Original subtitles

it's hard to believe that a few months ago,

the first wave of Covid-19 emptied the streets of Naples

and Italy was in lockdown.

Good thing I arrived soon moment of normality.

Restaurants are open

and masks are not mandatory on the street.

And we will obey local rules.

Npoles an exciting city.

The moment it arrives, is engulfed

through magnificent chaos.

And it's no use fighting it.

People here do things in your own way.

Get the energy of New York,

mix the elegance from New Orleans,

add 3 thousand years of history,

and cook in the heat of the volcano most famous in the world.

This is Naples.

I'm Stanley Tucci. I am an Italian from my father and mother,

and I'm traveling through Italy to find out how food

in each of the 20 regions of this country,

is as unique as people and your past.

In the south we are used to to fight.

This place can be despised like Italy's poor cousin.

Stanley, is it possible to have a gem? everywhere in the world? No!

But the people who live in this region,

has its own way of doing it things.

For me this is our philosophy.

This is our tradition.

Give the world your favorite food.

Pizza Margherita.

Just don't forget where it was invented.

- Florence. - But like Florence? Naples.

We're in Naples! Damn you!

Stanley Tucci: Searching for Italy

S01E01 | Naples and the Amalfi Coast

Mrs. Bennett | TatiSaaresto | Henderson | TinTin

Helo | Rayusca | Mario | Nani | TKDion

Review: Mrs.Bennet

If pizza were to be born somewhere,

it would be here, in Naples.

Beautiful!

The city is hot, fast, and a feast for the senses.

Npoles is located in Campnia.

the unofficial capital from southern Italy.

And it's even older than Rome.

is a region of volcanic landscapes,

magic islands

and the world famous Amalfi Coast.

The southern sun nourishes tomatoes that provoke envy in the world.

And in the hills, buffaloes produce milk

for better muarella.

But pizza wasn't born in the lush hills.

It came from the darkest and poor streets of Naples.

And your story combines two Italy's favorite topics,

food and death.

Vesvio erupting.

Italy's historic volcano

explodes in the scariest and devastating eruption.

At least once in the century is prone to it.

FRYING PAN TO THE OVEN

The volcano is like a perennial threat, no?

because it is in the landscape.

You can always see it. He always has...

Got him on your mind and in his eyes.

Professor Elisabetta Moro

is one of the 3 million of Neapolitans

who live in the shadow of the mighty volcano.

people are obsessed with the possibility of dying,

because there is a volcano, there are earthquakes.

- Yea. - Because there are epidemics.

- Yea. - So it's pretty hard for them.

Life can be hard in this volatile city.

No wonder that wherever in Naples,

see sanctuaries made by hand,

keeping a shining light for deceased loved ones.

all over town if you see this.

Yes. They are included in the city's architecture.

You know, these are temples of memory.

- Right. - Remember people

from your family or your friends,

especially young people who died.

Coming from a family from southern Italy,

death has always been an issue.

I remember that my grandmother I called my mother,

my mother would pick up the phone and said...

- "Do you know who died?" - Yes, exactly!

- That was it. - My grandmother used to do the same.

But it was also a way to feel alive.

Elizabetta is showing me the historic part of the city.

For hundreds of years, the poorest in Naples

were crammed these narrow streets.

Terrible sanitation meant that your life

could be taken from you suddenly,

by the brutal epidemic of that time, the choler.

People were scared.

because it was an epidemic more or less

- like the Covid-19 virus. - Yea.

- Could transmit easily. - Yes Right.

The choler has spread for water and food.

People here cooked pieces of bread in hot oil.

So the frying It's simpler.

It's simpler. It's easy.

you can get a very good degree of hygiene,

why fry It really sterilizes everything.

It was probably a of the few times in life

where to fry something may have been healthy.

So it's here are we going to eat fried pizza?

- It's fine. Ciao. - Do you want pizza?

- Yes, always. - How do you like it?

A fried pizza with ricotta for me.

The real one Neapolitan pizza.

Small?

- Little one. - Small.

- Okay, so... - Ricotta.

- Pizza. Ricotta. - Ricotta.

- "Provola". - It's a smoked cheese.

Pork fat.

Basil? beautiful.

This is the original from Naples.

After proving it, you will never leave him.

there is a century that her family does that.

- So... - Is there a century?

There is a century.

These streets were once full from places like this.

But Fernanda is now the last from a historical lineage.

For how long should fry?

Only I know how long.

- It's a family secret. - When it turns golden.

Gold, no?

It gets stewed, doesn't it?

That's the trick.

It's beautiful.

Right. Thanks. Thanks.

- You're welcome. - Thank you, Fernanda.

ready?

This delicious piece of history,

was pizza, before pizza was pizza.

How...

- With the pork and the Ricotta. - It's tasty.

As we burn some calories,

Elizabetta tells me how pizza was born on these streets.

With starters pretty unpretentious.

what did they do was to sell bread,

with a little fat on,

sometimes pepper,

because people they were very poor.

So, at a certain point,

the people here invented pizza.

But for many years, it was just something Neapolitan,

a Neapolitan dish.

because anger played an important role.

Yes, it did.

It had for centuries.

Fortunately for us, at the end of the 19th century,

Italian prejudice against Naples and his food,

began to change.

And Elizabetta takes me to the place, where according to legend,

in 1889 the Italian Queen ordered a pizza,

who would later bear her name,

Margherita.

Do you make pizza at home?

- In Naples it Is almost a crime. - There's no reason.

the only problem it was during the lockdown.

All pizzerias closed.

It was terrible.

You know, on the first day,

after lockdown,

60 thousand pizzas were made.

- On the same day. - Seriously?

Yes. And it wasn't enough,

because everyone wanted pizza.

- Were they desperate? - Yea.

first pizza, then vaccine.

On the streets of Naples,

pizza grew from of a pandemic,

and sustained the city during another.

What was born in a place consumed by death,

now it is a food that everyone consider wonderful.

In the city of pizza chefs,

there is a man whose reputation,

It's so big in the city, as Vesvio.

Two Margheritas. Buffalo mozzarella.

Enzo Coccia, created the standard recognized globally,

to make the best pizza Neapolitan in the world.

And he was the first pizza maker,

to be recognized by the Michelin guide.

Enzo?

Finally.

What a pleasure! Welcome to Naples.

- I can't. - We can't...

The only thing he loves more than pizza,

It is Naples itself.

This is my city.

Florence!

But like Florence? Naples!

We're in Naples!

Damn you!

IN SEARCH OF PIZZA

Before he prepares a pizza,

the conductor needs go shopping.

And when in Campnia, who needs a store,

when can you go direct to the source?

Buffaloes were brought in to plow the soil of southern italian

by Arab conquerors, almost a thousand years ago.

And every morning very early,

your milk is transformed in the most refined mozzarella.

Hi, Mimmo!

First, let's put on the cap and everything.

Even though I'm bald?

Yes, put it on anyway. It's going to be beautiful.

Beautiful.

Thank you.

This masked man Mimmo Lovecchia.

is known as one of the biggest cheesemakers in Italy.

As soon as the buffalo milk this morning is heated,

Mimmo, add chymosin,

to separate the curds and whey.

It's like a big brain.

The curd is cut and boiling water is added.

The result is incredible.

it's as if he were a magician.

Do you know what I'm talking about?

Now let's get to the cut.

In Italian "mozzare" means to cut off.

And that old process d the name of the cheese.

Becomes the "mozzarella".

The muarella rests in the brine for a few hours.

Different from other cheeses that improve over time,

muarela is better be fresh food.

The traditional V-shape means it's handmade.

That's great news for me.

Oh my God.

Cut,

if milk leaks,

you must buy.

Nowhere else in the world will eat a moarela like this.

Welcome to Campnia.

So, if you're going to do the best pizza in Naples,

since it has the best muarela

you need of the perfect tomato.

There's a place that is whispered in admiration,

for pizza fans from all over the world,

from Brooklyn Bangkok.

And Enzo is taking me there.

Now, let's see the real San Marzano,

that the whole world envy.

As a pizza lover, I only

buy cans of San Marzano tomatoes,

and now, I'm going It's the promised land.

Although I didn't expect a little farm under the highway.

We will meet with the supplier Enzo's Special,

Uncle Vincenzo.

Behind gates rusty,

I'm reminded that here in Italy,

treasures are found in the most unlikely places.

Stanley, these San Marzanos are very special,

because they have a shell extremely thin,

a nice juice and a residual acidity,

which is unique in the combination with mozzarella.

Not too acidic.

Not too acidic.

Not too sweet.

It's balanced.

And it's still juicy.

I ate San Marzano tomatoes in many parts of the world,

but this flavor alive and balanced

doesn't look like anything with the ones I've tried.

There is a real scandal over San Marzano.

The New York Times even spoke about it in your investigation.

the most tomato replicated around the world.

But the real San Marzano

grows in an area of just 150 hectares.

- Not much. - That's it.

- That's enough. - No more.

Because in everyone there are millions of cans...

it's all fake!

What's up San Marzano, but they are not.

Not San Marzano. no.

This is San Marzano.

I know, but I can't come here every day.

What can I do?

a quality product.

It is possible to have a gem everywhere in the world? No.

Yes I know. Impossible.

One night I can't fill up all pizzerias in Naples,

much less of the world.

Varieties using the name from San Marzano

are grown everywhere, from New Jersey to New Zealand,

but only the tomatoes grown here,

are nourished for the rich and nutritious soil,

given by our old friend, looming over the horizon.

- Is that Vesvio? - Yes, it's Vesvio.

In the eruption, it covered kilometers and kilometers of clay.

Without him, it wouldn't exist this gift from God.

This is for you, for pizza.

And this is for you. The best San Marzanos to make pizza.

- Thank you, Vincenzo. - I love you.

I want an answer, whether it's good or not, agreed?

After our shopping tour, we're back in town,

and finally, the maestro will do a pizza for me.

To prepare Neapolitan pizza we need

of four ingredients.

Pizzas produced on a large scale

always add sugar, fat and seasonings.

But in Naples it is only water, flour, salt, yeast.

And a lot of skill.

We take all the air and we make the border.

San Marzanos sauce of Uncle Vicenzo goes first,

We don't put in much.

Next, the creamy chunks buffalo mozzarella

to oppose the sweet acidity of tomatoes.

Remember, balance.

And the final touch.

We put the pecorino.

To add salinity.

- Basil. - And fragrance.

And then, in a matter of seconds,

the magic of food happens.

Stanley, 45 seconds and the pizza is ready.

I worked 40 years to learn how to do this.

Wow, look at that. Beautiful. Golden.

The smell. The smell.

My God.

The history of Naples on a plate.

- It's delicious. - Thank you..

It's perfect. Perfect. Perfect.

Pizza production is a tradition that we hope never dies.

And that the pizzaiolos of Naples always keep

the flame of pure and simple perfection, lit.

Pizza is for the whole world.

It's a gift. It is a gift to humanity.

And where were you born?

- In Naples. - In Naples!

Not in Naples.

- In Naples! - In Naples!

- In Naples! - Very good!

PROBLEM FERMENTING

So, this is not what it seems.

Let me explain. In this city,

Sometimes it seems that each is creating its own rules,

but somehow, the place is right.

Shall we have a coffee?

I will find the man that tries to maintain order here,

chief of the municipal police, Captain Capoano.

Three coffees, please.

In true Neapolitan style,

he wants to explain how it works, over coffee.

The "cuccumella", the famous "cuccumella".

Classic Neapolitan coffee.

We'll leave a "sorry".

The captain orders three coffees for both of us.

I imagine he I really like coffee.

- Are you right? - Thank you.

We leave it here.

- For the "suspended". Thanks. - Thank you very much.

But paying an extra coffee,

actually an important tradition here in Naples.

It's called a "sospeso caff".

When a person needy appears,

the coffee vendor give a free drink,

that the co-citizen paid previously.

This is the philosophy of the Neapolitan people.

Here, in our chaos, things work out.

- Health. - Greetings.

That's good.

People of Naples has unofficial forms

to help each other dating back centuries.

They donate essentials

like coffee, food, and even toys

families who cannot buy them.

Campland is the second region poorest in Italy,

and the help of the community s what some people have.

When that fails, the powerful Neapolitan mafia,

here known as Camorra

is ready to attack.

The problem is big and real.

We can't hide it.

And unfortunately, for years, the city

has been hostage of criminal groups.

Camorrista Mafia,

who recruit, mainly between...

among people who don't have than to live.

Let's not forget that Al Capone's family

came from the province from Naples.

Poverty and crime always were part of life in the city.

But in the 60s,

an experiment to improve things went terribly wrong.

8 km from the city center,

a new world was built.

It was called Scampia.

The poorest Neapolitans were taken from the dark slums,

for new homes futuristic.

But the dream it soon turned into a nightmare.

The place had no jobs no transport,

and the people here, were trapped.

The Camorra Gang entered where the state failed.

Drugs were sold on the streets

and things got so ugly, that even the police walked away.

Common residents stayed stuck in the middle.

Recently, a new chapter in the history of the neighborhood

began when hundreds of nomadic travelers,

so-called gypsies have arrived.

Nice to meet you. Stanley.

- Samantha. - Samantha.

They came from Eastern Europe and set up camp

under a highway here.

Where is the house?

- Is that one? - Yes.

The gypsies sought a better life in Italy

and made their home here,

despite not having access to running water or electricity.

For how long did you live here?

I'm here more than ten years ago.

My daughters were born here.

We've been here so long.

If you can't find a job, if you don't work,

can't make her kids have a good life.

All over the neighborhood,

thousands of people like Samantha

saw their lives being wasted,

unfairly labeled like criminals,

while the authorities ignored them.

However, this Naples

and people take care one of the others

in the most creative ways.

The kitchen was an instrument very powerful

to overcome stereotypes and also create jobs.

- Right. - and We decided

make a small revolution through the kitchen.

In a cabin on the edge from Scampia,

local activists, Emma and her friends,

saw that they had a talented community,

of Neapolitan women and gypsies,

each with traditions unique foods,

and decided to work things out on their own.

In the south we are used to to fight.

With or without the institution.

I think it's a quality from southern Italy.

That little idea became something surprising.

The cabin is past.

Now it's a restaurant and buffet called Chiku.

Located in a large building abandoned.

Samantha, who did I meet? at the gypsy camp,

was hired as a cook.

Your recipes became so popular

that stand out today in the menu.

This is used to make the "sarma".

- The "sarma"? - Yes.

- Cabbage is used in "sarma". - What's inside?

This stuffing is made of meat.

Then you put this inside savoy cabbage?

So this is Serbian?

from my country. We always eat at parties.

A little... oil.

And it goes in the oven.

Customers come to Scampia crossing the city

to try the delicious fusion

Neapolitan and Gypsy food that is created here.

This is Balkan "Moussaka",

with Neapolitan ingredients.

In this case, the "Moussaka"

- It's made with broccoli rabe. - Yes Yes.

The place does not receive government aid,

but success of the social enterprise,

allows them to offer a day care and education

to all the residents from Scampia.

Feel free!

- What is this? - "Sarma".

Couscous.

"Moussaka" with broccoli rabe.

This neighborhood still have problems,

but on of unimaginable desolation,

Chiku's volunteers

opened a place to mix food and talent.

Delicious. Delicious.

And create hope.

This is an experience amazing.

But the reality that you took

these two cultures and united them,

with a frying pan.

your generosity, thank you.

you.

To new encounters. Health.

The greatest joy in travel

is that sometimes you discover an unintentional place,

and he ends up staying with you for the rest of your life.

14 years ago, my deceased wife Kate and I,

we took a ferry from Naples to Ischia Island,

an hour away.

One night, we went to a family restaurant,

where they served dishes that we never expected to eat

on an island in the Gulf of Naples.

I always try to come back that I have a chance.

And the eldest of the family, Sylvia,

you'll meet me at the dock.

- Ciao. - Welcome.

- Nice to see you. - Yea.

Now let the adventure begin.

- are you ready? - I am.

TOGETHER AGAIN

Now, you might be thinking,

time for a nice walk

by the coast with tasty seafood.

But no.

This restaurant is, defiantly,

away from the shore crowd.

Through the woods.

And up the mountain.

ischia is one of the islands volcanoes near Naples.

Tourists started to come here in the 60's

to enjoy the hot springs.

But before, they were pirates

and foreign forces appearing on the beach.

Welcome.

So the families decided to live on high

in the safety of the mountains.

And instead of fishing...

they hunt... rabbits.

The place is full of them.

"Il coniglio all'ischitana".

It is famous throughout Italy.

In the US, we rarely eat rabbit,

but the delicious lean meat

attracts the crowd to this isolated restaurant.

But before we eat...

- want me to open it? - Yes please.

We have to get him.

What do they eat?

Leaves of trees of chestnut.

Above the restaurant, wild rabbits are caught

with a method resourceful and sustainable

that islanders use for centuries.

- We put it in there. - Everything?

Yes, everything.

A pit is dug near the rabbit hole,

and tasty food It is played to attract them.

Scented leaves and berries

are selected to add rabbit meat flavor.

- the taste of... - Appears In the meat.

- Yea. - Naturally.

So that's what you need to do jump in,

take one and...

I'll spare you the rest.

Sylvia's younger brother, Augustine,

runs the kitchen from Il Focolare.

He is great at highlighting the best flavors

from the wild game here.

He worked in the best restaurants

from New York and London.

But it came back to apply your techniques

in the traditional kitchen rustic.

Last time I saw him, I found him on the street in New York.

- Funny story. - He was bad.

Just kidding. But that was a long time ago.

- Yes it was. - But I love rabbit.

I cook a lot at home. And the thing about the rabbit,

It's not too fat.

- No fat. - No. This one is... No.

why this rabbit It's wild.

All right. We put olive oil.

- This oil is from squid? - Yes.

Garlic. That's enough.

Later, we started to put the rabbit.

- Don't you add the salt now? - No, later.

- Because... - Because it loses the fluid.

- the succulence. - Succulence, .

I liked that you put the whole head of garlic.

Now white wine.

Beautiful.

The ingredients are simple.

Tomatoes, herbs, garlic,

white wine and olive oil.

Knowing how to do the best with what you have

It's vital up here.

While the rabbit cooks, I noticed something I've never seen before.

The grandma of the family, Loretta,

is showing your grandson

how to tie tomatoes with vineyards from the region.

This is a natural way to preserve the tomato.

This is important during the winter,

to make bread with tomatoes,

the bruschetta or even the tomato salad.

I made a n.

See, he tied a knot. Perfect

Today, the restaurant is closed.

But I am honored to be invited to lunch.

the first time that the family joins

since her father passed away,

at the beginning of the year, during lockdown.

- Health. - A toast.

- To my daddy and to life. - life.

an exciting moment,

but also, one of celebration.

Oh my God.

Delicious like this food ,

traditional cuisine like this,

also tells you the history of a place.

How did they live and what was it like? important to them.

Since when if you can remember,

there is a rigid hierarchy

of how the squirrel rabbit is served.

So the thigh was the most important part,

and should be given to the patriarch, to the man.

In that case it is you, who is our guest.

Well, you are very kind. Thanks.

So the children were very respected too,

because they were the future.

Before there were workers of the field,

as there was a concept of work

so let's give it to Agostino the back.

Wait a minute, everyone will have a piece.

Are you one?

Unfortunately, in this traditional hierarchy,

the mother of the family stays with the neck and the skull.

This is the "scappuccio".

The neck. Right?

You can see how many stories can a rabbit count?

Traditional foods how does this connect us

and make us part of a bigger story.

Look how it's eating it all.

my daughter.

That's why, even today,

the families in Ischia meet every Sunday,

to enjoy a rabbit and lunch together.

life!

As if the imposing Vesvio's Majesty

and the volcanic islands not enough,

Campland has a final glory.

Just half an hour from Naples,

one of the most famous landscapes and fabulous of the planet begins.

The Amalfi Coast.

the scenario of thousands of romantic movies,

and unique vacations.

And home to a restaurant

where I had a simple dish of zucchini and pasta,

that honestly, changed my life.

I've wanted to go back for a while.

The family agreed in showing me how it's done.

My wife came to join to me.

And we are in one of the places most beautiful in the world.

What could go wrong?

THE PERFECT STORM

Right. There is a storm forecast that occurs once in a decade,

and everyone is seeking shelter.

But that doesn't stop the morning delivery,

coming from family farms in the hills.

Each item cultivated by the father, Cucumber.

Good morning!!

Pride this season,

the star of my favorite dish.

Zucchini.

The first time that I ate this dish

I crept into the kitchen

to start the recipe Pepin's daughter Antonia,

who manages the place.

Now we do it at home Spaghetti alla Norma

every week, but, It's never so good.

Chef Tommaso is giving me a master class.

And my wife, Felicity, came to here,

to ensure that we learn.

We came here two years ago.

that's why we are in this restaurant.

, we have done every day since then.

Basically every day.

- a favorite. amazing. - We love it.

everyone always thinks that has garlic or onion.

- Just the sweetness of the zucchini. - I know.

- Hang on. He already put it. - We lost.

- Excuse me. - So amateurs.

The sliced ​​zucchinis are fried in sunflower oil,

and this is ours first error.

We need three more liters than what we use at home.

It's frustrating to see him doing easily,

while we laboriously

we fry in a pan little.

- I know. So sad. - Lost hours.

- hours. Literally hours. - I know.

After frying, Tommaso leaves the zucchini

during the night to soften.

- do you put it In the fridge? - Yes Yes.

With oil and basil?

With oil and basil?

- I think We did it wrong. - We did everything wrong.

Tommaso then warms up the zucchini.

I'll show you. the zucchini now it's dropping everything.

Look at it. Incredible...

Beautiful.

And lastly, an ingredient that they hadn't even mentioned.

See, they put butter.

- So basically... - I asked your sister,

two years ago. I said, do they put butter?

Where is Antonia?

Is there butter?

Yes, some butter.

You didn't tell me that.

- I'm so upset. - are you allergic?

No, no!

I won't be upset. Let it go.

It was my mistake, my mistake.

- My God. - Just look at this.

Right. Maybe it wasn't on purpose, but then,

why wouldn't I keep such a good recipe for you?

people come here from all over the world

- Just for that. - for that?

- Yea. - How crazy.

Here's the spaghetti with zucchini.

- Deserves applause. - It's very exciting.

- Awesome. - My God.

- look at this. - 20 minutes of ecstasy.

Even better than i remember.

And such a... simple dish.

You make him so beautiful.

one of the best things that I've tasted. Thank you.

Thank you.

Antonia, thank you very much. Thanks.

Look at the wind.

- the sea Is almost black. - look at the sea.

Let's stay here eating carbs,

for five hours, great.

On any other day, this sunny spot

gets full of customers excited

to eat in one of the places most beautiful in the world.

But as the storm comes for the first time of the year,

each of the 300 customers expected for today, canceled.

night, Felicity, the team and I we are the only guests.

Instead of leaving that food amazing to be wasted,

they are having a feast for the brave ones still here.

While cooking works serenely,

the film crew helped me

capturing images of the famous Amalfi Coast

that you usually don't see in postcards.

Isn't it very pretty?

I know.

Until nature sends us running inside.

Hail rain.

A hail the size of an amalfitan lemon,

just dropped. Holy crap.

You know, I dreamed of having this place is just for me,

being served of bean dishes,

mushrooms and olives from the family farm,

fried squid, zucchini flower and mussels au gratin,

but I didn't expect it to be under these circumstances.

Here in Campnia, nature can be cruel,

but it can also be really very kind indeed.