Original subtitles

(upbeat music)

Series four of My Greek Odyssey

sees us traveling through the Southern Islands

of the Dodecanese.

From coast to Symi and Rhodes

all the way down to Kastellorizo.

It's a region of Greece with significant influence

from Asia Minor.

And landscapes, quite unlike other parts

of the Mediterranean.

The history is as dramatic as the scenery.

And of course the cuisine is unforgettable.

There's the cliche, beaches and wonderful people,

plus unique cultural elements

that give each destination its own personality.

In this episode,

I'm leaving the largest island in the group, Rhodes,

and heading east to one of the smallest, Kastellorizo.

It's in the farthest corner of Greece,

sitting just off the coast of Turkey.

I'll actually be popping across the Turkish mainland

while I'm there,

to show you a great little fishing town.

(drum playing) (people chattering)

If you caught the last episode,

you'll see me exploring the island of Rhodes.

It's a huge experience, but you know honestly,

it would take half a series to show you in detail.

But hopefully I gave you a good sense for the scope

of amazing things to see and do here.

It's an island that gets packed with tourists.

Most of which spend their days wandering

through the old town

and on just a handful of the beaches

the island has to offer.

The more intrepid travelers hit off the beach and track

to quite a patches of sand

or into the mountainous hop.

All that karate, guard flying,

jumping out of planes,

Everything here.

(upbeat music)

It's a place where you can get lost

in thousands of years of history,

learning about the incredible civilizations

that have left their mark on the island.

There are ruins from as early as the classical era,

as well as Hellenistic architecture.

But perhaps the period writers must find for

is medieval times.

When the Knights of St. John ruled the place.

(upbeat music)

Because I've been to Rhodes several times,

it was a relatively short visit.

My journey was taking us east

all the way to Kastellorizo.

It's around 125 kilometers from port to port,

which for Greece is a long way between islands.

We plan lengthy transits like this

around the best cruising conditions.

It makes it faster and a whole lot more pleasant

for my family and crew.

We couldn't have asked for better weather.

And I'd barely gotten through a few dozen pages

of my research and we were coming into the harbor.

I knew this wasn't Kastellorizo, before getting there

I had stopped at the tiny island of Ro.

Arriving into the bay, it's immediately apparent

that this is one of those special landmasses.

So small and remote from more touristy islands.

I had coming to tell a story of a patriotic sailor

who lived down Rhodes for 40 years.

She spent most of that time in isolation,

however, emerged as a national hero.

(upbeat music)

300 nautical miles to the south

is North Africa.

66 miles to the west

is Rhodes.

And only 2.6 miles north of us, is Turkey.

This is the tiny island of Ro,

but I didn't come here to visit Ro.

I came to pay tribute to a very special woman.

Despina Achladiotou,

born in 1893, lived most of her life on this island.

She got married.

Her husband passed away in the 40s.

And for the last 40 years of her life,

living here alone,

she raised and lowered the Greek flag every day.

It was her way of being a Patriot saying,

this island is mine,

there's nobody else here.

And the last since 1982, when she passed away,

there is nothing else left on the island of Ro,

except for some Hellenistic ruins, a watch tower

and her final resting place.

(soft music playing)

War is something nobody in this or any other region wants,

but centuries of neighboring scuffles have created

an air of tension that occasionally boils over.

In the 70s, Greece and Turkey went to war over Cyprus.

In the midst of regional strains,

a couple of Turkish journalists sailed to Ro

and raise the Turkish flag.

Locals from nearby islands heard about this

and set off to rise their own flag.

Arriving only to find the Greek flag was already flying.

Thanks to the selfless concern and courage of Despina.

Passing away in 1982, at the ripe old age of 92,

Despina was buried with full military honors.

In a sign of the highest respect,

a military outpost remains on the island,

continuing Despina's daily ritual

of raising and lowering the flag.

Commemorated on a national stand,

today she's just simply remembered as the Lady of Ro.

What a woman!

(soft music)

Now, we just left Ro after three and a half hour journey

and we've got another half hour to go.

That's a four hour journey all up.

This will be one of our longest journeys,

if not our longest journey

in the whole of My Greece Odyssey over the period

that we've been doing it.

And we're going to the outer extremities

of the Greek islands, Kastellorizo.

It's right in front of us.

That's Turkey right there, they're so close together.

And it's how far from Ro's is that?

Four hours, 70 nautical miles.

70 nautical miles.

The far Eastern most island of Greece.

We've done the furthest north.

We've done the furthest west.

Now we're doing the furthest east.

I'm really looking forward to it.

(upbeat music)

As we arrive in Kastellorizo,

one of our port site is Turkey.

Just a Stone's throw away.

Because the two are so close together,

there's a special relationship

that is developed between them.

It's important that you get along well with your neighbors.

And this I'll show you later.

These two are like the best of friends.

(upbeat music)

I'm extremely excited

because I've never been to Kastellorizo before

and I have a lot of Kastellorizian friends.

And they tell me that when you're coming

into the port of Kastellorizo, it parks out at you.

As you come in, you see it as you come in.

So we're not really seeing it yet,

apparently it's a mini Symi side.

Let's see.

(upbeat music)

Greeks always talk of their island of origin,

even if it's just a dusty rock in the middle of nowhere.

But as soon as we entered the port,

it was pretty obvious my Kaste friends

hadn't been exaggerating.

It really is like a mini Symi.

First impressions are that I'm in for a great finale

to this Greek of My Odyssey.

I can see what it is for who keeps coming back here.

It's beautiful.

(upbeat music)

At one stage over 10,000 people

called Kastie home.

And the Harbor was filled with sea planes.

This tiny port was a major aviation hub.

But saturation bombing by both the Germans and British,

decimated the island.

And those that didn't flee were forcefully evacuated.

After all that devastation,

the Kasties have shown amazing resilience.

coming back to rebuild their lives.

And returning their terrain

to be the envy of the Mediterranean.

The commercial and social relationship

with it neighboring Turkish port of Kas

is both an outlier in the region and a model

that many places around the world could learn from.

Those that were forced out in World War II,

left with just their shirts on their backs.

Amazingly many of these resilient people

became some of the wealthiest Greek immigrants,

building family dynasties that continued to thrive today.

(upbeat music)

We're gonna be very, very quiet at the moment

because Stefan is talking to Kyriakos

through that speaker down there.

(foreign language)

He's guarding the boat right now.

(upbeat music) (wind blowing)

(foreign language)

He's telling them to stop and take up the anchor.

(upbeat music)

Two guys could run this boat, it's amazing.

(upbeat music)

The first thing you have to do when you arrive here

is go for a walk.

And when I say walk,

I mean a very leisurely stroll,

because nothing happens here fast.

It doesn't take long to realize

that just about the whole population of the island,

lives around the main harbor area.

Many of the patriotic Kastellorizians in diaspora,

spend the Northern summer months in family homes

that have been passed down from generation to generation.

Some base themselves here for up to six months a year.

The port side shops, cafes and the diviners

are where many of the diaspora congregate.

It's not unusual to hear more English spoken than Greek.

It's also pretty common to hear accents

from the four corners of the world.

George.

(inaudible)

Thanks.

My pleasure to see you.

Good to see you boys.

Thanks for looking after my bike too much, all right?

No problem.

Much appreciated.

[]You can walk past the couple of guys having a coffee

and playing cards.

Grab a coffee yourself at the other end of the port,

and by the time you come back,

they would have barely sipped their drinks

and be on the same hand in their game.

I can't imagine the cafes here making a huge profit,

but then again, that's not what life on Kastie's about.

if you live here,

it's largely because you want to be away from the crowds

and that competitive culture

that leads to many of us working long hours and too hard

and not getting the most from life.

The neoclassical buildings around the pool

with their colorful pastoral facades

are a testament to the Island's resurgence.

In the last 30 years or so,

thanks to the returning Islanders and increasing tourism,

The place has had an injection of money.

Coupled with that has come a renewed interest

in its history and culture.

Those who have come back to the homeland

of their parents and grandparents

bring with them a certain pride in their heritage,

and a desire to know more about their origins.

One person who embodies this passion for Kastellorizo

is local historian, Nick Bogiatzis.

He spent most of his life studying his Kastie roots,

which in turn has given him a detailed understanding

of the Island's rich past.

He's a walking guidebook

and judging by his fashion sense,

he's also a highly intelligent stylish man.

Okay, what's really interesting here

is that these seaways are empty.

It's actually drainage underneath

where this waters flow through.

And when they're lifting them out,

if you can see the different here,

when they're lifting the stones out,

they turned one over and found

a sculpture of a naked young man.

Is it right?

Clearly safe.

When they were destroying all the pagan things

on Kastellorizo by the christians, this had been saved,

which was a wonderful, find. Yeah.

Nick and I have a mutual acquaintance in a fellow

by the name of Nick Peppes

together they've published some wonderful books

on Kastellorizo.

And I can tell you now,

you won't find two Kastie's more passionate than these two.

(slow music)

The Knights of St. John,

the Spanish, the Phonecians, the Germans,

the British,

countless countries have held Kastellorizo,

and it's a small island in the middle of nowhere.

What is it that has drawn these nations

to wanna hold Kastellorizo?

Because it's been at a critical geographical location.

It's on the trade routes from the middle east into Europe.

From the time the Phoenicians first set sail

and created a trading empire around the Mediterranean,

They had to come through Kastellorizo,

for this amazing harbor.

But not only was it a trade route.

From time immemorial, it's also been on the pilgrims route.

Christians coming from Europe

into the middle east, into Jerusalem

to discover Christ the Holy Grail,

the cross of Christ.

Pilgrims all came through here.

Constantine, Mother Helen St. Helen,

such have pass through here.

So, port trade for the pilgrim group, but also security.

So we not only have from ancient times and medieval times,

for the likes of St. John, when they took roads,

they took Kastellorizo and rebuilt the castle here,

because they wanted the security of Kastellorizo

as look out from any dangers coming from the east.

But even as recent as the 20th century,

you have many flights a week coming in

with Imperial airways from Britain,

Air France, coming through Kastellorizo

as a base for their empires in the middle east,

or their colonial interests in the middle east

for France and in India for Britain.

Planes in the 1920s, boat planes in the 1920s.

A trading point as if,

you've got to think Singapore, Hong Kong,

if you want to understand Kastellorizo.

It's equidistant from Izmir, from Beirut and Alexandria.

The great trading points of these Mediterranean,

Kastellorizo is in equidistance from them.

So, always trade was critical in this island

because of this extraordinary harbor.

No soil, no water, but 9,000 people.

And so 9,000 people at one stage,

and now there's only 300.

What happened?

Where did they all go?

That's a big story.

Let me take you somewhere and I can tell it to you.

Okay, let's go.

So Nick you're bringing me

through all this devastation area?

There's nothing else like it on Kastellorizo,

what's the story here?

Well, the whole island was devastated.

You gotta remember between

about 1913-1950,

Kastellorizo went through

all these different governances.

It was Ottoman, it was independent,

it was French, it was Italian,

then it was British, then it was Greek.

We're not talking about changing parties,

we're talking about changing the country you belong to.

In that 40 years,

it went through all this different governances.

And not only that, but it had the world wars,

it had a revolt, it had a revolution.

It had a huge earthquake

and then it had bombings,

and then this massive fire,

which finally destroyed this entire potential,

where the bulk of the 9,000 people lived.

there's nothing left.

There a few houses we're seeing now

are largely reconstructions.

Only a few of the originals have been maintained,

have been able to survive to be a risk.

How many houses were lost?

Well, the bulk of the island

what's really interesting is that

the town,

it was a city of 9,000 people built on one peninsula,

built out of stone and the stone city disappeared.

And that the only way we really know how people lived

here was through photographs.

What a photographs?

Paper and glass,

that paper and glass survived because people

like our families took them in the diaspora

to Australia, Triathlons, to Alexandria,

to America, and the paper survived.

The glass survived that tells us that it was his life,

but this city of stone disappeared.

Wow.

Enormous destruction,

enormous political upheavals,

huge dramas.

And it didn't just end there

when the British occupied the island in 1943,

the Germans bonded.

And so the British evacuated them

and said pack up for two weeks

and we'll take you across the Turkey.

Two years later,

they brought back as refugees from Gaza,

living in tents with their one little suitcase.

The island had been looted.

The oven had been burnt down.

Wow.

So, you know, devastation, it's gone to nothing.

What keeps bringing you back here for 50 years?

I guess Kastellorizo are really,

today is a place of imagination

as a kid in north Queensland times of growing up,

I'd have my grandmother told me about castles and Knights

and burry gold and silks and velvets,

and these extraordinary stories that were like boy's own

manual come to life, but it was our story.

And it's today's.

You just struck an emotional point in mine

So I know so many Kastellorizians

that would not know that story.

Amazing.

I think it's time for a coffee.

Let's go, bye bye, man.

After you,

It's amazing to see how much has been destroyed

and never replaced.

Living in this state of ruin provides

a powerful reminder of what once was,

and also acts as a lesson on the turmoil this island

has gone through,

who knows maybe someday they'll rebuild the stone city

to its former glory.

(upbeat music)

(drum playing)

The day started with a cruise morning on the Harbor

before we slowly made our way out of the protective orders

and into the open sea.

I'd met up with Costa,

a local water taxi operator that knows a few secret spots

around the island.

And while he had a long list of things,

he could have shown me,

there was one place I was particularly keen to check out.

Thing is at high time, unless you knew where it was,

you've never stumbled across it.

(foreign language)

Yeah.

We're going in there.

Yes.

How are we gonna get in there?

You are ready?

Yeah, I'm ready.

Okay, well you have to be laid down

very close to me please.

Very close to you?

Yes, we need to.

Okay.

You have to be laying down,

very close to me please.

(laughing)

(boat engine roaring)

Wow, (indistinct)

This is amazing.

hOw, Why is this?

That place it's about 35 minutes.

35 minutes.

It's like a church time, Isn't it?

It's big.

It's, definitely much bigger than the blue grotto

in Capri that I've seen.

And it's better.

Fewer people, it's quiet.

The water I can feel, it was warm.

It's beautiful.

It's just, wow.

It's just wet.

And you know, what can I jump in?

I'm gonna jump in I've got to jump in.

Sea caves are a phenomenon that exists all over the world.

But when you get that one in a million that has a high

enough caving, the right depth, clear water,

I see bit of light colored sand,

and an opening facing the Sonic,

just the right angle or that's when you've discovered

one of nature's special gifts.

(water splashing)

(upbeat music)

The zoo glow has a calming effect.

And the magnitude of the surrounding cave

when combined with the glowing deep blue water

makes you feel like you're floating in space.

This majestic sculpture has been fashioned by natures,

relentless, gouging, over thousands of years.

If you only camp Semihorizontal for this grata,

then you would leave satisfied.

This is one of those special occasions

that will stay with me forever.

And I can't recommend it more highly.

One word of advice,

just make sure you agree the exact price before you leave

and tell them that you wanna jump in and enjoy a swim.

(upbeat music)

The tiny island caseloads is proving to be so much bigger

and experience than I expected.

It's a great example of the saying size doesn't matter.

It's diminutive in scale,

but grand in its impact from the dramatic history

to the spectacular landscapes.

Tezi is an awesome destination.

It's also very inviting of outsiders.

None more so than its Turkish neighbors.

Now I think it's unusual but I think it's fantastic.

You're Greek and you are Turkish.

Where did you meet?

Kas.

In Kas.

In kas yeah.

And you, you still in love?

Of course.

Straight away.

Yeah.

Where do you live?

Where do you live now?

Six months and I live here Kastellorizo

and six months in Kas.

In Kas?

Yes.

So you half and half, you see Rudy's parents.

She sees yours, the families is mix.

It's fantastic.

Very very nice.

It's fantastic.

One thing I noticed is that he in Kastellorizo across,

which is just there and Kas,

which is just there.

The people are one, they are one people

they have very together.

Yes, exactly.

Never they have problem.

The two country never (foreign language)

And so what you hear on the news is not true?

Only that.

The countries work well together.

I live from the Kastellorizo and they had Kas.

They live from the Kastellorizo.

Yes.

So what do you cook here?

What is your favorite meal that you cook here?

(foreign language)is Pancake.

I sat right there he goes.

Yeah, yeah,

yeah, exactly.

And do you cook anything Greek?

Of course.

(foreign language)

I have a small menu.

I got the turkey from Symi?

From Kastellorizo.

and it goes man, you're making me hungry.

Very nice.

Can you, cook something for me?

Of course. Yes of course

I'm going to have to have somewhere to wait?

and then I'm gonna go for a swim.

(foreign language) Of course of course.

How good is that?

It's a love that has no borders.

These two defy the notion that Greece and Turkey

don't get along.

Certain politicians and use publications,

give you a feeling of constant disdain

between the two countries, but at grassroots level,

the people just go about their lives.

Working together happily

amidst the tensions created by political squabbling

history, justifies some to have animosity,

but we should always aspire to be friends with our neighbors

and move forward in a positive way.

(upbeat music)

As small as the all in might be Kastellorizo

is visited by regular ferry services

from largest settlements in the region,

the huge ships bring them with them, tourists and supplies

and give the Island's inhabitants, a feeling of connection

with the rest of the country.

There are also plenty of smaller vessels that hop

between the islands and across to Turkey.

It's much like ancient times where merchant ships sail

the seas trading goods and moving people around.

Thankfully, there aren't any parts

in these waters anymore.

Instead of a taken couple of weeks

or more to get from one side to the other,

you can traverse Greece by sea in a few days,

got the alley.

All right.

How are you?

Good, thank you.

Good to meet you.

Now tell me this is your boat?

Yeah.

And you go from Kas to Kastellorizo every day.

Yeah every day.

Every day.

Yeah, just summer period.

Just the summer?

Yeah, we starting middle May

Right?

And you bring people over, you bring food over.

Everything,

Everything.

Legal things.

Legal of course, legal things.

Of course legal things.

So if I'm here and I order food from you

at 10 o'clock at night.

Yeah.

You bring it in the morning.

Yeah, yeah.

Is that how it works?

They're sending message.

They say text message,

Text message and I translate to Turkish.

You must get it in English.

Greek, Turkish text.

Yeah.

And what you then translate it?

Translate it to Turkish.

And you give it to them, to the grocer.

And he gives it to you that night.

And you bring in the morning.

Yeah, yeah.

You're a legend man.

That's fantastic.

Thank you.

You're a good man.

Thank you.

So I noticed Kas is there it's only close.

Very good relations, very good relationships.

(inaudible)

So what I hear in the news about Turkey and Greece

is all bullshit.

We don't care.

Very good.

They love each other here.

Yeah.

They love each other.

Look at that, that's crazy.

You've got the Turkish flag and the Greek flag

next to each other kissing.

Yeah, yeah.

I see the Turkish tourists coming into Greece.

They spend money.

They good people'

Yeah.

Good people.

And the great scout Turkey.

They have a good time too.

They buying a lot of things, textile or something.

If I go to Kas is, the good things to buy.

What can I buy in Kas?

Textile.

Textiles.

All of olives.

Olives, Jewelry.

Yep.

Well, if I take, I can't, if I take my wife over there,

she wanna buy everything.

No, no (indistinct)

Gold and silver.

Gold is real?

Silver, because I've made this very shipping target.

You can find a good silver.

Yep.

We might need to cut that, So Helen,

doesn't say that okay.

So she doesn't have this cheap,

gold and jewelry Kas and Turkey.

Don't tell your wife,

I'm not gonna tell my wife.

This is only gonna guide.

This will got a hundred million papers,

but at one guy to my wife off or close her eyes

when she's watching, okay.

But you know what?

I think I might come across there tonight.

I might come across.

It's easy to come across?

Yeah, yeah

Very easy.

We can meet there.

We can meet there?

Can you take me to a good Turkish restaurant?

Yeah I will take you.

Is it's a good foo?

Yeah.

Always.

And I'm hungry because I'm on a diet right now

to lose weight.

I'll put on a lot of weight Kyriakos

He feeds me too much, you know?

So I'm gonna come here tonight

to Kas. Yes.

You will take me to a restaurant?

I'm gonna eat good Turkish food, right?

Oh man, I'm looking forward to that.

Thank you, buddy.

Welcome.

Thank you very, very much.

I love your boat, Very clean.

I love the vegetables on here too.

Fresh and cheaper.

That's Tomatoes.

Can I try one of the tomatoes?

Can I just take the,

give me one of the tomatoes before anyone sees it,

I grab a tomato and have it tomato cause he, the tomatoes,

when you weighed them,

you grab it and they slime all over your face.

Those who are in cities they cut them

would run an apple, and yeah, let me try.

And the vitriol and the tray it's clean, right?

Oh man, this is beautiful.

Yeah.

This is beautiful.

(cool music)

Inspired by my conversation with captain Nally,

I decided to head across the Kas to see it for myself,

whether I wanted to go or not.

I already dome my homework about the shopping

name months ago.

And had already spoken to captain Nally

about this diversion.

And so we're both excited and raring to go.

(cool music)

Plenty of yachting and others that travel by boat

around Greece will come across the Turkish ports

as they make their way through the islands.

It provides you with something different to see

and do along the way.

Today, Kas is a growing tourist destination.

And one of the big draw cards for travelers

is the diving as well as hiking in the lysine wine.

But it's a light back lifestyle that most come here for.

So while Helen shop for gifts,

Kyriakos and I went to the bizarre,

as they bought, fresh food stocks were low.

(upbeat music)

We're gonna either speak in English or Turkish, Okay.

Are you all right with that?

We don't want to offend these lovely people.

It's a beautiful, bizarre I love it.

And we're gonna come back here one day,

so let's not offend them, but it looks fantastic.

And just look at the (foreign language)

Depends when you are now great

So what do you wanna do?

Do you want to walk through first?

Yes we check in.

To check Okay.

But today I'm working for you.

I'm your carrier today.

Okay is that okay?

I'm gonna carry food.

Look at these grapes. Ooh.

Fresh produce is always the best

and everywhere we go

Kyriakos is quick to get off the boat

and search local markets for ingredients

here, we were spoiled for choice

as the region is known as an agricultural center

and there was plenty in season.

(people chanting)

I didn't train this morning

cause I knew I'd be lifting bags today.

So I just did a bit of yoga and I'm ready to go.

I'm your best worker.

(foreign language)

You need to have your friends hands free for negotiation.

(foreign language)

I give him to me, give it to me.

Give him to me proper

(foreign language)

I'm the best.

(inaudible) best helper.

(foreign language)

we're gonna look out to captain yummy?

(foreign language) (laughing)

I love the beans.

Kyriakos how can you tell the good being show me,

show me, show me how you can.

(foreign language)

I going make that snap when you break them and that it makes

that snap.

It's good very good grains.

Betsy, these guys are smart because they know,

they know they got good geek.

Oh, look at that.

And the season's finished.

This is the last of the season finished.

Finish.

Yeah, well there's a last.

We should get something we bought something.

Okay, we're gonna get something.

We're gonna have a beautiful,

very friendly paper.

We didn't even ask for this tea.

They just bought it over to.

I said, well, I'm coming.

I'm going to come and smell, come on.

Let's go and have a look.

We have a smell.

(foreign language) moisturizer.

Moisturizer

It's a moisturizer from olive oil

smell again.

Very nice and well,

I'll go no hair I have no hair.

Look now head my headset.

But here I here.

I love this is such traditional.

I wish I could do that in a big city, but you can't.

Here you are in Kas, it's a big town,

but this is all local produce, it's all fresh.

The smell, the tomatoes, the smell, the cheese,

everything has an aroma.

You put them all together with a color.

I don't think there's anything better for the senses.

They're all getting aroused right now

but the taste, the smell, the look it's awesome.

And you can understand when you with Kyriakos you know

you get bigger,

this (foreign language)

Ah, tahini.

This is a pastry that we were suggested

by the castle operations to come here enjoy

it's famous for them I love it.

It's called tahini and a pastry underneath it.

I don't know what happens now because I've never seen it.

It looks like Nutella.

I'm not too sure.

It might be in the Nutella in a joking ball.

I don't know.

It looks Tahini

(foreign language)

I didn't look at my

Tahini, (foreign language)

Can you make that?

You're going to make it for us? If it's good,

we're gonna have to map all.

Look at that.

It's a scroll.

(upbeat music)

Crunchy.

I don't know.

I've never to anything like it.

We literally 10 minutes from a relatively traditional

Greek island.

It felt like we were a world away.

The markets gave us insight into life in a Turkish town.

It was full of colors,

flavors and spills that were quite different to those

I'd experienced elsewhere in my travels,

best of all the people were really welcoming.

(cool music)

With the boat that was filled with fresh fruit

from the nearby bizarre.

It was only fitting.

We cooked a local recipe and when that's a fusion of Greek

and middle Eastern flavors.

So we're here in Kastellorizo and Despina Tanner

who is an excellent chef and your husband's a chef as well.

And you're gonna cook for us something really special.

That's local from Kastellorizo

however. Yeah, yeah.

What is that?

(foreign language)

And it's really easy.

It's just five ingredients, flour, sugar, water and cloves.*

Let's do it, let's do it.

Okay, so I've already got the butter melting.

Right?

And I'm just about to get it to the point

where I'm gonna add the flour.

The (foreign language) is really,

it's a middle astern thing.

It's because you guys are so close,

that's how it's come across (foreign language)

It's amazing how all of it, this area,

Middle East is a whole fusion of different flavors,

but basically they're the same fundamentally

the same ingredients.

So we all use phyllo pastry.

They make there in Turkey.

They make their baklava with pistachio.

We may need (foreign language)

So what's different about your(foreign language)

in Kastellorizo to anybody else's.

Well, we use butter,

I think in Northern Greece they use olive oil.

Yes.

But we use butter.

And I think the butter is probably because of the French

and the Italian period

when they bought those beautiful

ingredients across from their.

Mother made with semolina.

Yes, I make it with semolina as well.

But you guys in Kastellorizo (foreign language)

When you're having it warm is just with the normal flour.

Plain flour.

Okay, and this was, you live mushy life,

in Australia in Perth.

What are you doing to her?

You're living here now permanent.

What's the story.

I grew up in Perth and I've been in the hospitality

for about 37 years.

And finally, about a year ago,

we just started to sell up our restaurant.

Every time I would come across Kastellorizo

after building the house,

I would just be counting down the days

until I got here again.

And we just wanted to was on our bucket list

to actually have an extended period of time here.

Good for you.

And we really, really wanted to do it.

So we've done it.

And this year has been the big year

then probably again next year.

And then we'll think about it at the end of next year.

So your husband is a cook?

Yeah, we both the cook.

So he's the one that cooks the meal at night.

We both do.

We all do?

And if our daughter's with us, so.

And your daughter cooks as well, she cooked this stuff.

She had this stuff here and I shouldn't be eating this,

but it's beautiful.

It's got carbs.

And I'm on a (indistinct) I've said that a million times,

but.

Yeah, and my son made make the bread as well today

So cause tonight we're having a feast.

Yeah, I'm looking forward to it.

Kyriakos is coming over,

putting a goat in and you're oven, I love the oven.

And I'm excited because we're gonna have a break

from cooking and he's gonna be cooking.

And that will be great.

Although we'll make some.

So what's gonna happen now that's thickened up?

what are we gonna do?

Do we take off the hight soon or.

No, not yet you have to be patient.

I'm thinking that's where my wife's name is on that.

And you know, I'm not patient, you know,

I just, the only Pearl shop in the Harbor

and I had a good boss of jewelry for this morning.

First time in three years though,

she doesn't, you know, she's a good woman.

If at all the codes of the women

that are watching me right now,

they're gonna say what color is that?

It has to be nice and dark.

Ah, okay.

Okay, cause there's a real Cassie thing.

There isn't there.

They're all very competitive with each other.

We've just got through an hour of making the Casey's.

I don't know what he's about the Casey's

the Kestellorizo regions of fall done extremely

well in life.

It's because they come from,

a tiny island that went through some pain.

Obviously they left and everything else was easier.

Yeah.

You're concerned about the color aren't you?

I am concerned about the color.

Perfectionist is that not worry about it.

You sound, look, my watch

shes got to get a hundred percent perfect.

So, okay.

It's supposed to be a bit dark, a big deal.

This has been the camera let's got.

So do you make this often?

I actually no I had a special request by a lovely man

just came to visit.

Right.

So I thought I'd make it for him.

Well good on you.

And it must be a wonderful, wonderful man.

Oh, it's something that I've grown up

with that my mum would always make it fun.

There was a happy occasion other than a wedding,

Just making these things it brings back memories.

Doesn't it? Oh, I.

Totally, I love that.

And what you, what were you sprinkling it with?

Cloves and sugar.

Is this is that Hey dude.

When are they ready to eat?

Now you read?

Right now?

You're ready? Yeah.

Now the sugar in there, right?

Doesn't matter.

Now, listen, I've got a competition

going on with the chef and captain

and especially not eat any sugar, right?

So hopefully they won't be watching this for a long time.

So I'm gonna lie to them about that.

I didn't have any.

Thank you Ma'am this is a big test, right?

Big test, big test.

Oh man.

Who cares about the color?

Love you did this really, really well.

I love it.

I love it.

And I can see the cameraman over there

and as sound lady and like me shallow body right now.

This is so good.

And so simple to make.

Wow, I'm glad you're enjoying it.

I know the camera man want some.

He'll get some.

I've got to pass on my avatar.

Even while we're shooting, it doesn't matter.

There you go, buddy.

There you go, man.

He's a good boy.

He loved that camera and all that.

The gear up all those stairs to get up here.

That's why you look so trim.

Are you going up those those stairs all the time.

All right.

You look up yourself.

Well, you know,

it's a pretty healthy lifestyle

and we're loving it.

This may not.

Be back for Christmas.

Thank you very much darling.

You've been a natural Jim She said,

I use this good healing.

You might be someone I'm off shoot.

We skipped a couple of steps in the process,

but this wasn't about a cooking lesson.

I was here to learn what motivates someone from the opposite

side of the planet to start a new life

in a completely different culture.

If you do wanna know all the details of how to cook

this delicious tray, it will be on our website.

(upbeat music)

(dramatic music)

So 295, 296,

297,

298,

299

300,

301

I think actually press you're a threat four

Stretching high above the poor leading

all the way to the top of the mountain

is a set of white stairs.

You can't miss them.

If you're anything like me,

your guys is at them constantly wondering where they lead.

Well, I'm gonna save you the effort of making the high

or at least show you what you've got waiting

for you at the top.

Should you take on the challenge?

I done what motivated me to camp?

All the steps,

knowing it made it seem a whole lot harder

than it already was

71

74.

Okay.

If you left 74

you got going to be come on,

76

391,

392

393.

I do not necessarily recommend walking up these stairs

without sitting in stopping me.

You have to stop it.

Yeah it depends.

For four steps to go for the.

400.

399 here.

You're a mountain guide.

Your mountain guide.

They split it with things.

What I'm trying, I can have a

400,

400.

Ah,

see if it's going to rain tonight,

which is a big possibility.

I will be back tomorrow.

The same area here.

What for?

because it's snails is the first rain of the,

of the year of the autumn.

So the snails will come up.

Right

And when you collect them very good for cooking.

You cook snails, Oh yeah.

In many different ways.

What's your favorite while cooking the snails mine.

Well, it's called (foreign language)

It's coming from Greece (foreign language)

You put them in the pan with a sea salt

and vinegar

and olive oil and Rosebery and they cook in 10 minutes,

its very fast.

And you combine it with red wine is the best or white.

If you prefer.

Yeah put red wine and everything here.

Make sure you guys go to red wine.

I make my own, you know?

Yeah, yes.

From a local variety.

Well, it's a PDM.

I'm gonna miss out on the now because I really

wanna eat snail, you know?

Oh, well next time.

And he got caught next time. next time.

Next time (foreign language)

everybody's told me to come up to (foreign language)

St. George of the mountain.

What is most important church to you?

Which on the island, there is significant to the island,

but also to my family.

Wow.

well this can't check it out.

Yes. Let's go.

(upbeat music)

Wow, this is awesome.

Is it?

It's a fun.

Pretty beautiful.

It's a decent court yet.

It's a monastery, right?

Yeah.

It's a monastery.

Yeah.

I can see the all around.

Yeah.

The rooms have sales over there.

Yeah,

here we are.

(door open)

This is how you is yours, right?

St. George.

And over there is a.

So the creep this underneath, right.

And it's only space for one person

at the time to pass.

Okay, have you been there before?

Yes, I've been.

It's safe.

Yes it very safe.

All right.

Well, I'm gonna go Dan.

I'm claustrophobic, but I'll try and get down here.

Good luck.

It's not exactly that easy.

And I don't recommend this.

The last people,

wow.

This is amazing.

You be careful where you step.

It's not easy, especially for claustrophobic like me,

but it was worth the effort.

It is amazing.

Look at it, look at this.

And apparently they use this,

this water from below for baptisms

up until, you know, a century got the centuries.

Anyway, I think this is enough for me

because my claustrophobia

is starting to hit me and I'm concerned.

I'm like, if I hadn't anyway, other problems

I'm getting, I'm heading.

(cool music)

I'll tell you what, hiking up all those stairs.

And then squeezing into that tiny crypt is something you

just have to do,

top it off with a visit to the cave.

And you'll remember Cassie

for the rest of your life.

What a great day Man.

You liked it.

I marry new friend and it's been fantastic.

I love the story about the church.

The monastery is absolutely awesome.

Really interesting.

But listen, we've been walking for three hours.

Can we catch a taxi,

but we'll have to see work and let's go and catch that point

of shade and catch a taxi man.

Okay, so now, you know the truth.

You'd actually drive to the church and not go

through over (foreign language)

the heartache of the endless stairs, but then again,

it wouldn't be a special and experience.

If you didn't make gift to get up here under your own steam

throughout this series of migraine Odyssey,

it's been these lesser known unique experiences

that have proven to be some of the most unforgettable.

My Greek summer had been a long

and incredibly enjoyable one.

I was blessed to see and do so many special things.

And along the way, meet countless wonderful people.

I've made lifelong memories, but above all else,

I've made lifelong friends.

And as the sun was setting on this journey,

I was busy planning the next, after all,

I still have a large number of Greek islands left to explore

the same more of migraine Odyssey,

head to our website@mygreekoddessy.com.

There you'll find plenty to keep you entertained,

including Kiriakoss awesome recipes.

(upbeat music)