All language subtitles for Facing.Monsters.2021.720p.WEB.H264-RABiDS

[elevator whirring]

[elevator dings]

[♪♪♪]

[♪♪♪]

[♪♪♪]

[♪♪♪]

[wind howling]

[humming]

[♪♪♪]

[humming continues]

[♪♪♪]

FACING MONSTERS

KERBY:
The ocean is where I go to find peace

and a place where I belong.

[wind howling]

KERBY:
It's where I feel free.

Without that connection,

I don't feel like I'm the person
I'm supposed to be.

I lose that balance.

[waves crashing]

KERBY:
It's where I feel most alive.

I've spent my life building up
knowledge of the ocean

and what I think is rideable
in terms of heavy waves.

Maybe I'm searching
for something

that's not even there.
I'm not sure.

The thing that keeps me going
is the thought

of what is out there

and are we going to stumble
across the biggest,

heaviest, thickest wave
we've ever seen,

and am I gonna be able
to ride it?

GABAGABA
MID-WEST COAST WESTERN AUSTRALIA

KERBY:
I've got a real connection to this place

and it's where everything
changed for me.

It really opened up my mind
and showed me possibilities.

Yeah, ever since I was a kid
I've been looking at this wave.

It's always intrigued me.

It's always kind of drawn me out
onto the point here

and I've spent a lot of time
over the years just watching it.

The ledge goes down
into deep water

so you get these swells,
they come...

travel such a long distance

and they'll just come marching
into this point

and because
it's more jagged set up,

it'll throw these swells,
and they'll grinding down

in front of this
barnacle shelf here.

And still to this day

I haven't seen
another wave like it.

[waves crashing]

CORTNEY:
You look at it and you think,

how you--
how do you even surf that?

There's just too much water
moving. It's too shallow.

[waves crashing]

We looked at it a lot growing up

and it just...
it was just never an option.

We never thought
it was surfable.

I hate the place.

I-- I only come here in the boat
to watch him surf it.

Watch the boys
and I don't like it.

You know I don't-- but you know,
that's what they do.

It's just deep water
onto a ledge.

It's too fat
then it's too steep.

If you went down--

if you went down
under that ledge

with the impact of those lips
hitting ya...

it's like getting me to come
to their funeral, you know?

[♪♪♪]

CORTNEY:
I still remember the day.

The water was real dark
and we thought,

oh, let's just go
and have a look. We'll just...

You know,
we don't have to surf it,

just go check it
and Kerby being Kerby,

as soon as we got there,
he just jumped in

and grabbed the rope
and he goes, "Tow me into one."

[♪♪♪]

[jetski whirring]

CORTNEY:
As soon as he got his first wave

we were you know,
screaming and so excited.

And that was it.
Well I was, you know,

I was just like, ah
this place is insane.

Just like that a wave
that we never thought

was rideable becomes surfable

and yeah, ever since that day
we never looked back.

KERBY:
It was the first really scary wave

we took on together
and you know,

he'd seen me get a few
and he was like,

"Yeah! I want to get one too."

Whoo!

Of course, we're screaming
and hooting.

You know, that was--
that was the start.

[laughs]

[♪♪♪]

[Kerby gasping, coughing]

[coughing]

You all right?

Oh, just lucky I had this on.

I feel like I got my foot stuck
in like a crack or something.

CORTNEY:
Fuck, that was heavy!

Just deep in that thing
on the rock.

[speaks indistinctly]

I looked down
and you weren't there

and I was like, "No!"

KERBY:
Clarry is the best little brother

I could have ever asked for.

And since the day he was born,
we were inseparable.

We have been through
a lot together.

The bond
that we've built up over time

is a special one.

He's my wingman.
He's my partner in crime.

We really can read
each other very well.

He knows exactly
where I want to be

and I have complete faith
he's going to be there for me.

[♪♪♪]

Yes! That was a good one.
That was the best one. So far.

[jetski whirring]

[angelic vocalizing]

[Kerby gasping, grunting]

Come on, Kerb.

[gurgling, choking]

Fuck! What happened?

KERBY:
I hit my head on the reef that's all.

[groans]

Fuck!

When we're out there,
if I'm on the rope

and he's driving
I'm probably going to be

slightly more calculated

to which waves
I choose to let go on

and actually try to ride
whereas he's more...

He'll just have a go anyway
and he doesn't care.

GLENN:
You could get killed doin' that and his words were...

I say, "be careful, mate"
and he goes

"well what's the use
in doing it then?"

If I'm going to be careful.
It won't work.

[dog barks]

GLENN:
I was that damn busy, ah fishing,

I missed sadly,
the development of his passion.

I missed it. I didn't see it.

Nola saw it.

His mum took him everywhere

and it probably took me,

oh, a few years to realize
that I'm missing out.

I'm missing out on this.

You can't get that back,

no matter how much money
they give you. That's gone.

And I... I regret it badly,
what I did.

- KERBY: Ready to roll, mate?
- PHOENIX: Yup.

I can remember clearly
the feeling I got as a young kid

just starting to paddle
around beach breaks

and I remember the day
that I first caught

a little white water
and it reformed

into like a little wave
with a face on it

and yeah, just that feeling
of just stoked.

Like just...

I was instantly just thinking,
"Oh this is the best."

[♪♪♪]

♪ Know my world

♪ My world been changed

KERBY:
All these years later,

I'm still chasing an unknown
and that newness.

And push myself to places
that evokes that feeling

that I once had as a kid
for the first time.

That thrill and excitement.

CORTNEY:
Did you get some good ones, Phoenix?

PHOENIX:
Yeah.

The last one was the best one.

KERBY:
Phoenix, when me and Kit were little tackers

we used to walk down here
for earlies.

Don't you reckon it seemed like
the hugest bay

when you were out there?

When you were out the back,

it felt like you were
way out to sea.

CORTNEY:
When he started going to Gnarloo

and then you started seeing
these crazy waves of him,

it's like, "Whoo, he's kind of
like stepped up

and started charging
a lot harder

than the rest of us."

[♪♪♪]

KERBY:
Oh, you're fucking joking.

You've gotta be-- Oh!

[Kerby laughing]

KERBY:
And then, yeah, after that when all the jetskis came

and he just started
going bonkers doing that.

Heaps of people
can learn to surf

but not a lot of people
can do it really good.

I think that's what he does.

He's just got
a really relaxed style

and he's relaxed when it's big.

So many of those waves
that he surfs is onto dry rock.

So, if you fall off
you're going to get hurt

and he gets hurt all the time.

Kerbs will always get
the best wave of the day

and he'll also get the biggest
wipeout of the day

because he's catching
the most gnarliest waves.

There's times
when you just think

he should have died on that one,
and pops back up

but he's got a perforated
ear drum

and he's got blood
coming out of his ears

and you know, it's heavy stuff.

And yeah,
he's had so many bad injuries

where you just think,

"God that's going to be
the last.

"He's going to give it up now,
can't come back from that one"

and then soon
as he's almost healed up,

he gets back out there again

because he
obviously needs the fix.

I guess
it's an addiction really,

surfing those kind of waves.

[waves crashes]

I wanted Kerby--

Kerby had the potential to be
a great comp surfer

and that was reflected
in his results

'cause then he didn't want it.

And that was
what frustrated everybody.

The bugger, if he'd
have wanted to,

we knew he could do it.
We felt like strangling him.

It was about surfing
terrible waves,

hassling, crazy,
competitive nature.

All the rules
and all that bullshit

that came with that.

I was just going,
"What am I doing here?"

A few times I remember getting
on the phone to Dad

and I was just like,
"I'm hating this.

Like I just want to come home."

The more he pushed
the more I kind of pushed back

and by the end of the trip,

I was just so done with surfing
the contests

and grovelling
and dealing with all that.

Most of my stuff was given away.

I left it all behind.
I was done.

[♪♪♪]

KERBY:
Coming home and feeling the energy of the ocean.

It felt so good to be back.

CORTNEY:
There's nothing like you know,

having a brother
to go surfing with.

KERBY:
You got any waves?

Told you.

How far do we have to drive now?

[laughs] Three hours.

KERBY:
Then what?

CORTNEY:
We spent our whole 20s together, travelling,

looking for these
psychotic waves.

It was...
it was the best thing ever.

KERBY:
I wanted to explore more untouched areas

of the ocean
and push my own limits.

Not competing
against anyone else.

It's a bit of a mental game
with myself really.

And that led me down
to the bottom of Australia

where the ocean is more raw,
it's more alive

and it gets those deep
Southern Ocean swells.

WADANDI BOODJA
THE GREAT SOUTHERN WESTERN AUSTRALIA

KERBY:
It's like the edge of the Earth

off the bottom
of Australia there.

[waves crashes]

CORTNEY:
Yeah, there's nothing like seeing a new wave

for the first time

and just watching it
explode onto the reef.

It's gotta be one of the most
exciting things in the world.

[♪♪♪]

KERBY:
Oh, my God!

CORTNEY:
How thick are those things?

To sit there and mentally
mind-surf it and think,

"Is this wave rideable
or is it not?"

It's insane.

[waves crashes]

[♪♪♪]

KERBY:
The granite rocks around here are crazy.

It's kind of
what I'd imagine would be

under some of the slab waves.

Imagine a rock like this
below the sea level surface.

The whole ocean's coming out
of this deep section

and then just unloading around

this kind of top
of this rock shelf.

And that's what makes them
so different.

That's also what makes them
so heavy.

KERBY:
It's not about the size of the wave or the height.

It's more about
the thickness of the wave

and the amount of water
behind it.

[waves crashes]

KERBY:
There's a lot of chunks of ocean that fold onto rocks

that are just not quite there,

so you just gotta find
those ones

that just have
the right reef structure

to make them surfable.

[waves crashes]

KERBY:
These kind of waves are so unpredictable.

That's the scary part.

One wrong move
and it could be all over.

[waves crashes]

[♪♪♪]

CORTNEY:
You know all these waves that I saw for the first time,

Kerbs was the first person
I'd ever seen ride them.

It's fucking crazy.

[♪♪♪]

KERBY:
And the feeling you get is like nothing else.

Time slows down
for those few seconds

and your senses
are really heightened.

You're feeling your board
in the water,

little subtle movements

and then you feel the energy
take over you

and it's just such
a powerful force.

CORTNEY:
They reckon that old mate Kenny, that died last year,

reckoned there was
a sick wave off here

on the big South swell.

I don't know
if it's true or not.

- Really?
- Yeah.

- Off here?
- Off these rocks.

SHANZY:
First time I came down

I just stayed
with my mate Kale Grigson,

got introduced into the circle
and then they're all best mates

and so it didn't take long
before I met Shanzy

and have been hanging with him
ever since.

Probably hug him more
than I hug my chick.

[laughs]

[pullet squeaking]

KERBY:
Shanzy is such an underground legend.

He welcomed Clarry and I
into his world with open arms.

SHANZY:
When they used to come down

like they would make
light work of the waves.

We were kind of you know, going,

"Wow, you know
can you surf these waves,"

so other than-- yeah, you know,
they were charging.

[♪♪♪]

Definitely gave us
the kickstart we needed to--

- See.
- We...

We just though Shanzy
was the Lord from day dot.

[laughs]

KERBY:
He's had some of the craziest waves ever ridden down here.

[♪♪♪]

SHANZY:
What motivates him is just that thrill of surfing waves

that probably could potentially
kill you, I guess

and yeah,
that's just what he lives for.

When everyone else is panicking
and he seems

to be able to make
a heavy situation seem easy.

Every swell's different too.

This-- not every wave
is the same so you have to try

and have that ability
to be able to try

and slow it all down enough
to be able to process it,

like in a split moment really.

And that's the ability
that Kerbs has over most people

that he can decipher the code.

He's definitely in a league
of his own.

Yeah, for sure.

He's amazing. Yeah.

He's probably, maybe got
a few screws loose but...

[laughs]

[waves crashing]

You know when we first
come down here

and surfed a
couple of the waves,

I thought, you know that was it.

You can't do, you can't do
anything more insane than that.

It was fuckin'... [laughs]
it was crazy.

But it turns out you can.

[♪♪♪]

[vocalizing]

[♪♪♪]

[humming]

KERBY:
I always remember the old bloke playing music.

It was like all my baby photos
and stuff

surrounded by guitars

and now I look at them
and I'm like, "What happened?

I wish I played!"

[indistinct chatter]

- NOLA: Now, Nicole...
- NICOLE: Yes.

NOLA:
You've got to figure out if you are going to take

all these home with you?

We'll take them home definitely.

It's not that I don't want them

but I think they'd
be really nice...

Well you've destined them
to the shed.

NOLA:
This one was his very first one.

Yeah, that's Kerby's.
That was his very first one.

And I was pretty excited
when that one came out.

- NICOLE: [speaks indistinctly]
- Wasn't I? Wow.

Because you know,
it was a big thing then,

- wasn't it? To get a cover.
- Bloody hell yeah.

There was this awesome
early morning shot.

NOLA:
First trip to Bali.

GLENN:
Mum and Dad had been out the night before

and that was what
we brought them home.

NOLA:
What, the cocktails from the bar?

- Yeah, but we drank 'em.
- [Nola laughing]

GLENN:
We gave them the coconuts.

NICOLE:
So that's where the problem started? [laughing]

NOLA:
This is one of my favourites. Both of them.

Kerby on the ski,

which he's obviously
just towed him in. Haven't you?

KERBY:
Yeah, that was early days when we used to go down.

Kerby and Cortney.

We would have just gone down
and had that surf

and drove home. 24 hour drive.

One surf.
Spend all our money on fuel.

[laughs]

NOLA:
You'd had a huge night out before that wave, yeah?

Or maybe multiple.

CORTNEY:
Probably huge nights out before all of them.

GLENN:
That wave there, that was just unbelievable.

Look at it. Holy Christ!
It's got two lips.

If he makes it it's good
but if you get nailed

they like it more, you know?
Don't they?

They'd rather see somebody
get killed on that wave

than actually make it.

I thought Kerby
was going to get killed.

- I towed him into it.
- GLENN: Hmm.

NOLA:
Were you scared?

Yeah, that was the-- the--

safe to say that was the biggest
one out there at that time eh?

Or like the... thick...
just the...

- NOLA: The meanest.
- Yeah.

It was just low tide
and no water on the reef.

FEMALE NEWSREADER 1:
It's the Holy Grail for any surfer.

The perfect wave.

And one surfer, Kerby Brown,

found his literally
at the ends of the Earth.

A 40-foot giant at the bottom
of Australia.

FEMALE NEWSREADER 2:
It was pro-surfer Kerby Brown's dream

to ride a monster like that.

The wave nearly killed him.
Kerby Brown joins us...

KERBY:
I think everyone that surfs there

has got their own horror story.

Oh, mate!

Holy shit!

[♪♪♪]

[wave crashes]

KERBY:
When you go through one of those wipeouts,

you really get to know yourself
in that short amount of time.

[muffled panic]

KERBY:
You go really deep really fast.

It feels like your skull
is in a vice.

[high-pitched beeping]

[♪♪♪]

KERBY:
You have to slow your mind.

Can't black out.

[jetski whirring]

[♪♪♪]

NICOLE:
It's been quite a journey for us.

We had a lot of time apart
in our 20s.

Um, he was always travelling.

It was really hard
for both of us.

We would sort of pull apart

and we just would always
pull back together.

KERBY:
We figured if we are going to try this again,

let's do this properly.

I moved to Perth
to be with Nicole.

I moved there
because I loved her.

It was fun at first

and it was great
to be back with her

but it wasn't long
before things started to spiral.

I've always
had my own personal demons

that I've battled with
and I've used the ocean

to help me through
a lot of those times

and when I don't have the ocean
and I'm not surfing,

I tend to turn
to alcohol and drugs

to-- to get me through it.

[humming]

KERBY:
Yeah, I found myself getting down... felt depressed

and I felt so out of place.

NICOLE:
I could see it in his eyes.

It was like a determination
to self-destruct.

KERBY:
Getting a few charges here and there

and I'd get in
all sorts of trouble,

started getting injuries
through drinking.

NICOLE:
I would be really worried that he was going to overdose,

have a car accident.

There was like a million
different things

that could've gone wrong.

That was hard to watch.

KERBY:
When I'd come out of that haze

and realize I'd been
on a rampage to the city

and I hadn't been home
for four days,

I would come to the realization
and go, "Whoa."

Like I felt really guilty
and really bad

that I've put Nicole
through that again.

And I wasn't liking, you know,
the person that I was.

NICOLE:
One time he went surfing the heavier waves

and he was leaving
and I remember saying to him,

you know, "Please be safe,
you know, and come back safe."

And he just said to me,

"I couldn't give a fuck
if I die."

There were a couple of times
where I said I just can't.

I gotta... I gotta
step away from this.

It was breaking my heart.

But at the end of the day,
I'm you know,

I'm not his mother,
I'm his partner

and I wasn't there
to babysit the guy.

He needed to make better choices
for himself.

[wind howling]

It was my birthday
and I walked out

to the lounge room

and Kerby's laying there
watching TV

and I remember saying to him,
"Please don't freak out.

You are not allowed to freak out
'cause I'm really freaking out,

so you're not allowed
to freak out.

So, please promise me
you're not going to freak out."

And he was just looking at me
like, "What do you mean?"

And I said, "I'm pregnant"
and he just looked to me

and he just went, "Fuck!"

[wave crashes]

[♪♪♪]

I was feeling overwhelmed
and anxious and kind of yeah,

afraid of what was about
to happen

or what was about to come,
you know?

I was definitely thinking
about you know...

where I was in my life
at that point in time

and what I would need to do
to better myself

and... I had a lot of doubt
that I could be a good father

and change my life so quickly.

[♪♪♪]

KERBY:
As soon as you hold your child in your arms,

everything just changes.

To realize it's not about you
any more.

You've got this life,
this new life, and you've...

You've got to do
the best you can

to give them the best life.

[kids humming]

Seen Uncle Clarry
get a wave yet?

- [speaks indistinctly]
- That wind's fully gone round.

This is what we surf over.

This is what we hit
when we fall off.

This?

See, how spiky that is?

Have you seen Uncle Clarry
out there, Sahara?

- There he goes.
- SAHARA: There.

NICOLE: [laughs]
Pretty decent.

KERBY:
Ohh!

Kit helped me out immensely
at that stage of my life

when I was kind of a bit lost
and you know,

time to step up
and get a proper job.

My Dad went and worked
in the oil and gas industry

so he got me into that

and Kerby would,
you know he'd always ask us,

"How do you get into it?"

And I would always say,
"Nah, don't do it.

Don't do it for
as long as you can."

You know I'm doing it
and it's good money

but yeah, you're out away
for five weeks

and then you come back
for five weeks.

KERBY:
If I didn't have a kid on the way,

I probably would never have gone
into that industry

but it's worked out
the way it is.

[♪♪♪]

[refinery rumbling]

KERBY:
I feel like we're all just forced

to be part of this machine.

They try and mould you
into this structured society

and you're kind of
not really taught

to look at the bigger picture,
and the beauty and life.

You're put into this mould
from an early age

and that's what I've always
struggled with.

I feel like...
that's the monster--

that's the monster
I've been trying to get away

from my whole life.

There's got to be a way to feel
and to live completely.

CORTNEY:
Kerby's looking for new waves.

He's looking for something
bigger and thicker and...

I don't know
if you can get shallower

than what's already been surfed.

But yeah, I don't think
it will end until...

Yeah, until we can't do it
any more. [chuckles]

That's the whole reason
he moved down south.

He left here to be closer
to those waves

and that's... that's a 100%
the bottom line.

That's why they live there.

They packed up everything to go
live next to all the monsters.

[laughs]

It's like--
it's like kindergarten up here

compared to down there.

[♪♪♪]

[waves crashing]

KERBY:
It was one of the hardest decisions I've ever had to make,

moving this far from my brother.

WADANDA BOODJA
THE GREAT SOUTHERN WESTERN AUSTRALIA

KERBY:
I really want to make the most of my time here.

I'm pushing myself
as far as I can...

but that comes at a heavy cost.

[birds calling in distance]

Clarry said it's pretty much
100% certain he can surf.

- Yep.
- Tow you in. Okay.

He said "lock it in"
so that's pretty firm from him.

Yeah, he never says,
"lock it in."

[both laughs]

He's always like,
"Um, yeah, maybe."

NICOLE:
Yeah, maybe.

I know what he does
is really dangerous

and it's really risky.

I see so much chaos
in this world

and there's so many people

that choose to go down
paths of self-destruction

that is so unhealthy,
that are so dangerous

and hurt so many people
around them.

And Kerby's found something
in his life

that is dangerous,
but it's also so uplifting

and so inspiring
and it's a healthy sport.

It's a healthy activity.
It's a healthy form of art.

It's a beautiful thing
to see that connection

he has with the ocean

and all that that brings to him
and to our lives.

- How are you, brother?
- [laughs]

- Hello, mate.
- Hey, mate. How are ya?

- Great. Where shall we park?
- Just pull up just behind me

and then you can get your stuff
out easy

and just kind of go through
the other gate.

Sweet.

[birds calling]

The ski's been like randomly
not starting, eh?

No. That's not
what you want out there.

[laughs]

Yeah, I don't know
what's going wrong with it.

It's time for an upgrade.
It's been through a bit, eh?

CORTNEY:
It's been through so much.

[laughs]

KERBY:
So Phoenix, I'm going to be gone

by the time you come
back from school.

- See ya, mate.
- See ya.

Love you.

[sobbing]

NICOLE:
He'll be home again soon though.

[Sahara babbling]

So, looks like we're heading
right down

to the bottom of Australia.

Um, we've been there before

and to be honest,
I didn't think I'd ever go back.

Without a doubt I think

it's the heaviest zone
in the world.

You've got the rawest
ocean swells

just exploding onto dry ledges.

It's isolated, you know,

you're hours
from medical attention

if something happens...
and I mean...

Yeah it's just scary.

It's so unpredictable.

Like one wave

might be the most insane thing
you've ever seen

and the next one
will just completely explode

into itself,
and there's just no, no way out.

Kerbs has had his eye
on these other few waves

down in that area
that are just, you know,

next level again.

[birds calling]

- KERBY: Put it through here.
- SAHARA: Mm-hmm.

KERBY:
You push it through. That's it. That's the one.

And then pull this.
Pull this one back.

Beautiful.

I want to go up there.

You want to go up there.
Well you can.

Just make sure
you don't fall off.

- SAHARA: Ooh.
- [Nicole grunts]

- [groans]
- [Nicole laughs]

NICOLE:
She was saying she wants to go with you earlier.

- Do you want to come with me?
- Mm-hmm.

KERBY:
I don't think it will be very safe for you

- to come on this trip.
- NICOLE: Maybe another one.

KERBY:
You might be safer staying home with Mum this time.

- No. No.
- [chuckles]

We'll do lots of fun things
when I get back. Okay?

[Nicole growls]

NICOLE:
Good girl.

- Sahara.
- NICOLE: Hey.

Daddy's gotta go, baby.

NICOLE:
He'll be back soon.

I'll go out of reception
as of tomorrow arvo probably.

NICOLE:
Yeah.

So, if I'm off the grid,
you know why?

NICOLE:
Yeah.

I'll contact you
as soon as I can.

NICOLE:
Sure. Yeah.

Hope you get some good waves,
Dad! Wohoo!

Go get all the good waves, Dad!

[both grunts]

Alright I'd better get going.

- NICOLE: He's gotta go, bubs...
- Bye.

NICOLE:
...or you'll be driving in the dark.

Go to Mummy.

All right, I love you.

- [smooches]
- SAHARA: Mummy.

NICOLE:
I love you. I love you. I love you.

All right, Bub. Love you.

- SAHARA: Mummy.
- KERBY: Love you.

Come back safe please.
In one piece would be nice.

I'll do my best.
Bye sweetie.

NICOLE:
Bye. Bye, Dad. Bye. Bye, Dad.

- Bye, Dad.
- NICOLE: Bye, Dad.

[♪♪♪]

KERBY:
There's a huge fear in not coming home to my family,

and not being there for my kids.

I really don't want
to have those thoughts

going through my head

while I'm trying to do
what I do.

I don't see what I'm doing
as a reckless thing any more.

I'm trying to be calculated
with it.

[jeeps whirring]

WAUDAARN
SOUTHERN COAST WESTERN AUSTRALIA

[wind howling]

Just done a 15 and a half
hour drive to get here ...

and it looks pretty promising.

Good work.

The winds just coming up
and it's pretty chilly so...

The things we do.

[wind howling]

Oh, that was a brutal night.
The wind started howling.

- The side of the swag was...
- [mimics vibration]

- [chuckles]
- ...fully vibrating.

I looked outside
and chairs were blown over.

[laughs]

Why do we do this again?

Not to mention
it's three degrees right now.

Let's get out into the abyss.

Fuck!

[♪♪♪]

[jetski whirring]

- CORTNEY: Fuck!
- KERBY: Oh!

- Oh look at that!
- Pretty dry.

[both laughs]

[waves crashing]

KERBY:
How's that, thick and perfect that was!

CORTNEY:
The left's pretty psycho.

What side do you want
to go down?

KERBY:
Just come in right behind it.

[jetski whirring]

[♪♪♪]

It gets pretty bouncy.

CORTNEY:
Yeah, you don't know what the fuck's going on

coming into them.

♪ Dreamers

♪ They never

♪ They never learn

♪ Beyond the point

♪ Of no return

Oh, that's shallow.

CORTNEY:
Is this something you reckon?

KERBY:
Yeah.

♪ The damage is done

♪ The damage is done

[♪♪♪]

CORTNEY:
What was that like?

KERBY:
You know, they're pretty dry.

[jetski whirring]

♪ This goes

♪ Beyond me

♪ Beyond you

[jetski whirring]

CORTNEY:
Fuck, I thought you were going to be on that rock

when you popped up then!

♪ A white room

♪ By a window

♪ Where the sun comes

♪ Through

♪ We are

♪ Just happy to serve

♪ Just happy to serve

♪ You

[♪♪♪]

CORTNEY:
Oh, the rock is just hanging completely out now.

[waves crashing]

[jetski whirring]

KERBY:
Fuck, it would have been good to have been deeper

and not to have to drag that.

[waves crashing]

CORTNEY:
You want to try one more?

[♪♪♪]

[angelic vocalization]

CORTNEY:
Fuck. You all right?

I thought you just died.

I looked down...

I looked down
and I was holding this

and you let go
and there was just no water,

there was just rock.

My fins were whistling,

that's how fast it was
on the reef.

Whoo!

CORTNEY:
Oh, that looked terrifying.

Fuck. Where's your board?

KERBY:
Don't know where it went. My favourite board.

[Clarry laughing]

CORTNEY:
Can't believe it. My board.

[♪♪♪]

You almost forget
how evil it is,

don't you, Clarry?

Just everywhere.

- CORTNEY: I haven't forgotten.
- [chuckles]

KERBY:
Just need that swell to be there.

[wind howling]

[angelic vocalization]

[♪♪♪]

[jetski whirring]

KERBY:
I've been sussing out this one particular spot

on Google Earth for years,
and it's so far out

that you know that the next
landmass out from here

would be Antarctica.

Holy shit! Look at that thing.

[waves crashing]

KERBY:
Yeah, that rock is fairly sticking out.

Fuck, the reef shape is so good.

[angelic vocalization]

KERBY:
This is sick.

I reckon
we could almost surf it, eh?

It's got such a shoulder,
like a channel on it.

CORTNEY:
Yeah.

Yeah, this is the wave
I've kind of had my eye on

for a few years.

I haven't been here long

but it looks like
it's got legit potential, eh?

- [angelic vocalization]
- [waves crashing]

KERBY:
Look at that thing!

That's the most twisted wave
I've seen.

Oh. [laughs]

It's going to be so hard
to pick them, I reckon.

[waves exploding]

KERBY:
Whoa!

CORTNEY:
Are you kidding me?

[angelic vocalization]

KERBY:
Look at this one! What the fuck fuck!

[chuckles]

Gonna go feel it out.
Is there wax?

- More different wax?
- No.

[speaks indistinctly]

What are those explosions, eh?

[waves exploding]

You want a bit of wall, eh?

I'll do a loop.

[jetski roaring]

- CORTNEY: This one?
- KERBY: Yeah, mate.

[muffled panic]

[high-pitched beep]

[jetski whirring]

CORTNEY:
Fuck, man! Are you all right?

You got to get up more.

[Kerby groans]

Careful. [mumbles]

- I've hurt my back. My back.
- CORTNEY: I got you. I got you.

Lay down. I've got you.
Lay down.

We're gonna get you
back to the boat.

Lay down mate.

[speaks indistinctly]

I've got ya.
Straight to the boat.

Keep hold of that, mate.
I got ya. Grab my hands.

In the middle of my back.
[speaks indistinctly]

Corts! Hold up.

The middle of my back
is real sore.

If you lay down...

I think I'm going to sit.

[groans]

[indistinct chatter]

[♪♪♪]

How the fuck
are we going to do this?

I know it's really getting
mighty fucked up.

He's got a gnarly cut
on his head

and his back's like fucked.

Mate, his head
is really fucking bad.

I'm just gonna fuckin' drive.

You reckon
you'd be able to stand?

Hang on it.

[indistinct chatter]

CHRIS:
You're on the deck, mate.

SEMARK:
Okay sit down. That's it.

Turn around a bit.
[speaks indistinctly]

- How's that? You right?
- [groans]

The pain is in between
my shoulders.

CHRIS:
Can you put some pressure on that, Semark?

SEMARK:
Yeah, I've got that.

CHRIS:
It's going to hurt a bit Kerby. I'll keep it on nice and tight.

- [groans]
- You're right. Big breaths.

Keep that pressure on, Semark.
Get more bandages.

Hey Ric, we're gonna wrap
this up real tight.

[Kerby groans]

- You're alright, mate.
- I know. I know.

I'm not worried
about my head.

I'm worried
about my fucking back.

IMOGEN:
Just keep it tight.

Yeah, just don't put
pressure on it

'cause it's hurting his
shoulders. Just keep...

- IMOGEN: Keep it straight?
- CHRIS: Yeah.

CHRIS:
Yeah that's it. I'll hold that there.

KERBY:
My neck's okay.

We need to get you laid down
on the deck.

He wants to try and stand up.

- IMOGEN: Is that okay?
- Yep.

Come on,
lay that out on the deck.

[speaks indistinctly]

Nice and slow.
Nice and slow. We got you.

Let's go. Nice and gentle.
There we go.

Head back.

[indistinct chatter]

CHRIS:
Can we get something under his head? Some towels.

- Fuck!
- IMOGEN: He can't breathe.

Slow and steady breaths.

[♪♪♪]

[♪♪♪]

[humming]

[indistinct chatter]

NICOLE:
Yeah.

NOLA:
You're very, very, very lucky. Very lucky.

Where the disc came out
with the vertebraes in the neck,

if it came out the other side,

it would have severed
the spinal cord.

So, it's just luck
of the angle there.

Cortney was very traumatized.

He was... I think he was
you know, near tears.

He reckons he was done.
He goes, "I'm done."

[Sahara babbles]

KERBY:
Just the little moments

that maybe I had taken
for granted in the past,

I'm really soaking them in now.

[♪♪♪]

KERBY:
You know you could do everything right

and it doesn't matter
in some of these waves.

They're just going to put you
in your place

and make you feel
so insignificant.

GLENN:
Hello. [laughs]

Ah g'day, mate.

How am I going to get on?

GLENN:
You've got to get on over here.

- [groans]
- Hey, Dad.

- Nice to see you, mate.
- I'll grab that ladder.

KERBY:
I don't have much strength at the moment.

- GLENN: You alright?
- KERBY: Oh, yeah.

Did you get the hook?
The hook got him.

- How's it going?
- How you goin', mate?

[laughs]

You got your beard back already.

CORTNEY:
How you doing?

KERBY:
How'd you go?

GLENN:
We didn't get that many crays today.

17 baskets,
which is not that good

- but that's okay.
- CORTNEY: How's your trip?

Pretty long. Yeah, so...

CORTNEY:
How did you go in the car for that long?

Yeah, I'm pretty stiff
as you can imagine.

GLENN:
What about where your head was?

Right here.

Oh yeah, yeah, yeah.

See? I actually just went...

GLENN:
Yeah, I can see it.

I was only just
at the doctor yesterday

'cause he swabbed
it 'cause it had staph.

So that's... four months
and it's still giving me grief.

Um, but... I don't know,

originally we thought
there was only four breaks

but there was four in my neck
and then two below.

- That was pretty lucky.
- GLENN: Yeah.

KERBY:
Pretty happy I'm just moving around to be honest.

Yeah.

Well, he already said
to do a spinal head injury again

and with this all being fused,

it's going to be
significantly worse

than what it was,
which is pretty bloody bad.

It just escalates the situation
so much more.

It was already so heavy
and now if you hit your head,

there's a pretty good chance
you're not coming up this time.

I feel like I dodged that bullet

and I've been given
another chance

and is that another chance
to keep doing

what I'm doing or
is that my chance...

GLENN:
Or another chance to live.

...to-- yeah.

I know Nicole would love me
to stop doing it.

GLENN:
You've got to go, "If I do this, Phoenix isn't going to be

able to get to school
in the mornings.'

Yeah, well, that's--
that's right. It's not just me.

It's a huge factor
and before they came along,

it wouldn't even be a question.

I'd just be back out there
as soon as I was able.

The thought of not doing it,

I can't even fathom it
right now.

Yeah.

KERBY:
I don't know if I can do that.

I don't know
if I can be happy, content,

sitting on the sidelines
wondering.

Yeah...

it's all up in the air.
What do you reckon, Clarry?

How would you feel
about towing me

- into those waves again?
- Oh, man, I don't know.

I don't know.
I don't know how I felt

towing you into those waves
to begin with.

- GLENN: Yeah.
- KERBY: I know.

CORTNEY:
Yeah.

As much as I'd love to be able
to say, "Oh, no. I can't do it."

Well, then I'd be afraid

that you were just going to go
do it anyway

and in that case
I'd obviously rather be the one

that was there with you
to put you in...

KERBY:
Harm's way.

Yeah, to put you on those waves

and... [chuckles]

...try to do it as successfully
as possible I guess.

GLENN:
At the time I didn't know

that you weren't going
to be able...

I didn't know if you were going
to be able to walk again.

You know... I didn't know.

That's how it was that night.

I was thinking,
you know, fucking great.

Took a beer into the music room
and I was just sitting in there

and I started playing this song.

I was just putting words to it
as I went

and I didn't know
what was going to happen to you.

[♪♪♪]

♪ Know my world

♪ My world been changed

♪ Hey my world

♪ My world just changed

♪ Hear my signal calls

♪ Take on that lonely road

♪ To one day be that destiny

♪ And let destiny
be their soul ♪

♪ He might ask them why

♪ They don't answer, babe

♪ You come back again

♪ They don't want you to stay

♪ Hey my world

♪ My world been changed

♪ Know my world

♪ My world just changed

♪ The passion runs so deep

♪ Most too deep to find

♪ Like a newborn's hearty cry

♪ They're here in time

♪ You say that the ghost

♪ By the grace of your Lord

♪ And he ain't got no shame

♪ The way to live by the soul

♪ Know my world

♪ My world been changed

♪ Hey my world

♪ My world just changed

[♪♪♪]