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This is the start of my most
adventurous and exotic journey yet.
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00:00:08,960 --> 00:00:12,960
But I'm beginning somewhere
that will be familiar to most of us.
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00:00:12,960 --> 00:00:15,960
Today, millions of people
visit Venice
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00:00:15,960 --> 00:00:19,960
for her glorious art
and her flamboyant architecture.
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00:00:19,960 --> 00:00:21,960
But everything here
comes from the wealth
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00:00:21,960 --> 00:00:23,800
which was gained by the Venetians
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00:00:23,800 --> 00:00:25,320
when they turned their eyes
to the East
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00:00:25,320 --> 00:00:27,960
and started trading along a route
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00:00:27,960 --> 00:00:30,960
that stretched from here,
right across to China.
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00:00:32,960 --> 00:00:35,960
This 7,000-mile journey
follows the route
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00:00:35,960 --> 00:00:37,960
of the legendary Silk Road,
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00:00:37,960 --> 00:00:41,960
whose ancient travellers and traders
shaped so much of how we live.
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00:00:41,960 --> 00:00:47,640
These little darlings have made
people richer than a king's ransom.
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00:00:47,640 --> 00:00:51,000
From the unique and surprising
traditions of Azerbaijan...
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00:00:51,000 --> 00:00:53,160
SMASH
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00:00:53,160 --> 00:00:55,960
..to the stunning desert citadels
of Central Asia...
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00:00:55,960 --> 00:00:57,960
TEXAN ACCENT: Oh, my Lord!
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00:00:57,960 --> 00:01:00,960
..and the lost civilisations
of Iran...
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00:01:00,960 --> 00:01:04,960
GASPS
I mean, the scale of it!
20
00:01:04,960 --> 00:01:07,960
..the impact of the Silk Road
is huge.
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Holy smoke.
22
00:01:09,640 --> 00:01:10,800
GASPS
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It's so hot!
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How lovely is this?
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The air's like silk.
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It's like being in a jewel box.
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00:01:18,960 --> 00:01:21,960
It's quite extraordinary
to come to this place.
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It is so remote.
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But I'm here.
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This first leg takes us
from majestic Venice,
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through Albania,
to wealthy Istanbul...
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They are gold?
Gold-plated.
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Wow.
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..and on to the mysterious caves
of Cappadocia.
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This is very small.
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00:01:41,960 --> 00:01:44,960
I meet the wild shepherds
of the remote highlands of Turkey.
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No, thank you.
LAUGHS
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So won't you come with me
on my Silk Road adventure,
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00:01:53,000 --> 00:01:58,960
on a journey along a road that
literally changed all our lives?
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00:01:58,960 --> 00:02:02,960
Avanti batello! But not too fast.
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00:02:16,960 --> 00:02:18,960
This extraordinary city,
built in the sea
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00:02:18,960 --> 00:02:21,320
by people fleeing their enemies,
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00:02:21,320 --> 00:02:23,960
with sailing and trading
in their blood,
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00:02:23,960 --> 00:02:27,960
grew to have one of the richest and
most powerful empires in history.
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00:02:27,960 --> 00:02:30,320
I can remember coming to Venice
for the first time
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when I was maybe in my late 20s
or early 30s,
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and I couldn't think why I'd never
been here before. It seems to me
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one of the most important places
in the world to visit.
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Because you can't get your head
round it. It's in the sea.
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This is saltwater we're driving on.
It's absolutely astonishing.
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00:02:48,480 --> 00:02:53,480
Venice became one of the richest and
most influential cities in Europe,
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all because of the trade
that came along the Silk Road.
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And it's the perfect place
to start my adventure.
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00:02:59,960 --> 00:03:03,960
All over the city, you see evidence
of other influences coming in.
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00:03:03,960 --> 00:03:07,960
It feels quite different
from other Italian cities.
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00:03:07,960 --> 00:03:11,000
And that's simply because
it was one of the end destinations
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00:03:11,000 --> 00:03:14,960
of the Silk Road.
Everything came to Venice.
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It was revelling in everything new,
it grabbed all the new ideas.
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A luxurious, shimmering fabric,
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00:03:24,960 --> 00:03:27,480
made thousands of miles away
in China,
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00:03:27,480 --> 00:03:30,960
was one of the most valuable imports
to Venice,
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00:03:30,960 --> 00:03:34,800
And was the moneymaking catalyst
that gave the Silk Road its name.
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00:03:34,800 --> 00:03:38,640
Once, there were 30,000 silk workers
in Venice.
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00:03:38,640 --> 00:03:41,960
But these days,
it's a very exclusive business.
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Oh, look, Bevilacqua.
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That's where we are going.
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The Bevilacqua family has been
involved with silk for 500 years
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00:03:50,960 --> 00:03:53,960
and today has a client list
that includes the Kremlin,
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00:03:53,960 --> 00:03:56,960
the White House, and a plethora
of high-fashion labels.
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Buongiorno.
Buongiorno.
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00:03:58,960 --> 00:04:02,960
Please come in.
Thank you.
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A treasure trove.
GASPS
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00:04:05,960 --> 00:04:08,960
Here, they specialise in
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00:04:08,960 --> 00:04:11,960
some of the finest, most intricate
silk brocades in the world...
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00:04:11,960 --> 00:04:13,960
Look at this.
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00:04:13,960 --> 00:04:17,960
..and the family owns a priceless
archive of over 3,500 patterns
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that date back to Byzantine times.
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00:04:20,320 --> 00:04:23,960
Alberto, tell me everything
about silk.
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Probably was discovered in China.
Yeah.
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And imported in Europe
in the 13th century.
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They say by Marco Polo.
Marco Polo.
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00:04:34,640 --> 00:04:36,960
Yes, yes.
When did they make velvet?
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00:04:36,960 --> 00:04:39,960
Who invented that?
When did they make it?
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A genius.
A genius.
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Velvet was produced in Venice
from 14th century.
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00:04:46,800 --> 00:04:49,960
Venice was very famous
in the Renaissance period
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00:04:49,960 --> 00:04:52,960
for the velvet production
and also for all fabrics production,
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so all merchants came here in Venice
to buy the most beautiful fabrics.
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00:04:55,960 --> 00:05:00,000
I read that there were 6,000 looms
in Venice alone.
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00:05:00,000 --> 00:05:03,160
And we are the only one left now.
No! Yeah.
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00:05:07,480 --> 00:05:08,640
GASPS
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AWESTRUCK SIGH
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00:05:10,960 --> 00:05:13,800
Look at all these different colours
moving into there.
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00:05:13,800 --> 00:05:17,960
Bevilacqua's silk brocades
are all still made by hand
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00:05:17,960 --> 00:05:19,960
on looms
that are hundreds of years old.
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00:05:21,960 --> 00:05:26,960
Incredibly skilful, the way she cuts
with this little cutting machine,
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00:05:26,960 --> 00:05:28,960
and then she whips one of these
metal blades out,
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feeds it in the other side, and then
about four shuttles of this.
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Maddalena, is it quite easy to do?
Shall I have a go?
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00:05:38,640 --> 00:05:39,960
No.
No?
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You need years and years
to learn this.
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00:05:43,960 --> 00:05:45,320
Do you?
Yeah.
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I mean, the whole thing,
it's got a mystery.
104
00:05:49,960 --> 00:05:51,960
And you think that the world,
in the old days,
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00:05:51,960 --> 00:05:55,960
every bit of fabric made
was made on looms like this.
106
00:05:55,960 --> 00:05:59,960
Gee whiz. Respect.
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00:05:59,960 --> 00:06:03,960
From its first appearance in Europe,
silk was highly prized.
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00:06:03,960 --> 00:06:06,320
Workshops across Venice
laboured day and night
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00:06:06,320 --> 00:06:08,960
to satisfy the fever for silk.
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00:06:08,960 --> 00:06:12,960
In those days, it must have seemed
like a gift from heaven. Yeah.
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00:06:12,960 --> 00:06:14,960
But hand looms like these
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00:06:14,960 --> 00:06:17,960
can only produce around
40 centimetres of fabric a day.
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It's so fine,
it's almost unbelievable.
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How much? How much does it cost?
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00:06:25,320 --> 00:06:30,960
A lot.
Yes. Around 5,000 euros per metre.
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00:06:32,960 --> 00:06:34,960
This may be an ancient craft...
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Look at this.
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00:06:36,960 --> 00:06:40,960
..but you still have to exit
via the very contemporary gift shop.
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00:06:40,960 --> 00:06:43,960
So this is handmade.
What are we talking about,
120
00:06:43,960 --> 00:06:45,960
what kind of money
are you going to set me back
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00:06:45,960 --> 00:06:49,480
for this gorgeous thing, Maddalena?
About 1,500.
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I'll take five.
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00:06:53,960 --> 00:06:55,480
Hoo-hoo-hoo!
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00:07:00,160 --> 00:07:04,960
Silk, cotton, glass,
spices, flowers,
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00:07:04,960 --> 00:07:08,960
medicines, horses,
philosophy, architecture.
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00:07:08,960 --> 00:07:11,800
All these things
travelled along the Silk Road.
127
00:07:11,800 --> 00:07:15,480
But not everything it brought
was welcome.
128
00:07:15,480 --> 00:07:20,000
Three times, the bubonic plague
came to Venice via the Silk Road.
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In the last attack, in 1629,
it killed 50,000 people,
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00:07:25,960 --> 00:07:27,960
a third of the city's population.
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00:07:28,960 --> 00:07:32,960
The Santa Maria della Salute,
which means St Mary of Good Health,
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00:07:32,960 --> 00:07:34,960
was built to give thanks to God
133
00:07:34,960 --> 00:07:37,800
for those who managed to survive
the awful ordeal.
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00:07:40,960 --> 00:07:44,640
Little, narrow alleyway,
look at that. Only as wide as this.
135
00:07:45,960 --> 00:07:47,960
A bit of a whiff here.
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00:07:47,960 --> 00:07:49,960
They always say a bit of a smell,
you want that,
137
00:07:49,960 --> 00:07:52,960
you don't want
a non-smelling Venice.
138
00:07:55,960 --> 00:07:58,960
It's fitting that
this great seafaring nation
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has a boat as its best-known icon.
140
00:08:02,960 --> 00:08:05,960
Gondolas have been around
for over 1,000 years,
141
00:08:05,960 --> 00:08:09,960
and the wealthy Venetians
used them as private limos.
142
00:08:09,960 --> 00:08:12,960
Such was the excess of
gaudy decoration in the 16th century
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00:08:12,960 --> 00:08:16,480
that the government decreed
they must all be black.
144
00:08:17,960 --> 00:08:19,960
Which is your gondola,
is it over there?
145
00:08:19,960 --> 00:08:23,320
It's over there today.
The one on its own.
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00:08:23,320 --> 00:08:26,960
I'm not working,
the gondola's covered for the night.
147
00:08:26,960 --> 00:08:28,960
How many gondoliers
are there in Venice?
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00:08:28,960 --> 00:08:31,480
We are 433.
You know that exactly?
149
00:08:31,480 --> 00:08:33,960
It is a fixed number. The government
fixes the number of licences.
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That's all?
Yeah.
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00:08:35,960 --> 00:08:38,960
Is this your uniform? Yes.
Does everybody wear the same?
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All the drivers
have to wear the shirt like this,
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blue and white or red and white.
Do you have a hat?
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I have the hat, it's in the boat.
We usually leave it there.
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Is that part of the uniform?
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Yes, even if most of the gondoliers
don't like it too much,
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because it's really uncomfortable.
LAUGHS
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But we wear it.
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Gondoliers have a reputation
of being lady-killers,
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00:09:01,960 --> 00:09:05,960
everybody adores a gondolier.
Is that true, are you a lady-killer?
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00:09:05,960 --> 00:09:09,960
Me, not. For sure,
while we are driving the boat,
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00:09:09,960 --> 00:09:11,960
it's easier to meet people,
and sometimes, it's easy to...
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Be charming.
Yeah.
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And be very fit.
Yeah, most of us, yes.
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And we sit there going,
"How lovely."
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One man whose name is synonymous
with the Silk Road is Marco Polo.
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When he was just a teenager,
his father and uncle,
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already established traders,
took him on a gap year
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that would turn into an odyssey
through countless countries
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from Italy to China.
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Marco's account would become
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00:09:41,160 --> 00:09:43,960
one of the most important
travel documents ever written.
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00:09:46,160 --> 00:09:49,960
When Marco Polo
returned to Venice, 1295,
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00:09:49,960 --> 00:09:52,960
he'd been away for 17 years.
He'd left when he was 17.
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He'd changed so much that his family
couldn't recognise him
176
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by his appearance and his language.
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He'd forgotten his native Venetian
178
00:09:59,960 --> 00:10:01,960
and he just looked and behaved
quite differently.
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00:10:01,960 --> 00:10:05,960
After all, he'd been staying with
Kubla Khan in Xanadu,
180
00:10:05,960 --> 00:10:07,960
these legendary names.
181
00:10:07,960 --> 00:10:11,960
And he had, of course,
amassed a cache of treasures.
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00:10:11,960 --> 00:10:15,960
He was the first Merchant of Venice.
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00:10:18,960 --> 00:10:23,160
Marco, his father, and uncle Matteo,
were made trusted envoys
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00:10:23,160 --> 00:10:27,480
of the mighty 13th century
Mongolian Emperor Kubla Khan.
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00:10:27,480 --> 00:10:29,960
They were issued with
a special type of passport,
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00:10:29,960 --> 00:10:32,160
a foot-long solid gold bar,
187
00:10:32,160 --> 00:10:34,960
which - aside from
weighing them down a tad -
188
00:10:34,960 --> 00:10:38,960
guaranteed them safe passage
through Khan's vast empire,
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00:10:38,960 --> 00:10:41,480
that stretched all across Asia.
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00:10:41,480 --> 00:10:43,960
During their travels,
they would see paper money,
191
00:10:43,960 --> 00:10:46,960
gunpowder and porcelain
for the very first time.
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00:10:46,960 --> 00:10:49,960
Alessandra.
Joanna. Welcome.
193
00:10:49,960 --> 00:10:51,960
Ciao. Grazie.
194
00:10:51,960 --> 00:10:53,960
Dr Alessandra Schiavon
has unearthed,
195
00:10:53,960 --> 00:10:56,480
from deep within
the Venetian archives,
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00:10:56,480 --> 00:10:59,960
some rarely-seen
14th century documents
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00:10:59,960 --> 00:11:02,640
with a remarkable link
to the Polo family.
198
00:11:04,960 --> 00:11:07,480
Alessandra,
what are these documents here?
199
00:11:35,960 --> 00:11:37,960
Alessandra has also
uncovered evidence
200
00:11:37,960 --> 00:11:42,800
of some surprising artefacts that
were passed down within the family.
201
00:11:51,960 --> 00:11:53,960
Wow. Wow.
202
00:11:59,960 --> 00:12:01,320
Wow.
203
00:12:01,320 --> 00:12:04,960
It may seem odd to see spices
listed in a will,
204
00:12:04,960 --> 00:12:08,960
but back then, pepper was known as
black gold, and was worth a fortune.
205
00:12:08,960 --> 00:12:12,960
These ancient documents
have brought the past to life,
206
00:12:12,960 --> 00:12:16,960
and they paint a vivid picture
of the Silk Road's huge influence.
207
00:12:16,960 --> 00:12:20,000
Alessandra,
I am beginning this long journey
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00:12:20,000 --> 00:12:23,960
to follow some of the routes
that the Silk Road took.
209
00:12:23,960 --> 00:12:27,960
It is so thrilling
to start our story with Marco Polo,
210
00:12:27,960 --> 00:12:31,960
because he's a name
of such legendary fame.
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00:12:31,960 --> 00:12:34,960
So you've given me good luck
for my journey
212
00:12:34,960 --> 00:12:37,640
and I want to thank you
very much indeed.
213
00:12:37,640 --> 00:12:40,960
BOTH GIGGLE
You are a honey.
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00:12:43,960 --> 00:12:46,320
It's always sad
to leave a city of such beauty.
215
00:12:46,320 --> 00:12:48,960
But it's time to get moving.
216
00:12:48,960 --> 00:12:51,960
Ciao, Venezia, ciao Serenissima!
217
00:12:53,960 --> 00:12:57,960
Venice's trading empire
was connected by fortified ports.
218
00:12:57,960 --> 00:13:00,000
I'm hopping 600 miles
down the Adriatic
219
00:13:00,000 --> 00:13:03,960
to one of them, the city of Durres
on the coast of Albania.
220
00:13:05,320 --> 00:13:08,480
For 40 years, Albania
was a communist dictatorship.
221
00:13:08,480 --> 00:13:10,960
But since breaking free in 1989,
222
00:13:10,960 --> 00:13:13,960
its rugged mountains
and Mediterranean climate
223
00:13:13,960 --> 00:13:16,960
have been attracting people
from all over the world.
224
00:13:19,960 --> 00:13:22,960
This is Durres,
which was a Venetian stronghold.
225
00:13:22,960 --> 00:13:25,960
But I tell you the truth,
it doesn't look remotely Venetian,
226
00:13:25,960 --> 00:13:27,960
or even Roman or Italian,
in any way.
227
00:13:27,960 --> 00:13:30,480
These days,
it seems to have been colonised
228
00:13:30,480 --> 00:13:31,960
by middle-aged sun worshippers.
229
00:13:31,960 --> 00:13:34,960
But in the past,
it was the Greeks, Romans,
230
00:13:34,960 --> 00:13:37,960
Ottomans and Germans
who tried to take over.
231
00:13:37,960 --> 00:13:41,960
This is good, bit Roman,
bit gladiatorial.
232
00:13:41,960 --> 00:13:44,960
I've come here on the hunt
for an ancient Roman highway
233
00:13:44,960 --> 00:13:46,960
that became a vital part
of the Silk Road.
234
00:13:49,960 --> 00:13:51,960
And this is the Venetian tower.
235
00:13:51,960 --> 00:13:55,960
This was built to mark the beginning
of the Via Egnatia,
236
00:13:55,960 --> 00:13:58,960
the Roman road
which ran all the way to Istanbul.
237
00:13:58,960 --> 00:14:01,960
All I've got to do now is find it.
238
00:14:01,960 --> 00:14:04,960
GASPS
Rruga Egnatia!
239
00:14:06,960 --> 00:14:09,960
That way to the sea, this, inland.
240
00:14:11,960 --> 00:14:15,960
Most of the ancient 600-mile-long
Via Egnatia is long gone.
241
00:14:15,960 --> 00:14:18,960
But archaeologist Dr Ols Laffer
has a hunch
242
00:14:18,960 --> 00:14:21,960
he knows where part of
the original road still exists,
243
00:14:21,960 --> 00:14:24,960
just to the east
of the town of Elbasan.
244
00:14:24,960 --> 00:14:27,960
So it started off originally,
Roman legions marching along
245
00:14:27,960 --> 00:14:30,640
and their eagles on banners
and things like this.
246
00:14:30,640 --> 00:14:32,960
Saints came along, Crusaders.
247
00:14:32,960 --> 00:14:34,960
Roman roads
were like modern highways.
248
00:14:37,000 --> 00:14:39,960
Ols has brought us
to this narrow gorge,
249
00:14:39,960 --> 00:14:41,480
apparently with good reason.
250
00:14:41,480 --> 00:14:43,960
After Roman soldiers
were persistently attacked
251
00:14:43,960 --> 00:14:47,960
in such places, it became policy
to build roads around them.
252
00:14:47,960 --> 00:14:49,960
So he and I
are heading for the hills.
253
00:14:49,960 --> 00:14:51,960
GASPS
My God, are we on the way?
254
00:14:51,960 --> 00:14:53,960
Is it here?
Well, we will look for it.
255
00:14:53,960 --> 00:14:56,960
Have you been here before?
No. I haven't been on this section
256
00:14:56,960 --> 00:14:58,960
of the Roman road.
Gosh, so we are hunting together.
257
00:14:58,960 --> 00:15:02,960
I think this is real archaeology
happening right now, the two of us.
258
00:15:02,960 --> 00:15:05,800
You lead the way, Ols.
All right.
259
00:15:07,960 --> 00:15:10,960
Ols, can I have your hand?
Thank you.
260
00:15:10,960 --> 00:15:12,960
Shale-y, slippery.
Yeah.
261
00:15:12,960 --> 00:15:14,960
Don't fall down the gorge
and leave me.
262
00:15:14,960 --> 00:15:17,640
Ha! I will not.
263
00:15:18,960 --> 00:15:22,960
What do you think?
We should be very close.
264
00:15:22,960 --> 00:15:25,960
This looks quite good, doesn't it?
A bit Roman road-y.
265
00:15:25,960 --> 00:15:31,960
You can feel it.
You are on a path here. You see?
266
00:15:31,960 --> 00:15:36,640
Is this it? Is this the Roman road?
Yes, this is a section of the road.
267
00:15:36,640 --> 00:15:40,960
Wow. It's not that I'm, you know,
a pessimist or anything,
268
00:15:40,960 --> 00:15:43,960
but I'm not sure
this is centurion rock.
269
00:15:43,960 --> 00:15:46,960
It might be.
But it doesn't tell me it is.
270
00:15:46,960 --> 00:15:53,960
Well, if you can hold on for another
15 seconds, you've got the path.
271
00:15:53,960 --> 00:15:57,960
Ols, I can see it now. Now I get it.
272
00:15:57,960 --> 00:15:59,960
Sturdy.
Yeah.
273
00:15:59,960 --> 00:16:01,960
Lots of layers.
Yep, pretty flat.
274
00:16:01,960 --> 00:16:04,960
Pretty good for walking on.
Look, on these very stones!
275
00:16:04,960 --> 00:16:07,960
You just have to imagine
the carts and the horses
276
00:16:07,960 --> 00:16:10,960
and the people
travelling on the roads.
277
00:16:10,960 --> 00:16:12,960
Look, a centurion's thigh bone.
LAUGHS
278
00:16:12,960 --> 00:16:14,960
They were much smaller
in those days.
279
00:16:14,960 --> 00:16:16,960
This was the highway
280
00:16:16,960 --> 00:16:22,960
linking the eastern part
of the Adriatic to Constantinople,
281
00:16:22,960 --> 00:16:24,480
to modern-day Istanbul.
282
00:16:24,480 --> 00:16:28,960
It was THE road. It has been here
for over 2,000 years.Gee.
283
00:16:28,960 --> 00:16:32,960
This is the Via Egnatia,
this is part of the Silk Road.
284
00:16:32,960 --> 00:16:35,960
Apart from being the Roman road,
this is part of the road
285
00:16:35,960 --> 00:16:39,960
that went not only to Constantinople
- far beyond.
286
00:16:39,960 --> 00:16:43,960
So coming along here were silks
from China
287
00:16:43,960 --> 00:16:47,960
and gunpowder and paper.
Connecting the dots.
288
00:16:47,960 --> 00:16:52,960
East and West coming together
on a big road.
289
00:16:52,960 --> 00:16:54,800
Wow.
290
00:16:57,480 --> 00:16:59,960
The Romans were obsessed with silk,
291
00:16:59,960 --> 00:17:01,960
so much so that the Senate
tried to ban it.
292
00:17:01,960 --> 00:17:04,000
Too much Roman gold
was going to China
293
00:17:04,000 --> 00:17:06,960
and the fabric was thought to be
far too revealing.
294
00:17:06,960 --> 00:17:09,960
Centuries after the Romans
were here,
295
00:17:09,960 --> 00:17:12,960
this whole area was part of
the Ottoman Empire.
296
00:17:12,960 --> 00:17:16,960
And some stunning physical legacies
remain.
297
00:17:16,960 --> 00:17:21,480
This is the classical
Ottoman Bridge.
298
00:17:21,480 --> 00:17:24,960
I love it here.
Albania is so beautiful.
299
00:17:24,960 --> 00:17:27,480
Thank you.
It's so full of richness.
300
00:17:27,480 --> 00:17:33,160
Culture, people, the food, the wine.
Good wine?
301
00:17:33,160 --> 00:17:35,960
Mm-hm. We should try it.
LAUGHS
302
00:17:35,960 --> 00:17:39,960
Don't tell me in your backpack...
There is a bottle.
303
00:17:39,960 --> 00:17:40,960
LAUGHS
304
00:17:40,960 --> 00:17:45,000
Did you bring a corkscrew?
I brought everything.
305
00:17:45,000 --> 00:17:48,800
How do I say cheers?
Gezuar.
306
00:17:48,800 --> 00:17:50,960
Gezuar.
Gezuar.
307
00:17:54,800 --> 00:17:55,960
Mmm.
308
00:17:57,960 --> 00:18:00,960
Leaving Elyria,
as Albania was known,
309
00:18:00,960 --> 00:18:03,960
the road stretches on through
Greece, Macedonia and Turkey,
310
00:18:03,960 --> 00:18:07,960
ending in one of the most important
cities in the world...
311
00:18:07,960 --> 00:18:10,960
You are a darling girl, thank you.
Welcome to Istanbul.
312
00:18:10,960 --> 00:18:12,960
..where I'll be offering
helpful tips on entertaining
313
00:18:12,960 --> 00:18:14,960
to one of the city's richest women.
314
00:18:14,960 --> 00:18:17,960
During dinner parties,
you could hire somebody to swim,
315
00:18:17,960 --> 00:18:20,960
looking absolutely beautiful,
just down there.
316
00:18:30,160 --> 00:18:32,160
Straddling both Europe and Asia,
317
00:18:32,160 --> 00:18:34,960
Istanbul, formerly Constantinople,
318
00:18:34,960 --> 00:18:38,960
is where trade routes, cultures
and religions have long collided.
319
00:18:38,960 --> 00:18:43,960
Christianity, Judaism, Islam,
and the mystical Sufism -
320
00:18:43,960 --> 00:18:46,960
still practised
by the Whirling Dervishes.
321
00:18:46,960 --> 00:18:50,800
The city is a fabulous mix
of people and beliefs.
322
00:18:52,960 --> 00:18:55,960
For 2,000 years, this city
has been throbbing with life,
323
00:18:55,960 --> 00:19:00,480
with traders, with merchants,
with missionaries, with soldiers,
324
00:19:00,480 --> 00:19:03,960
with everybody rushing through here
to buy and sell.
325
00:19:03,960 --> 00:19:06,960
It's now got 19 million people,
but even in the old days,
326
00:19:06,960 --> 00:19:08,960
everybody in the world came here.
327
00:19:08,960 --> 00:19:10,960
From China,
bringing their goods for Egypt,
328
00:19:10,960 --> 00:19:13,640
Venetians bringing their stuff
329
00:19:13,640 --> 00:19:15,960
to come through
up to Russia and to India.
330
00:19:15,960 --> 00:19:18,480
It was always the centre.
331
00:19:21,960 --> 00:19:25,320
Istanbul's Galata district
was an ancient trading hub.
332
00:19:25,320 --> 00:19:28,960
In the 13th century, this was
the non-Muslim part of the city,
333
00:19:28,960 --> 00:19:32,960
where Venetian and Genoese
trading colonies were established.
334
00:19:32,960 --> 00:19:34,960
This is the hardware district.
335
00:19:34,960 --> 00:19:38,960
Everywhere you look,
there are saws and grips and taps
336
00:19:38,960 --> 00:19:40,960
and washers and nuts and bolts.
337
00:19:40,960 --> 00:19:43,960
And of course, things made of lead
and tin and iron,
338
00:19:43,960 --> 00:19:46,960
which were transported up and down
the Silk Road in the old days.
339
00:19:46,960 --> 00:19:50,800
This is part of the harbour on those
sort of docklands of the harbour.
340
00:19:50,800 --> 00:19:52,960
So it's just absolutely thriving,
341
00:19:52,960 --> 00:19:54,960
how it would have been
in the old days.
342
00:20:01,960 --> 00:20:04,960
Could I have some tea?
343
00:20:04,960 --> 00:20:06,960
The mighty Bosphorus,
344
00:20:06,960 --> 00:20:08,960
that connects the Black Sea
with the Mediterranean,
345
00:20:08,960 --> 00:20:11,960
is one of the busiest
shipping channels in the world,
346
00:20:11,960 --> 00:20:14,160
and is still the lifeblood
of the city.
347
00:20:14,160 --> 00:20:18,960
Can you see that beautiful
cream house with the red roof?
348
00:20:18,960 --> 00:20:20,960
That's where I'm going.
It's pretty fabulous,
349
00:20:20,960 --> 00:20:25,960
I've been invited to have a look
round this very rich woman's house.
350
00:20:25,960 --> 00:20:29,960
Successful traders have always built
their lavish houses
351
00:20:29,960 --> 00:20:31,960
on the waterfront.
352
00:20:31,960 --> 00:20:34,480
I'm going to meet
Demet Sabanci Cetindogan,
353
00:20:34,480 --> 00:20:37,960
whose family
is one of Turkey's grandest...
354
00:20:37,960 --> 00:20:40,000
What's my hair like?
355
00:20:40,000 --> 00:20:44,960
..with assets believed to be worth
between £15 billion and £25 billion.
356
00:20:44,960 --> 00:20:46,960
KNOCKS
357
00:20:46,960 --> 00:20:48,960
Merhaba.
358
00:20:48,960 --> 00:20:53,960
Owning one of these houses is
a bit like having a Mayfair mansion,
359
00:20:53,960 --> 00:20:56,960
and could set you back
well over £100 million.
360
00:20:56,960 --> 00:20:59,640
What a gorgeous place
to bring somebody
361
00:20:59,640 --> 00:21:01,960
to have them just sit and wait.
362
00:21:01,960 --> 00:21:04,960
I don't feel like sitting down.
There are so many things.
363
00:21:04,960 --> 00:21:08,960
GASPS
How divine is this?
364
00:21:08,960 --> 00:21:11,960
Hello.
Demet!
365
00:21:11,960 --> 00:21:15,320
You are a darling girl.
Welcome to Istanbul.
366
00:21:15,320 --> 00:21:16,960
Thank you so much.
You are welcome.
367
00:21:16,960 --> 00:21:20,320
This is a palace,
this is a paradise, isn't it?
368
00:21:20,320 --> 00:21:22,960
How long have you lived here?
18 years.
369
00:21:22,960 --> 00:21:24,160
18 years. 18 years.
Oh, my gosh.
370
00:21:24,160 --> 00:21:29,800
Your family has been substantially
wealthy for a long time?
371
00:21:29,800 --> 00:21:32,960
The Sebanci family,
we have a private bank,
372
00:21:32,960 --> 00:21:36,960
one of the biggest private banks
at the moment in Turkey.
373
00:21:36,960 --> 00:21:41,960
Cement factory, oil factory,
a clothing factory,
374
00:21:41,960 --> 00:21:44,960
so many different lines,
we are in business.Yes.
375
00:21:44,960 --> 00:21:47,960
Will you show me
your beautiful house?
376
00:21:47,960 --> 00:21:51,960
I am so thrilled to be here.
I'm not looking completely brilliant
377
00:21:51,960 --> 00:21:53,960
because I came on the ferry.
No, no, no, no.
378
00:21:53,960 --> 00:21:56,960
Goodbye, beautiful room.
379
00:21:56,960 --> 00:21:59,960
Demet has also introduced
some luxury brands to Turkey,
380
00:21:59,960 --> 00:22:03,960
such as Alexander McQueen, Gucci,
and dear old Harvey Nicks.
381
00:22:03,960 --> 00:22:06,960
GASPS
This is the Turkish bath area.
382
00:22:06,960 --> 00:22:10,640
This is very original
type of toilet.
383
00:22:10,640 --> 00:22:14,960
Yes, how adorable, how beautiful.
Yes.
384
00:22:14,960 --> 00:22:17,960
This is the original Turkish bath.
385
00:22:17,960 --> 00:22:22,960
Do you still use this?
Yes. My husband likes very much.
386
00:22:22,960 --> 00:22:23,960
Could not be lovelier.
387
00:22:23,960 --> 00:22:29,960
These are Ottoman silver mirrors.
They believe that it's an evil eye.
388
00:22:29,960 --> 00:22:34,800
When you turn, you see the mirrors.
Isn't that lovely?
389
00:22:34,800 --> 00:22:37,960
After they see themselves,
they turn it back.
390
00:22:37,960 --> 00:22:40,960
Sometimes, at my age,
I would like to keep it like this.
391
00:22:40,960 --> 00:22:41,960
LAUGHS
No.
392
00:22:41,960 --> 00:22:44,960
I think we would quite like to keep
the mirrors turned to the wall,
393
00:22:44,960 --> 00:22:47,960
just have a little glimpse
in very good lighting. Marvellous.
394
00:22:47,960 --> 00:22:53,960
When it comes to her dining room,
Demet does nothing by halves.
395
00:22:53,960 --> 00:22:56,960
My gosh. These look gold.
Yes, they are gold.
396
00:22:56,960 --> 00:22:59,960
They are gold?
Gold-plated.Wow.
397
00:22:59,960 --> 00:23:01,960
And look at those caricatures.
Can you imagine?
398
00:23:01,960 --> 00:23:04,960
She's got a bit of a look of Patsy
about her, this one.
399
00:23:04,960 --> 00:23:07,160
I've got a little bit of a glass,
going, "Hello, darling."
400
00:23:07,160 --> 00:23:11,960
And I adore
the subterranean swimming pool.
401
00:23:11,960 --> 00:23:13,960
You could get,
during dinner parties,
402
00:23:13,960 --> 00:23:17,960
you could hire somebody to swim,
looking absolutely beautiful,
403
00:23:17,960 --> 00:23:19,960
just down there.
Yes!
404
00:23:19,960 --> 00:23:21,960
If you want to understand the wealth
405
00:23:21,960 --> 00:23:25,960
that trade between nations brings,
come to Istanbul.
406
00:23:25,960 --> 00:23:27,960
Thank you. Thank you so much.
To your good health.
407
00:23:27,960 --> 00:23:29,960
Thank you for coming.
It's brilliant.
408
00:23:29,960 --> 00:23:34,960
Asia is where the Silk Road splits
and fragments.
409
00:23:34,960 --> 00:23:38,960
In the centre of Turkey lies
the fairy-tale region of Cappadocia.
410
00:23:43,960 --> 00:23:48,320
This area is famed for
its astonishing landscapes,
411
00:23:48,320 --> 00:23:51,480
peppered with thousands
of intriguing caves.
412
00:23:51,480 --> 00:23:55,160
And my hotel just happens to be
inside one.
413
00:23:57,960 --> 00:23:59,960
Come and look at this,
it's fantastic.
414
00:23:59,960 --> 00:24:03,960
This beautiful, beautiful place.
Rough-cut stone.
415
00:24:03,960 --> 00:24:07,960
These old walls.
This gorgeous bathroom.
416
00:24:07,960 --> 00:24:09,960
Alcoves for putting bags and bits
and pieces.
417
00:24:09,960 --> 00:24:11,960
How about that?
418
00:24:11,960 --> 00:24:15,960
Look how well it converts
into modern living.
419
00:24:15,960 --> 00:24:20,960
It's not only modern living,
but extremely classy modern living.
420
00:24:20,960 --> 00:24:23,960
And then through here, look,
this dressing room.
421
00:24:23,960 --> 00:24:26,320
This is a real little cave here.
422
00:24:26,320 --> 00:24:28,960
My gosh, I wonder what went on
in these rooms all those years ago.
423
00:24:28,960 --> 00:24:31,960
What would they have used this one
for?
424
00:24:31,960 --> 00:24:36,960
And out onto this fantastic terrace,
look at this view.
425
00:24:36,960 --> 00:24:40,160
What a landscape.
426
00:24:42,960 --> 00:24:46,960
60 million years ago, volcanic ash
rained down on Cappadocia.
427
00:24:46,960 --> 00:24:52,960
Over millennia, nature has formed
these extraordinary rock formations.
428
00:24:52,960 --> 00:24:56,480
A short drive south-east of my hotel
429
00:24:56,480 --> 00:24:58,960
lies the little-known
Keslik Monastery,
430
00:24:58,960 --> 00:25:01,960
which looks like
some kind of termite mound.
431
00:25:05,960 --> 00:25:07,960
Little place, look at this.
432
00:25:07,960 --> 00:25:09,960
Oh, it's so sad and shabby.
433
00:25:09,960 --> 00:25:12,960
The interior of this tiny monastery
434
00:25:12,960 --> 00:25:16,640
is, at first sight,
defaced and vandalised.
435
00:25:16,640 --> 00:25:18,960
Graffiti all over the place.
436
00:25:18,960 --> 00:25:20,960
But, looking more carefully,
437
00:25:20,960 --> 00:25:23,960
there seem to be faint
Christian figures staring back.
438
00:25:23,960 --> 00:25:26,960
I can see pictures,
I can see paintings.
439
00:25:26,960 --> 00:25:29,960
Turkey is now
a predominantly Muslim country,
440
00:25:29,960 --> 00:25:32,960
but 2,000 years ago,
St Paul travelled through here,
441
00:25:32,960 --> 00:25:35,960
and Cappadocia
converted to Christianity.
442
00:25:35,960 --> 00:25:38,960
There are stories up there,
I can't quite see what they are.
443
00:25:38,960 --> 00:25:40,960
And then a mass of people here.
444
00:25:40,960 --> 00:25:43,960
Is it the Last Supper?
What's going on?
445
00:25:43,960 --> 00:25:48,960
That must have been Christ,
with his face chipped off.
446
00:25:48,960 --> 00:25:51,960
Oh,
I wish these hadn't been destroyed.
447
00:25:51,960 --> 00:25:56,640
Hello, welcome to monastery.
You speak English.
448
00:25:56,640 --> 00:25:58,160
My name is Jabir.
Jabir, I'm Joanna.
449
00:25:58,160 --> 00:26:02,960
Jabir Coskun grew up playing
amongst the ruins of the monastery,
450
00:26:02,960 --> 00:26:04,960
and for generations,
451
00:26:04,960 --> 00:26:06,960
his family have been the unofficial
guardians of the site.
452
00:26:06,960 --> 00:26:08,960
What are the... Explaining?
Yes, explaining. Yes.
453
00:26:08,960 --> 00:26:11,960
Can you tell me,
the black is from smoke?
454
00:26:11,960 --> 00:26:15,960
Yes, long time ago,
wintertime very cold,
455
00:26:15,960 --> 00:26:18,320
people come in here,
fires, all black.
456
00:26:18,320 --> 00:26:20,960
Of course they do.
Jabir, will you show me in here?
457
00:26:20,960 --> 00:26:25,960
Is this the Last Supper?
Last Supper here.
458
00:26:25,960 --> 00:26:28,960
Sorry. Last Supper.
That's the Last Supper.
459
00:26:28,960 --> 00:26:31,160
How did you learn all this?
460
00:26:31,160 --> 00:26:34,800
Where did you learn it, at school?
No.
461
00:26:44,960 --> 00:26:47,960
So you took it all in
and you remembered it all.
462
00:26:47,960 --> 00:26:52,000
Tell me, why are the faces...
Who? What happened?
463
00:26:54,640 --> 00:26:56,960
I was assuming that
the defacing of these images
464
00:26:56,960 --> 00:26:58,960
was done by non-Christians,
465
00:26:58,960 --> 00:27:00,960
destroying something
that was against their beliefs.
466
00:27:00,960 --> 00:27:05,160
But Jabir has learned
of another fascinating explanation.
467
00:27:27,800 --> 00:27:29,960
Gosh. Well.
468
00:27:32,960 --> 00:27:35,960
Just ten minutes down the road,
hidden in a high valley,
469
00:27:35,960 --> 00:27:38,960
I'm told there is one of
the greatest jewels of Cappadocia,
470
00:27:38,960 --> 00:27:42,960
in what used to be a pigeon loft.
471
00:27:45,800 --> 00:27:48,960
Oh, look at these paintings!
472
00:27:48,960 --> 00:27:52,960
This is majestic.
473
00:27:52,960 --> 00:27:55,960
Absolutely every inch of it painted.
474
00:27:55,960 --> 00:27:58,960
Bright and fresh,
and all the details
475
00:27:58,960 --> 00:28:01,160
which I couldn't see
in the other little church.
476
00:28:01,160 --> 00:28:05,960
This is the Dark Church, and it took
a decade of painstaking cleaning
477
00:28:05,960 --> 00:28:08,960
to restore it
to its present-day splendour.
478
00:28:08,960 --> 00:28:12,960
Look at this.
We've got a lovely angel here,
479
00:28:12,960 --> 00:28:15,640
holding out his hands
onto more angels,
480
00:28:15,640 --> 00:28:17,960
touching them on the head, going,
"There we are."
481
00:28:17,960 --> 00:28:19,960
Nativity.
482
00:28:19,960 --> 00:28:22,960
So, as ever, I make all this up
as I go along
483
00:28:22,960 --> 00:28:27,960
with the faintest grasp
of my Christian upbringing
484
00:28:27,960 --> 00:28:30,960
at a wonderful convent
where they told us all this.
485
00:28:30,960 --> 00:28:33,960
And I was sharpening my pencil
at the back of the class
486
00:28:33,960 --> 00:28:35,960
and drawing pictures
of Elvis Presley.
487
00:28:35,960 --> 00:28:39,960
But it did go in a bit.
488
00:28:39,960 --> 00:28:42,960
Cappadocia has more wonders
to reveal.
489
00:28:42,960 --> 00:28:45,960
A labyrinthine underground city
has just been discovered,
490
00:28:45,960 --> 00:28:48,960
and I'm going to explore it.
491
00:28:48,960 --> 00:28:50,800
This is extraordinary.
492
00:28:56,800 --> 00:29:02,960
Cappadocia's fairy-tale landscape
looks like nothing on earth,
493
00:29:02,960 --> 00:29:04,960
no matter which way you look at it.
494
00:29:04,960 --> 00:29:09,960
But below ground, archaeologists
are still uncovering its secrets.
495
00:29:09,960 --> 00:29:13,960
Beneath the city of Nevsehir,
they recently discovered
496
00:29:13,960 --> 00:29:17,960
an intricate, subterranean network
of chambers,
497
00:29:17,960 --> 00:29:20,960
where it's believed Silk Road
traders once took shelter.
498
00:29:20,960 --> 00:29:24,960
It's being hailed as one of Turkey's
most important archaeological finds
499
00:29:24,960 --> 00:29:28,960
in decades - and I've been granted
exclusive access.
500
00:29:28,960 --> 00:29:30,960
Hi, I'm Joanna.
Sami.
501
00:29:30,960 --> 00:29:35,960
Head archaeologist Sami
is going to show me around.
502
00:29:35,960 --> 00:29:38,640
This is extraordinary.
503
00:29:57,800 --> 00:30:01,320
Hoo-hoo-hoo! Look at this, Sami,
it goes back and back.
504
00:30:11,640 --> 00:30:14,800
This is where the horses
would have been tethered, is it,
505
00:30:14,800 --> 00:30:16,960
and they would have eaten from here?
Yeah.
506
00:30:16,960 --> 00:30:18,960
Can see that's worn slightly
from a rope,
507
00:30:18,960 --> 00:30:22,960
somebody tying a horse or a camel
or a mule, I guess.
508
00:30:22,960 --> 00:30:24,480
My gosh.
509
00:30:24,480 --> 00:30:28,960
They'd have been so cool in here,
such a restful place.
510
00:30:28,960 --> 00:30:30,960
Can you imagine, all the horses,
as you're going past?
511
00:30:30,960 --> 00:30:33,960
WHINNIES
512
00:30:33,960 --> 00:30:35,480
LAUGHS
513
00:30:35,480 --> 00:30:38,960
Sami believes
this multi-layered underground city
514
00:30:38,960 --> 00:30:41,960
could date back
as far as the third century.
515
00:30:41,960 --> 00:30:43,960
And the archaeologists
are still working out
516
00:30:43,960 --> 00:30:46,960
what many of the rooms
were used for.
517
00:30:51,640 --> 00:30:52,800
Gosh.
518
00:30:58,960 --> 00:31:02,800
Subterranean living was not uncommon
in Cappadocia.
519
00:31:02,800 --> 00:31:05,000
Look in here!
520
00:31:05,000 --> 00:31:07,960
Up to 20,000 people
could live below ground,
521
00:31:07,960 --> 00:31:09,960
like a human ant colony.
522
00:31:09,960 --> 00:31:14,960
Partly to keep cool, but crucially
for protection from their enemies.
523
00:31:23,960 --> 00:31:24,960
Yeah.
524
00:31:24,960 --> 00:31:27,960
You just roll the stone across?
Yeah.
525
00:31:27,960 --> 00:31:29,960
And it would just go da-dum!
Yeah.
526
00:31:29,960 --> 00:31:32,800
Hoo-hoo-hoo!
527
00:31:32,800 --> 00:31:35,960
So this was absolutely secure.
528
00:31:35,960 --> 00:31:39,960
It would actually be like
the Bank of England here.
529
00:31:39,960 --> 00:31:42,320
No way in.
530
00:31:42,320 --> 00:31:45,960
Once safely behind
their solid-rock security door,
531
00:31:45,960 --> 00:31:48,960
inhabitants could flee
through the network of tunnels.
532
00:31:48,960 --> 00:31:53,160
So not down that lovely,
brightly-lit, rather huge tunnel,
533
00:31:53,160 --> 00:31:58,960
but this slightly...
Slightly smaller tunnel.
534
00:31:58,960 --> 00:32:00,960
Ooh, it's getting cooler now.
Yeah.
535
00:32:00,960 --> 00:32:04,960
Golly, you couldn't take much,
if you're making your escape,
536
00:32:04,960 --> 00:32:07,960
you could just take
literally your toothbrush, I think,
537
00:32:07,960 --> 00:32:10,000
as you rushed away
down this little corridor.
538
00:32:10,000 --> 00:32:13,960
And your dog, who could follow
patiently behind you.
539
00:32:13,960 --> 00:32:15,960
Possibly children, you know,
that sort of thing.
540
00:32:19,640 --> 00:32:21,960
It's got even smaller here,
quite small around the foot.
541
00:32:21,960 --> 00:32:23,960
Look, this is very small.
542
00:32:23,960 --> 00:32:27,960
Oh, sunlight!
543
00:32:27,960 --> 00:32:30,960
I never thought I'd be so pleased
to see the sunlight.
544
00:32:30,960 --> 00:32:33,960
LAUGHS
This has been so wonderful.
545
00:32:33,960 --> 00:32:37,640
Tesekkur ederim.
You've been so kind.
546
00:32:37,640 --> 00:32:39,160
I'm really thrilled.
547
00:32:39,160 --> 00:32:44,960
Cappadocia is fascinating, but
it's time to get back on the road.
548
00:32:44,960 --> 00:32:46,960
The dogs bark, the caravan moves on.
549
00:32:46,960 --> 00:32:49,320
I've got a train to catch tonight,
550
00:32:49,320 --> 00:32:52,960
a luxury that ancient Silk Road
travellers didn't have.
551
00:32:52,960 --> 00:32:56,960
Back then, they were on foot,
552
00:32:56,960 --> 00:32:59,320
with pack animals
carrying the heavy loads.
553
00:33:01,960 --> 00:33:05,640
In order to stay safe
and secure overnight,
554
00:33:05,640 --> 00:33:09,960
medieval-style motels sprung up
all along the route to Persia.
555
00:33:09,960 --> 00:33:13,960
These were known as caravanserai.
556
00:33:13,960 --> 00:33:18,960
Look at this entrance.
Gorgeous Islamic architecture.
557
00:33:18,960 --> 00:33:20,960
This huge great doorway.
558
00:33:20,960 --> 00:33:24,640
GASPS
And a vast courtyard.
559
00:33:24,640 --> 00:33:27,160
AWESTRUCK SIGH
560
00:33:27,160 --> 00:33:30,960
Look at this place!
561
00:33:30,960 --> 00:33:33,000
The scale of this
is just extraordinary.
562
00:33:33,000 --> 00:33:36,320
And to think that they built these
about every 30 miles,
563
00:33:36,320 --> 00:33:39,960
so that you were completely safe,
you just had to do a 30-mile journey
564
00:33:39,960 --> 00:33:42,160
and then collapse again,
relax, eat, drink,
565
00:33:42,160 --> 00:33:45,000
get your animals fed
and taken care of.
566
00:33:45,000 --> 00:33:48,960
Maybe do a bit of trading here,
who knows? Move on to it.
567
00:33:48,960 --> 00:33:51,640
Look how graceful this door is.
568
00:33:51,640 --> 00:33:52,960
Well.
569
00:33:52,960 --> 00:33:55,480
The merchants could all hunker down
here,
570
00:33:55,480 --> 00:33:57,800
and the animals
would all be tethered,
571
00:33:57,800 --> 00:33:59,960
and there'd be straw
and grass around
572
00:33:59,960 --> 00:34:01,960
and a great deal of munching
and grunting.
573
00:34:01,960 --> 00:34:05,960
These were so important.
574
00:34:05,960 --> 00:34:07,320
Big steps.
575
00:34:07,320 --> 00:34:09,960
You wonder why
they made them so big.
576
00:34:09,960 --> 00:34:11,960
I think it's because they said,
"We've got some blocks left.
577
00:34:11,960 --> 00:34:14,960
"Shall we just make the stairs
of these?" They said, "Bit high."
578
00:34:14,960 --> 00:34:16,960
And they said,
"Yeah, but people can manage it."
579
00:34:16,960 --> 00:34:17,960
There.
580
00:34:17,960 --> 00:34:21,960
GASPS
A sweet little tiny mosque.
581
00:34:21,960 --> 00:34:25,000
Look how tiny it is.
582
00:34:25,000 --> 00:34:27,960
Beautiful work around there.
583
00:34:27,960 --> 00:34:31,960
It's tiny, so I think you probably
nipped in here and said your prayers
584
00:34:31,960 --> 00:34:34,960
and pretty much nipped out again.
585
00:34:34,960 --> 00:34:40,960
If you listen, you can hear cars,
because this is on the main road.
586
00:34:40,960 --> 00:34:43,960
And it was the main road then.
This was one of the principal routes
587
00:34:43,960 --> 00:34:45,960
of the Silk Road,
going through Anatolia.
588
00:34:48,960 --> 00:34:52,960
This is the very road that travels
east to the city of Kayseri,
589
00:34:52,960 --> 00:34:55,960
where we're due to catch
the midnight train.
590
00:34:55,960 --> 00:34:56,960
TRAIN HONKS HORN
591
00:34:56,960 --> 00:35:00,800
The 14-hour journey ahead
will transport us over 500 miles,
592
00:35:00,800 --> 00:35:03,320
through the night, all the way
to the very east of Turkey,
593
00:35:03,320 --> 00:35:05,960
so I'm keen to find my bed.
594
00:35:05,960 --> 00:35:09,960
This one? Christ, I'll never get on.
595
00:35:09,960 --> 00:35:11,960
GRUNTS
Can you help me?
596
00:35:11,960 --> 00:35:14,960
Tesekkur ederim.
Thank you so much.
597
00:35:14,960 --> 00:35:16,960
It's heavy, isn't it?
598
00:35:16,960 --> 00:35:18,960
Thank you. Wonderful.
599
00:35:21,960 --> 00:35:25,960
That's wonderful, thank you so much.
600
00:35:25,960 --> 00:35:27,640
People coming to look at me
through the window.
601
00:35:27,640 --> 00:35:31,960
Hi. Two nice men. Very nice.
LAUGHS
602
00:35:31,960 --> 00:35:33,960
Ooh, we're off.
603
00:35:40,960 --> 00:35:42,960
Look at that. Isn't it divine?
604
00:35:42,960 --> 00:35:46,960
There's something so exciting about
travelling by train at night time.
605
00:35:49,000 --> 00:35:51,960
Whenever I get given
little free things
606
00:35:51,960 --> 00:35:53,960
like this, or foldaway toothbrushes,
607
00:35:53,960 --> 00:35:55,960
I keep them for occasions
just such as this.
608
00:35:55,960 --> 00:35:57,960
SNAP
609
00:36:01,960 --> 00:36:03,960
That's the end of that.
610
00:36:05,800 --> 00:36:08,960
Slippers off, facing outwards,
bad dreams don't walk in.
611
00:36:08,960 --> 00:36:12,960
Goodnight, sleep tight.
612
00:36:21,960 --> 00:36:24,960
After a few hours sleep
on the train,
613
00:36:24,960 --> 00:36:27,960
I awake
to a heart-stopping Elysian morning.
614
00:36:27,960 --> 00:36:29,960
And with a ravenous hunger.
615
00:36:33,960 --> 00:36:36,480
I am so longing for the breakfast.
616
00:36:36,480 --> 00:36:38,640
I don't know when it will come.
617
00:36:38,640 --> 00:36:39,960
When you've ordered something,
618
00:36:39,960 --> 00:36:42,960
you begin to just look forward
to it, your mind focuses on it.
619
00:36:42,960 --> 00:36:45,960
And it's not coming.
620
00:36:48,960 --> 00:36:51,960
Those people have been feasting.
621
00:36:53,320 --> 00:36:55,480
TRAIN HONKS HORN
622
00:36:56,960 --> 00:37:00,960
I love a long train journey. This is
a long one, about 14 hours, I think.
623
00:37:00,960 --> 00:37:02,960
Might as well relax.
624
00:37:03,960 --> 00:37:05,960
GASPS
625
00:37:05,960 --> 00:37:08,960
Well. Tesekkur ederim.
626
00:37:08,960 --> 00:37:10,960
Look at this little feast.
627
00:37:10,960 --> 00:37:15,640
We've got beautiful tomatoes,
walnuts, apricots.
628
00:37:22,960 --> 00:37:26,480
Last night, we boarded the train
in the city of Kayseri,
629
00:37:26,480 --> 00:37:30,960
and it's taking us east, passing
alongside the great Euphrates river,
630
00:37:30,960 --> 00:37:32,960
all the way to the city of Kars,
631
00:37:32,960 --> 00:37:36,000
near the border with Armenia
and Georgia.
632
00:37:39,960 --> 00:37:42,000
They're just keeping up
with the train, isn't it lovely?
633
00:37:50,960 --> 00:37:53,960
But instead of going
straight to the border,
634
00:37:53,960 --> 00:37:56,000
the beauty of the mountains
to the north of Kars,
635
00:37:56,000 --> 00:37:59,160
with their acres
of unspoiled Alpine meadows,
636
00:37:59,160 --> 00:38:01,480
causes us to side-track.
637
00:38:02,960 --> 00:38:06,960
140 years ago,
these hills also impressed
638
00:38:06,960 --> 00:38:08,960
a visiting Swiss cheesemaker,
639
00:38:08,960 --> 00:38:12,160
who recognised the potential
in these high summer pastures
640
00:38:12,160 --> 00:38:14,960
and started the locals
making a Gruyere
641
00:38:14,960 --> 00:38:17,480
to rival anything
found in Switzerland.
642
00:38:17,480 --> 00:38:23,320
The village of Bogatepe's reputation
for quality fromage
643
00:38:23,320 --> 00:38:25,960
has grown ever since.
644
00:38:25,960 --> 00:38:26,960
Czardas.
645
00:38:26,960 --> 00:38:31,960
Czardas is a fifth-generation
master cheesemaker.
646
00:38:31,960 --> 00:38:35,960
He's going to show me how to make
this unique Turkish cheese.
647
00:38:35,960 --> 00:38:39,960
And, I'm afraid,
challenge my look for today.
648
00:38:39,960 --> 00:38:43,960
I spent ages in the morning trying
to look nice. And then, honestly!
649
00:38:45,800 --> 00:38:47,320
Oh, this is actually quite chic.
650
00:38:47,320 --> 00:38:49,960
Pretty much loving that. Is that OK?
651
00:38:49,960 --> 00:38:51,960
Yeah!
652
00:38:51,960 --> 00:38:56,960
As an avid cheese fancier,
this has got me champing at the bit.
653
00:38:56,960 --> 00:38:59,960
Look at this! Look at this.
Is this milk, cheese?
654
00:38:59,960 --> 00:39:02,960
Milk.
Milk. OK.
655
00:39:02,960 --> 00:39:05,960
If you sit really close, you can
feel it spattering onto your face.
656
00:39:05,960 --> 00:39:08,480
This is fresh, fresh milk.
657
00:39:08,480 --> 00:39:11,800
Cheesemaking is common
across this area,
658
00:39:11,800 --> 00:39:15,160
but Turkish Gruyere
requires a specific technique.
659
00:39:16,960 --> 00:39:22,800
After rennet has been added to
the milk, it's heated and then cut.
660
00:39:22,800 --> 00:39:25,000
Oh, superior craftsmanship.
661
00:39:25,000 --> 00:39:26,960
Ooh!
662
00:39:26,960 --> 00:39:29,960
Can I do this side? Can I try?
663
00:39:29,960 --> 00:39:32,960
CHUCKLES AND GRUNTS
664
00:39:32,960 --> 00:39:34,960
Then it's mixed up with... dustpans?
665
00:39:34,960 --> 00:39:37,960
Oh, look, look, look.
Casual behaviour.
666
00:39:37,960 --> 00:39:41,960
Then thrashed
with these funny-looking things.
667
00:39:41,960 --> 00:39:43,960
If I came
and worked in a cheese factory,
668
00:39:43,960 --> 00:39:47,960
cos I love cheese,
I could get a really fit torso.
669
00:39:47,960 --> 00:39:51,000
And I'd have very good arms.
Can I see your arm?
670
00:39:51,000 --> 00:39:54,960
Phwoar.
LAUGHS
671
00:39:54,960 --> 00:39:57,960
Very, very good.
I'll show you mine later.
672
00:40:01,800 --> 00:40:02,960
LAUGHS
673
00:40:02,960 --> 00:40:05,960
The way they handle it is like
handling a really fat toddler,
674
00:40:05,960 --> 00:40:08,640
trying to put it in its pushchair
or something.
675
00:40:08,640 --> 00:40:12,960
The curds are all gathered up
and squashed into a giant press.
676
00:40:12,960 --> 00:40:14,480
Lovely.
677
00:40:14,480 --> 00:40:18,000
And then taken below,
where over five months,
678
00:40:18,000 --> 00:40:20,960
the magic begins to form.
679
00:40:20,960 --> 00:40:22,640
Ooh-hoo-hoo!
680
00:40:22,640 --> 00:40:26,960
The smell in here,
isn't that beautiful?
681
00:40:33,960 --> 00:40:36,960
GASPS
Look, we're gonna spear in. Yay!
682
00:40:38,960 --> 00:40:45,960
That's about as good as anything
I've ever eaten in my life, ever.
683
00:40:45,960 --> 00:40:46,960
CHUCKLES
684
00:40:46,960 --> 00:40:50,960
These magnificent rounds of cheese
will roll their way
685
00:40:50,960 --> 00:40:56,960
back down the Silk Road, and sell
for £500 each in Istanbul or beyond.
686
00:40:56,960 --> 00:40:58,960
I just adore cheese.
687
00:40:58,960 --> 00:41:01,960
If I didn't love cheese so much,
I'd be so thin.
688
00:41:01,960 --> 00:41:05,480
People would go, "Who is that
unbelievably thin old woman?"
689
00:41:05,480 --> 00:41:07,960
But because I eat cheese,
690
00:41:07,960 --> 00:41:11,960
they go, "Oh, there's Joanna,
moving about again."
691
00:41:11,960 --> 00:41:15,000
And that's because I eat cheese.
Would I give it up? No.
692
00:41:17,960 --> 00:41:19,960
Towards the end of my first leg
of the journey,
693
00:41:19,960 --> 00:41:24,960
we travel up over the mountains
towards the Georgian border.
694
00:41:28,960 --> 00:41:31,960
We are at about 7,000,
7,500 feet.
695
00:41:31,960 --> 00:41:34,960
So the air is thin and clear
and beautiful.
696
00:41:36,000 --> 00:41:39,960
And the snow comes early here,
maybe October,
697
00:41:39,960 --> 00:41:42,960
and it stays
for as long as five months.
698
00:41:45,960 --> 00:41:50,160
But really, looking out
at this incredible landscape,
699
00:41:50,160 --> 00:41:55,960
which is dappled with clouds,
it's magic.
700
00:41:59,960 --> 00:42:02,960
Every year, families of herders
bring their flocks up
701
00:42:02,960 --> 00:42:06,960
from the Black Sea coast,
to summer on high pastures.
702
00:42:06,960 --> 00:42:10,960
From the sea to the mountains
is a journey of just over 100 miles.
703
00:42:10,960 --> 00:42:13,640
But it still takes nearly a month.
704
00:42:13,640 --> 00:42:16,960
CHILDREN YELL
Is this us?
705
00:42:17,960 --> 00:42:22,480
How lovely.
FAMILY CHATTER
706
00:42:22,480 --> 00:42:24,960
Hello, little darling.
707
00:42:24,960 --> 00:42:26,960
WOMAN SPEAKS OWN LANGUAGE
708
00:42:26,960 --> 00:42:28,000
How lovely to see you.
709
00:42:28,000 --> 00:42:30,960
Look, hello, little one.
710
00:42:30,960 --> 00:42:34,960
I don't think I was expecting
quite so many gorgeous children.
711
00:42:34,960 --> 00:42:36,000
Masses of them.
712
00:42:39,960 --> 00:42:41,960
Everyone here is ethnically Hemshin,
713
00:42:41,960 --> 00:42:45,160
a people
originally from neighbouring Armenia
714
00:42:45,160 --> 00:42:49,160
who converted from Christianity
to Islam centuries ago.
715
00:42:51,960 --> 00:42:52,960
LAUGHS
716
00:42:59,320 --> 00:43:03,960
It's a typical Silk Road story of
migration and religious conversion.
717
00:43:05,960 --> 00:43:08,480
Hello, sugars,
I'm coming to sit down here.
718
00:43:08,480 --> 00:43:11,960
Beautiful! Is that a jumper?
I love it.
719
00:43:11,960 --> 00:43:15,960
Is this going to be for you?
It's for you?
720
00:43:15,960 --> 00:43:18,320
If I stay long enough,
if you knit fast enough,
721
00:43:18,320 --> 00:43:20,960
I shall have that off you, treasure.
It's beautiful.
722
00:43:24,960 --> 00:43:26,960
Harken is the head of the family,
723
00:43:26,960 --> 00:43:28,960
and in charge of 600 sheep,
200 goats
724
00:43:28,960 --> 00:43:33,960
and just a few of these little ones.
725
00:43:33,960 --> 00:43:35,960
What month of the year
do you come up here, Harken,
726
00:43:35,960 --> 00:43:37,960
and when do you leave?
727
00:43:56,960 --> 00:43:59,960
So they are milking two at a time,
which is rather good.
728
00:43:59,960 --> 00:44:00,960
Both of them are being milked.
729
00:44:00,960 --> 00:44:02,960
LAUGHS
I think it looks brilliant.
730
00:44:02,960 --> 00:44:05,960
I think it's so difficult.
731
00:44:05,960 --> 00:44:07,960
Ooh.
732
00:44:09,960 --> 00:44:12,960
No, thank you.
ALL LAUGH
733
00:44:14,320 --> 00:44:17,960
"Do I want to try milking?"
Suddenly, no.
734
00:44:19,960 --> 00:44:23,640
Harken, how is this lifestyle
for your family?
735
00:44:23,640 --> 00:44:26,960
The children seem so happy.
Is it good up here?
736
00:44:26,960 --> 00:44:28,960
SPEAKS DIALECT
737
00:44:41,960 --> 00:44:46,960
Harken and his family
have made me feel so welcome.
738
00:44:46,960 --> 00:44:48,960
But sadly, I must go.
739
00:44:50,960 --> 00:44:53,800
It's so difficult, leaving a place
that you've fallen in love with,
740
00:44:53,800 --> 00:44:56,960
and I've fallen in love with this,
the wild hillsides of Turkey.
741
00:44:56,960 --> 00:44:58,960
But then I fell in love with Venice,
742
00:44:58,960 --> 00:45:01,480
I fell in love with Albania
as we travelled through.
743
00:45:01,480 --> 00:45:04,960
But on this road, there are still
so many more places to see.
744
00:45:04,960 --> 00:45:08,960
Contemplating my journey so far
745
00:45:08,960 --> 00:45:11,960
and dreaming about the miles
that lie ahead,
746
00:45:11,960 --> 00:45:14,960
I recall a line
from Colin Thubron's book,
747
00:45:14,960 --> 00:45:16,960
In The Shadow Of The Silk Road.
748
00:45:16,960 --> 00:45:20,960
"Yet to follow the Silk Road
is to follow a ghost.
749
00:45:20,960 --> 00:45:25,960
"It flows through the heart of Asia,
but it has officially vanished,
750
00:45:25,960 --> 00:45:28,960
"leaving behind it
the pattern of its restlessness,
751
00:45:28,960 --> 00:45:31,960
"counterfeit borders,
unmapped peoples.
752
00:45:31,960 --> 00:45:35,640
"The road forks and wanders
wherever you are.
753
00:45:35,640 --> 00:45:40,960
"It is not a single way, but many,
a web of choices."
754
00:45:40,960 --> 00:45:43,960
Next week, the road will take me
over the border
755
00:45:43,960 --> 00:45:45,960
into stunning Georgia...
756
00:45:45,960 --> 00:45:49,480
Luckily, I'm not driving us back
through the river.
757
00:45:49,480 --> 00:45:51,960
..a country steeped in
Silk Road history.
758
00:45:51,960 --> 00:45:54,960
Just extraordinary.
759
00:45:54,960 --> 00:45:57,800
I'll cross the majestic
Caucasus mountains...
760
00:45:57,800 --> 00:46:00,640
This is so beautiful.
761
00:46:00,640 --> 00:46:02,960
..and experience the fusion
of ancient and modern
762
00:46:02,960 --> 00:46:04,960
in booming Azerbaijan.
763
00:46:04,960 --> 00:46:06,960
Look at this!
764
00:46:08,960 --> 00:46:10,960
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