All language subtitles for A.Year.In.Champagne.2014.1080p.WEBRip.x264.AAC5.1-[YTS.MX]

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[indistinct conversation]

[Strauss's Blue Danube Waltz]

*

[burner roaring]

male narrator: SOME THINGS
WE DO ARE PURE FANTASY,

CRAZY NOTIONS THAT WE KEEP
UP OUR SLEEVE FOR A SPECIAL DAY.

HOT AIR BALLOONING
IS ONE OF THEM.

IN FRANCE, THEY CALL
THESE THINGS MONTGOLFIERE.

THE NAME HONORS THE MAN--

A FRENCHMAN, OF COURSE--

WHO INVENTED THE BALLOON
MORE THAN 200 YEARS AGO.

*

THE CELEBRATION TODAY
IS IN HONOR OF THE 40TH BIRTHDAY

OF XAVIER GONET,
CHAMPAGNE MAKER.

FOR THE FIRST TIME IN HIS LIFE,

HE'S LOOKING DOWN ON THE VINES

THAT HIS FAMILY HAS HARVESTED
FOR HUNDREDS OF YEARS.

*

- [speaking French]

- [speaking French]

*

narrator: THE FIRST STRANGE
THING ABOUT THE CHAMPAGNE REGION

IS HOW FAR NORTH IT IS:

NORTH AND EAST OF PARIS--

FURTHER NORTH THAN ALSACE.

IN FACT, IT'S THE MOST NORTHERLY
WINE-GROWING REGION

IN CONTINENTAL EUROPE.

JUST UP THE ROAD, THE BELGIANS
MAKE BEER, NOT WINE.

THE SECOND THING TO NOTE
IS THE SOIL.

IN MUCH OF CHAMPAGNE,

IT'S PURE CHALK
JUST BELOW THE SURFACE.

BLINDING, WHITE CHALK,

AND THE REMAINS OF SEASHELLS
FROM PREHISTORIC OCEANS.

THESE GIVE THE BEST CHAMPAGNE
ITS CLEAN, CRISP FINISH.

AND THE TOPSOIL WITH
A DUSTING OF MINERALS BELOW

GIVES THE FLAVOR.

APRIL 2012.

A STRONG, HOT START TO
THE WINE-MAKING YEAR IN FRANCE.

STEPHANE COQUILETTE INSPECTS
HIS VINES WITH MARTINE SAUNIER,

WHO IMPORTS HIS CHAMPAGNE
INTO THE U.S.

- [speaking French]

narrator: STEPHANE IS
AN INDEPENDENT GROWER-PRODUCER

WHO CREATES TOP-OF-THE-LINE
BOUTIQUE WINES.

BUT MORE AND MORE
OF THE VINEYARDS ARE OWNED

BY THE BIG NAMES
WHO DOMINATE CHAMPAGNE

IN A WAY THAT'S UNHEARD
OF IN BURGUNDY OR BORDEAUX.

THE COMPETITION FOR STEPHANE
AND OTHER SMALL PRODUCERS

IS NOT THE APPELLATION
DOWN THE ROAD

BUT THE MARKETING
AND PURCHASING POWER

OF MAJOR CORPORATIONS.

CHAMPAGNE IS AN INDUSTRY

WITH A MASSIVE GLOBAL MARKET
TO DEFEND.

THE COMPANIES RANGE

FROM VAST, INTERNATIONAL
LUXURY GOODS BRANDS

TO SMALL FAMILY OPERATIONS

PRODUCING
A FEW THOUSAND BOTTLES A YEAR.

YOU CAN'T CALL A SPARKLING WINE
"CHAMPAGNE"

UNLESS IT COMES
FROM THIS REGION IN FRANCE.

THE TOP QUALITY--
PREMIER OR GRAND CRU--

COMES FROM THE HEART OF THE AREA

WITH THE TOWNS
OF EPERNAY AND AY

RIGHT IN THE MIDDLE.

AND "RIMES"--OR REIMS--
TO THE NORTH.

REIMS IS A CATHEDRAL CITY,

A BASTION OF ELEGANCE
AND TRADITION.

IT'S HEAD OFFICE FOR
MANY OF THE FAMOUS NAMES

AND HOME OF THE UNION
OF CHAMPAGNE HOUSES.

THE PRESIDENT IS
GHISLAIN DE MONTGOLFIER.

HE'S ONE OF
THE BOLLINGER FAMILY.

- [speaking French]

narrator:
THIS IS MAISON BOLLINGER--

"BOLLY" TO THE ENGLISH--

THE FAVORITE TIPPLE
OF KING EDWARD VII.

- BONJOUR!
- MARTINE.

[speaking French]

- MERCI.

- [speaking French]

- D'ACCORD.

narrator:
FOUNDED IN 1829,

IT'S A CLASSIC, MIDDLE-SIZED
CHAMPAGNE HOUSE

WITH A DISTINGUISHED REPUTATION.

ON THE WALLS
OF THE MAIN RECEPTION

ARE DISCREET ROYAL WARRANTS

INDICATING THAT BOLLINGER
HAS BEEN A CHAMPAGNE OF CHOICE

FOR THE BRITISH ROYAL FAMILY

FOR THE LAST 125 YEARS.

YOU CAN'T BUY
THAT KIND OF PUBLICITY.

JEROME PHILIPPON
IS THE MANAGING DIRECTOR

OF BOLLINGER.

- [speaking French]

[conversing in French]

- [speaking French]

- [speaking French]

- [speaking French]

narrator: THE COMPANY HIRED
A PROFESSIONAL ARCHIVIST

TO DIG THROUGH
THE FAMILY TREASURES

AND HELP SHARE THEM
WITH THE WORLD.

SOME OF BOLLINGER'S
MOST PRECIOUS ITEMS

COME FROM THE MID 20TH CENTURY

AND BELONGED
TO MADAME LILY BOLLINGER,

ONE OF THE GREAT LADIES
OF CHAMPAGNE.

IN THE 1950s
SHE RAN THE COMPANY

AND BECAME THE FACE OF BOLLINGER
TO THE WORLD.

THESE ARE PHOTOS
FROM HER TRIUMPHANT TOUR

OF THE UNITED STATES
AFTER THE SECOND WORLD WAR.

THIS WAS REAL
IN-YOUR-FACE MARKETING.

BUT IT WAS SOMETHING
THE CHAMPAGNE MAKERS

HAD LEARNED HOW TO DO
A HUNDRED YEARS BEFORE.

CHAMPAGNE MAKERS HAVE USED
EVERY MEDIUM KNOWN TO MAN

TO SPREAD THEIR MESSAGE
AROUND THE WORLD.

AND WHAT'S THE MESSAGE?

CHAMPAGNE IS MORE
THAN JUST WINE;

IT'S MAGIC.

BUT HOW DID THEY PULL THAT OFF?

- [speaking French]

- [speaking French]

[birds twittering]

narrator: THEY'VE BEEN MAKING
CHAMPAGNE FOR OVER 250 YEARS.

IT WAS ONCE
A MYSTERIOUS PROCESS,

A CLOSELY HELD SECRET.

HOW ON EARTH DID THEY GET
THE BUBBLES TO FORM IN THE WINE?

THIS IS CRAMANT,

ONE OF THE LOVELIEST VILLAGES
SOUTHWEST OF EPERNAY.

HERE THE DIEBOLT FAMILY
MAKE FIRST-CLASS CHAMPAGNE

FROM CHARDONNAY GRAPES.

THE REALITY
IS THAT WINE-MAKING--

AND, PARTICULARLY,
MAKING CHAMPAGNE--

IS HARD WORK:

24/7 FOR MOST OF THE 365 DAYS
IN THE YEAR.

TO MAKE GREAT WINE,

YOU HAVE TO KEEP THE PLACE
SCRUPULOUSLY CLEAN.

ISABELLE DIEBOLT TAKES
THIS JOB PERSONALLY.

SHE'S THE ONLY ONE IN THE FAMILY
WHO CAN GET IN THE VATS.

IT'S YEAST THAT MAKES THE WINE,

BUT IF THERE'S EVEN A TRACE
OF A YEAST YOU DON'T WANT,

IT'LL SPOIL THE NEXT BATCH.

- [speaking French]

narrator:
ISABEL'S BROTHER, ARNAUD,

SHARES THE WORK WITH HER.

EVERYTHING EXCEPT
GETTING INTO THE VATS, THAT IS.

RUNNING THE WHOLE OPERATION
IS JACQUES DIEBOLT,

ISABELLE AND ARNAUD'S FATHER.

HE'S THE BOSS,

BUT THAT DOESN'T MEAN
HE WON'T GET HIS HANDS DIRTY.

JACQUES DIEBOLT'S BEEN MAKING
CHAMPAGNE FOR OVER 50 YEARS...

AND HIS FAMILY FOR MORE
THAN 100.

- OKAY.

narrator:
THE FINAL JOB OF THE DAY,

TASTING THE ROSE,

THE PINK CHAMPAGNE THAT'LL BE
NEXT TO GO INTO THE BOTTLE.

- [speaking French]

- [speaking French]

[conversing in French]

narrator: ONE OF THE PERKS
OF THIS TRADE

IS THAT YOU CAN ENJOY
THE FINISHED PRODUCT

ON A FRIDAY AFTERNOON,

WHETHER YOU'RE ONE
OF THE FAMILY

OR A REGULAR EMPLOYEE.

- [speaking French]

- [speaking French]

narrator: AT 7:00 P.M.,

MARTINE IS INVITED
TO THE DIEBOLT'S FOR DINNER.

HERE, THE ENTIRE FAMILY
WILL SIT DOWN

TO A FOUR-COURSE MEAL...

[doorbell rings]

AND ENJOY THE FRUITS
OF THE FAMILY LABOR.

- OH, MARTINE!

[conversing in French]

- [speaking French]

- [speaking French]

[conversing in French]

- [speaking French]

narrator: THE DAY
AFTER THE DINNER PARTY,

JACQUES DIEBOLT TOOK MARTINE
TO HIS FAVORITE VINEYARD,

LES PIMONTS.

- [speaking French]

narrator: HISTORY HAUNTS
THE CHAMPAGNE REGION

LIKE A GHOST AT A PARTY.

YOU'D THINK THE HISTORY
WOULD BE COLORFUL AND FUN.

THIS IS CHAMPAGNE, AFTER ALL.

BUT THAT'S THE IRONY.

IT'S NOT.

NO ONE WHO LIVES HERE
CAN EASILY FORGET

WHAT HAPPENED
IN THE PAST CENTURY,

OR INDEED,
IN THE PAST 2,000 YEARS.

IT'S A TALE OF WAR AND DEATH
ON AN UNIMAGINABLE SCALE.

THESE HILLS AND THE SURROUNDING
PLAINS ARE DRENCHED IN BLOOD.

- [speaking French]

- [speaking French]

narrator: ATTILA THE HUN
SWEPT IN FROM THE EAST

TO OCCUPY THESE OPEN PLAINS
1,500 YEARS AGO.

HE WAS HANDED HIS FIRST
AND ONLY DEFEAT

BY THE GAULS AND ROMANS HERE.

AND SO IT BEGAN:

THE HUNDRED YEARS' WAR,

THE NAPOLEONIC WAR,

THE FRANCO-PRUSSIAN WAR,

AND WORST OF ALL,
THE FIRST WORLD WAR.

THE SCALE OF THE SLAUGHTER
WAS IMMENSE.

FOR THREE YEARS,
THE BATTLEFRONT OF THE MARNE

MOVED TO AND FRO OVER AN AREA
OF LESS THAN 30 MILES

AT THE FRONTIER OF CHAMPAGNE.

[gunshots and muffled yelling]

[explosions]

[explosion]

- [speaking French]

narrator: THIS PYRAMID,
CONSTRUCTED IN 1923,

CONTAINS AN OSSUARY:

THE BONES OF AT LEAST
10,000 UNNAMED SOLDIERS

ARE BURIED DEEP UNDERNEATH.

TO ONE SIDE,
YOU CAN STILL SEE THE REMAINS

OF SOME OF THE TRENCHES.

IT IS DEDICATED TO THE DEAD
OF THE ARMIES OF CHAMPAGNE.

[intense music]

*

IN EARLY APRIL 2012,

THE SUN DISAPPEARED
FROM NORTHEASTERN FRANCE

FOR ALMOST THREE MONTHS.

[horn blaring]

THE CHAMPAGNE MAKERS,
FAMILIAR WITH BAD WEATHER,

WENT TO GROUND.

THERE'S ALWAYS WORK TO BE DONE
IN THE CELLARS.

CHRISTIAN COQUILETTE,
THE FATHER OF STEPHANE,

STILL RUNS HIS OWN WINERY,
THOUGH HE'S NOW IN HIS 80s.

THE JEWEL IN THE CROWN
IS HIS CELLAR.

HE'S BEEN MAKING CHAMPAGNE
FOR MORE THAN 60 YEARS,

AND MUCH OF THE PRODUCT
IS DOWN HERE.

3/4 OF A MILLION BOTTLES,
MORE OR LESS,

ALL SLOWLY MATURING UNDER
THE ANCIENT 24 VOLT LIGHTS.

YOU MIGHT THINK
THAT THIS LABYRINTH

WAS SOMETHING EXCEPTIONAL:

WINE AS FAR AS THE EYE CAN SEE,

STRETCHING UNDER SEVERAL
CITY BLOCKS IN EPERNAY.

BUT IT'S ONLY ONE
OF HUNDREDS OF CELLARS

IN CHAMPAGNE COUNTRY,

AS HISTORIAN
PIERRE CHEVAL EXPLAINS.

- [speaking French]

narrator:
CHRISTIAN COQUILETTE HAS

ALMOST HALF A MILE OF CELLARS.

BUT THE BOTTLES
DON'T JUST SIT HERE.

THEY NEED CONSTANT ATTENTION

TO KEEP THE CHAMPAGNE CLEAR
WITHOUT A TRACE OF SEDIMENT.

- [speaking French]

narrator: YOU HAVE TO ENSURE
THAT THE SEDIMENT ENDS UP

ON THE CAP OF THE BOTTLE
SO IT CAN BE REMOVED LATER.

SO EVERY BOTTLE IS PLACED
IN A SPECIAL RACK

AND GENTLY TURNED.

IT'S CALLED REMUAGE.

- [speaking French]

narrator:
THERE ARE 750,000 BOTTLES HERE,

AND MOST OF THEM NEED
CONSTANT TURNING.

- [speaking French]

[whistles and claps]

narrator:
IN A SMALL, LOCKED ROOM,

IN THE FURTHEST CORNER
OF THE CELLAR

ARE CHRISTIAN'S
SPECIALLY PRIZED BOTTLES,

THE WORK OF A LIFETIME.

- [speaking French]

narrator: CHRISTIAN STARTED
WHEN HE WAS A BOY IN THE 1940s

AND TOOK ONE
OF HIS MOTHER'S WINES

TO AN INTERNATIONAL COMPETITION.

- [speaking French]

narrator: ABOVE GROUND,
THE WEATHER WAS DREADFUL:

COLD AND RAINY RIGHT THROUGH
APRIL AND INTO MAY.

HOW CAN ANYONE PRODUCE
DECENT WINE IN THESE CONDITIONS?

WELL, THAT'S A QUESTION

THAT HAS PREOCCUPIED
THE CHAMPENOIS FOR GENERATIONS,

AND THAT'S WHY THEY INSIST
ON TIGHT CONTROL

OF EVERYTHING IN CHAMPAGNE.

THERE ARE RULES FOR CELLARING,

RULES FOR THE HARVEST,

RULES FOR PRUNING THE VINES.

THE RULES ARE SET BY THE C.V.C.:

THE CORPORATION
OF CHAMPAGNE WINEMAKERS.

ITS PRESIDENT IS
JEAN-PIERRE PARISOT.

- [speaking French]

narrator:
THESE AREN'T SIMPLY PROCEDURES;

THESE ARE RULES,

AND THAT'S WHY YOU SEE ENDLESS
ROWS OF VINES IN CHAMPAGNE

ALL PRUNED AND TRIMMED
IN EXACTLY THE SAME WAY,

LIKE SOLDIERS ON PARADE.

THERE'S NO ROOM FOR FECKLESS,
BURGUNDY-STYLE CREATIVITY HERE.

- [speaking French]

narrator: A SUNDAY
IN EARLY JUNE: A BEAUTIFUL DAY.

[church bells ringing]

IN THE VILLAGE OF AVIZE,

THEY'RE CELEBRATING
THE FIRST COMMUNION

OF A DOZEN
OF THE LOCAL CHILDREN.

IT'S AN IMPORTANT MOMENT.

THEY'RE OFFICIALLY GROWING UP
AND WELCOMED INTO THE COMMUNITY.

THE DIEBOLT FAMILY ARE CATHOLIC,

THOUGH IT'S JACQUES
WHO REALLY TAKES IT SERIOUSLY.

PATTERNS OF LIFE HAVE CHANGED
VERY LITTLE IN RURAL FRANCE

SINCE THE FRENCH REVOLUTION
MORE THAN 200 YEARS AGO.

SUNDAY IS STILL A SACRED DAY.

NO WORK FOR MOST PEOPLE.

- [speaking French]

narrator: JACQUES TAKES MARTINE
FOR A SPIN IN HIS NEW S.U.V.,

THE PRIDE OF THE FAMILY--

WELL, OF JACQUE'S, CERTAINLY.

HERE IN CHAMPAGNE,
SUNDAY OR NO SUNDAY,

THERE'S WORK TO BE DONE.

WHEN THE SUN COMES OUT
AFTER A LONG PERIOD OF RAIN

IS WHEN MILDEW HITS THE VINES.

IT SIMPLY DOESN'T MATTER
WHAT YOUR PLANS WERE.

YOU HAVE TO CANCEL EVERYTHING

AND GO AND SEE
WHAT'S HAPPENING IN THE FIELDS.

- [speaking French]

[tractor rumbling]

narrator: BAD SUMMERS
DEMAND EXTREME MEASURES.

- [speaking French]

narrator:
MORNING, NOON, AND NIGHT,

ALL THROUGH THE SUMMER OF 2012,

THE WINEMAKERS HAD TO TREAT
THE VINES.

- [speaking French]

narrator: THE ENTIRE CROP
IS AT RISK,

AND NO TOOL IN THE TOOLBOX
IS LEFT UNUSED.

AT THE END OF 2012,

THE CHAMPAGNE MAKERS
FINALLY DECIDED

THAT CROP DUSTING
FROM THE AIR WAS A STEP TOO FAR.

IT'S TOO HARD TO CONTROL.

THERE'LL BE NO MORE HELICOPTERS
SPRAYING THE VINES

OF CHAMPAGNE IN THE FUTURE.

[conversing in French]

narrator: BUT THE PROBLEMS
DON'T MAGICALLY DISAPPEAR.

ARNAUD AND ISABELLE DIEBOLT NEED
TO INSPECT EVERY SINGLE VINE

THEY OWN TO CHECK FOR BUGS
AND STOP THE ROT FROM STARTING.

[conversing in French]

narrator: THE SAME PROBLEMS ARE
FACING ALL THE CHAMPAGNE MAKERS.

MAISON GOSSET
IS A HIGHLY RESPECTED HOUSE

BASED IN THE HEART OF EPERNAY.

IT'S DEPUTY DIRECTOR
IS ODILON DE VARINE BOHAN.

- [speaking French]

narrator: MAISON GOSSET
IS A NEGOCIANT,

MEANING IT DOESN'T OWN
ANY VINES.

IT BUYS GRAPES
FROM LOCAL GROWERS.

GOSSET'S CHIEF WINEMAKER
IS JEAN-PIERRE MARAIGNER.

- [speaking French]

narrator: IT'S THE 20TH OF JUNE,
A MIDSUMMER'S EVE,

ANOTHER DAY OF SUNSHINE
IN EPERNAY.

[low thrum of conversation]

SUMPTUOUS MEALS
ARE BEING PLANNED ALL OVER TOWN.

IT'S PARTY TIME.

THE GONET-MEDEVILLES
HAVE A HOUSE

ON THE AVENUE DE CHAMPAGNE,

THE BEST ADDRESS IN EPERNAY.

XAVIER GONET'S 40TH BIRTHDAY
PARTY IS BEING SET UP.

HE HAD HIS BALLOON RIDE
THIS MORNING,

AND NOW
THERE'LL BE MORE CHAMPAGNE.

- [speaking French]

narrator:
BOUCHON IS THE FAMILY DOG.

BOUCHON MEANS "CORK,"

AND HE'S CERTAINLY SEEN
A FEW OF THOSE

BEING POPPED IN THIS HOUSE.

OLD FRIENDS ARE HERE TO SHARE
SOME OF THE VERY BEST WINES

THE GONET FAMILY HAS PRODUCED
OVER THE LAST 40 YEARS.

WHEN XAVIER'S WIFE, JULIA,
ARRIVED FROM BORDEAUX,

SHE WAS ASTONISHED BY HOW MUCH
THEY ENJOY THEIR WINE HERE.

- [speaking French]

[upbeat, jazzy music]

*

- [speaking French]

- [speaking French]

[conversing in French]

narrator: SOON ENOUGH,
THE SUN DISAPPEARED AGAIN.

THERE WAS NO END
TO THE BAD WEATHER.

[lightning crackling]

WHEN MARTINE WENT
TO SEE THE COQUILETTES,

STEPHANE WAS NOT OPTIMISTIC.

- [speaking French]

- [speaking French]

narrator: AT THE DIEBOLTS',
WORK STARTS BEFORE DAWN.

ISABELLE WILL BE IN CHARGE
OF THE GRAPE PICKING,

AND HER BROTHER, ARNAUD, WILL
RUN THINGS BACK AT THE WINERY.

THERE'S A HURRY
BECAUSE THIS IS THE FIRST DAY

THEY'RE ALLOWED
TO PICK AT CRAMANT

UNDER THE HARVEST RULES.

IT'S GOOD WEATHER,
AND YOU DON'T WANT TO WASTE IT.

MOST OF THE GRAPE PICKERS
ARE FROM TURKEY OR ALGERIA

AND SOME FROM MUCH FURTHER SOUTH
IN AFRICA.

- [speaking French]

- [speaking French]

[conversing in French]

[phone rings]

narrator: THEY HAVE
LESS THAN A WEEK

TO PICK EVERYTHING
IN THE CRAMANT AREA.

EACH VILLAGE IS GIVEN DATES
TO START AND DATES TO STOP

SO THAT NO ONE CAN GAIN
A SPECIAL ADVANTAGE:

MORE RULES.

IN CHAMPAGNE, THE MORE YOU PICK,
THE MORE YOU EARN...

UNLESS, THAT IS,
YOU'RE PART OF THE FAMILY.

AT HARVEST TIME,

THE GONET-MEDEVILLES
BRING THEIR CHILDREN

ACROSS FROM BORDEAUX
WHERE THEY GO TO SCHOOL

SO THEY CAN BE PART
OF THE ACTION,

AT LEAST FOR ONE WEEKEND.

- [speaking French]

- [speaking French]

- [speaking French]

[conversing in French]

narrator:
SO FAR IN THE PROCESS,

WINEMAKING IN CHAMPAGNE IS MUCH
LIKE MAKING WINE ANYWHERE ELSE

BUT WITH MORE RULES.

BUT NOW IT'S TIME
TO CRUSH THE GRAPES,

AND THIS IS WHERE THINGS
GET VERY DIFFERENT.

AT THE COQUILETTES,

THEY PUT TOGETHER
A TRADITIONAL CHAMPAGNE PRESS.

CHRISTIAN COQUILETTE
IS IN CHARGE

OF WEIGHING THE GRAPES.

THIS IS CRUCIAL.

YOU ARE REQUIRED BY LAW
TO KNOW THE EXACT WEIGHT.

THE RULES INSIST
THAT 100 POUNDS OF GRAPES

MUST PRODUCE ONLY 8 GALLONS
OF JUICE

IF YOU WANT TO CALL
THAT JUICE CHAMPAGNE ONE DAY.

THERE'S PLENTY TO FIGURE OUT.

A TRADITIONAL CHAMPAGNE PRESS

HOLDS ALMOST 9,000 POUNDS
OF GRAPES,

SO YOU'RE ONLY ALLOWED
TO SQUEEZE OUT

A LITTLE OVER 700 GALLONS...

AND THAT MUST BE DONE
VERY, VERY GENTLY.

CHRISTIAN COQUILETTE'S SON,
STEPHANE,

KNOWS THAT THE ENEMY
OF GOOD WINE IS HASTE.

- [speaking French]

narrator: BUT IN CHAMPAGNE,
OF COURSE,

THE PROCESS IS MORE COMPLICATED
THAN THAT.

THERE ARE OFFICIALLY
THREE GRADES OF JUICE.

THE FIRST JUICE
THAT'S SQUEEZED FROM THE GRAPES

WILL BE CLEAREST
AND MOST DELICATE.

IT'S CALLED THE VIN DE CUVEE,

AND IT RUNS
INTO ITS OWN SPECIAL TANK.

ONCE THAT TANK IS FULL,

THE WINEMAKER MUST CHANNEL
THE REMAINING JUICE

INTO A SECOND TANK.

THIS IS OFFICIALLY CONSIDERED
GOOD, BUT NOT QUITE SO GOOD,

AND IT'LL MATURE
IN A DIFFERENT VAT.

NOW THEY'RE ALLOWED
TO RAKE UP THE GRAPES

AND GIVE THEM A SECOND CRUSH.

BUT AGAIN, THERE ARE RULES.

THEY'RE ONLY PERMITTED TO GET
176 GALLONS FROM THIS PRESSING.

THE COQUILETTES DON'T THINK MUCH
OF THIS SECOND CRUSHED JUICE.

THEY SELL IT
TO THE BIG CHAMPAGNE HOUSES,

AND THEY USE IT
IN THEIR LESS EXPENSIVE BRANDS.

AND WHAT HAPPENS
TO THE CAKE THAT REMAINS?

THERE'S STILL JUICE IN IT,

BUT YOU'RE NOT ALLOWED
TO USE IT TO MAKE CHAMPAGNE.

IT'S SHIPPED OFF
TO MAKE INDUSTRIAL ALCOHOL.

STEPHANE'S WINERY IS JUST
UP THE ROAD FROM HIS FATHER'S.

IT'S LARGER AND MORE MODERN--

MORE OF A SMALL FACTORY--

BUT THE CRUSHING
IS JUST AS DELICATE.

THERE AREN'T TOO MANY GRAPES
THIS YEAR,

BUT THE BEST OF THEM
ARE REALLY GOOD.

- [speaking French]

narrator: AT MAISON GOSSET
IN EPERNAY,

LIFE AT THIS STAGE OF
THE WINEMAKING IS MUCH SIMPLER.

THEY DON'T HAVE ANY CRUSHERS

BECAUSE THEY DON'T OWN
ANY VINES.

THEY RECEIVE FRESHLY CRUSHED
GRAPE JUICE FROM THEIR SUPPLIERS

ALL ACROSS THE CHAMPAGNE REGION.

- [speaking French]

narrator: THE FIRST JOB IS
TO CHECK WHAT'S IN THE TRUCK:

GRAPE VARIETY AND PROVENANCE.

THEN THEY CHECK SUGAR CONTENT,
ACIDITY--ALL THE DETAILS.

FINALLY, IT'S JUST A QUESTION
OF GETTING THE JUICE

INTO REFRIGERATED VATS
AS SOON AS POSSIBLE.

NEW TRUCKS ARRIVE AT GOSSET
EVERY FIVE MINUTES

AT THE HEIGHT OF THE HARVEST.

THE TRICK IS TO KNOW
WHICH JUICE IS WHICH

AND WHERE IT'S GOING
IN THIS MAZE OF VATS.

IT'S A RACE AGAINST TIME
TO GET THE JUICE INTO THE VATS

BECAUSE IT'S ALREADY FERMENTING.

- [speaking French]

narrator: ACROSS THE RIVER
IN AMBONNAY,

IT'S THE VERY LAST DAY YOU'RE
PERMITTED TO PICK THE GRAPES.

XAVIER GONET HAS WAITED
AS LATE AS POSSIBLE

TO GET HIS PINOT NOIRS RIPE.

NOW HE HAS TO TURN OUT
WITH THE FAITHFUL BOUCHON,

NO MATTER WHAT THE CONDITIONS.

[rain pattering]

- [speaking French]

- [speaking French]

narrator: IT'S JUST TURNED
9:00 IN THE MORNING,

BUT IT COULD BE 9:00 AT NIGHT.

THE INCESSANT RAIN IS TURNING
THE FIELDS INTO A MUD BATH

REMINISCENT OF THE TRENCHES
IN WORLD WAR I.

AT BOLLINGER,
WE'RE IN A DIFFERENT WORLD.

EVERYTHING'S UNDER CONTROL
IN THE MAIN WINERY.

THEY MAY HAVE
A QUAINT BARREL-MAKER

WORKING AWAY AT THE OLD HOUSE,

BUT HERE, VIRTUALLY EVERYTHING
IS AUTOMATED.

[clattering and squeaking]

THE ENTIRE CRUSHING OPERATION
AT BOLLINGER

IS RUN BY ONE MAN
FROM A CENTRAL CONTROL ROOM.

GIANT COMPUTERIZED
CRUSHERS HANDLE

EVEN THE MOST EXCEPTIONAL
GRAPES.

THE JUICE WILL BE ALLOWED
TO STAND FOR UP TO A DAY

TO ALLOW ANY SEDIMENT
TO SETTLE,

AND THEN THAT'S IT

FOR THE HARVEST OF 2012
AT BOLLINGER.

[cork popping]

[cheers and laughter]

AT THE DIEBOLT'S,

THERE'S A MODEST
END-OF-HARVEST CELEBRATION

CALLED LE COCHELET.

TONIGHT IS THE FIRST TIME

THAT ARNAUD'S 16-YEAR-OLD
DAUGHTER PHILIPPINE

HAS EVER OPENED A MAGNUM.

- [speaking French]

[cheers and applause]

- [speaking French]

- [speaking French]

narrator: THIS IS CHERKLEY COURT
NEAR LONDON.

ONCE A REFUGE
FOR WINSTON CHURCHILL

IN WORLD WAR II,

THE HOUSE IS NOW A COUNTRY CLUB,
AND TONIGHT,

THE CHAMPAGNE MAKERS
ARE PRESENTING THEIR WINES

TO BRITISH CUSTOMERS.

- SO IT'S A BLEND BETWEEN
AMBONNAY AND LE MESNIL-SUR-OGER,

TWO FAMOUS VILLAGE IN CHAMPAGNE.

ONE IS ONE OF THE BEST
FOR CHARDONNAY,

LE MESNIL-SUR-OGER;

AND THE OTHER ONE IS ONE
OF THE BEST FOR PINOT NOIR.

- [speaking French]

narrator: BUT IT WASN'T
JUST ENGLISH TECHNOLOGY

THAT SHAPED CHAMPAGNE;

IT WAS ENGLISH TASTE.

- [speaking French]

- I THOUGHT THIS EVENING
WE WOULD END

WITH BOLLINGER LA GRANDE ANNEE
ROSE 2004.

AND, FOR ME, THIS IS
MADAME BOLLINGER'S LITTLE GIFT

FROM HEAVEN 'CAUSE I THINK
IT'S ABSOLUTELY DIVINE.

IT'S SOMETHING
VERY, VERY SPECIAL.

YOU'LL SEE
A VERY SORT OF GENTLE SORT

OF SALMON PINK COLOR...

AND IT JUST GOES WONDERFULLY
WITH CHEESE.

IT'S JUST--THE ACIDITY--
THE ACIDITY OF THE CUT FRUIT--

IT'S A WONDERFUL MARRIAGE,

SO I CAN
THOROUGHLY RECOMMEND IT.

- VERY DRINKABLE.
THAT'S MY FAVORITE.

- [speaking French]

narrator: BUT HOW DO YOU CREATE
THAT CONSISTENCY OF TASTE

YEAR IN, YEAR OUT?

DURING THE WINTER,

CHAMPAGNE MAKERS
SELECT THE MIX OF WINES

WHICH WILL GO INTO THE VARIOUS
NON-VINTAGE BRANDS THEY OFFER.

- [speaking French]

narrator: BLENDING IS THE SECRET
TO SUCCESS.

THE DIEBOLTS GROW
THEIR OWN GRAPES,

BUT THE RATIO OF PINOT NOIR
TO PINOT MEUNIER

OR TO CHARDONNAY,

OR THE MIX BETWEEN
ONE VINEYARD AND ANOTHER

IS THEIR DECISION.

THE QUESTION IS,
HOW DO THEY DECIDE?

- [speaking French]

- [speaking French]

- [speaking French]

[conversing in French]

narrator: ACROSS THE RIVER
IN THE TOWN OF AY

IS MAISON GOSSET'S LABORATORY.

WINEMAKER AND CHIEF SORCERER
JEAN-PIERRE MARAIGNER

IS PREPARING ONE OF HIS BLENDS.

- [speaking French]

narrator: THE RULES SAY
YOU CAN USE WINES

FROM THREE DIFFERENT YEARS
TO MAKE A BLEND.

IF YOU'VE JUST HAD
A BAD HARVEST,

THAT'S REALLY HELPFUL
TO MAINTAIN QUALITY

AND A SIMILAR HOUSE STYLE.

SO GREAT IS THE NUMBER
OF GOSSET'S SUPPLIERS

AND THEIR MANY, MANY VINEYARDS

THAT THIS GIVES JEAN-PIERRE
A CHOICE OF MORE THAN 200 WINES

THAT HE COULD ADD
TO THE MIXTURE.

- [speaking French]

narrator:
ONCE THE WINE IS BLENDED,

YOU HAVE TO ADD TWO THINGS
TO CREATE THE BUBBLES:

A LITTLE MORE YEAST
AND A TOUCH MORE SUGAR AND WINE.

THE MIXTURE WILL BE
JUST POTENT ENOUGH

TO PROVOKE A SECOND FERMENTATION
IN THE BOTTLE...

BUT NOT TOO POTENT OR ELSE
THE BOTTLES WILL EXPLODE.

NOW THE WINE IS BOTTLED
WITH THE EXTRA YEAST AND SUGAR,

AND THE CREATION
OF CHAMPAGNE BEGINS.

INSIDE EACH OF THESE BOTTLES,
THE BUBBLES ARE FORMING.

BUT CHAMPAGNE
MUSTN'T ONLY SPARKLE;

IT MUST BE CLEAR--
NOT A TRACE OF SEDIMENT.

THAT'S WHY THE BOTTLES
HAVE TO BE GENTLY TURNED

FOR A WHOLE YEAR.

YOU CAN TURN
100,000 BOTTLES A DAY...

AND THEN THE FINAL BIT OF MAGIC.

- [speaking French]

narrator:
ALMOST READY:

CORK, MUZZLE, EVERYTHING.

- [speaking French]

narrator: IT TAKES
AT LEAST A YEAR OF WAITING

FOR THE BUBBLES TO BE PERFECT,

AND THEN ONE DAY,
THERE'LL BE A SPECIAL EVENT,

AND IT'LL BE TIME ONCE MORE
TO ORDER CHAMPAGNE.

[corks popping]

- [speaking French]

- [speaking French]

- [speaking French]