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Back in 2015...
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Oh! Look at that!
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...an intrepid British couple...
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Turn, turn-turn-turn!
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Wow!
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...Dick and Angel Strawbridge, bought
a neglected 45-room French chateau.
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200-plus pages of reasons NOT
to buy a house.
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It was a huge undertaking.
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Right, we're going in.
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It's so incredibly important
to bring it back to life.
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But, having spent so much time
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creating this extraordinary family
home...
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00:00:38,800 --> 00:00:41,760
I just don't think it's ever looked
this good.
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Service!
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00:00:43,160 --> 00:00:45,840
...and running
a wedding and events business...
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...they haven't had many chances
to explore France.
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But now, with their chateau
almost complete...
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Honestly, I can't... You're happy,
that's good. It's exactly right.
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00:01:00,320 --> 00:01:02,920
...Dick and Angel are hitting
the road...
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00:01:02,920 --> 00:01:05,280
It does feel like
an adventure, darling girl.
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...to explore their adopted home
of France...
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That is spectacular!
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Oh, thank you.
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Oh! You must be French. Of course!
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...uncovering its wonders.
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Somebody's made a man-made mountain
of salt.
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It's phenomenal.
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Flamingos. In France.
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Ah! This is magic.
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...and getting off
the beaten track...
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I promised you adventure! Ha-ha-ha!
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...in their 1950s 4CV.
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Come on, my wee beauty!
Come on, little baby!
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On this part of their trip,
they're heading to Provence
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and its capital, Marseille.
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I'm going to lose my hat up here!
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It's a city defined by its access
to the sea.
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I had my first little boat
when I was nine.
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For Angel, it's the first time!
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Whoa!
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But, on this trip, they
want to explore its secrets...
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It's a wardrobe!
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Ange!
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...discover its surprises...
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I love it.
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...and hidden history.
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This is 1860s Marseille.
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Oh, babe! This is your heaven!
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{\an8}It's stunning up here.
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Don't go too close to the edges,
baby. I won't, darling girl.
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No, but I'm on this side.
52
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Well, if we go over
the edge, we're both going over.
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Only when you get to the little
roads
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do you actually see the countryside
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and this little road... Yeah.
...this car was meant for it.
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00:02:45,520 --> 00:02:47,440
It does feel like an adventure,
doesn't it?
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Provence is famed
for its beautiful landscapes,
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picturesque villages,
and stunning coastline.
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But, all too often,
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00:02:59,160 --> 00:03:01,920
travellers overlook Provence's
capital city...
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00:03:03,680 --> 00:03:05,000
...Marseille.
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00:03:07,960 --> 00:03:09,960
A bustling metropolis,
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this port city is unlike any other
part of France.
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00:03:17,360 --> 00:03:19,920
Wow! I love all
the old, rickety buildings,
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with the shutters and the colours.
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And the best way to take it all in
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is from the city's highest point...
68
00:03:29,000 --> 00:03:31,400
...the Basilica of Notre-Dame
de la Garde.
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BELLS RING
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I'm going to lose my hat up here.
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00:03:41,080 --> 00:03:42,840
You know, after Paris,
this is the big one.
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This is the second biggest city
in France.
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There's not many cities that you can
actually come this high
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and see, like, a panoramic view,
it's quite special. I agree.
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00:03:51,320 --> 00:03:54,040
We have got mosques over in
that direction,
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00:03:54,040 --> 00:03:55,400
we've got a synagogue over there,
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this is a real melting pot.
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And, when we look around the city,
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we're going to see all these
different cultures coming together.
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00:04:02,760 --> 00:04:04,440
Remember before we had children,
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00:04:04,440 --> 00:04:06,520
when we used to just go away
for a few days
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00:04:06,520 --> 00:04:09,920
to a different city,
and just sit and grab a coffee
83
00:04:09,920 --> 00:04:11,800
and just sort of, like,
watch the world go by?
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Nah, my memory's not that good.
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00:04:14,160 --> 00:04:16,720
Come on, let's go and do it.
Let's go and do it.
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00:04:20,960 --> 00:04:23,720
Situated on France's south coast,
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00:04:23,720 --> 00:04:26,960
Marseille's port has access
to the Mediterranean,
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Africa and the Middle East.
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The city became a trading hub
for seafaring merchants
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00:04:40,920 --> 00:04:44,000
and Marseille grew rapidly
in the 1800s.
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00:04:57,960 --> 00:05:01,200
And the area of Noailles,
near the city's old port,
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00:05:01,200 --> 00:05:05,360
bustles with traders and crafts of
this vibrant port city.
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00:05:07,760 --> 00:05:11,400
It's really Tunisian.
It's a souk. It feels like a souk.
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This is amazing!
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This market is open six days a week
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00:05:23,040 --> 00:05:27,480
and its colourful stalls offer
produce from all over the world.
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ANGEL LAUGHS
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What a fusion of lovely stuff!
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It's... Ahhh! Look, look, look,
look!
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Spices by weight.
101
00:05:40,440 --> 00:05:41,640
I know you don't do geography,
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but work with me for a second.
Yeah, look, here we go,
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Maroc, Morocco. Yeah. OK?
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Madagascar for the peppers, yeah?
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Lebanon for the za'atar.
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I used to make that dish,
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with the... Remember? ..all the
green beans... All the beans.
108
00:05:54,760 --> 00:05:57,640
...and the fish, and cream
and za'atar.
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00:05:57,640 --> 00:05:59,120
Think about the geography
of this, yeah?
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00:05:59,120 --> 00:06:01,280
Yeah. Where we are. If you go to
the east,
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00:06:01,280 --> 00:06:03,360
Eastern Mediterranean,
that's where Lebanon is.
112
00:06:03,360 --> 00:06:05,440
If you go to the west and out,
the side of Africa,
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that's where Morocco is.
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We've even gone down
to the bottom of Africa there
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for these things from Madagascar.
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This is all of these different
places coming together.
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That's Marseille.
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That is the melting pot, isn't it?
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This shop is run by Gigi.
120
00:06:20,520 --> 00:06:23,760
Her father emigrated
to Marseille in the 1970s
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00:06:23,760 --> 00:06:27,880
and the family have managed
this store for the last 40 years.
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Is it possible to have some spices,
please? A little bag of each?
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00:06:31,120 --> 00:06:32,320
Yes.
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00:06:33,720 --> 00:06:38,640
In the 1870s, spices poured
through Marseille's port.
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00:06:38,640 --> 00:06:40,840
The opening of the Suez Canal meant
that trade with
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00:06:40,840 --> 00:06:43,960
the Middle East
and southern Africa boomed.
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00:06:43,960 --> 00:06:47,680
It's making me hungry. Parfait!
Good, uh? It's very good.
128
00:06:47,680 --> 00:06:51,960
And the flavours and tastes of
France changed forever.
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00:06:51,960 --> 00:06:55,000
And the tahini? And the tahini. OK.
Falafel.
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00:06:55,000 --> 00:06:56,240
Falafel. Falafel, OK.
131
00:06:57,800 --> 00:07:00,320
Merci beaucoup. Thank you very
much. You're welcome. thank you.
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00:07:00,320 --> 00:07:03,920
Alors, maintenant on boit du the...
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00:07:03,920 --> 00:07:06,400
We're going to drink tea.
...por la bienvenue.
134
00:07:06,400 --> 00:07:09,200
We're getting offered tea to say...
To welcome us as clients.
135
00:07:09,200 --> 00:07:11,040
That'd be wonderful. Thank you!
136
00:07:12,400 --> 00:07:15,880
The North African of welcoming
the guest with mint tea...
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00:07:16,880 --> 00:07:19,440
Ohhh! Yes!
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...is thought to be rooted
in Islamic etiquette.
139
00:07:23,800 --> 00:07:25,520
Thank you so, so much.
140
00:07:26,560 --> 00:07:28,160
Merci. Qu'est-ce qu'on dit?
141
00:07:28,160 --> 00:07:30,400
Very kind. Chin-chin. Chin-chin!
Chin-chin!
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00:07:30,400 --> 00:07:31,920
Chin-chin! Chin-chin!
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00:07:31,920 --> 00:07:33,360
Merci a vous. Thank you. Merci.
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Mm!
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That's good.
146
00:07:39,240 --> 00:07:41,840
That is very, very, very good.
Do you know what?
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I just had a moment where
I completely forgot where we was.
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I actually feel like
I'm... we're in Marrakech.
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Firmly back on the streets
of Marseille,
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00:07:54,400 --> 00:07:57,040
just around the corner
from the market stalls of Noailles,
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there's one particular shop that
dates back to the city's heyday.
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Did you see the sign? 1827. Come on.
153
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It's a Marseille institution
which has long been
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on Dick and Angel's bucket list.
155
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Ah, babe! This is your heaven!
156
00:08:13,720 --> 00:08:17,520
There is so, so, so much
to see here!
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I'm not committing to anything
until we've seen everything.
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La Maison Empereur,
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France's oldest hardware store,
has been run by the same family
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for seven generations
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and it's rammed with quirky items
from France's past,
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both hardware and homeware.
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00:08:36,240 --> 00:08:37,640
Oh, that's beautiful!
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It's a tiny stockpot. Gosh!
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All our stockpots are huge.
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They're this sort of size, yeah?
Yeah.
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00:08:44,320 --> 00:08:46,560
I think a little one like that would
be great for the family kitchen.
168
00:08:46,560 --> 00:08:49,600
I love the proportions of it,
I love the shape of it.
169
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Oh, it's beautiful!
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00:08:50,920 --> 00:08:56,080
I would be very surprised
if we left Marseille without that.
171
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Me, too.
I'm just saying. I'm just saying.
172
00:09:01,960 --> 00:09:03,320
Remember getting one of those?
173
00:09:03,320 --> 00:09:07,440
Yes. They're really, really handy
and a little bit dangerous.
174
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That's cork.
They harvest it off the trees.
175
00:09:10,640 --> 00:09:13,800
How many bottles of wine have
you opened in your time?
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I've never really, honestly, thought
where a cork comes from.
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00:09:17,120 --> 00:09:19,360
The bottom line is... Mm.
...we don't need one.
178
00:09:19,360 --> 00:09:21,400
But the bottom... We don't need one,
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00:09:21,400 --> 00:09:25,000
but you now get to have a look.
OK, that's cork for you. Come on.
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We don't need one of those,
that's for sure.
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Unsurprisingly, the shop is full of
the city's most historic product.
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00:09:34,160 --> 00:09:36,800
It's like a candy store of soap.
183
00:09:38,320 --> 00:09:40,440
Oh, just smell it! It... Ahh!
184
00:09:40,440 --> 00:09:43,280
The world-famous
Savon de Marseille was once
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the city's biggest industry.
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00:09:46,680 --> 00:09:49,120
I want to eat it.
These look like marshmallows.
187
00:09:50,400 --> 00:09:52,080
Right, you're going to have
to take me out of here
188
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because everywhere I look there is
something that we don't need.
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We're quite fortunate, actually.
You don't have to rush.
190
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I think, probably about there
191
00:10:00,480 --> 00:10:03,080
and sort of two floors up is
where we're staying.
192
00:10:03,080 --> 00:10:05,200
We're staying in...? What?
193
00:10:05,200 --> 00:10:06,680
We're staying in here tonight?
194
00:10:06,680 --> 00:10:07,760
We're staying here.
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00:10:07,760 --> 00:10:09,000
Is there a bedroom,
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00:10:09,000 --> 00:10:13,160
or are we actually staying in a
hardware store? Come with me.
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00:10:14,640 --> 00:10:16,480
Hidden above the shop is
198
00:10:16,480 --> 00:10:20,160
a very special apartment available
to guests.
199
00:10:23,320 --> 00:10:26,240
I would carry you over
the threshold but it's two flights.
200
00:10:26,240 --> 00:10:28,000
It's quite dark.
201
00:10:28,000 --> 00:10:30,200
It's very dark.
202
00:10:30,200 --> 00:10:31,600
Oh, look!
203
00:10:35,760 --> 00:10:36,800
Careful.
204
00:10:38,520 --> 00:10:40,880
Dick could've picked from
the many modern hotels around
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00:10:40,880 --> 00:10:43,560
the city's old port.
206
00:10:43,560 --> 00:10:44,800
Oh! The lights have gone.
207
00:10:44,800 --> 00:10:45,920
THEY LAUGH
208
00:10:45,920 --> 00:10:49,600
Whoops-a-daisy! Don't fall down
the stairs, babes.
209
00:10:49,600 --> 00:10:53,080
Ohhhh! Hey! Well done! Cor blimey!
210
00:10:53,080 --> 00:10:57,240
But this place has to be seen
to be believed.
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00:10:57,240 --> 00:10:58,440
ANGEL GASPS
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00:11:00,240 --> 00:11:03,800
This is 1860s Marseille.
213
00:11:05,120 --> 00:11:06,600
It's incredible!
214
00:11:07,760 --> 00:11:09,840
Oh, my gosh! You're joking.
215
00:11:11,240 --> 00:11:12,640
That's hilarious.
216
00:11:16,200 --> 00:11:18,560
That reminds me of the sort of
shirts we had to wear
217
00:11:18,560 --> 00:11:20,320
when I joined the army in the '70s.
218
00:11:20,320 --> 00:11:21,560
This is incredible.
219
00:11:21,560 --> 00:11:23,040
Oh! Look at this.
220
00:11:24,720 --> 00:11:26,080
Oh, that is beautiful.
221
00:11:27,400 --> 00:11:32,000
This chambre d'hote is lovingly
named the One Night.
222
00:11:32,000 --> 00:11:33,480
Is there a bathroom? It's huge.
223
00:11:34,920 --> 00:11:35,960
Ah!
224
00:11:35,960 --> 00:11:37,640
Ha!
225
00:11:37,640 --> 00:11:41,480
And even one night might be
a stretch with this bathroom.
226
00:11:41,480 --> 00:11:42,760
I can't fit in that!
227
00:11:42,760 --> 00:11:44,160
Oh, my gosh! I love it!
228
00:11:45,160 --> 00:11:46,440
Ah!
229
00:11:46,440 --> 00:11:48,240
You're all right,
Thomas Crapper's been here
230
00:11:48,240 --> 00:11:50,200
and given you a porcelain potty
as well.
231
00:11:50,200 --> 00:11:53,200
How's that for
an authentic 1860s toilet?
232
00:11:53,200 --> 00:11:59,040
Everything is so old
but so beautiful,
233
00:11:59,040 --> 00:12:02,720
just that correct amount
of dilapidated.
234
00:12:02,720 --> 00:12:05,160
But the 21st-century visitor can
235
00:12:05,160 --> 00:12:08,280
still expect
their creature comforts.
236
00:12:08,280 --> 00:12:10,680
Ah! Hey! Ha-ha-hah!
237
00:12:10,680 --> 00:12:13,720
That is a lovely, comfy bed.
238
00:12:16,080 --> 00:12:17,720
A nice little veranda.
239
00:12:17,720 --> 00:12:19,760
This place is huge.
240
00:12:19,760 --> 00:12:23,440
The store's been in the family
for seven generations
241
00:12:23,440 --> 00:12:25,480
and I reckon what's happened,
the last generation have gone
242
00:12:25,480 --> 00:12:28,240
and found all the old bits of
furniture leftover from the family,
243
00:12:28,240 --> 00:12:29,280
put it in here and said,
244
00:12:29,280 --> 00:12:32,160
"Do you know what? This is somewhere
people would like to stay."
245
00:12:32,160 --> 00:12:33,760
Such a find.
246
00:12:33,760 --> 00:12:35,040
Fancy a drink?
247
00:12:35,040 --> 00:12:38,160
I do. Actually,
I'm taking you somewhere now.
248
00:12:42,880 --> 00:12:46,400
As night falls, the city
is transformed...
249
00:12:48,400 --> 00:12:49,640
...as the bustling streets,
250
00:12:49,640 --> 00:12:54,440
rooftop bars,
cafes and clubs all come alive.
251
00:12:57,040 --> 00:12:59,200
This way. Follow me.
252
00:12:59,200 --> 00:13:00,400
Do you trust me?
253
00:13:00,400 --> 00:13:02,320
Really? Not particularly.
254
00:13:03,320 --> 00:13:05,080
And, tonight, Angel is on the hunt
255
00:13:05,080 --> 00:13:08,400
for one of Marseille's most
unusual bars.
256
00:13:10,560 --> 00:13:12,320
Are you sure this is right?
257
00:13:12,320 --> 00:13:13,920
Hmm. Are we getting warmer?
258
00:13:13,920 --> 00:13:16,600
Can we start this game so I've got
an idea of what's going on?
259
00:13:16,600 --> 00:13:18,120
We're getting warmer.
260
00:13:18,120 --> 00:13:20,600
THEY LAUGH
261
00:13:23,240 --> 00:13:24,480
This... Oh, no.
262
00:13:24,480 --> 00:13:25,880
It's a souvenir shop, darling.
263
00:13:30,960 --> 00:13:32,920
You are joking!
264
00:13:32,920 --> 00:13:34,520
Are you taking the mickey?
265
00:13:34,520 --> 00:13:38,480
Hidden from view is one of
the city's best kept secrets.
266
00:13:38,480 --> 00:13:40,960
Wow! What are you doing, girl?
What are you doing?
267
00:13:40,960 --> 00:13:43,400
ANGEL LAUGHS
Are you serious?
268
00:13:43,400 --> 00:13:45,240
It's a... It's a wardrobe!
269
00:13:45,240 --> 00:13:46,360
Come in!
270
00:13:46,360 --> 00:13:48,080
Come into my wardrobe. What?
271
00:13:48,080 --> 00:13:49,520
Angela?
272
00:13:49,520 --> 00:13:51,320
Ange!
273
00:13:51,320 --> 00:13:52,560
Come in.
274
00:13:58,680 --> 00:14:02,000
On their quest to discover
the secrets of Marseille...
275
00:14:03,960 --> 00:14:06,440
...Angel has taken Dick beyond
276
00:14:06,440 --> 00:14:09,360
the wardrobe doors to a secret bar.
277
00:14:12,160 --> 00:14:17,440
Hiya! Bonsoir! Hi! Hello! Welcome,
guys. Nice to see you. Enchantee.
278
00:14:17,440 --> 00:14:21,280
Gosh! I've got to steal that idea!
That was absolutely magical.
279
00:14:21,280 --> 00:14:23,840
That's going to cause me work.
Wow! This is amazing!
280
00:14:23,840 --> 00:14:25,080
I thought she was lost.
281
00:14:25,080 --> 00:14:28,120
You were looking
for Souvenirs de Marseille. Yes?
282
00:14:28,120 --> 00:14:30,320
Souvenirs? Souvenirs. Right.
283
00:14:31,440 --> 00:14:33,560
The bar is all about Prohibition.
284
00:14:33,560 --> 00:14:35,680
So, it's a speakeasy bar,
so it's a hiding bar.
285
00:14:35,680 --> 00:14:37,840
What would you say is
a local cocktail for us?
286
00:14:37,840 --> 00:14:39,960
Er, picon. We love picon.
287
00:14:39,960 --> 00:14:42,200
Picon was made in Algeria
288
00:14:42,200 --> 00:14:45,160
and after that they moved
the factory in Marseille,
289
00:14:45,160 --> 00:14:47,360
so it's been very famous in
Marseille for a while,
290
00:14:47,360 --> 00:14:48,720
so picon is strong here.
291
00:14:48,720 --> 00:14:50,880
Made with oranges.
Made with oranges.
292
00:14:50,880 --> 00:14:52,360
Full of vitamins,
very good for you.
293
00:14:52,360 --> 00:14:55,960
Exactly. My mum loves it as well,
actually, cos we've brought it home.
294
00:14:55,960 --> 00:14:58,400
Her mum loves it a bit too much. OK!
295
00:14:58,400 --> 00:15:02,280
A mixture of orange peel,
sugar and quinine,
296
00:15:02,280 --> 00:15:06,000
picon was originally created by
French soldiers stationed in Africa
297
00:15:06,000 --> 00:15:08,200
seeking a remedy for malaria.
298
00:15:08,200 --> 00:15:11,640
A good picon cocktail, it's
an old riff on the Manhattan.
299
00:15:11,640 --> 00:15:14,240
We do our own here,
so French rye whisky,
300
00:15:14,240 --> 00:15:15,480
with a little bit of picon,
301
00:15:15,480 --> 00:15:17,600
maraschino liqueur,
and a touch of vermouth.
302
00:15:21,000 --> 00:15:22,400
That's a good-sized measure.
303
00:15:24,560 --> 00:15:25,800
Nice and chilled.
304
00:15:28,800 --> 00:15:30,040
Here we go. Wow!
305
00:15:30,040 --> 00:15:32,600
That's going to be
our Brooklyn from Marseille.
306
00:15:32,600 --> 00:15:33,960
Thank you.
307
00:15:36,200 --> 00:15:37,920
Thank you. Sante! Sante!
308
00:15:41,800 --> 00:15:43,360
Ooooh, I'm happy!
309
00:15:43,360 --> 00:15:45,720
It's very strong. I'm a bit worried.
310
00:15:45,720 --> 00:15:46,760
Yes.
311
00:15:46,760 --> 00:15:49,560
I can carry my wife
out of any wardrobe you put her in.
312
00:15:51,840 --> 00:15:55,640
After one or two more cocktails.
313
00:15:57,040 --> 00:16:01,320
I have absolutely no idea
how we're going to get home.
314
00:16:01,320 --> 00:16:03,160
Yeah.
315
00:16:03,160 --> 00:16:05,160
It's just out the wardrobe...
316
00:16:05,160 --> 00:16:07,080
...through-through the pants.
317
00:16:20,960 --> 00:16:22,280
Despite the late night,
318
00:16:22,280 --> 00:16:25,480
an early morning visit to
Marseille's celebrated
319
00:16:25,480 --> 00:16:27,760
daily fish market can't be missed.
320
00:16:30,800 --> 00:16:33,600
I've never been to such a big port.
321
00:16:33,600 --> 00:16:35,440
It has the feel of beauty,
322
00:16:35,440 --> 00:16:38,280
but it's got the feel
of working as well.
323
00:16:40,720 --> 00:16:44,280
A visit here is also a chance
to follow in the footsteps
324
00:16:44,280 --> 00:16:46,720
of one of Dick and Angel's favourite
chefs,
325
00:16:46,720 --> 00:16:48,280
Julia Child,
326
00:16:48,280 --> 00:16:50,760
who lived in Marseille in the 1950s
327
00:16:50,760 --> 00:16:53,680
and regularly bought fish
from this very market.
328
00:16:55,080 --> 00:16:56,240
Fancy one of those?
329
00:16:56,240 --> 00:16:57,640
No!
330
00:16:57,640 --> 00:17:00,920
I just love the fact that people
have been coming in here,
331
00:17:00,920 --> 00:17:04,120
like this, this is millennium old.
332
00:17:11,880 --> 00:17:14,120
Bonjour! Bonjour, madame.
333
00:17:14,120 --> 00:17:15,600
Ah, they're tiny!
334
00:17:15,600 --> 00:17:16,920
C'est quoi?
335
00:17:16,920 --> 00:17:18,520
Le fond de Bouillabaisse.
336
00:17:18,520 --> 00:17:19,960
Oh. The fond... Wow!
337
00:17:19,960 --> 00:17:23,440
Le fond de Bouillabaisse
ou le fruit normal.
338
00:17:23,440 --> 00:17:26,680
The Bouillabaisse is one
of France's most famous dishes,
339
00:17:26,680 --> 00:17:28,960
thought to have originated
right here.
340
00:17:30,280 --> 00:17:32,760
But what was once a humble
fisherman's soup
341
00:17:32,760 --> 00:17:36,200
of leftover unsold fish is now
a fashionable dish,
342
00:17:36,200 --> 00:17:38,600
which tourists pay high prices for.
343
00:17:40,320 --> 00:17:42,320
But Dick and Angel want to go back
to its roots
344
00:17:42,320 --> 00:17:45,320
and cook their own cheaper
Bouillabaisse.
345
00:17:47,320 --> 00:17:50,360
HE ORDERS IN FRENCH
346
00:17:50,360 --> 00:17:52,600
Local chef Christian
347
00:17:52,600 --> 00:17:55,280
is going to show them how
to navigate the fish market.
348
00:17:57,560 --> 00:18:00,480
Good to see you, matey.
Good to see you! How are you?
349
00:18:00,480 --> 00:18:02,240
How's the market today?
What do you reckon?
350
00:18:02,240 --> 00:18:03,760
It's a matter of checking, you know?
351
00:18:03,760 --> 00:18:07,880
You have to go round and each one
has different fish to offer.
352
00:18:07,880 --> 00:18:11,280
How much is a bowl of Bouillabaisse
in Marseille, in a restaurant?
353
00:18:11,280 --> 00:18:12,800
Oh, it's around 70 euros.
354
00:18:12,800 --> 00:18:14,520
OHHH! Noooo!
355
00:18:14,520 --> 00:18:16,720
Arret! No!
356
00:18:16,720 --> 00:18:21,840
Yes. They upscale the Bouillabaisse
into something very bourgeois.
357
00:18:21,840 --> 00:18:23,240
They made it fashionable.
358
00:18:23,240 --> 00:18:25,480
So you can have the bourgeois
Bouillabaisse
359
00:18:25,480 --> 00:18:28,600
and you can have the really cheap
fisherman's Bouillabaisse.
360
00:18:29,920 --> 00:18:33,160
Christian is going to show Dick and
Angel how he shops
361
00:18:33,160 --> 00:18:36,280
for a traditional bouillabaisse,
by using whatever is affordable
362
00:18:36,280 --> 00:18:39,040
and abundant here, in the market,
363
00:18:39,040 --> 00:18:42,000
a much more sustainable way
to cook.
364
00:18:44,040 --> 00:18:45,040
The soup to begin with.
365
00:18:45,040 --> 00:18:47,840
Yeah, you have to get
a bit of rockfish -
366
00:18:47,840 --> 00:18:49,600
that's a very dangerous fish.
367
00:18:49,600 --> 00:18:53,240
So, that's poisonous? Yeah, that's
poisonous. Spikes. Right, OK.
368
00:18:53,240 --> 00:18:55,360
It's got poison. Are they tasty?
369
00:18:55,360 --> 00:18:57,600
Yeah. That's why you need them.
370
00:18:57,600 --> 00:19:00,720
In Britain, we don't tend
to buy ugly fish.
371
00:19:00,720 --> 00:19:02,000
I know.
372
00:19:02,000 --> 00:19:04,600
Monkfish. Monkfish comes as tails,
373
00:19:04,600 --> 00:19:07,000
and, when you see
the monkfish head, it's grrgh!
374
00:19:08,440 --> 00:19:11,480
The monkfish head is great
for the soup.
375
00:19:11,480 --> 00:19:12,680
Oh, right. Oh, is it?
376
00:19:12,680 --> 00:19:14,400
Yeah. Cos they are leftovers.
377
00:19:14,400 --> 00:19:16,680
You have to make with something
cheap, you know, as well.
378
00:19:16,680 --> 00:19:18,920
You don't have to spend
so much money.
379
00:19:18,920 --> 00:19:20,680
These aren't popular. Not at all.
380
00:19:20,680 --> 00:19:23,840
And these are the ones we want
people to have more of.
381
00:19:23,840 --> 00:19:25,240
That's when you start
382
00:19:25,240 --> 00:19:28,480
to discover fish that you never
used before.
383
00:19:28,480 --> 00:19:31,280
For their own sustainable low-cost
Bouillabaisse,
384
00:19:31,280 --> 00:19:32,680
Dick and Angel are buying
385
00:19:32,680 --> 00:19:37,240
a selection of rockfish,
gurnard and scorpion fish.
386
00:19:37,240 --> 00:19:38,760
Merci. Merci, madame.
387
00:19:41,360 --> 00:19:42,960
Ah, these are beautiful,
aren't they?
388
00:19:42,960 --> 00:19:48,280
STALL HOLDER SPEAKS FRENCH
389
00:19:48,280 --> 00:19:50,480
These are shells for decoration.
Oh, they're shells!
390
00:19:50,480 --> 00:19:53,960
Yeah, they're shells. I didn't know.
Well, let's buy some for Dorothy.
391
00:19:53,960 --> 00:19:57,840
It's a lucky charm. You put it in
your pocket and money will grow.
392
00:19:57,840 --> 00:19:59,040
Oh, my gosh!
393
00:19:59,040 --> 00:20:02,440
Pardon? That's very important.
C'est tres important. We need some.
394
00:20:02,440 --> 00:20:04,600
Allez, nana.
SHE REPLIES IN FRENCH
395
00:20:04,600 --> 00:20:05,960
Christian, do you call her nana?
396
00:20:07,560 --> 00:20:10,640
Oh, gosh! I feel...
I just think that's beautiful.
397
00:20:10,640 --> 00:20:13,440
She started working at
the port at the age of ten,
398
00:20:13,440 --> 00:20:17,080
so she knows everything.
She has... If you want a recipe,
399
00:20:17,080 --> 00:20:19,720
you have to ask Nana.
People think she is...
400
00:20:19,720 --> 00:20:22,200
...like a folkloric person,
401
00:20:22,200 --> 00:20:24,360
but she has so much knowledge
to share.
402
00:20:26,920 --> 00:20:30,240
The fish market has
a host of colourful characters
403
00:20:30,240 --> 00:20:34,920
and none more so than father
and son duo Sebastien and Fabio.
404
00:20:36,080 --> 00:20:38,120
I've never, ever seen this in
my lifetime,
405
00:20:38,120 --> 00:20:40,040
a little boy helping out.
406
00:20:40,040 --> 00:20:43,120
Just as Dick and Angel thought
they were all shopped up,
407
00:20:43,120 --> 00:20:47,280
there's one last tempting ingredient
which they can't pass by -
408
00:20:47,280 --> 00:20:49,080
Moray eel.
409
00:20:49,080 --> 00:20:52,240
Oh, yeah, just so... All right,
gutting it.
410
00:20:54,840 --> 00:20:56,200
Chhh! Yeah.
411
00:20:57,440 --> 00:21:01,280
That's wonderful and kind of a bit
slimy in equal measures.
412
00:21:04,720 --> 00:21:06,400
Amazing! Merci!
413
00:21:06,400 --> 00:21:11,400
Merci, Sebastien. Fabio, enchantee.
Bon chance.
414
00:21:11,400 --> 00:21:13,240
Merci. Au revoir.
415
00:21:20,720 --> 00:21:23,320
With a basket full
of Mediterranean produce,
416
00:21:23,320 --> 00:21:26,040
Dick's determined that
Angel will have her first taste
417
00:21:26,040 --> 00:21:29,680
of Bouillabaisse
in a very traditional location.
418
00:21:31,920 --> 00:21:34,320
La Flaneuse de Marseille.
419
00:21:34,320 --> 00:21:35,600
Wow!
420
00:21:35,600 --> 00:21:39,600
A beautiful replica of
a traditional tartane.
421
00:21:39,600 --> 00:21:40,960
300 years ago,
422
00:21:40,960 --> 00:21:43,280
similar small ships would've been
common,
423
00:21:43,280 --> 00:21:46,160
fishing and trading
throughout the Mediterranean.
424
00:21:46,160 --> 00:21:48,720
Bonjour! Bruno!
425
00:21:48,720 --> 00:21:52,840
Hey! Hello. Permission to come on
board? Welcome aboard!
426
00:21:52,840 --> 00:21:54,960
OK. Oh, me first? OK. Thank you.
427
00:21:54,960 --> 00:21:56,160
Go. Ah, merci.
428
00:21:56,160 --> 00:21:58,280
Oh-ho-ho!
429
00:21:58,280 --> 00:22:00,040
C'est la premiere fois pour Angela.
430
00:22:00,040 --> 00:22:02,240
Ah, first time in a boat. Um...
431
00:22:02,240 --> 00:22:05,280
In a sailing boat?
Yes. On a sailing boat, yes.
432
00:22:05,280 --> 00:22:06,880
Are we going to sail? Yes.
433
00:22:06,880 --> 00:22:09,000
You're in charge.
I'll take that down.
434
00:22:09,000 --> 00:22:12,200
I do this one. You get ready.
Take us away. Yes.
435
00:22:12,200 --> 00:22:14,600
Anyone can charter La Flaneuse
436
00:22:14,600 --> 00:22:18,880
and it's one of the last sailable
tartanes left in France.
437
00:22:19,880 --> 00:22:21,680
BRUNO INSTRUCTS IN FRENCH
438
00:22:21,680 --> 00:22:22,880
Pull, Angela! Pull!
439
00:22:22,880 --> 00:22:25,240
Pull, pull, pull, pull, pull!
440
00:22:25,240 --> 00:22:27,000
On vais!
441
00:22:27,000 --> 00:22:31,720
Bruno has extensive experience of
sailing on this stretch of water.
442
00:22:31,720 --> 00:22:33,480
You turn on the right.
443
00:22:33,480 --> 00:22:36,320
For turning on the right,
you push this one. OK.
444
00:22:36,320 --> 00:22:37,640
Allez! More!
445
00:22:37,640 --> 00:22:39,200
Two hands is necessary.
446
00:22:39,200 --> 00:22:40,600
Right. Very good.
447
00:22:42,160 --> 00:22:44,720
He does not know I don't know
my left from my right.
448
00:22:48,920 --> 00:22:51,400
I had my first little boat when
I was nine.
449
00:22:51,400 --> 00:22:53,640
For Angela, it's the first time!
450
00:22:58,680 --> 00:23:00,440
Bruno? Ca va?
451
00:23:00,440 --> 00:23:02,280
OK, tout droit. Droit.
452
00:23:02,280 --> 00:23:05,400
I'll come straightforward now,
yeah? Like this. OK.
453
00:23:05,400 --> 00:23:07,520
Ah, my girl's a captain!
454
00:23:11,600 --> 00:23:14,200
We're on a tartane sailing
out of Marseille.
455
00:23:15,160 --> 00:23:18,320
350 years ago, 400 years ago,
they're doing this. Brilliant.
456
00:23:22,360 --> 00:23:24,760
Are we ready? Allez! Go!
457
00:23:24,760 --> 00:23:26,520
INDISTINCT
458
00:23:26,520 --> 00:23:28,480
OK. Up and down.
459
00:23:28,480 --> 00:23:31,240
BRUNO INSTRUCTS IN FRENCH
460
00:23:33,960 --> 00:23:37,040
As Angel steers clear of port,
it's up to Bruno,
461
00:23:37,040 --> 00:23:40,200
Dick and the crew to hoist
the mainsail.
462
00:23:44,080 --> 00:23:45,160
Whoa!
463
00:23:45,160 --> 00:23:48,840
BRUNO INSTRUCTS IN FRENCH
464
00:23:48,840 --> 00:23:51,400
Two. Come to me.
465
00:23:51,400 --> 00:23:53,160
The big one!
466
00:23:53,160 --> 00:23:54,440
Ah! Super!
467
00:23:59,680 --> 00:24:01,000
We're getting the views, kid.
468
00:24:01,000 --> 00:24:02,920
That's Chateau d'If from the sea.
469
00:24:02,920 --> 00:24:05,640
You have no idea how excited
I am about that.
470
00:24:08,040 --> 00:24:11,560
Visitors can take
a tour of this notorious prison,
471
00:24:11,560 --> 00:24:16,560
made famous by the Alexandre Dumas
novel The Count of Monte Cristo.
472
00:24:19,240 --> 00:24:23,440
In the novel, the main character
made a daring escape
473
00:24:23,440 --> 00:24:25,600
in a tartane like this one.
474
00:24:31,760 --> 00:24:35,240
You knew that I had sailed
quite a lot. Yes.
475
00:24:35,240 --> 00:24:37,520
{\an8}And I told you it was quite
special, being on
476
00:24:37,520 --> 00:24:38,840
{\an8}a big old wooden boat. Yes.
477
00:24:38,840 --> 00:24:40,880
{\an8}I've absolutely loved it.
478
00:24:40,880 --> 00:24:43,400
I'm not a sailor. I'm not... Yet.
479
00:24:43,400 --> 00:24:47,240
No, I'm not. But I've really,
really enjoyed myself.
480
00:24:56,280 --> 00:24:57,840
Bonjour, ca va?
481
00:25:04,040 --> 00:25:07,880
In a journey that might've been made
hundreds of years ago,
482
00:25:07,880 --> 00:25:09,960
Dick and Angel are sailing
their fresh fish
483
00:25:09,960 --> 00:25:11,760
from the market of Marseille
484
00:25:11,760 --> 00:25:14,960
some three miles to
the Frioul islands...
485
00:25:16,840 --> 00:25:19,160
...and are going to reward
Bruno and his crew
486
00:25:19,160 --> 00:25:22,400
with a freshly cooked Bouillabaisse.
487
00:25:22,400 --> 00:25:25,560
I first heard of it,
going back a long time ago,
488
00:25:25,560 --> 00:25:28,120
Julia Child's book, her book
from the '50s. Yes, yes.
489
00:25:28,120 --> 00:25:30,000
She was serving in Marseille.
490
00:25:30,000 --> 00:25:32,000
Well, her husband
was at the embassy.
491
00:25:32,000 --> 00:25:34,760
So that's the first time I heard
of it. We're going rustic.
492
00:25:34,760 --> 00:25:36,640
I guessed that.
That's what you do, baby.
493
00:25:36,640 --> 00:25:37,960
Ca marche?
494
00:25:37,960 --> 00:25:40,640
Ca marche.
Ca marche - that works for me.
495
00:25:40,640 --> 00:25:43,040
Ca marche. I'm starving.
496
00:25:43,040 --> 00:25:47,880
Marseille's history and culture are
inextricably linked to the sea,
497
00:25:47,880 --> 00:25:50,160
and Dick has found
the perfect setting
498
00:25:50,160 --> 00:25:54,320
to prepare the city's
most famous dish.
499
00:25:54,320 --> 00:25:56,520
Oh, that looks so juicy
and delicious.
500
00:25:56,520 --> 00:25:59,040
OK, throw it in.
501
00:25:59,040 --> 00:26:03,040
First things first -
a stock to cook the larger fish in.
502
00:26:03,040 --> 00:26:04,800
Aromatics. Aromatics.
503
00:26:04,800 --> 00:26:06,920
Aromatics of the province,
bay and thyme. Mm-hm.
504
00:26:06,920 --> 00:26:10,360
Leeks, onion, fennel, tomatoes,
505
00:26:10,360 --> 00:26:12,920
and a bouquet of fresh
herbes de Provence,
506
00:26:12,920 --> 00:26:15,040
all cooked in plenty
of local olive oil.
507
00:26:15,040 --> 00:26:17,560
Oh, man, that smells so good.
508
00:26:17,560 --> 00:26:19,640
I'm going to do something
I've never done before,
509
00:26:19,640 --> 00:26:21,880
I'm going to start throwing
whole fish in here. Do it.
510
00:26:23,120 --> 00:26:24,520
There you go.
511
00:26:24,520 --> 00:26:27,040
These little ones are really cheap.
512
00:26:27,040 --> 00:26:29,240
They're about three euros a kilo.
That's incredible, isn't it?
513
00:26:29,240 --> 00:26:31,440
They're going to give us all
the flavour. Yeah.
514
00:26:31,440 --> 00:26:36,080
And the ugly ones, with the spikes
on them, the poisonous ones.
515
00:26:36,080 --> 00:26:39,160
Thoroughly cooking and then
straining the stock carefully
516
00:26:39,160 --> 00:26:41,640
will ensure that the poison in the
spines
517
00:26:41,640 --> 00:26:44,360
doesn't find its way into
the final dish.
518
00:26:44,360 --> 00:26:47,280
I've seen these things when
I've been snorkelling before.
519
00:26:47,280 --> 00:26:49,160
I never thought I'd just be
throwing them in a pot.
520
00:26:49,160 --> 00:26:50,320
Are you happy?
521
00:26:50,320 --> 00:26:53,600
I'm very happy.
I'm very happy.
522
00:26:53,600 --> 00:26:57,800
Adding the gurnard and the rockfish,
Dick needs to add more water.
523
00:26:57,800 --> 00:27:00,320
Here we go, hot water in.
524
00:27:00,320 --> 00:27:03,640
And bring it all up to the boil.
525
00:27:03,640 --> 00:27:08,160
You'd look at that and think,
"That's a fish stew."
526
00:27:08,160 --> 00:27:11,240
Oh, I know how
to make my husband smile.
527
00:27:13,160 --> 00:27:15,160
I had no idea what was gonna
happen next,
528
00:27:15,160 --> 00:27:17,000
but the glass of wine is lovely.
529
00:27:17,000 --> 00:27:18,480
I'm a wee bit gooey.
530
00:27:21,600 --> 00:27:23,000
Mm! That's beautiful.
531
00:27:23,000 --> 00:27:25,560
That's yummy.
I was ready for that.
532
00:27:25,560 --> 00:27:27,600
That was really nice.
533
00:27:27,600 --> 00:27:30,320
That is what I'd consider
to be multitasking.
534
00:27:30,320 --> 00:27:33,840
Leeks, fennel, and garlic. Yeah.
535
00:27:33,840 --> 00:27:35,840
All the vegetables are brought
to the boil
536
00:27:35,840 --> 00:27:38,040
in their brand-new copper pot.
537
00:27:39,560 --> 00:27:42,400
I will never make another
Bouillabaisse like this
538
00:27:42,400 --> 00:27:44,600
because this fish selection
539
00:27:44,600 --> 00:27:48,360
and what we're cooking together
is a one-off.
540
00:27:48,360 --> 00:27:50,720
With Bruno and his crew
watching hungrily,
541
00:27:50,720 --> 00:27:53,120
it's time to strain the stock.
542
00:27:53,120 --> 00:27:56,280
Are you ready?
Yep, I'm really ready. There we go.
543
00:27:57,800 --> 00:27:59,000
Add the fillets.
544
00:28:00,360 --> 00:28:04,200
Eel? Need to get that in.
Yes. Oh.
545
00:28:04,200 --> 00:28:06,200
And bring it all back to the boil.
546
00:28:09,720 --> 00:28:11,240
Do you know what? What?
547
00:28:11,240 --> 00:28:14,440
That looks like a Bouillabaisse
to me. That looks amazing.
548
00:28:18,160 --> 00:28:20,400
Oh, this...
549
00:28:20,400 --> 00:28:23,680
I'm very excited.
I'm excited and hungry.
550
00:28:23,680 --> 00:28:27,920
To finish, a slice of toasted
baguette topped with rouille,
551
00:28:27,920 --> 00:28:30,760
a garlic and roasted red
pepper paste.
552
00:28:30,760 --> 00:28:33,840
Perfect.
I'll call service on that one, kid.
553
00:28:33,840 --> 00:28:35,640
Here we are. Wow!
554
00:28:35,640 --> 00:28:39,800
Finally, it's time to serve Bruno
and his hungry crew.
555
00:28:43,840 --> 00:28:45,920
Mm! Hm, hm!
556
00:28:45,920 --> 00:28:48,480
Tres bon. Ca marche?
557
00:28:48,480 --> 00:28:50,080
Ca marche. Super.
558
00:28:50,080 --> 00:28:52,920
Oh, ho, ho!
Panicking a bit there.
559
00:28:52,920 --> 00:28:55,360
Bruno, thank you.
560
00:28:55,360 --> 00:28:58,520
Your boat is beautiful,
your country is beautiful,
561
00:28:58,520 --> 00:29:02,000
your Bouillabaisse is beautiful,
you're beautiful. Thank you.
562
00:29:02,000 --> 00:29:04,920
THEY LAUGH
563
00:29:04,920 --> 00:29:06,560
Merci, merci, merci.
564
00:29:13,880 --> 00:29:16,560
Firmly back on dry land,
565
00:29:16,560 --> 00:29:20,360
Dick and Angel are in Marseille's
old town, Le Panier,
566
00:29:20,360 --> 00:29:23,440
where the city originated in 600 BC.
567
00:29:25,120 --> 00:29:26,520
This is gorgeous.
568
00:29:27,560 --> 00:29:30,480
They celebrate people's creativity.
569
00:29:30,480 --> 00:29:31,760
Wow!
570
00:29:33,000 --> 00:29:36,080
Today, the area is famous
for its street art...
571
00:29:37,560 --> 00:29:39,040
...and vintage shops.
572
00:29:41,680 --> 00:29:43,680
You're not walking past here,
are you?
573
00:29:43,680 --> 00:29:47,120
No, I'm not.
This is right up my street.
574
00:29:47,120 --> 00:29:53,160
Angel is always on the lookout
for the unusual or the unexpected...
575
00:29:53,160 --> 00:29:55,280
Hope they've got
writing on the back. Yes!
576
00:29:55,280 --> 00:29:56,520
SHE CHUCKLES
577
00:29:56,520 --> 00:29:58,800
Just capturing that moment,
aren't you?
578
00:30:00,480 --> 00:30:03,400
...and is keen to find them
a memento of their trip.
579
00:30:06,080 --> 00:30:08,760
I'm finding too many things in here
that I like,
580
00:30:08,760 --> 00:30:13,000
but I'd like to find something
that is Marseille-y.
581
00:30:13,000 --> 00:30:14,800
Yeah, let's find something from
the area.
582
00:30:14,800 --> 00:30:17,080
Hm. And we have to fit it
in our car.
583
00:30:18,480 --> 00:30:23,080
Oh, The Ancient Roads of Marseille -
that's nice.
584
00:30:23,080 --> 00:30:25,200
I'm sure we've been down that road.
585
00:30:25,200 --> 00:30:27,560
This is fantastic,
I love it, I love it.
586
00:30:27,560 --> 00:30:30,600
We're going to definitely
have this.
587
00:30:35,240 --> 00:30:37,680
Oh, look at this.
588
00:30:37,680 --> 00:30:40,680
That's nice, Departement Du Var.
589
00:30:40,680 --> 00:30:42,720
Du Var? Yes.
590
00:30:42,720 --> 00:30:45,960
That is... east of us.
591
00:30:45,960 --> 00:30:48,000
We're about here at the minute,
in Marseille. Mm-hm.
592
00:30:48,000 --> 00:30:51,320
But... But, but, but, but,
it says here, what's that?
593
00:30:51,320 --> 00:30:52,920
The Bois de... What's that letter?
594
00:30:52,920 --> 00:30:56,200
B-O-R... La Foret de la...
595
00:30:56,200 --> 00:30:58,440
I think those are cork forests.
596
00:30:58,440 --> 00:31:01,120
Do you remember
we saw the cork in Maison...?
597
00:31:01,120 --> 00:31:02,640
INDISTINCT
Yeah.
598
00:31:02,640 --> 00:31:06,120
I think this is the map of where
the cork forests are.
599
00:31:06,120 --> 00:31:08,640
Oh, really? Oh, it's actually
quite close.
600
00:31:08,640 --> 00:31:09,800
Yeah, cos the idea...
601
00:31:09,800 --> 00:31:12,520
All right, I know Julia Childs
headed up into the,
602
00:31:12,520 --> 00:31:14,640
up into the cork forests
for a picnic.
603
00:31:14,640 --> 00:31:16,720
Yes, exactly. This is lovely.
604
00:31:16,720 --> 00:31:19,760
I'm loving this because I could
possibly map read off that.
605
00:31:21,520 --> 00:31:24,280
I love this and, actually, I'm just
picking you out a couple of, er...
606
00:31:24,280 --> 00:31:28,000
Look. Look at that.
A little... A little pastis glass
607
00:31:28,000 --> 00:31:30,280
cos I know that's your favourite.
608
00:31:30,280 --> 00:31:31,880
I think our car deserves this map.
609
00:31:31,880 --> 00:31:34,160
SHE LAUGHS
610
00:31:35,760 --> 00:31:37,800
Et merci beaucoup. Ca marche.
611
00:31:37,800 --> 00:31:40,120
Bon journee a vous. Merci.
Bonne journee, au revoir.
612
00:31:40,120 --> 00:31:42,880
Bye-bye. OK, merci. Good.
613
00:31:42,880 --> 00:31:44,920
Inspired by their purchases,
614
00:31:44,920 --> 00:31:47,280
Dick and Angel are leaving the city,
615
00:31:47,280 --> 00:31:50,960
firing up their car,
Bordeaux Rose, and heading east...
616
00:31:55,320 --> 00:31:58,320
...in search of cork forests
to picnic in
617
00:31:58,320 --> 00:32:02,240
and their newly purchased map
should lead them right to them.
618
00:32:02,240 --> 00:32:03,520
I know I've got this... OK.
619
00:32:03,520 --> 00:32:06,480
...the right way
because there's pictures on it.
620
00:32:06,480 --> 00:32:07,840
SHE LAUGHS
621
00:32:07,840 --> 00:32:10,520
You see, that doesn't bring me
any confidence whatsoever.
622
00:32:10,520 --> 00:32:12,000
HE LAUGHS
623
00:32:12,000 --> 00:32:14,040
I have actually found it,
Foret de la Mole.
624
00:32:14,040 --> 00:32:16,800
There we go. De la Mole.
So any idea which direction?
625
00:32:16,800 --> 00:32:19,880
So we're here...
Straight on,
626
00:32:19,880 --> 00:32:23,000
cos it's the only road to go.
627
00:32:26,400 --> 00:32:28,440
On the Provence coast,
628
00:32:28,440 --> 00:32:32,880
the Departement du Var
boasts vast swathes of forests.
629
00:32:40,280 --> 00:32:43,120
Many of its cork oaks have been
left to grow wild.
630
00:32:47,400 --> 00:32:49,440
But, off the beaten track,
631
00:32:49,440 --> 00:32:53,760
you can still find traditionalists
like Philip Villar.
632
00:32:56,880 --> 00:32:58,280
Enchante. Comment ca va?
633
00:32:58,280 --> 00:33:00,280
Angela. Enchantee.
Ah, thank you.
634
00:33:00,280 --> 00:33:02,440
Ah, you must be French.
Of course.
635
00:33:02,440 --> 00:33:03,960
DICK LAUGHS
636
00:33:03,960 --> 00:33:05,440
Are you harvesting?
637
00:33:05,440 --> 00:33:08,640
Yeah, this is the time of
the year when we harvest the cork.
638
00:33:08,640 --> 00:33:11,160
This bark took ten years to grow.
639
00:33:11,160 --> 00:33:12,720
Underneath, there is the mother bark
640
00:33:12,720 --> 00:33:15,040
and this time of year
the sap is running between
641
00:33:15,040 --> 00:33:17,520
the mother bark
and the secondary bark.
642
00:33:17,520 --> 00:33:20,120
So we're gonna,
about to pull this one off the tree.
643
00:33:22,480 --> 00:33:24,600
There you go. So this is the bark
that's gonna be used
644
00:33:24,600 --> 00:33:28,360
to make wine plugs, insulation.
645
00:33:28,360 --> 00:33:30,040
Wow!
646
00:33:30,040 --> 00:33:32,600
This bark comes off.
647
00:33:32,600 --> 00:33:35,280
It's not actually affecting
the living tree at all, then?
648
00:33:35,280 --> 00:33:38,320
This is like the dead layer
of skin on the top. Exactly.
649
00:33:38,320 --> 00:33:39,960
Then how often do you get
to harvest?
650
00:33:39,960 --> 00:33:41,400
Ten years.
651
00:33:41,400 --> 00:33:44,640
So, to harvest a tree, it's got
to be at least 50 years old.
652
00:33:44,640 --> 00:33:46,880
We were just saying that, actually,
coming to Marseille,
653
00:33:46,880 --> 00:33:50,120
we didn't even appreciate
where cork was from.
654
00:33:50,120 --> 00:33:53,000
Yeah, and it's been used since
the antiquities, centuries.
655
00:33:53,000 --> 00:33:56,440
Since the pyramids,
we found cork plugs on amphoras
656
00:33:56,440 --> 00:33:58,720
that were thousands of years old.
657
00:33:58,720 --> 00:34:00,160
Ah, it's just brilliant.
658
00:34:00,160 --> 00:34:01,400
Guess where else it's used.
659
00:34:01,400 --> 00:34:04,480
As insulation,
in the nose of the Space Shuttle.
660
00:34:04,480 --> 00:34:06,960
No, no, no, come on!
Look it up, it's serious.
661
00:34:06,960 --> 00:34:08,880
Ha-ha! "Look it up." I love it!
Yeah.
662
00:34:08,880 --> 00:34:10,920
It's a small miracle of nature.
663
00:34:13,240 --> 00:34:16,880
The decline of the French
cork forests is largely due to
664
00:34:16,880 --> 00:34:18,760
new, cheaper alternatives.
665
00:34:18,760 --> 00:34:21,960
Plastic stoppers and screwcaps
led some wine producers
666
00:34:21,960 --> 00:34:27,200
to make the switch from the more
expensive, hand-harvested product.
667
00:34:27,200 --> 00:34:29,720
Wow! Look at that for a lump.
668
00:34:31,880 --> 00:34:33,440
Whoa!
669
00:34:33,440 --> 00:34:36,880
Oh, that is... Whoa.
That's incredible.
670
00:34:36,880 --> 00:34:40,120
However, in a world desperate
for eco-friendly,
671
00:34:40,120 --> 00:34:41,800
home-grown alternatives,
672
00:34:41,800 --> 00:34:44,920
traditional cork
is having a resurgence.
673
00:34:44,920 --> 00:34:46,760
What is your plan for the forest?
674
00:34:46,760 --> 00:34:49,520
To renovate more surface area.
675
00:34:49,520 --> 00:34:51,880
So, the harvest for this
676
00:34:51,880 --> 00:34:55,240
will pay for renovating
another 10-20 hectares.
677
00:34:55,240 --> 00:34:57,520
That's beautiful. What did your dad
always say?
678
00:34:57,520 --> 00:34:59,840
"It's a very rich society where men
plant trees
679
00:34:59,840 --> 00:35:01,640
"they'll never sit under." Yep.
680
00:35:01,640 --> 00:35:04,240
And the whole mindset of
the work you're doing
681
00:35:04,240 --> 00:35:06,240
for the future, well done.
682
00:35:06,240 --> 00:35:08,640
Won't you use this for your picnic?
683
00:35:08,640 --> 00:35:11,760
May we? Yeah, sure, of course.
It's been a complete pleasure.
684
00:35:13,600 --> 00:35:16,160
So, leaving Philip
to continue his harvesting...
685
00:35:18,800 --> 00:35:23,080
...there's the important business of
a Provencal picnic to see to.
686
00:35:23,080 --> 00:35:26,960
Chin-chin!
Get a glass, darling girl.
687
00:35:26,960 --> 00:35:30,120
Recognise these?
THEY CHUCKLE
688
00:35:30,120 --> 00:35:33,040
I just opened that bottle in a
completely different way.
689
00:35:33,040 --> 00:35:36,160
It's local wine,
so I'm just hoping it's local cork.
690
00:35:36,160 --> 00:35:38,600
And, in this spectacular setting,
691
00:35:38,600 --> 00:35:41,840
Dick can't resist reading
some well chosen words.
692
00:35:43,320 --> 00:35:46,280
"Over the Easter weekend,
we drove La Tulipe Noire..."
693
00:35:46,280 --> 00:35:48,400
That's the name of their car.
"..way up into the hills,
694
00:35:48,400 --> 00:35:50,000
"off the beaten tourist track.
695
00:35:50,000 --> 00:35:53,080
"There wasn't much traffic
and we moseyed along."
696
00:35:53,080 --> 00:35:54,640
Did we mosey along today or what?
697
00:35:54,640 --> 00:35:56,040
THEY LAUGH
698
00:35:56,040 --> 00:36:00,240
We had a picnic lunch
in a cork forest.
699
00:36:00,240 --> 00:36:02,840
You are such a romantic.
700
00:36:02,840 --> 00:36:04,680
I think it's really quite special.
701
00:36:04,680 --> 00:36:06,480
SHE LAUGHS
702
00:36:17,520 --> 00:36:20,360
WOMAN VOCALISES
703
00:36:27,200 --> 00:36:29,720
Provence is dotted
with picturesque towns
704
00:36:29,720 --> 00:36:32,560
and postcard-perfect villages.
705
00:36:32,560 --> 00:36:35,600
East of Marseille lies
one such town,
706
00:36:35,600 --> 00:36:38,040
the world capital of perfume -
707
00:36:38,040 --> 00:36:39,360
Grasse.
708
00:36:42,440 --> 00:36:46,800
The town was made internationally
famous by big brands like Chanel
709
00:36:46,800 --> 00:36:50,440
and Christian Dior,
710
00:36:50,440 --> 00:36:53,920
but Dick and Angel are after
something more personal,
711
00:36:53,920 --> 00:36:57,560
so they're meeting perfume expert
Jessica Buchanan.
712
00:36:57,560 --> 00:36:59,680
Hello! Hello.
713
00:36:59,680 --> 00:37:02,200
Ah, how are you?
Good, thank you.
714
00:37:02,200 --> 00:37:04,680
Jessica, this is stunning.
It's magical here.
715
00:37:04,680 --> 00:37:06,240
It really is.
716
00:37:06,240 --> 00:37:09,560
It's a sweetie shop of scents.
717
00:37:09,560 --> 00:37:12,480
This exquisite garden
looks out over the town
718
00:37:12,480 --> 00:37:16,360
and boasts scents from Provence
and beyond.
719
00:37:16,360 --> 00:37:19,280
I tell you what we would love
to do today,
720
00:37:19,280 --> 00:37:23,600
is, with your expertise,
is create a scent,
721
00:37:23,600 --> 00:37:26,040
cos we've had this wonderful
adventure in Marseille,
722
00:37:26,040 --> 00:37:31,040
but we'd like to take a scent to
kind of remind us of our adventure.
723
00:37:31,040 --> 00:37:32,760
Sure. Well, let's go.
724
00:37:32,760 --> 00:37:35,000
Right, Jessica, lead us.
All right, follow me.
725
00:37:35,000 --> 00:37:36,560
Thank you.
726
00:37:36,560 --> 00:37:40,440
A perfumer's work station
is known as an organ.
727
00:37:40,440 --> 00:37:42,160
And here we are.
728
00:37:42,160 --> 00:37:47,400
This is where we are
going to compose your fragrance.
729
00:37:47,400 --> 00:37:48,920
Whoa!
730
00:37:51,240 --> 00:37:55,600
The language of perfumery has always
loosely followed that of music.
731
00:37:55,600 --> 00:37:58,120
Different scents are referred
to as notes,
732
00:37:58,120 --> 00:38:00,360
and, in the same way that
musical notes combine
733
00:38:00,360 --> 00:38:02,000
to create a symphony,
734
00:38:02,000 --> 00:38:04,760
scent notes combine
to create a fragrance.
735
00:38:06,680 --> 00:38:09,960
I just want to get on there
and start playing.
736
00:38:09,960 --> 00:38:11,760
We have done everything,
737
00:38:11,760 --> 00:38:15,560
from cooking Bouillabaisse
with sort of herbes de Provence
738
00:38:15,560 --> 00:38:18,760
to drinking mint tea and...
Speakeasy.
739
00:38:18,760 --> 00:38:21,440
Speakeasy, where we had this
fabulous picon.
740
00:38:21,440 --> 00:38:24,920
So, let's start with mint.
741
00:38:24,920 --> 00:38:27,320
Yes. Yes. Yes? OK.
742
00:38:27,320 --> 00:38:29,280
Tell me what you think.
743
00:38:31,200 --> 00:38:34,800
Does it resemble
what your memories are?
744
00:38:34,800 --> 00:38:36,720
Does it take you there
a little bit?
745
00:38:38,200 --> 00:38:39,520
I-I love this.
746
00:38:39,520 --> 00:38:41,720
Smelling that just took me
back there.
747
00:38:41,720 --> 00:38:46,560
Picon was a drink that we had
in a fabulous cocktail
748
00:38:46,560 --> 00:38:48,480
and it's got bitter orange in it.
749
00:38:48,480 --> 00:38:50,200
This is petitgrain. Petitgrain.
750
00:38:50,200 --> 00:38:53,480
So we'll see if this is the note.
751
00:38:53,480 --> 00:38:57,680
Oh, I love that. That is a yes.
OK, fantastic. It's a yes from me.
752
00:38:57,680 --> 00:38:59,440
OK, great.
753
00:38:59,440 --> 00:39:01,680
Oh, yeah, get me a cocktail.
754
00:39:01,680 --> 00:39:04,960
Where does sort of
the herbes de Provence?
755
00:39:04,960 --> 00:39:07,200
We had it in the Bouillabaisse,
so, you know,
756
00:39:07,200 --> 00:39:09,360
where does sage, thyme, kind of...?
757
00:39:09,360 --> 00:39:11,600
Can we weave that into this?
758
00:39:11,600 --> 00:39:12,960
Yeah, we can, absolutely.
Brilliant.
759
00:39:12,960 --> 00:39:14,520
Let's smell the thyme.
760
00:39:16,760 --> 00:39:21,640
This... This is a big, BIG yes from
me.
761
00:39:21,640 --> 00:39:24,160
OK. One of the things that I'm
going to remember most
762
00:39:24,160 --> 00:39:26,200
about Marseille is being at sea.
763
00:39:27,640 --> 00:39:30,400
There's one plant that we do
associate with water
764
00:39:30,400 --> 00:39:35,240
and that is celery seed... Ah!
...because it's salt. OK.
765
00:39:35,240 --> 00:39:40,640
This is a hypercritical carbon
dioxide extraction.
766
00:39:40,640 --> 00:39:42,520
You are speaking a wonderful
language. I don't understand it,
767
00:39:42,520 --> 00:39:44,200
but you are... I'm loving it.
768
00:39:44,200 --> 00:39:47,440
But I'm just smiling because I know
it means something.
769
00:39:50,680 --> 00:39:52,360
Got to say, I love that smell.
770
00:39:53,680 --> 00:39:57,760
I think a little hint of this
could really sit harmoniously.
771
00:39:57,760 --> 00:39:59,480
Am I using all the right language?
772
00:39:59,480 --> 00:40:01,440
Yep, you are, absolutely.
773
00:40:01,440 --> 00:40:02,600
Do you know what?
774
00:40:02,600 --> 00:40:04,760
We're in Grasse,
making a scent together.
775
00:40:04,760 --> 00:40:07,760
I know. This is amazing.
It's gorgeous.
776
00:40:07,760 --> 00:40:10,240
Finally, using a floral base,
777
00:40:10,240 --> 00:40:12,560
Jessica will mix
all the notes together
778
00:40:12,560 --> 00:40:14,560
to create Dick and Angel's scent.
779
00:40:14,560 --> 00:40:16,720
Do we get the cauldron out now?
780
00:40:16,720 --> 00:40:19,080
Hubble-bubble. No? None of that?
781
00:40:19,080 --> 00:40:20,240
Not quite.
782
00:40:21,640 --> 00:40:23,800
Jessica will weigh each
note carefully,
783
00:40:23,800 --> 00:40:26,040
getting the proportions exactly
right,
784
00:40:26,040 --> 00:40:29,360
to create a perfectly balanced
perfume.
785
00:40:29,360 --> 00:40:30,640
So, are we ready?
786
00:40:30,640 --> 00:40:33,640
Would you like to smell
your composition? Yeah!
787
00:40:35,800 --> 00:40:37,600
So we're all smelling this for
the first time.
788
00:40:37,600 --> 00:40:39,640
We're all smelling it for
the first time.
789
00:40:39,640 --> 00:40:42,720
Oh, my goodness, I just... I can
smell it already. I can smell it.
790
00:40:42,720 --> 00:40:44,680
Already. Come on.
791
00:40:51,440 --> 00:40:53,240
I love it. You love it?
Yeah.
792
00:40:53,240 --> 00:40:55,800
I love it, too. It's fantastic.
793
00:40:57,840 --> 00:40:59,960
We've come to you with the memories
794
00:40:59,960 --> 00:41:03,480
and we've just... We've just made
a bit of, er, music together.
795
00:41:03,480 --> 00:41:05,320
Yeah.
796
00:41:05,320 --> 00:41:09,120
Thank you for giving me this memory
in a bottle.
797
00:41:09,120 --> 00:41:11,440
It was a pleasure, really, yeah.
798
00:41:11,440 --> 00:41:13,000
Thank you.
799
00:41:24,120 --> 00:41:27,080
With their provencal
odyssey almost at an end,
800
00:41:27,080 --> 00:41:29,720
Dick and Angel can't leave
without a visit
801
00:41:29,720 --> 00:41:33,520
to one of the region's most
extraordinary landscapes.
802
00:41:35,840 --> 00:41:38,960
Western Europe's largest
river delta -
803
00:41:38,960 --> 00:41:41,080
the Camargue.
804
00:41:47,000 --> 00:41:49,080
It boasts beautiful wetlands,
805
00:41:49,080 --> 00:41:50,600
impressive wildlife,
806
00:41:50,600 --> 00:41:54,480
and miles and miles of sunflowers...
807
00:41:57,200 --> 00:41:59,880
...but nothing compares to
the pink waters.
808
00:42:02,360 --> 00:42:05,240
Oh, look, all that,
this is like crystals.
809
00:42:05,240 --> 00:42:09,000
Everything here, doesn't matter
which direction we look,
810
00:42:09,000 --> 00:42:10,640
this is all salt.
811
00:42:15,240 --> 00:42:17,920
This place here,
it goes back to the Romans.
812
00:42:17,920 --> 00:42:19,160
I think the children,
813
00:42:19,160 --> 00:42:22,000
at some point, we have to
bring them here, cos it's...
814
00:42:22,000 --> 00:42:23,600
It has to be seen, doesn't it?
815
00:42:25,400 --> 00:42:28,520
The way that the sea water is
channelled onto the flats
816
00:42:28,520 --> 00:42:32,080
and evaporated is an incredible feat
of engineering
817
00:42:32,080 --> 00:42:36,640
that has been virtually unchanged
for over 2,000 years.
818
00:42:39,200 --> 00:42:41,360
That looks stunning.
819
00:42:41,360 --> 00:42:42,920
Oh, wow.
820
00:42:42,920 --> 00:42:46,280
We buy sel de Camargue in
the little tubs
821
00:42:46,280 --> 00:42:50,240
from our local supermarket
and it looks exactly like that.
822
00:42:55,080 --> 00:42:56,680
It's lovely. That is delicious.
823
00:42:59,160 --> 00:43:02,040
Oh, my goodness me! Come on!
824
00:43:02,040 --> 00:43:05,360
Honestly, a decade ago, you could
never have convinced me
825
00:43:05,360 --> 00:43:07,240
that I would be excited by this.
826
00:43:07,240 --> 00:43:09,040
THEY LAUGH
827
00:43:09,040 --> 00:43:15,040
Today, 300,000 tonnes of salt
are harvested every year.
828
00:43:15,040 --> 00:43:17,160
This is stunning.
829
00:43:19,000 --> 00:43:21,760
Look at that.
830
00:43:21,760 --> 00:43:24,360
All the way as far as
the eye can see there.
831
00:43:24,360 --> 00:43:26,600
The highest altitude in the Camargue
above sea level
832
00:43:26,600 --> 00:43:30,080
is about four-and-a-half metres.
See how low it all is?
833
00:43:30,080 --> 00:43:32,520
We are up here overlooking it
cos somebody's made
834
00:43:32,520 --> 00:43:36,280
a man-made mountain of salt.
It's phenomenal.
835
00:43:36,280 --> 00:43:39,320
I'm just overwhelmed at
the colours, like, the pinks
836
00:43:39,320 --> 00:43:42,480
and purples and the beauty of it.
837
00:43:42,480 --> 00:43:44,280
Why are they pink?
838
00:43:44,280 --> 00:43:45,840
Because I asked them
to make them pink for you.
839
00:43:45,840 --> 00:43:46,880
SHE LAUGHS
840
00:43:48,240 --> 00:43:51,560
The colour comes from
the algae that lives in salty water
841
00:43:51,560 --> 00:43:54,480
and then the algae's eaten
by little shrimps,
842
00:43:54,480 --> 00:43:57,000
little crustations,
and they go pink.
843
00:43:57,000 --> 00:43:59,120
Guess what eats them? Flamingos.
844
00:43:59,120 --> 00:44:00,240
That's why flamingos are pink,
845
00:44:00,240 --> 00:44:01,960
because the algae is eaten
by the shrimps,
846
00:44:01,960 --> 00:44:05,400
eaten by the flamingos, and we have
pink flamingos in the Camargue.
847
00:44:14,160 --> 00:44:16,440
And, for the last stop of the trip,
848
00:44:16,440 --> 00:44:19,560
Dick and Angel are going to get
up close and personal
849
00:44:19,560 --> 00:44:22,280
with daughter
Dorothy's favourite animal.
850
00:44:26,480 --> 00:44:28,840
And son Arthur
would be excited, too,
851
00:44:28,840 --> 00:44:33,480
because today 20,000 of
the birds call the Camargue home.
852
00:44:43,600 --> 00:44:45,320
ANGEL CHUCKLES
853
00:44:46,480 --> 00:44:48,440
Oh... Oh, my gosh.
854
00:44:58,880 --> 00:45:04,520
I have never seen flamingos
out in the wild.
855
00:45:04,520 --> 00:45:06,600
Look at the colours,
look at the colours. Ah...
856
00:45:11,040 --> 00:45:15,480
There's so many things on this trip
that are so in our lives,
857
00:45:15,480 --> 00:45:16,960
like flamingos.
858
00:45:16,960 --> 00:45:19,000
Dorothy's room's covered in them,
859
00:45:19,000 --> 00:45:21,280
but I didn't know how beautiful they
were when they lifted
860
00:45:21,280 --> 00:45:23,400
their wings up.
I mean, look at the colours.
861
00:45:23,400 --> 00:45:25,080
It's amazing, isn't it?
862
00:45:31,640 --> 00:45:35,640
This is France, but it's not like
our bit of France.
863
00:45:35,640 --> 00:45:37,040
This is so different.
864
00:45:37,040 --> 00:45:41,640
It's been a trip
of unexpected discoveries.
865
00:45:41,640 --> 00:45:43,000
From the fish market,
866
00:45:43,000 --> 00:45:47,480
watching the families coming
to sell their fish... Yeah.
867
00:45:47,480 --> 00:45:52,400
Actually making Bouillabaisse after
sailing around to an island.
868
00:45:53,640 --> 00:45:57,440
This is stuff we will never forget.
869
00:46:10,160 --> 00:46:13,320
Next time, Gascony...
870
00:46:13,320 --> 00:46:14,840
It's raining juice!
871
00:46:14,840 --> 00:46:16,440
...with incredible food.
872
00:46:16,440 --> 00:46:18,360
Darling, I think
this is some of your finest work.
873
00:46:18,360 --> 00:46:19,880
THEY LAUGH
874
00:46:19,880 --> 00:46:21,440
...breathtaking nature...
875
00:46:21,440 --> 00:46:25,520
1.8 million babies
went into the wild.
876
00:46:25,520 --> 00:46:27,320
...and hidden secrets.
877
00:46:27,320 --> 00:46:29,960
Ah, this is magic.
878
00:46:29,960 --> 00:46:33,160
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