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Would you like to inspect the original subtitles? These are the user uploaded subtitles that are being translated: 1 00:02:47,880 --> 00:02:53,205 Theodore C. Bestor Social Cultural Anthropologist Harvard University Professor 2 00:03:11,800 --> 00:03:13,962 Besides all the fish 3 00:03:14,080 --> 00:03:18,802 Tsukiji is an information gathering source. 4 00:03:19,120 --> 00:03:25,082 A walk through the market lets you know that the season changed. 5 00:03:25,160 --> 00:03:29,324 Japanese food is very seasonal 6 00:03:29,640 --> 00:03:33,929 and the changing of the seasons is first seen here. 7 00:03:35,880 --> 00:03:39,407 It's not that Tsukiji's the best in the world. 8 00:03:39,760 --> 00:03:44,641 There's nothing in its league. It's the only one. 9 00:03:44,880 --> 00:03:49,886 Nothing in the world compares to it. I bet you! 10 00:03:55,000 --> 00:03:59,562 The Japanese have tremendous respect for seafood. 11 00:03:59,640 --> 00:04:04,680 Tsukiji is based on an appreciation of fresh seafood. 12 00:04:10,520 --> 00:04:12,363 - Where are they migrating to? - Sado. 13 00:04:12,520 --> 00:04:13,885 Already? 14 00:04:14,000 --> 00:04:18,927 I won't recommend these to you. 15 00:04:19,080 --> 00:04:22,801 I stopped selling the milt today. 16 00:04:22,920 --> 00:04:26,970 It's available but the quality's not good. 17 00:04:27,240 --> 00:04:30,801 - You have sardines? - Yes, they're getting better. 18 00:04:31,440 --> 00:04:34,649 But they're still spongy on the back. 19 00:04:35,040 --> 00:04:41,571 Our intermediate wholesalers know fish. No other place has so many experts. 20 00:04:41,840 --> 00:04:44,161 I'm convinced about that. 21 00:04:47,680 --> 00:04:51,844 The intermediate wholesalers are knowledgeable. 22 00:04:51,920 --> 00:04:55,527 They know how to grade fish. 23 00:04:55,640 --> 00:04:59,804 They auction and resell the seafood to the retailers 24 00:04:59,920 --> 00:05:03,845 in a prompt and effective manner. 25 00:05:06,040 --> 00:05:08,771 There are professional fishermen, 26 00:05:08,920 --> 00:05:11,366 the professionals who deliver 27 00:05:11,680 --> 00:05:14,001 and those who evaluate the fish. 28 00:05:14,080 --> 00:05:18,165 And the chefs are at the end of the line. 29 00:05:18,960 --> 00:05:21,327 Wholesalers choose the fish 30 00:05:21,440 --> 00:05:27,322 best suited to the needs of each retailer or restaurant. 31 00:05:27,400 --> 00:05:30,085 So we get to eat good fish. 32 00:05:30,760 --> 00:05:33,331 The wholesalers' choices 33 00:05:33,400 --> 00:05:38,201 are based on knowledge they've accumulated. 34 00:05:42,640 --> 00:05:45,564 They take pride in their work. 35 00:05:45,640 --> 00:05:47,802 Your last fish was great. 36 00:05:48,560 --> 00:05:52,121 I'd do anything to get one for you, if I saw another one like that. 37 00:05:54,520 --> 00:05:57,171 The wholesalers are very proud 38 00:05:57,480 --> 00:06:02,691 to be a part of the market's long tradition. 39 00:06:03,240 --> 00:06:08,565 It's not just about how much they make out of a deal. 40 00:06:08,640 --> 00:06:16,081 The priority for most of them is to provide quality fish. 41 00:06:16,520 --> 00:06:20,809 They aren't focusing on making big profits. 42 00:06:20,920 --> 00:06:25,164 That isn't a source of pride for them. 43 00:06:37,800 --> 00:06:37,846 I usually show up at I AM. A little earlier before the long weekend. 44 00:06:41,840 --> 00:06:43,683 I usually show up at I AM. A little earlier before the long weekend. 45 00:06:50,080 --> 00:06:51,844 Good morning. 46 00:06:51,960 --> 00:06:54,088 You have 700 boxes? 47 00:06:54,800 --> 00:06:57,041 Great. How's the quality? 48 00:07:05,640 --> 00:07:08,564 We get orders a night before. 49 00:07:09,720 --> 00:07:14,965 Now, I am sorting the customers' orders for fish. 50 00:07:15,240 --> 00:07:17,891 “20 grilled eel to L.A.” 51 00:07:17,960 --> 00:07:20,850 I have an order from Los Angeles. 52 00:07:21,360 --> 00:07:26,161 It's 8:30 AM in L.A. I don't call them too early but 53 00:07:26,240 --> 00:07:30,564 they call me up any time of the day. What can I do? 54 00:07:47,000 --> 00:07:50,686 Some wholesalers come earlier, like IO PM-. 55 00:07:50,760 --> 00:07:55,368 It's early but everything depends on how much I get done now. 56 00:07:55,800 --> 00:07:55,891 What we do is simple. It's the same every day. 57 00:07:59,240 --> 00:07:59,286 Daisuke Yamazaki Intermediate Wholesaler 58 00:07:59,320 --> 00:08:01,891 I process fish as soon as I arrive. 59 00:08:02,000 --> 00:08:07,006 So I want the customers to come and get it while it's still fresh. 60 00:08:11,880 --> 00:08:14,247 I always come at 2:30 AM. 61 00:08:14,760 --> 00:08:17,525 We process our orders the night before. 62 00:08:17,840 --> 00:08:25,042 I check the orders and figure out how to deal with them. 63 00:08:25,920 --> 00:08:30,721 There's 300 jack mackerels but the order's for 250-. 64 00:08:30,840 --> 00:08:35,368 - Pack 250 of them and put the rest aside. - I'll remove them. 65 00:08:51,080 --> 00:08:53,845 Looking good. 66 00:08:56,720 --> 00:08:59,087 Every fish has a different value. 67 00:08:59,320 --> 00:09:04,850 The wholesalers evaluate and sort the fish. 68 00:09:04,920 --> 00:09:11,769 We auction the fish and sort it according to the clients' needs. 69 00:09:12,400 --> 00:09:14,721 That's our responsibility. 70 00:09:14,880 --> 00:09:15,244 Intermediate wholesalers liaise for the clients. 71 00:09:18,440 --> 00:09:18,486 Toichiro lida Intermediate Wholesaler 72 00:09:18,520 --> 00:09:22,605 Fishermen risk their lives to catch good fish. 73 00:09:22,920 --> 00:09:26,641 But not everyone appreciates that quality. 74 00:09:26,720 --> 00:09:32,807 So we have to find suitable customers who understand the fishes' value. 75 00:09:33,360 --> 00:09:36,170 This is not a local market. 76 00:09:36,240 --> 00:09:40,245 So all sorts of fish come here from all over Japan. 77 00:09:40,880 --> 00:09:44,805 We are here to pick the right fish for my clients-. 78 00:09:44,920 --> 00:09:45,125 We have a collective approach to our service. 79 00:09:48,320 --> 00:09:48,764 We have a collective approach to our service. 80 00:09:57,760 --> 00:10:00,331 When you walk down the aisles 81 00:10:00,400 --> 00:10:06,407 you see wholesalers standing at their tables. 82 00:10:06,840 --> 00:10:09,969 And the intermediate wholesalers 83 00:10:10,240 --> 00:10:14,484 walk around asking about fish prices. 84 00:10:15,160 --> 00:10:16,969 After a short interaction 85 00:10:17,040 --> 00:10:22,843 the wholesaler puts a sold tag on the fish. 86 00:10:26,920 --> 00:10:29,048 That's good! 87 00:10:30,800 --> 00:10:33,883 Don't you have a box of 30? 88 00:10:36,920 --> 00:10:38,046 Oops... 89 00:10:41,840 --> 00:10:46,323 It's not about being able to tell good fish from bad. 90 00:10:46,480 --> 00:10:54,480 It's about fulfilling the customers' needs. 91 00:10:54,840 --> 00:10:59,368 The quality and prices of fish change daily. 92 00:10:59,480 --> 00:11:05,328 That's where a good wholesaler makes the right choices. 93 00:11:14,560 --> 00:11:18,610 The best seafood in the world 94 00:11:18,680 --> 00:11:18,885 comes to Tsukiji-. 95 00:11:20,680 --> 00:11:20,726 Mamoru Sakai Intermediate Wholesaler 96 00:11:20,760 --> 00:11:20,965 Which allows us to provide fish steadily to our customers. 97 00:11:20,960 --> 00:11:25,522 Which allows us to provide fish steadily to our customers. 98 00:11:59,000 --> 00:12:02,368 Each lot is individually numbered. 99 00:12:02,560 --> 00:12:06,963 We wholesalers can spot a good fish. 100 00:12:11,880 --> 00:12:14,690 It's different every year. 101 00:12:15,040 --> 00:12:19,602 Tsushima fish is good now but next year it could change. 102 00:12:19,880 --> 00:12:23,168 It changes every day. 103 00:12:24,040 --> 00:12:27,089 I only know conger eels. 104 00:12:27,160 --> 00:12:30,209 I wouldn't last a day 105 00:12:30,680 --> 00:12:31,966 “Auction table A" 106 00:12:54,960 --> 00:12:57,327 I check the flavor first. 107 00:12:57,720 --> 00:13:00,530 The color, size, dryness... 108 00:13:02,600 --> 00:13:02,850 I use all my senses to evaluate it. 109 00:13:04,480 --> 00:13:06,608 I use all my senses to evaluate it. 110 00:13:46,160 --> 00:13:49,721 The market deals with 20,000 boxes a day. 111 00:13:50,080 --> 00:13:54,369 Sea urchins come from across Japan and the world. 112 00:13:54,440 --> 00:13:57,808 Up north from Russia and Hokkaido. 113 00:13:58,200 --> 00:14:01,568 Peru and Argentina. A lot from Chile. 114 00:14:01,760 --> 00:14:05,207 From both coasts of America. 115 00:14:07,160 --> 00:14:09,447 “Sea urchins" 116 00:14:12,160 --> 00:14:16,370 Naturally we're totally focused at auctions. 117 00:14:16,480 --> 00:14:20,041 You can't just stand and watch 118 00:14:20,160 --> 00:14:23,528 if you want good products to sell. 119 00:14:37,000 --> 00:14:40,163 You evaluate the products closely. 120 00:14:41,560 --> 00:14:44,643 And you seize the opportunity! 121 00:14:45,440 --> 00:14:50,924 I love this work. I'm 100% committed to Tsukiji. 122 00:14:55,320 --> 00:14:57,129 It's fun. 123 00:14:57,200 --> 00:15:00,170 The first time I bid I was 22. 124 00:15:00,440 --> 00:15:04,490 I still get nervous just before the auction. 125 00:15:04,880 --> 00:15:09,522 When I'm depending on a bid and there's only one 126 00:15:09,600 --> 00:15:12,126 my knees shake. 127 00:15:30,080 --> 00:15:33,368 There's none coming tomorrow. 128 00:15:33,480 --> 00:15:35,482 Really? 129 00:15:37,120 --> 00:15:38,360 I'll buy it. 130 00:15:38,480 --> 00:15:41,484 They have quite a few cases today. 131 00:15:42,480 --> 00:15:44,767 The price will go down. 132 00:15:50,760 --> 00:15:54,924 We're rivals. So we deceive each other. 133 00:15:55,320 --> 00:15:59,370 I'll say something negative about fish I want. 134 00:15:59,600 --> 00:16:03,525 I pretend fish aren't selling when they are. 135 00:16:03,880 --> 00:16:07,646 The others do the same so it all works out. 136 00:16:12,120 --> 00:16:13,451 It's good. 137 00:16:14,800 --> 00:16:16,529 I'll take it. 138 00:16:22,640 --> 00:16:24,529 We all play games. 139 00:16:26,000 --> 00:16:29,846 We trick each other because we're desperate. 140 00:16:47,560 --> 00:16:51,963 Everyone has memo pads with jottings in them. 141 00:16:52,520 --> 00:16:57,811 It's shorthand notes. I know which ones are good. 142 00:16:58,200 --> 00:17:03,684 If you want something, you can't be stingy about 2,000 yen. 143 00:17:04,240 --> 00:17:06,447 It's competitive. 144 00:17:13,680 --> 00:17:16,206 It's like a sumo ring. 145 00:17:16,400 --> 00:17:16,525 All sellers say their product is the best. 146 00:17:19,760 --> 00:17:19,806 Toshiaki lshizuka Intermediate Wholesaler 147 00:17:19,840 --> 00:17:26,849 So you put them in the ring to test it- That's the market-. 148 00:17:28,560 --> 00:17:30,608 I'm nothing but grateful. 149 00:17:30,920 --> 00:17:36,484 Good fish earns more money which is an incentive. 150 00:17:36,560 --> 00:17:38,244 So fishermen try their luck with us. 151 00:17:39,800 --> 00:17:39,891 Hiroyuki Hirai Intermediate Wholesaler 152 00:17:39,880 --> 00:17:45,728 I'm grateful for their faith in us. That's what Tsukiji is about. 153 00:17:46,640 --> 00:17:49,644 I love prawns so I only want to sell them to people I like-. 154 00:17:50,920 --> 00:17:52,649 I love prawns so I only want to sell them to people I like-. 155 00:17:52,640 --> 00:17:52,686 Katsumi Morita Intermediate Wholesaler 156 00:17:52,720 --> 00:17:55,246 They're bigger today and wild. 157 00:17:55,920 --> 00:17:58,241 It's not really a work to me. 158 00:17:58,440 --> 00:18:00,647 I guess I'm a fool. 159 00:18:01,840 --> 00:18:03,842 Forget profit. 160 00:18:05,840 --> 00:18:08,525 - It's not about money? - No. 161 00:18:08,920 --> 00:18:12,447 Akihiro Oyama Intermediate Wholesaler 162 00:18:12,760 --> 00:18:18,051 In good and bad times we interact with one another. 163 00:18:18,280 --> 00:18:24,606 We communicate in person, not over computers or telephones. 164 00:18:25,600 --> 00:18:27,443 Which is good. 165 00:18:47,520 --> 00:18:52,765 Theodore C. Bestor Social Cultural Anthropologist Harvard University Professor 166 00:20:25,040 --> 00:20:30,649 We got some lots from Hachinohe. Go ahead and take a look. 167 00:20:32,400 --> 00:20:34,926 Wow, so firm. 168 00:20:35,320 --> 00:20:37,004 And cheap! 169 00:20:37,320 --> 00:20:41,644 - It's a good deal! - I hear you! 170 00:20:42,040 --> 00:20:43,929 They are good. 171 00:20:45,400 --> 00:20:47,402 40 cases for you, thanks. 172 00:20:47,840 --> 00:20:51,811 They're from Aomori. They're good. 173 00:21:19,000 --> 00:21:22,527 This one goes to Los Angeles! 174 00:22:32,520 --> 00:22:38,527 Nakaoroshi = intermediate wholesalers 175 00:22:46,400 --> 00:22:48,971 I bid on these lots today. 176 00:22:49,520 --> 00:22:53,923 Look how meaty they are. One of a kind. 177 00:22:55,120 --> 00:22:56,884 I'll sell them. 178 00:23:01,840 --> 00:23:06,129 All the good fish comes to Tsukiji-. 179 00:23:06,360 --> 00:23:09,250 For me Tsukiji is a battlefield. 180 00:23:10,200 --> 00:23:13,409 It's a battle between dealers and shoppers. 181 00:23:13,560 --> 00:23:17,690 I have to keep fighting for good fish-. 182 00:23:17,760 --> 00:23:22,641 If you do well, the wholesalers treat you as an equal. 183 00:23:35,760 --> 00:23:37,285 Don't order from the harvesters. See it yourself and then decide. 184 00:23:40,720 --> 00:23:41,528 Don't order from the harvesters. See it yourself and then decide. 185 00:23:42,120 --> 00:23:45,567 René Redzepi noma 186 00:24:15,640 --> 00:24:17,130 - Great. - From Oita. 187 00:24:18,720 --> 00:24:20,131 That's small. 188 00:24:20,600 --> 00:24:22,762 But it's lively. 189 00:24:24,440 --> 00:24:29,401 Tsukiji is great. We'd have no business without it. 190 00:24:36,960 --> 00:24:41,045 I started accompanying him to Tsukiji early on. 191 00:24:41,320 --> 00:24:44,324 I thought all the stalls looked the same. 192 00:24:44,560 --> 00:24:47,928 The market's so huge you can get lost easily. 193 00:24:48,040 --> 00:24:52,250 But he wouldn't wait for his apprentices. 194 00:24:52,440 --> 00:24:57,287 I thought if I got lost I'd never find my way out. 195 00:24:57,440 --> 00:25:01,331 I had to run after him, carrying his bags. 196 00:25:01,400 --> 00:25:06,884 The aisles are like a maze so it's hard to keep up. 197 00:25:12,280 --> 00:25:17,286 In western Japan, chefs are like department stores in a way. 198 00:25:17,680 --> 00:25:20,081 They diversify. 199 00:25:20,280 --> 00:25:26,447 Their style is to employ various techniques to serve variety of dishes-. 200 00:25:26,520 --> 00:25:28,648 Variety is their style. 201 00:25:30,080 --> 00:25:36,804 Whereas Tokyo chefs specialize, like a sushi bar only serves sushi. 202 00:25:38,000 --> 00:25:42,324 A tempura chef improves his tempura over decades. 203 00:25:42,480 --> 00:25:47,327 Tokyo chefs regard themselves more as a craftsman than a cook. 204 00:25:47,440 --> 00:25:52,844 That artisan culture has its roots in Tsukiji. 205 00:25:53,400 --> 00:25:55,687 To excel at their craft 206 00:25:55,800 --> 00:26:00,727 they expect to work with the best ingredients-. 207 00:26:00,960 --> 00:26:06,000 See how it's not slimy? It'll stay that way when it's cooked. 208 00:26:06,120 --> 00:26:10,250 I'm meticulous with my craft- I have to be. 209 00:26:19,440 --> 00:26:24,446 I first visited Tsukiji when I was 30. It's been 40 years. 210 00:26:24,560 --> 00:26:26,847 I enter from here. 211 00:26:28,760 --> 00:26:32,367 We've known the conger eel vendor the longest. 212 00:26:34,320 --> 00:26:36,607 From before the war. 213 00:26:36,760 --> 00:26:41,288 The wholesaler is 3rd generation. And I'm the second. 214 00:26:51,800 --> 00:26:53,404 Can I see? 215 00:26:56,440 --> 00:27:00,286 You chose the same sized eels for me. Thank you. 216 00:27:00,400 --> 00:27:04,041 He picks the best eel out of 30 or 40. 217 00:27:04,160 --> 00:27:08,290 Sometimes he chooses the best out of 5O for me. 218 00:27:08,480 --> 00:27:10,448 Only they can do that. 219 00:27:11,360 --> 00:27:18,130 Every eel has a different face. Like people, there are faces you like. 220 00:27:19,040 --> 00:27:22,442 I pick fatter small faces 221 00:27:22,920 --> 00:27:25,161 Face size isn't everything. 222 00:27:25,760 --> 00:27:32,166 This one's noticeably thicker and its small face is a marker. 223 00:27:32,760 --> 00:27:37,322 I don't weigh them. I can just tell. 224 00:27:38,000 --> 00:27:41,004 “Kizushi" 225 00:27:52,480 --> 00:27:55,484 They take time to choose eels for me 226 00:27:55,560 --> 00:27:59,042 and I complain if I'm not satisfied! 227 00:28:04,200 --> 00:28:08,125 I have about 8 wholesalers I buy from. 228 00:28:09,080 --> 00:28:10,366 I want a smaller one. 229 00:28:11,200 --> 00:28:16,286 Each stall has a specialty. Live fish, shellfish and so on. 230 00:28:16,360 --> 00:28:21,207 I visit certain stalls because I like the vendor. 231 00:28:22,440 --> 00:28:25,046 You can't go to a supermarket. 232 00:28:25,320 --> 00:28:31,362 I seek out the experts who work at Tsukiji. 233 00:28:32,000 --> 00:28:33,968 Always. 234 00:28:36,040 --> 00:28:39,408 Tsukiji's amazing. You know Kaiko Bridge? 235 00:28:40,400 --> 00:28:43,847 You cross it and anything can happen. 236 00:28:44,120 --> 00:28:46,282 A wholesaler once told me 237 00:28:46,960 --> 00:28:53,161 “It's ruthless here- If you're tricked, it's your fault-” 238 00:28:58,000 --> 00:29:02,881 In the old days there were more know-it-all customers. 239 00:29:03,160 --> 00:29:06,289 They went around choosing fish. 240 00:29:06,520 --> 00:29:11,242 They claimed to know a good fish when they saw one. 241 00:29:11,480 --> 00:29:12,527 Bull. 242 00:29:13,040 --> 00:29:18,444 You need wholesalers to choose fish for you at auctions. 243 00:29:19,000 --> 00:29:20,604 It's not easy. 244 00:29:24,280 --> 00:29:29,844 We're lucky today. There were so many abalones to choose from. 245 00:29:29,920 --> 00:29:32,491 I like to choose myself-. 246 00:29:32,840 --> 00:29:36,606 And I need the wholesalers to help me do that. 247 00:29:42,040 --> 00:29:47,763 When I deal with chefs who demand the best 248 00:29:47,960 --> 00:29:52,284 I need to work hard or else they go elsewhere. 249 00:29:52,440 --> 00:29:57,082 With the added push from a client we all improve. 250 00:29:59,240 --> 00:30:06,044 I'm tense every day. I feel sick if bad weather affects the catch. 251 00:30:06,120 --> 00:30:12,162 If I have an order of 50 gizzard shads to fill but there's no fish 252 00:30:12,240 --> 00:30:16,484 I go home sick and come back the next day in a panic. 253 00:30:18,640 --> 00:30:21,371 It's all worth it though. 254 00:30:21,960 --> 00:30:26,488 If I pull it off they'll come back for more. 255 00:30:40,400 --> 00:30:44,530 They deal in fish but it's also about interaction. 256 00:30:47,480 --> 00:30:50,131 You go back for that. 257 00:30:51,000 --> 00:30:52,843 This is wonderful! 258 00:30:54,000 --> 00:30:55,411 I bet. 259 00:30:55,640 --> 00:30:59,964 - That fish was great. - The best so far this year. 260 00:31:00,080 --> 00:31:04,005 I buy fish every day. So a good wholesaler 261 00:31:04,240 --> 00:31:07,642 affects my life tremendously. 262 00:31:08,520 --> 00:31:11,000 I want this every time! 263 00:31:13,520 --> 00:31:18,082 The wholesalers I deal with call me at midnight! 264 00:31:18,760 --> 00:31:22,287 Just when I'm closing up they call 265 00:31:22,440 --> 00:31:26,161 and say they've secured good fish for me. 266 00:31:26,720 --> 00:31:29,724 They've already started at midnight. 267 00:31:31,720 --> 00:31:38,330 I come before II PM and check the orders for the next day. 268 00:31:38,560 --> 00:31:39,083 Takashi Shiobara Intermediate Wholesaler 269 00:31:41,440 --> 00:31:41,929 Takashi Shiobara Intermediate Wholesaler 270 00:31:47,120 --> 00:31:51,205 Mackerel is tricky so I check each one of them well. 271 00:31:52,800 --> 00:31:55,406 To assess the quality. 272 00:31:56,080 --> 00:31:59,323 Is it fatty? How fatty? 273 00:32:00,080 --> 00:32:06,201 Slim ones can be fatty. And thick ones can be unfatty. 274 00:32:07,200 --> 00:32:10,363 The best way to know is by touch-. 275 00:32:10,800 --> 00:32:13,246 Clients have preferences. 276 00:32:13,680 --> 00:32:17,605 The colors of the meat they like or the firmness. 277 00:32:20,440 --> 00:32:25,685 Say you want a good mackerel with tender meat. 278 00:32:25,760 --> 00:32:33,486 If you're lucky you'd get a few out of a box of 20. 279 00:32:33,800 --> 00:32:37,168 What does a good wholesaler do? 280 00:32:37,480 --> 00:32:42,122 He sorts the fish first thing in the morning and hides the good fish. 281 00:32:45,120 --> 00:32:49,409 Half beaks are from lbaraki. I have some mackerels. 282 00:32:49,640 --> 00:32:54,806 Some good line-caught mackerels arrived from Katsuura sea. 283 00:32:55,120 --> 00:32:59,284 They're perfect for sushi. Maybe even too tender. 284 00:33:04,400 --> 00:33:10,282 I may think some fish are really good. 285 00:33:10,440 --> 00:33:14,650 But it's up to the customers to decide what is good for them. 286 00:33:16,160 --> 00:33:22,406 If you resent that, you should just quit. 287 00:33:23,560 --> 00:33:25,289 Give it a try! 288 00:33:29,160 --> 00:33:31,686 Feel them. The skin is tender. 289 00:33:32,320 --> 00:33:35,563 My customers determine my fate. 290 00:33:35,840 --> 00:33:42,564 If they do good business, they'll order more. It's a cycle. 291 00:33:42,840 --> 00:33:48,563 We go up and down together. We're inseparable. 292 00:34:01,280 --> 00:34:03,965 I owe my business to my customers. 293 00:34:04,200 --> 00:34:10,890 It's not my good fish that draws them, it's them who bring me fish. 294 00:34:14,200 --> 00:34:16,248 - Got mackerels? - Sure. 295 00:34:16,400 --> 00:34:18,243 - How many? - As many as you want. 296 00:34:18,360 --> 00:34:21,728 It might snow tomorrow. 297 00:34:22,600 --> 00:34:28,926 Intermediate wholesalers make a lot of effort in bad weather. 298 00:34:29,360 --> 00:34:31,601 Takashi Saito Sushi Saito 299 00:34:33,720 --> 00:34:36,769 I have yellowtails ready for you. 300 00:34:36,880 --> 00:34:41,363 They tell you straight when there's no fish. 301 00:34:42,240 --> 00:34:49,362 But they go to enormous lengths to get fish for me-. 302 00:34:50,440 --> 00:34:53,489 They care. They've saved me many times. 303 00:34:53,640 --> 00:34:55,768 - Flounders. - You saved some? 304 00:35:01,640 --> 00:35:03,927 They look good, huh? 305 00:35:04,280 --> 00:35:08,285 - From Kamogawa. - The color difference won't matter. 306 00:35:08,400 --> 00:35:13,770 They charge us for it but I'm happy they take care of us. 307 00:35:13,960 --> 00:35:17,567 They know their regular customers' needs. 308 00:35:17,640 --> 00:35:20,530 So we keep coming back. 309 00:35:20,960 --> 00:35:24,407 If they get me fish I don't need, I still buy it. 310 00:35:24,600 --> 00:35:29,208 We rely on them and consequently they act on our behalf. 311 00:35:29,400 --> 00:35:35,681 Our relationships are more important than our craft or the fish. 312 00:35:35,800 --> 00:35:37,689 They nurture our craft. 313 00:35:38,320 --> 00:35:43,360 It's part of the tradition of Japanese cuisine. 314 00:35:43,720 --> 00:35:48,931 Trust is what keeps Tsukiji going. 315 00:35:49,000 --> 00:35:50,843 “ Sam)" 316 00:36:00,720 --> 00:36:02,722 This is great. 317 00:36:02,840 --> 00:36:08,324 It responds to the salt. It still has energy-. 318 00:36:09,600 --> 00:36:11,841 The cells are still alive. 319 00:36:12,320 --> 00:36:17,360 Salt removes the excess water and brings out the sweetness. 320 00:36:18,000 --> 00:36:23,006 Like any restaurant owner I don't compromise on quality. 321 00:36:23,720 --> 00:36:29,363 Small compromises lead to bigger ones down the line-. 322 00:36:52,560 --> 00:36:57,407 We serve flounder as the first piece. 323 00:36:57,520 --> 00:36:59,522 To let customer savor the quality of our rice. 324 00:36:59,960 --> 00:37:03,521 I like fish with volume. 325 00:37:03,880 --> 00:37:07,043 The seller cut its spinal cord. 326 00:37:07,760 --> 00:37:11,890 So we can decide when to serve it. 327 00:37:12,400 --> 00:37:17,611 Severing the spinal cord prevents the fish from getting stiff. 328 00:37:17,920 --> 00:37:20,651 It delays rigor mortis. 329 00:37:20,880 --> 00:37:21,130 So the fish stays fresher for longer. 330 00:37:24,800 --> 00:37:25,767 Koji Nakanishi Intermediate Wholesaler 331 00:37:26,520 --> 00:37:32,402 If you don't do it, the fish flaps around before it gets stiff. 332 00:37:33,960 --> 00:37:36,725 It's bad if it bleeds inside. 333 00:37:37,040 --> 00:37:41,921 They cut the spinal cord. 334 00:37:42,080 --> 00:37:45,084 It runs right by the spine. 335 00:37:45,160 --> 00:37:49,006 They crush it to immobilize the fish. 336 00:37:49,240 --> 00:37:49,763 So it won't move around, bleed and get ruined. 337 00:37:53,480 --> 00:37:54,083 So it won't move around, bleed and get ruined. 338 00:37:54,160 --> 00:37:58,688 No cooking technique can save a ruined fish. 339 00:37:59,280 --> 00:38:02,602 In the old days quick transport and freshness added value to fish. 340 00:38:04,360 --> 00:38:05,486 In the old days quick transport and freshness added value to fish. 341 00:38:05,760 --> 00:38:11,403 Now it's all about keeping the fish pristine when harvesting and 342 00:38:11,480 --> 00:38:14,290 using the spinal cord treatment. 343 00:38:14,600 --> 00:38:19,288 The fish we eat is more processed than before. 344 00:38:19,400 --> 00:38:24,122 More people are involved in keeping the fish delicious. 345 00:38:26,280 --> 00:38:30,490 In old days, when people preserved fish 346 00:38:30,560 --> 00:38:33,882 it was being aged at the same time. 347 00:38:33,960 --> 00:38:35,928 But it was not intentional. 348 00:38:36,040 --> 00:38:42,730 People in the know today consciously age the fish. 349 00:38:42,960 --> 00:38:47,045 "Sushi Sh0" 350 00:38:47,360 --> 00:38:52,048 This yellowtail was aged at Tsukiji for a couple of days. 351 00:38:52,480 --> 00:38:55,006 We'll age it further. 352 00:38:55,320 --> 00:38:58,802 It's perfectly good as it is but 353 00:38:58,880 --> 00:39:03,442 we'll age it for one more week. 354 00:39:03,880 --> 00:39:06,167 It'll be like this in a week. 355 00:39:07,960 --> 00:39:09,883 See? 356 00:39:10,800 --> 00:39:14,009 Fresh yellowtail isn't as tasty. 357 00:39:14,120 --> 00:39:20,207 So you age it for sashimi. And you age it longer for sushi. 358 00:39:20,520 --> 00:39:22,761 You make it more acidic. 359 00:39:25,200 --> 00:39:27,885 The surface is brown. 360 00:39:28,040 --> 00:39:32,921 It looks nice inside. I'll work on this cut. 361 00:39:33,800 --> 00:39:38,567 I'll parboil and marinate it before aging it further. 362 00:39:39,920 --> 00:39:47,042 I match the fish's acidity with the intensity of the vinegar in my sushi rice. 363 00:39:47,680 --> 00:39:52,049 The food we serve must leave the customer content. 364 00:39:52,240 --> 00:39:59,089 A chef's pleasure shouldn't be in showing off his crafts. 365 00:39:59,240 --> 00:40:05,964 The pleasure should be in the customer's enjoyment. 366 00:40:06,160 --> 00:40:09,687 That's our purpose. 367 00:40:09,840 --> 00:40:15,847 The baton's passed from the fishermen to the intermediate wholesalers, to us. 368 00:40:44,360 --> 00:40:48,604 When the yellowtail's fatty, it's the season to grill it. 369 00:40:49,120 --> 00:40:51,521 So when is it good for sushi? 370 00:40:51,800 --> 00:40:53,928 It shouldn't be too fatty 371 00:40:54,000 --> 00:40:58,767 and it should be acidic and have a reddish tint. 372 00:41:01,880 --> 00:41:08,729 Japan's distinctive seasons give us seasonal specialities. 373 00:41:08,960 --> 00:41:13,761 There's the seasonal fish and the first catch of the season. 374 00:41:13,960 --> 00:41:18,682 People care about what fish is seasonal. 375 00:41:21,080 --> 00:41:27,042 My mentor once told me to think about a fish's seasonality. 376 00:41:27,480 --> 00:41:33,169 There are IO days in a year when fish tastes its best. 377 00:41:33,360 --> 00:41:37,922 Sometimes the fish's season passes before you know it. 378 00:41:38,000 --> 00:41:43,803 But good vendors know the season and advise the customers. 379 00:41:53,880 --> 00:41:58,169 Look at these shellfish. They're in season now. 380 00:41:58,280 --> 00:42:01,124 Dead shellfish are worthless. 381 00:42:01,200 --> 00:42:07,207 Their quality depends on how long they're kept alive. 382 00:42:17,240 --> 00:42:19,288 “Harumi sushi" 383 00:42:27,720 --> 00:42:32,726 See the white dots? These cockle clams have eggs. 384 00:42:32,840 --> 00:42:36,447 They're at their best when they are bearing eggs. 385 00:42:37,160 --> 00:42:41,245 Some clams aren't at their best then but 386 00:42:41,440 --> 00:42:47,129 when they are bearing eggs They're tender and plump. 387 00:42:52,040 --> 00:42:53,565 “Zezankyo" 388 00:42:53,600 --> 00:42:55,602 It's about seasons. 389 00:42:56,240 --> 00:43:02,009 March is icefish season so we get inquiries about them. 390 00:43:02,080 --> 00:43:06,881 Look at them, they're so tiny. But they're adults. 391 00:43:07,000 --> 00:43:11,722 Their ripe and rich taste will surprise you. 392 00:43:12,120 --> 00:43:16,284 Immature fish don't have such a rich flavor. 393 00:43:19,280 --> 00:43:23,763 Frying in batter both heats a fish directly and steams it. 394 00:43:24,120 --> 00:43:31,004 Frying gets rid of excess moisture and highlights the flavor. 395 00:43:31,440 --> 00:43:33,044 That's frying. 396 00:43:48,640 --> 00:43:54,568 In a bad weather some fish like sweetfish can be tricky to procure. 397 00:43:54,640 --> 00:43:58,929 So I'd consult intermediate wholesalers. 398 00:44:00,560 --> 00:44:04,929 They're mostly good. I have some of the better ones for you. 399 00:44:05,000 --> 00:44:06,001 Thank you! 400 00:44:06,800 --> 00:44:08,484 It's for you. 401 00:44:08,960 --> 00:44:14,205 Sweetfish season starts in June and are caught in rivers. 402 00:44:14,280 --> 00:44:17,170 So I get the wild fish for him. 403 00:44:24,080 --> 00:44:27,209 You let the charcoal settle a bit 404 00:44:27,400 --> 00:44:31,530 in order for the fish to get nicely seared-. 405 00:44:33,560 --> 00:44:37,849 These fish only live one short year. 406 00:44:37,920 --> 00:44:40,810 They look lean but they're vital. 407 00:44:40,880 --> 00:44:46,205 It's like eating the four seasons that they lived. 408 00:44:48,240 --> 00:44:50,846 We have a 20-year relationship. 409 00:44:50,960 --> 00:44:55,124 It's him I go to see not the fish he sells. 410 00:44:55,440 --> 00:44:58,250 Because I can rely on him. 411 00:45:00,800 --> 00:45:03,007 “Pike congers" 412 00:45:08,680 --> 00:45:11,524 Pike congers are common in the west. 413 00:45:11,600 --> 00:45:16,208 Now there are good ones available at Tsukiji. 414 00:45:16,280 --> 00:45:21,127 They're in season now, from summer to autumn-. 415 00:45:26,720 --> 00:45:30,770 I filleted and sliced it super-finely and boiled it. 416 00:45:33,520 --> 00:45:36,285 I mix sieved plums 417 00:45:36,360 --> 00:45:41,366 with dashi stock and soy sauce and place it on top. 418 00:45:41,440 --> 00:45:47,561 Then I add minced shiso leaves, myoga and wasab/I 419 00:45:48,680 --> 00:45:52,366 In summer time, we enjoy fresh and light flavors. 420 00:45:52,440 --> 00:45:57,446 It's boiled hamo. Eat it while it's hot. 421 00:45:58,720 --> 00:46:02,247 “Namiyoke shrine" 422 00:46:06,240 --> 00:46:11,531 Typhoon number I8 is approaching. Secure your containers. 423 00:46:11,600 --> 00:46:17,164 A very large typhoon is forecast to approach. 424 00:46:19,200 --> 00:46:23,046 It's a wonderland for me. 425 00:46:23,120 --> 00:46:27,808 They have things that local supermarkets don't have. 426 00:46:28,440 --> 00:46:32,331 Tsukiji's essential for my work. 427 00:46:38,040 --> 00:46:41,965 Remember the white squid? That was good! 428 00:46:42,120 --> 00:46:44,487 But you boiled it! 429 00:46:44,600 --> 00:46:46,967 It was nice and sweet... 430 00:46:47,120 --> 00:46:49,964 No matter what you do it's good. 431 00:46:51,440 --> 00:46:53,647 I know why you did it but... 432 00:46:54,000 --> 00:46:55,490 I shouldn't have? 433 00:46:57,480 --> 00:47:00,370 At first, some guys looked scary... 434 00:47:00,960 --> 00:47:05,010 But they were helpful when I asked questions. 435 00:47:05,080 --> 00:47:07,924 I get a hands-on education at Tsukiji. 436 00:47:12,800 --> 00:47:14,211 Saury... 437 00:47:14,280 --> 00:47:18,046 I just can't resist it when autumn comes. 438 00:47:25,360 --> 00:47:29,684 Sauries are at their best in late August, early September. 439 00:47:29,760 --> 00:47:34,004 Saury, mackerel, bonito barracuda and butterfish. 440 00:47:34,360 --> 00:47:37,443 They're all autumn fish. 441 00:47:37,520 --> 00:47:39,249 They're local and they taste great in autumn. 442 00:47:41,520 --> 00:47:41,725 Osamu Shimazu Intermediate Wholesaler 443 00:47:41,720 --> 00:47:44,405 “ESqUISSE" 444 00:47:50,760 --> 00:47:55,448 Scallops arrive at ESqUISSE alive. 445 00:47:55,600 --> 00:47:55,964 We put them in kelp stock 446 00:47:59,560 --> 00:47:59,810 We put them in kelp stock 447 00:47:59,960 --> 00:48:04,602 which they absorb when their shells close. 448 00:48:04,880 --> 00:48:09,090 We sous- vide them at 53 degrees 449 00:48:09,280 --> 00:48:11,169 for at least 45 minutes. 450 00:48:18,760 --> 00:48:24,290 In France most chefs buy ingredients through middlemen. 451 00:48:24,400 --> 00:48:27,290 But I want to choose them myself. 452 00:48:29,440 --> 00:48:30,441 Are they bigger this time? 453 00:48:30,600 --> 00:48:32,125 They're the same size. 454 00:48:34,880 --> 00:48:36,450 200 grams. 455 00:48:39,400 --> 00:48:45,646 Most intermediate wholesalers have been to my restaurant. 456 00:48:45,800 --> 00:48:49,486 In order to understand our work. 457 00:48:49,680 --> 00:48:54,208 To understand what we do with fish. 458 00:49:06,200 --> 00:49:12,890 He's the man I trust the most. We have a solid relationship. 459 00:49:14,040 --> 00:49:22,040 When I tell him what dish I have in mind 460 00:49:23,120 --> 00:49:31,120 he'll advise me on what ingredients to use. 461 00:49:31,840 --> 00:49:35,003 No middlemen are as knowledgeable. 462 00:49:39,320 --> 00:49:39,491 The Japanese say “salt and plum" 463 00:49:41,640 --> 00:49:43,130 The Japanese say “salt and plum" 464 00:49:43,280 --> 00:49:48,889 to describe saltiness and tartness. 465 00:49:48,960 --> 00:49:52,009 A magic balance of great food. 466 00:49:52,480 --> 00:49:55,529 So I use orange for tartness. 467 00:49:55,760 --> 00:50:00,687 Green peppercorn and anchovy for saltiness. 468 00:50:09,600 --> 00:50:12,206 Tsukiji motivates me. 469 00:50:12,320 --> 00:50:17,326 It's natural produce so it's unpredictable. 470 00:50:17,440 --> 00:50:22,321 It's fun going there. I talk to the intermediate wholesalers-. 471 00:50:22,440 --> 00:50:27,844 I get to observe other cooks and see what they buy-. 472 00:50:28,160 --> 00:50:30,891 All of that motivates me. 473 00:50:31,200 --> 00:50:35,762 A mysterious bond with the sea. 474 00:50:36,280 --> 00:50:40,729 Every Japanese has it. 475 00:50:55,920 --> 00:50:56,045 We have more variety of fish available in winter. 476 00:50:58,360 --> 00:51:00,203 We have more variety of fish available in winter. 477 00:51:00,680 --> 00:51:03,490 Like anglerfish and grouper. 478 00:51:03,560 --> 00:51:06,689 Red tilefish and butterfish. 479 00:51:06,760 --> 00:51:13,484 Their flesh gets firmer and fattier in the cold. 480 00:51:13,760 --> 00:51:18,243 Fish are fattier in winter. And they're easier to handle. 481 00:51:18,480 --> 00:51:22,280 There's no saving a bad fatty fish. 482 00:51:25,480 --> 00:51:27,767 UMiyQShiu 483 00:51:28,000 --> 00:51:30,480 I buy from a intermediate wholesaler I trust. 484 00:51:32,680 --> 00:51:38,881 Tsukiji is trustworthy especially in terms of food safety. 485 00:51:39,440 --> 00:51:39,611 “Detoxification center" 486 00:51:41,440 --> 00:51:44,887 I get information about new poisonous pufferfish from them. 487 00:51:48,840 --> 00:51:52,765 I ask the owner of the shop 488 00:51:52,960 --> 00:51:57,409 to choose the best fish to buy. 489 00:52:08,560 --> 00:52:16,560 I only buy pufferfish from a licensed vendor at Tsukiji because I trust him. 490 00:52:16,680 --> 00:52:22,562 In the old days chefs bought from Tsukiji, then it was the harvesters. 491 00:52:22,720 --> 00:52:26,964 Now we've gone back to buying pufferfish from Tsukiji. 492 00:52:34,120 --> 00:52:39,126 The drastic climatic change is beyond our understanding. 493 00:52:39,200 --> 00:52:39,405 So we need the intermediate wholesalers' insight. 494 00:52:42,480 --> 00:52:43,163 So we need the intermediate wholesalers' insight. 495 00:52:46,000 --> 00:52:48,606 When fish spawn 496 00:52:48,760 --> 00:52:53,561 they begin storing fat a few months ahead of time. 497 00:52:53,640 --> 00:52:56,007 That's why they become fatty. 498 00:52:56,400 --> 00:53:00,610 - Are there good mackerels? - I handpicked some for you. 499 00:53:00,720 --> 00:53:01,846 Thank you. 500 00:53:02,040 --> 00:53:05,840 They handle so many fish they know everything. 501 00:53:07,000 --> 00:53:10,607 If the fish is bad they tell you. 502 00:53:10,800 --> 00:53:14,282 They know and suggest when is the best for each fish. 503 00:53:14,280 --> 00:53:15,964 “Ginza Kojyu" 504 00:53:18,720 --> 00:53:21,883 The abdomen's glistening with fat. 505 00:53:22,360 --> 00:53:26,001 It'd be good for sashimi or sushi. 506 00:53:30,760 --> 00:53:35,049 Rosy seabass has a gelatinous part under the skin. 507 00:53:35,360 --> 00:53:39,843 It's unique to rosy seabass and makes it delicious. 508 00:53:40,480 --> 00:53:43,450 Winter fish are fatty and delicious. 509 00:53:44,080 --> 00:53:49,769 But in summer we don't crave the same fatty fish. 510 00:53:49,840 --> 00:53:55,643 Fish are different and we enjoy different fish for each season. 511 00:53:56,080 --> 00:53:59,641 Japan's seasonal foods are a pleasure. 512 00:54:29,760 --> 00:54:34,368 We come here at I AM to lay out the fish. 513 00:54:34,640 --> 00:54:39,806 At I I PM we unload and clean the tunas for the auction. 514 00:54:40,960 --> 00:54:42,962 “Oma's tuna" 515 00:54:43,080 --> 00:54:47,085 Frozen tunas and bluefins are in different halls. 516 00:54:50,400 --> 00:54:54,086 Bigeyes also go to a different hall. 517 00:55:08,920 --> 00:55:12,129 We lay out the good ones first. 518 00:55:12,440 --> 00:55:14,966 The best tuna's up front. 519 00:55:15,120 --> 00:55:19,011 But sometimes it isn't so. 520 00:55:19,600 --> 00:55:24,447 Fish we want to push go in a prominent spot. 521 00:55:24,840 --> 00:55:30,847 To grab attention and to get a better price-. 522 00:55:31,480 --> 00:55:35,007 The harvesters leave their products with us. 523 00:55:35,200 --> 00:55:38,841 We see to it that they get a good price. 524 00:55:39,360 --> 00:55:41,328 “T0hto Suisan Co., Ltd." 525 00:55:44,800 --> 00:55:49,886 Can I talk to your boss? The fish has a blemish. 526 00:55:50,120 --> 00:55:54,648 Wholesalers buy tunas from distributers 527 00:55:54,720 --> 00:55:57,246 so they want more money. 528 00:55:57,320 --> 00:56:02,645 The intermediate wholesalers behave more like shoppers. 529 00:56:02,720 --> 00:56:06,805 They want to buy good tuna for less. 530 00:56:07,200 --> 00:56:07,928 “Tuna Department" 531 00:56:09,440 --> 00:56:13,684 What they both want is to expand the seafood consumption. 532 00:56:13,800 --> 00:56:18,044 And they all want to provide good fish to the consumers. 533 00:56:19,560 --> 00:56:21,210 It's pink! 534 00:56:30,840 --> 00:56:31,284 The quality of fish. 535 00:56:32,000 --> 00:56:35,721 The quality of fish. 536 00:56:35,800 --> 00:56:41,967 Shipping conditions and the weather's effect on tomorrow's catch. 537 00:56:42,440 --> 00:56:45,649 Whether I should buy today. 538 00:56:45,920 --> 00:56:50,562 If fish is available for the next few days I won't buy it. 539 00:56:50,680 --> 00:56:55,971 That's what we discuss. They're so informative. 540 00:56:56,120 --> 00:56:59,727 Without information I'd do no business. 541 00:56:59,920 --> 00:57:04,608 Wholesalers need intermediate wholesalers and vice versa. 542 00:57:04,720 --> 00:57:08,725 We have a symbiotic relationship I guess. 543 00:57:11,080 --> 00:57:15,847 I arrive at the auction hall then I walk around to see the fish. 544 00:57:16,200 --> 00:57:19,443 I evaluate at the same time. 545 00:57:19,600 --> 00:57:22,126 I check the flesh. 546 00:57:22,320 --> 00:57:28,726 I check the cross-section of the tail for density, texture and stickiness. 547 00:57:28,920 --> 00:57:34,006 The overall shape, the abdomen's thickness and so on-. 548 00:57:34,560 --> 00:57:41,887 I try to imagine it inside. Pale red is the ideal color. 549 00:57:42,200 --> 00:57:45,886 I try to envision its value. 550 00:57:46,080 --> 00:57:49,527 The thinner the skin, the fattier. 551 00:57:49,880 --> 00:57:52,121 If the fish is this fresh 552 00:57:52,320 --> 00:57:59,010 it'll taste like this in a week. I have the whole story in my head. 553 00:57:59,160 --> 00:57:59,649 It's almost delusional. 554 00:58:02,040 --> 00:58:02,768 Toichiro lida Intermediate Wholesaler 555 00:58:02,760 --> 00:58:08,767 Guys who work at Tsukiji... They live in a fish fantasy. 556 00:58:15,320 --> 00:58:19,689 An auction is alive and hard to gauge. 557 00:58:19,840 --> 00:58:23,925 In an auction the most unexpected thing could happen. 558 00:58:24,800 --> 00:58:26,802 In 3 minutes. 559 00:58:28,040 --> 00:58:32,921 I'm nervous when I go out there and ring the bell. 560 00:58:38,400 --> 00:58:42,086 I surprise myself with the bell. 561 00:58:42,200 --> 00:58:44,806 That gets me in the right mood. 562 01:01:01,200 --> 01:01:07,207 One bid could get you a tuna as expensive as a luxury car. 563 01:01:07,480 --> 01:01:13,203 We bid with our fingers- We call it “spearing.” 564 01:01:13,320 --> 01:01:16,164 If we don't win, our spear was blunt. 565 01:01:20,520 --> 01:01:24,241 It's from Shiogama Port in Miyagi. 566 01:01:24,960 --> 01:01:28,123 It weighs about I00 kilos. 567 01:01:28,480 --> 01:01:30,767 Caught on longline. 568 01:01:30,960 --> 01:01:34,009 OK, I'll push it from this side. 569 01:01:36,640 --> 01:01:41,487 You need a few men. The left side of the abdomen is usually first. 570 01:01:46,200 --> 01:01:47,850 Now the back. 571 01:01:48,120 --> 01:01:51,124 You turn it over and clean it. 572 01:01:51,240 --> 01:01:55,131 Then the right side of the abdomen, then the back. 573 01:01:55,240 --> 01:01:57,561 Now it's quartered. 574 01:01:58,240 --> 01:02:03,883 Hundreds of years ago nobody ate abdomen cuts. 575 01:02:04,000 --> 01:02:09,803 Now fatty cuts like otoro are in demand. 576 01:02:10,160 --> 01:02:14,802 The abdomen's fattier- The red meat's at the back. 577 01:02:14,880 --> 01:02:18,248 Otoro, the fattiest cut's from the abdomen. 578 01:02:18,400 --> 01:02:23,167 There are only 2 cuts with fatty meat. 579 01:02:23,400 --> 01:02:26,051 That's why it's expensive. 580 01:02:29,560 --> 01:02:33,042 This one looks good. But this looks better. 581 01:02:34,280 --> 01:02:35,406 This tastes better. 582 01:02:35,560 --> 01:02:41,169 It's all seasonal. Tunas aren't so fatty in summer. 583 01:02:41,400 --> 01:02:45,041 In spring they're great with a subtler taste. 584 01:02:45,200 --> 01:02:48,329 Tuna from different seas vary in taste. 585 01:02:48,440 --> 01:02:52,923 The size is also going to affect the taste. 586 01:02:59,840 --> 01:03:01,649 “Oma, caught on longline" 587 01:03:01,960 --> 01:03:05,328 How they're caught also changes the taste. 588 01:03:05,440 --> 01:03:08,330 Some fish live in deep waters. 589 01:03:08,440 --> 01:03:13,651 They taste better because of the food they eat. 590 01:03:13,960 --> 01:03:17,089 Stress also affects the taste of the fish. 591 01:03:17,240 --> 01:03:23,486 Fish look good if they don't struggle on the hook but they aren't vital. 592 01:03:23,640 --> 01:03:27,087 I like tuna from local waters. 593 01:03:27,280 --> 01:03:29,248 Taste is everything. 594 01:03:29,360 --> 01:03:33,126 Bad looking tuna can taste good and vice versa. 595 01:03:33,240 --> 01:03:37,370 It's tastier if the color changes quickly. 596 01:03:37,480 --> 01:03:41,371 I don't sell tuna that doesn't meet my standards. 597 01:03:41,560 --> 01:03:46,361 That's the risk I have to take at this job-. 598 01:03:47,160 --> 01:03:51,927 Look at this fish! OK, this is it, guys. 599 01:03:59,680 --> 01:04:01,682 So fatty! 600 01:04:02,120 --> 01:04:05,249 From off the coast of Oma. 601 01:04:06,680 --> 01:04:08,682 From shallow waters. 602 01:04:09,680 --> 01:04:15,164 I check the color, the quality of the meat and fat. 603 01:04:15,520 --> 01:04:17,522 And its tenderness. 604 01:04:18,160 --> 01:04:21,164 I rate that over appearance. And the fat's delicacy. 605 01:04:22,680 --> 01:04:22,851 What do you look for in tuna? 606 01:04:23,040 --> 01:04:27,170 Fatty tuna melts easily. 607 01:04:27,280 --> 01:04:31,410 With a low melting point the fat melts at a touch. 608 01:04:32,040 --> 01:04:39,288 I'm blissful when I cut a tuna like that and imagine the great sushi it'll make. 609 01:04:39,800 --> 01:04:42,804 If it's dark here, it's dark everywhere. 610 01:04:43,040 --> 01:04:49,571 If it's white, the fat layer's thicker. Farmed tuna gets like that. 611 01:04:49,720 --> 01:04:55,443 Farmed fish is white like this. Wild fish isn't so fatty. 612 01:04:58,200 --> 01:05:01,727 The meat feels so juicy! 613 01:05:02,720 --> 01:05:08,329 The back side is richer in flavor and aroma while the abdomen is fattier. 614 01:05:10,200 --> 01:05:13,409 You can tell everything by the red meat. 615 01:05:14,200 --> 01:05:17,090 If it tastes good so does the rest. 616 01:05:26,320 --> 01:05:31,770 I'm trying to get myself roused up but I'm down-. 617 01:05:35,080 --> 01:05:37,481 Not many good tunas today. 618 01:05:38,600 --> 01:05:40,250 This is the last one. 619 01:05:41,560 --> 01:05:43,608 OK? 620 01:05:50,800 --> 01:05:52,609 Upper abdomen cuts? 621 01:05:52,800 --> 01:05:56,486 What? I5 upper abdomen orders? 622 01:05:57,120 --> 01:05:59,248 We don't have I5. 623 01:05:59,480 --> 01:06:01,244 No tuna today. 624 01:06:02,520 --> 01:06:04,249 They're in the sea. 625 01:06:08,720 --> 01:06:11,121 Bring me good tuna! 626 01:06:11,240 --> 01:06:13,049 I'll come back. 627 01:06:13,360 --> 01:06:16,330 Why don't you go catch some tuna? 628 01:06:18,640 --> 01:06:22,531 The thing is, I trade tuna and that defines me. 629 01:06:22,720 --> 01:06:28,284 I tell myself that and I tell my employees that too. 630 01:06:29,480 --> 01:06:32,643 The best place to enjoy the four seasons. 631 01:06:34,160 --> 01:06:38,688 I trade tuna but I can't call myself a businessman. 632 01:06:39,160 --> 01:06:42,687 Domestically caught tuna isn't good business. 633 01:06:43,160 --> 01:06:47,563 You wouldn't trade them if money's your priority. 634 01:06:48,240 --> 01:06:51,130 For me and my customers it's a quest. 635 01:06:51,840 --> 01:06:58,450 Trading tuna means so much more than just trading superior fish. 636 01:07:02,840 --> 01:07:08,688 My quest for the ideal tuna isn't a personal obsession. 637 01:07:08,840 --> 01:07:13,687 It's because my customers want to buy it from me-. 638 01:07:15,880 --> 01:07:19,885 That's why I bid when I'm at the auction hall. 639 01:07:21,320 --> 01:07:22,526 Good tuna! 640 01:07:24,680 --> 01:07:26,205 Come and look! 641 01:07:30,320 --> 01:07:33,210 Some gossip about the tuna's prices. 642 01:07:33,480 --> 01:07:40,648 “That fish was overpriced." I say those things too. 643 01:07:40,720 --> 01:07:45,806 But when I make a bid, I owe it to my customer to win-. 644 01:07:46,280 --> 01:07:50,365 It's not about the price. That's not what it's about. 645 01:08:01,240 --> 01:08:03,925 Those fish are priceless. 646 01:08:04,640 --> 01:08:06,642 Maybe it's hard to understand. 647 01:08:06,760 --> 01:08:12,244 The length we'd go to get just the right fish for the customer. 648 01:08:12,440 --> 01:08:16,923 It's not to do with the price. Nor the grade. 649 01:08:17,240 --> 01:08:22,531 You have to bid for the fish the customer wants. That's all. 650 01:08:22,760 --> 01:08:26,401 It's been tough. There's less tuna this year. 651 01:08:30,720 --> 01:08:33,644 Tuna give me stress so I play golf. 652 01:08:35,600 --> 01:08:37,523 - Does it work? - Yes. 653 01:08:37,800 --> 01:08:42,283 I was advised to forget tuna for a while. 654 01:08:43,280 --> 01:08:47,569 Don't forget tuna. That's your thing. 655 01:08:48,560 --> 01:08:50,961 That's your thing, right? 656 01:08:55,440 --> 01:08:57,807 3 cuts for you today. 657 01:09:11,520 --> 01:09:15,411 Look at the fat! This is supreme. 658 01:09:15,800 --> 01:09:20,203 I'll take that and age it. This one's good but... 659 01:09:23,840 --> 01:09:26,844 I'll take the Wakayama tuna. 660 01:09:33,720 --> 01:09:35,848 The anticipation! 661 01:09:42,320 --> 01:09:46,609 There's something special about tuna. 662 01:09:47,000 --> 01:09:49,367 They're hard to catch. 663 01:09:49,600 --> 01:09:55,721 Fishermen risk their lives to catch them. 664 01:09:56,120 --> 01:10:03,049 We're obliged to honor their heroism with our sushi. 665 01:10:03,160 --> 01:10:07,245 The collar, semi-fatty, fatty and red meat. 666 01:10:07,640 --> 01:10:10,041 Tuna is the king. 667 01:10:23,640 --> 01:10:29,090 Tunas in Japanese waters are tasty because of what they eat. 668 01:10:29,240 --> 01:10:33,689 If tuna eat bad fish, they will taste bad too. 669 01:10:33,880 --> 01:10:35,882 A fertile sea 670 01:10:36,080 --> 01:10:40,927 makes great fatty tunas. Japan's seas are the best. 671 01:10:59,680 --> 01:11:05,084 We manufacture ice for the market. To keep the fish fresh. 672 01:11:05,360 --> 01:11:05,690 The ice is delivered at 3 AM every morning. 673 01:11:09,200 --> 01:11:09,246 Akimitsu Tsunoi Ice Manufacturer 674 01:11:09,280 --> 01:11:12,966 We take shifts to make it 24 hours a day. 675 01:11:41,120 --> 01:11:45,569 We break up or saw the ice to sell. 676 01:11:45,640 --> 01:11:49,087 We also sell blocks of ice. 677 01:11:52,600 --> 01:11:56,730 It's crucial to keep the fish fresh. 678 01:11:57,040 --> 01:12:02,171 By memorizing the customers we save time on interaction. 679 01:12:02,320 --> 01:12:07,611 They bring their own box so we don't need to weigh it-. 680 01:12:08,160 --> 01:12:11,767 We open at 2 AM. 681 01:12:11,880 --> 01:12:15,646 So from 2 AM to 4, maybe 5 is the busiest. 682 01:12:15,880 --> 01:12:18,770 The customers line up. 683 01:12:21,560 --> 01:12:25,884 I have the numbers on Tsukiji's visitors IO years ago-. 684 01:12:26,120 --> 01:12:28,805 It includes all the wholesalers. 685 01:12:29,640 --> 01:12:33,725 People transporting products. 686 01:12:39,680 --> 01:12:43,605 People working in the refrigeration facilities. 687 01:12:47,880 --> 01:12:50,042 Other merchants. 688 01:12:50,160 --> 01:12:54,085 All together 14,000 people worked in Tsukiji. 689 01:12:55,160 --> 01:13:00,803 Plus the 28,000 shoppers who came from outside. 690 01:13:00,880 --> 01:13:05,124 There were 42,000 people in Tsukiji every day. 691 01:13:06,160 --> 01:13:12,167 There were 19,000 vehicles at the market per day. 692 01:13:12,520 --> 01:13:15,046 Including motorcycles. 693 01:13:18,680 --> 01:13:22,969 The design concept of the market was 694 01:13:23,080 --> 01:13:27,244 to have the quarter circular shaped buildings 695 01:13:27,560 --> 01:13:33,090 along the tracks and the loading platforms. 696 01:13:33,720 --> 01:13:38,726 So the products could be shipped in by train and out by trucks 697 01:13:38,920 --> 01:13:42,845 in a seamless operation. 698 01:13:43,600 --> 01:13:49,130 But with highways and the larger freight capacity of trucks 699 01:13:49,360 --> 01:13:53,604 rail transport became obsolete. 700 01:14:10,160 --> 01:14:12,208 Theodore C. Bestor Social Cultural Anthropologist Harvard University Professor 701 01:15:04,920 --> 01:15:07,287 “Ginrin Club" 702 01:15:14,480 --> 01:15:20,203 The library was planned in I961 and opened in I962. 703 01:15:20,520 --> 01:15:23,524 Ginrin Library was built to house books about the fish industry-. 704 01:15:25,960 --> 01:15:26,085 Ky oko FukucN Ginrinbunko Librarian 705 01:15:26,080 --> 01:15:32,361 Public relations for the market are planned here too. 706 01:15:32,640 --> 01:15:37,328 And many academics and researchers visit us here. 707 01:16:20,320 --> 01:16:22,129 How long are you here? 708 01:16:22,240 --> 01:16:25,005 I'll be in Japan for 2 weeks. 709 01:16:25,800 --> 01:16:27,404 I have IO more days. 710 01:16:29,760 --> 01:16:31,000 Hello. 711 01:16:31,760 --> 01:16:34,127 How have you been? 712 01:16:34,440 --> 01:16:35,521 Good, thanks. 713 01:16:49,040 --> 01:16:51,042 It's been a long time. 714 01:16:52,040 --> 01:16:53,769 You look good. 715 01:16:55,600 --> 01:16:59,810 He's like a family member, a nephew. 716 01:18:53,160 --> 01:18:59,281 It was about 400 years ago, in the time of the lst Tokugawa shogun. 717 01:18:59,480 --> 01:19:06,364 He brought fishermen from Osaka to Edo to catch fish for him. 718 01:19:06,520 --> 01:19:11,731 They named their new settlement after their village in Osaka. 719 01:19:12,080 --> 01:19:20,044 Merchants traded fish in the Nihonbashi area with the shogun's permission-. 720 01:19:21,640 --> 01:19:28,524 Nihonbashi was the center of the flourishing culture. 721 01:19:28,600 --> 01:19:32,047 That 8 acres was the best area in the city. 722 01:19:32,200 --> 01:19:36,888 They blocked off the traffic and had a market in the streets. 723 01:19:49,400 --> 01:19:52,643 The new market in Great Tokyo 724 01:21:01,600 --> 01:21:04,251 Produce for 5 million Tokyo citizens 725 01:21:07,120 --> 01:21:09,487 will be provided by the new market. 726 01:21:48,560 --> 01:21:53,361 Tsukiji would introduce a new system of commerce. 727 01:21:53,840 --> 01:21:57,811 They said, "After 300 years of being in this business" 728 01:21:57,880 --> 01:22:04,047 “we'll have a revolution and change commerce." 729 01:22:04,280 --> 01:22:08,808 So they did. Now distributors would just distribute. 730 01:22:08,880 --> 01:22:14,603 Same with wholesalers. It was centralized. 731 01:22:15,120 --> 01:22:19,284 All transactions were systematically revolutionized. 732 01:22:19,760 --> 01:22:22,764 That's what Tsukiji symbolized. 733 01:22:30,840 --> 01:22:34,686 People here use the word nakama. 734 01:22:35,320 --> 01:22:41,327 Nakama means mates. It's not used much outside Tsukiji now. 735 01:22:41,400 --> 01:22:44,609 It makes us feel self conscious. 736 01:22:44,840 --> 01:22:50,722 Some Tsukiji guys have worked here for 60 years. 737 01:22:50,880 --> 01:22:55,010 They've been mates all their lives. 738 01:22:55,080 --> 01:23:00,644 Now they're in their 70s. They're real Tsukiji mates. 739 01:23:02,760 --> 01:23:09,405 They've made the word nakama their own by redefining it. 740 01:23:11,200 --> 01:23:16,411 A nakama purchase. 1.65 kg clams. 741 01:23:18,200 --> 01:23:19,690 270,000 yen. 742 01:23:20,000 --> 01:23:20,284 Watch me rip off our mates. 743 01:23:22,280 --> 01:23:22,405 Teruhiko Ito Intermediate Wholesaler 744 01:23:22,400 --> 01:23:24,607 270,000 is too much! 745 01:23:24,840 --> 01:23:29,084 A nakama purchase is when you buy from other vendors. 746 01:23:30,120 --> 01:23:34,125 When you're out of stock you buy from them. 747 01:23:34,520 --> 01:23:37,330 Do you have boiled scallops? 748 01:23:37,520 --> 01:23:40,444 - I think we're out. - Oh! 749 01:23:41,640 --> 01:23:43,563 How are you doing? 750 01:23:44,760 --> 01:23:47,206 Can I have these boiled scallops? 751 01:23:47,360 --> 01:23:49,010 Any other size? 752 01:23:49,080 --> 01:23:51,890 You want large ones? Here. 753 01:23:52,480 --> 01:23:53,766 I'll have a pack. 754 01:23:54,760 --> 01:23:56,683 A customer wants boiled ones. 755 01:23:58,640 --> 01:23:59,880 I have raw ones. 756 01:24:00,440 --> 01:24:05,446 At Tsukiji our relationships go over generations. 757 01:24:05,600 --> 01:24:10,208 When a son is born he becomes one of us. 758 01:24:11,040 --> 01:24:13,611 We have peers and mentors. 759 01:24:14,400 --> 01:24:17,563 It's like connecting many triangles 760 01:24:18,680 --> 01:24:21,604 It's like connecting many triangles 761 01:24:53,360 --> 01:24:55,203 “New Year reception" 762 01:25:10,760 --> 01:25:16,403 There's a joke about homes with no kitchen knife nowadays. 763 01:25:16,760 --> 01:25:19,923 It's true that not many people can fillet fish. 764 01:25:20,080 --> 01:25:23,323 Some people, like unmarried people prefer to eat out. 765 01:25:25,240 --> 01:25:27,049 Some people, like unmarried people prefer to eat out. 766 01:25:27,280 --> 01:25:33,561 They don't cook. That's how lifestyles have changed. 767 01:25:33,680 --> 01:25:37,287 One of the reasons why we trade less fish. 768 01:25:38,040 --> 01:25:41,044 Things are different to when I first started. 769 01:25:44,000 --> 01:25:44,808 Things are different to when I first started. 770 01:25:45,640 --> 01:25:47,324 Much less fish. 771 01:25:47,760 --> 01:25:52,448 There used to be about 4,000 fishmongers in metro Tokyo-. 772 01:25:52,560 --> 01:25:55,564 Now there's less than 600. 773 01:25:56,760 --> 01:26:01,322 There's much less fish trade now which is a concern. 774 01:26:05,040 --> 01:26:10,001 My father started this shop in I939, before the war. 775 01:26:10,600 --> 01:26:13,046 I've been going to Tsukiji for... 776 01:26:13,680 --> 01:26:18,846 I'm 73 this year so almost 55 years. 777 01:26:19,400 --> 01:26:22,609 You have some fish to sell me? 778 01:26:26,920 --> 01:26:31,369 Some kids think living fish look like fillets. 779 01:26:31,680 --> 01:26:38,723 Nobody eats fish now. They just eat instant noodles or something. 780 01:26:38,880 --> 01:26:41,611 What has become of food culture? 781 01:26:41,880 --> 01:26:46,488 It's good as sashimi, sauteed or marinated with seaweed. 782 01:26:46,720 --> 01:26:53,365 Fishmongers can tell customers the best way to eat fish-. 783 01:26:53,560 --> 01:26:56,882 But nobody takes advantage of that. 784 01:27:08,560 --> 01:27:13,885 The mantle's best as sashimi. Then fry the tentacles and fins. 785 01:27:14,560 --> 01:27:16,085 Want a big one? 786 01:27:18,120 --> 01:27:21,090 Fish is best in the morning, right? 787 01:27:22,600 --> 01:27:23,931 You like fish? 788 01:27:25,040 --> 01:27:26,804 - I like sashimi. - Great. 789 01:27:28,760 --> 01:27:32,401 If you like fish, your kid will too. 790 01:27:32,760 --> 01:27:36,810 See, it's a beak, like a bird. 791 01:27:41,760 --> 01:27:42,807 Thank you. 792 01:27:45,120 --> 01:27:46,007 Eat fish! 793 01:27:46,080 --> 01:27:52,690 Tsukiji is a sacred place for anybody in the fishing trade. 794 01:27:53,040 --> 01:27:57,443 Tsurizao Morita Fishmonger, Izugin 795 01:27:57,600 --> 01:28:02,128 Maybe it's the awesome energy. 796 01:28:02,440 --> 01:28:08,561 The intermediate wholesalers are dedicated pros who choose fish for us. 797 01:28:08,800 --> 01:28:14,125 But it's us fishmongers who deal with consumers. 798 01:28:14,480 --> 01:28:18,121 Our job is to give their message to the consumers. 799 01:28:18,800 --> 01:28:20,962 You want scallops? 800 01:28:22,040 --> 01:28:23,724 Pick one. 801 01:28:28,040 --> 01:28:33,171 You know how to choose? Choose one that looks yummy. 802 01:28:33,520 --> 01:28:36,603 Then it will be. Simple. 803 01:28:39,520 --> 01:28:41,602 Thanks, come again! 804 01:28:41,800 --> 01:28:46,010 We're dealing with something people consume. 805 01:28:46,480 --> 01:28:51,008 In a few days it becomes part of your cells. 806 01:28:51,200 --> 01:28:54,886 It's like a sacred ritual. 807 01:28:55,080 --> 01:28:59,165 It's bigger than me earning a livelihood. 808 01:28:59,520 --> 01:29:03,764 Have this candy. It's chocolate... 809 01:29:03,960 --> 01:29:05,450 No, it's tuna. 810 01:29:05,840 --> 01:29:11,529 Dried squid is good for kids' teeth. 811 01:29:11,800 --> 01:29:16,886 They might not like it at first but they get used to it. 812 01:29:17,680 --> 01:29:21,526 You see... Healthy people eat well. 813 01:29:21,880 --> 01:29:25,646 Eat well and appreciate the food. 814 01:29:31,360 --> 01:29:34,364 A dental university did research. 815 01:29:34,680 --> 01:29:39,641 30% of kids failed to identify all 4 major tastes. 816 01:29:39,720 --> 01:29:40,004 The 4 tastes are sweet, sour, salty and bitter. 817 01:29:40,800 --> 01:29:45,249 Have children's taste buds changed'? Nobuko lwamura Japanese Culinary Historian 818 01:29:46,040 --> 01:29:49,010 Over 30% of the children failed 819 01:29:49,120 --> 01:29:54,809 to identify the 4 tastes in the experiment. 820 01:29:54,920 --> 01:30:00,927 The manufacturing peak's over. Consumers have to be savvy. 821 01:30:01,440 --> 01:30:07,243 In Japan, instant food was introduced in I960. 822 01:30:07,520 --> 01:30:12,481 Saving time on food freed you for other things. 823 01:30:12,560 --> 01:30:17,009 That lifestyle has been promoted since then. 824 01:30:17,240 --> 01:30:22,246 The children of that time have their own kids now. 825 01:30:22,840 --> 01:30:27,209 They spend more time playing than making meals. 826 01:30:27,280 --> 01:30:34,084 That's the lifestyle post-war Japan promoted. 827 01:30:36,440 --> 01:30:39,011 “School lunch ingredients provider" 828 01:30:54,120 --> 01:30:57,602 80% of my clients are from schools. 829 01:30:57,760 --> 01:31:03,449 We mainly supply seafood for public school lunches. 830 01:31:03,760 --> 01:31:10,769 Those fish are 2 days old. Take these ones from yesterday's catch. 831 01:31:11,280 --> 01:31:13,886 These are too large for kids. 832 01:31:14,160 --> 01:31:16,766 They know their fish. 833 01:31:16,880 --> 01:31:24,048 It's a huge relief to rely on their selection. 834 01:31:44,800 --> 01:31:46,165 Yum ! 835 01:31:46,320 --> 01:31:48,163 They're huge! 836 01:31:50,520 --> 01:31:52,363 A whole fish! 837 01:31:55,080 --> 01:31:58,482 They like the taste not the bones. 838 01:31:58,640 --> 01:32:03,885 Many kids have choked on a fish bone. 839 01:32:04,000 --> 01:32:06,685 They're not used to eating fish. 840 01:32:10,960 --> 01:32:12,200 Hello. 841 01:32:13,000 --> 01:32:15,082 Welcome to our school-. 842 01:32:16,800 --> 01:32:21,442 Before lunch we teach the kids where the bones are 843 01:32:21,720 --> 01:32:26,851 and how to use chopsticks to remove meat from the bones. 844 01:32:27,080 --> 01:32:30,243 Imagine where the spine is. 845 01:32:30,320 --> 01:32:32,163 Thank you for the meal. 846 01:32:41,960 --> 01:32:43,724 It's delicious. 847 01:32:44,720 --> 01:32:46,131 Not bad. 848 01:32:46,400 --> 01:32:47,970 It's good. 849 01:32:49,720 --> 01:32:52,724 The 4th graders overcame the challenge! What an experience. 850 01:32:53,920 --> 01:32:55,126 The 4th graders overcame the challenge! What an experience. 851 01:32:55,120 --> 01:32:55,723 Hiroo lkeda Elementary School Principal 852 01:32:55,720 --> 01:32:58,326 Hiroo lkeda Elementary School Principal 853 01:33:02,880 --> 01:33:03,881 Yum. 854 01:33:04,240 --> 01:33:05,890 Delicious. 855 01:33:06,160 --> 01:33:09,004 I've never eaten a fish without help. 856 01:33:10,720 --> 01:33:12,643 It's for education. 857 01:33:12,720 --> 01:33:13,050 So I'm glad to supply quality fish at an affordable price. 858 01:33:16,960 --> 01:33:19,008 So I'm glad to supply quality fish at an affordable price. 859 01:33:19,120 --> 01:33:26,004 It's great that kids can enjoy delicious fish together. 860 01:33:26,240 --> 01:33:29,608 There's only one way to know what's good. 861 01:33:30,440 --> 01:33:33,284 You have to eat a lot. 862 01:33:34,240 --> 01:33:39,531 We have to maintain the quality of fish we provide-. 863 01:33:39,600 --> 01:33:39,964 I'd be happy if people are more interested in fish, like prices and all. 864 01:33:42,920 --> 01:33:44,843 I'd be happy if people are more interested in fish, like prices and all. 865 01:33:44,920 --> 01:33:50,131 We worry about kids growing up on ramen and hamburgers. 866 01:33:50,400 --> 01:33:50,764 Kids won't know what good fish is. 867 01:33:53,840 --> 01:33:54,523 Kids won't know what good fish is. 868 01:33:54,640 --> 01:33:55,004 A baby's first fish puree should be good. 869 01:33:58,800 --> 01:33:59,687 A baby's first fish puree should be good. 870 01:33:59,760 --> 01:34:03,845 He'll remember that taste all his life. 871 01:34:03,920 --> 01:34:08,164 So he'll want more of that taste. 872 01:34:12,280 --> 01:34:14,282 Seasonal fish is great. 873 01:34:14,360 --> 01:34:17,762 If it's delicious, kids will eat it. 874 01:34:21,080 --> 01:34:24,084 School lunches are our chance to impress kids with delicious fish-. 875 01:34:25,760 --> 01:34:28,240 School lunches are our chance to impress kids with delicious fish-. 876 01:34:28,320 --> 01:34:33,326 We just want to give kids more chances to eat good fish. 877 01:34:33,640 --> 01:34:37,087 First we'll reconnect them with fish. 878 01:34:37,800 --> 01:34:41,441 Japan's market distribution system 879 01:34:41,840 --> 01:34:46,641 supports Japan's present seafood culture. 880 01:34:46,720 --> 01:34:49,291 We're more aware of that now. 881 01:34:49,360 --> 01:34:52,489 Anyone in the trade has to raise awareness. 882 01:34:58,400 --> 01:35:00,721 We have to pass it on. 883 01:35:01,080 --> 01:35:04,084 We have to pass on the taste of good food to kids. 884 01:35:05,160 --> 01:35:05,922 We have to pass on the taste of good food to kids. 885 01:35:06,120 --> 01:35:09,647 We also need to pass cooking on to children. 886 01:35:09,800 --> 01:35:15,443 Food history is more fascinating 887 01:35:15,720 --> 01:35:18,963 than any historic novel you can read. 888 01:35:19,160 --> 01:35:21,970 Our origins are in our cuisine. 889 01:35:22,160 --> 01:35:24,606 So it's the responsibility of chefs 890 01:35:24,720 --> 01:35:28,441 to keep the tradition alive. 891 01:35:28,840 --> 01:35:32,128 We have to persevere. 892 01:36:20,440 --> 01:36:26,049 It's the busiest time of the year. The market's filled with people. 893 01:36:26,120 --> 01:36:26,450 There's tension in the air. I feel exhausted and exhilarated. 894 01:36:27,080 --> 01:36:32,007 There's tension in the air. I feel exhausted and exhilarated. 895 01:36:34,680 --> 01:36:41,211 There are lines of people including the general consumers. 896 01:36:41,280 --> 01:36:45,285 You can hardly move. That's Tsukiji at year-end. 897 01:37:00,600 --> 01:37:05,049 In a deluxe box made of Empress wood. 898 01:37:05,200 --> 01:37:09,569 You cook dried herring roe in bonito or kelp stock. 899 01:37:09,680 --> 01:37:13,207 You should try how crunchy they are. 900 01:37:13,920 --> 01:37:18,209 It's a New Year delicacy with a long tradition. 901 01:37:19,000 --> 01:37:25,121 The elderly appreciate it but their numbers are decreasing. 902 01:37:25,600 --> 01:37:31,243 I want to promote it to young people but it's expensive... 903 01:37:31,360 --> 01:37:34,250 It's almost a luxury item. 904 01:37:40,520 --> 01:37:43,251 Good morning, everyone. 905 01:37:44,360 --> 01:37:49,207 It's the only auction in the year for herring roe. 906 01:37:49,440 --> 01:37:54,367 Your bid determines retail prices nation-wide. 907 01:37:54,520 --> 01:37:59,003 So please bid with that in mind. 908 01:38:00,000 --> 01:38:02,128 Let's begin the bidding. 909 01:38:15,040 --> 01:38:18,123 You eat herring roe for good luck. 910 01:38:18,200 --> 01:38:25,129 Traditionally it's prepared in December and eaten at New Year. 911 01:38:28,560 --> 01:38:32,360 They say kelp brings joy and smiles. 912 01:38:32,560 --> 01:38:35,564 Herring roe symbolizes fertility. Everything's for good fortune. 913 01:38:36,760 --> 01:38:38,649 Herring roe symbolizes fertility. Everything's for good fortune. 914 01:38:41,920 --> 01:38:45,891 They're the year-end regulars. 915 01:38:47,560 --> 01:38:51,770 They always go to the same vendors for New Year delicacies. 916 01:38:53,120 --> 01:38:54,610 Come and get some! 917 01:38:57,240 --> 01:38:59,481 Come and get some! 918 01:38:59,680 --> 01:39:02,206 - Come and get some! - Here I've come! 919 01:39:09,280 --> 01:39:11,487 A former sumo wrestler. 920 01:39:24,520 --> 01:39:25,726 Thank you. 921 01:39:25,800 --> 01:39:27,370 Take care of yourself. 922 01:39:29,760 --> 01:39:33,242 I have no stock left. Everything's sold. 923 01:39:33,600 --> 01:39:36,809 Someone even wanted these tables. 924 01:39:37,320 --> 01:39:43,123 My son is a company employee and won't take over here. 925 01:39:43,400 --> 01:39:47,166 So I have to be the one to end the tradition. 926 01:39:47,520 --> 01:39:51,411 I let down my ancestors. 927 01:39:52,880 --> 01:39:55,645 Our business lasted for I30 years. 928 01:39:55,880 --> 01:40:01,171 I'm a 3rd generation owner. We go back longer than Tsukiji Market. 929 01:40:01,920 --> 01:40:08,690 Now I'll just enjoy retirement with my wife. 930 01:40:09,240 --> 01:40:11,322 You'll get up early... 931 01:40:11,520 --> 01:40:18,324 That's what I'm worried about. I'll wake up at 3 AM. 932 01:40:19,240 --> 01:40:25,247 Everyone stops working eventually, no matter what you do. 933 01:40:25,520 --> 01:40:30,447 You're sad when your parents die. And when you quit working. 934 01:40:31,200 --> 01:40:37,685 Also when your wife departs first. When you lose her. 935 01:40:37,880 --> 01:40:41,566 I've had 2 of life's 3 saddest events. 936 01:40:41,720 --> 01:40:45,611 The last one...is my wife. 937 01:40:45,720 --> 01:40:50,487 I'll enjoy a slow life with her for long as I can. 938 01:40:54,200 --> 01:40:55,611 Thank you. 939 01:40:55,800 --> 01:40:59,885 I feel sad to see you go. 940 01:41:01,360 --> 01:41:03,249 You can come back. 941 01:41:46,960 --> 01:41:49,281 This is for all your hard work. 942 01:41:49,440 --> 01:41:53,968 If I bought all these it'd cost me tens of thousands of yen. 943 01:41:54,480 --> 01:41:59,805 I'll add some crab and tuna. That's all I need for New Year. 944 01:42:08,000 --> 01:42:09,604 For a good new year! 945 01:42:19,440 --> 01:42:23,331 You get paid in cash. A year-end tradition. 946 01:42:28,480 --> 01:42:30,721 Everyone, clap your hands! 947 01:42:39,680 --> 01:42:42,570 I hope it'll be a good year. 948 01:42:43,440 --> 01:42:47,001 We'll do our best for good results. 949 01:42:54,600 --> 01:43:01,006 It was a rough ride for tuna this year. The prices have been just crazy! 950 01:43:01,520 --> 01:43:07,482 I'll stay passionate about tuna and stay loyal to my customers-. 951 01:43:15,280 --> 01:43:18,090 This year was a hop before the jump. 952 01:43:18,600 --> 01:43:20,602 We're ready for a jump. 953 01:43:22,040 --> 01:43:23,724 We might fall... 954 01:43:25,760 --> 01:43:28,491 We'll turn things around next year. 955 01:43:32,160 --> 01:43:36,006 I'm too skinny but I'll do my best. 956 01:43:45,520 --> 01:43:51,641 I'll pass on traditions to the young ones. That'll be my new year. 957 01:43:56,640 --> 01:44:01,931 I'm already excited about the first New Year auctions. 958 01:44:02,920 --> 01:44:04,649 Gather round! 959 01:44:05,720 --> 01:44:12,046 Keep in mind whatever we do and say goes into the fish we sell. 960 01:44:12,560 --> 01:44:19,091 We sell fish with love and care. And it reaches the consumers. 961 01:44:19,560 --> 01:44:23,804 We're preserving something important as Japanese. 962 01:44:23,920 --> 01:44:28,448 It's our responsibility as Tsukiji wholesalers. 963 01:44:33,400 --> 01:44:34,925 Well done, guys! 964 01:46:56,600 --> 01:47:00,650 Producers: Make TESHMA Kazuha OKUD A 965 01:47:01,640 --> 01:47:05,645 Producers: Kenichi NAKAYAMA Shinichiro SAKAGUCHI 966 01:48:24,920 --> 01:48:28,925 Music: Takahiro KIDO 967 01:49:56,800 --> 01:50:01,806 Special Thanks: Wholesales Co-operative of Tokyo Fish Market 968 01:50:09,560 --> 01:50:13,201 Screenplay, Edited and Directed by Naotaro ENDO 969 01:50:15,200 --> 01:50:17,202 Shochku 00., Ltd. 970 01:50:19,200 --> 01:50:21,202 Shochku 00., Ltd. 77081

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