Original subtitles

[interviewer 1 in French]

[in French]

[Tony in English] If you're going to become

an international brand,

you have to have a name people can pronounce.

[in French] Cardin, un.

-Pierre Cardin. -Pierre Cardin.

-Pierre Cardin. -Pierre Cardin.

-Pierre. -Pierre.

-Pierre. -Pierre.

-Pierre Cardin. -Pierre... Pierre...

-Pierre? -Pierre.

Pierre?

Pierre Cardin.

-Cardin. -Cardin.

-Cardin. -Cardin.

Cardin... [stammers]

Pierre Car-- Oh, you should just say it.

-[chuckling] -Just say it, I'll drink.

That'd be Pierre Cardin.

You know, Pierre Cardin.

There's no one on the planet

who's not going to recognize that name.

That's an exaggeration, but it's not far from the truth.

Pierre Cardin.

[upbeat music]

[indistinct chatter]

[Jean-Pascal in French]

[camera shutter clicking]

[Jean-Pascal in French]

[indistinct chatter]

[in French]

[in Italian]

[chuckles]

[upbeat music]

[Fang in Chinese]

[in English] In a word, chic.

[Amber] Many of his ideas have become

mainstays of the fashion industry.

They were incredibly original and innovative

when he brought them to play.

He just revolutionized our business.

[in French]

[Philippe in French]

[Rodrigo in French]

[Jean-Paul in French]

[Laurence in French]

[in French]

[Jean in French]

[man 1 in French]

[man 2 in French]

-[man 3 in English] -[woman 1 in Italian]

[man 4 in French]

[Sharon in English] A control freak.

[Amy in English] A label, a logo, a legend.

-[man 5 in French] -[man 6 in Italian]

-[both in French] -[in Italian]

What's not to admire?

[upbeat music]

[Jean-Paul in French]

[Renée in French]

[in French]

[in French]

[laughing]

[in French]

[Pierre in French]

[applause]

-[Renée speaking French] -[audience laughing]

[Pierre in French]

[students in French]

[Pierre in French]

[John in French]

[Pierre in French]

[student 1 in French]

[in French]

-[student 2 in French] -[Pierre in French]

[students in French]

[student 3 in French]

[in English] When Cardin takes someone in

and someone joins the House of Cardin,

you're like, joining a family.

-[Pierre in French] -[Matthew in French]

[in French]

[lively music]

[Tony in English] The way I think, of course,

is that he's thought of as French designer Pierre Cardin.

And he's not. He's Italian.

[both in French]

[in Italian]

[Daniele in Italian]

[Rodrigo in Italian]

[in Italian]

[in French]

[newsreel narrator] Mussolini's road to power

began in 1922

when his fascist Blackshirts marched on Rome.

[Rodrigo in Italian]

[train rumbling]

[Pierre in French]

[train whistling]

[Pierre in French]

[interviewer 2 in French]

[in French]

[interviewer 2 in French]

[young Pierre in French]

[Rodrigo in French]

[explosion]

[Pierre in French]

[in French]

[ominous music]

[young Pierre in French]

[Jean-Pascal in French]

[newsreel narrator in English] "Vive la France"

shout rings from every throat,

including that of mademoiselle.

[young Pierre in French]

[lively acoustic music]

[Pierre in French]

[Jean-Pascal in French]

[young Pierre in French]

[in French]

[in French]

[young Pierre in French]

[interviewer 3 in French]

[young Pierre in French]

[in French]

[grandiose music]

[young Pierre in French]

[Pierre in French]

[in English] It was a much smaller clique

or group of people in those days.

So Bérard knew Cocteau, Cocteau knew Christian Dior,

and so on.

[Pierre in French]

[chuckles]

[interviewer 4 in French]

[laughing]

[both in French]

[chuckles]

[all laughing]

[Claude in French]

[Pierre in French]

[Claude in French]

[both in French]

[Jean-Pascal in French]

[in French]

[Naomi in English] At the end of the day,

the real designers are the ones that know how to tailor.

They can never be starving. You can tailor, you can eat.

[Amy in English] Immediately after World War II,

he is connected to all these social events that are legends.

He dressed Christian Dior as a lion.

Cardin made that costume. This is 1948.

And then at the Beistegui Ball,

one of the great costume balls of the century,

he contributed through the costumes.

[newsreel narrator] On the Regio Canal, Venice,

the Labia Palace is transformed for one night

into a scene of 18th century glory.

[Pierre in French]

[Jean-Pascal in French]

[upbeat music]

[in French]

[Maryse in French]

[in French]

[Jean-Paul in French]

[both in French]

[Pierre in French]

[laughing]

[in French]

[designer 1 in French]

[designer 2 speaking French]

[in French]

[designer 3 in French]

[Maryse in French]

[machine whirring]

[indistinct dialogue]

[both in French]

[Pierre in French]

[both in French]

[Pierre in English] Fourteen floors full of clothes.

[calm music]

[designer 4 in French]

[in French]

[lively music]

[newsreel narrator in English] Here's the latest look

from Paris, filmed in Paris.

[Maryse in French]

[John in French]

[Philippe in French]

[young Pierre in French]

[Maryse in French]

[interviewer 5 in French]

[in French]

[young Pierre in French]

[in French]

[young Pierre in French]

[in French]

[Renée in French]

[young Pierre in French]

[in French]

[in French]

[Pierre in French]

[in French]

[interviewer 6 in French]

[young Pierre in French]

[interviewer 7 in French]

[Laurence in French]

[in French]

[Pierre in French]

[Maryse in French]

-[interviewer 5 in French] -[young Pierre in French]

[interviewer 5 in French]

[in French]

[lively music]

[woman 2 in French]

[woman 2 and Pierre speaking French]

[Pierre in French]

[Siti in French]

[young Pierre in English]

[Tony] He really brought that to the fore

during the '50s and '60s where we were changing our idea

as to what could be in a fashion magazine.

Even from the very beginning,

he didn't go for the conventional set

of mannequins at that time.

If he felt that they were right to show his creations

and express his creativity and his designs,

and he chose in the right frame of mind.

[interviewer 8 in French]

[in French]

[interviewer 8 in French]

[Hiroko in French]

[in Japanese]

[Pierre in French]

[Tony in English] It was a perfect marriage

of model and designer.

Once she was established, we knew that she was the one

that would be wearing the main pieces of the season

because she did have a real knack for wearing Cardin

that none of them quite had.

[lively music]

[Dionne] The diversity was quite refreshing.

Because during the '60s, here in the States,

we were experiencing some true ugliness.

I... didn't like what my country was doing

to people that look like me. I still don't.

[Dionne] In the '60s, he decided that it was okay

to use a Japanese person.

It's okay to use a person that looked like me

with brown skin.

What he was selling was not a color of skin.

[Jenny in English] It's very important

that Hiroko was a model in the '50s because it changes

your perception of a Japanese woman

or what beauty can be.

I was a Japanese, tattooed lesbian

I didn't want to ever model.

But what made me do it was

because there's nobody that represented anything like that.

And I thought,

"You know what, if there's a window of opportunity..."

Politically, it had to be done with fashion.

I mean, you can reach billions of people

with a cover of a magazine.

[Naomi] He was extremely instrumental

in being one of the designers

to use models of diversity and go color.

So, for that, I thank him.

The 1960s is this key decade in fashion

where we start to see this idea of

"Pre-war hierarchies of society should be broken down."

[Amber] What's being called the "youthquake"

was a really big part of this.

Breaking from the past,

not wanting to wear what your parents wore.

[in French]

[Renée in French]

[Claude in French]

[in French]

[Claude in French]

[Trina in English] His clothing

definitely moved away

from having anything to do with the actual shape

of the female form. So, of course, if you're wearing

an A-line dress, it's much easier to move around

than it is if you're wearing, you know,

a very tight-fitted dress.

So in a sense, I think that being able to move freely

is empowering!

It was not only women and women and freedom

but here is a colorful exclamation point

at the end of a sentence.

[thrilling music]

I see Pierre Cardin as somebody who was

a feminist, who understood, also, what women

from the '60s and '70s needed in a designer.

[Alexandra] So, Pierre Cardin was one of the first

to really create

beautiful silhouettes, beautiful clothes

that were reasonably priced and were made of materials

that were practical,

that you could wash and wear or dry clean.

It's just... it's just beautiful.

-If I stand up, will you see it? -[interviewer 9] Yeah.

Okay, because it really is, it really is kind of amazing.

With Cardin, men's wear changed so dramatically.

[Tony] Because men's wear was so based around

that men wore suits.

So once we started to relax, a lot of people wanted Cardin,

because it was modern, and it was young,

and it was different

[TV announcer] Paul, John, George, and Ringo.

[interviewer 10]

[John] We got it from Pierre Cardin.

-[interviewer 10] From whom? -[all] Pierre Cardin.

When you're looking at a magazine,

you go through the Dior, the Balmain, the Nina Ricci

and then you get to Cardin, and you go,

"Wow! I've turned the page and I've gone from sexy women

with a rolled umbrella and a little hat,

and suddenly, I've got a girl with a geometric

Vidal Sassoon haircut

and this amazing look, and it's modern."

It says modern.

[Kennedy] No man can fully grasp

how far and how fast we have come.

Man and his quest for knowledge and progress is determined

and cannot be deterred.

The exploration of space will go ahead.

[thrilling music]

[young Pierre in French]

[in French]

[Jean-Paul in French]

[Pierre in French]

[Pierre in French]

[Renée in French]

[in French]

[Amy in English] Well, the circle

is a perfect form.

A circle is also a sphere, which is a globe,

which is a universe that he occupies.

I mean, he covers the globe. He always has thought globally.

It also was a symbol of eternity,

and Pierre Cardin seems to be forever.

[Jean-Michel in French]

[Pierre in French]

[dramatic music]

[young Pierre in French]

[Amy in English] He was just a futurist.

He was a futurist in the way the designs looked,

he was a futurist in his idea

of how fashion can be a business,

he was a futurist in his, sort of, all-encompassing,

all-embracing idea of art and performance art

and architecture and fashion of being of one piece.

[young Pierre in French]

[Rodrigo in French]

[young Pierre in French]

[John in French]

[Christopher in English] There's always something extra.

It's true for his furniture, and it's true for his clothes.

And I think that's what makes him so appealing.

There's always a cherry on top.

[in French]

[Philippe in French]

[snips]

[Florent in French]

[calm music]

[Pierre in French]

[indistinct dialogue]

[in French]

[Pierre in French]

[all in French]

-[woman 3 in French] -[Pierre in French]

[woman 3 in French]

-[woman 4 in French] -[Pierre speaking French]

[Pierre in French]

[lively music]

[Pierre in French]

[man 7 laughs]

[in French]

[laughter and applause]

[speaking French]

[both in French]

[Rodrigo in French]

[in Italian]

[Rodrigo in Italian]

[Rodrigo in French]

[in French]

[piano playing]

[Rodrigo in French]

[in French]

[both in French]

[upbeat music]

[Mark in English] Pierre Cardin was one

of the pioneers in making eyewear fashionable.

Both sunglasses and prescription.

Prior to Pierre Cardin, the choices in eyewear were

gold rim, tortoise, black, and a combo frame

like what Kevin Costner wore in JFK.

All through the '70s and '80s, it was Pierre Cardin

that propelled the eyewear industry

into designer.

[ James Bond theme music]

[Amy] He certainly put power in the logo.

[Christopher] The Helvetica.

The anthromorphic, bimorphic PC.

[Amy] He is not the first one

to put the logo on the outside, but he's one of the first

to know that he didn't have to do it discreetly.

Branding is really a perfect way of telling people,

"I am aligning myself with the,

you know, aesthetic principles of this particular designer,

but I understand good taste."

[man 8] Clear the runway.

[in Japanese]

[in Japanese]

[Yoshio in Japanese]

[in Japanese]

[Yori in Japanese]

[in English] If the identification--

There's a brand identification.

I mean, you could say the same thing happens

with beer or cigarettes.

[young Pierre in French]

[upbeat music]

[in French]

[Michael in English] What's been described

as licensing, we now fully recognize as branding.

I think the first time I heard about Pierre Cardin,

was because someone I was dating was wearing the cologne.

[Pierre in French]

[Alice in English] It's just like clothes.

What's the new fragrance? The Pierre Cardin.

If you didn't have that, you weren't cool.

[Sharon] The bottle was fantastic.

It was so chic.

Architecturally just extraordinary.

[Christopher] Part of what makes it so provocative and fun,

obviously, references a penis.

That's sex.

[in French]

[upbeat music]

[Christopher in English] Even this sort of

inexpensive towels have a graphic image

that evokes Pierre Cardin.

Wait, he did an AMC Javelin?

[TV advertiser] With elegant and colorful upholstery,

classy door panels,

and chic headliner.

The Cardin Javelin was really fully realized.

It, it was pretty awesome.

[Bob] The Cardin option really gave them

a piece of distinction that no other manufacturer had.

Not content to being earth-bound,

he lent his brand and his ethos to a plane.

An executive jet by West Wind.

[Pierre in French]

[Philippe in French]

[in French]

[in English] It seems to me

that it would've been an impossible task

to keep track of it all.

And, so at some point, there's some licensee

somewhere in the world, going rogue and just creating

whatever they want and putting a Pierre Cardin label on it.

[in French]

[young Pierre in French]

[Pierre in French]

[in French]

[in English] From the very beginning,

he never accepted any money.

He never took a loan from a bank.

He's that clever as a businessperson.

[Matthew] Dior, the Houses of Dior,

and the other Houses, they have been developed.

But they've been developed by marketing teams

and by marriages and alliances with other big corporations.

Pierre Cardin belongs to Pierre Cardin.

[young Pierre in French]

[Amy in English] Pierre Cardin on the cover

of Time Magazine

is proof of the fact that he was

well-regarded, not just as a designer

of frivolities for women, but also as a empire-builder.

[grandiose music]

[in French]

[in English] Welcome to Maxim, my friend!

[in French]

[calm music]

[in French]

[Tony in English] Of all the things he would buy,

in Paris,

he would buy the oldest Art Nouveau Restaurant.

[in French]

[in French]

[in English] Please.

[tranquil music]

[in French]

[Pierre-André in French]

[in French]

[both in French]

[in French]

[Pierre in French]

[in English] With Cardin,

in spite of all the modernity,

in spite of all the synthetics, in spite of all the shine,

it doesn't have a coldness to it.

And that, I think, maybe that there's still

that little bit of the Italian warmth

sitting somewhere inside his genetic make-up.

Maybe it's also the fact that he has a certain warmth

as a person which we may or may not always see

in his public persona.

He's creating for tomorrow, but not as a challenge

to frighten or scare us.

He's designing for tomorrow

because that's where he's looking.

[in French]

[Amy in English] That already introduced

that idea of fantasy.

And big part of his fantasy is,

like, what is a world of the future.

The world of the future he saw as something global.

[Amy] He was in Japan when you hardly saw

Japanese in western clothing.

He was in China

when everyone was still in a Mao uniform.

He was in the Soviet Union

when there was no fashion at all.

I mean, whoever thought of these places as markets?

Countries that didn't have even the freedom

to wear the clothes that they wanted to wear.

[in French]

[lively music]

[TV announcer in Japanese]

[Kenzo in Japanese]

[Kenzo in Japanese]

[Yumi in Japanese]

[in Japanese]

[Hanae in Japanese]

[in Japanese]

[TV announcer in French]

[Pierre in French]

[in French]

[uplifting music]

[Haiban in Chinese]

[in Chinese]

[Fang in Chinese]

[in Chinese]

[interviewer 5 in French]

[young Pierre in French]

[interviewer 5 in French]

[in French]

[calm music]

[young Pierre in French]

[Fang in Chinese]

[tranquil music]

[Guo in Chinese]

[tranquil music]

[Guo in Chinese]

[in Chinese]

[Siti in French]

[interviewer 6 in French]

[young Pierre in French]

[in Chinese]

[Jerry in Chinese]

[dramatic music]

[Maryse in French]

[dramatic music]

[dramatic music continues]

[interviewer 11 in French]

[in French]

[TV announcer in English] How many million dollars

did this man make last year?

His name is Pierre Cardin.

[interviewer 12 in French]

[in French]

[in French]

[in French]

[upbeat music]

[TV announcer in French]

[young Pierre in French]

[Jean-Michel in French]

[Renée in French]

[young Pierre in French]

[Daniele in Italian]

[in French]

[calm music]

[in French]

[Dionne in English] Burt Bacharach

was the musical conductor for Marlene Dietrich.

So apparently Burt let her know, "Big girl's coming over."

She did my sound check, she did my lighting.

Then proceeded to walk into my dressing room

to look at the clothing that we're to wear.

She took, hanger and all, threw them in the hall.

She was throwing my clothes out.

I thought the lady lost her mind, okay?

I didn't know her, she didn't know me.

As she's throwing them out, I'm picking them up.

And she says, "Oh, no, no, no. You do not wear this."

[Dionne] "You must wear only couture."

That's why Pierre Cardin's on the cover of

Make Way for Dionne Warwick.

He was at, I think, every performance I did.

♪ What do you get When you fall in love? ♪

♪ A guy with a pin To burst your bubble ♪

♪ That's what you get For all... ♪

[indistinct chatter]

[Alice in English] We get to the Pierre Cardin 30

and it's just beautiful.

All glass, and I'm going,

"Really? They want us to play here?

We're used to playing in dungeons."

[in French]

[rock music]

[Alice in English] '71 was the year that we had

pretty much terrified everybody in rock and roll.

So, there we are, getting ready to do our show,

and they come running in and they say,

"They're rioting outside.

They took Omar Sharif's Rolls-Royce

and ran it through the glass window."

They put Neo, my drummer, and myself

in a closet, a broom closet,

with Bianca Jagger and Catherine Deneuve.

We're like this.

And I went,

"I love riots and Paris." [laughs]

[Alice] Well, you think back on it now,

20/20 hindsight,

the idea of bringing Alice Cooper

into a theater like that,

I think he probably knew there was going to be a riot.

And that didn't bother him one bit.

[Pierre in French]

-[Pierre in French] -[men laugh]

[young Pierre in French]

[in French]

[interviewer 12 in French]

[in French]

[upbeat music]

[Jean-Pascal in French]

[Fabienne in French]

[in French]

[woman 5 singing]

[director speaking French]

[in French]

[chuckles]

[young Pierre in French]

[calm music]

[Rodrigo in French]

[grandiose music]

[interviewer 5 in French]

[young Pierre in French]

[interviewer 5 in French]

[in French]

[applause]

[in French]

[Rodrigo in French]

[director speaking French in background]

[in French]

[Rodrigo in French]

[in English] I do remember when I met him,

I was probably 20.

And I remember him saying to me,

"Your beauty is like a white rose."

And I was so shy, but it was such a big deal

that he noticed me, I felt.

And that he said this very particular thing to me.

Started to make me think that women all have

a particular kind of beauty.

And that we're all like flowers.

And that we're all different kinds of flowers.

It's something that stayed with me,

really stayed with me, and really meant a lot to me.

[in French]

[in French]

[upbeat music]

[in French]

[Pierre in French]

[interviewer 5 in French]

[in French]

[interviewer 5 in French]

[in French]

[Pierre in French]

[in English] Watching Jeanne Moreau walk

through a parking lot?

[Sharon] Is...

akin to watching any other actress

do a three-page monologue.

[Josée in French]

[Pierre in French]

[Josée in French]

[in French]

[Amy in English] I guess a lot of people doubted

there was something there, because they're more accustomed

to the idea of Pierre Cardin with a man than a woman.

But, my God, if you're going to make an exception,

then why not Miss Jeanne Moreau?

[interviewer 13 in French]

[young Pierre in French]

[Josée in French]

[in French]

[Pierre in French]

[young Pierre in French]

[Jeanne in French]

[Tony in English] We're so used, now,

knowing everyone's private lives.

It's difficult to understand that years ago,

people didn't feel it was necessary

for it to be part of their discussion

with a journalist or an interview

or the motivation for their seasonal collection.

And I think it's interesting that with some designers,

you don't really know an awful lot

about their private lives.

[Tony] With Cardin, he didn't need to have

a banner headline saying, "Here he is."

[young Pierre in English]

[in French]

[in French]

[Jean-Paul in French]

[in French]

[in English]

[rock music]

[in English]

[rock music]

[in English]

[rock music]

♪ My heart flutters When my sunshine fades away ♪

♪ What kind of colors could I Bleed to make you stay ♪

[Christopher in English] Of course, in 1961,

Pierre Cardin takes up with Jeanne Moreau.

And so, Andre Oliver moves out of Pierre Cardin's house.

[in French]

[in French]

[Amy in English] The relationship

between Andre and Pierre Cardin survived this incident

and, hey, if I were Andre, I would rather have infidelity

with a woman than with a man.

[in English] But, in the sort of history,

one gets the sense of him as this sort of rock.

He's introduced at the end of the runway shows

which is kind of a remarkable thing, right?

You don't see Alexander McQueen introduce somebody else.

[Jean-Paul in French]

[Jean-Michel in French]

[Christopher in English] Andre Oliver dies in 1993

from AIDS.

[in French]

[in French]

[in French]

[somber music]

[interviewer 2 in French]

[young Pierre in French]

[interviewer 2 in French]

[young Pierre in French]

[indistinct chatter]

[Florent in French]

[both in French]

[speaking French]

[speaking French continues]

[Rodrigo in French]

-[both laughing] -Okay.

[Maryse in French]

[in French]

[in French]

[both in French]

[Pierre in French]

[producer in French]

[in French]

[Pierre in French]

[in French]

[Pierre in French]

[in French]

What do I know about what he's doing?

I know he's hoping to build this tower in Venice.

I don't think he's going to leave this planet

until he sees that thing built.

[Rodrigo in French]

[producer in French]

-[Pierre in French] -[producer in French]

[in French]

[calm music]

[interviewer 5 in French]

[in French]

[Pierre in French]

[producer in French]

[in French]

[Jean-Michel in French]

[interviewer 14 in French]

[in French]

[Laurence in French]

[producer in French]

[in French]

[producer in French]

[speaking French]

[in French]

[in French]

[in French]

[in French]

[Pierre singing]

[in English] One more time.

-No. -[laughing]

[in French]

[in Japanese]

[in English] Oh, I'm sure he's going

to come for it again and again and again.

[chuckles] Yeah.

People will always be inspired. He's one of the greats.

[in French]

[in English] I feel younger.

[in French]

[upbeat music]