Original subtitles

CHERIE LUNGHI: Christmas is a time of indulgence

and celebration right across Britain.

But with food inflation soaring this year,

we're all having to keep a close eye on the pounds in our pocket -

even the better off.

Challenging times economically.

Everyone's looking for value for money.

So, for those who like to shop at high-end department stores

like Fortnum & Mason,

should they consider switching to a low-cost discounter

like Lidl this Christmas?

Lidl, traditionally,

has been seen to be aiming at poorer members of society.

But that's not true any more.

In this programme,

we put these unlikely retail rivals to the test...

Mmm.

under the Christmas tree this year...

It's really exciting.

I had absolutely no idea what was gonna be in there.

..analysing how each retailer promotes themselves

over the festive season...

Lidl was really trying to show how it understands British Christmas.

..and we'll be putting their festive treats

head-to-head in taste tests...

Our least favourite is Fortnum's.

No way.

..to discover if Fortnum & Mason's premium products

are worth splashing out for...

Fortnum & Mason set the standard at Christmas.

..or if you can get luxury for less at Lidl...

The Deluxe range is better than the basic stuff.

..as we discover who does Christmas better.

FESTIVE MUSIC

From mince pies to champagne to gifts under the tree,

Christmas is a time when many of us splash out at posh shops.

But in recent years, there have been these strange

blue and yellow stores popping up all over the place,

offering more affordable luxury...

the German discounter Lidl.

Traditionally, this is a time of year

where we kick back a bit,

where we spend a lot on food,

we spend a lot on presents for our friends and our family.

Everyone's looking for value for money

no matter where they sit in the food chain.

Customarily, the extremely well-off have done their Christmas shopping

at an iconic store in London's West End.

181 Piccadilly has been the home of Fortnum & Mason

since 1840.

But is this most traditional of department stores

now challenged by cheeky upstart Lidl?

I think anybody that walks through the front door in Fortnum & Mason's

is actually transported into a different world.

It's like walking into a child's vision

of what a shop is.

The store is spread over six floors.

On the fourth is the tea salon,

where weary shoppers enjoy indulgent cream teas.

The third is crammed with everything

for the discerning gentleman.

The second is fragrances and beauty.

One floor down, you'll find the homeware department.

Then on the ground floor,

we find the goods for which it is best known...

tea, coffee, biscuits, preserves, chocolates, cakes.

Down the central spiral staircase, and it's fresh food -

pies, bread, charcuterie, cheese, meat and fish and wine.

It's an Aladdin's Cave of wonders

just as long as you have the money to spare.

Fortnum & Mason are a high-end grocery retailer.

And when they were founded in the early 18th century,

that really was THE place that the fashionable society lived in.

So they have never been a company that appealed to a budget shopper.

You can spend thousands, indeed, tens of thousands,

dressing your home, curating your hamper,

buying truly the luxury in life.

Like a silver-plated teapot set for a mere £1,300,

or half a kilo of beluga caviar

for three-and-a-half thousand pounds.

And during the holiday season,

the store transforms into a festive wonderland

which everyone is invited to enjoy,

not just the well-heeled.

Fortnum & Mason at Christmas is crowded.

Lots and lots of tourists,

but also lots and lots of London-based shoppers

who are in there because they do their daily grocery shopping there

or because they want something that's a bit of a treat.

This is a brand that really serves Christmas well.

But what to do if you usually buy your seasonal treats

at Fortnum & Mason, but you're feeling the pinch

because the heating bill on the country pile has rocketed this year?

Should the nation's posh shoppers

look elsewhere for their Christmas shop

and even consider German discounter Lidl?

Lidl, traditionally, has been seen to be aiming at the working-class

and poorer members of society.

But that's not true any more

and hasn't been for a very long time, actually.

Lidl started life in Germany in the 1930s.

Lidl's history goes back to pre-war Germany

when Joseph Schwartz was running a fruit-and-veg wholesaler.

The brand arrived on our shores in 1994

to little fanfare and much confusion.

They went into the stores and said, "Why would you want to shop here?"

It didn't look like Waitrose.

Is this biscuit the equivalent to a Ginger Nut?

I don't know, it's all in German.

Pickled herrings in jars, you know, which were alien.

I think there was this definite perception

that this was a shop for poor people.

At the discounter, you can get a can of baked beans for 46p

or cranberry sauce for Christmas for just 69p.

But Lidl came up with a strategy to move upmarket

and steal trade from the posher retailers.

The Deluxe range.

They created a range of around 200 products

with richer ingredients, nicer packaging

and each, carefully chosen to appeal specifically to UK tastes.

The Deluxe range has all of the visual cues

that tell you that this is just a little bit better

than the basic stuff.

Lidl are offering a much more affordable Christmas mix,

and they're saying, "Put as against all the competition.

"Put us against those real luxury brands.

"See how we taste test."

Lidl started winning taste tests against other retailers.

I know!

So can their Deluxe range really compete

with the premium products from the department store?

To find out, we've put together a panel of discerning palates

who will taste test the products.

They have no idea which is from which retailer.

They include chef and restaurateur Jacob Kenedy,

food writers and broadcasters Alexandra Dudley and Jonathan Vang

and actor and presenter Tom Read Wilson.

We're starting Christmas Day with breakfast.

And after we've unwrapped the presents,

and while the grouse is cooking in the oven...

It's quite transporting, that aroma.

..it's time for a warming cup of coffee.

Fortnum & Mason are known for their tea and coffee,

so they should win this one hands down.

But can our panel work out which ground coffee

comes from which retailer?

Fortnum & Mason, Lidl or Sainsbury's?

First up is coffee one.

I don't love the smell. No, I don't.

It smells a bit weak.

Weak is exactly what I was just about to say.

I'm not wild about that. I think it's awful.

I think it's dreadful. It's just not great.

I just think it's a bit bland and slightly bitter.

Underwhelmed. Let's move on to number two.

So, coffee one isn't perking up our panel.

Will the second fare any better?

Well, it smells better, definitely.

Yes! It packs a bit more of a wallop, this one, doesn't it?

It sort of got notes of spices...

Mm. ..like cinnamon and...

Mmm.

It's got a bit more depth, I think,

than the last one. Certainly has.

More quaffable. Yeah.

Yes! Definitely.

Finally, it is time to sample coffee number three.

Ooh, even darker! That's a lovely rich colour.

Yeah, that's a really good colour. Even the pour of it.

It feels slightly more sort of viscous.

Oh, I say!

I'm looking forward to this one. Me too.

That's nice.

That's my favourite. It tastes like a cup of coffee.

It's like being... I feel like Goldilocks!

Oh, that's divine.

So, which do our panel think is which?

So, I think we're unanimous in feeling that number one is

perhaps the lesser in terms of quality?

Yeah.

And our number two is a clear silver medallist for all of us.

Yeah. Yep.

And number three is our frontrunner.

100%. Definitely.

Well, now we need to learn from whence they came!

Do we think that our favourite, number three,

is probably from Fortnum's?

I'd say so. I think they do coffee and tea well.

Number three, I would associate with Fortnum's

because it is quite luxurious, it tastes...

Rich. ..rich

and has lovely complex flavours.

All right, well, let's find out.

Our least favourite coffee

is Fortnum's!

No, was it?! Number one was Fortnum's, yes.

Wow! Number two,

our dependable, palatable chum

is from Sainsbury's. OK.

And number three, our frontrunner by a country mile

is Lidl! I should have gone with my gut.

You were quite right about that.

That's what I thought to begin with.

That's amazing! Yeah.

So it's a shock first result in the taste test.

Lidl has come out top

at a cost of just £1.27 per 100g.

Sainsbury's is second at £1.72 per 100g,

as for the third-place coffee...

Our slightly disappointing Fortnum's

is a stonking...

£28. No way!

No way! ..for 100g of coffee.

It is, it is absolutely true.

So in the battle of the taste tests, it's 1-0 to Lidl.

Coming up, we reveal the Christmas treats

found in Lidl's famous middle aisle.

It's crazy and genius at the same time.

I think that one's gonna sell out quickly.

And can Fortnum & Mason fight back in the battle of the taste tests?

The aftertaste is a little bit...

Petroleum. Petroleum.

I didn't wanna say it, but, yeah. It is!

It's Christmas,

and for high-end department store Fortnum & Mason

and German discounter Lidl,

it's the busiest time of the year.

And we're putting these unlikely retail rivals to the test

to see if one should stick with the pricey premium products

this Christmas

or if it's possible to get luxury for less.

Nothing says Christmas luxury like smoked salmon.

Maybe served with creamy scrambled eggs and toast.

Our panel are blind taste testing smoked salmon

from Lidl, Fortnum & Mason and Sainsbury's.

Which will give our panellists that sinking feeling,

and which will swim away with the top spot?

So, I'm dishing up with number one first.

I don't know whether it gains some merit,

its leafiness is wonderful.

Mm-mm!

So, I loved it.

I'd possibly like it a tiny bit softer.

But I thought it was really, really good.

Texture was great, flavour was great.

Alexandra? I liked it.

I thought it had a very good smoky level.

It could have been slightly less salty for me.

Jonathan? I think that would be a crowd-pleaser.

I think that's everyone's... a one-size-fits-all. Yes.

For me, it's slightly too salty.

Next up, smoked salmon number two.

I have high hopes for this one... Yes!

Yes! Yes! ..so let's give it a go.

Mmm. I really like that.

I really like that, too.

There's a really mellow smokiness to it.

Yes. I really like the texture of that.

And it feels... I think it's a bit soft.

I like that. Do you?

Cos it feels to me more like fresh fish

that's been worked with rather than more processed.

You can get your teeth through it?

I don't think it was quite as salty as the one before.

A little bit gentler. I think it was nicely balanced,

and the aftertaste, I think, is very nice.

I think it could be smokier, and it was a bit soft for me.

Salmon number two is dividing the panel.

What about our final offering?

I think it's time to turn our attention

to number three.

You can definitely taste the smoke.

It's got a slightly lingering fishiness, but not unpleasant.

The lingering aftertaste is a little bit...

Petroleum. Petroleum.

I didn't wanna say it, but, yes, it is.

It is! It's like it's been sprayed with smoke at the end.

I think that was my least favourite.

Salmon sampled,

it's time for our panel to guess which is which.

Number two was my favourite,

and I reckon it might also be the premium.

Right.

Number three was my least favourite,

and I reckon number one was the cheapest.

Time to reveal the truth.

Number one is Sainsbury's,

our second favourite around the table.

Number three was Lidl,

our least favourite around the table.

And our unanimous favourite, number two

is, indeed, from Fortnum's. Ah, there we go, well done.

I've always said "You can't buy class,"

but it turns out with smoked salmon, you can!

Fortnum & Mason's winning smoked salmon

is the most expensive at £7.50 per hundred grams.

More expensive than Sainsbury's at £4.75,

and Lidl at £3.49 per hundred grams, respectively.

I would say roughly, there is a correlation

between price and quality here, which is not always the case.

After such a refined breakfast,

and while staff prep the Christmas feast,

it's time for presents.

And at Fortnum & Mason, that can only mean one thing...

the Christmas hamper.

The Fortnum & Mason hamper is simply a status symbol.

Have one in your house, and you've been gifted the gift of luxury.

The hamper IS the Fortnum & Mason icon.

It is so special.

They are a badge of honour, they're a status symbol,

but crucially, what they say is, somebody really loves you,

and they've given you this lovely thing.

Fortnum's sells over 120,000 hampers a year...

most of them exported around the world -

the bulk of them during the festive season.

Philip Ardagh's first hamper

began a lifelong love affair with Fortnum's food.

I think the first time I actually received a hamper

was when I worked in advertising in the early 1980s.

It's very exciting, it's like a box of delights -

you don't know what's in it, and it makes this fantastic creak,

which I'm looking forward to when I open this up.

The hampers are popular as gifts at Christmas in particular.

So what's it like to delve into the world-renowned wicker basket?

Right, well, this is certainly the moment I've been waiting for.

I'm going to dive in, and let's hope we get that creak.

Ooh, yes, I'm pleased with that.

And there we are, "Your parcel of joy".

F&M - fabulous and mine.

HE CHUCKLES

There we are, so we'll move that.

This almost looks like a Father Christmas beard, doesn't it?

Let's just delve in. And, oh!

I love, I love...

Of course, outside Fortnum & Mason's itself is the clock,

and they use the clock on a lot of their packaging.

County Biscuits, and I imagine the Home Counties.

Ah, excellent. Excellent. Look at that.

This is Royal Blend. They've got a fantastic selection of teas.

It makes sense that it's Royal.

You know, you can't get more posh than Royal, can you?

It's so exciting, isn't it? It really is like a lucky dip.

And look, here, we've got a Fortnum & Mason St James Pudding.

"A delicious and tempting tradition."

A white Bordeaux.

Cote du Rhone.

Drink is a huge part of a Fortnum's hamper.

GIGGLES EXCITEDLY

Apricot and Port Chutney, we may...

Look, I'm covered. This isn't dandruff.

It's really exciting,

I had ABSOLUTELY no idea what was gonna be in there.

There's a pudding in there,

there's biscuits, all the different things.

There's booze, I'm happy.

Well, I think after all that hard work

of lucky-dipping into that amazing hamper,

I think I've earnt, erm, one of these Champagne truffles.

The reason why I'm smiling is, you open it,

and written in gold lettering, it says, "Love at first bite."

EXCLAIMS APPROVINGLY

Love at first bite, indeed.

The now iconic hampers

are probably Fortnum & Mason's most widely recognised product.

The brand was created back in 1707...

..when royal footman William Fortnum

went into business with his landlord, Hugh Mason.

They founded their first store in St James's Market,

and their goods flew off the shelves.

In those days, there wasn't the refrigeration,

erm, freezers weren't around, erm...

there was nothing like vacuum-packing

or anything like that.

So to be able to produce foods that people could take away with them,

take in their carriages, was amazing,

and there's such a history at Fortnum & Mason

of preserving in so many different ways.

Pies would be an obvious way of doing that.

But increasingly, there's commercially-sold preserves,

pickles, ketchups and so forth.

So exactly how much

will a Fortnum & Mason hamper cost you this Christmas?

Well, their top-of-the-range Imperial Hamper

will set you back an eye-watering £6,000.

Where we've got hampers, Fortnum & Mason are the go-to, the expert.

Mainly, very luxurious items - chocolates, foods, wines.

A lot of things that Fortnum's have been known for year in, year out.

If you see one of those renowned wicker boxes,

you probably know you're in for a treat.

But if spending thousands on a hamper

is a bit beyond your budget this year,

there is one other place you could try.

Fortnum & Mason are not the only destination for hampers, though.

Lidl are coming into the market fast and furiously,

and that's why they'll be doing a create-your-own,

and obviously, at a price point much more affordable to many.

What exactly the discounter's hampers will include

is a closely-guarded secret...

..and won't be available in stores until the 30th of November.

But if you can't get your hands on a Lidl hamper yet,

where else could you get your gifts?

Cue the middle aisle.

The middle at Lidl is legendary.

It's basically the world's best pick and mix

of every kind of different product that you could ever ask for.

"Ooh, full-body waders under 30 quid."

Everything from a pair of sandals to a screwdriver

to candles of various different fragrances.

I've seen a weird camping light that doubled up as a radio.

Brilliant.

As a store manager, it was, er, the bane of my life.

It's just crazy, you know?

It's crazy and genius at the same time.

At Christmas, it's literally like Santa has exploded

all over the middle aisle.

It's bulging full of Christmas bits and bobs and jumpers,

and cookery pots and pans for the dinner and wrapping paper

and all kinds of manner of Christmas paraphernalia.

Sound random? That's the idea.

And the very reason shoppers like Sion Tomos Owen

can't get enough of it.

This year, my family and friends have decided to do a secret Santa,

so I thought, "Where better to have some fun and unique gifts

"than the middle aisle in Lidl?"

So we've come to Bristol to see what we can get.

Doing one's Christmas shopping in the middle aisle

may be a novel concept

to those who usually buy their gifts from high-end stores,

but it could deliver a bargain.

They're offering a good value for the price paid.

The element of surprise is important, too.

Imagining opening that hamper only to discover waders.

Customers get the idea of coming into a Lidl store,

having kind of a treasure hunt of products which are new every week.

So, what treasure has Sion dug up?

So, the first one is for my buddy Rhodri.

And, er, how does he like his eggs in the morning?

He likes them with a deal.

So, this is an egg cooker.

And despite the eggs coming in half a dozen and a dozen,

this one cooks seven at the same time.

And the second item is the deal of the day.

I've got... king-size electric blanket.

Er, so, this is for my wife.

People might say, you know, "You shouldn't buy ironing boards

"and hoovers and things like this for your wife,"

but this, I think she'd appreciate.

Sion's snapped up his Christmas gifts, but sometimes,

the true value of middle aisle products only becomes clear later.

The middle of Lidl, if you were to be really lucky,

sometimes even creates some products which become collectables.

Like these trainers that were originally sold for £14...

but were later seen trading on eBay for 450.

Those are practically Fortnum's prices.

Perhaps Lidl's most anticipated middle-aisle item

is the increasingly popular Christmas jumper.

Coming in at a pocket-friendly £7.99.

So, what else is on offer this year?

This Christmas, in the middle at Lidl,

I think one of the best-sellers is gonna be the crockpot,

which is 14.99.

It really fits into those trends

of people making much more food at home.

It's low-use on the energy front,

but it actually provides a really hearty, economical meal

at the end of the day.

I think that one's gonna sell out quickly.

Coming up...

We discover Fortnum & Mason's royal connections.

To have her walking through your doors

is such a... impressive endorsement.

And it's round three in the battle of the taste tests.

It's a bit... Quite boozy.

It is boozy, but... Yes, that is a very special pud.

CHERIE LUNGHI: It's Christmas, a time when retailers go all-out

to draw customers to their stores...

..and one of the attractions at Fortnum & Mason

over the festive season

are the famous window displays at their store on Piccadilly.

Fortnum & Mason have always excelled at window dressing,

particularly at Christmas time.

I always think there's a story to be told.

They link it to their heritage,

they look at the beauty of their products,

they celebrate their brand there.

And 2023 is no exception.

This year, for their window display,

Fortnum & Mason have gone heavy on the nostalgia

and on the very brand-specific display.

They have a model of their shop,

they've got the lift inside the shop,

they've got their dresser with the teas on -

all of them made out of paper,

so it feels quite on-brand in terms of sustainability

and in terms of ethics.

At Christmas time, the store isn't just a feast for the eyes.

But what I love the most is they pipe Christmas music out to you,

so whilst you're stood enjoying the sight, enjoying this spectacle,

you also hear the music playing.

I think you have to take your hat off

to a brand that excels at doing this so well.

Whilst our favourite luxury retailer is adorned with Yuletide joy...

..the same can't be said for a trip to our modest supermarket.

Walking into a Lidl store at Christmas

is quite like walking into a Lidl store

the other 50-odd weeks of the year.

It's not particularly an offer that's going to change too much.

There might be a little bit of celebration in the decoration,

there might be a few more Christmas offer in terms of the products,

but, really, the store is the store.

Instead of highly decorated stores

or having a window display like Fortnum & Mason,

the discounter tries to attract shoppers during the festive season

through its advert.

Welcome to the Lidl School of Christmas!

The brand didn't air any ads in the UK until 2013,

but by the time this one hit our screens two years later,

it was finding its stride.

It's a really good idea, actually.

It's just basically where you learn, erm, how to react or cope

in different scenarios over the Christmas period.

You're on lobster. This is lovely with a bit of garnish.

What we're looking for - yes.

What we're not looking for - no.

So, with the 2015 Christmas ad,

Lidl was really trying to show how it understands British Christmas.

This is my colleague, Stanley.

Yeah, he loves that.

Got the jokes, you've got the dressed-up dog,

erm, you've got the leftover turkey,

you've got the practising getting a rubbish present,

you know, all these kind of little bits of Christmas, Lidl understands.

Any other ideas? Father Christmas.

Made him look a fool.

The Christmas ad shows

a really deep understanding of British culture and humour.

The Germans, you know, I don't want to be stereotypical,

but the British have got a better sense of humour.

I'd forgotten that Lidl was German.

That's how good the commercial is.

It certainly helped boost sales,

which rose nearly 20% that Christmas.

But will this year's ad do the same?

RACCOON TRILLS

SQUEAKS

# There's a light Shining bright... #

Lidl's Christmas advert for 2023...

the idea, the concept being that there's an accident,

a favourite Christmas ornament gets broken,

and this lovely raccoon, going to find a replacement toy

for the bereft young boy.

SQUEAKS

Against all odds, the raccoon returns with a charming toy monkey,

and it all has a certain air of familiarity.

I was waiting any moment

for the raccoon to bounce on a trampoline, to be honest with you.

It felt very derivative, didn't it?

# There's help along the way

# With friends like these... #

You're waiting for it to be John Lewis, and it isn't.

And that's the sweet spot for Lidl.

# You're never alone

# Cos they'll always guide The way back home. #

But for British shoppers, there's an elephant -

or rather, raccoon - in the room...

as it's an animal we don't have in the UK.

DOG GROWLS

I don't mind the fact it's a Christmas raccoon at all.

We've had Christmas penguins, we've had dogs that bounce on trampolines.

But not everyone is so keen on the American guest.

You don't want a raccoon in your house.

Block up that cat flap.

That just strikes me as really unhygienic.

However, if you do want Raccoon or Monkey from the advert,

take a stroll through Lidl's middle aisle,

where, if you're fast enough, you may just catch one.

As after previously refusing to sell Lidl Bear merchandise,

Lidl will be stocking these characters as a limited plush toy.

It's now time for the main event - Christmas dinner.

Both retailers offer a range of turkeys this festive season,

and when it comes to dessert,

nothing is more indulgent than a Christmas pudding,

and our taste testers couldn't be more thrilled.

# Now bring us some figgy pudding

# And bring some out here. #

We have, as we had before, Sainsbury's, Fortnum's and Lidl,

and then we have a mystery contender.

One, two, three, four - in that order. OK.

And don't they look handsome specimens?

Shall we delve in?

First up, is our mystery pudding,

which is actually Lidl's lower-priced basic brand,

costing just £3.69.

So what will they think of it?

Just raisins and a bit of peel.

There's not, you know,

when you can taste the kind of boozy-soaked plump fruit.

Hmm. Yes.

Not getting enough of that.

Not off to a great start.

But surely, Fortnum & Mason's premium pud,

costing £60, will win them 'round?

It's a little larger than the other puds

and comes complete with ceramic bowl.

Quite sweet. I think the orange is delicious.

Mm! And the almond is delicious.

And the pudding itself, I don't really rate.

I had high hopes for it

cos it just looks so beautiful and decorative,

but actually, the flavour is really disappointing.

Oh, dear. It seems the puddings are not hitting the sweet spot.

What about the next one,

from Sainsbury's Taste The Difference range,

costing £10.50?

Ooh, look at these little bits of nut, how lovely!

It smells nice.

Yes. And a real hit from the orange peel that's in there.

That's more like it. Mm.

Texture. I love that suet-y texture as well.

A resounding success.

And finally, Lidl's deluxe pudding, at £9.99.

Can it compete?

It is boozy. It's really quite boozy.

And a bit claggy.

It's not got the same poise and balance.

So which is their favourite?

Well, I think we certainly have a frontrunner, don't we?

Definitely. We certainly do.

And it is lucky number three. Yep.

The winner is Sainsbury's Taste The Difference

18-month-aged Christmas pudding,

with Lidl Deluxe coming in a close second,

Fortnum & Mason trailing in third

and Lidl's basic Favorina brand coming in fourth.

Now to reveal the truth.

Our testers are unaware which is which.

And the mystery, it's another Lidl.

But we were right insofar as this is Lidl's deluxe range,

this is Lidl's budget range. OK.

Good old Sainsbury's. Yeah, well done, Sainsbury's.

Yes, that is a very special pud.

It's now even-stevens in the taste tests,

with all three retail brands winning one so far.

Lidl might be able to tempt some of us through its doors

with luxury for less this Christmas,

but there's a certain kind of patron that the yellow and blue brand

have yet to entice.

If you're looking for a gift fit for a king,

then Fortnum & Mason is the place to turn to.

From its earliest days, the luxury brand has had a strong royal link.

And in March 2012, they were underlined again

as the late Queen, Camilla and Kate

chose the store for their first joint engagement.

There, you had the Queen,

you had a future Queen in the Duchess of Cambridge...

Do you like chocolate? I love chocolate, yes.

..and another future Queen, Queen Consort,

in the form of the Duchess of Cornwall.

So it was a very special occasion for Fortnum's,

and I think a very special occasion for the Queen

in her Diamond Jubilee year.

To have her seen walking through your doors

is such a... impressive endorsement,

and one that any retailer would be delighted to have.

There were three hampers for the three royal visitors,

who seemed eager to discover what treats were inside.

They included dog biscuits, with the Queen's corgis

and Kate's new puppy, Lupo, clearly in mind.

The visit provided Fortnum's with priceless PR.

The latest in a long line of royal opportunities

it's been able to exploit.

Before becoming a shopkeeper,

the store's founder, William Fortnum,

was a footman to Queen Anne.

In addition to the wages, he also got access

to the stubs of the beeswax candles,

which are worth quite a lot of money.

It was one of the perks of the job.

So he was able to sell those and make extra money that way.

It was this money that allowed William to go into business

with Hugh Mason in the first place.

FANFARE

Further royal custom came

when William's son entered the service of Queen Charlotte.

And in 1854, it was Fortnum's that Queen Victoria turned to

when she wanted to send a huge quantity of beef tea

to soldiers in the Crimean War.

The store has never shied away

from creating its own royal opportunities.

In 1935, during George V's Silver Jubilee celebrations,

London teemed with international VIPs,

from princes to bishops to maharajas.

Fortnum & Mason set up a kind of a special department

to cater for those visiting dignitaries, as it were,

including lots of foods that are suitable for a Hindu or Muslim diet.

And I think this is a reflection of their kind of expertise

in those sorts of foods.

But also, I think, a willingness to raise their status

and to generate some additional turnover, I guess.

Fortnum's would also feed a home-grown

and more controversial Royal.

In June 1937, the recently-abdicated Edward VIII

was living in exile in France.

The abdication crisis is caused by Edward VIII's desire

to marry an American divorcee, Mrs Simpson.

He may have lost the title of "King",

but Edward still expected to eat like one,

especially at breakfast time,

when only one ingredient and supplier would do.

So this is just like the kippers

that Edward would have had for breakfast every day,

and he wasn't getting them from any local fishmonger,

Fortnum & Mason were flying them over

every single day for him to have.

They were Craster kippers from Northumberland.

Very heavily smoked, very, very oaky, and he must have loved them

cos every day for breakfast, that was what he had

when he was living in France, waiting to marry Wallis.

And there is your breakfast, fit for a king.

Today, Fortnum's royal connections remain as strong as ever.

As a former personal chef to the King,

Carolyn Rob understands the attraction of Fortnum's

to the Royal household.

When I was working as a royal chef,

it was just incredible to have Fortnum & Mason

as the sort of the local round-the-corner place

to go and buy food.

If there was something special I needed,

I could always rely on the fact Fortnum & Mason would have it,

something like truffle oil, or a particular brand of tea,

or a particular type of jelly I might need to go into a jus

to go with some game, or something really specialist like that.

And at Christmas time,

the Royal Family enjoyed the premium products offered by the store.

In the approach to Christmas, it was always exciting

because when I was working at Highgrove,

there were always quite a number

of wonderful Fortnum & Mason hampers that would arrive.

I think some of the favourite items that would come out of those

were caviar, which was always a really special treat,

and that's something that you never purchased as chefs.

That was only ever on the menu when it was given to them as a gift.

And like many modern shoppers,

the Royals often opt for home delivery at Christmas time.

Buckingham Palace always had a direct line to the counters,

so if they wanted to order cheese and things like that,

they would always come to us.

We would prepare it,

and then it would be sent over to Buckingham Palace.

And like any shop, even Fortnum & Mason

sometimes gets the odd dissatisfied customer.

I remember getting told by my boss

that I needed to go to Buckingham Palace

to pick up a Stilton cheese,

and I was met by this guy, who gave me this jar of Stilton,

he took the top off, and it really was rotten.

It was... terrible mistake had been made.

He told me this story that the Queen herself had opened it up,

I don't know whether that's true or not,

but he really tore me off a strip,

and I'm just, like, just the messenger.

So, anyway, picked it up, brought it back to Fortnum & Masons.

But at least I can say,

"Yes, I have been inside Buckingham Palace...

"to get told off!"

Coming up, we discover who comes out on top

in the all-important decider taste test.

And we discover who does Christmas better.

I wonder if they do very small bottles

cos I think I liked...

You must not be left on your own with a bottle of that!

CHERIE LUNGHI: It's Christmas, a time when many of us

like to indulge in the finer things in life.

But if the festive budget is feeling the squeeze this year,

should one consider shopping at a German discounter like Lidl

rather than a posh retailer like Fortnum & Mason?

And as Christmas dinner draws to a close,

it's time for a festive tipple.

At the moment, it's 1-1 in the taste-test battle

between Fortnum & Mason, Lidl and Sainsbury's.

So it's all to play for in our bid to discover

I really like that, too.

Our panel are about to try

that most traditional of Christmas tipples, Port.

I think it's time for a little libation.

I agree. As a reward.

We've earned it. We have earned it.

First up, number one.

Well, this is very deep and plummy.

Yeah. Plummy in colour.

It doesn't leave you with much, though. No.

I find it slightly boozy. And I know it's a fortified wine.

I know what you mean. But I find the alcohol slightly out of whack.

Let's see if number two fares any better.

Oh, I like that one. It smells really lovely.

It smells good. Ooh, yeah. Doesn't it just?

This is even nicer. Walnuts?

This is very nice. No wonder people get drunk off this!

And it leaves your palate,

there's something working in there after you've swallowed it.

It's very warming as well, isn't it?

To me, that is superior. I agree.

That's very nice. I think it's really lovely.

A resounding success.

But can number three compete?

And then, in a similar part of the colour palette,

we have number three.

But now the flavour of number two

has made me a bit more biased towards this amber-y colour.

And it seems all that liquor may have gone to our host's head.

Ooh! I beg your pardon! I beg your pardon.

See what you mean about the alcohol content!

It's quite sharp. I haven't tested it yet.

It just sort of arrests you quite quickly.

I think it's got none of the subtlety of the one before.

It's not as complex as number two for me,

but it's perfectly palatable.

I couldn't drink this all night long.

Which is probably a good thing. I'm gone.

I know, I'm so squiffy, it does have an impact, doesn't it? Golly!

Perhaps I need a hunk of bread? Or a lie-down?

Time to find out which one they will be serving

at their Christmas dinner this year.

I think we do have a clear winner again here. We are unanimous.

I think we're all in concert that it's number two,

which is lovely.

Number two is the winner. Number two was the winner.

Number one was the loser. And number two was number... two.

And our loser, number three was number one. No!

No, number one was number three.

Number one is our loser, number three.

Number one is number three. Yeah, runner-up, number three.

And number three is number one.

Oh, I'm not sure. I've lost count.

I think whatever Jonathan has just said is right.

Number two, our winner.

Where do you think it's from?

Surely, it has to be Fortnum's?

You'd hope so, wouldn't you?

Our second place was our beloved Fortnum's.

Wow. Was it?

And our frontrunner is, indeed, Lidl. Wow!

I've never been happier to be wrong.

Wow! That is wonderful.

Our winning Port is from Lidl at £11.99,

followed by Fortnum & Mason at £27.95.

And finally, Sainsbury's, at £12.

I wonder if they do very small bottles cos I think...

You mustn't be left in your own with a bottle of that.

Lidl's done it!

Winning two out of the four taste tests.

So if our panel is anything to go by,

it seems that it IS possible to get luxury for less

on some products at the discounter.

And it could be argued that THEY do Christmas better.

So should the nation's posh shoppers

stick with Fortnum & Mason this Christmas?

Or should they switch to Lidl?

Fortnum & Mason will absolutely have their traditional shoppers,

year in, year out, who resolutely want to commit

to having products and an experience with that brand.

So maybe this year, you should buy the hamper from Fortnum's,

and fill it with goodies from the discounter?

I mean, it's only a social crime if you get caught, right?

Lidl are always ambitious when it comes to deluxe products,

and those have been absolutely areas where Lidl have focused intently

to get the awards, the recognition, improving the offering.

Whether you treat yourself to premium products

from a posh store this Christmas,

or go for deluxe on a budget from a discounter,

the most important thing this Christmas

is to have a jolly good time.

This has been a tranche of heaven, and I don't know about you,

but I feel thoroughly, thoroughly festive.

I'd like to go out on a carol. Me too. We can sing!

# We wish you a Merry Christmas

# We wish you a Merry Christmas

# We wish you a Merry Christmas

# And a Happy New Year! #

Cheers, everybody. Merry Christmas!