
so you take care of them."
189
00:20:03,953 --> 00:20:06,240
So I never asked her for help.
190
00:20:16,757 --> 00:20:18,498
How big is this farm?
191
00:20:18,634 --> 00:20:21,217
Thirty acres of cleared land.
192
00:20:21,387 --> 00:20:25,722
There's 100 acres
of woodland as well.
193
00:20:26,475 --> 00:20:31,266
Then there are the heaths,
around as many acres.
194
00:20:31,480 --> 00:20:35,440
- And how much livestock?
- Right now, four head of cattle,
195
00:20:35,609 --> 00:20:38,568
and I keep lambs and pigs.
196
00:21:28,704 --> 00:21:32,448
Valter Broman owns and runs
the family farm.
197
00:21:32,625 --> 00:21:36,118
By FÄrö standards,
it's a middle-sized farm.
198
00:21:36,754 --> 00:21:38,791
He's 67years old.
199
00:21:39,590 --> 00:21:42,048
Since his mother's death
several years ago,
200
00:21:42,176 --> 00:21:46,090
he's chosen to live and work
completely on his own.
201
00:22:05,699 --> 00:22:06,815
It's tied.
202
00:22:10,830 --> 00:22:12,662
Not bad.
203
00:22:12,832 --> 00:22:16,997
I don't think it changed anything.
204
00:22:17,169 --> 00:22:19,661
It was a good throw, regardless.
205
00:22:36,522 --> 00:22:37,979
Twenty.
206
00:22:47,449 --> 00:22:49,031
That's a good one.
207
00:22:49,368 --> 00:22:55,706
"The summer days of beauty
208
00:22:55,833 --> 00:23:01,170
In blessedness are come
209
00:23:01,297 --> 00:23:07,840
The flowers are rejoicing
210
00:23:07,970 --> 00:23:13,386
To feel the gleaming sun
211
00:23:13,517 --> 00:23:19,605
In grace arisen brightly
212
00:23:19,732 --> 00:23:25,069
O'er fields of golden grain
213
00:23:25,195 --> 00:23:31,066
So warm and all-restoring
214
00:23:31,368 --> 00:23:36,739
That nature lives again
215
00:23:38,334 --> 00:23:41,122
There is an earthly paradise
216
00:23:41,337 --> 00:23:44,125
Where roses grow tall
217
00:23:44,465 --> 00:23:46,878
And there, among the scarlet tulips
218
00:23:47,176 --> 00:23:50,886
My friends and I are content
219
00:23:51,180 --> 00:23:53,843
I amble along its beautiful paths
220
00:23:54,099 --> 00:23:57,012
Where flowers bow down
221
00:23:57,227 --> 00:24:00,561
I go up to the mighty oak
222
00:24:00,689 --> 00:24:03,272
And sit at her feet
223
00:24:03,651 --> 00:24:06,860
I whisper the name of my beloved
224
00:24:07,029 --> 00:24:10,238
And the oak begins to speak
225
00:24:10,449 --> 00:24:14,409
She tells me tales of days gone by
226
00:24:14,536 --> 00:24:17,950
And the birds in the trees respond
227
00:24:18,332 --> 00:24:22,872
I watch as night meets day
228
00:24:23,253 --> 00:24:25,961
And I hear singing of many birds
229
00:24:26,090 --> 00:24:28,833
Blend into a chorus
230
00:24:28,968 --> 00:24:31,460
And from the top of the oak
231
00:24:31,595 --> 00:24:34,429
I hear the cuckoo call"
232
00:24:37,184 --> 00:24:38,971
Now that I'm older...
233
00:24:39,103 --> 00:24:44,223
I have a pension
and more time on my hands.
234
00:24:44,358 --> 00:24:50,320
At times, it felt like
I just had to write.
235
00:24:50,447 --> 00:24:53,360
Otherwise my mind
wouldn't let me rest.
236
00:24:53,492 --> 00:24:56,451
And sometimes...
237
00:24:56,578 --> 00:25:00,822
when I wake up at night
and can't go back to sleep,
238
00:25:01,083 --> 00:25:06,670
if I've been to a spot during the day
that I find beautiful,
239
00:25:06,797 --> 00:25:08,914
those images pop into my head.
240
00:25:09,049 --> 00:25:11,507
And as I lie there,
241
00:25:11,635 --> 00:25:16,847
the whole poem comes
to me in the night.
242
00:25:17,141 --> 00:25:20,384
The problem comes after that,
243
00:25:20,519 --> 00:25:25,355
because I don't want to get up
and write it down.
244
00:25:25,482 --> 00:25:27,474
I don't want to disturb Agda.
245
00:25:27,609 --> 00:25:30,693
If I don't write it down
in the morning...
246
00:25:30,863 --> 00:25:35,028
say, if Agda needs my help...
then it's very hard.
247
00:25:35,200 --> 00:25:37,362
But as long as...
248
00:25:37,536 --> 00:25:42,531
I jot my outlines down
on a piece of cardboard or a box.
249
00:25:42,666 --> 00:25:45,750
So I could go into the barn
250
00:25:45,878 --> 00:25:49,872
and close the doors
to be on my own.
251
00:25:50,132 --> 00:25:53,716
It was such a release
to put it down in writing.
252
00:25:53,886 --> 00:25:59,757
I could barely remember it
by heart at that point,
253
00:25:59,892 --> 00:26:02,054
but it felt good.
254
00:26:02,186 --> 00:26:09,525
I'd always carry
pencil and paper on me.
255
00:26:09,651 --> 00:26:15,147
Norsholmen has beautiful rauka,
or stone pillars.
256
00:26:15,282 --> 00:26:17,740
When I saw them,
257
00:26:17,910 --> 00:26:22,871
I immediately sat down
and wrote a poem.
258
00:26:23,082 --> 00:26:27,201
My father was born here,
and his father too.
259
00:26:27,336 --> 00:26:30,704
We go way back
to the Vikings, I guess.
260
00:26:30,839 --> 00:26:33,752
- Were you born here on this farm?
- Yes.
261
00:26:34,510 --> 00:26:37,548
In one of these rooms?
262
00:26:37,679 --> 00:26:39,762
Yes, right upstairs.
263
00:26:40,474 --> 00:26:42,306
How many siblings do you have?
264
00:26:42,434 --> 00:26:45,643
None. I had a sister,
but she died young.
265
00:26:46,563 --> 00:26:50,102
My dream as a little boy
266
00:26:50,234 --> 00:26:55,229
was to be a veterinarian
when I grew up.
267
00:26:55,864 --> 00:26:59,357
But as it turned out...
268
00:26:59,493 --> 00:27:03,533
we couldn't afford it.
269
00:27:03,664 --> 00:27:08,409
And my father felt
that since he had a son,
270
00:27:08,544 --> 00:27:11,036
that son should take
over the plow.
271
00:27:11,421 --> 00:27:14,164
I was planning to be a teacher.
272
00:27:16,176 --> 00:27:18,714
I went to school in Visby,
273
00:27:18,846 --> 00:27:21,680
but I had trouble with my eyes.
274
00:27:22,307 --> 00:27:25,926
- What kind of trouble?
- Astigmatism.
275
00:27:26,186 --> 00:27:30,305
- They couldn't do anything?
- I couldn't get any glasses.
276
00:27:30,649 --> 00:27:36,270
So I couldn't pass the vision test
for teaching college.
277
00:27:37,322 --> 00:27:39,905
But I always read a lot,
278
00:27:40,033 --> 00:27:43,117
up until the last ten years or so.
279
00:27:43,370 --> 00:27:46,613
It was terribly hard work
280
00:27:46,748 --> 00:27:51,584
to plow the rocky fields
in Norsholmen.
281
00:27:51,712 --> 00:27:55,626
I had to think about other things
282
00:27:56,091 --> 00:27:58,208
just to keep going.
283
00:27:58,343 --> 00:28:01,836
Was your mother prepared
to make that financial sacrifice?
284
00:28:01,972 --> 00:28:06,387
Yes, she sold off half the farm
when I was to start school.
285
00:28:06,518 --> 00:28:11,263
She couldn't have run the farm
back in those days anyway.
286
00:28:11,607 --> 00:28:14,691
All those stone fences and all.
287
00:28:14,860 --> 00:28:20,072
She couldn't have taken care
of all that alone.
288
00:28:20,657 --> 00:28:23,195
So we sold it.
289
00:28:23,577 --> 00:28:26,536
After my father's death,
290
00:28:26,830 --> 00:28:31,996
people became aware
that I had certain skills.
291
00:28:32,127 --> 00:28:36,713
They'd send for me
when there was a calving.
292
00:28:37,466 --> 00:28:43,463
Were you very disappointed
when you weren't able to qualify?
293
00:28:43,597 --> 00:28:46,931
Of course.
It was awful at first.
294
00:28:47,142 --> 00:28:49,634
But then you just accept it.
295
00:28:49,770 --> 00:28:55,687
Worse things can happen,
like losing your sight completely.
296
00:28:55,817 --> 00:29:01,814
I just couldn't meet
their specific requirements.
297
00:29:01,949 --> 00:29:05,238
At night people would come
banging on the window.
298
00:29:05,410 --> 00:29:10,906
I've been to DÀmor, Lauter, SkÀr.
299
00:29:11,083 --> 00:29:16,920
I've been all over
to help out with calving.
300
00:29:17,089 --> 00:29:21,925
I've helped people
with their sheep too.
301
00:29:22,052 --> 00:29:25,591
Our math teacher
was here one summer.
302
00:29:25,889 --> 00:29:29,473
She was from Visby,
and she had a limp.
303
00:29:29,601 --> 00:29:32,014
Her name was Kristiansson.
304
00:29:32,145 --> 00:29:35,559
She had come to tutor
the children at StengÄrden.
305
00:29:35,857 --> 00:29:37,894
She came to see me.
306
00:29:38,026 --> 00:29:40,939
This was after
my mother had passed away.
307
00:29:41,113 --> 00:29:43,821
I was stirring these huge pots.
308
00:29:43,949 --> 00:29:46,657
We'd just had a meal
when she came.
309
00:29:46,785 --> 00:29:48,822
I asked her in.
310
00:29:48,954 --> 00:29:52,948
Thirty people were outside
having coffee after dinner,
311
00:29:53,125 --> 00:29:56,334
so we found a place
to sit at the table.
312
00:29:56,461 --> 00:30:00,045
And the first thing she said was...
313
00:30:00,632 --> 00:30:03,466
"No, Agda, it wasn't meant
to be like this,
314
00:30:03,593 --> 00:30:05,801
with that head of yours."
315
00:30:43,175 --> 00:30:44,882
Relax.
316
00:30:45,969 --> 00:30:48,052
You sure can kick.
317
00:32:01,086 --> 00:32:02,827
Here we go.
318
00:32:08,635 --> 00:32:10,342
Yes, you can.
319
00:33:08,153 --> 00:33:11,066
It seems like tourists come first
320
00:33:11,198 --> 00:33:13,531
and locals come second.
321
00:33:13,658 --> 00:33:16,321
Take the descendants
of the people here,
322
00:33:16,453 --> 00:33:18,490
the ones who have returned,
323
00:33:18,788 --> 00:33:21,326
and young people
who want to build here.
324
00:33:21,500 --> 00:33:25,790
Some have had to wait
five years for a permit.
325
00:33:26,046 --> 00:33:29,665
Then you hear
about summer guests
326
00:33:30,091 --> 00:33:32,458
who get a permit in three weeks.
327
00:33:33,178 --> 00:33:35,966
It's like they're keeping
the year-round residents down,
328
00:33:36,097 --> 00:33:38,430
so we don't have
a permanent population.
329
00:34:01,373 --> 00:34:03,410
Now for some statistics:
330
00:34:03,542 --> 00:34:07,331
Between June 15
and August 15, 1978,
331
00:34:07,462 --> 00:34:09,670
the ferry transported
332
00:34:09,798 --> 00:34:13,633
some 112, 000 cars
and commercial vehicles.
333
00:34:13,885 --> 00:34:17,049
During a period of equal length
in December-January...
334
00:34:17,180 --> 00:34:19,388
the number was just 16,000.
335
00:34:19,516 --> 00:34:23,226
We can't knock tourism.
We get a lot of good people.
336
00:34:23,353 --> 00:34:25,936
But we also get
certain categories of people.
337
00:34:26,064 --> 00:34:31,901
We've seen fishing boats
here destroyed.
338
00:34:32,070 --> 00:34:36,656
And someone tore down a shed
and grilled hot dogs with the wood.
339
00:34:37,075 --> 00:34:41,115
That's going too far.
340
00:34:41,246 --> 00:34:43,863
They're welcome
if they leave things alone.
341
00:35:29,127 --> 00:35:30,789
What's the hardest part?
342
00:35:30,962 --> 00:35:32,794
The hay.
343
00:35:34,132 --> 00:35:38,217
It's heavy going,
and it takes a lot of time.
344
00:35:38,345 --> 00:35:40,712
I spend many days outdoors.
345
00:35:41,264 --> 00:35:44,883
Poor weather
makes it even tougher.
346
00:35:45,018 --> 00:35:47,635
It's hard to get the hay dry.
347
00:35:47,979 --> 00:35:50,471
It's a lot of work.
348
00:35:50,982 --> 00:35:53,315
But you never ask anyone
to help out?
349
00:35:53,485 --> 00:35:55,943
No, I can handle it.
350
00:38:40,652 --> 00:38:45,147
Ingrid, it's been over ten years
since I last spoke to you.
351
00:38:45,281 --> 00:38:47,398
What year? I don't remember.
352
00:38:47,534 --> 00:38:49,617
It was 1969, in April.
353
00:38:49,744 --> 00:38:52,202
We sat and talked.
354
00:38:52,330 --> 00:38:54,617
That's right.
I ran the farm back then.
355
00:38:54,749 --> 00:38:57,241
- You're a farmer.
- Yes.
356
00:38:57,377 --> 00:38:59,243
Since when?
357
00:38:59,379 --> 00:39:03,168
Since Dad died in '37.
358
00:39:03,675 --> 00:39:05,337
That's when you took over?
359
00:39:05,468 --> 00:39:07,585
Yes, though I worked
during his illness too.
360
00:39:08,012 --> 00:39:10,254
My sister died...
361
00:39:10,932 --> 00:39:13,595
from cancer in 1957.
362
00:39:13,977 --> 00:39:17,971
That was hard.
Per was just three years old.
363
00:39:18,106 --> 00:39:19,847
And the others?
364
00:39:20,024 --> 00:39:23,142
Malin was 14
and Jan was eight.
365
00:39:24,153 --> 00:39:26,361
And they moved in with you?
366
00:39:26,531 --> 00:39:29,774
No, they've always lived here.
We lived together.
367
00:39:29,909 --> 00:39:32,026
That wasn't really a problem.
368
00:39:32,370 --> 00:39:35,363
They didn't have to move,
which was a good thing.
369
00:39:35,498 --> 00:39:39,208
Can you tell me
what's happened on the farm
370
00:39:39,377 --> 00:39:41,915
since we last spoke?
371
00:39:42,046 --> 00:39:44,379
Per took over the farm.
372
00:39:44,549 --> 00:39:48,543
He leases it now,
but it will be his one day.
373
00:39:48,678 --> 00:39:51,386
- He was just 16 then, right?
- Yes.
374
00:39:51,556 --> 00:39:55,095
- When did he take over?
- 1972.
375
00:39:56,603 --> 00:39:59,812
He works construction now too,
376
00:39:59,939 --> 00:40:02,556
since you can't live
off a small farm.
377
00:40:02,734 --> 00:40:05,317
You need
modern machinery today.
378
00:40:05,445 --> 00:40:08,279
A horse and plow aren't enough.
379
00:40:08,531 --> 00:40:10,568
I do carpentry work too.
380
00:40:10,700 --> 00:40:14,910
You can't live off the farm.
It's too small for that.
381
00:40:15,121 --> 00:40:17,955
This farm is too small for that.
382
00:40:18,082 --> 00:40:23,953
You need a bigger farm
to make ends meet.
383
00:40:24,088 --> 00:40:27,672
It's hard to sell your products.
384
00:40:27,800 --> 00:40:31,339
It seems
big farms have an easier time
385
00:40:31,471 --> 00:40:33,508
placing their products.
386
00:40:33,932 --> 00:40:39,769
It's like they keep us down,
us smaller outfits.
387
00:40:40,104 --> 00:40:44,189
I don't really understand...
388
00:40:44,400 --> 00:40:47,484
the Liberal Party's farming policies.
389
00:40:47,612 --> 00:40:51,822
One aspect I dislike a great deal
390
00:40:51,950 --> 00:40:55,944
is that my nephew
can't simply inherit the farm.
391
00:40:56,829 --> 00:41:01,949
In my opinion, relatives
should be entitled to the land.
392
00:41:02,210 --> 00:41:07,046
When a farm's been in the family
and then goes to someone else...
393
00:41:07,173 --> 00:41:11,838
I think the family
ought to have first say.
394
00:41:12,512 --> 00:41:16,472
But of course you have
to take care of the land.
395
00:41:16,641 --> 00:41:19,509
You can't be a "Sunday farmer."
396
00:41:20,603 --> 00:41:23,596
Young people
should take precedence.
397
00:41:23,982 --> 00:41:27,146
I met Per...
398
00:41:28,319 --> 00:41:32,814
and I didn't know I'd be
so involved with the animals.
399
00:41:33,950 --> 00:41:36,818
But I enjoy it. It's interesting.
400
00:41:37,078 --> 00:41:40,867
Most places will probably fold
in the next ten years.
401
00:41:40,999 --> 00:41:43,241
But the people who stay on...
402
00:41:43,793 --> 00:41:45,830
will make a living.
403
00:41:47,755 --> 00:41:49,963
If the tourists don't take over.
404
00:41:50,299 --> 00:41:53,542
You've had some health problems.
405
00:41:53,678 --> 00:41:56,716
- Yes, that's true.
- Like what?
406
00:41:56,848 --> 00:42:00,057
I was diagnosed
with diabetes back in '72...
407
00:42:00,893 --> 00:42:03,180
and I couldn't handle...
408
00:42:03,312 --> 00:42:05,770
You must have had it before that.
409
00:42:05,898 --> 00:42:09,107
Yes, I just didn't realize it.
410
00:42:09,235 --> 00:42:13,024
- How did you find out?
- I'd get very thirsty and tired.
411
00:42:13,197 --> 00:42:15,985
I'd fall asleep on my feet.
412
00:42:16,242 --> 00:42:18,780
That's how I found out.
413
00:42:19,954 --> 00:42:22,822
That must have been a strain.
414
00:42:22,957 --> 00:42:24,869
Yes, it was hard.
415
00:42:25,251 --> 00:42:28,744
Not having any strength
was terrible.
416
00:42:28,880 --> 00:42:32,373
All I could manage
was the cooking,
417
00:42:32,550 --> 00:42:35,714
and I don't enjoy cooking.
418
00:42:35,928 --> 00:42:39,512
I've always worked outdoors.
I enjoy that.
419
00:42:40,016 --> 00:42:43,976
Last winter
there was lots of lovely snow.
420
00:42:44,729 --> 00:42:46,470
No cars.
421
00:42:46,814 --> 00:42:48,680
That was the best part.
422
00:42:49,567 --> 00:42:53,060
And I like the fact there's a force
423
00:42:53,196 --> 00:42:55,688
that keeps man in check.
424
00:42:56,032 --> 00:42:59,651
The weather is proof of that.
425
00:43:00,244 --> 00:43:04,659
When I want to give Per a hand,
but don't have the strength,
426
00:43:04,791 --> 00:43:08,250
that's pretty upsetting.
427
00:43:08,377 --> 00:43:11,586
I don't know what to expect
from one day to the next.
428
00:43:11,714 --> 00:43:14,377
Some days I'm so tired.
429
00:43:14,509 --> 00:43:19,595
Per does the milking
before he goes to work.
430
00:43:19,931 --> 00:43:24,346
Sometimes he packs his lunch.
Sometimes I do it.
431
00:43:25,269 --> 00:43:27,602
And I clean the tank.
432
00:43:27,772 --> 00:43:29,934
We have a milk tank.
433
00:43:30,650 --> 00:43:33,267
I tend to the pigs too.
434
00:43:33,694 --> 00:43:37,233
I clear out the pig sty
if I'm up to it.
435
00:43:37,365 --> 00:43:39,778
It's not that I have to do it.
436
00:43:39,951 --> 00:43:42,284
I enjoy puttering around.
437
00:44:09,647 --> 00:44:12,105
Do you miss being able
to work hard?
438
00:44:12,233 --> 00:44:14,270
Oh, yes.
439
00:44:14,735 --> 00:44:17,819
Sometimes I still think I'm up to it,
440
00:44:17,947 --> 00:44:20,030
but I can't always manage.
441
00:44:20,158 --> 00:44:22,241
That isn't very much fun.
442
00:44:23,452 --> 00:44:26,035
I wish I could get well.
443
00:44:26,372 --> 00:44:30,742
I try and do what I can,
but it isn't much.
444
00:44:31,919 --> 00:44:34,912
It's humiliating.
445
00:44:35,381 --> 00:44:38,374
That's how I feel
when I can't manage things.
446
00:45:00,865 --> 00:45:04,700
Give it a good hard shove,
Bernard.
447
00:45:04,827 --> 00:45:09,367
You have to put your back in it.
Come from the other direction.
448
00:45:10,041 --> 00:45:13,375
That looks good now,
449
00:45:13,794 --> 00:45:18,129
but it sure looked strange
this morning.
450
00:45:18,257 --> 00:45:21,466
I'd never seen anything like it.
451
00:45:22,720 --> 00:45:25,758
You must have been
off your rocker,
452
00:45:25,890 --> 00:45:28,223
but it looks good now.
453
00:45:28,726 --> 00:45:31,969
Humble beginnings
and all that, you know...
454
00:45:49,330 --> 00:45:52,243
I reckon it will stand up
to rain now.
455
00:45:54,835 --> 00:45:59,421
I don't have any teeth,
but I'll manage.
456
00:46:03,052 --> 00:46:05,840
Everything will be fine.
457
00:46:05,972 --> 00:46:09,431
I reckon this is
the last time for me.
458
00:46:09,558 --> 00:46:11,675
The last time? No.
459
00:46:12,061 --> 00:46:14,895
You've just got a headache.
460
00:46:15,022 --> 00:46:17,605
It never goes away.
461
00:46:18,859 --> 00:46:22,443
- Well, you're 83, right?
- Yes.
462
00:46:56,814 --> 00:47:01,684
Let's brush off the excess.
463
00:47:08,826 --> 00:47:12,740
All the way to the edge.
464
00:47:51,619 --> 00:47:54,953
There are reed marshes on FÄrö
465
00:47:55,081 --> 00:47:57,869
that one's not allowed
to harvest.
466
00:47:58,000 --> 00:48:02,870
But there are many
that can be harvested.
467
00:48:03,297 --> 00:48:09,419
The edges of these folded reeds
are slightly barbed.
468
00:48:09,804 --> 00:48:11,887
They catch, you see.
469
00:48:13,140 --> 00:48:16,429
When you thatch roofs
with these reeds...
470
00:48:17,186 --> 00:48:19,473
the reeds go flat,
471
00:48:19,605 --> 00:48:22,939
either with the flap side out,
472
00:48:23,526 --> 00:48:27,110
or with the spine side up.
473
00:48:27,238 --> 00:48:33,781
There will be other reeds
around it...
474
00:48:33,911 --> 00:48:38,326
and water will run off
in the channels.
475
00:48:39,583 --> 00:48:44,669
Once it has rained
on a reed-thatched roof,
476
00:48:44,797 --> 00:48:48,336
moisture will never penetrate
477
00:48:48,717 --> 00:48:53,178
deeper than an inch.
478
00:48:53,305 --> 00:48:56,798
That's why reeds make
first-class roofing
479
00:48:56,934 --> 00:48:59,176
for feed storage.
480
00:48:59,437 --> 00:49:04,023
If you keep livestock
in a barn with a tin roof,
481
00:49:04,150 --> 00:49:08,645
you'll get condensation,
and that can spoil hay,
482
00:49:08,779 --> 00:49:11,943
which never happens
with a reed roof.
483
00:49:12,116 --> 00:49:14,608
And it doesn't burn.
484
00:49:14,743 --> 00:49:19,204
It just smolders
and causes lots of smoke.
485
00:49:19,915 --> 00:49:25,035
People used to cut reeds
by hand in the marshes.
486
00:49:25,171 --> 00:49:28,039
You couldn't use horses,
487
00:49:28,174 --> 00:49:30,632
and there were no tractors.
488
00:49:31,010 --> 00:49:36,347
Nowadays we use
lightweight tractors and harvesters.
489
00:49:36,599 --> 00:49:42,391
We have nine loads down there.
We need 20.
490
00:49:42,521 --> 00:49:45,013
I reckon that will be five loads,
491
00:49:45,149 --> 00:49:48,813
and we have the wetlands there
that we cut this morning.
492
00:49:48,986 --> 00:49:54,152
How many loads
did we get in the first bit?
493
00:49:54,325 --> 00:49:57,989
At least three.
494
00:49:59,038 --> 00:50:01,872
Then there's that stretch
over there.
495
00:50:01,999 --> 00:50:09,623
That should amount
to six or seven loads.
496
00:50:09,965 --> 00:50:13,379
Six and three makes nine...
497
00:50:15,513 --> 00:50:19,257
and nine and nine makes 18.
That should be enough.
498
00:50:19,475 --> 00:50:24,846
This reed has a Latin name,
but I can't remember it.
499
00:50:25,022 --> 00:50:28,686
It's so complicated
that it always slips my mind.
500
00:54:46,617 --> 00:54:48,324
Am I fond of FÄrö?
501
00:54:48,452 --> 00:54:52,116
Yes, I suppose I am.
502
00:54:53,290 --> 00:54:56,124
It would be nice
to have a change, though.
503
00:54:56,251 --> 00:54:58,618
But I'd like to live on Gotland.
504
00:54:59,546 --> 00:55:01,458
There isn't much to do.
505
00:55:01,673 --> 00:55:04,416
I want to stay here.
506
00:55:04,802 --> 00:55:06,634
I really like it here.
507
00:55:07,221 --> 00:55:09,964
Depends on if I can get a job.
508
00:55:10,349 --> 00:55:15,140
I'm going to look for work
on the mainland or in FÄrösund.
509
00:55:15,521 --> 00:55:17,308
You can fish and stuff.
510
00:55:18,482 --> 00:55:20,064
I like it here.
511
00:55:20,484 --> 00:55:22,976
There are no jobs here.
512
00:55:23,320 --> 00:55:25,562
I don't know.
513
00:55:27,366 --> 00:55:30,859
- I like it here.
- Anything you like in particular?
514
00:55:30,994 --> 00:55:33,862
It's not a lot of asphalt.
515
00:55:33,997 --> 00:55:36,660
Mostly grass and nature and trees.
516
00:55:37,167 --> 00:55:39,750
Yes, it's a fine little island.
517
00:59:04,166 --> 00:59:07,034
When I came here back in 1974,
518
00:59:07,210 --> 00:59:10,544
this school
had just been remodeled.
519
00:59:10,714 --> 00:59:13,832
They had added a lunchroom
520
00:59:13,967 --> 00:59:15,959
and a gym.
521
00:59:16,094 --> 00:59:19,713
There was no gym here
before that.
522
00:59:20,223 --> 00:59:25,218
So the kids were excited.
523
00:59:26,063 --> 00:59:28,931
Only there wasn't any equipment.
524
00:59:29,900 --> 00:59:34,235
There were sets of wall bars
and some beams, but that was it.
525
00:59:34,529 --> 00:59:37,021
I called them up,
526
00:59:37,157 --> 00:59:41,492
but there wasn't enough money.
527
00:59:43,163 --> 00:59:45,029
At least not in the budget.
528
00:59:46,416 --> 00:59:50,956
So I contacted
the person at the council
529
00:59:51,088 --> 00:59:56,334
in charge of supplies
for physical education
530
00:59:56,468 --> 00:59:59,677
and asked
if we could get some things.
531
00:59:59,805 --> 01:00:03,845
He said,
"Make a list and send it to me."
532
01:00:04,309 --> 01:00:06,801
I thought, "That sounds easy!"
533
01:00:07,229 --> 01:00:11,894
So I made a list and waited.
534
01:00:12,025 --> 01:00:15,985
They sent us some jump ropes
and a few balls,
535
01:00:16,113 --> 01:00:20,278
which was nice,
but nothing else materialized.
536
01:00:20,450 --> 01:00:23,943
So I called the fellow
a few months later.
537
01:00:24,412 --> 01:00:28,122
And he told me to make a list.
538
01:00:29,126 --> 01:00:32,915
"I already did," I said.
"I sent it to you."
539
01:00:33,046 --> 01:00:36,630
"It must have gotten lost.
Make up a new list."
540
01:00:36,758 --> 01:00:39,250
"Sure, I'll do that."
541
01:00:39,553 --> 01:00:43,513
By now I think
I've sent five or six lists.
542
01:00:45,308 --> 01:00:51,521
Every year we've received
one or two items on our list.
543
01:00:51,648 --> 01:00:54,061
So now, five years later,
544
01:00:54,192 --> 01:00:58,482
we're on our way
to a more or less fully equipped gym.
545
01:00:58,655 --> 01:01:03,150
You get the feeling...
the locals feel this way...
546
01:01:03,451 --> 01:01:09,288
that if you call the council,
everyone is always busy.
547
01:01:09,416 --> 01:01:13,660
It's hard to get hold
of the people in charge,
548
01:01:13,837 --> 01:01:20,175
and you may not know
exactly who you're dealing with.
549
01:01:20,594 --> 01:01:24,338
An official from southern Gotland
550
01:01:24,514 --> 01:01:28,884
might be making decisions
affecting FÄrö, or vice versa.
551
01:01:29,186 --> 01:01:32,770
The district is too large.
That's not a good thing.
552
01:01:33,231 --> 01:01:36,975
The standards aren't as high
553
01:01:37,110 --> 01:01:39,853
out in the country.
554
01:01:39,988 --> 01:01:45,484
Your tax money doesn't provide
what it does across the water.
555
01:01:46,536 --> 01:01:50,371
And that's disappointing, of course.
556
01:01:51,124 --> 01:01:54,492
You often feel passed over.
557
01:01:57,380 --> 01:01:59,997
That happens quite often...
558
01:02:01,676 --> 01:02:03,383
in my opinion.
559
01:03:13,832 --> 01:03:18,247
The rye that grew here
on the chalky land was so fine.
560
01:03:18,378 --> 01:03:22,918
The flour was different
from the flour produced
561
01:03:23,049 --> 01:03:26,713
from rye grown on humus soil.
562
01:03:26,845 --> 01:03:29,303
It gave bread a different color.
563
01:03:29,472 --> 01:03:35,013
My mother always preferred
the rye grown here at Norsholmen
564
01:03:35,145 --> 01:03:41,642
for the special loaves
she baked for Christmas.
565
01:03:42,444 --> 01:03:47,314
Regarding these stone fences...
566
01:03:47,449 --> 01:03:50,237
my ancestors told me...
567
01:03:51,328 --> 01:03:53,741
My father
and mygrandfather told me
568
01:03:53,872 --> 01:03:56,831
that you should never
have a stone fence
569
01:03:57,000 --> 01:04:00,164
along the southern edge
of a field,
570
01:04:00,295 --> 01:04:04,289
because when snowdrifts
remained on the ground,
571
01:04:04,424 --> 01:04:07,838
tender young crops
would get moldy.
572
01:04:08,011 --> 01:04:12,346
The sun couldn't penetrate
the stone fences.
573
01:04:12,474 --> 01:04:16,343
So you used stone fences
only to the north of a field.
574
01:04:16,478 --> 01:04:22,349
To the east, west, and south,
you used wooden fences.
575
01:04:22,484 --> 01:04:27,730
The sun would warm
the wooden fences,
576
01:04:27,864 --> 01:04:30,857
so the snow
would melt away better.
577
01:04:31,451 --> 01:04:36,537
This stone fence has been here
a hundred years, maybe more.
578
01:04:36,748 --> 01:04:43,587
I helped build some of the fences
on the other side.
579
01:04:43,713 --> 01:04:49,755
For those we gathered stones
from the beach.
580
01:04:49,886 --> 01:04:55,507
You built them in stages,
depending on the water level.
581
01:04:55,642 --> 01:04:58,510
When the tide was out,
582
01:04:58,645 --> 01:05:03,060
you could find more stones
for building walls.
583
01:05:03,233 --> 01:05:07,193
The stones you found up on land
584
01:05:07,320 --> 01:05:10,484
were flat and brittle.
585
01:05:10,615 --> 01:05:13,904
They'd been exposed
to the elements much longer.
586
01:05:14,035 --> 01:05:19,076
They weren't as strong
as stones lying in the water.
587
01:06:43,958 --> 01:06:46,200
Start up the tractor.
588
01:07:22,121 --> 01:07:23,908
Damn, it's cold!
589
01:07:36,344 --> 01:07:38,176
Is there any more?
590
01:09:28,289 --> 01:09:30,576
Where do you want the cut, Otto?
591
01:09:35,672 --> 01:09:40,542
I thought I'd made the cut
on the joint.
592
01:09:44,180 --> 01:09:47,423
You have to butcher it right.
593
01:09:48,851 --> 01:09:50,717
It takes some cutting.
594
01:10:30,893 --> 01:10:34,512
The hooves won't come off.
595
01:10:35,523 --> 01:10:37,606
Here we go...
596
01:10:43,239 --> 01:10:45,481
There goes the other one.
597
01:10:52,123 --> 01:10:53,910
Come on.
598
01:11:06,220 --> 01:11:08,212
I don't see very well.
599
01:11:09,974 --> 01:11:11,966
I'm getting too old.
600
01:11:17,231 --> 01:11:19,268
You used to be a master butcher.
601
01:11:19,442 --> 01:11:21,855
That was a long time ago.
602
01:11:23,821 --> 01:11:27,189
When I was 17 or 18,
I slaughtered an ox.
603
01:11:27,325 --> 01:11:30,033
I had never done beef before.
604
01:11:31,204 --> 01:11:35,448
I just did my best,
and it went well.
605
01:11:35,583 --> 01:11:37,290
Did you sharpen it?
606
01:11:37,460 --> 01:11:41,670
No, this was the one.
607
01:11:42,298 --> 01:11:44,415
That's a sharp knife.
608
01:11:49,764 --> 01:11:51,426
That's done.
609
01:12:07,740 --> 01:12:09,652
That's great.
610
01:12:11,494 --> 01:12:13,656
A little more. That's it.
611
01:12:24,841 --> 01:12:27,049
Just the head left.
612
01:12:47,196 --> 01:12:50,360
I'll hold the head up.
613
01:12:50,533 --> 01:12:53,446
Good. I'll get it up higher.
614
01:13:44,420 --> 01:13:48,505
Looks like winter's on its way.
615
01:13:50,551 --> 01:13:53,009
Even though it's unexpected.
616
01:13:53,429 --> 01:13:56,922
The water level's so low.
617
01:13:57,058 --> 01:14:00,142
That means it will get colder.
618
01:14:47,316 --> 01:14:49,148
It's freezing.
619
01:14:54,740 --> 01:14:57,153
Here it comes...
620
01:14:59,495 --> 01:15:02,909
This one's tricky.
621
01:15:03,499 --> 01:15:06,663
I'm tall, so I'll get it.
622
01:15:07,169 --> 01:15:12,836
The cats eat four times a day
623
01:15:13,175 --> 01:15:15,087
now that it's cold.
624
01:15:15,845 --> 01:15:17,882
Let's save a little for them.
625
01:15:22,518 --> 01:15:25,010
We'll put this one in the freezer.
626
01:15:33,529 --> 01:15:36,021
I wish it weren't so darn cold.
627
01:15:36,741 --> 01:15:38,357
My poor fingers.
628
01:15:43,873 --> 01:15:46,160
The lighthouse at FÄrö.
629
01:15:46,542 --> 01:15:48,204
Hello.
630
01:15:49,211 --> 01:15:52,045
I'm doing just fine, thanks.
631
01:15:53,591 --> 01:15:56,959
No, there's no snow falling right now.
632
01:15:57,094 --> 01:15:59,802
It's cleared up.
633
01:16:01,348 --> 01:16:03,886
Here's your data: 329.
634
01:16:04,727 --> 01:16:07,720
83605.
635
01:16:09,190 --> 01:16:11,853
Cross, cross, cross 52.
636
01:16:12,985 --> 01:16:16,069
853, cross, cross.
637
01:16:18,115 --> 01:16:20,607
553 cross.
638
01:16:21,118 --> 01:16:23,906
41805.
639
01:16:26,082 --> 01:16:30,042
And 00478.
640
01:16:31,170 --> 01:16:37,087
We use this thingamajig instead
of manning the lighthouse.
641
01:16:38,260 --> 01:16:43,130
It serves FÄrö,
Gotska Sandön, and Ăstergarn.
642
01:16:44,350 --> 01:16:49,562
This contraption
sends reports to Norrköping
643
01:16:49,688 --> 01:16:52,431
if anything goes wrong.
644
01:16:52,858 --> 01:16:57,569
But a machine like this
can never look out
645
01:16:57,696 --> 01:17:02,987
and see if there's
a ship in distress.
646
01:21:46,276 --> 01:21:49,895
I was so tired and weak.
647
01:21:51,281 --> 01:21:55,025
I had to go to the hospital
and have my appendix removed.
648
01:21:55,160 --> 01:21:57,868
Then came the diabetes.
649
01:21:58,122 --> 01:22:01,081
My health has been bad
for five years now.
650
01:22:01,208 --> 01:22:05,498
They found out I had angina too.
651
01:22:05,754 --> 01:22:07,996
They gave me medication...
652
01:22:08,715 --> 01:22:10,957
and now I'm doing fine.
653
01:22:11,093 --> 01:22:13,836
The angina was very painful.
654
01:22:16,098 --> 01:22:18,090
Aches and pains...
655
01:22:18,392 --> 01:22:22,853
Mornings are the toughest part.
656
01:22:23,272 --> 01:22:26,731
You feel better once you getgoing.
657
01:26:23,887 --> 01:26:27,221
Saint Lucia
658
01:26:27,766 --> 01:26:31,806
Clear and bright vision
659
01:26:32,437 --> 01:26:36,306
Spread this winter night
660
01:26:36,692 --> 01:26:40,777
The luster of your beauty
661
01:26:41,029 --> 01:26:45,194
Dreams filled with winged vibration
662
01:26:45,575 --> 01:26:49,660
Tell of your revelation
663
01:26:49,955 --> 01:26:53,869
Light your white candles
664
01:26:54,209 --> 01:26:58,123
Saint Lucia
665
01:26:58,547 --> 01:27:02,541
Lo! 'Tis the Queen of Light
666
01:27:02,718 --> 01:27:06,678
Joyfully singing
667
01:27:06,888 --> 01:27:10,677
Clad in her garment white
668
01:27:10,934 --> 01:27:14,928
Wearing her crown of light
669
01:27:41,006 --> 01:27:42,918
- Thank you.
- Take a cookie too.
670
01:27:43,049 --> 01:27:45,507
You had time to bake.
671
01:27:46,136 --> 01:27:47,968
That's not bad.
672
01:27:52,601 --> 01:27:55,139
Here's a small gift
to remember us by.
673
01:27:55,270 --> 01:27:58,434
Thank you very much.
674
01:28:00,942 --> 01:28:02,934
Not many people
around here today.
675
01:28:03,111 --> 01:28:08,277
No, they're with the children.
676
01:28:08,533 --> 01:28:10,365
Yes, that's right.
677
01:28:11,411 --> 01:28:15,200
I haven't seen
this little fellow before.
678
01:28:15,332 --> 01:28:17,949
- Actually, you have.
- Really?
679
01:28:18,084 --> 01:28:21,373
- He was at the confirmation.
- Is that so?
680
01:28:23,173 --> 01:28:26,507
In the name of God,
our merciful Father,
681
01:28:26,635 --> 01:28:29,548
we commit the body
of Adolf Mikael Johannes Ekström
682
01:28:29,679 --> 01:28:32,046
to the peace of the grave.
683
01:28:41,691 --> 01:28:44,149
From dust you came...
684
01:28:49,491 --> 01:28:52,154
To dust you shall return...
685
01:28:56,915 --> 01:29:02,502
Jesus Christ, our Savior,
shall raise you up on the last day.
686
01:29:03,088 --> 01:29:07,002
We were in the barn.
The children were in school.
687
01:29:07,175 --> 01:29:10,794
Victoria had made coffee
and set out some cake.
688
01:29:11,346 --> 01:29:15,340
When we were finished in the barn,
we tended to the lambs.
689
01:29:15,851 --> 01:29:18,810
We were busy
with the newborn lambs,
690
01:29:18,937 --> 01:29:22,476
so I guess it must have been
around 8:30.
691
01:29:23,775 --> 01:29:27,644
When we came in, Victoria said...
692
01:29:27,863 --> 01:29:31,823
"Gramps hasn't gotten up
for his tea."
693
01:29:32,033 --> 01:29:36,027
I said maybe he wasn't feeling well,
and I went to his room.
694
01:29:36,204 --> 01:29:40,744
He lay in bed. I touched his hand,
and he was all stiff.
695
01:29:41,376 --> 01:29:43,368
Stiff as a board.
696
01:29:59,227 --> 01:30:03,437
He didn't feel well
if he wasn't outdoors.
697
01:30:03,565 --> 01:30:06,729
Rain or shine,
even if it was slippery out.
698
01:30:06,902 --> 01:30:10,191
He couldn't walk very well
after he hurt his head.
699
01:30:10,322 --> 01:30:12,860
We often told him to stay indoors.
700
01:30:12,991 --> 01:30:16,735
We were afraid
he'd fall and hurt himself.
701
01:30:17,495 --> 01:30:21,079
But he just had to be outdoors.
702
01:30:40,435 --> 01:30:43,178
"We are all like leaves
upon the ground
703
01:30:43,772 --> 01:30:47,436
Storms would howl,
but I never grew weary
704
01:30:47,609 --> 01:30:50,852
I fought the wind that shook me
705
01:30:51,780 --> 01:30:55,615
I understood
the purpose of it all
706
01:30:56,242 --> 01:30:59,451
Our struggles lead us
to your gates
707
01:31:00,288 --> 01:31:04,282
Let me fall without a sound
far out of sight
708
01:31:04,584 --> 01:31:07,452
Let me wake
in a shimmering meadow
709
01:31:07,963 --> 01:31:11,707
Let me make my way
like a turning leaf
710
01:31:12,425 --> 01:31:15,293
To the familiar strains
of my country's own song
711
01:31:16,388 --> 01:31:20,803
I sleep in peace
in my Father's arms
712
01:31:21,476 --> 01:31:24,310
And I will wake up
in another place
713
01:31:24,646 --> 01:31:27,684
No longer do storms ravage me
714
01:31:28,650 --> 01:31:32,985
And my working days are done"
715
01:33:26,101 --> 01:33:30,516
There was a fishing boom on FÄrö
during WWII and right after.
716
01:33:30,647 --> 01:33:33,765
By the time I got started,
there wasn't much left.
717
01:33:33,942 --> 01:33:37,276
There were
only two boats in operation.
718
01:33:38,446 --> 01:33:41,530
This one has
a gross weight of 44 tons.
719
01:33:42,784 --> 01:33:45,868
She's a 56-footer.
720
01:33:46,329 --> 01:33:50,448
The vessel had to be less than
ten years old to qualify for a loan.
721
01:33:50,875 --> 01:33:53,538
And there was
a 50-foot minimum too.
722
01:33:53,670 --> 01:33:58,631
There wasn't a lot to choose from,
but we thought this was a good ship.
723
01:33:58,758 --> 01:34:01,296
It cost 200,000 kronor.
724
01:34:01,803 --> 01:34:06,298
Then there's equipment too.
You need more than just the boat.
725
01:34:08,059 --> 01:34:10,472
The equipment cost just as much.
726
01:34:11,646 --> 01:34:14,889
For two years,
they're straight loans.
727
01:34:15,024 --> 01:34:17,937
Then you pay them off
in ten years
728
01:34:18,069 --> 01:34:19,981
at five percent.
729
01:34:20,155 --> 01:34:26,152
That's the only benefit
the state provides for salmon fishing.
730
01:34:26,786 --> 01:34:30,826
But it's pretty decent
of the state to do that.
731
01:36:48,303 --> 01:36:51,421
- Where are your fishing grounds?
- All over...
732
01:36:51,556 --> 01:36:55,345
from the Gulf of Bothnia
to GdaĆsk Bay.
733
01:36:55,476 --> 01:37:01,598
We can fish in Finnish,
Polish, and Russian waters.
734
01:37:01,899 --> 01:37:07,270
The Polish authorities
want you to report your catch.
735
01:37:07,530 --> 01:37:11,490
And the same for Russia.
We just got notified a week ago.
736
01:37:11,659 --> 01:37:15,152
But we can run up
to the Gulf of Bothnia
737
01:37:15,288 --> 01:37:17,496
and down to GdaĆsk Bay
738
01:37:17,665 --> 01:37:21,830
to get to where the fish are,
or where we think they are.
739
01:37:22,003 --> 01:37:23,744
What's your top speed?
740
01:37:23,880 --> 01:37:25,997
Eight knots.
741
01:37:26,132 --> 01:37:28,465
And you can be out for 24 hours?
742
01:37:28,593 --> 01:37:31,961
Sure. Sometimes even longer.
743
01:38:49,090 --> 01:38:53,255
We can use 600 nets per boat,
or 2,000 salmon hooks.
744
01:38:53,594 --> 01:38:56,132
That's your daily quota.
745
01:38:57,265 --> 01:39:00,508
We stick to that...
746
01:39:01,853 --> 01:39:05,563
but the old quota
was 700-900 nets.
747
01:39:05,690 --> 01:39:08,649
- Doesn't that make you angry?
- Sure it does.
748
01:39:09,068 --> 01:39:14,154
The same rules
should apply to everyone.
749
01:39:14,282 --> 01:39:17,446
They say the fish population
in the Baltic Sea
750
01:39:17,577 --> 01:39:19,785
is being depleted.
751
01:39:20,329 --> 01:39:23,948
That's right.
That may well be the case.
752
01:39:24,792 --> 01:39:27,910
They let the West Coast trawlers
fish these waters.
753
01:39:28,421 --> 01:39:31,004
They fished here all spring.
754
01:39:31,382 --> 01:39:35,126
They depleted
the herring in the Atlantic,
755
01:39:35,303 --> 01:39:39,013
and that's a bigger body of water
than the Baltic Sea.
756
01:39:39,765 --> 01:39:44,009
So I figure the process...
757
01:39:45,062 --> 01:39:47,349
will go faster here.
758
01:39:47,482 --> 01:39:50,099
If they can stop this drain
759
01:39:50,234 --> 01:39:52,647
on the herring
and sprat populations...
760
01:39:52,945 --> 01:39:54,857
That's what the salmon feed on.
761
01:39:54,989 --> 01:39:57,276
No food, no salmon.
762
01:39:57,408 --> 01:40:00,867
If you get 600 fish
in ten days, that's fine.
763
01:40:00,995 --> 01:40:02,952
That's a fair haul.
764
01:40:03,080 --> 01:40:06,824
The salmon
must measure 23 inches.
765
01:40:07,084 --> 01:40:09,497
We throw the smaller ones back.
766
01:40:09,629 --> 01:40:13,293
We can't sell them.
No one will take them.
767
01:40:13,633 --> 01:40:15,465
Where do you sell your catch?
768
01:40:15,593 --> 01:40:19,382
Mainly to Gotlands Fisk,
and a little to the mainland.
769
01:40:19,514 --> 01:40:21,301
Who sets the prices?
770
01:40:21,432 --> 01:40:24,049
I don't know, but they vary.
771
01:40:24,644 --> 01:40:28,354
They can vary
by three to four kronor per class.
772
01:40:28,481 --> 01:40:31,690
There are different classes
of salmon:
773
01:40:32,276 --> 01:40:34,188
2-3, 3-4,
774
01:40:34,320 --> 01:40:36,528
4-5, 5-7, 7-9.
775
01:40:36,697 --> 01:40:40,532
- What does that mean?
- You get 20 kronor for the lowest class.
776
01:40:40,701 --> 01:40:44,035
And up to 40 kronor
for the highest, per kilo.
777
01:40:44,205 --> 01:40:49,200
Those prices can vary,
depending on the buyer.
778
01:40:50,461 --> 01:40:53,795
We aren't allowed to fish
between June 1 and August 25.
779
01:40:53,923 --> 01:40:57,132
But the water's too warm then
for fishing anyway.
780
01:40:57,260 --> 01:41:02,051
As of August 25,
we have to work every day we can.
781
01:41:02,223 --> 01:41:06,342
We can be out six days
before needing to come ashore.
782
01:41:06,477 --> 01:41:10,812
Later, in October and November,
we can stay out ten days.
783
01:41:10,940 --> 01:41:13,227
Then we set out again.
784
01:41:13,359 --> 01:41:16,067
We only stay in port
if it's too windy.
785
01:41:16,362 --> 01:41:21,027
You look forward to the 25th,
so you can set out again.
786
01:41:21,409 --> 01:41:24,573
Once you've got the bug,
you can't quit.
787
01:41:25,997 --> 01:41:28,831
My FÄrö Document from 1969
788
01:41:28,958 --> 01:41:31,792
ended with a bleak prognosis.
789
01:41:31,919 --> 01:41:34,377
FÄrö was a dying district.
790
01:41:34,505 --> 01:41:36,792
The young people were leaving.
791
01:41:36,924 --> 01:41:40,213
All forms of public services
were on the wane.
792
01:41:40,344 --> 01:41:42,711
The fishing industry
no longer existed.
793
01:41:42,847 --> 01:41:45,555
There were few jobs available.
794
01:41:46,517 --> 01:41:48,975
The future was projected
in this way:
795
01:41:49,103 --> 01:41:52,972
For six weeks each summer,
this sparsely populated island
796
01:41:53,107 --> 01:41:57,101
would be reduced to a bizarre
tourist paradise for mainlanders
797
01:41:57,278 --> 01:42:00,487
and Social Democrat bigwigs
on vacation.
798
01:42:01,824 --> 01:42:04,567
That nightmarish vision
hasn't come true.
799
01:42:05,620 --> 01:42:09,239
Though residents here
don't have it any better now,
800
01:42:09,373 --> 01:42:11,956
things haven'tgotten
any worse either.
801
01:42:12,126 --> 01:42:15,369
In one respect
there's been a radical change:
802
01:42:16,297 --> 01:42:20,291
The young people
no longer look down on FÄrö.
803
01:42:20,426 --> 01:42:24,466
They're prepared to stay on
and try to make the best
804
01:42:24,889 --> 01:42:29,634
of the less-than-stellar
circumstances.
805
01:42:29,810 --> 01:42:32,018
And FÄrö has an asset
806
01:42:32,146 --> 01:42:35,105
that other sparsely
populated regions lack:
807
01:42:35,232 --> 01:42:38,646
It's becoming more and more
popular with tourists.
808
01:42:39,487 --> 01:42:43,822
If the authorities could act
in an open-minded fashion
809
01:42:43,991 --> 01:42:48,702
and help the people of FÄrö
build cottages on their own property
810
01:42:48,829 --> 01:42:51,071
fit for year-round rental,
811
01:42:51,457 --> 01:42:54,666
that would generate
a modest increase in prosperity
812
01:42:54,794 --> 01:42:57,161
and many promising
job opportunities.
813
01:43:29,328 --> 01:43:34,198
Hopefully, the next FÄrö Document
will be completed in 1989.
814
01:43:34,792 --> 01:43:37,876
It will be interesting to see
if we're still around.
63001
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