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There is one special place
where I worked as a young chef
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that has remained
close to my heart...
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Didn't think I'd come to France
and find the Barnsley chop.
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00:00:15,040 --> 00:00:19,760
..and one region in particular that
is full of passionate producers
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00:00:19,760 --> 00:00:21,480
and incredible ingredients.
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This is Provence.
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We are going to be discovering
the secrets of the very best
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and simplest French cooking.
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That is a discovery.
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SHE LAUGHS
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Nice and easy,
simple dinner for one.
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I'll be sharing tips,
tricks and techniques...
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00:00:36,400 --> 00:00:38,160
We've got flavours of Provence.
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00:00:38,160 --> 00:00:39,640
There's sunshine for you.
15
00:00:39,640 --> 00:00:43,200
..and enjoying a bit of
friendly rivalry along the way...
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That was close!
I'm a little nervous.
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00:00:45,200 --> 00:00:46,760
THEY LAUGH
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I knew I wouldn't be able
to fool them. Yes!
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00:00:49,200 --> 00:00:50,960
THEY ALL LAUGH
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00:00:50,960 --> 00:00:54,640
..all in the name of bringing you
a simple taste of Provence.
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00:01:02,280 --> 00:01:03,880
This is Lourmarin,
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where every Tuesday, this unassuming
car park is taken over
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by the farmers' market.
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Bonjour. Bonjour, bonjour.
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00:01:12,280 --> 00:01:14,360
Drawing people
from all over the region,
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there's a real sense of occasion -
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and each week, a local French chef
impresses the crowd
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with a live cooking demo.
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Fun!
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However, I've been told a
British chef is cooking tonight,
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and that chef...
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..is me.
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I've been properly stitched up,
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but I do love a challenge,
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so I'm going to seek out the
best ingredients I can find
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to wow the masses -
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but first I've got to work out
what to cook.
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I grow these in my own garden,
so these I do love.
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Beautiful figs.
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These are really plump and fat.
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Delicious.
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What's just really great is,
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it's so fresh, so deliciously local.
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The produce is so good,
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you don't really need
to do a great deal to it.
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Sounds easy - but for a British chef
looking to impress the French,
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I've got a lot to prove.
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Hi. Enchante. Marcus.
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00:02:09,480 --> 00:02:11,080
Nice to meet you. Nice to meet you.
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Pauline is a local who loves all
things food and works at the market,
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so I'm hoping for some insider tips.
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Looking for food in Provence,
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this is the picture that I was
expecting... OK. ..to see.
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You've got meat, you've got bread,
you've got fruit. And cheese.
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And cheese, of course, of course.
You've got to have some cheese.
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It's beautiful. So what do you think
the locals will think
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of an English chef cooking?
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00:02:33,480 --> 00:02:38,880
I think in France, the English food
is not very, erm...
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Reputation's not good?
Yeah, yeah. Yes!
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SHE LAUGHS
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00:02:41,440 --> 00:02:43,440
Here we go.
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00:02:43,440 --> 00:02:46,040
She's not exactly filling me
with confidence,
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but she's obviously taken pity on me
because she's given me a tip-off
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for an ingredient that could
be the secret
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to winning over the locals later...
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Bonjour. Hello.
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..Porc du Ventoux.
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Look at this, little buffet.
Is this for me?
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Yes. That's right!
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L'echine de porc sechee.
Ca c'est de l'echine de porc sechee.
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What cut is this?
The shin of pork, the shin. Ah, yes.
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Wow. It's tasty, no? Oh, wow. Yeah.
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Mm-hm. That is good.
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00:03:13,640 --> 00:03:16,200
I'm definitely thinking pork
is the way to go
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when I cook en masse
for these discerning locals.
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00:03:19,160 --> 00:03:22,120
A love of this delicious
economic meat
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is something us Brits have in common
with our French neighbours.
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So I've got the main ingredient
for my dish -
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00:03:28,840 --> 00:03:31,960
but I'm keen to find out
what makes the French think
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they rear the best pork.
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Parfait.
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Almost 40% of French
meat consumption
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comes from the humble pig.
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These look like ordinary porkers
to me, but they're not.
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Only hardy hogs, bred to roam and
forage here on the Albion Plateau
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can earn the name Porc du Ventoux.
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PIG GRUNTS
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Bonjour. Bonjour, bonjour.
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And my local food guide, Pascale,
has brought me to meet the farmer
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whose products are sold
at the market, Eric Aubert.
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00:04:04,120 --> 00:04:06,480
Aha, bonjour. Bonjour. Eric, Marcus.
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00:04:10,320 --> 00:04:12,240
They look very happy. C'est joli.
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Tres heureux.
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They're coming to say hello. Hello.
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PIGS GRUNT
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Now, I've had experience
looking after pigs,
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with up to 11 at one stage,
so I feel quite at home here.
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00:04:32,280 --> 00:04:35,000
This certainly brings back
a few memories.
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There's always summat to
do on the farm. I love it.
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00:04:37,480 --> 00:04:39,000
I love getting involved
with the pigs.
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Sans stress.
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No stress. Happy.
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Plenty of food. Sunshine.
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00:04:45,800 --> 00:04:48,600
Soleil, pluie... Oui, oui.
105
00:04:49,840 --> 00:04:53,080
Can you ask Eric how he got into pig
farming for me, please? I'm curious.
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00:04:53,080 --> 00:04:57,360
Comment vous etes arrive a elever
des cochons dans cette region?
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J'ai parti d'un...de la cuisine.
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00:04:59,400 --> 00:05:01,320
He was a cook. Ah.
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A chef. Chef? I like chefs.
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Good man.
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00:05:05,080 --> 00:05:09,240
I can see that he's had the sort
of midlife crisis that I was having,
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or I am having - because
I've got some pigs of my own.
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Oh, bah, voila.
114
00:05:13,640 --> 00:05:16,600
Would Eric say that this is
the best pork in France?
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In the UK,
affordability is really important.
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Is that the same here?
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It's the same in France. Is it?
Yes, it is.
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Le boeuf, surtout aujourd'hui
quoi, le boeuf il a augmente...
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Yeah, beef would be,
and veal and all this
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00:05:30,840 --> 00:05:34,680
would be a lot more expensive -
and in France we say,
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"Dans le cochon tout est bon."
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Meaning? Which means, in the pig,
you can eat everything.
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We eat the nose, ears.
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Everything is good.
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Dans le cochon tout est bon.
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C'est bien, Chef.
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THEY LAUGH
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00:05:48,280 --> 00:05:52,840
With that in mind, I want to put
Eric and Pascale to the test.
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I'd like to play a little game.
Un petit jeu pour vous, Eric.
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I'm going name the most popular
cuts of pork from Great Britain
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and I'd like you and Eric to name
the popular cuts from France.
132
00:06:02,880 --> 00:06:05,040
So it's France versus Great Britain.
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00:06:05,040 --> 00:06:06,360
We're on!
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00:06:06,360 --> 00:06:08,480
It's two against one.
135
00:06:08,480 --> 00:06:10,480
I haven't got a chance.
136
00:06:10,480 --> 00:06:12,880
Personally, I think this is
going to be a tough one for me.
137
00:06:12,880 --> 00:06:14,760
So I want to go first - sausages.
138
00:06:16,040 --> 00:06:17,920
Bacon.
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00:06:19,600 --> 00:06:21,200
Pork belly.
140
00:06:22,440 --> 00:06:24,640
I'm going to go with pork loin.
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Shoulder. Shoulder. Yes, yes, yes.
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Popular, popular, popular. Bacon.
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I'm struggling. Ham!
144
00:06:33,320 --> 00:06:35,200
We use ham. Ham sandwiches.
Of course.
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00:06:35,200 --> 00:06:37,120
We're very good at ham sandwiches.
146
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Ham toasties. Ah!
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Croque monsieur. Croque monsieur.
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Oh! He's good. He's good.
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But there's one thing in the UK
that you do not make here in France,
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I don't think, and that's
a sausage sandwich for breakfast
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with brown sauce. Oui?
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We have this,
but not the brown sauce.
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No, it's...
We couldn't cope with that.
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THEY LAUGH
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OK, now we're naming sandwiches.
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Hopefully, that's distracted them
from my defeat.
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I have to hand it to the French,
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they are pretty good
in a competition...
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I'm getting hungry. Oh, oui.
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SHE LAUGHS
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..and they certainly know
how to rear happy pigs.
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Just check out this terrain.
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Prized from nose to curly tail.
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Here they are. Yes.
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It's not just breeding that makes
Provence's Porc du Ventoux
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so special.
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Come on. We've got a few candidates.
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Oui.
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This is great territory. This is a
really good area for the shade.
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Ils sont bien dans l'ombre ici.
Oui, oui, oui.
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With all those acorns waiting
to drop from these oak trees,
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no wonder they sleep under it.
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They're probably hoping it's all
going to drop off.
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Hello. Hello.
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And will Eric stop feeding them
when the acorns drop?
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Will he need to continue this?
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Yeah, always a bit, yes.
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Always a bit more? Yes.
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Sheep, they graze the land,
they eat the grass. Yes.
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Pigs, you've got to feed them.
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And I'd imagine that that's
the reason that you eat
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nose to tail eating,
you eat all of it
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because it's cost you
so much to feed.
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Yeah. No waste. No waste.
It totally makes sense.
185
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The pigs have got a great fat
content because they're being fed,
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they're getting fatter,
187
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but they're also working to make
their muscles get strong. Yes.
188
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They get exercise. Exercise,
and that's what this territory,
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this terroir, gives them that.
Exactly. Makes sense.
190
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Yeah. Yeah.
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Time for a nose to tail
tasting platter.
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Now that's what I've been
waiting for.
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Ah, voila.
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Il attendait ca avec impatience.
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This is Provence.
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Voila. Et un peu de nos produits
qu'on fait.
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These are the products that he...
Wow. Jambon, caillette.
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Jambon. Jambon. Oui.
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00:08:39,760 --> 00:08:43,480
Caillette. Made with liver,
kidney and spinach.
200
00:08:43,480 --> 00:08:46,360
And throat also. So the offal. Yes.
201
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Fromage de tete. Et saucisse...
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00:08:48,320 --> 00:08:51,080
Head cheese. You can guess
which part of nose to tail
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this pate came from.
204
00:08:53,640 --> 00:08:55,640
It looks good. Can I taste now?
205
00:08:55,640 --> 00:08:58,040
Whatever you want. Jambon?
Jambon. Come on.
206
00:08:59,560 --> 00:09:01,760
Mm. Mm-hm-hm!
207
00:09:01,760 --> 00:09:06,080
Where I come from, when we do
a little pork board for friends,
208
00:09:06,080 --> 00:09:08,440
we have little sausages on sticks.
209
00:09:08,440 --> 00:09:11,520
Ah, ils ont des petites saucisses
sur des cure-dents.
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THEY ALL LAUGH
211
00:09:15,520 --> 00:09:18,320
That's it. And maybe some ham
and a little brown sauce.
212
00:09:18,320 --> 00:09:20,680
Un peu de jambon et la brown sauce.
213
00:09:20,680 --> 00:09:22,920
Pas de sauce. We're getting better.
214
00:09:22,920 --> 00:09:26,120
What really stands out for me
is the quality,
215
00:09:26,120 --> 00:09:28,120
the diversity of what is produced.
216
00:09:28,120 --> 00:09:30,160
They've got so many beautiful
delicacies
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00:09:30,160 --> 00:09:31,720
that's made from the pig itself,
218
00:09:31,720 --> 00:09:33,520
it's just absolutely outstanding.
219
00:09:33,520 --> 00:09:35,960
But I think we've still got
a little bit more work to do
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00:09:35,960 --> 00:09:38,520
if we're going to convince
the British public
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00:09:38,520 --> 00:09:41,080
to eat pig's head
or pig's trotters in volume.
222
00:09:42,400 --> 00:09:45,680
This has probably been
the most beautiful pig farm
223
00:09:45,680 --> 00:09:47,040
I've ever been to.
224
00:09:47,040 --> 00:09:48,840
The view is stunning.
225
00:09:48,840 --> 00:09:51,800
C'est mon bureau. Voila.
This is beautiful. It's his office.
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00:09:51,800 --> 00:09:53,360
MARCUS LAUGHS
227
00:09:51,800 --> 00:09:53,360
Chin-chin.
228
00:09:53,360 --> 00:09:55,160
Cheers. Cheers! Cheers.
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00:10:05,720 --> 00:10:08,600
If I'm going to wow the crowds
at the market later,
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00:10:08,600 --> 00:10:11,160
I'd better practise cooking
with this pork.
231
00:10:11,160 --> 00:10:14,560
So I'm going to show you
how to make a cracking dish
232
00:10:14,560 --> 00:10:16,680
with all the flavours of Provence.
233
00:10:18,440 --> 00:10:22,360
Griddled pork chop
with a simple fennel salad
234
00:10:22,360 --> 00:10:24,040
and charred orange vinaigrette.
235
00:10:26,200 --> 00:10:28,400
This steak was from the shoulder,
236
00:10:28,400 --> 00:10:31,120
and I have to say, when you're
looking for the quality of pork
237
00:10:31,120 --> 00:10:33,440
it's this lovely fat content -
238
00:10:33,440 --> 00:10:35,800
and of course you've got marbling
just running through it,
239
00:10:35,800 --> 00:10:37,560
pretty much like you'd find in beef.
240
00:10:37,560 --> 00:10:40,240
You don't normally see that in pork
241
00:10:40,240 --> 00:10:43,640
but then this is pork
at its very, very best.
242
00:10:43,640 --> 00:10:47,160
So I'm going to be serving this
with a simple fennel salad.
243
00:10:47,160 --> 00:10:49,400
But first of all,
I want to do an orange dressing
244
00:10:49,400 --> 00:10:53,240
because I just think fruit and pork
go together really, really well.
245
00:10:53,240 --> 00:10:55,600
I'm going to put the skin in it,
I'm going to put the flesh in it
246
00:10:55,600 --> 00:10:57,320
and the juices in
but I want that charring,
247
00:10:57,320 --> 00:10:59,240
I want that burnt flavour
going through my dressing.
248
00:10:59,240 --> 00:11:01,400
Simply chop into rounds,
249
00:11:01,400 --> 00:11:03,480
drizzle with oil, salt and pepper,
250
00:11:03,480 --> 00:11:05,320
then get them on the grill.
251
00:11:05,320 --> 00:11:07,640
Nothing else needed. There we go.
252
00:11:08,840 --> 00:11:11,520
And I think the charring will just
give a slightly different dimension
253
00:11:11,520 --> 00:11:14,440
to the flavour of the dressing.
Fabulous.
254
00:11:14,440 --> 00:11:17,360
I'll just leave those
to look after themselves.
255
00:11:17,360 --> 00:11:18,680
Now for the pork.
256
00:11:19,720 --> 00:11:22,600
I'm just going to just
nick off the rind there.
257
00:11:22,600 --> 00:11:25,720
That's your crackling,
but there's no point in cooking that
258
00:11:25,720 --> 00:11:27,160
when you're cooking a chop
259
00:11:27,160 --> 00:11:29,120
because it's not going to have
enough time to cook.
260
00:11:29,120 --> 00:11:31,080
So you can put that
into your freezer,
261
00:11:31,080 --> 00:11:33,400
collect a few of them up
and then put it in the oven,
262
00:11:33,400 --> 00:11:35,360
roast it and you've got yourself
a little bit of crackling.
263
00:11:35,360 --> 00:11:36,640
Put that to one side.
264
00:11:36,640 --> 00:11:40,080
All the steak needs
is some fresh thyme.
265
00:11:40,080 --> 00:11:41,560
Check my oranges.
266
00:11:43,320 --> 00:11:44,840
So just turn those over.
267
00:11:46,200 --> 00:11:48,440
Apart from getting the
charring on the oranges,
268
00:11:48,440 --> 00:11:51,200
what I'm also doing at the same time
is I'm cooking the skin,
269
00:11:51,200 --> 00:11:54,400
because it's also the skin that
I want to put into my dressing.
270
00:11:54,400 --> 00:11:57,800
So once the oranges have been
beautifully caramelised,
271
00:11:57,800 --> 00:11:59,920
I've just put a little bit
of oil into the tray,
272
00:11:59,920 --> 00:12:02,400
I'm just going to put
a pinch of seasoning on top,
273
00:12:02,400 --> 00:12:03,960
a little twist of pepper.
274
00:12:06,400 --> 00:12:09,560
A little splash of olive oil
just on top,
275
00:12:09,560 --> 00:12:11,680
a little splash
of white wine vinegar,
276
00:12:11,680 --> 00:12:13,840
and they're just going to go back
onto the top of the grill
277
00:12:13,840 --> 00:12:15,480
while I prep the rest of my dish.
278
00:12:17,640 --> 00:12:20,000
Right, on to my salad.
Bit of fennel.
279
00:12:20,000 --> 00:12:21,480
So just nick off the top.
280
00:12:27,640 --> 00:12:29,320
Mm. Aniseed.
281
00:12:29,320 --> 00:12:32,000
Fennel, got quite a unique flavour.
282
00:12:32,000 --> 00:12:34,560
This goes so well with pork.
283
00:12:34,560 --> 00:12:36,160
So nice thin slices.
284
00:12:37,400 --> 00:12:41,280
If you keep the root on, it just
holds it all together like that.
285
00:12:41,280 --> 00:12:42,880
Looks fantastic.
286
00:12:44,520 --> 00:12:48,080
That's delicious. It's almost
like an explosion of liquorice.
287
00:12:48,080 --> 00:12:51,040
I actually think fennel tastes
better when it's in a salad
288
00:12:51,040 --> 00:12:53,880
than when it's actually braised
or cooked.
289
00:12:53,880 --> 00:12:55,480
Chop a bit more up.
290
00:12:55,480 --> 00:12:58,520
And one bulb when thinly sliced
goes a really long way.
291
00:13:00,200 --> 00:13:01,920
Now on to the vinaigrette,
292
00:13:01,920 --> 00:13:04,440
beginning with some
extra virgin olive oil.
293
00:13:04,440 --> 00:13:06,480
Touch of white wine vinegar.
294
00:13:07,480 --> 00:13:08,720
Pinch of salt.
295
00:13:10,360 --> 00:13:11,680
Pepper.
296
00:13:12,920 --> 00:13:14,720
A little bit of grain mustard.
297
00:13:16,920 --> 00:13:18,800
Little drizzle of honey.
298
00:13:22,280 --> 00:13:23,440
Mix it all up.
299
00:13:23,440 --> 00:13:25,160
BLENDER WHIRS
300
00:13:30,520 --> 00:13:32,960
Got a lovely sweet and sour
going on there.
301
00:13:32,960 --> 00:13:34,840
Absolutely fabulous.
302
00:13:34,840 --> 00:13:36,320
Now for the oranges.
303
00:13:38,240 --> 00:13:39,960
Look at that.
304
00:13:39,960 --> 00:13:42,440
Just going to cut them up
into pieces...
305
00:13:44,480 --> 00:13:45,920
..just to help it through.
306
00:13:48,960 --> 00:13:50,400
How good does that look?
307
00:13:50,400 --> 00:13:52,280
A little bit of charring
around the outside.
308
00:13:52,280 --> 00:13:53,960
The sugar's become concentrated.
309
00:13:53,960 --> 00:13:57,800
The skin has started to soften up
and you get a beautiful flavour
310
00:13:57,800 --> 00:14:00,080
once it goes into your vinaigrette.
Fabulous.
311
00:14:01,080 --> 00:14:03,360
Add the orange pieces
a few at a time
312
00:14:03,360 --> 00:14:05,840
and make sure they're well blended.
313
00:14:05,840 --> 00:14:07,560
WHIRRING
314
00:14:07,560 --> 00:14:09,040
Wow.
315
00:14:12,120 --> 00:14:14,400
You get a bit messy, but it's...
it's worth it.
316
00:14:14,400 --> 00:14:16,360
And there we have it -
317
00:14:16,360 --> 00:14:18,520
the perfect vinaigrette for pork.
318
00:14:18,520 --> 00:14:21,840
Simple, economic, delicious.
319
00:14:21,840 --> 00:14:23,520
A true taste of Provence.
320
00:14:25,120 --> 00:14:27,320
Right, now I can start
cooking my pork steak.
321
00:14:27,320 --> 00:14:29,360
Pinch of salt on the first side,
322
00:14:29,360 --> 00:14:31,440
on the side that I'm going
to cook first.
323
00:14:31,440 --> 00:14:33,080
Pepper.
324
00:14:33,080 --> 00:14:34,560
And it's over to the grill.
325
00:14:36,240 --> 00:14:37,440
There we go.
326
00:14:37,440 --> 00:14:40,120
Pork on the grill -
absolutely fantastic.
327
00:14:40,120 --> 00:14:42,760
Don't need to move it around.
Just leave it.
328
00:14:42,760 --> 00:14:44,320
Get a good charring onto it.
329
00:14:44,320 --> 00:14:46,160
The fat will start to drip through.
330
00:14:46,160 --> 00:14:49,240
One of my favourite dishes my mum
used to make was pork chops
331
00:14:49,240 --> 00:14:53,400
with onion and sage. And she just
used to fill a dish full of onions.
332
00:14:53,400 --> 00:14:55,600
She just used to sit
the pork chop on top,
333
00:14:55,600 --> 00:14:58,400
little knobs of butter,
loads of dry sage,
334
00:14:58,400 --> 00:15:00,080
put it into the oven and just
cooked it really slowly
335
00:15:00,080 --> 00:15:02,360
until it was braised.
Those fabulous memories.
336
00:15:02,360 --> 00:15:04,240
Talk about simple.
337
00:15:04,240 --> 00:15:08,800
And all this steak needs is
a pinch more salt and a flip.
338
00:15:08,800 --> 00:15:12,360
It just takes four to five minutes
on each side to cook.
339
00:15:12,360 --> 00:15:14,280
Just a nice simple char.
340
00:15:14,280 --> 00:15:16,720
I think we're as good as done there.
341
00:15:16,720 --> 00:15:18,320
Just one final blast.
342
00:15:21,840 --> 00:15:23,520
There we go.
Now we're getting there.
343
00:15:24,480 --> 00:15:26,280
And we're good to go.
There we have it.
344
00:15:26,280 --> 00:15:28,360
Look at that.
How good does that look?
345
00:15:29,440 --> 00:15:30,800
Beautiful.
346
00:15:30,800 --> 00:15:33,000
So when you're cooking on the grill,
just give it a good seal
347
00:15:33,000 --> 00:15:35,400
and then just leave it there
just to sit and rest
348
00:15:35,400 --> 00:15:36,880
before you start eating it.
349
00:15:36,880 --> 00:15:38,680
I think we can start putting
this dish together.
350
00:15:38,680 --> 00:15:41,080
Got my fennel, nice and simple.
351
00:15:41,080 --> 00:15:45,200
Drizzle the orange vinaigrette
over the fennel and toss together.
352
00:15:47,040 --> 00:15:49,120
Then another touch
of that fresh thyme.
353
00:15:50,840 --> 00:15:52,800
One of the lovely things
about this type of dressing
354
00:15:52,800 --> 00:15:55,480
is you don't need too much,
it's got so much flavour.
355
00:15:55,480 --> 00:15:58,280
To keep things a la Provencal,
356
00:15:58,280 --> 00:16:00,240
some chopped green olives...
357
00:16:01,840 --> 00:16:04,640
..and for a fresh taste of aniseed,
358
00:16:04,640 --> 00:16:06,760
a final sprinkling of fennel fronds.
359
00:16:06,760 --> 00:16:08,240
Waste not want not.
360
00:16:08,240 --> 00:16:10,160
So that's pretty much my salad done.
361
00:16:10,160 --> 00:16:12,120
It's time to put it all on a plate.
362
00:16:14,120 --> 00:16:17,200
It's simple, it's fresh,
363
00:16:17,200 --> 00:16:19,000
it's delicious.
364
00:16:19,000 --> 00:16:20,240
And there we have it.
365
00:16:20,240 --> 00:16:24,200
Fennel salad with a
delicious burnt orange dressing...
366
00:16:25,480 --> 00:16:27,600
..and a beautiful grilled pork chop.
367
00:16:30,840 --> 00:16:32,440
Oh, wow!
368
00:16:32,440 --> 00:16:36,440
The marbling of the fat is what's
giving it this stunning flavour,
369
00:16:36,440 --> 00:16:39,560
and then the salty olive
with the fennel
370
00:16:39,560 --> 00:16:41,600
is just a beautiful marriage.
371
00:16:41,600 --> 00:16:44,240
But what I really, really love
about this dish
372
00:16:44,240 --> 00:16:47,320
is not just the humble ingredients
that I've used to make it,
373
00:16:47,320 --> 00:16:50,000
it's the simplicity of it
that I think is so clever.
374
00:16:50,000 --> 00:16:52,600
And the little twist
with the grilled orange,
375
00:16:52,600 --> 00:16:55,320
well, that's just something special
and it works a treat.
376
00:16:57,000 --> 00:17:00,720
Mm. In fact...
I could eat that all day long.
377
00:17:02,920 --> 00:17:05,400
Here's hoping that this pork
will put me in good stead
378
00:17:05,400 --> 00:17:07,480
when I cook for the locals
at the market later.
379
00:17:13,480 --> 00:17:16,000
Speaking of humble simplicity,
380
00:17:16,000 --> 00:17:19,200
there's a delicacy here that gives
those words new meaning.
381
00:17:20,480 --> 00:17:22,800
In France, it's an ingredient
382
00:17:22,800 --> 00:17:25,840
elevated to grace
even a king's table -
383
00:17:25,840 --> 00:17:30,720
but back in the UK, it's something
many of us consider a garden pest.
384
00:17:30,720 --> 00:17:32,440
It is, of course...
385
00:17:32,440 --> 00:17:34,120
..the snail.
386
00:17:34,120 --> 00:17:38,160
Always on the hunt for simple,
economic and delicious produce,
387
00:17:38,160 --> 00:17:42,880
I've been invited by Livain, a local
chef who's an expert in escargot,
388
00:17:42,880 --> 00:17:45,120
to meet his supplier, Alphonse,
389
00:17:45,120 --> 00:17:47,760
who's been rearing snails
since he was a boy.
390
00:17:50,560 --> 00:17:52,160
Ha. Enchante. Enchante.
391
00:17:52,160 --> 00:17:53,200
Wow.
392
00:17:53,200 --> 00:17:54,520
This is the farm here?
393
00:17:54,520 --> 00:17:56,720
I've never been to a snail farm.
394
00:17:56,720 --> 00:18:00,080
I thought it was going to be inside,
like an incubator. Yes.
395
00:18:00,080 --> 00:18:02,160
This is wild, this is natural. Yes.
396
00:18:02,160 --> 00:18:04,840
I would never go into my garden
and look at a snail and think,
397
00:18:04,840 --> 00:18:06,520
"I want to eat it." Yeah.
398
00:18:10,280 --> 00:18:12,840
So are there different varieties
of snails here in the region?
399
00:18:12,840 --> 00:18:14,280
Yes. Yes. Can you show me?
400
00:18:14,280 --> 00:18:16,720
La-bas. Oui.
401
00:18:16,720 --> 00:18:19,800
Along these narrow corridors
of brush and herbs,
402
00:18:19,800 --> 00:18:24,520
Alphonse can rear over 250 snails
in just one square metre.
403
00:18:26,120 --> 00:18:27,480
Whoa, whoa.
404
00:18:31,800 --> 00:18:34,160
Fattening up for autumn
on the fresh herbs
405
00:18:34,160 --> 00:18:37,600
are the traditional petit gris,
sold and eaten in their shell.
406
00:18:39,400 --> 00:18:42,440
And the gros gris,
loved by restaurateurs.
407
00:18:42,440 --> 00:18:44,120
How many snails does he produce
then, in a year?
408
00:18:44,120 --> 00:18:45,440
Combien d'escargots vous faites?
409
00:18:47,520 --> 00:18:50,680
400,000? Yes.
Per year? Per year, yes. Wow.
410
00:18:50,680 --> 00:18:52,520
This may be a stupid question,
411
00:18:52,520 --> 00:18:54,520
do you have male and female snails?
412
00:18:54,520 --> 00:18:57,040
Non, les deux sexes. Il y a deux.
Hermaphrodite.
413
00:18:57,040 --> 00:18:59,000
Male and female together as one?
Yeah.
414
00:18:59,000 --> 00:19:02,400
Hermaphrodite,
but they need a partner
415
00:19:02,400 --> 00:19:03,800
to make little ones.
416
00:19:03,800 --> 00:19:06,600
MARCUS LAUGHS
417
00:19:03,800 --> 00:19:06,600
Yeah, complicated.
418
00:19:06,600 --> 00:19:09,480
Complicated.
I need to see this for myself,
419
00:19:09,480 --> 00:19:14,160
but I've got no idea what
or where the bits on a snail are.
420
00:19:14,160 --> 00:19:15,560
Chef, Chef, I need your help.
421
00:19:15,560 --> 00:19:17,400
Ca c'est le beau gris.
I need your help here cos I...
422
00:19:17,400 --> 00:19:19,080
It's, it's new for me too. Er...
423
00:19:19,080 --> 00:19:20,280
MARCUS LAUGHS
424
00:19:20,280 --> 00:19:21,320
The, the escargot...
425
00:19:21,320 --> 00:19:22,920
I'm so pleased he's with me.
426
00:19:22,920 --> 00:19:24,240
They do it like this.
427
00:19:24,240 --> 00:19:25,720
OK. To reproduce.
428
00:19:25,720 --> 00:19:27,640
Really? I never knew that.
429
00:19:27,640 --> 00:19:30,360
I never, ever knew that.
430
00:19:30,360 --> 00:19:33,080
Alphonse has certainly
opened my eyes
431
00:19:33,080 --> 00:19:35,760
to the hidden world
of snail husbandry.
432
00:19:38,040 --> 00:19:40,080
Thankfully, when it comes
to eating them
433
00:19:40,080 --> 00:19:42,440
I'm on more familiar ground,
434
00:19:42,440 --> 00:19:46,160
and Livain is showing us how he
prepares them in his restaurant.
435
00:19:47,800 --> 00:19:50,360
Alphonse's snails are already
pre-cooked,
436
00:19:50,360 --> 00:19:52,720
so they just need warming through.
437
00:19:52,720 --> 00:19:54,800
So underneath we put a prune puree,
438
00:19:54,800 --> 00:19:56,640
we put a green pesto,
439
00:19:56,640 --> 00:20:00,480
and then with the cooking juice
from the snails we make a cream.
440
00:20:00,480 --> 00:20:03,120
We're way off simple Provencal
cuisine now.
441
00:20:03,120 --> 00:20:07,040
This entree is turning into a
Michelin-starred masterclass.
442
00:20:08,720 --> 00:20:10,720
Finally, the piece de resistance.
443
00:20:10,720 --> 00:20:13,320
Alphonse's fabulous gros gris
444
00:20:13,320 --> 00:20:15,800
join the garden salad
and flower petals,
445
00:20:15,800 --> 00:20:20,400
followed by yet another
flavoured cream - and, voila.
446
00:20:20,400 --> 00:20:23,680
Livain has elevated Alphonse's
simple escargot
447
00:20:23,680 --> 00:20:25,560
into a fine dining experience.
448
00:20:26,880 --> 00:20:28,360
Wow.
449
00:20:28,360 --> 00:20:30,240
Normally it's me that's doing this.
450
00:20:30,240 --> 00:20:32,080
OK. Doing it nice and fancy.
451
00:20:32,080 --> 00:20:34,760
This looks beautiful.
This is like the Garden of Provence.
452
00:20:34,760 --> 00:20:35,800
I love that.
453
00:20:35,800 --> 00:20:37,360
He only goes for the snail, look.
454
00:20:37,360 --> 00:20:38,640
Bon, amazing.
455
00:20:44,480 --> 00:20:45,720
Wow, so tender.
456
00:20:45,720 --> 00:20:47,560
Wow!
C'est beau et tendre, l'escargot.
457
00:20:47,560 --> 00:20:48,960
Good snails.
458
00:20:48,960 --> 00:20:50,240
And so soft. Yeah.
459
00:20:52,040 --> 00:20:54,040
My memory of snails are chewy.
460
00:20:54,040 --> 00:20:56,280
OK, no. This is not chewy at all.
461
00:20:56,280 --> 00:20:58,880
No. When it's good cooked, er,
it's like butter in the mouth.
462
00:20:58,880 --> 00:21:00,560
Cos it's Alphonse
that does the cooking.
463
00:21:01,560 --> 00:21:04,720
They're cooked twice,
first in stock, then brine.
464
00:21:04,720 --> 00:21:07,680
So Alphonse's snails are already
full of flavour.
465
00:21:07,680 --> 00:21:08,960
OK.
466
00:21:08,960 --> 00:21:10,680
OK. My turn.
467
00:21:10,680 --> 00:21:12,000
Yes, your turn.
468
00:21:12,000 --> 00:21:15,800
This is my chance to show the French
what we Brits are made of.
469
00:21:15,800 --> 00:21:17,560
That's restaurant style.
470
00:21:17,560 --> 00:21:19,600
Thank you. Yes.
Which is beautiful.
471
00:21:19,600 --> 00:21:21,480
I'm just going to keep it simple.
472
00:21:21,480 --> 00:21:23,000
Same snails.
473
00:21:23,000 --> 00:21:24,560
And I've got a secret weapon,
474
00:21:24,560 --> 00:21:27,080
supercharged with local ingredients.
475
00:21:27,080 --> 00:21:29,440
This is pretty much
a take on a classic
476
00:21:29,440 --> 00:21:31,000
garlic and parsley butter,
477
00:21:31,000 --> 00:21:32,760
but with the flavours of Provence.
478
00:21:32,760 --> 00:21:34,720
Let's hope this does the trick!
479
00:21:34,720 --> 00:21:37,200
A touch of olive oil into a hot pan
480
00:21:37,200 --> 00:21:40,240
and it's straight in with those
drained snails.
481
00:21:40,240 --> 00:21:42,480
Just a little
bit of saute on the outside.
482
00:21:42,480 --> 00:21:44,720
This is fast food French style,
483
00:21:44,720 --> 00:21:47,800
letting simple ingredients
speak for themselves.
484
00:21:49,800 --> 00:21:52,360
What I just want is just a little
bit of crispiness,
485
00:21:52,360 --> 00:21:54,320
just a little, not too much.
486
00:21:55,320 --> 00:21:56,640
Little bit of lemon.
487
00:21:58,080 --> 00:21:59,400
What do you think?
488
00:21:59,400 --> 00:22:01,120
OK? C'est bon? Bon.
489
00:22:01,120 --> 00:22:02,560
Pas mal, oui.
490
00:22:03,640 --> 00:22:05,360
And then we're just going to
put in some of this
491
00:22:05,360 --> 00:22:06,560
beautiful butter de Provence.
492
00:22:06,560 --> 00:22:10,400
As that melts, the snails will get
a super boost of flavour.
493
00:22:10,400 --> 00:22:12,960
It's been a long time
since I cooked snails like this.
494
00:22:12,960 --> 00:22:16,160
But I have to say, knowing that they
taste this good,
495
00:22:16,160 --> 00:22:18,200
this is easy, this is fantastic.
496
00:22:18,200 --> 00:22:20,880
All I'm doing now is just
aerating the butter,
497
00:22:20,880 --> 00:22:23,160
turning the butter into just
a little bit of beurre noisette.
498
00:22:23,160 --> 00:22:24,520
There we go.
499
00:22:24,520 --> 00:22:25,960
Take them off the heat.
500
00:22:25,960 --> 00:22:27,600
Just let them absorb that butter.
501
00:22:29,000 --> 00:22:30,840
OK, c'est fini.
502
00:22:30,840 --> 00:22:32,480
Break some bread.
503
00:22:32,480 --> 00:22:33,960
Dip it into the pan.
504
00:22:33,960 --> 00:22:35,680
Nothing could be easier.
505
00:22:35,680 --> 00:22:37,720
Oh!
506
00:22:37,720 --> 00:22:40,120
But have I convinced Monsieur Snail?
507
00:22:40,120 --> 00:22:41,440
Ah-ha.
508
00:22:43,640 --> 00:22:45,640
That's my dish. Dish rustic.
509
00:22:48,160 --> 00:22:49,760
Here you are. Thank you.
510
00:22:50,760 --> 00:22:52,040
Bon, c'est bon. C'est bon, huh?
511
00:22:53,640 --> 00:22:54,880
Voila.
512
00:22:58,800 --> 00:23:00,160
Look at that.
513
00:23:00,160 --> 00:23:01,480
Very good. Beautiful.
514
00:23:04,680 --> 00:23:05,920
Wow!
515
00:23:07,720 --> 00:23:09,880
Two completely different things
516
00:23:09,880 --> 00:23:13,720
but yet the snail is
the king of both dishes.
517
00:23:13,720 --> 00:23:15,960
That's the reason why the French,
they love it. Yeah.
518
00:23:15,960 --> 00:23:17,880
The chef de anglais, c'est bon?
519
00:23:17,880 --> 00:23:19,680
Est-ce que le chef anglais il
a bien travaille?
520
00:23:19,680 --> 00:23:21,520
Is that not good? Oui, oui, bon,
surtout pour un anglais...
521
00:23:21,520 --> 00:23:23,440
It's OK? Anglais?
..que n'aime pas les escargots.
522
00:23:23,440 --> 00:23:27,680
He said especially for an English
guy who don't like snails.
523
00:23:28,760 --> 00:23:30,560
No, it's true, yeah, yeah.
524
00:23:30,560 --> 00:23:33,280
Really good. Ah, c'est tres bon,
tres bon, tres, tres bon. Merci.
525
00:23:33,280 --> 00:23:34,600
He's the boss.
526
00:23:34,600 --> 00:23:38,160
He... This is why
our dishes taste so good
527
00:23:38,160 --> 00:23:39,480
because the snails...
528
00:23:39,480 --> 00:23:41,240
Il ne faut pas dire...
These are happy snails.
529
00:23:46,400 --> 00:23:48,000
They were delicious.
530
00:23:48,000 --> 00:23:51,280
I think I have just met
an absolute master
531
00:23:51,280 --> 00:23:54,760
in the art of snail nurturing.
532
00:23:54,760 --> 00:23:58,320
And I've had a lesson in the birds
and the bees of snails.
533
00:23:58,320 --> 00:23:59,640
How cool is that?
534
00:23:59,640 --> 00:24:02,040
That's something I didn't
expect today.
535
00:24:02,040 --> 00:24:03,960
I never thought I'd ever say
that on a snail farm!
536
00:24:12,440 --> 00:24:15,000
Back in Lourmarin,
the market kitchen cook-off
537
00:24:15,000 --> 00:24:16,480
is fast approaching,
538
00:24:16,480 --> 00:24:18,760
and with the Porc de Ventoux
already in hand,
539
00:24:18,760 --> 00:24:22,920
will I be in with
a chance of impressing the locals?
540
00:24:22,920 --> 00:24:25,200
I'm really going to have to pull
out all the stops,
541
00:24:25,200 --> 00:24:28,320
and need a few surprises
up my sleeve.
542
00:24:28,320 --> 00:24:30,280
Deux euros quarante.
543
00:24:30,280 --> 00:24:32,720
Voila. Merci. Merci, merci,
au revoir. Bonne soiree.
544
00:24:34,040 --> 00:24:37,040
And with only a few minutes
until I'm due onstage,
545
00:24:37,040 --> 00:24:38,600
I need to make some decisions.
546
00:24:38,600 --> 00:24:40,440
Right, here we go.
547
00:24:40,440 --> 00:24:43,200
What I'm thinking, for my pork,
I've got some bread
548
00:24:43,200 --> 00:24:45,080
and then I'm thinking of just
like a salsa.
549
00:24:45,080 --> 00:24:47,840
So I'm going to get some peppers,
some tomatoes, just an onion
550
00:24:47,840 --> 00:24:50,320
and I've got these lovely herbs
just to finish it off.
551
00:24:50,320 --> 00:24:51,840
I've missed my spot
in the queue now.
552
00:24:51,840 --> 00:24:53,280
Ah. Voila.
553
00:24:57,040 --> 00:24:58,520
I've got to get cooking!
554
00:25:02,400 --> 00:25:04,920
I just need to let my imagination
just run wild,
555
00:25:04,920 --> 00:25:07,040
because there seems to be
a bit of an audience gathered.
556
00:25:08,120 --> 00:25:09,560
I need to get a bit of a move on.
557
00:25:09,560 --> 00:25:11,760
So I'm just going to
get on with my salsa first.
558
00:25:11,760 --> 00:25:13,200
So here we go.
559
00:25:13,200 --> 00:25:15,560
Nous sommes ici avec le chef
Marcus Wareing d'Angleterre.
560
00:25:17,160 --> 00:25:19,120
Nous sommes tres heureux de,
d'avoir...
561
00:25:21,240 --> 00:25:22,680
Chopped onion.
562
00:25:22,680 --> 00:25:25,200
Even though the expectations
are really quite high,
563
00:25:25,200 --> 00:25:27,560
what makes this really simple for me
564
00:25:27,560 --> 00:25:31,120
is that I just need to
let their produce
565
00:25:31,120 --> 00:25:33,120
do the talking for me
566
00:25:33,120 --> 00:25:37,000
and all I've got to do is
just gently bring it all together
567
00:25:37,000 --> 00:25:39,080
and hopefully my guests enjoy it.
568
00:25:39,080 --> 00:25:40,840
Hello. Bonjour.
569
00:25:40,840 --> 00:25:43,200
As if I wasn't already sweating,
570
00:25:43,200 --> 00:25:45,240
I've got a live running
commentary too!
571
00:25:45,240 --> 00:25:46,600
Il fallait qu'il pratique.
572
00:25:46,600 --> 00:25:47,720
MARCUS LAUGHS
573
00:25:47,720 --> 00:25:49,800
Je sais pas parler Francais, uh.
574
00:25:49,800 --> 00:25:53,520
Which is testing all my French
skills, as well as my cooking.
575
00:25:53,520 --> 00:25:55,960
Chives. Ciboulette. Ciboulette.
576
00:25:55,960 --> 00:25:58,080
Ciboulette. No pressure then!
577
00:26:00,000 --> 00:26:01,520
Le beaucoup.
578
00:26:01,520 --> 00:26:03,280
Oui, il va bien, le poivre.
579
00:26:04,400 --> 00:26:06,680
Looks like my salsa is going viral.
580
00:26:08,320 --> 00:26:09,720
Excellent. Merci.
581
00:26:09,720 --> 00:26:11,320
Voila. C'est fini.
582
00:26:11,320 --> 00:26:13,200
Actually I think I'm holding my own
a little bit
583
00:26:13,200 --> 00:26:14,480
with the French at the moment.
584
00:26:14,480 --> 00:26:16,280
I'm feeling good, I'm feeling good.
585
00:26:18,880 --> 00:26:20,720
Now I know pork loves fruit,
586
00:26:20,720 --> 00:26:23,160
but there's no time
for charred oranges.
587
00:26:23,160 --> 00:26:26,880
So a simple fig and basil salad
will do nicely.
588
00:26:26,880 --> 00:26:28,440
Il melange le basilic.
589
00:26:28,440 --> 00:26:29,680
Trust me.
590
00:26:29,680 --> 00:26:32,160
Now for the local hero -
591
00:26:32,160 --> 00:26:34,640
Provence's celebrated
Porc de Ventoux...
592
00:26:36,000 --> 00:26:37,920
..and I'm counting on
the steak's marbling
593
00:26:37,920 --> 00:26:39,360
to deliver the flavour
594
00:26:39,360 --> 00:26:40,920
and wow the crowd,
595
00:26:40,920 --> 00:26:44,000
just like it did me
the first time I tried it.
596
00:26:44,000 --> 00:26:46,960
I just need to
add in a bit of theatre!
597
00:26:50,000 --> 00:26:51,640
Oh! C'est magnifique.
598
00:26:51,640 --> 00:26:55,080
Flambeed, and with a perfect crust,
the pork's done.
599
00:26:55,080 --> 00:26:56,280
Oui, oui, oui.
600
00:27:00,120 --> 00:27:03,160
I feel like I've got
my head chef watching me.
601
00:27:03,160 --> 00:27:05,200
The chef de cuisine. Merci beaucoup.
602
00:27:05,200 --> 00:27:07,320
Here's hoping the host is happy!
603
00:27:07,320 --> 00:27:09,280
And with the pork steaks sliced
604
00:27:09,280 --> 00:27:12,600
and dressed in my delicious
fresh salsa, I'm done.
605
00:27:12,600 --> 00:27:14,320
C'est fini. Excellent.
606
00:27:16,200 --> 00:27:17,560
Merci.
607
00:27:17,560 --> 00:27:19,000
J'ai pas les mots.
608
00:27:19,000 --> 00:27:20,400
Merci.
609
00:27:20,400 --> 00:27:24,440
Time to find out what the French
crowd think of my British cooking.
610
00:27:24,440 --> 00:27:26,120
C'est le top de top.
611
00:27:26,120 --> 00:27:27,880
Merci.
612
00:27:27,880 --> 00:27:31,120
And first in line to see what I've
made with his pork...
613
00:27:32,520 --> 00:27:34,640
..is Eric's son, Loris.
614
00:27:35,800 --> 00:27:37,080
Good?
615
00:27:38,920 --> 00:27:41,040
That is good. Merci.
616
00:27:41,040 --> 00:27:42,440
I'm happy now.
617
00:27:42,440 --> 00:27:44,360
Right, I'd like, Paul, I'd like know
618
00:27:44,360 --> 00:27:47,040
whether I've managed to change
your mind about the British chefs?
619
00:27:47,040 --> 00:27:48,920
OK. So you've got to come and try.
620
00:27:48,920 --> 00:27:50,800
Well, the smell is very nice.
621
00:27:50,800 --> 00:27:52,160
Voila.
622
00:27:55,000 --> 00:27:56,320
I'm waiting for the reaction.
623
00:27:56,320 --> 00:27:58,640
I'm actually a little bit nervous,
if I'm really honest with you.
624
00:27:58,640 --> 00:28:01,400
We've got the boss,
who didn't really give me
625
00:28:01,400 --> 00:28:04,280
a huge amount of encouragement
but I'm waiting for the verdict.
626
00:28:04,280 --> 00:28:05,920
I change my opinion.
627
00:28:05,920 --> 00:28:07,680
Yay! Fantastic.
628
00:28:07,680 --> 00:28:09,760
Thank you. Lovely.
Thank you for inviting me.
629
00:28:11,040 --> 00:28:14,880
I know exactly how the contestants
on MasterChef feel now!
630
00:28:16,040 --> 00:28:19,880
But let's be honest, cooking simply,
with ingredients this fresh,
631
00:28:19,880 --> 00:28:21,320
is always a winner.
632
00:28:21,320 --> 00:28:22,920
Yay!
48212
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