All language subtitles for The New Look s01e10 What a Day This Has Been.eng

[bell tolls]

[breathing shakily]

She's beautiful.

[sniffles] She shouldn't have died alone.

She had you in her heart.

And I have you.

[breathes shakily]

-My love.
-[sighs]

[sniffles]

Yes, you do.

[door closes]

[cries]

[sighs, inhales sharply]

-Where do you think you're going?
-Back to the hotel. It's almost lunch.

-Tell me what happened to Elsa.
-I have no idea.

When I left to meet my lawyers,
she was just fine.

No. She wasn't.

She was heartbroken and distraught,
packing her bags.

You do remember that you said to her
you wanted her to leave, don't you?

You wanted her to leave.

We both did.

What did you do to her?

Nothing, I just told you.

Then where did she get the drugs from?

Well, you're the one
who got her addicted, not me.

I had nothing to do with that.

-It was your job to take care of her…
-[sighs]

-…not to let her die.
-I don't have a fucking job.

I'm on my way to meet
with the Wertheimers.

They're gonna give me every last penny
they owe me, and when they do,

you're not getting a fucking dime.

I'm a better friend than enemy.
You'd be wise to remember that.

I'm not worried.

No? A-And what
about your precious nephew, André?

Does he know your business with the Nazis?

How do you think he will feel
when he finds out everything

you've done for us?

-The mission failed.
-Mm-hmm.

Nothing happened.

Stay away from him, Spatz.
And stay away from me.

You don't get to throw me out
with the trash.

Get me my money unless you want the world
to know you're a Nazi.

You're just like me.

-What was that all about?
-Nothing, André.

-Definitely looked like something.
-You were right. He can't be trusted.

He's in trouble,
and he's trying to hurt me.

If the negotiations with the Wertheimers
go our way, I'll have enough money.

And we won't have to worry about him
or… [inhales sharply] …anything anymore.

Don't worry, I'll always protect you.

-[people speaking indistinctly]
-[seamstress 1] There's so much to do.

[seamstress 2] Uh, silks, fabric.

-[designer] Jacqueline, can you help me?
-[chattering]

This hem needs to be fixed. Merci.

There is much to do,
and we have very little time.

Madame Zehnacker?

[gasps] Zoe.

I'm here about the job.

So good to see you again.
Mathilde will show you your workstation.

[Zoe] Okay. Thank you.

Madame Zehnacker, we don't want to take
from Lelong.

We don't want to upset him unnecessarily.

Zoe's gifted. [stammers] We need her.

Monsieur? May I present you
the refinements you requested.

Pierre, the skirt, it needs more-- more--
more volume. Put an underskirt.

Ah. I should have seen it myself,
Monsieur Dior.

Okay. [clears throat]

-Monsieur?
-Ah.

Your fragrance is progressing.

Oh, uh, I-I thought we agreed
to delay launching the perfume

to focus all your time
on finishing your collection.

It's important to me they launch together.

Magnificent.
It's exactly what I dreamt it would be.

[Balmain] Traitor!

-Who do you think you are?
-Wh-Who is yelling?

[Balmain]
Monsieur? You won't get away with it.

Where is he? Where is our Judas?

Pierre. Pierre,
you cannot just come in here like this.

-So this is who you are now?
-What are you talking about?

How dare you! Balenciaga and I
offered you a couple of our seamstresses.

And we're grateful. They weren't enough.

So you stole 30
from the House of Patou? Thirty.

And now they will never be able
to make their collection.

Monsieur Balmain,
seamstresses change jobs.

-They needed the work, we gave it to them.
-You will put Patou out of business.

We offered them work.

They had work. You showered them
with more money. There's a difference.

[scoffs] Lelong will have something
to say about this.

Lelong knows I'm just trying
to start my business. Did he send you?

No. I came to warn you
to prepare your defense.

Lelong is president
of the Couture Council.

He will decide your punishment.

[seamstresses gasping]

[Coco] Good morning, René.

[René] Mademoiselle.

[Coco] I'm insisting
this be a one-day negotiation.

[René] We understand, mademoiselle.

I don't want to speak with them.
Um, in fact,

I want to conduct our negotiations
from separate rooms.

To what purpose?

Winning.

Make it clear to them that the current 1%
of profits I have

is not even close to good enough.

They do not want
to renegotiate the percentage.

[scoffs]

When they moved the business to the USA,
they violated my contract.

How did I go from ten to 1%?

I'm not gonna put up
with this boys' club any longer.

If they want me to drop the lawsuit,

they're gonna have to make me whole
for what I lost during the war.

And moving forward…

-[bell tolls]
-…I want a completely new agreement.

[inhales sharply, clears throat]
I will let the Wertheimers know.

Cristóbal.

My friend.

Thank you.

-Thank you for offering to meet with me.
-Of course.

You should know that Pierre is here.

I was hoping he would have left by now
so we could speak alone, but…

Oh, Christian.
Since I saw you this morning,

a petition has circulated
with 20 signatures against you.

[chuckles] Jacques, chéri, another bottle.

No. That's enough. [sighs]

And the House of Patou
is officially requesting

that your membership
in the Couture Council be revoked.

Are you serious?

Well, I haven't signed the petition.

Yet.

[grunts]

Help me solve this.

What other options do you have
to finish your collection?

I have n-no options.

I'm doing what is needed
to-to-to make beautiful things.

[chuckles]
And what are the rest of us doing?

Do we offer something other than beauty?

-No, of course not.
-He's not saying that.

Can you hear yourself,
how ridiculous you sound?

So, Christian, you--

You think you're going
to change the world?

That you're the savior?
[scoffs] The messiah?

-That is enough.
-I tell you all, he has sold his soul

-to the King of Cotton.
-Pierre, you go too far.

Stop drinking, will you?

No, I will not. I'm celebrating.

And celebrating what?
You destroying your friendship?

No. Better than that.

Carmel Snow has selected me.

I'm the next designer
to be the face of couture.

There, I've said it.

Is that true?

Has she said that?

In so many words.

What words, exactly?

"You are my choice, Pierre."
Those words. Do they satisfy you?

So, let's have a toast to me.

And I will remind you that I found
her favor without harming my friends.

Christian,
you don't need to listen to this.

[Balmain] Of course you don't.

You know, once I would have
welcomed your congratulations

above all else, but no more.

-I have to go. I-I have obligations.
-Uh, we need to speak.

And what do you have to do
that's more important than toasting me?

Catherine is being honored today.

Christian, we need to speak.

[stammers] I-- I-- Désolé.

Gentlemen,
I have spoken with Mademoiselle Chanel.

This is what it will take.

Has she lost her mind?

We will consider making her whole
for the wartime profits at this rate.

That is it! The rest will never happen!

We will never give in
to these ridiculous demands.

[René] Mademoiselle is also insisting
on a one-day negotiation.

And I'm afraid, Monsieur Wertheimer,

that she will accept nothing less
than what we have offered.

Insanity.

Has she forgotten what she did
during the war?

Pure conjectures. Lies, rumors.

No charges have been filed
against mademoiselle. In fact--

Then why are we here
in Switzerland instead of Paris?

-Because, as I've already explained--
-I think we all know why.

Because she know the truth
of what she did.

If she was in Paris,
she would get what she deserves!

This is business.
We can all be hurt by what she did.

It's a joke! Outrageous.

[captain] The Croix de Guerre is one
of the highest military honors

we can bestow upon a member
of the French forces.

Rarely has it been presented
to civilian combatants.

But today, we find ourselves
in the presence of three French citizens

who showed exceptional bravery
in the face of insurmountable odds.

For those who defended our country

and endured the torments of captivity,

we are forever grateful
for your sacrifice and your humanity.

[Catherine]
Doesn't feel right, celebrating. It feels…

shameful, almost.

It's not shameful. I promise you that.

[sighs]

Please stay in Paris. I miss you.

I can't.

[breathes deeply]
Paris feels haunted to me now.

I made something.

Maybe it will help you a little.
[inhales sharply]

Perfume.

Thank you, Christian.

I know you are trying to help,
but I'm not really sure

why you think designing dresses
and perfume can fix things for me.

Will you be coming to the show?
It's in five days.

I know you want me to be here with you
to share in what you are creating,

but I can't.

I'll go back to Callian.
Finish Papa's garden. [breathes shakily]

It's the only place in the world
I want to be right now.

Ah, one week into my trip,
and the impossible has happened.

Paris is a disappointment.

Well, not the city, of course,
but my quest to anoint a new designer.

Everyone believes that
you've already chosen Pierre Balmain.

Especially Balmain himself, so I'm told.

I all but said it to him.

Well, in fact, I may have said it to him.

I was trying to convince myself.

But then I wake up at three o'clock
in the morning thinking,

"No, no, no. Balmain's just not right."

Mmm, he may be a tyrannical infant,
but he is a genius as well.

And yet there is something missing.

I want your candor, Lucien.
I have no one else.

Balenciaga is tempting,
but there's nothing new there.

Christian Dior has refused
to let me see his collection,

though Zehnacker let me have a glimpse.

Dear, my advice is look elsewhere.

It is not likely Dior
will be part of this season.

[chuckles] How-- How is that possible?

He used a portion
of Boussac's sizable investment

to lure away the top seamstresses
from the other houses.

A complaint was filed.

Now the seamstresses will be forced
to leave him until I decide whether or not

to throw him out of the Chambre Syndicale.

Throw him out? Oh, my God.

I thought you were his greatest champion.

I know.

I think the complaint is petty.
Let me ask you something.

Monsieur Dior hired seamstresses
in order to create.

What would you have done in his place?

-[Christian] Hello, Carol.
-Monsieur.

I'm so sorry, Monsieur Dior.

Uh, uh, oui, so sorry.

[groans] Yeah, yeah.

-[seamstress speaks French]
-[Christian] Oh, dear.

-Sorry, good luck.
-Zoe, what is happening? What is going on?

-We have been forbidden to work for you.
-Forbidden by who?

Forgive me, dear Monsieur Dior.
I'm so sad not to work

-on your wonderful collection.
-No-- Zoe. [sighs, groans]

[groans] Shit.

Uh, hey-- No, you--
you don't have to, uh--

you don't have to go.

-You can go back to--
-Uh… [stammers]

…you can't prevent them
from leaving, Christian.

-What happened?
-It's Balmain and Patou.

[stammers]
They came here. They threatened them.

These women will never work again
for any member

of the Haute Couture Council
if they do not go.

Um, I have to, uh, call Lelong.

No, it will do no good. I called him
and he said he couldn't speak to me

nor to you
until after he announces his decision.

[Zehnacker sighs]

[Christian] Oh, dear. [sighs]

Oh, dear.

Our offer is more than generous.

She has to show some humility.

Some recognition
for the pain she has caused.

[door opens]

[grunts]

Mademoiselle, they have agreed
to make you whole for the war

and adhere to the original contract.

To move your 1% back to the 10%
of profits you had

before all this happened.

I think it's a very good deal.

Come here, young man.

Closer. Uh, come here.

I don't just want a portion
of the profits.

I want a percentage
of the gross income as well.

-Gross?
-Mm-hmm.

Um, that's unheard of. [chuckles]

Now, look, we might be able
to get you a larger percentage

of the net income.
But gross is… [stammers]

It's all or nothing, Julien.

Please deliver my message.

You must be joking.

I think we're done here.

No, no, no. Gentlemen, gentlemen, please.

I know she is asking for a lot.

But we all know the damage the lawsuit
will do to your business is incalculable.

Without the Chanel name, your products,
your brand,

your entire investment
is all but worthless.

-Let me talk to her.
-No, no,

mademoiselle has made it very clear that--

We talk in person or there is no deal.

I'll see what I can do.

[René]
I'm sorry, mademoiselle, but in my opinion

we won't get a resolution today
unless you meet with him.

[Coco] They can wait.

[chattering]

[breathing deeply]

[mumbling]

[Lelong] Such a good son.

[sighs]

Such a good brother.

Running one's own couture house
is an unforgiving and brutal endeavor.

And Christian,

he does not have the fortitude
to make difficult decisions.

[breathes deeply]

You really want to risk it all?

Risk? You have 70%, I now have 1%.

There's nothing left for me to lose.

There is. [sighs]
We still have a business. A partnership.

There is so much more bad that can happen.

I made my offer.
You can accept it or we can go to court.

[sighs]

[breathes deeply]

Look me in the eye… [inhales deeply]
…and tell me you're sorry.

For what?

That you were willing to use the Nazis
to take our business away from us.

Our troubles started before the war.

I used the Aryan laws,
because you left me no choice.

We were being hunted. Exterminated.

[smacks lips] Have you ever thought about…

what a woman has to face
to survive in this world?

Let me tell you something.
I will not apologize for what happened.

I was cornered, just like you.

The difference is I'm used to it.

[exhales sharply]

You men and your wars. Your rules.

Pierre. You have a decision to make.

I've had enough.

-[door opens]
-[Coco] I'll see you in court.

-[sighs]
-[door closes]

Mademoiselle?

They've agreed.
Two percent of the gross profit.

Everything you asked for. You beat them.

-[sighs, chuckles]
-Congratulations.

Soon, you will be one of the richest women
in the world.

Good night, mademoiselle.

You should come see for yourself
what Christian is building.

And you are all welcome to come and see.

I am fairly certain that starting your own
business is a terrible idea, Christian.

[Catherine] He has such goodness,

and at the same time,
he can be very fragile.

Are you bleeding?

No, I-- [sighs]

-I stuck myself like a child.
-[sighs]

A-- A novice.

We are working too fast.
We're making mistakes.

[stammering] It's unforgivable
and stupid of me, and--

No. We're all exhausted.
Go rest. I'll-- I'll keep going.

Monsieur, if I may…

[Christian] It's perfect.

-And have you settled on the name?
-Yes.

Thank you.

Christian, what is the point?

You know she's not coming.

-[André] How did it go?
-[Coco] Went well. Went very well.

-You got your share of the company back?
-Yes, that and more.

This deal means that in time
we can go back to Paris.

-Paris?
-Mm-hmm.

-Thank God. We can help the Baron.
-The Baron?

You haven't heard?

He's going on trial.
I think they'll execute him.

Execute him? Whatever for?

Collaboration.

We must go back and help him.

We can't go there right now.

But you just said the Wertheimers
have agreed to give you your company back

and surely with their support, the world
will know you are in good standing again,

and we can return and support him.

No, no, it, uh-- it's not possible.

He saved my life. We have to do something.

We can testify. Make them understand
the man he really was.

They have let others off.

The Baron made his decisions.
He has to live or die by them.

[Coco sighs]

What are you doing here?

I want my money.

I think it's time for you to go.

André, please step aside.

Your aunt and I have some business
we need to settle.

I told you it's time to go, Monsieur Lang.
Or whatever the fuck your name is.

-[grunts]
-[screams] Spatz!

[grunts]

-Spatz! Stop, Spatz! Stop!
-[grunting]

-[crying] Stop!
-[André groaning]

Ever since I got here, you've been acting
like I'm some sort of plague.

But I have feelings too, you know.
I do. I feel things just like you.

-André? André?
-[grunts, groans]

André, you don't know this,
but I was there.

That night. That night when the Baron
and your auntie came to get you.

I was there.
I was watching the three of you.

Happy family reunited.

-[André grunts, groans]
-Tell him the truth. Tell him the truth.

It's time he knows
who his auntie really is.

Come on, tell him!

Spatz, please let him go!
I-- I'll give you your money.

-What are you talking about?
-Do you wanna tell him? Or should I?

All right, I'll go first.
André, we both worked for the Reich.

Isn't that right, Agent Westminster?

[chuckles] You know,
she even had an agent number.

Do you remember what it was? Was it F7124?

[shouting] Was it F7124?

[straining, choking]

Yes! [inhales sharply] Yes.

[Spatz] Yes, it was.

And she was a good little soldier,
wasn't she?

Yes, she did everything we needed

as long as she got
what she wanted in return.

She needed her oh-so-important
perfume business back.

So what she did is she threw
poor Baron Vaufreland

to the wolves so you all could make
your daring escape.

She even almost made me the scapegoat.

Now, how did your meeting go?

I bet you have plenty of money now.
I just want my share.

You can have it, just let him go!

I'll let him go
once you tell him the truth.

Tell him or he dies right here, right now.

Like he should have those many,
many months ago,

knees in the dirt like a dog.

Go on, tell him. Make us all proud.
Come on. Come on.

-Yes, it's true.
-[Spatz] Come on.

[Coco stammers] It's all true! [cries]

[exhales sharply] See?
Well, that wasn't so hard, wasn't it?

[cries]

Make sure that money is in my account
tomorrow, or I will come back.

And you won't like that.

[Coco sobs]

And André, don't be too hard on your aunt.

After all, it's only business.

[Coco] It's okay.

Are you okay? I'm so sorry.

Let me help you.

How could you? The Nazis,
they tortured us, they slaughtered us--

Please, you must understand that
everything I did was for you.

For our future. [cries]

Our future? And what about the Baron?

I-- [stammers] I used him. [cries]

He had Nazi connections.
He-- He secured your release.

[grunts] Get away from me.

[crying] Don't-- Don't go.

-I can't be anywhere near you.
-Don't go, please.

Please, please don't.
Not you too. I love you. [cries]

Y-You don't love anything.

And you never have. I'm taking Gabrielle.
We're going to Paris. Don't follow us.

Without you, I have nothing.
Please. [sobs]

You have your money.
You have everything you ever wanted.

[sobs] No.

[cries]

André!

I was just admiring your Maison Dior.

It is a bit overwhelming.

I always wanted something like this
for myself but unfortunately,

I wasn't born with the talent
required to merit it.

You broke my heart when you walked away.

But you know that, I suppose.

-Lucien, I-- I love you. I still do. I--
-As a father of sorts to be left behind.

I had one chance. Forty-two years old.

I knew that, um,
hiring seamstresses would…

[stammers] …have consequences, but--

-You did it anyway.
-Have you made a decision?

Is-- Is that why you're here?

I have. And I wanted
to pay you a visit to tell you.

The Nazis were our masters.

Mmm, but we have a new master now. Money.

We need money to live, to work,
to build couture houses.

And what you have done here, Christian,

is nothing less than
a complete reinvention

of our business.
A business with tremendous potential.

Especially if the others follow your path.

Penalizing you would not only jeopardize
your future,

but the future of couture.

That is why I have decided
not to sanction you.

[breathes deeply]

Thank you.

In fact, the seamstresses
need the extra wages.

You can pay them more. So, in the end,
it's better for them as well.

Though you will have to send a few back
to the House of Patou

-so that they can finish their collection.
-Mmm.

And you will pay them as well,

which you can quite obviously afford.

Of course. Hmm.

[Lucien] Listen.

[sighs]

It is best to be mindful what we do

at these pivotal moments
in our lives, Christian.

Success, when it comes,
you will want to be careful.

Of what?

Of Christian Dior.

You have three days. Good luck.

[seamstresses chattering]

[designer] Marie. Where is Marie?
Bring that dress. Come here.

I'm not sure that this belongs there.

Can you turn around, please?

Look, this hem down here,
it can't drag across the floor.

[speaks indistinctly]

This needs to rise two millimeters higher.

Bar.

[chattering continues]

A little crooked.
Just one little bit there.

Like a saint.

Amour.

[speaks indistinctly]

All right. Ladies, there cannot be
any gathering in here. You understand?

Jungle.

Scream.

Songe.

Doris.

Longchamps.

Figaro.

Corolle.

And the glamour, la Fidélité.

[chuckles]

-Yes?
-Mmm.

That's very nice. Very nice, ladies.

Thank you all. Back to work. Back to work.

What Christian did
hiring the seamstresses,

it is unforgivable.

Why did you insist we come, Jacques?

He misses you.

The show is tomorrow,
and I'm asking you to come.

I don't know. [sighs]

Christian has always
meant a lot to me. To us.

Then come. Let's see what he has created.
We should all be with him.

-Go home. Get some rest. [kisses]
-Oh.

Are you sure Jacques is coming by later?

Yes, he'll be here.

I believe in you, Christian.
Whatever happens tomorrow.

[door opens, closes]

[Jacques] Hey.

Are you staying here all night?

I can't sleep anyway so…

[sniffs] What is it?

I'm going through all the motions
and I-- [sighs]

[inhales deeply] Catherine.

[sighs]

You finally have all you dreamed of.
Success is right in front of you.

You will see.
Tomorrow is gonna be a great day.

[grunts]

[sniffs]

[exhales deeply]

So you swear that your testimony is true?

Yes, Monsieur.
It is unfortunately all true.

[prosecutor] Everything you have told us
will hold up in court?

[André] You will find her
at the Beau Rivage Palace Hotel

in Lausanne, Switzerland.

[Pierre] Ladies, quickly. Quickly.

[person] Yes.

[Pierre] Thank you. Thank you.
Oh, no, no, no. Go back--

[people chattering]

-[Pierre speaks French]
-[seamstress] Elena, please take this.

-[Pierre] No, no.
-[seamstress] Not the gloves.

-We need the gloves.
-[Pierre speaks French] Hurry up.

Le chapeau.

[seamstress]
Focus. Focus, everyone. Please.

Monsieur, Madame Zehnacker asked me
to inform you that the doors are now open.

-[designer] …we don't have the hat.
-[seamstress] It is on the rack there.

[Pierre] There you go.

[Pierre] Monsieur Dior,
are you ready for final looks?

Where is he? Has anyone seen him?

Monsieur Dior?

-[sighs] Christian.
-Yeah?

[stammers] What is going on?

Why aren't you with the model?
We-- We have to begin.

Please, I need a moment.

[inhales deeply, exhales sharply]

-[Maurice] I don't understand you.
-[Raymond] Bad luck runs in our family.

Maybe you should see a…

[Maurice] Distract yourself
your whole life with art, drawing.

-Escaping to a fantasy world.
-[Raymond] How many dresses…

[Maurice] Have you learned nothing
from my mistakes?

[bystander]
It's Carmel Snow. It's Carmel Snow.

[bystander 2]
Ah. There she is. [speaks French]

Carmel, so good of you to join us.

Oh.

Welcome, I'll show you to your seat.

This is the-- Sorry.

[chuckles]

[Raymond] Your life is so--

[indistinct whispering]

[Delahaye] …your inspiration.
You must create. Christian.

[Catherine] Christian?

Didn't want you to be alone.

[bystander] No, I've never seen so many…

We're here for Mademoiselle Chanel.

You know, the scent you have created…

took me back to a place before the war.

To a feeling I haven't been able
to feel in such a long time.

It's Mother's garden, isn't it?

I thought it was lost to me.

[Christian] That has been my inspiration.

It's in everything I do.

[Catherine] My darling brother.

It's time to go now.

It's time to show the world
what you've created.

Apologies, mademoiselle.

We've been instructed
to bring you back to France.

You are to testify in the trial
of Baron Vaufreland.

Nonsense. [stammers] Talk to my lawyer.

You will answer for your participation
in the event that led to his capture.

Your nephew, André, testified
to your association with him

and about your involvement
with the Nazi Party.

I have nothing to fear.

Catherine.
[kisses] I'm so happy you are here.

-It's so good to see you.
-Christian was missing you so much.

Pardon me, mademoiselle,
but are you Monsieur Dior's sister?

Yes.

I have heard so much about you
from Lucien Lelong.

I am honored to meet you.
I'm Carmel Snow, Harper's Bazaar.

Please be kind to my brother.

Expectations are high.

He is expressing what's in his heart.

Yes. I've already experienced that
with your perfume.

My perfume?

Madame Zehnacker told me
that he named it in honor

of the most important person in his life.

Miss Dior.

That would be for our mother.

No. No, my dear, it's you.

[announcer] Ladies and gentlemen,
we are about to begin.

[Pierre] Five minutes. Five minutes.

[Bonjean]
With your first collection in 1947…

you helped humanity find beauty

and the desire to live again
after the horrors of World War II.

[Christian] All I ever wanted to do

is design the most beautiful
women's clothing

that ever existed.

Is it true that,
during the German occupation of Paris,

Coco Chanel closed her atelier

and refused to design dresses
for the wives of Nazis?

[Christian]
Mademoiselle Chanel had her own business…

and it was her decision to close.

For those of us who lived
through the chaos of war…

four years of Nazi occupation…

darkest days of our lives.

Know the longing…

for survival.

People need to feel again.

They need to dream again.
They need to live again.

And we can create a new world for them.

[Christian] Are you ready, my dear?

No, Monsieur Dior.

Neither am I.

Go. Go now.

[Christian]
And for me, creation was survival.

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