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We used to picnic where the thrift
grew deep and tufted to the edge.
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00:00:15,000 --> 00:00:20,360
We saw the yellow foam flakes
drift in trembling sponges
on the ledge below us
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00:00:20,360 --> 00:00:23,920
till the wind would lift them up
the cliff and o'er the hedge.
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00:00:23,920 --> 00:00:28,320
Sand in the sandwiches, wasps in
the tea, sun on our bathing dresses
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00:00:28,320 --> 00:00:32,440
heavy with the wet, squelch of the
bladder-wrack waiting for the sea,
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00:00:32,440 --> 00:00:35,800
fleas round the tamarisk,
an early cigarette.
7
00:00:50,840 --> 00:00:55,200
In the late 1960s,
I was an undergraduate at Oxford
doing English,
8
00:00:55,200 --> 00:00:58,920
and I was really into people
like TS Eliot, Sylvia Plath,
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00:00:58,920 --> 00:01:02,200
and the girls were into
Leonard Cohen, of course.
10
00:01:02,200 --> 00:01:07,200
If you wanted to get anywhere
with them, you had to be in
with Leonard, too. Very gloomy.
11
00:01:07,200 --> 00:01:10,960
So the thought of a very optimistic
poet like John Betjeman,
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00:01:10,960 --> 00:01:14,080
when he was talking
about village steeples
13
00:01:14,080 --> 00:01:19,360
and holidaymakers in the sand,
14
00:01:14,080 --> 00:01:19,360
and splendour, splendour everywhere,
it would not have worked.
15
00:01:19,360 --> 00:01:22,480
But I've lived here in Cornwall
ever since university,
16
00:01:22,480 --> 00:01:26,200
and in fact, John Betjeman lived
17
00:01:22,480 --> 00:01:26,200
just over Bray Hill over there.
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Everything he wrote about in his
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00:01:26,200 --> 00:01:30,280
poetry, the sun, the sea,
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00:01:30,280 --> 00:01:34,800
the larks in the sky, the lark sang
melodious, the blue sky,
21
00:01:34,800 --> 00:01:37,880
it's all in those poems,
so no wonder I'm such a fan.
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00:01:39,160 --> 00:01:41,760
I feel I've got something
in common with Sir John.
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Both our families originated
in Germany, and both found a
sense of escape in Cornwall.
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00:01:47,000 --> 00:01:49,200
My father and uncle
built a house here,
25
00:01:49,200 --> 00:01:53,920
and it became a haven that I was
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00:01:49,200 --> 00:01:53,920
to enjoy for most of my early life.
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00:01:53,920 --> 00:01:59,600
John Betjeman's retreat was on
the other side of the estuary,
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but he knew Padstow well.
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00:01:59,600 --> 00:02:01,560
I'm getting to know
the man behind the poem
30
00:02:01,560 --> 00:02:07,800
by finding people who knew him
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00:02:01,560 --> 00:02:07,800
and really understood his affection
for this part of the world.
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00:02:07,800 --> 00:02:13,040
My idea is to cook them a
celebratory centenary meal in his
honour, the sort of food
33
00:02:13,040 --> 00:02:16,760
he'd enjoy for himself after a day's
surfing at Polzeath Beach,
34
00:02:16,760 --> 00:02:20,520
or just wondering amongst the
tamarisk, searching for a muse.
35
00:02:20,520 --> 00:02:24,800
It's funny, really. There's loads of
books about John Betjeman's life
36
00:02:24,800 --> 00:02:29,480
and poetry, but not many of them
37
00:02:24,800 --> 00:02:29,480
give a clue about
what he would like to eat.
38
00:02:29,480 --> 00:02:31,720
I really hope he liked fish.
39
00:02:37,520 --> 00:02:41,560
When I was about 15, I started
reading John Betjeman's poetry,
40
00:02:41,560 --> 00:02:44,000
especially his Cornish verse.
41
00:02:44,000 --> 00:02:48,200
They were so much better read
42
00:02:44,000 --> 00:02:48,200
by firelight in the depth of winter.
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00:02:49,720 --> 00:02:52,920
They bring to life the sights
and sounds and smells
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00:02:52,920 --> 00:02:55,640
of a Cornish beach,
nobody does it better.
45
00:02:55,640 --> 00:02:59,840
And it's on that long train journey
from Paddington down to Cornwall
46
00:02:59,840 --> 00:03:03,120
that you get that
first exciting glimpse of the sea,
47
00:03:03,120 --> 00:03:06,400
when the train approaches Dawlish,
to disgorge holidaymakers
48
00:03:06,400 --> 00:03:10,520
from London,
the Midlands and all points east.
49
00:03:10,520 --> 00:03:14,560
It's where the smell of ozone,
seaweed and suntan lotion
50
00:03:14,560 --> 00:03:18,840
fill the carriages with optimism
51
00:03:14,560 --> 00:03:18,840
for the family holiday to come.
52
00:03:18,840 --> 00:03:22,920
He captured the very essence
of the British seaside holiday,
53
00:03:22,920 --> 00:03:26,120
right down to the dinner gong
in the guest house,
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00:03:26,120 --> 00:03:30,360
days of messing about on deckchairs,
sandcastles, rock pools,
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00:03:30,360 --> 00:03:34,360
swims before afternoon tea -
weather permitting, of course.
56
00:03:34,360 --> 00:03:38,120
If you continue down the line,
you can lose yourself
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00:03:38,120 --> 00:03:41,760
in an altogether
more solitary and magical place.
58
00:03:48,280 --> 00:03:52,680
There's something about Cornwall
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00:03:48,280 --> 00:03:52,680
that's always excited
artists and writers.
60
00:03:52,680 --> 00:03:57,840
It's to do with the
quality of the light and the wild,
romantic nature of the place.
61
00:03:57,840 --> 00:04:00,360
Regardless of where we come from,
62
00:04:00,360 --> 00:04:03,280
Cornwall touches a nerve
in all of us.
63
00:04:03,280 --> 00:04:09,280
Betjeman instinctively knew the
sheer joy of just being by the sea.
64
00:04:12,240 --> 00:04:17,160
George III took
the seaside cure for biliousness.
65
00:04:17,160 --> 00:04:22,960
We need the seaside cure for relief
from anxiety and tension.
66
00:04:22,960 --> 00:04:28,000
We need it to realise there's
something greater than ourselves,
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00:04:28,000 --> 00:04:31,520
even if it only comes
in little things.
68
00:04:31,520 --> 00:04:35,120
Turf,
scented with thyme and mushrooms.
69
00:04:35,120 --> 00:04:38,200
The feel of firm sand underfoot.
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00:04:38,200 --> 00:04:40,800
The ripple of an incoming tide.
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00:04:40,800 --> 00:04:44,560
A salt breeze, the smell of seaweed.
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00:04:44,560 --> 00:04:48,240
That's where the cure is,
at the sea's edge.
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00:04:56,680 --> 00:05:01,200
I've known about this so-called
seaside cure all of my life,
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00:05:01,200 --> 00:05:03,520
and it's really at the very core
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00:05:01,200 --> 00:05:03,520
of my being
76
00:05:03,520 --> 00:05:05,360
and my business here in Padstow.
77
00:05:05,360 --> 00:05:08,680
I was brought up in Oxfordshire
a long way from the sea,
78
00:05:08,680 --> 00:05:11,080
and like
John Betjeman, I was sent away
79
00:05:11,080 --> 00:05:15,200
from home to a boarding school and
couldn't wait to tick off the days
80
00:05:15,200 --> 00:05:17,680
until the summer holidays
came around,
81
00:05:17,680 --> 00:05:22,080
and the family would all troop down
to Padstow for the best time ever.
82
00:05:28,160 --> 00:05:33,480
Escape.
Escape from the holiday crowds.
83
00:05:33,480 --> 00:05:35,760
Over Saltash Bridge.
84
00:05:35,760 --> 00:05:42,880
Saltash Bridge
by Isambard Kingdom Brunel, 1859,
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00:05:42,880 --> 00:05:47,200
the first railway link
between Cornwall and England.
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00:05:47,200 --> 00:05:53,440
Cornwall - not another county,
another country.
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00:05:53,440 --> 00:05:57,400
For years,
an all-day journey by train,
88
00:05:57,400 --> 00:06:00,680
and a wild reward at the end of it.
89
00:06:08,200 --> 00:06:12,600
I happen to know that this was John
Betjeman's favourite train journey.
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00:06:12,600 --> 00:06:14,080
Well, of course it was.
91
00:06:14,080 --> 00:06:17,760
Going over the Tamar is still
a magical experience for me,
92
00:06:17,760 --> 00:06:19,120
just as it was for him.
93
00:06:19,120 --> 00:06:22,840
But what he liked particularly
was the journey from Waterloo,
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00:06:22,840 --> 00:06:28,280
all the way to the utter endness
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00:06:22,840 --> 00:06:28,280
of the end of the line at Padstow.
96
00:06:28,280 --> 00:06:32,120
In fact, when I was young,
I used to do that journey, too.
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00:06:32,120 --> 00:06:36,160
It took forever, it took about nine
hours, and all the way down,
98
00:06:36,160 --> 00:06:39,760
you'd be shedding carriages,
and the train would get smaller.
99
00:06:39,760 --> 00:06:44,520
As you went over that last
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00:06:39,760 --> 00:06:44,520
bridge into Padstow, there were just
two carriages on it.
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00:06:44,520 --> 00:06:48,680
He wrote about it so nicely
in Summoned By Bells,
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00:06:48,680 --> 00:06:50,440
and here's a bit from it:
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00:06:50,440 --> 00:06:55,480
"The long express from Waterloo
that takes us down to Cornwall.
104
00:06:55,480 --> 00:06:58,720
"Teatime shows the
small fields waiting,
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00:06:58,720 --> 00:07:03,680
"every blackthorn hedge straining
106
00:06:58,720 --> 00:07:03,680
inland before the south-west gale."
107
00:07:03,680 --> 00:07:05,600
He's so good at summing things up.
108
00:07:05,600 --> 00:07:08,880
I'm right in a Cornish gale,
a gale of wind there.
109
00:07:08,880 --> 00:07:12,000
"The emptying train,
wind in the ventilators,
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00:07:12,000 --> 00:07:14,400
"puffs out of Egloskerry
to Tresmeer,
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00:07:14,400 --> 00:07:18,600
"through minty meadows,
under bearded trees and hills
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00:07:18,600 --> 00:07:23,400
"upon whose sides the clinging farms
hold Bible Christians."
113
00:07:23,400 --> 00:07:28,320
Can it really be that this same
carriage came from Waterloo?
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00:07:31,560 --> 00:07:37,000
On Wadebridge station, what a breath
of sea scented the Camel Valley.
115
00:07:37,000 --> 00:07:42,440
Cornish air, soft Cornish rains,
and silence after steam,
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00:07:42,440 --> 00:07:47,080
as out of Derry's stable came the
break to drag us up
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00:07:47,080 --> 00:07:51,680
those long, familiar hills,
past haunted woods,
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00:07:51,680 --> 00:07:57,720
and oil-lit farms, and on to far
Trebetherick by the sounding sea.
119
00:08:07,800 --> 00:08:09,440
This is the Camel estuary,
120
00:08:09,440 --> 00:08:13,240
which provided John Betjeman
with much of his inspiration.
121
00:08:13,240 --> 00:08:16,520
This place gave him
a sense of freedom,
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00:08:16,520 --> 00:08:19,720
a release from an unhappy
childhood in London,
123
00:08:19,720 --> 00:08:21,800
and he's never really left it.
124
00:08:21,800 --> 00:08:24,960
He's buried here,
in the middle of the golf course,
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00:08:24,960 --> 00:08:29,240
in a little graveyard
beside his beloved St Enodoc.
126
00:08:34,760 --> 00:08:39,760
Thanks to that so-called expert
on railways in the sixties,
Dr Beeching,
127
00:08:39,760 --> 00:08:43,880
the London train no longer
goes to the utter endness
128
00:08:43,880 --> 00:08:46,080
of the end of the line in Padstow.
129
00:08:46,080 --> 00:08:48,920
The old railway track
is now a cycle trail.
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00:08:48,920 --> 00:08:51,120
Well, it suits me.
131
00:08:51,120 --> 00:08:54,800
Apparently, the young Betjeman
thought nothing of cycling
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00:08:54,800 --> 00:08:58,040
15 or 20 miles a day
around the lanes of Cornwall,
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00:08:58,040 --> 00:09:00,640
searching for
wild flowers and churches.
134
00:09:00,640 --> 00:09:04,760
The open air was warm and heavy
with the scent of flowering mint,
135
00:09:04,760 --> 00:09:08,240
and all the baking countryside
was kind.
136
00:09:08,240 --> 00:09:11,040
I get the feeling he was
a bit of a loner as a lad,
137
00:09:11,040 --> 00:09:15,560
and not too fond of organised games,
or organised anything, come to that.
138
00:09:15,560 --> 00:09:20,200
Like me, he needed a bolt hole,
somewhere to be quiet and apart.
139
00:09:20,200 --> 00:09:22,320
It was the same in later life.
140
00:09:22,320 --> 00:09:25,560
This was his home in Daymer Lane,
here in Trebetherick,
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00:09:25,560 --> 00:09:30,160
a welcome retreat from London life
where he did a lot of his writing.
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00:09:33,120 --> 00:09:37,280
Down the bottom of the lane is St
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00:09:33,120 --> 00:09:37,280
Enodoc church, with its witches hat.
144
00:09:37,280 --> 00:09:41,120
That's his mother there.
And this is Cliff Snell.
145
00:09:41,120 --> 00:09:46,880
He retired to Wadebridge 20 years
146
00:09:41,120 --> 00:09:46,880
ago, and although he never met JB,
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00:09:46,880 --> 00:09:49,120
he's become something
of an authority,
148
00:09:49,120 --> 00:09:53,280
and is a popular guide for the
many tourists who visit his grave.
149
00:09:53,280 --> 00:09:56,120
If you go back to the early 1900s,
150
00:09:56,120 --> 00:10:02,040
he was living a very repressive
life in Highgate, going to school,
151
00:10:02,040 --> 00:10:04,680
which he didn't like particularly,
152
00:10:04,680 --> 00:10:09,320
and then suddenly to come down
here by train, which he adored,
153
00:10:09,320 --> 00:10:11,520
and he'd come out by horse and cart -
154
00:10:11,520 --> 00:10:15,560
that's all the taxis were in those
days - and then can you imagine
155
00:10:15,560 --> 00:10:19,720
waking up next morning
and running down to the high tide,
156
00:10:19,720 --> 00:10:21,800
over this particular spot?
157
00:10:21,800 --> 00:10:24,600
He loved it when it was low tide
because he could see
158
00:10:24,600 --> 00:10:27,960
nobody else had been on that sand
at all except himself.
159
00:10:27,960 --> 00:10:30,680
Can you imagine the young boy
looking behind
160
00:10:30,680 --> 00:10:33,640
and seeing his footmarks all the
way down to the sea?
161
00:10:33,640 --> 00:10:36,280
I think the reason
I like him so much
162
00:10:36,280 --> 00:10:39,040
is because I had similar feelings.
163
00:10:39,040 --> 00:10:42,440
I remember me and my sister
squabbling about who'd be
164
00:10:42,440 --> 00:10:46,000
the first to see the sea when
we drove in the old Jaguar.
165
00:10:46,000 --> 00:10:48,680
It was somewhere between
Wadebridge and Padstow.
166
00:10:48,680 --> 00:10:52,000
Because I was older,
I knew where I could see the sea,
167
00:10:52,000 --> 00:10:53,840
and she used to get so cross.
168
00:10:53,840 --> 00:10:58,440
Can't you remember the sheer joy
of suddenly there was the sea,
169
00:10:58,440 --> 00:11:01,040
as he says, on Wadebridge station?
170
00:11:01,040 --> 00:11:04,520
"What a breath of sea,
the scent of the Camel Valley."
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00:11:04,520 --> 00:11:08,680
I can remember that.
Suddenly, somewhere, that's the sea.
172
00:11:08,680 --> 00:11:11,760
And he wasn't on his own,
friends used to come as well.
173
00:11:11,760 --> 00:11:13,880
He preferred going out on his own,
174
00:11:13,880 --> 00:11:17,160
but he loved to have afternoon
picnics on the sand.
175
00:11:17,160 --> 00:11:23,480
The whole thing was childhood as
it should be today but no longer is.
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00:11:28,120 --> 00:11:30,520
Here I am down in Cornwall.
177
00:11:30,520 --> 00:11:33,680
It's the most precious
fortnight in the year for me.
178
00:11:33,680 --> 00:11:38,440
I can't help coming down here
every year without fail.
179
00:11:38,440 --> 00:11:42,920
The outline of the hills
seen through the windows there,
180
00:11:42,920 --> 00:11:47,720
and Padstow, far off across the
estuary are still the same,
181
00:11:47,720 --> 00:11:53,360
and so are the smells of sea and
182
00:11:47,720 --> 00:11:53,360
thyme-scented turf on these cliffs.
183
00:11:53,360 --> 00:11:57,680
The Atlantic and the sands
are still the same.
184
00:11:57,680 --> 00:12:00,040
They can't build on them,
thank goodness.
185
00:12:01,720 --> 00:12:08,600
He has captured a whole age of
the '20s and '30s, tennis girls,
186
00:12:08,600 --> 00:12:11,200
gin and lime, the Six o'clock News,
187
00:12:11,200 --> 00:12:14,880
"Miss J Hunter Dunn, furnish'd and
burnish'd by Aldershot sun,
188
00:12:14,880 --> 00:12:19,480
"what strenuous
singles we played after tea.
189
00:12:19,480 --> 00:12:22,120
"We in the tournaments,
you against me."
190
00:12:22,120 --> 00:12:27,760
All those gorgeous things. He talks
about going into the cool veranda
191
00:12:27,760 --> 00:12:32,080
for a lime juice and gin, and then
listening to the Six o'clock News.
192
00:12:32,080 --> 00:12:35,760
Of course, when I came here nearly
50 years ago,
193
00:12:35,760 --> 00:12:40,040
there were hardly any houses,
and the fields now are all
194
00:12:40,040 --> 00:12:45,160
peppered with villas, and I can
remember it as just two farms.
195
00:12:45,160 --> 00:12:50,320
And now, though I'm old and
fat and ugly, I can still enjoy
196
00:12:50,320 --> 00:12:54,720
as intensely as I did when a child
all those little things
197
00:12:54,720 --> 00:12:58,400
that make Cornwall so different
from England.
198
00:12:58,400 --> 00:13:03,560
I see it all as I used to know it
in the days of horse breaks,
199
00:13:03,560 --> 00:13:07,320
and silence, silence except
for the sound of the wind
200
00:13:07,320 --> 00:13:10,320
in the tamarisk
and the crash of the waves.
201
00:13:11,840 --> 00:13:15,480
We weren't Cornish, any of us,
we were visitors,
202
00:13:15,480 --> 00:13:19,080
and we came here
for Easter and summer holidays.
203
00:13:21,400 --> 00:13:24,720
And those gardens,
which seemed so enormous then,
204
00:13:24,720 --> 00:13:28,960
are full of the ghosts of hide
and seek and treasure hunts.
205
00:13:32,360 --> 00:13:38,320
I think most people liked him
because he was a popular poet.
206
00:13:38,320 --> 00:13:42,880
Ordinary people can understand
the surface of the poetry.
207
00:13:42,880 --> 00:13:45,400
If you want to look deeper,
you can do,
208
00:13:45,400 --> 00:13:49,920
and there's usually quite
a dark strain underneath.
209
00:13:49,920 --> 00:13:53,320
A rather melancholy man sometimes.
Yes, I think he's melancholy,
210
00:13:53,320 --> 00:13:55,720
but I mean that
in a way I totally understand.
211
00:13:55,720 --> 00:14:00,400
I just wonder why poetry has
to be difficult to be serious.
212
00:14:00,400 --> 00:14:02,880
Exactly. He was very pleased...
213
00:14:02,880 --> 00:14:06,800
When he eventually wrote
214
00:14:02,880 --> 00:14:06,800
his autobiography, Summoned By Bells,
215
00:14:06,800 --> 00:14:11,240
which is wonderful,
that was received with
acclaim the worldwide over.
216
00:14:11,240 --> 00:14:15,680
I think that took away some of the
worry about his previous work
217
00:14:15,680 --> 00:14:19,200
being dismissed as not very good.
218
00:14:20,200 --> 00:14:26,320
His peculiarly English light verse
219
00:14:20,200 --> 00:14:26,320
always managed to capture a popular
mood, and he loved nothing more than
220
00:14:26,320 --> 00:14:29,960
to have a mischievous dig
at middle class pretensions.
221
00:14:29,960 --> 00:14:35,080
I think the problem with Betjeman
is that he can be very funny,
222
00:14:35,080 --> 00:14:39,720
and it's not considered serious
enough in a poet to make us laugh.
223
00:14:39,720 --> 00:14:42,120
But this just makes me laugh
so much.
224
00:14:42,120 --> 00:14:46,000
He must have written this for Joyce
225
00:14:42,120 --> 00:14:46,000
Grenfell. It's called Hunter Trials.
226
00:14:46,000 --> 00:14:48,000
Just listen to some of these verses.
227
00:14:48,000 --> 00:14:53,160
"It's awfully bad luck on Diana, her
ponies have swallowed their bits.
228
00:14:53,160 --> 00:14:57,560
"She fished down their
throats with a spanner,
229
00:14:53,160 --> 00:14:57,560
and frightened them all into fits.
230
00:14:57,560 --> 00:15:02,400
"Just look at Prunella on Guzzle,
the wizardest pony on earth.
231
00:15:02,400 --> 00:15:05,880
"Why doesn't she slacken his muzzle
232
00:15:02,400 --> 00:15:05,880
and tighten the breech in his girth?
233
00:15:05,880 --> 00:15:10,920
"I say, Mummy, there's Mrs Geezer,
and doesn't she look pretty sick?
234
00:15:10,920 --> 00:15:15,080
"I bet it's because Mona Lisa
was hit on the hock with a brick."
235
00:15:16,600 --> 00:15:20,520
"Mrs Blewitt says Monica threw it,
but Monica says it was Joan.
236
00:15:20,520 --> 00:15:26,280
"And Joan's very thick with Miss
237
00:15:20,520 --> 00:15:26,280
Blewitt, so Monica's sulking alone."
238
00:15:26,280 --> 00:15:30,520
I love the bit at the end. It says:
"Oh, wasn't it naughty of Smudges?
239
00:15:30,520 --> 00:15:32,840
"Oh, Mummy, I'm sick with disgust.
240
00:15:32,840 --> 00:15:37,720
"She threw me in front of the judges
and my silly old collarbone's bust."
241
00:15:41,000 --> 00:15:43,960
It's got to be Joyce Grenfell.
You can hear her saying it!
242
00:15:48,920 --> 00:15:53,200
This is a bit at my expense, but
243
00:15:48,920 --> 00:15:53,200
we've just been having some lunch,
244
00:15:53,200 --> 00:15:56,760
and the crew and David, the
producer, have just come up
245
00:15:56,760 --> 00:16:01,680
with this poem that they think
246
00:15:56,760 --> 00:16:01,680
Sir John might have penned himself.
247
00:16:01,680 --> 00:16:05,280
As you see, it's
very much at my expense.
248
00:16:05,280 --> 00:16:09,640
"And pasty-munching tourists
come to gaze at Stein's emporium.
249
00:16:09,640 --> 00:16:14,520
"With noses pressed to menu board,
they work out what
they might afford.
250
00:16:14,520 --> 00:16:17,400
"Hey, Dad, what's
salt and pepper squid?
251
00:16:17,400 --> 00:16:20,440
"Forget it, son, it's 40 quid!"
252
00:16:20,440 --> 00:16:22,360
I'm not amused.
253
00:16:26,120 --> 00:16:28,880
Like Sir John,
I value these cliff walks.
254
00:16:28,880 --> 00:16:31,040
They are a good way
to clear the head.
255
00:16:31,040 --> 00:16:37,640
It was the same walk to Tregardock
that inspired Sir John
to write a very dark poem indeed.
256
00:16:37,640 --> 00:16:41,520
A literary critic had slated
his latest volume of poetry.
257
00:16:41,520 --> 00:16:44,120
Well, I know what it feels like
when some TV critic
258
00:16:44,120 --> 00:16:47,280
has a go at me and my dog.
259
00:16:47,280 --> 00:16:50,080
It really cuts you to the quick.
260
00:16:50,080 --> 00:16:53,080
They called Betjeman
a lightweight versifier
261
00:16:53,080 --> 00:16:56,760
who kept to traditional verse forms
and rhyming schemes -
262
00:16:56,760 --> 00:17:00,160
the very things we now
cherish and celebrate.
263
00:17:00,160 --> 00:17:06,360
Scenery like this can often lift
the spirits but equally can have
an adverse effect.
264
00:17:06,360 --> 00:17:07,960
So he came here to Tregardock.
265
00:17:07,960 --> 00:17:11,960
It was a drizzly, foggy day
which reflected his mood.
266
00:17:11,960 --> 00:17:15,880
He wrote, "Only the shore and
cliffs are clear,
267
00:17:15,880 --> 00:17:19,240
"gigantic, slithering
shelves of slate
268
00:17:19,240 --> 00:17:24,840
"in waiting awfulness appear
like journalism full of hate."
269
00:17:24,840 --> 00:17:29,600
I think it reflects how depressed
he was by these critics
270
00:17:29,600 --> 00:17:32,480
and he wanted to be a popular poet.
271
00:17:32,480 --> 00:17:36,280
There is nothing wrong with that.
He was completely smashed by that.
272
00:17:36,280 --> 00:17:38,480
He was almost suicidal.
273
00:17:38,480 --> 00:17:45,080
The poem ends, "And I on my volcano
edge exposed to ridicule and hate
274
00:17:45,080 --> 00:17:50,040
"still do not dare to leap the ledge
and smash to pieces on the slate."
275
00:17:50,040 --> 00:17:55,160
But wounds heal and brighter moods
roll in like the flooding tide.
276
00:17:55,160 --> 00:17:59,400
And all the time the waves,
the waves, the waves.
277
00:17:59,400 --> 00:18:02,680
Chase, intersect and flatten
on the sand
278
00:18:02,680 --> 00:18:07,400
as they have done for centuries,
279
00:18:02,680 --> 00:18:07,400
as they will for centuries to come
280
00:18:07,400 --> 00:18:13,960
when not a soul is left to picnic
on the blazing rocks
and seaside is forgotten.
281
00:18:13,960 --> 00:18:18,920
Still the tides, consolingly
disastrous, will return
282
00:18:18,920 --> 00:18:23,840
while the strange starfish,
hugely magnified,
283
00:18:23,840 --> 00:18:27,680
waits in the jewelled basin
of a pool.
284
00:18:31,440 --> 00:18:36,840
Just as the dramatic scenery
along this coast inspired some of
Betjeman's greatest verse,
285
00:18:36,840 --> 00:18:40,560
it's also been responsible
for my ongoing love of the sea
286
00:18:40,560 --> 00:18:44,480
and a desire to make
the most of what comes out of it.
287
00:18:44,480 --> 00:18:46,440
OK, Chalks, let's try over here now.
288
00:18:46,440 --> 00:18:50,960
Like John Betjeman,
I've been messing around
in rock pools all my life.
289
00:18:50,960 --> 00:18:54,880
Every one is a potential
treasure trove, and of course,
290
00:18:54,880 --> 00:18:58,640
when you have a seafood restaurant
it comes in very handy too -
291
00:18:58,640 --> 00:19:01,880
especially when the spider crabs
are in season.
292
00:19:01,880 --> 00:19:04,120
Look at that.
293
00:19:04,120 --> 00:19:06,160
Look at that beauty.
294
00:19:06,160 --> 00:19:08,320
They are good when cooked
the Basque way
295
00:19:08,320 --> 00:19:12,920
with peppers and breadcrumbs and
baked in the oven - sweet as a nut.
296
00:19:12,920 --> 00:19:16,640
But in Sir John's day,
nobody ate spider crabs.
297
00:19:16,640 --> 00:19:21,280
They were regarded by the
298
00:19:16,640 --> 00:19:21,280
fishermen as a blinkin' nuisance
299
00:19:16,640 --> 00:19:21,280
and thrown over the side!
300
00:19:23,120 --> 00:19:28,120
One person who remembers those times
on the beach long ago is Sue Harbor,
301
00:19:28,120 --> 00:19:30,520
the daughter of one of his
best friends.
302
00:19:30,520 --> 00:19:34,480
He grew up with Dad on the beach,
hence the crab hooks, prawning net,
303
00:19:34,480 --> 00:19:39,920
and the seaside poems and north
Cornwall recollections. Everything.
304
00:19:39,920 --> 00:19:43,880
They just grew up...
It was a slightly informal
305
00:19:43,880 --> 00:19:51,120
but very loving group,
and that is why he writes
about it with such fond memories.
306
00:19:51,120 --> 00:19:55,120
Waves full of treasure then
were roaring up the beach,
307
00:19:55,120 --> 00:19:58,880
ropes round our mackintoshes,
waders warm and dry,
308
00:19:58,880 --> 00:20:02,600
we waited for the wreckage
to come swirling into reach,
309
00:20:02,600 --> 00:20:05,360
Ralph, Vasey, Alastair,
Biddy, John and I.
310
00:20:05,360 --> 00:20:10,320
The poem, Trebetherick, is one where
he refers to his closest friends
311
00:20:10,320 --> 00:20:15,080
which includes Sue's father, so it
312
00:20:10,320 --> 00:20:15,080
has a particular resonance for her.
313
00:20:15,080 --> 00:20:18,280
That's her dad -
the little boy at the end.
314
00:20:18,280 --> 00:20:21,240
Blessed be St Enodoc,
blessed be the wave...
315
00:20:21,240 --> 00:20:28,280
I read it at my mother's funeral
recently. She and my father were
dear friends of John's for ever.
316
00:20:28,280 --> 00:20:30,240
And reading that last verse,
317
00:20:30,240 --> 00:20:34,320
"Give to our children the happy
times that you gave to Ralph,
318
00:20:34,320 --> 00:20:36,720
"Vasey, Alastair, Biddy,
John and me,"
319
00:20:36,720 --> 00:20:40,320
really makes you choke because we've
had beautiful times.
320
00:20:40,320 --> 00:20:44,640
We've done the same things with the
crabbing, the prawning,
looking for cowries.
321
00:20:44,640 --> 00:20:49,040
It's just handed down
from generation to generation.
322
00:20:49,040 --> 00:20:53,920
Do you think people still look for
cowries, and blue and green glass?
323
00:20:53,920 --> 00:20:58,680
Oh, you know about the blue glass.
I was going to tell you about that!
324
00:20:58,680 --> 00:21:03,640
And it's extraordinary how long
one would spend on the beach
325
00:21:03,640 --> 00:21:06,040
and the hoorahs,
and how clever you were
326
00:21:06,040 --> 00:21:07,880
if you found this tiny speck.
327
00:21:07,880 --> 00:21:10,880
I imagine it was milk of magnesia...
328
00:21:10,880 --> 00:21:14,920
Bottles. Bottles. But sometimes
it was those glass buoys.
329
00:21:14,920 --> 00:21:19,200
There were blue ones
but they were very rare.
They were magic on the tide line.
330
00:21:19,200 --> 00:21:25,160
That was gold-dust going along there
and finding one, and you really
were a hero for a week.
331
00:21:25,160 --> 00:21:28,560
Now, all you get is plastic
which John hated.
332
00:21:30,080 --> 00:21:34,720
As long as I can remember,
I have come down on to one beach
333
00:21:34,720 --> 00:21:39,120
to look for cowries,
which are very small shells.
334
00:21:39,120 --> 00:21:44,040
And I know just where to find them
on the tide line.
335
00:21:44,040 --> 00:21:47,800
The shells themselves
are coloured pale pink.
336
00:21:49,480 --> 00:21:51,880
The large shells
we hardly notice at all.
337
00:21:51,880 --> 00:21:55,280
We weren't interested in them.
Always looking for the small ones.
338
00:21:55,280 --> 00:22:02,200
And some of the larger cowries that
you find have got freckles on them,
339
00:22:02,200 --> 00:22:06,480
just like
the nose of a tennis girl.
340
00:22:06,480 --> 00:22:10,280
What was he like? He was so
341
00:22:06,480 --> 00:22:10,280
different from anything I'd ever met.
342
00:22:10,280 --> 00:22:14,720
I think I was really conscious of
him, in person, when I was 10.
343
00:22:14,720 --> 00:22:18,600
He came to stay with us
when we were in Bath.
344
00:22:18,600 --> 00:22:21,080
I grew up in a very
345
00:22:21,080 --> 00:22:23,720
well-organised, disciplined,
naval family,
346
00:22:23,720 --> 00:22:26,280
and everything was on time,
and everything.
347
00:22:26,280 --> 00:22:30,240
John appeared and he burst
out of his bedroom before
348
00:22:30,240 --> 00:22:34,440
he went to change and said,
"Sheila, I've forgotten
the bottom of my pyjamas!"
349
00:22:34,440 --> 00:22:36,680
That was the first thing.
350
00:22:36,680 --> 00:22:39,720
Then he had just got an
electric razor,
351
00:22:39,720 --> 00:22:42,560
he bought the razor and not the plug!
352
00:22:42,560 --> 00:22:46,760
He always had his trousers
done up with the tie.
353
00:22:46,760 --> 00:22:48,760
He never had a belt. Why?
354
00:22:48,760 --> 00:22:52,240
I don't know. He was obviously
eccentric in those days.
355
00:22:52,240 --> 00:22:57,320
He was gorgeous. He had the best
chuckle I've ever heard in anybody.
356
00:22:57,320 --> 00:23:00,920
When he had a mild stroke in London
we went to see him.
357
00:23:00,920 --> 00:23:05,120
You know when you take people a gift,
and we didn't know what to take him
358
00:23:05,120 --> 00:23:07,880
because we didn't know
how bad the stroke was.
359
00:23:07,880 --> 00:23:11,120
Do you know what we took him?
A bag of beach.
360
00:23:11,120 --> 00:23:14,360
We filled a polythene bag
of Daymer Bay sand,
361
00:23:14,360 --> 00:23:17,680
and we put it on the bed
and his hand came out
362
00:23:17,680 --> 00:23:21,000
and he knew what his bag of beach
was. I bet he did.
363
00:23:28,320 --> 00:23:31,680
Blessed be St Enodoc,
blessed be the wave.
364
00:23:31,680 --> 00:23:35,720
Blessed be the springy turf,
we pray, pray to thee,
365
00:23:35,720 --> 00:23:39,000
ask for our children
all the happy days you gave
366
00:23:39,000 --> 00:23:42,400
to Ralph, Vasey,
Alistair, Biddy, John and me.
367
00:23:50,480 --> 00:23:53,440
By the end of this programme,
I would like to think
368
00:23:53,440 --> 00:24:00,680
I know enough about Sir John
to produce the sort of celebratory
centenary meal he loved to eat.
369
00:24:00,680 --> 00:24:03,240
I am pretty certain
he'd like oysters.
370
00:24:03,240 --> 00:24:07,920
I certainly know
he's got a penchant for champagne.
371
00:24:07,920 --> 00:24:11,240
I've heard he likes Dover sole
cooked very simply,
372
00:24:11,240 --> 00:24:13,400
it's called sole bon femme,
373
00:24:13,400 --> 00:24:19,720
which means baked in the oven in the
style of the good wife of the house.
374
00:24:19,720 --> 00:24:22,720
I don't know whether that
is quite upmarket enough
375
00:24:22,720 --> 00:24:24,680
for this dinner for all his friends.
376
00:24:24,680 --> 00:24:27,600
But on the other hand,
if I make it too upmarket,
377
00:24:27,600 --> 00:24:29,080
it will be too elaborate
378
00:24:29,080 --> 00:24:32,320
and it won't reflect
the simplicity of his poetry.
379
00:24:32,320 --> 00:24:36,760
It is difficult
380
00:24:32,320 --> 00:24:36,760
but I think probably Dover sole,
381
00:24:36,760 --> 00:24:40,280
turbot or lobster has got
to feature in it,
382
00:24:40,280 --> 00:24:43,000
and certainly nothing like a jus.
383
00:24:43,000 --> 00:24:46,480
I just imagine what he
would think of that word.
384
00:24:46,480 --> 00:24:49,600
Or indeed a pyramid of
385
00:24:49,600 --> 00:24:52,080
elaborate food on a plate.
386
00:24:55,080 --> 00:24:58,840
It doesn't get more Cornish - splits
and jam and clotted cream.
387
00:24:58,840 --> 00:25:01,000
Splits - they are not scones.
388
00:25:01,000 --> 00:25:06,600
They're the crowning glory
of the Cornish cream tea -
389
00:25:01,000 --> 00:25:06,600
especially for those in the know.
390
00:25:06,600 --> 00:25:12,040
And, of course, the tea,
Lapsang Souchong, Earl Grey - nah.
391
00:25:12,040 --> 00:25:15,440
I'd like to think that JB was a
plain Typhoo man.
392
00:25:16,960 --> 00:25:20,000
Sweet were the afternoons of
treasure hunts
393
00:25:20,000 --> 00:25:25,240
And in the Oakleys' garden after
394
00:25:20,000 --> 00:25:25,240
tea, of splits and cream,
395
00:25:25,240 --> 00:25:30,720
Under old apple boughs with
high tide offering prospects of a
bathe,
396
00:25:30,720 --> 00:25:33,120
the winners had their prizes.
397
00:25:33,120 --> 00:25:37,960
90-year-old Molly Farmer is one
of JB's oldest living friends.
398
00:25:37,960 --> 00:25:40,560
She remembers those
sunny days at Trebetherick.
399
00:25:40,560 --> 00:25:46,000
I do remember my aunts
were not very happy about the whole
thing,
400
00:25:46,000 --> 00:25:50,520
because John was
making people come to Trebetherick
401
00:25:50,520 --> 00:25:55,160
and my aunts didn't really like
all these people coming.
402
00:25:55,160 --> 00:25:57,120
What? His friends or...
403
00:25:57,120 --> 00:25:59,440
No, these were tourists.
404
00:25:59,440 --> 00:26:03,320
Oh, I see.
405
00:26:03,320 --> 00:26:07,840
Oh, yes.
That really was the beginning of
406
00:26:07,840 --> 00:26:10,200
John's poetry.
407
00:26:10,200 --> 00:26:18,120
He wrote about Trebetherick and all
these different places, Polzeath and
408
00:26:10,200 --> 00:26:18,120
Padstow.
409
00:26:18,120 --> 00:26:21,000
And that is what bought
the people down.
410
00:26:21,000 --> 00:26:23,520
Good Lord, it's like me
with my restaurants.
411
00:26:23,520 --> 00:26:26,760
I was going to say that.
Two of a kind, really.
412
00:26:28,440 --> 00:26:34,400
But, with John, I would think
he wouldn't even think of that.
Course not.
413
00:26:34,400 --> 00:26:41,680
I don't know anything so exciting as
getting a perfect surf.
414
00:26:44,280 --> 00:26:47,320
Timing one's shoot-off
415
00:26:47,320 --> 00:26:48,960
from the waves.
416
00:26:50,480 --> 00:26:52,600
Riding along on the crest
417
00:26:52,600 --> 00:26:55,200
and coming far inshore.
418
00:26:59,200 --> 00:27:02,880
By Jove!
That bald-headed fellow - it's me!
419
00:27:05,040 --> 00:27:08,520
He used to come and have
picnics with us on the beach.
420
00:27:08,520 --> 00:27:11,680
He said the only time he got a
good meal was when I came down
421
00:27:11,680 --> 00:27:18,840
and we would sit on the beach and he
would come down in his raincoat,
done up with string,
422
00:27:18,840 --> 00:27:21,000
because he wouldn't
sew the buttons on.
423
00:27:21,000 --> 00:27:24,000
He made himself look like an old man
424
00:27:24,000 --> 00:27:32,760
and my youngest son once came up
to me and said, "Is he so poor
he can't put the buttons on?"
425
00:27:32,760 --> 00:27:34,800
"Can't you put them on?"
426
00:27:34,800 --> 00:27:40,400
I said, "No, the point of him being
like that is so people don't come
up and ask for his autograph."
427
00:27:40,400 --> 00:27:45,000
Even when he was surfing at Polzeath,
428
00:27:45,000 --> 00:27:48,440
people would wade into the water
to get his autograph!
429
00:27:48,440 --> 00:27:51,200
I know. I am that soldier.
430
00:27:51,200 --> 00:27:53,680
Do you have that too? Yeah.
431
00:27:56,640 --> 00:28:01,480
The old harbour at Padstow had
walls of slate and the slippery
432
00:27:56,640 --> 00:28:01,480
quay,
433
00:28:01,480 --> 00:28:06,800
made of upended slates, felt warm
and smooth to feet that were bare.
434
00:28:06,800 --> 00:28:11,080
And then the streets of Padstow
closed around us.
435
00:28:11,080 --> 00:28:16,960
That old house on the quay
I always thought must once
436
00:28:11,080 --> 00:28:16,960
have been a monastery.
437
00:28:21,720 --> 00:28:25,360
The narrow streets of the
fishing town were emptier then,
438
00:28:29,680 --> 00:28:32,520
but they are still
very much the same.
439
00:28:32,520 --> 00:28:37,000
Though the shops were more resorted
to in our day for useful things,
440
00:28:37,000 --> 00:28:42,960
for oil-lit houses, rather than for
441
00:28:37,000 --> 00:28:42,960
the souvenirs which fill them today.
442
00:28:42,960 --> 00:28:47,520
The popularity of
Padstow lies within itself.
443
00:28:47,520 --> 00:28:53,720
It doesn't need John Betjeman
or me, for that matter,
to sing its praises.
444
00:28:55,320 --> 00:28:59,760
I was quite surprised to hear John
Betjeman had got it in the neck
445
00:28:59,760 --> 00:29:04,600
from his Cornish friends and
446
00:28:59,760 --> 00:29:04,600
associates that he was popularising
the place too much.
447
00:29:04,600 --> 00:29:09,880
I was also delighted because I had a
feeling of affinity with him.
448
00:29:09,880 --> 00:29:15,040
The more I get to know about
John Betjeman, the more I feel close
to him,
449
00:29:15,040 --> 00:29:18,440
because people keep going on about
"Padstein",
450
00:29:18,440 --> 00:29:22,840
because I've got a few
modest businesses here.
451
00:29:22,840 --> 00:29:27,120
I find it quite embarrassing.
I think the same thing's happened.
452
00:29:27,120 --> 00:29:34,120
All that John Betjeman did was to
talk about a place he loved and that
453
00:29:27,120 --> 00:29:34,120
is exactly what I've done.
454
00:29:34,120 --> 00:29:39,080
I feel a bit confounded by people
that say, "Oh, you made the place
too popular."
455
00:29:39,080 --> 00:29:41,080
You think, what should I do?
456
00:29:41,080 --> 00:29:45,200
Just say, it's a terrible place,
457
00:29:41,080 --> 00:29:45,200
don't come here?!
458
00:29:50,120 --> 00:29:54,560
Much as I'd have you believe that
every day's sunny in Cornwall,
of course, it's not.
459
00:29:54,560 --> 00:29:59,440
It's often like this, where there's
an awful lot of people on holiday
460
00:29:59,440 --> 00:30:01,800
rather bored with not a lot to do.
461
00:30:01,800 --> 00:30:06,240
And, as ever,
John Betjeman summed it up perfectly.
462
00:30:09,000 --> 00:30:11,960
All put your macs on,
run for shelter fast.
463
00:30:11,960 --> 00:30:14,840
Crouch where you like
until it's fine again.
464
00:30:14,840 --> 00:30:18,000
Holiday cheerfulness is unsurpassed.
465
00:30:18,000 --> 00:30:21,760
Why be put out
by healthy English rain?
466
00:30:21,760 --> 00:30:23,720
Are we downhearted?
467
00:30:23,720 --> 00:30:31,080
No! We're happy still. We came here
to enjoy ourselves, and we will.
468
00:30:31,080 --> 00:30:37,120
"Our lodging house, 10 minutes from
the shore, still unprepared to make a
469
00:30:31,080 --> 00:30:37,120
picnic lunch,
470
00:30:37,120 --> 00:30:41,200
except by notice on the
previous day." It's still the same.
471
00:30:41,200 --> 00:30:46,320
"And still on the bedroom wall, the
list of rules. Don't waste the water.
472
00:30:46,320 --> 00:30:51,200
"It is pumped by hand. Don't
throw old blades into the WC.
473
00:30:51,200 --> 00:30:53,480
"Don't keep the bathroom long.
474
00:30:53,480 --> 00:30:57,880
"And don't be late for meals. And
don't hang swimsuits on the sills.
475
00:30:57,880 --> 00:31:01,000
"A line has been provided at the
back.
476
00:31:01,000 --> 00:31:04,360
"Don't empty children's
sandshoes in the hall.
477
00:31:04,360 --> 00:31:06,560
"Don't this, don't that."
478
00:31:06,560 --> 00:31:12,680
"Ah, still the same, the same as it
was last year and the year before.
479
00:31:12,680 --> 00:31:16,840
"But rather more expensive now,
of course."
480
00:31:16,840 --> 00:31:20,640
Queues for the cafes,
and the seafront's bleak.
481
00:31:20,640 --> 00:31:23,120
Go to the pictures then.
482
00:31:23,120 --> 00:31:28,840
I'm not complaining, but didn't
I see that film the other week?
483
00:31:28,840 --> 00:31:31,640
As for our lodgings,
we're in quite a fix.
484
00:31:31,640 --> 00:31:34,960
They never want us back
till after six.
485
00:31:40,440 --> 00:31:46,000
What people really came to Cornwall
for was picturesque villages.
486
00:31:46,000 --> 00:31:49,120
Cornwall became an artists'
paradise.
487
00:31:49,120 --> 00:31:52,080
And the amateur
photographers' as well.
488
00:31:55,400 --> 00:32:01,560
The shrewd Cornish - independent,
proud - cash in on the foreigners,
489
00:32:01,560 --> 00:32:03,600
and small blame to them.
490
00:32:03,600 --> 00:32:06,040
Plenty of car parks on the way to
the quay
491
00:32:06,040 --> 00:32:09,280
and plenty of gift shops on the way
to the car parks.
492
00:32:09,280 --> 00:32:13,440
It's economics, see.
493
00:32:13,440 --> 00:32:17,040
Even in JB's time, holidaymakers
would wander the harbour
494
00:32:17,040 --> 00:32:21,560
eating something that predates
the pizza and the hamburger.
495
00:32:21,560 --> 00:32:26,440
I suppose you could call this the
culinary symbol of Cornwall
- a Cornish pasty.
496
00:32:26,440 --> 00:32:32,040
Always should be eaten out
of a paper bag. Never with a knife
and fork on a plate.
497
00:32:32,040 --> 00:32:36,600
And I think Sir John would agree
with me on that one. Very non-U.
498
00:32:36,600 --> 00:32:42,080
Other interesting thing about
the Cornish pasty is that over
499
00:32:36,600 --> 00:32:42,080
here in Padstow, it's pasty.
500
00:32:42,080 --> 00:32:46,360
Over there, with the more well-to-do
types in Rock, it's par-sty.
501
00:32:46,360 --> 00:32:49,040
It's amazing what a
bit of water can do.
502
00:32:49,040 --> 00:32:52,160
Pasty here, par-sty there.
503
00:32:57,200 --> 00:33:01,160
For five months of the year, Padstow
is as packed as its rubbish bins.
504
00:33:01,160 --> 00:33:05,880
JB yearned for the days
of sanity to return.
505
00:33:08,920 --> 00:33:13,120
I'm glad it's quiet again
and I'm on foot.
506
00:33:13,120 --> 00:33:20,400
You know that sort of holy hush
there is in the land on Christmas
507
00:33:13,120 --> 00:33:20,400
morning, the roads fairly empty,
508
00:33:20,400 --> 00:33:28,240
the sky almost free of aeroplanes,
and you begin to hear and
see and smell once more?
509
00:33:28,240 --> 00:33:34,720
The seaside can be like this if
you find an unspoilt stretch of it.
510
00:33:34,720 --> 00:33:41,480
We don't all want to be organised
but, if we aren't, we seem
to sprawl everywhere.
511
00:33:41,480 --> 00:33:46,760
Where yonder villa hogs the sea
was open cliff to you and me.
512
00:33:46,760 --> 00:33:51,240
The many-coloured caras fill
the salty marsh to Shiller Mill
513
00:33:51,240 --> 00:33:56,760
and, foreground to the hanging wood,
are toilets where the cattle stood.
514
00:33:56,760 --> 00:34:02,840
Now, as we near the ocean roar, a
smell of deep fry haunts the shore.
515
00:34:02,840 --> 00:34:08,920
In pools beyond the reach of tide,
the Senior Service packets glide.
516
00:34:08,920 --> 00:34:16,480
And, on the sand,
the surf line lists
517
00:34:08,920 --> 00:34:16,480
with wrappings of potato crisps.
518
00:34:16,480 --> 00:34:19,480
The breakers bring, with merry
noise,
519
00:34:19,480 --> 00:34:22,320
tribute of broken plastic toys
520
00:34:22,320 --> 00:34:28,840
and lichen spears of blackthorn
glitter with harvest of
the August litter.
521
00:34:28,840 --> 00:34:36,160
The next bit is, like, easily
his most controversial poem, Come
Friendly Bombs And Fall On Slough.
522
00:34:36,160 --> 00:34:39,880
JB was not a fan of caravan sites.
523
00:34:39,880 --> 00:34:48,400
Perhaps, one day, a wave will break,
before the breakfasters awake,
and sweep the caras out to sea,
524
00:34:48,400 --> 00:34:57,720
the oil, the tar and you and me, and
leave, in windy crisscross motion,
525
00:34:48,400 --> 00:34:57,720
a waste of undulating ocean.
526
00:35:00,920 --> 00:35:03,440
Out there, it's solitude.
527
00:35:05,440 --> 00:35:07,160
They can't build on the sea.
528
00:35:10,640 --> 00:35:16,400
Jonathan Stedall is a documentary
film maker who made many remarkable
529
00:35:10,640 --> 00:35:16,400
programmes with Sir John,
530
00:35:16,400 --> 00:35:22,160
including a film adaptation
531
00:35:16,400 --> 00:35:22,160
of his verse autobiography, Summoned
By Bells,
532
00:35:22,160 --> 00:35:28,200
and the intimate Time With Betjeman,
the last film he did
before he died in 1984.
533
00:35:28,200 --> 00:35:35,120
What started as a
534
00:35:28,200 --> 00:35:35,120
stimulating working relationship
developed into a strong friendship.
535
00:35:35,120 --> 00:35:37,600
What happened here?
536
00:35:37,600 --> 00:35:41,400
This was one of the last
sequences I filmed with him.
537
00:35:41,400 --> 00:35:46,320
It was about two years before he
died and he was in a wheelchair
538
00:35:41,400 --> 00:35:46,320
by then, so I was pushing him.
539
00:35:46,320 --> 00:35:48,120
And we came here
540
00:35:48,120 --> 00:35:50,480
and we were talking
about various things.
541
00:35:50,480 --> 00:35:52,760
It was quite a deep conversation.
542
00:35:52,760 --> 00:35:55,040
He was talking about eternity
543
00:35:55,040 --> 00:35:58,360
and I was
probing in that kind of area.
544
00:35:58,360 --> 00:36:05,000
And then I saw a sort of little
glisten in his eye and he clearly
wanted to change the subject.
545
00:36:05,000 --> 00:36:09,560
He had a tendency, when things were
getting too earnest, to want to
lighten things.
546
00:36:09,560 --> 00:36:13,480
And I said to him, "Do you have any
regrets in your life?"
547
00:36:13,480 --> 00:36:16,400
That was when he made this famous
remark.
548
00:36:16,400 --> 00:36:24,000
John, have you got any regrets about
your life at all? Yes.
549
00:36:24,000 --> 00:36:26,400
What you've done or haven't done?
550
00:36:24,000 --> 00:36:26,400
Yes.
551
00:36:26,400 --> 00:36:28,600
I haven't had enough sex.
552
00:36:30,840 --> 00:36:34,440
That, I suppose,
I'm not allowed to say.
553
00:36:34,440 --> 00:36:38,840
And that's the remark
that people remember almost best
from the whole series.
554
00:36:38,840 --> 00:36:42,120
There's a wonderful line
in Summoned By Bells.
555
00:36:42,120 --> 00:36:45,680
He's talking about himself.
"An only child,
556
00:36:45,680 --> 00:36:50,640
deliciously apart, misunderstood
and not like other boys."
557
00:36:50,640 --> 00:36:52,320
Fantastic.
558
00:36:52,320 --> 00:36:59,200
I think that "deliciously apart"
is a wonderful phrase because,
actually, he's not really moaning.
559
00:36:59,200 --> 00:37:02,640
There's a side in him that's
relishing this being an outsider.
560
00:37:02,640 --> 00:37:04,480
Crikey, I've trod on your dog!
561
00:37:06,000 --> 00:37:07,880
I'm sorry.
562
00:37:07,880 --> 00:37:10,800
I'm afraid Betjeman
wasn't too fond of dogs.
563
00:37:10,800 --> 00:37:14,160
He had an expression for them.
He called them "turd droppers".
564
00:37:14,160 --> 00:37:16,200
Oh, that's a shame.
565
00:37:16,200 --> 00:37:19,240
He loved the whole
process of filming, you see.
566
00:37:19,240 --> 00:37:23,480
He liked being in a team.
He was interested in people,
interested in the crew.
567
00:37:23,480 --> 00:37:25,920
He loved the jargon. Did he?
568
00:37:25,920 --> 00:37:27,960
Well, all the funny expressions.
569
00:37:27,960 --> 00:37:29,800
What, like "fly in the gate"?
570
00:37:29,800 --> 00:37:32,400
Hair in the gate.
571
00:37:29,800 --> 00:37:32,400
Oh, God! I always think it's fly.
572
00:37:32,400 --> 00:37:34,480
I don't know why.
573
00:37:34,480 --> 00:37:36,600
And the names for the lights.
574
00:37:36,600 --> 00:37:41,240
You know, they're called brutes
and red heads and blondies.
Oh, he would have loved that.
575
00:37:41,240 --> 00:37:44,360
And then there's a thing that
can happen in the cutting room
576
00:37:44,360 --> 00:37:47,360
when the camera and the sound
get out of sync -
577
00:37:47,360 --> 00:37:50,240
"creeping sync".
And he loved the expression.
578
00:37:50,240 --> 00:37:52,880
He didn't understand
what creeping sync was.
579
00:37:52,880 --> 00:37:54,920
It sounds like some
horrible disease.
580
00:37:56,440 --> 00:37:59,040
No, he was lovely to work with.
581
00:37:59,040 --> 00:38:02,160
He was interested in everybody.
582
00:38:03,680 --> 00:38:06,720
I think that was the
key to it, really.
583
00:38:06,720 --> 00:38:11,040
Of course, there are some people
who felt that he should have...
584
00:38:11,040 --> 00:38:15,280
By doing so much television,
that his poetry suffered
585
00:38:15,280 --> 00:38:18,600
and that he should have just
concentrated on poetry.
586
00:38:18,600 --> 00:38:23,960
You know, I think that he brought
a kind of poetry, in the wider sense,
587
00:38:23,960 --> 00:38:27,560
to many, many more
people by doing what he did.
588
00:38:27,560 --> 00:38:29,600
His films are like poems.
589
00:38:29,600 --> 00:38:32,440
Some he actually
wrote the commentary in verse.
590
00:38:32,440 --> 00:38:34,560
But even if he didn't,
591
00:38:34,560 --> 00:38:37,680
there is a sort of poetry
in the work that he did.
592
00:38:39,240 --> 00:38:47,320
Then, before breakfast,
down towards the sea I ran alone,
monarch of miles of sand.
593
00:38:47,320 --> 00:38:52,240
Its shining stretches
satin smooth and veined.
594
00:38:52,240 --> 00:38:58,720
I felt beneath bare feet the lugworm
casts and walked where only gulls
595
00:38:58,720 --> 00:39:03,560
and oystercatchers had stepped
before me to the water's edge.
596
00:39:10,400 --> 00:39:14,520
Well, it's time to put all
I've learnt about the great man to
the test
597
00:39:14,520 --> 00:39:17,320
and cook a meal
that he would have approved of.
598
00:39:17,320 --> 00:39:19,200
And why not fish pie?
599
00:39:19,200 --> 00:39:23,640
For one thing, it's simple fare
but it's not simply won.
600
00:39:23,640 --> 00:39:27,800
I thought it fitting that I'd
use local fish from trawlers
601
00:39:27,800 --> 00:39:31,600
that JB might have walked by
as they tied up in the harbour.
602
00:39:35,520 --> 00:39:40,840
I searched and searched but
Betjeman didn't write a poem
603
00:39:35,520 --> 00:39:40,840
about fishing in Cornwall.
604
00:39:40,840 --> 00:39:43,760
Pity, really.
605
00:39:43,760 --> 00:39:48,320
So what I'm using, in this rather
special, luxury version of the fish
606
00:39:43,760 --> 00:39:48,320
pie,
607
00:39:48,320 --> 00:39:52,720
is lightly smoked
Cornish haddock and fresh cod.
608
00:39:52,720 --> 00:39:56,720
I'm going to poach them in
milk and Cornish cream,
609
00:39:56,720 --> 00:40:00,720
flavoured with onions studded with
cloves and bay leaves.
610
00:40:00,720 --> 00:40:07,040
I've only allowed about 10 minutes
for that simmering because the
fish has to be only just cooked.
611
00:40:07,040 --> 00:40:11,960
Just enough so it flakes away
from the skin and bones easily.
612
00:40:11,960 --> 00:40:16,440
While that's cooling, I'm going
to make the classic Bechamel sauce
with butter -
613
00:40:16,440 --> 00:40:18,960
one of the first things
I was taught to cook.
614
00:40:18,960 --> 00:40:24,360
Loads of butter,
plain flour, stirred and cooked out
to make a classic roux.
615
00:40:24,360 --> 00:40:26,920
Then I add the poaching liquor.
616
00:40:29,480 --> 00:40:32,360
I was thinking about
Bechamel sauces and veloutes.
617
00:40:32,360 --> 00:40:37,560
I love making them. I love stirring
like this to get rid of those lumps.
618
00:40:37,560 --> 00:40:44,000
I've made veloutes ever since I was
18 in large kitchens
in big quantities.
619
00:40:44,000 --> 00:40:50,920
So making a fish pie like this for
eight to 10 people
is right up my street.
620
00:40:50,920 --> 00:40:56,280
You just have to add the milk and
cream in a few batches
otherwise it separates.
621
00:40:56,280 --> 00:41:00,120
And you have to keep stirring
to keep those lumps out the way.
622
00:41:00,120 --> 00:41:07,040
Next I season the sauce
623
00:41:00,120 --> 00:41:07,040
with grated nutmeg, black pepper
624
00:41:00,120 --> 00:41:07,040
and flakes of sea salt.
625
00:41:07,040 --> 00:41:12,880
Now I did say right at the start
that this is a luxury fish pie
626
00:41:07,040 --> 00:41:12,880
and not the school-dinner version.
627
00:41:12,880 --> 00:41:14,920
Lobster for this special occasion.
628
00:41:14,920 --> 00:41:20,000
It has to be firm, sweet chunks of
freshly cooked Cornish lobster.
629
00:41:20,000 --> 00:41:22,840
Look at that.
This is my idea of luxury.
630
00:41:22,840 --> 00:41:26,080
This is real seaside holiday food.
631
00:41:26,080 --> 00:41:28,240
Now for the assembly.
632
00:41:28,240 --> 00:41:33,120
JB wrote a poem about food as
experienced by a town clerk.
633
00:41:33,120 --> 00:41:36,320
He says, "I can safely say
a beautiful England's on the way.
634
00:41:36,320 --> 00:41:39,120
"Already our hotels are pretty good.
635
00:41:39,120 --> 00:41:43,480
"For those who are fond
of very simple food.
636
00:41:43,480 --> 00:41:47,600
"Well, cod and two veg, free
pepper, salt and mustard,
637
00:41:47,600 --> 00:41:51,160
followed by
nice hard plums and lumpy custard."
638
00:41:51,160 --> 00:41:53,400
Well, lumpy custard this is not.
639
00:41:53,400 --> 00:41:55,320
It's creamy mashed spuds enriched
640
00:41:55,320 --> 00:41:59,440
with the yolks of free-range eggs
and hard-boiled eggs to go into
641
00:41:55,320 --> 00:41:59,440
the pie.
642
00:41:59,440 --> 00:42:06,320
A fish pie, in my view,
643
00:41:59,440 --> 00:42:06,320
isn't right without the addition
of hard-boiled eggs.
644
00:42:06,320 --> 00:42:12,960
Now put the mashed potatoes on top
and then, using the tines of a fork,
645
00:42:06,320 --> 00:42:12,960
plough a pattern.
646
00:42:12,960 --> 00:42:14,960
It's ready for the oven.
647
00:42:14,960 --> 00:42:21,320
Medium to high for 35 minutes
until it's golden brown.
648
00:42:21,320 --> 00:42:24,240
I think it's the sort of thing that
649
00:42:24,240 --> 00:42:26,400
JB would like.
650
00:42:26,400 --> 00:42:32,920
It's wholesome, British, but I'm
just gonna try a bit to make sure
651
00:42:32,920 --> 00:42:36,520
those real lovers of everything to
do with Betjeman are gonna eat it.
652
00:42:36,520 --> 00:42:38,560
It's a little bit hot.
653
00:42:42,640 --> 00:42:44,760
That's very nice.
654
00:42:44,760 --> 00:42:47,880
I'm sorry to praise my own food
but I was just thinking,
655
00:42:47,880 --> 00:42:52,480
I know Sir John was
talking about St Enodoc golf course
656
00:42:52,480 --> 00:42:55,200
and Daymer Bay and the estuary
beyond, when he said,
657
00:42:55,200 --> 00:42:57,640
"Splendour, splendour everywhere".
658
00:42:57,640 --> 00:43:01,760
But this is my splendour,
splendour everywhere.
659
00:43:01,760 --> 00:43:03,640
Here we go. Isn't that wonderful.
660
00:43:03,640 --> 00:43:05,520
This is where I drop the pie.
661
00:43:07,320 --> 00:43:11,080
It wouldn't be the first time.
I think we should clap.
662
00:43:11,080 --> 00:43:12,720
This is the main course.
663
00:43:12,720 --> 00:43:16,280
I started with a fruits de mer of
Cornish shellfish -
664
00:43:16,280 --> 00:43:20,920
langoustines, brown crab,
razor clams, mussels and oysters.
665
00:43:20,920 --> 00:43:25,560
And the guest of honour
was Candida Lycett Green,
John Betjeman's daughter.
666
00:43:25,560 --> 00:43:29,240
In fact, it was her idea for us to
have this lunch in the first place.
667
00:43:29,240 --> 00:43:32,960
Now what do you
serve with a fish pie?
668
00:43:32,960 --> 00:43:38,040
In my book, you have to have peas
and nothing wrong with frozen
either.
669
00:43:38,040 --> 00:43:41,400
I think he would have approved
because he loved the ordinary.
670
00:43:41,400 --> 00:43:44,160
He saw the world a different way.
671
00:43:44,160 --> 00:43:48,200
We were very lucky, he came and
gave the speech at our wedding.
672
00:43:48,200 --> 00:43:51,640
We were all expecting
great things from this poet.
673
00:43:51,640 --> 00:43:57,400
We hadn't arranged for a platform
so we gave him an old garden bench,
which unfortunately was too old,
674
00:43:57,400 --> 00:44:01,320
and he stood up and we all waiting
with bated breath and he said,
675
00:44:01,320 --> 00:44:04,520
"To the handsome Christopher and the
beautiful Susan",
676
00:44:04,520 --> 00:44:08,040
and disappeared down through
the slats of the garden bench.
677
00:44:08,040 --> 00:44:10,080
He'd had a little
bit too much to drink.
678
00:44:10,080 --> 00:44:15,120
Luckily, he was retrieved by the
stewards at the naval establishment
679
00:44:10,080 --> 00:44:15,120
and went his way.
680
00:44:15,120 --> 00:44:16,760
I'm afraid that was his speech.
681
00:44:16,760 --> 00:44:21,080
Cliff, I just got a feeling he lit
up your life really.
682
00:44:21,080 --> 00:44:28,400
Absolutely. I've been
privileged to read his poems for 20
years to the public on Bray Hill.
683
00:44:28,400 --> 00:44:32,960
I just love that wonderful
cast of characters.
684
00:44:32,960 --> 00:44:38,080
There's a whole era captured
in the poetry - the '30s and '40s.
685
00:44:38,080 --> 00:44:40,080
It's all there, wonderful stuff.
686
00:44:40,080 --> 00:44:42,760
The only first line I can
think of immediately is
687
00:44:42,760 --> 00:44:46,040
How To Get On In Society - "Phone
for the fish knives, Norman,
688
00:44:46,040 --> 00:44:47,880
"as Cook is a little unnerved.
689
00:44:47,880 --> 00:44:50,520
"You kiddies have crumpled
the serviettes
690
00:44:50,520 --> 00:44:53,000
"And I must have things daintily
served.
691
00:44:53,000 --> 00:44:56,400
"Are the requisites
all in the toilet?
692
00:44:56,400 --> 00:44:58,480
"The rings round the cutlets can wait
693
00:44:58,480 --> 00:45:00,880
"Till the Major's replenished
the cruets
694
00:45:00,880 --> 00:45:03,040
"And switched on
the logs in the grate."
695
00:45:03,040 --> 00:45:05,280
Isn't it wonderful stuff?
696
00:45:05,280 --> 00:45:09,000
Why do you think people
find him trite?
697
00:45:09,000 --> 00:45:13,000
There's always this, "Oh,
698
00:45:09,000 --> 00:45:13,000
you like John Betjeman, do you?"
699
00:45:13,000 --> 00:45:19,720
That's simply because it's too easy
to like and modern poets are
quite complicated.
700
00:45:19,720 --> 00:45:25,120
Some of them are wonderful,
but they have a different way of
communicating
701
00:45:25,120 --> 00:45:29,600
and they don't communicate to
the masses, which my dad does.
702
00:45:34,560 --> 00:45:37,200
I think that's the reason
people say he's trite
703
00:45:37,200 --> 00:45:41,000
and he's not on the school
curriculum because he's not
704
00:45:37,200 --> 00:45:41,000
complicated.
705
00:45:41,000 --> 00:45:43,440
I feel passionately about that.
706
00:45:43,440 --> 00:45:49,000
I think that very
profound and complicated things can
be said very simply, actually.
707
00:45:49,000 --> 00:45:53,680
He was brilliant at that in his
poetry and in his life all together.
708
00:45:53,680 --> 00:45:59,840
There was a favourite phrase of
John's which comes to mind after
709
00:45:53,680 --> 00:45:59,840
this lovely meal.
710
00:45:59,840 --> 00:46:03,640
He used to say,
"Nothing succeeds like excess".
711
00:46:08,880 --> 00:46:14,280
On a wild, wet May afternoon in 1984
a group of pallbearers,
712
00:46:14,280 --> 00:46:17,040
including his friend Jonathan
Stedall
713
00:46:17,040 --> 00:46:21,960
slowly carried JB to his final
resting place in St Enodoc
graveyard.
714
00:46:21,960 --> 00:46:26,080
He would join those who'd helped
make his summers so memorable
715
00:46:26,080 --> 00:46:28,760
and were now immortalised
in his verse.
716
00:46:30,280 --> 00:46:33,240
We had to walk about a
quarter of a mile with the coffin.
717
00:46:33,240 --> 00:46:35,440
We were absolutely soaked.
718
00:46:35,440 --> 00:46:39,560
Somebody said when we came into
the church, we looked like wreckers.
719
00:46:42,920 --> 00:46:44,440
Here it is.
720
00:46:47,960 --> 00:46:51,320
Slightly floral, don't you think?
721
00:46:51,320 --> 00:46:55,600
I think so.
I think he'd have liked it. You do?
722
00:46:55,600 --> 00:46:59,320
Yeah. He was religious, wasn't he?
723
00:46:59,320 --> 00:47:03,800
Yes. Certainly, his religion
was very important to him.
724
00:47:03,800 --> 00:47:08,520
I think, from my experience, he was
also very courageous,
725
00:47:08,520 --> 00:47:12,400
in the sense
that he was able to live with doubt.
726
00:47:12,400 --> 00:47:15,240
Yeah.
727
00:47:15,240 --> 00:47:21,280
He used to refer to what we
call God as "the management".
728
00:47:25,200 --> 00:47:27,080
He said he...
729
00:47:27,080 --> 00:47:31,440
he hoped, rather than believed, that
the management was in charge.
730
00:47:31,440 --> 00:47:35,760
I like to think of him not as
somewhere else and us here,
731
00:47:35,760 --> 00:47:39,160
but that we're actually at one level
all together.
732
00:47:39,160 --> 00:47:41,240
That's my feeling about him.
733
00:47:41,240 --> 00:47:43,920
I just can't help feeling,
with a slight smile,
734
00:47:43,920 --> 00:47:47,120
what do you think John Betjeman
would have to say
735
00:47:47,120 --> 00:47:50,160
when he heard the serious way
we were talking?
736
00:47:50,160 --> 00:47:55,120
I think he'd probably think
it was very funny that I was
737
00:47:50,160 --> 00:47:55,120
being so serious about him.
738
00:47:56,640 --> 00:48:01,200
He'd probably be thinking
it's time to go home.
739
00:48:01,200 --> 00:48:03,200
The poor crew are getting wet.
740
00:48:04,720 --> 00:48:07,440
How nice.
741
00:48:07,440 --> 00:48:09,000
Enough.
742
00:48:11,440 --> 00:48:13,360
It's lovely here.
743
00:48:18,840 --> 00:48:20,360
Finished? Yes.
744
00:48:44,960 --> 00:48:48,080
Subtitles by Red Bee Media Ltd, 2006
745
00:48:48,080 --> 00:48:50,040
E-mail subtitling@bbc.co.uk
104508
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