All language subtitles for Lidl.vs.Fortnum.And.Mason.Who.Does.Christmas.Better.2023.1080p.WEB.H264-CBFM

CHERIE LUNGHI:
Christmas is a time of indulgence

and celebration
right across Britain.

But with food inflation soaring
this year,

we're all having to keep a close eye
on the pounds in our pocket -

even the better off.

Challenging times economically.

Everyone's looking for
value for money.

So, for those who like to shop
at high-end department stores

like Fortnum & Mason,

should they consider
switching to a low-cost discounter

like Lidl this Christmas?

Lidl, traditionally,

has been seen to be aiming
at poorer members of society.

But that's not true any more.

In this programme,

we put these unlikely retail rivals
to the test...

Mmm.

under the Christmas tree
this year...

It's really exciting.

I had absolutely no idea
what was gonna be in there.

..analysing how each retailer
promotes themselves

over the festive season...

Lidl was really trying to show how
it understands British Christmas.

..and we'll be putting
their festive treats

head-to-head in taste tests...

Our least favourite is Fortnum's.

No way.

..to discover if Fortnum & Mason's
premium products

are worth splashing out for...

Fortnum & Mason set the standard
at Christmas.

..or if you can get
luxury for less at Lidl...

The Deluxe range
is better than the basic stuff.

..as we discover
who does Christmas better.

FESTIVE MUSIC

From mince pies to champagne
to gifts under the tree,

Christmas is a time when many of us
splash out at posh shops.

But in recent years,
there have been these strange

blue and yellow stores
popping up all over the place,

offering more affordable luxury...

the German discounter Lidl.

Traditionally,
this is a time of year

where we kick back a bit,

where we spend a lot on food,

we spend a lot on presents
for our friends and our family.

Everyone's looking
for value for money

no matter where they sit
in the food chain.

Customarily, the extremely well-off
have done their Christmas shopping

at an iconic store
in London's West End.

181 Piccadilly
has been the home of Fortnum & Mason

since 1840.

But is this most traditional
of department stores

now challenged
by cheeky upstart Lidl?

I think anybody that walks through
the front door in Fortnum & Mason's

is actually transported
into a different world.

It's like walking into
a child's vision

of what a shop is.

The store is spread over six floors.

On the fourth is the tea salon,

where weary shoppers
enjoy indulgent cream teas.

The third
is crammed with everything

for the discerning gentleman.

The second
is fragrances and beauty.

One floor down,
you'll find the homeware department.

Then on the ground floor,

we find the goods
for which it is best known...

tea, coffee, biscuits,
preserves, chocolates, cakes.

Down the central spiral staircase,
and it's fresh food -

pies, bread, charcuterie,
cheese, meat and fish and wine.

It's an Aladdin's Cave of wonders

just as long
as you have the money to spare.

Fortnum & Mason
are a high-end grocery retailer.

And when they were founded
in the early 18th century,

that really was THE place that
the fashionable society lived in.

So they have never been a company
that appealed to a budget shopper.

You can spend thousands,
indeed, tens of thousands,

dressing your home,
curating your hamper,

buying truly the luxury in life.

Like a silver-plated teapot set
for a mere £1,300,

or half a kilo of beluga caviar

for three-and-a-half
thousand pounds.

And during the holiday season,

the store transforms
into a festive wonderland

which everyone is invited to enjoy,

not just the well-heeled.

Fortnum & Mason at Christmas
is crowded.

Lots and lots of tourists,

but also lots and lots
of London-based shoppers

who are in there because they do
their daily grocery shopping there

or because they want something
that's a bit of a treat.

This is a brand
that really serves Christmas well.

But what to do if you usually buy
your seasonal treats

at Fortnum & Mason,
but you're feeling the pinch

because the heating bill on the
country pile has rocketed this year?

Should the nation's posh shoppers

look elsewhere
for their Christmas shop

and even consider
German discounter Lidl?

Lidl, traditionally, has been seen
to be aiming at the working-class

and poorer members of society.

But that's not true any more

and hasn't been
for a very long time, actually.

Lidl started life in Germany
in the 1930s.

Lidl's history
goes back to pre-war Germany

when Joseph Schwartz was running
a fruit-and-veg wholesaler.

The brand
arrived on our shores in 1994

to little fanfare
and much confusion.

They went into the stores and said,
"Why would you want to shop here?"

It didn't look like Waitrose.

Is this biscuit
the equivalent to a Ginger Nut?

I don't know, it's all in German.

Pickled herrings in jars,
you know, which were alien.

I think there was
this definite perception

that this was a shop
for poor people.

At the discounter, you can get
a can of baked beans for 46p

or cranberry sauce for Christmas
for just 69p.

But Lidl came up with a strategy
to move upmarket

and steal trade
from the posher retailers.

The Deluxe range.

They created a range
of around 200 products

with richer ingredients,
nicer packaging

and each, carefully chosen
to appeal specifically to UK tastes.

The Deluxe range
has all of the visual cues

that tell you that this is
just a little bit better

than the basic stuff.

Lidl are offering a much more
affordable Christmas mix,

and they're saying,
"Put as against all the competition.

"Put us against
those real luxury brands.

"See how we taste test."

Lidl started winning taste tests
against other retailers.

I know!

So can their Deluxe range
really compete

with the premium products
from the department store?

To find out, we've put together
a panel of discerning palates

who will taste test the products.

They have no idea
which is from which retailer.

They include
chef and restaurateur Jacob Kenedy,

food writers and broadcasters
Alexandra Dudley and Jonathan Vang

and actor and presenter
Tom Read Wilson.

We're starting Christmas Day
with breakfast.

And after
we've unwrapped the presents,

and while the grouse
is cooking in the oven...

It's quite transporting, that aroma.

..it's time for
a warming cup of coffee.

Fortnum & Mason are known
for their tea and coffee,

so they should win this one
hands down.

But can our panel work out
which ground coffee

comes from which retailer?

Fortnum & Mason,
Lidl or Sainsbury's?

First up is coffee one.

I don't love the smell.
No, I don't.

It smells a bit weak.

Weak is exactly
what I was just about to say.

I'm not wild about that.
I think it's awful.

I think it's dreadful.
It's just not great.

I just think it's a bit bland
and slightly bitter.

Underwhelmed.
Let's move on to number two.

So, coffee one
isn't perking up our panel.

Will the second fare any better?

Well, it smells better, definitely.

Yes! It packs a bit more
of a wallop, this one, doesn't it?

It sort of got notes of spices...

Mm.
..like cinnamon and...

Mmm.

It's got a bit more depth, I think,

than the last one.
Certainly has.

More quaffable.
Yeah.

Yes!
Definitely.

Finally, it is time to sample
coffee number three.

Ooh, even darker!
That's a lovely rich colour.

Yeah, that's a really good colour.
Even the pour of it.

It feels
slightly more sort of viscous.

Oh, I say!

I'm looking forward to this one.
Me too.

That's nice.

That's my favourite.
It tastes like a cup of coffee.

It's like being...
I feel like Goldilocks!

Oh, that's divine.

So, which do our panel think
is which?

So, I think we're unanimous
in feeling that number one is

perhaps the lesser
in terms of quality?

Yeah.

And our number two is a clear
silver medallist for all of us.

Yeah.
Yep.

And number three is our frontrunner.

100%.
Definitely.

Well, now we need to learn
from whence they came!

Do we think that our favourite,
number three,

is probably from Fortnum's?

I'd say so.
I think they do coffee and tea well.

Number three,
I would associate with Fortnum's

because it is quite luxurious,
it tastes...

Rich.
..rich

and has lovely complex flavours.

All right,
well, let's find out.

Our least favourite coffee

is Fortnum's!

No, was it?!
Number one was Fortnum's, yes.

Wow!
Number two,

our dependable, palatable chum

is from Sainsbury's.
OK.

And number three,
our frontrunner by a country mile

is Lidl!
I should have gone with my gut.

You were quite right about that.

That's what I thought
to begin with.

That's amazing!
Yeah.

So it's a shock first result
in the taste test.

Lidl has come out top

at a cost of just £1.27 per 100g.

Sainsbury's is second
at £1.72 per 100g,

as for the third-place coffee...

Our slightly disappointing Fortnum's

is a stonking...

£28.
No way!

No way!
..for 100g of coffee.

It is, it is absolutely true.

So in the battle of the taste tests,
it's 1-0 to Lidl.

Coming up, we reveal
the Christmas treats

found in Lidl's
famous middle aisle.

It's crazy and genius
at the same time.

I think that one's
gonna sell out quickly.

And can Fortnum & Mason fight back
in the battle of the taste tests?

The aftertaste is a little bit...

Petroleum.
Petroleum.

I didn't wanna say it, but, yeah.
It is!

It's Christmas,

and for high-end department store
Fortnum & Mason

and German discounter Lidl,

it's the busiest time of the year.

And we're putting these
unlikely retail rivals to the test

to see if one should stick with
the pricey premium products

this Christmas

or if it's possible
to get luxury for less.

Nothing says Christmas luxury
like smoked salmon.

Maybe served with
creamy scrambled eggs and toast.

Our panel are blind taste testing
smoked salmon

from Lidl,
Fortnum & Mason and Sainsbury's.

Which will give our panellists
that sinking feeling,

and which will swim away
with the top spot?

So, I'm dishing up
with number one first.

I don't know whether it gains
some merit,

its leafiness is wonderful.

Mm-mm!

So, I loved it.

I'd possibly like it
a tiny bit softer.

But I thought it was really,
really good.

Texture was great,
flavour was great.

Alexandra?
I liked it.

I thought it had
a very good smoky level.

It could have been
slightly less salty for me.

Jonathan? I think that
would be a crowd-pleaser.

I think that's everyone's...
a one-size-fits-all. Yes.

For me, it's slightly too salty.

Next up, smoked salmon number two.

I have high hopes for this one...
Yes!

Yes! Yes!
..so let's give it a go.

Mmm. I really like that.

I really like that, too.

There's a really
mellow smokiness to it.

Yes.
I really like the texture of that.

And it feels...
I think it's a bit soft.

I like that.
Do you?

Cos it feels to me
more like fresh fish

that's been worked with
rather than more processed.

You can get your teeth through it?

I don't think it was quite as salty
as the one before.

A little bit gentler.
I think it was nicely balanced,

and the aftertaste,
I think, is very nice.

I think it could be smokier,
and it was a bit soft for me.

Salmon number two
is dividing the panel.

What about our final offering?

I think it's time
to turn our attention

to number three.

You can definitely taste the smoke.

It's got a slightly lingering
fishiness, but not unpleasant.

The lingering aftertaste
is a little bit...

Petroleum.
Petroleum.

I didn't wanna say it,
but, yes, it is.

It is! It's like it's been
sprayed with smoke at the end.

I think that was
my least favourite.

Salmon sampled,

it's time for our panel
to guess which is which.

Number two was my favourite,

and I reckon
it might also be the premium.

Right.

Number three was my least favourite,

and I reckon number one
was the cheapest.

Time to reveal the truth.

Number one is Sainsbury's,

our second favourite
around the table.

Number three was Lidl,

our least favourite
around the table.

And our unanimous favourite,
number two

is, indeed, from Fortnum's.
Ah, there we go, well done.

I've always said
"You can't buy class,"

but it turns out with smoked salmon,
you can!

Fortnum & Mason's
winning smoked salmon

is the most expensive
at £7.50 per hundred grams.

More expensive
than Sainsbury's at £4.75,

and Lidl at £3.49
per hundred grams, respectively.

I would say roughly,
there is a correlation

between price and quality here,
which is not always the case.

After such a refined breakfast,

and while staff
prep the Christmas feast,

it's time for presents.

And at Fortnum & Mason,
that can only mean one thing...

the Christmas hamper.

The Fortnum & Mason hamper
is simply a status symbol.

Have one in your house, and you've
been gifted the gift of luxury.

The hamper IS
the Fortnum & Mason icon.

It is so special.

They are a badge of honour,
they're a status symbol,

but crucially, what they say is,
somebody really loves you,

and they've given you
this lovely thing.

Fortnum's sells
over 120,000 hampers a year...

most of them exported
around the world -

the bulk of them
during the festive season.

Philip Ardagh's first hamper

began a lifelong love affair
with Fortnum's food.

I think the first time
I actually received a hamper

was when I worked in advertising
in the early 1980s.

It's very exciting,
it's like a box of delights -

you don't know what's in it,
and it makes this fantastic creak,

which I'm looking forward to
when I open this up.

The hampers are popular as gifts
at Christmas in particular.

So what's it like to delve into
the world-renowned wicker basket?

Right, well, this is certainly
the moment I've been waiting for.

I'm going to dive in,
and let's hope we get that creak.

Ooh, yes, I'm pleased with that.

And there we are,
"Your parcel of joy".

F&M - fabulous and mine.

HE CHUCKLES

There we are, so we'll move that.

This almost looks like a
Father Christmas beard, doesn't it?

Let's just delve in. And, oh!

I love, I love...

Of course, outside Fortnum & Mason's
itself is the clock,

and they use the clock
on a lot of their packaging.

County Biscuits,
and I imagine the Home Counties.

Ah, excellent. Excellent.
Look at that.

This is Royal Blend. They've got
a fantastic selection of teas.

It makes sense that it's Royal.

You know, you can't get more posh
than Royal, can you?

It's so exciting, isn't it?
It really is like a lucky dip.

And look, here, we've got
a Fortnum & Mason St James Pudding.

"A delicious
and tempting tradition."

A white Bordeaux.

Cote du Rhone.

Drink is a huge part
of a Fortnum's hamper.

GIGGLES EXCITEDLY

Apricot and Port Chutney, we may...

Look, I'm covered.
This isn't dandruff.

It's really exciting,

I had ABSOLUTELY no idea
what was gonna be in there.

There's a pudding in there,

there's biscuits,
all the different things.

There's booze, I'm happy.

Well, I think after
all that hard work

of lucky-dipping
into that amazing hamper,

I think I've earnt, erm,
one of these Champagne truffles.

The reason why I'm smiling is,
you open it,

and written in gold lettering,
it says, "Love at first bite."

EXCLAIMS APPROVINGLY

Love at first bite, indeed.

The now iconic hampers

are probably Fortnum & Mason's
most widely recognised product.

The brand was created
back in 1707...

..when royal footman William Fortnum

went into business
with his landlord, Hugh Mason.

They founded their first store
in St James's Market,

and their goods
flew off the shelves.

In those days,
there wasn't the refrigeration,

erm, freezers weren't around, erm...

there was nothing
like vacuum-packing

or anything like that.

So to be able to produce foods that
people could take away with them,

take in their carriages,
was amazing,

and there's such a history
at Fortnum & Mason

of preserving
in so many different ways.

Pies would be an obvious way
of doing that.

But increasingly,
there's commercially-sold preserves,

pickles, ketchups and so forth.

So exactly how much

will a Fortnum & Mason hamper
cost you this Christmas?

Well, their
top-of-the-range Imperial Hamper

will set you back
an eye-watering £6,000.

Where we've got hampers, Fortnum
& Mason are the go-to, the expert.

Mainly, very luxurious items -
chocolates, foods, wines.

A lot of things that Fortnum's have
been known for year in, year out.

If you see one of those
renowned wicker boxes,

you probably know
you're in for a treat.

But if spending thousands
on a hamper

is a bit beyond your budget
this year,

there is one other place
you could try.

Fortnum & Mason are not the only
destination for hampers, though.

Lidl are coming into the market
fast and furiously,

and that's why they'll be doing
a create-your-own,

and obviously, at a price point
much more affordable to many.

What exactly the discounter's
hampers will include

is a closely-guarded secret...

..and won't be available in stores
until the 30th of November.

But if you can't get your hands on
a Lidl hamper yet,

where else could you get your gifts?

Cue the middle aisle.

The middle at Lidl is legendary.

It's basically
the world's best pick and mix

of every kind of different product
that you could ever ask for.

"Ooh, full-body waders
under 30 quid."

Everything from a pair of sandals
to a screwdriver

to candles of various
different fragrances.

I've seen a weird camping light
that doubled up as a radio.

Brilliant.

As a store manager, it was, er,
the bane of my life.

It's just crazy, you know?

It's crazy and genius
at the same time.

At Christmas, it's literally
like Santa has exploded

all over the middle aisle.

It's bulging full of Christmas
bits and bobs and jumpers,

and cookery pots and pans
for the dinner and wrapping paper

and all kinds of manner
of Christmas paraphernalia.

Sound random? That's the idea.

And the very reason shoppers
like Sion Tomos Owen

can't get enough of it.

This year, my family and friends
have decided to do a secret Santa,

so I thought, "Where better
to have some fun and unique gifts

"than the middle aisle in Lidl?"

So we've come to Bristol
to see what we can get.

Doing one's Christmas shopping
in the middle aisle

may be a novel concept

to those who usually buy their gifts
from high-end stores,

but it could deliver a bargain.

They're offering a good value
for the price paid.

The element of surprise
is important, too.

Imagining opening that hamper
only to discover waders.

Customers get the idea
of coming into a Lidl store,

having kind of a treasure hunt of
products which are new every week.

So, what treasure has Sion dug up?

So, the first one
is for my buddy Rhodri.

And, er, how does he like
his eggs in the morning?

He likes them with a deal.

So, this is an egg cooker.

And despite the eggs coming
in half a dozen and a dozen,

this one cooks seven
at the same time.

And the second item
is the deal of the day.

I've got...
king-size electric blanket.

Er, so, this is for my wife.

People might say, you know,
"You shouldn't buy ironing boards

"and hoovers and things like this
for your wife,"

but this, I think she'd appreciate.

Sion's snapped up
his Christmas gifts, but sometimes,

the true value of middle aisle
products only becomes clear later.

The middle of Lidl,
if you were to be really lucky,

sometimes even creates some products
which become collectables.

Like these trainers
that were originally sold for £14...

but were later seen trading on eBay
for 450.

Those are practically
Fortnum's prices.

Perhaps Lidl's most anticipated
middle-aisle item

is the increasingly popular
Christmas jumper.

Coming in
at a pocket-friendly £7.99.

So, what else is on offer this year?

This Christmas,
in the middle at Lidl,

I think one of the best-sellers
is gonna be the crockpot,

which is 14.99.

It really fits into those trends

of people making much more food
at home.

It's low-use on the energy front,

but it actually provides
a really hearty, economical meal

at the end of the day.

I think that one's
gonna sell out quickly.

Coming up...

We discover
Fortnum & Mason's royal connections.

To have her walking through
your doors

is such a... impressive endorsement.

And it's round three
in the battle of the taste tests.

It's a bit...
Quite boozy.

It is boozy, but...
Yes, that is a very special pud.

CHERIE LUNGHI: It's Christmas,
a time when retailers go all-out

to draw customers to their stores...

..and one of the attractions
at Fortnum & Mason

over the festive season

are the famous window displays
at their store on Piccadilly.

Fortnum & Mason have always excelled
at window dressing,

particularly at Christmas time.

I always think there's
a story to be told.

They link it to their heritage,

they look at
the beauty of their products,

they celebrate their brand there.

And 2023 is no exception.

This year, for their window display,

Fortnum & Mason have gone heavy
on the nostalgia

and on
the very brand-specific display.

They have a model of their shop,

they've got the lift
inside the shop,

they've got their dresser
with the teas on -

all of them made out of paper,

so it feels quite on-brand
in terms of sustainability

and in terms of ethics.

At Christmas time, the store
isn't just a feast for the eyes.

But what I love the most is they
pipe Christmas music out to you,

so whilst you're stood enjoying
the sight, enjoying this spectacle,

you also hear the music playing.

I think you have
to take your hat off

to a brand that excels
at doing this so well.

Whilst our favourite luxury retailer
is adorned with Yuletide joy...

..the same can't be said for a trip
to our modest supermarket.

Walking into a Lidl store
at Christmas

is quite like walking into
a Lidl store

the other 50-odd weeks of the year.

It's not particularly an offer
that's going to change too much.

There might be a little bit
of celebration in the decoration,

there might be a few more Christmas
offer in terms of the products,

but, really, the store is the store.

Instead of highly decorated stores

or having a window display
like Fortnum & Mason,

the discounter tries to attract
shoppers during the festive season

through its advert.

Welcome to
the Lidl School of Christmas!

The brand didn't air any ads
in the UK until 2013,

but by the time this one
hit our screens two years later,

it was finding its stride.

It's a really good idea, actually.

It's just basically where you learn,
erm, how to react or cope

in different scenarios
over the Christmas period.

You're on lobster. This is lovely
with a bit of garnish.

What we're looking for - yes.

What we're not looking for - no.

So, with the 2015 Christmas ad,

Lidl was really trying to show how
it understands British Christmas.

This is my colleague, Stanley.

Yeah, he loves that.

Got the jokes,
you've got the dressed-up dog,

erm, you've got the leftover turkey,

you've got the practising
getting a rubbish present,

you know, all these kind of little
bits of Christmas, Lidl understands.

Any other ideas?
Father Christmas.

Made him look a fool.

The Christmas ad shows

a really deep understanding
of British culture and humour.

The Germans, you know,
I don't want to be stereotypical,

but the British have got
a better sense of humour.

I'd forgotten that Lidl was German.

That's how good the commercial is.

It certainly helped boost sales,

which rose nearly 20%
that Christmas.

But will this year's ad do the same?

RACCOON TRILLS

SQUEAKS

# There's a light
Shining bright... #

Lidl's Christmas advert for 2023...

the idea, the concept being
that there's an accident,

a favourite Christmas ornament
gets broken,

and this lovely raccoon,
going to find a replacement toy

for the bereft young boy.

SQUEAKS

Against all odds, the raccoon
returns with a charming toy monkey,

and it all has
a certain air of familiarity.

I was waiting any moment

for the raccoon to bounce on
a trampoline, to be honest with you.

It felt very derivative, didn't it?

# There's help along the way

# With friends like these... #

You're waiting for it to be
John Lewis, and it isn't.

And that's the sweet spot for Lidl.

# You're never alone

# Cos they'll always guide
The way back home. #

But for British shoppers,
there's an elephant -

or rather, raccoon - in the room...

as it's an animal we don't have
in the UK.

DOG GROWLS

I don't mind the fact
it's a Christmas raccoon at all.

We've had Christmas penguins, we've
had dogs that bounce on trampolines.

But not everyone
is so keen on the American guest.

You don't want a raccoon
in your house.

Block up that cat flap.

That just strikes me
as really unhygienic.

However, if you do want Raccoon
or Monkey from the advert,

take a stroll
through Lidl's middle aisle,

where, if you're fast enough,
you may just catch one.

As after previously refusing
to sell Lidl Bear merchandise,

Lidl will be stocking these
characters as a limited plush toy.

It's now time for the main event -
Christmas dinner.

Both retailers offer a range
of turkeys this festive season,

and when it comes to dessert,

nothing is more indulgent
than a Christmas pudding,

and our taste testers
couldn't be more thrilled.

# Now bring us some figgy pudding

# And bring some out here. #

We have, as we had before,
Sainsbury's, Fortnum's and Lidl,

and then we have
a mystery contender.

One, two, three, four -
in that order. OK.

And don't they look
handsome specimens?

Shall we delve in?

First up, is our mystery pudding,

which is actually Lidl's
lower-priced basic brand,

costing just £3.69.

So what will they think of it?

Just raisins and a bit of peel.

There's not, you know,

when you can taste the kind
of boozy-soaked plump fruit.

Hmm.
Yes.

Not getting enough of that.

Not off to a great start.

But surely,
Fortnum & Mason's premium pud,

costing £60, will win them 'round?

It's a little larger
than the other puds

and comes complete
with ceramic bowl.

Quite sweet.
I think the orange is delicious.

Mm!
And the almond is delicious.

And the pudding itself,
I don't really rate.

I had high hopes for it

cos it just looks
so beautiful and decorative,

but actually,
the flavour is really disappointing.

Oh, dear. It seems the puddings
are not hitting the sweet spot.

What about the next one,

from Sainsbury's
Taste The Difference range,

costing £10.50?

Ooh, look at these
little bits of nut, how lovely!

It smells nice.

Yes. And a real hit from
the orange peel that's in there.

That's more like it.
Mm.

Texture.
I love that suet-y texture as well.

A resounding success.

And finally,
Lidl's deluxe pudding, at £9.99.

Can it compete?

It is boozy.
It's really quite boozy.

And a bit claggy.

It's not got the same poise
and balance.

So which is their favourite?

Well, I think we certainly have
a frontrunner, don't we?

Definitely.
We certainly do.

And it is lucky number three.
Yep.

The winner
is Sainsbury's Taste The Difference

18-month-aged Christmas pudding,

with Lidl Deluxe
coming in a close second,

Fortnum & Mason trailing in third

and Lidl's basic Favorina brand
coming in fourth.

Now to reveal the truth.

Our testers are unaware
which is which.

And the mystery,
it's another Lidl.

But we were right insofar as
this is Lidl's deluxe range,

this is Lidl's budget range.
OK.

Good old Sainsbury's.
Yeah, well done, Sainsbury's.

Yes, that is a very special pud.

It's now even-stevens
in the taste tests,

with all three retail brands
winning one so far.

Lidl might be able to tempt
some of us through its doors

with luxury for less this Christmas,

but there's a certain kind of patron
that the yellow and blue brand

have yet to entice.

If you're looking for a gift
fit for a king,

then Fortnum & Mason
is the place to turn to.

From its earliest days, the luxury
brand has had a strong royal link.

And in March 2012,
they were underlined again

as the late Queen, Camilla and Kate

chose the store
for their first joint engagement.

There, you had the Queen,

you had a future Queen
in the Duchess of Cambridge...

Do you like chocolate?
I love chocolate, yes.

..and another future Queen,
Queen Consort,

in the form
of the Duchess of Cornwall.

So it was a very special occasion
for Fortnum's,

and I think a very special occasion
for the Queen

in her Diamond Jubilee year.

To have her seen
walking through your doors

is such a... impressive endorsement,

and one that any retailer
would be delighted to have.

There were three hampers
for the three royal visitors,

who seemed eager to discover
what treats were inside.

They included dog biscuits,
with the Queen's corgis

and Kate's new puppy, Lupo,
clearly in mind.

The visit provided Fortnum's
with priceless PR.

The latest in a long line
of royal opportunities

it's been able to exploit.

Before becoming a shopkeeper,

the store's founder,
William Fortnum,

was a footman to Queen Anne.

In addition to the wages,
he also got access

to the stubs of the beeswax candles,

which are worth
quite a lot of money.

It was one of the perks of the job.

So he was able to sell those
and make extra money that way.

It was this money that
allowed William to go into business

with Hugh Mason in the first place.

FANFARE

Further royal custom came

when William's son entered
the service of Queen Charlotte.

And in 1854, it was Fortnum's
that Queen Victoria turned to

when she wanted to send
a huge quantity of beef tea

to soldiers in the Crimean War.

The store has never shied away

from creating
its own royal opportunities.

In 1935, during George V's
Silver Jubilee celebrations,

London teemed
with international VIPs,

from princes
to bishops to maharajas.

Fortnum & Mason set up
a kind of a special department

to cater for those
visiting dignitaries, as it were,

including lots of foods that are
suitable for a Hindu or Muslim diet.

And I think this is a reflection
of their kind of expertise

in those sorts of foods.

But also, I think, a willingness
to raise their status

and to generate
some additional turnover, I guess.

Fortnum's would also
feed a home-grown

and more controversial Royal.

In June 1937,
the recently-abdicated Edward VIII

was living in exile in France.

The abdication crisis
is caused by Edward VIII's desire

to marry an American divorcee,
Mrs Simpson.

He may have lost the title
of "King",

but Edward still expected
to eat like one,

especially at breakfast time,

when only one ingredient
and supplier would do.

So this is just like the kippers

that Edward would have had
for breakfast every day,

and he wasn't getting them
from any local fishmonger,

Fortnum & Mason
were flying them over

every single day for him to have.

They were Craster kippers
from Northumberland.

Very heavily smoked, very, very
oaky, and he must have loved them

cos every day for breakfast,
that was what he had

when he was living in France,
waiting to marry Wallis.

And there is your breakfast,
fit for a king.

Today, Fortnum's royal connections
remain as strong as ever.

As a former personal chef
to the King,

Carolyn Rob understands
the attraction of Fortnum's

to the Royal household.

When I was working as a royal chef,

it was just incredible
to have Fortnum & Mason

as the sort of the local
round-the-corner place

to go and buy food.

If there was something special
I needed,

I could always rely on the fact
Fortnum & Mason would have it,

something like truffle oil,
or a particular brand of tea,

or a particular type of jelly
I might need to go into a jus

to go with some game, or something
really specialist like that.

And at Christmas time,

the Royal Family enjoyed the premium
products offered by the store.

In the approach to Christmas,
it was always exciting

because when I was working
at Highgrove,

there were always quite a number

of wonderful Fortnum & Mason hampers
that would arrive.

I think some of the favourite items
that would come out of those

were caviar, which was
always a really special treat,

and that's something
that you never purchased as chefs.

That was only ever on the menu
when it was given to them as a gift.

And like many modern shoppers,

the Royals often opt
for home delivery at Christmas time.

Buckingham Palace always
had a direct line to the counters,

so if they wanted to order cheese
and things like that,

they would always come to us.

We would prepare it,

and then it would be sent over
to Buckingham Palace.

And like any shop,
even Fortnum & Mason

sometimes gets
the odd dissatisfied customer.

I remember getting told by my boss

that I needed
to go to Buckingham Palace

to pick up a Stilton cheese,

and I was met by this guy,
who gave me this jar of Stilton,

he took the top off,
and it really was rotten.

It was...
terrible mistake had been made.

He told me this story that
the Queen herself had opened it up,

I don't know
whether that's true or not,

but he really tore me off a strip,

and I'm just, like,
just the messenger.

So, anyway, picked it up,
brought it back to Fortnum & Masons.

But at least I can say,

"Yes, I have been
inside Buckingham Palace...

"to get told off!"

Coming up,
we discover who comes out on top

in the all-important
decider taste test.

And we discover
who does Christmas better.

I wonder if they do
very small bottles

cos I think I liked...

You must not be left on your own
with a bottle of that!

CHERIE LUNGHI: It's Christmas,
a time when many of us

like to indulge
in the finer things in life.

But if the festive budget
is feeling the squeeze this year,

should one consider shopping
at a German discounter like Lidl

rather than a posh retailer
like Fortnum & Mason?

And as Christmas dinner
draws to a close,

it's time for a festive tipple.

At the moment,
it's 1-1 in the taste-test battle

between Fortnum & Mason,
Lidl and Sainsbury's.

So it's all to play for
in our bid to discover

I really like that, too.

Our panel are about to try

that most traditional
of Christmas tipples, Port.

I think it's time
for a little libation.

I agree.
As a reward.

We've earned it.
We have earned it.

First up, number one.

Well, this is very deep and plummy.

Yeah.
Plummy in colour.

It doesn't leave you
with much, though. No.

I find it slightly boozy.
And I know it's a fortified wine.

I know what you mean. But I find
the alcohol slightly out of whack.

Let's see if number two
fares any better.

Oh, I like that one.
It smells really lovely.

It smells good. Ooh, yeah.
Doesn't it just?

This is even nicer.
Walnuts?

This is very nice.
No wonder people get drunk off this!

And it leaves your palate,

there's something working in there
after you've swallowed it.

It's very warming as well, isn't it?

To me, that is superior.
I agree.

That's very nice.
I think it's really lovely.

A resounding success.

But can number three compete?

And then, in a similar part
of the colour palette,

we have number three.

But now the flavour of number two

has made me a bit more biased
towards this amber-y colour.

And it seems all that liquor
may have gone to our host's head.

Ooh! I beg your pardon!
I beg your pardon.

See what you mean
about the alcohol content!

It's quite sharp.
I haven't tested it yet.

It just sort of arrests you
quite quickly.

I think it's got none
of the subtlety of the one before.

It's not as complex
as number two for me,

but it's perfectly palatable.

I couldn't drink this
all night long.

Which is probably a good thing.
I'm gone.

I know, I'm so squiffy, it does
have an impact, doesn't it? Golly!

Perhaps I need a hunk of bread?
Or a lie-down?

Time to find out
which one they will be serving

at their Christmas dinner this year.

I think we do have a clear winner
again here. We are unanimous.

I think we're all in concert
that it's number two,

which is lovely.

Number two is the winner.
Number two was the winner.

Number one was the loser.
And number two was number... two.

And our loser,
number three was number one. No!

No, number one was number three.

Number one is our loser,
number three.

Number one is number three.
Yeah, runner-up, number three.

And number three is number one.

Oh, I'm not sure. I've lost count.

I think whatever Jonathan
has just said is right.

Number two, our winner.

Where do you think it's from?

Surely, it has to be Fortnum's?

You'd hope so, wouldn't you?

Our second place
was our beloved Fortnum's.

Wow.
Was it?

And our frontrunner is,
indeed, Lidl. Wow!

I've never been happier to be wrong.

Wow!
That is wonderful.

Our winning Port is from Lidl
at £11.99,

followed by Fortnum & Mason
at £27.95.

And finally, Sainsbury's, at £12.

I wonder if they do
very small bottles cos I think...

You mustn't be left in your own
with a bottle of that.

Lidl's done it!

Winning two
out of the four taste tests.

So if our panel
is anything to go by,

it seems that it IS possible
to get luxury for less

on some products at the discounter.

And it could be argued
that THEY do Christmas better.

So should the nation's posh shoppers

stick with Fortnum & Mason
this Christmas?

Or should they switch to Lidl?

Fortnum & Mason will absolutely
have their traditional shoppers,

year in, year out,
who resolutely want to commit

to having products
and an experience with that brand.

So maybe this year, you should
buy the hamper from Fortnum's,

and fill it with goodies
from the discounter?

I mean, it's only a social crime
if you get caught, right?

Lidl are always ambitious
when it comes to deluxe products,

and those have been absolutely areas
where Lidl have focused intently

to get the awards, the recognition,
improving the offering.

Whether you treat yourself
to premium products

from a posh store this Christmas,

or go for deluxe on a budget
from a discounter,

the most important thing
this Christmas

is to have a jolly good time.

This has been a tranche of heaven,
and I don't know about you,

but I feel thoroughly,
thoroughly festive.

I'd like to go out on a carol.
Me too. We can sing!

# We wish you a Merry Christmas

# We wish you a Merry Christmas

# We wish you a Merry Christmas

# And a Happy New Year! #

Cheers, everybody. Merry Christmas!